New Routes

New Route at the Gallows

As there isn't an entry for this area in the Duck reach guide, here is a recent addition

Fridge Lifting 101 23 4BR Rap Chains at the top

Arete/Pillar on the far RH side of the buttress just right of the 16 crack. Classic arete climbing with a couple of "Fridge Lifting" moves in the middle. At the fourth bolt there is the option of moving right and turning the arete into a layback. Optional wire for the last move over the top

FA Ian Ferrier 13/11/07

From Garry Phillips:
**Walking the Plank Direct finish 18m 22
Climb Walking the Plank, but rather than stepping right into BEB head left past 1 bolt runner and up lay back off width to finish. Take a #4 friend for the top.
Garry Phillips and Jake Bresnehan Sept 07

***Exocet 48m 26
A total classic.
1)17 18m
Climb up No More Mr Nice Guy to the traverse line and then continue up corner to dbb.
2) 26 18m
The pumpy thin crack up the overhanging arete and around the corner passing a bolt (crux) to another dbb.
3) 17 10m
The nice hand and offwidth to the top.
Garry Phillips and Simon Young 07

***Animal Instincts Direct 15m 28
One of the best and all on gear!
When the original route traverses right, head direct up the flaring cracks above.
Garry Phillips and Simon Young 07

Waterworks Quarry
Resurrection 10m 15
Takes a line between DITNO and Jesus, covering the line of another route that fell down.... . Climb to the 3rd bolt of Jesus and trend L past 2 more BR to finish as for DITNO. OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group) 2005

Another couple at Mt Brown from Garry:

hi john here are two new routes at paradiso
In my opinion they are both awesome and are some of the best down there!
ive climbed them all so i know which are the better ones. Snooze and you loose is crazy and hard at the top!
garry

***Snooze and You Loose 28m 27 Þ
Super good. Climb Expendable youth to half height then head left and through the roof and up to chains on Sultan of Sweat.
G Phillips 07

***Number One 25m 26 Þ
Starts as for Total Recall then head left at roof and up to chains on the ledge. Can be done just on bolts or if you like take #1 and #2.5 friends.
G Phillips 07

A big new one from Garry Phillips and Dean Rollins at Mt Brown Main Face:

I've Heard It All Before 225m 23 (or 18A0)
A nice little day out. Located on the over sea wall on Mt Brown. For full value go down when the swell is pumping. It's nuts!
1) 30m 12. From the ledge above the sea follow the easy crack up the slab and the wall above.
2) 15m 10. The face above to the chill out ledge.
3) 15m 17. Traverse left to the next ledge. (fully bolted).
4) 25m 19. The face to the corner and then the triple cracks to the ledge take double #2.5 and #3 friends.
5) 20m 14. The fantastic ramp under the big roofs finishing at The Come Again Belay (fully bolted).
6) 25m 17. From the belay head up ramp then back right to the nice small ledge above the ocean! Dubbed the Milky Way Pitch (fully bolted).
7) 15m 22. A bouldery pitch up the corner to Deano's ledge (fully bolted).
8) 40m 22. From Deano's ledge step left and climb the cool face and cracks to the ledge.
9) 25m 20. Up the crack, then break right to flake line and then back left to finish. A little intimidating! (Fully bolted).
10) 10m 10. Scramble easily out.
Equipped: Garry Phillips with much help from Deano on the lower pitches. FA: Garry Phillips and Dean Roland, November 2007
Suggested gear list: Double Ropes and helmets, 10 short quick draws and 5 long quick draws, set of cams from finger tips to #3.5 friend with doubles around #1.5 friend and 2.5 friend. Screw gates for the belays. Note: The above does not allow for rappelling the route.

Check out the topo on the Mount Brown page.

One from Jake and Al:

The Times They Are A-Changin' 30m 18
Just left of Completion Backwards Principle. Rap in the same as for Completion... Follow perfect size squeeze crack of least resistance up. Big gear. A number 5 camalot comes in handy for the last 10m. But Don't Think Twice, It's All Right, it's 2008 not 1968.
Jake Bresnehan, Alan Williams 15/1/08

A new one at the Tyndalls from Simon Young:

Big City Life 135m 26 (23A0) ***
Quite a unique route that will prove to be a popular classic. Slightly longer and more varied than Raindancer it is a good route to get used to the Tyndalls style. Being well protected and all belays being DBB upon spacious ledges, it is set up for a fun day out. With the Urban Sprawl variants it is possible to do the route all up at Grade 20. The crux pitch is a good introduction to the harder technical face-climbing the Tyndalls has to offer. The Truckstop Ledge is a good a place as any to chill out, it being safe to walk around un-roped.

Access:
As for Raindancer. The route takes the obvious lines on the buttress to the right of the Raindancer slabs. Once above the bolts for Raindancer continue north along the vegetation to a ramp, the rap bolts are north facing. From the initial bolts, rap 20m to a belay on the actual face. Another 30m Rap will put you onto the Truckstop Ledge. From the bush continue with two more 30m abseils to put you at the base of the route. The base is safe enough to walk around unroped on.
Description:
1. 25m 17. Up corner and face easily to belay. Fully bolted
2. 35m 22. From belay head up and right to tackle intimidating rising water carved feature. Belay on comfy ledge. All bolted except for a #2 Camalot before the exit onto slab. Belay on comfy ledge.
3. 30m 18. Step Right off belay ledge and up past a bolt into the corner. Up past medium cams to another bolt, then easily up slab to belay beneath shallow corner. Bolts and natural gear.
4. 30m 26. Up technical corner/face (crux) passing the bulge to the right. Shake out and continue up pleasant slab to belay. Fully bolted.
5. 15m 15. Up easy slab and scramble to belay past 3 bolts.
Equipped: Simon Young
FA: Simon Young and John Fischer, 22 Jan 2008

Urban Sprawl Variants:
2b) 35m 20. Up face past bolts and #3 Camalot to bouldery crux. Continue up right into the corner. Step right when right wall steepens then up to belay. 3 bolts plus cams and wires.
4b) 35m 18. Take obvious crack 10m to the Right of Big City Life crux pitch. Continue up past friendly vegetation till possible to step left into BCL across slab. FA team climbed the crack direct to the top belay but its not reccomended.
FA: John Fischer (2b) and Simon Young (4b)

Suggested Gear:
Single 60m rope is fine. 12 quickdraws plus something for the belays as well as cams from fingers to #2 Camalot. For the variants take a set of wires and a #3 Camalot. A few medium hexes are handy, but not essential.

Nick Hancock has finished his project on the Columns, Mt Wellington:

*** Once in a Lifetime 55m 26 ↓
Nick's better half was doubtful about his ability to send this baby after three years of continual spanking! Rap in from the Daedalus bolts and swing left across face to a small ledge with DBB (60m abseil). Climb the arête left of Daedalus in one monster pitch via 19 bolts. Technical moves with good rests. Nick Hancock, Jan. 2008.

From Nick Hancock.
Flinders Island
Darling Range

**Roman Charity 25 7m
Follow the walking track north from Haulands Gap for 20 minutes until you see a group of beautiful boulders about 50 metres off the track to the right. Climb the left side of the slabby face of the half sphere shaped first boulder, to a belayless summit. Nick Hancock September 2006.

*Cimon 21 6m
The wide scary crack on the fourth boulder. Nick Hancock September 2006.

Sitting Target 20 10 m
About 250 metres south west of Sitting Goose Rock and on the other side of the shallow valley in a split pinnacle. Climb the wide crack on the south side to the ledge then up past a bolt to the summit. Nick Hancock September 2006.

Rocky Cape

*Cape Crusader 23 20m
Scramble north west from the boat ramp at Sisters Beach, for ten minutes, passing some slabby smooth sections, to a squat semi-detached pinnacle about 20 metres high, with a very overhanging northwest face. Climb steeply on great holds and solid rock to a rest beneath a horizontal roof. Swing out madly to a flared jam and up to a DBB on the very lip of the roof. 6 bolts. Nick Hancock & Andrew Geeves November 2006.

Sisters Beach

**Sister Superior 24 20m
Climb the steep wall just right of Roll on Responsibility, on good holds. 4 bolts to DBB.
Nick Hancock & Andrew Geeves November 2006.

West Coast
The Velvet Underground

*Sweet Jane 24 25m
Climbs the pillar with a wide horizontal break at half height, on the left side of the cliff. Technical moves past six glued carrots. Nick Hancock February 2006.

**Heroin 26 25m
1. 10m 26 Climb the very thin seam past two glued carrots to a belay on the right.
2. 15m 17 Follow the corner above trending left onto the arête to finish. Nick & Heather Hancock February 2006.

Sunday Morning Direct 24 30m
Climbs the overhanging groove direct to the slab, instead of traversing in from the left.
Nick Hancock February 2007.

Fortescue Bay
**The Golden Pillar of Fortescue Bay 24 60m
About ten minutes walk north from the Moai is a large orange arête easily visible from the track. Locate a pair of carrot bolts above this and abseil with a fixed rope, or if brave abseil in three pitches, from double bolts, using a single 60 metre rope. You will need eight hangers and a dozen draws, a No 5 Rock and Friends from 0 to 3. You can leave all the cams, except the 0 and 2 on the last belay, as this pitch is all trad. The rock is not as loose as it looks from above, but you will need a helmet.
Could be another pitch below?
1. 25m 24 Move up a slight flake crack on the right, via the 0 Friend, and pull left onto the arête at a fixed hanger. Climb with increasing difficulty via carrots and fixed hangers to a slight runout to the belay.
2. 25m 24 Continue up the arête on slightly worsening rock, where a 5 Rock eases tricky moves up to a short crack. Again there is a slight runout to the belay, but a 2 Friend helps.
3. 10m 19 Climb the groove to a carrot, then step right and go up a solid hand crack to the top. Steve Monks & Steve Findlay February 2003.

Any one have any info on the new bolt line to R of Third Bird first pitchs? Bolts don't look to be glued in yet.

Old Timers Buttress, Launceston Gorge
Up The Wall With Dennis 8m 19
Climb the face,arete to the right of Over The top With Jim.
3FH and DBB
Rob DeCesare Dennis Kearnes March 2008

Old Timers Buttress, Launceston Gorge
"You're Just A tired Old Man Dad" 9m 17
Start with the first move on Mr Natural then move right and up the blunt arete.
1 wire and 2FH DBB
Dennis Kearnes Rob DeCesare March 2008

Organ Pipes, Great Tier

*Shrapnel 23m 23
Follows the prow of a small buttress at the base of the gully just right of Great Tier (below the Arena). Layback the pillar for 5 meters to a ledge, step left then up the face trending right to follow the arête to the top of the buttress. No natural protection required, 9 FH to a DBB
Alan Williams & Campbell Godfrey, March 2008.

New Route on Whitewater Wall???
Well, an exciting 3rd pitch to Slaugterhouse Five.
Vonnegut's Finish, 10m 17 Bill Baxter and Will Van Den Bosch, 17/3/08.
After the main pitch, go up the corner for 3m to an horizontal crack that splits the steep wall on the left. Along this to the edge. Up the edge for a tenuous mantleshelf move to finish.

New climb from Phil Robinson - Bruny Island.
***Quintessence 50m 16
R of Philadelphia Sidewalk. The left of the three thin lines. Nice clean line, position and climb.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, C. Hewer 16/3/08

Hi All,

A couple of new routes on the Baleen for anyone that's interested. The first ascents of the following two routes were headpoints, i.e. They had loose rock, looked hard and didn't seem to have much protection so we top roped them first!

 FYI At this time of year the cliffs looses the sun about 12:00. You'll be climbing in shorts and a T-Shirt when the suns on the cliff and woollies when it disappears so be prepared.

Both these routes are located just to the right of the large pedestal in the center of the Baleen. They start on a ramp 5m up from the base of the wall and are easiest to access from the top. Located at the top in the middle of the cliffs length is a large cairn. To access theses climbs abseil down just to the east of the cairn.

A) ** Humpback 20 59m

Abseiling down 1m east of the cairn will send you straight down the line. If accessing from the base this is the 2^nd line right of the pedestal.

1)     25m 20 Technical climbing up the seam and arête, belay on the ledge just below the horizontal in the centre of the baleen.

2)     34m 20 Continue straight up the fused corner which opens up after about 10m, protection is adequate.

Kim Robinson*, Claire Hewer, March 2008*

B) ** Minke 22 61m*

Abseiling down 5m east of the cairn will send you straight down the line; a 60m abseil will reach the base on rope stretch. If accessing from the base this climbs the 3^rd and 4^th seems right of the pedestal.

1)     30m 22 A bit of everything, delicate bridging, arête climbing and jamming up the improbable twin seems. If you've approached from the base don't be concerned there is plenty of gear. Belay on the ledge which runs across the centre of the baleen.

2)     31m 19 Continue up the twin cracks.

Kim Robinson, Claire Hewer, March 2008

 
 
Cheers,
Kim

Hi Kim, Have added those two. Can you check if they are in the right place, and send a copy of the photo (higher res if you have one) to Jon? Anyone got a really good photo of the Baleen area to go on as well?

New Route on Mt Wellington:
What a Circus 58m 19
Like one of those old time ventures. The big line L of Centre Stage.
Abseil 55-60m to the start of a corner chimney.
(1) 24m 17
Up the corner to a large flake passing it on the R. Continue, passing the Tea tree easily to a bulge split by a wide crack on the R. Climb the crack with some difficulty and continue to the ledge.
(2) 20m 16
Climb the pleasant thin crack on the L and directly over the block at the top to exit on a large ledge. Up the step and follow the clean line on the L to the bushy ledge shared by Centre Stage and Circus Taz.
(3) 14m 19
The inviting wide crack on the L, which becomes offwidth (crux). You've guessed. A no.4 camelot is handy.

Phil Robinson, Kim Robinson (5-04-08)

This is a route to the left of Druid on Mungrl Buttress on Denison Crag.

*Vortigern 145m 19. The first two pitches offer excellent, well protected (wires and cams to #2) and sustained jam-free climbing. It is possible to retreat of a chockstone a few metres up the third pitch (52m to ground). Start about 5m left of highest point of rock step in front of buttress. 1) 30m 19, Up the crack system till it ends, move left and belay at prominent horizontal break. 2) 25m 19, Up corner, move left up diagonal crack, and up to base of left leaning bottomless corner. Up this to belay on ledge to its left. 3) 35m 17, Up mossy corner and its right wall to bushy ledge. Up layback flake in wall above to ledge belay. 4) 25m 16M0 Up vegetated wide crack for 5 metres to rooflet on left. Traverse left under rooflet to corner. Up to ledge near left arete of tower. Traverse left around arête to dirty crack to summit. Would be wise to break this pitch to avoid near terminal rope drag up final crack (rest on gear taken on 1st ascent). 5) 30m 14, rap 5m from sling, walk across to easy angled corner, up face on left of corner to mainland. O Gervasoni, T Kohl 10/2/2008

A new trad route at RIVERBEND? Is this possible?
On POWDERFINGER BUTTRESS between Ramrod and No Nukes
SLOWHAND 15m 19
Start in the chossy gully, 6m L of Powderfinger. Ease up past the large flake (at the time of this ascent it felt well stuck on) heading R for the small L facing corner. Straight up above this to the top.
Bill Baxter and John Gale 25/4/2008.

It's just possible No Nukes 24, goes up the last bit, its description reads "The blank wall...left of Powderfinger"
Gerry's decription admits to it being a chop route! Has it ever had a second ascent? Anyway Slowhand will get the average mid-grade climber into some good new territory. That's if Dave James hasn't been there already.

A new route on Bruny.
The Bruny Stack
The Stack, rearing out of the sea and topped by a coronet of blocks, is a spectacular finger of rock, about 45m high and apparently precariously balanced. Access is difficult and only possible when there is little or no swell. From the Adventure Bay launch ramp, set a course north round Penguin Island and Green Point and then south heading towards Cape Connella. The Stack is located about 6 km down the coast and a landing can be made at the base on any side, depending on the prevailing swell. However, there is little shelter and no mooring. Obviously, given this remote location, and the notoriously changeable weather, climbers should be prepared for a prolonged stay in case they are marooned , and should consider taking radios/emergency beacons. There is also a smaller, land-based pillar close by, the Fickle Finger.

Veni Vidi Vici 32m 16
A climb that was a long time in the making, over four years from when it was first mooted! The wave- cut platform that forms the base is littered with fallen blocks which attest to both the ferocious force of the wind and storm waves and to the quality of some of the rock. A helmet is strongly recommended.
Start in the centre of the north face, taking the middle line with a small roof at mid-height. Climb the short wall and then follow the crack to the loose roof. Move R to a wider crack, which is climbed for a metre or so until moves can be made L over the roof and back into the crack. Continue up to the "cave" high on the R arête, step L and climb the main face to finish between the blocks of the coronet. The large block to the R seems most stable for an abseil descent. Phil Robinson and Tony McKenny, Glen Kowalik (Skipper) and Jane Monaghan (First Mate). May 2008.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/danielharrison/129306612/in/photostream/

This is The Monument , as it is offically known, at C Hoy ... apparently th lads had an epic getting from their boat to the ledge ...

http://www.brunycharters.com.au/map.php

You can clearly see it, by zooming-in,not far up the coast from Cape Conella , which is just north of the visible boat-wake .

Another new route from Bill in Island Zawn.
Iona 17 25m
Two metres right of Loose Possums is another crack. Up this, then at one third's height take the thin right trending crack to the top.
B Baxter and H Smith May/2008

The latest addition to the Organ Pipes from Phil and Kim.

• • High Wire 55m 19
    Clean and varied climbing on the S buttress which has a huge diedre in the upper half.
    Start at a hand crack in the lower face.
    (1) 42m Climb the crack which splits the aesthetic clean wall to a challenging exit onto the ledge. Exciting moves up the nose (crux) to the base of the diedre. Pleasant and straightforward climbing follows. Move onto the L face a few metres below the top and belay on the platform.
    (2) 13m Traverse L and up easily to finish.
    Phil Robinson, Kim Robinson, 24 May 2008.

Two new routes from Garry.
Mt Brown Main Face, between "I've heard it all before" and 'Time Goes Bye"

• • • Talk is Cheap 200m 24
      G. Phillips and S. Young, Oct.2008.
      (will post a topo when we get it scanned in - sensational climbing says Garry)

Star Factory

• • • Back Yard Surgery 20m 29
      The line 4m L of Astro Boy. V7 start, then awesome climbing. Sept. 2008.

Full details from Garry and Simon on the latest big one at Mt Brown.
****Talk is Cheap 210m 24 (or 22A0)

Another crazy route on the big wall of Mt Brown. This is the best and most sustained of the trio!
This route requires mandatory free moves of grade 22 in order to get out!

Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051).
1) 10m 14. From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall.
2) 35m 24. One crazy pitch! steep and sustained over the 3 over laps.
3) 25m 22. Traverse left past and up into the corner. Up this, then back right through and around roof!
4) 15m 16. Up slabs above to the chill out ledge.
5) 20m 20. Plug in a few cams (#2 #1 camolot) then blast up the wall to another stance.
6) 30m 24. Head up and right through the steep juggy wall above. Passing the pocket of love at the top!
7) 25m 22! Move right around the arête, up to #2 camolot crack and then up the line above. Have fun!!
8) 20m 19. Continue up the corner above requires #1 #.75 camolots at the top.
9) 25m 17. Step right into the corner and then traverse diagonally right to the big ledge ( .5 camolot if you want).
10) 10m 8 Scramble easily out as for IHIAB.
Equipped: Garry Phillips and Simon Young

FA: Garry Phillips and Simon Young October 2008
Suggested gear list: Double Ropes, 10 short quick draws and 5 long quick draws.

Camolots: 1 of each #.5 #.75 #1 #2
Note: The above list does not allow for rappelling the route.

New routes on the Ben from Jake's blog:

Knockin' on Heaven's Door 170m 19
The Steck-Salathé of Tasmania, aka "The Bresnehan-Rollins". This cute little excursion heads straight up the guts of the Laendler Face, linking a series of prominent features. Take some big cams and put on your shuffling shoes. Start 30m R of Laendler at a prominent NW-facing crack splitting the front of a column.
1) 30m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge. Up wide crack above with chockstones to ledge on L (with big leaning block).
1a) 8m 16. Downclimb L to ledge below tower. Use fixed wire to protect the second.
2) 32m 17. Chimney, wriggle and squeeze up behind the detached pillar and then bag its summit. Pull onto wall on R (huh?) and up to belay ledge.
3) 22m 16. Up the obvious gash above, which is visible from the moon. Belay off to the L on bushy ledge below wide crack.
4) 28m 19. Up handcrack to bottomless offwidth. Hop into this then cruise on up to share the same penultimate belay as Laendler/RADJ.
5) 25m 18. As for Rock-A-Day Johnny. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.
6) 25m. Scramble to the top.
Descend is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from the top of the route) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.
Dean Rollins, Jake Bresnehan (alt.), 18-11-2008.

And here is one on the Moustache Tower (just R of Frew's Flutes)

Ancient Empty Street 70m 19
A companion line to Haggis. Another proud line up this modest tower. Start in the cave chimney at the front of the tower.
1) 30m 16. Chimney up until possible to pull onto main wall. Move R past spike and up to belay below R of two cracks.
2) 20m 18. A tricky start guards the textbook hand crack.
3) 20m 19. As for Haggis. Good climbing up the deceptive R-leaning crack to the top.
Descend off to the R: squeeze through gap to mossy ledge. Abseil from ledge to big spike slightly uphill (30m), then from spike to gully floor (25m).
Jake Bresnehan, Dean Rollins (alt.), 19-11-2008.

also just added some new routes at Standup Point that Dave James and i did earlier this year.
(at the bottom of the Mount Brown page)

they are not going to rock the foundations of world climbing, but they were pretty fun.
its a pretty nice winter spot with many (short) routes in the 14-16 range, with couple of easier ones and now a couple of harder ones.

they've got nothing on the routes posted just above though

Added a new route (80m grade 10) sent in by Dave Gray to a new page for Tullah

More of a correction than a new route.

I noticed that the description for "Alex's Thing" at Flange Butress on the Pipes says to start on the RHS of the ledge and follow the bolted Arete, the bolted arete from the RHS of this ledge is where "Chopsticks the Sequal" goes. From memory "Alex's Thing" starts on the left hand face of the Arete for a few moves then trends left following a line of fixed hangers to the "Fiddle Sticks" ledge.

This should avoid future confusion.

Hi All,

Over the last 9 months or so Deano and I have spent a bit of time at the tote and finally freed the original aid route! The climbing is brilliant - really interesting and safer than it appears (we tested most of the possible falls). All the old aid bolts have been replaced with lovely 12mm stainless expansion bolts so go and get involved - it would be great to see a Tasmanian 2nd ascent!!

The Ewbank Route (free version aka 'The Freed Route') 65m 27

All but ignored following the ascent of The Free Route, the original aid route to the top of the Totem Pole was not as impossible to free as many had suspected. It now provides quality free climbing of a more committing nature than The Free Route.

Gear required: plenty of quickdraws, cams to #1 Camalot, with doubles from #0.5 Camalot down, 1 set of wires, 1 set of RPs. Double ropes recommended.

1) 20m 25. Start as for The Free Route and follow it to the SW (i.e. right) arête. Instead of continuing R, climb the arête, face and hollow flake to the triangular alcove.
2) 15m 26. From the alcove, climb up to the roof. Step L around the arête via spike to a thin flake (good medium wires). Climb the face and arête, trending R at the horizontal to the semi-hanging DBB. Consider belaying the next pitch from below the DBB to avoid a potential factor 2 fall.
3) 25m 27. Up the L arête and crack/seam, past a bolt, to a stance. Continue up crack past rattling spikes to the upper alcove. Up thin crack, then R and up to finish at ledge (DBB).
4) 5m 17. Climb the prominent crack in the summit block. A tricky start gives way to cruisy crack climbing (this 'pitch' was freed on the first ascent).

John Ewbank, Allan Keller, March 1968. FFA: Doug McConnell, Dean Rollins, January 2009.

Two new routes at Pavement Bluff on Ben Lomond
The Grand Hoax 65m 19
1) 57m 19. Up face and corner to a ledge, then up hand, fist, o/w crack. The horizontal breaks take smaller gear. No.5 camalot useful at the top.
2) 8m. Jam to top.
Andrew Geeves, Ben Veltkamp, 25-01-09.

The Golden Path 45m 22**
Abseil to the ledge 5m above the gully. Superb face climbing with an occasional jam. Cruxy for the first 8m.
Ben Veltkamp, Andrew Geeves, Richard Halsey, 26-01-09.

here are some more routes at Ben Lomond from last month, up at the northern end.
some short ones, but also some pretty good ones too.

i've added these to and have also updated the online guide with more detailed access info and tidied up some old route descriptions as well.

until next time....

----

BULLFIGHTER BUTTRESS

When standing directly in front of Bullfighter Buttress, a short wall is visible down and just right of the main cliff. There are some short lines here. (Note: I'm pretty sure this is where Picador is, the only thing not matching the description is the length, but I can't find any other lines in the area that fit...)

Walk Like An Egyptian  23  10m
A thin and technical boulder problem start leads to a hand crack at the top (past some greenery). Nic Perndt, Dec 2008.

Picador  18  10m
The short but appealing crack down and just R of the main Bullfighter Buttress cliff. John Smart, Shane Carson, Mar 1979.

ISIS BUTTRESS

Added the older routes to the guide for clarity, and also because they are both pretty good!

OSIRIS BUTTRESS

This is the next chuck of rock uphill from Isis Buttress and on the same side of the descent gully (opposite Bullfighter Buttress). Approach by traversing in from high up in the descent gully. Descend by an easy walk off the back.

Left Foot, Right Foot  20  18m
Up slab made by fallen pillar then take short hand crack on R to reach sloping ledge. Climb the crack splitting the face past a section that is not the most friendly of sizes. Dean Rollins, Nic Perndt, Jan 2009.

Matter of Time  17  18m
As for LFRF to the sloping ledge, then take the dark crack in the corner. Nic Perndt, Dean Rollins, Jan 2009.

DESCENT GULLY AREA

The following route is along the track heading back to Robin's Buttress. It is a prominent dihedral about 50m along from where the track branches off the main scree gully.

Turbulence  23  25m
Start up the short hand crack on the L, then move R into the line along rail and climb the thin open-book corner. To descend, traverse R around block (stay roped up) and then downclimb easy gully. Dean Rollins, Nic Perndt, Jan 2009.

Further along this descent track to Robin's Buttress, a short and rather unremarkable cliff band is visible on the R just before the saddle.

Arse Floss  16  10m
The clean crack towards the L end of the wall. Thin at the start, then widens towards the top. Been done before? If not then: Tim Stubley, Dean Rollins, Dec 2008.

Down the final gully to the base of Robin's Buttress, the descent passes a mossy black wall on the right with a few brushed lines. This is shady side of the Descent Gully Pinnacle. There are also some short routes on the Heathcliff facing (west) side of the pinnacle. They are on the left when looking up at Robin's Buttress from the scree, the first route being at the far L of the lower wall.

(pronounce this one with old-man-style whissstling...)

Super Snappy's Homemade Salsa  24/25  10m
Short but surprisingly sustained stemming. Sufficient stonker stopper placements with some supplementary SLCDs constitute protection, placed from solid stances. Surpass slopey sidepulls and slippery smears to send successfully and summit. Stupendous. Nic Perndt, Dean Rollins, Jan 2008.

FREW'S FLUTES

Necrophiliac  25m  21/22
The line L of the original first pitch to Necromancer. Step in from hand crack on the L, then climb the sustained hand and finger crack, finishing at the top of the square cut pillar. Nic Perndt, Dean Rollins, Jan 2009.

----

New routes from Nick Hancock et al at Freycinet:

Freycinet- Flowstone Wall- South Face

To the left (South) of all the other climbs on Flowstone Wall and above the swim on the Sea Level Traverse is a steeper wall. The following climbs were approached by abseil from the south side of the big block above the top pitch of Arocknophobia, but could probably be more easily approached via that climbs bolted abseil descent and then traversing below Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy.

***Ocean Of Wisdom 290m 20
1. 30m 20 Climb a left facing flake then step left and climb the beautiful dyke past 6 bolts to a DBB. 2. 60m 16 Continue up the dyke with spaced protection to a flake belay. 3. 60m 12 Climb the corner and move right to a spike belay. 4. 60m 14 Climb the slab with minimal gear past a 5 Friend to a ledge. 5. 60m 10 Climb the slab. Nick Hancock & John Fischer (AL) Sept 2008.

**Permanent Residency 300m 23
1. 40m 17 Climb the crack leading to the big roof and belay at a foothold 5 metres below. 2. 50m 23 Tackle the daunting wide roof crack on jams and a crazy kneebar, to belay in the trench above. 3. 60m 12 Climb up the corner and continue as for Ocean of Wisdom pitches 4 & 5. Nick Hancock & John Fischer (AL) Sept 2008.

• Worth Killing a Friend For 20m 23
  On the huge boulder above and left of the top or Arocknophobia and above the finishes of Ocean, Permanent and Sugar Plum, climb the very thin crack in a shallow left facing corner to move left and climb the dyke on the left side of the block via 2 bolts. John Fischer Sept 2008.

***Atonement 20m 25
Climb the stunning flake via 6 bolts to a thread and 3.5 Friend belay. Nick Hancock Jan 2009.

Bluestone Bay- Travel Land

• • Natural Athlete in a Barrel 15m 23
    The blunt arête 50 m right of Travel Land. Fridge lifting past 4 bolts to a DBB. Nick Hancock, Duncan Shepherd, Kelly-Ann Schilke & Duncan MacGregor Dec 2008.
    Freycinet- Gracelands

*Flow Rida 27 10m
The finger bending wall right of Goodness Gracious moving right at the last bolt. Ken Palmer Mar 2008.

A new one on the Pipe's just right of Double Column Central.
Approach is the same as for Split Decision.

***Mind's Eye 70m 24
1. 30m 24. Climb the blocky arete to belay. 10 bolts and yellow and/or orange metolius cam between the 6th and 7th bolt.
2. 40m 24. Up arete past 5 bolts, then up crack for 15 meters (2 x yellow metolius cams, 2 x orange metolius cams). past a few more bolts. then head right into the wide gash!!(black metolius). Continue up to belay on the top of Double Column Central, belay takes (green,light blue and black cams also you can sling a boulder a few meters back from the edge.
Jake Bresnehan 18/2/09

Decent as for Sky Rocket or exit entry.

Enjoy...

New one from Phil:
**On the Road Again 55m 17/19

A pleasant wall climb which starts half way up pitch 1 of High Wire.
Start as for High Wire by abseiling in. A 50m rope is enough with the stretch.
(1) 42m Climb approx. 20m to just past the crux arete (18/19) on High Wire and move onto the left wall. Climb just L of the nose keeping clear of the blocks to the left and go straight up the middle of the wall (17) to the base of a hand crack. Follow this to the ledge.
(2) 13m As for High Wire

Phil Robinson, Kim Robinson (1/02/09)

And another one from me:
Xanthos 48m 19
Takes a distinct and separate direct line up the face between Pegasus and Centaur. Some might see this as a mere construct, a gap filler, and so it is, but the climbing is surprisingly good and, in places, really steep. Protection is a bit sparse and difficult to arrange - lateral thinking may be required in places. (1) 33m (19) Start at the base of the cliff to the R of Pegasus and follow a line straight up the wall, keeping roughly equidistant between the two neighbouring climbs. Follow a faint arête to the R of Pegasus (crux) to a small spike when a step L can be made to the top of the Pegasus flake. (2) 15m (17) Step back R onto the wall and trend up and gradually R, keeping out of the Centaur crack. Up a steep wall past a good runner to the excellent finishing crack. Sustained, steep climbing. T. McKenny, P. Robinson, 18 Feb. 2009

New line at Ben Lomond, Last of the Independent Ranges. We rapped in after climbing Ass, Grass, etc. Cleaned out one pesky little bush on abseil. Then pulled the ropes and sent. This route is clean enough to climb. Rap tat at the top of the pitch. To access Rondeau, King of Kings and Social Lepers, as well as JWAT and climbs on The Last of The Independents: Normal approach to Barbi D, then continue scrambling around through pretty easy terrain and down a short chimney. Then, staying high when possible, continue around and up until in front of a couple 3 meter cracks bellow Rondeau ledge. It seems further scrambling is impossible, however it is quite safe and easy to continue around a couple metres then pull on through some short trees. Access to these routes in this manner is done in 15 minutes from Barbi D on your first visit. The topo in the new guidebook for LoftIR is vague, however when you get to the start of the climbs you should be ok!

• Jesus Was a Terrorist 43m 22
  The beaut finger to thin hands corner crack left of Ass, Grass, etc. Destined to be an Immortal. Take a double rack of friends 0-2.5 with plenty of wire placements to make up for less cams. A little bit Defender of the Faith, a little bit Holiday in Cambodia. The face holds should stay on if you're not too fat! Climb this right facing corner bridging on face holds til a thin hands crux gets you to a jug/no hands rest. One more tricky move gets you to an easier crack system and the rap station. If you're psyched, easily summit the 3 metre spire and whoop for joy! J. Fischer, G. Phillips, 13 Feb. 2009

Another Northern Buttress classic!

Adventure before Dementia 18m 19
Takes the arête to the L of the Chasm. Start to the R of Centaur and climb the face till it steepens. Layback the edge to the top (crux). Protection adequate but a bit sparse - RPs are the go. Belay as for Sideshow. T. McKenny, A. Adams, A. Brooks, 1 March, 2009

More from Nick:
Trial Harbour

***Only the Lonely 15m 22
Located on a distinct square topped pinnacle set back from the sea, 10 minutes past Goldrush Wall, on the way to Wheel Bay. Climb the slab and sharp arête past five glued carrots and a No.5 Friend to a DBB. Nick & Heather Hancock Feb 2009.

Loner's Rock 15m 16
Climb cracks to the R, to a ledge, then the wide crack to the summit and DBB. Nick & Heather Hancock Jan 2009.

**Tinsel Town 10m 17
Climbs the L end of Goldrush Wall, on excellent holds just R of a wide crack, to finish up a groove. Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason Jan 2009.

(Goldrush)

*Silver City 5m 17
The arête down R of Goldrush, with poor protection. Ashley Mason, Nick & Heather Hancock Feb 2009.

Pulpit Rock 7m 23
Sits high on the hillside above Trial Harbour and approached from the Climes Track. Bridge up and climb via two carrots to a carrot belay on top. Nick & Heather Hancock, Ashley Mason Feb 2009.

Garry P and Simon Y have written up a 170m new route on the East Face of Mt Anne

Prolly best new route of the year so far...

http://www.chockstone.org/NSW/DalpuraHead/Members/NeilM/WaferThinFin1l.jpg

An old (probably Jack Thwaites & Paddy Palin era) / new route (3 STARS)

http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Mt+Anne

A new route from Garn, Anders and Kate.

Tolerance and Compromise 220m 18  (aka The Toby Bown memorial route). (being his birthday)
Start: In the middle of the Bechervaise face about 8m left from the lowest part of the cliff, and a similar distance right of a big cleft corner.
1. 35m 18. Start towards a short quartzy L facing corner which finishes at 10m, then move slightly R and up to the next little L facing corner. Up this with difficult underclingy step up move to hollow little flake hold, then about 8m up to a point of indecision. Move 5m L to belay.
2. 45m 14. Lovely rising traverse to R for 10m, then step back L into line which goes through a slight bulge. Continue in line until just before grassy ramp. Follow rock below ramp up to the R for 8m.  
3. 30m 5. Wander up to base of Big corner.
4. 55m 14. Head up recessed buttress just to R of arete, follow weakness to top with glorious rock and climbing.
5. 55m 6. Bolt up the beaufuil solid juggy slap to the summit.
FA Anders Bown, Kate Snowball, Garn Cooper. 14/3/2009.

Two more from Phil  up in Arthurs Circus area.

At the far L (south) of Arthur's Circus at the top of the cliffs is a buttress with a small overhang.
Two wall climbs are found on this topped by a combined stepped finish.
Safer done as two pitches and even safer when it is not raining! Abseil in south of 'On the Road Again'.
Faith, Hope and Deliverance  30m  17  
The small overhang R of Scotch Mist.
 (1) 20m. Up through the overhang to a large flake and follow short walls to the large platform.
 (2) 10m. As for Scotch Mist.
 Phil Robinson, Kim Robinson Feb 2009.
Scotch Mist  30m  17  
(1) 20m. Climb the face around the corner, L of the overhang.
 When it blanks out go up the R arête for 3 metres until one can move back onto the face.
 Mantelshelf onto a ledge and continue to a large platform.
 (2) 10m. Straight-ahead with a finger crack on the L. followed by easier ground.
Kim Robinson, Phil Robinson Feb 2009.

And another form the Robinson/Hewer team at Bruny.

Meteor Showers          50m      15

Start R of Anty-Falaxis at twin cracks.

Climb the wall between the cracks to a ledge, up the V-corner to a thin crack and carefully to the top. The climb is followed by a 10m scramble.(i.e. 60m total). Like most of the routes here, it is probably best to belay to a fixed rope left before the climb, as there are few anchors at the top of the cliff.

P.Robinson, C.Hewer, K.Robinson          21/03/09

Another from Garry:

Top tier at Neika.  Its the route on the extreme RH side.
 
No Name 25 10m
The steep over hanging prow.  Jugs lead to a powerful fingery crux.
Garry Phillips,18 April 2009.
 

A couple of new ones added by Simon Young:

At the Star Factory:

Juicebox 20m 22 (2 Bolts + Natural Gear)
The obvious corner to the Right of Kims Project. Up past two bolts into the corner. Up this to the lower-off for Kims Project. Gear from tips to #1 Camalot. FA S.Young April 2009

At Little Bluestone, Rubiks Cube:

Low-Flyer Wall: The steep wall that faces the the track where it meets Bluestone Bay. with two bolted routes as desrcibed below.

1. Project 8m
Project. Left line of bolts. S. Young

2. Low-Flyer 8m 23
Right line of bolts. Steep face climbing to lower-off. FA S.Young 2006

a couple arent exactly 'new' but i thought id added them to the guide but hadnt!!! theres also a slab with some bolts in it out at tetragamaton buttress. i climbed that in 200 too but dont have info, is at home so will add that when i home too! i think its grade 19/20 from memory, fully bolted!

new route up at mt anne:

as well as climbing this new route i have added a single bolt(10x60mm SS Trubolt) to the descent gully to make the single 30m rap to the base of the face.

"This Boys in Love, 140m, 14 A3"

1. 50m, 14 A1. Up steep broken ground heading towards the base of the large Left facing corner on the left of the face. At base of corner head left 5m to belay beneath thin crack in middle of face.
2. 50m, A2+. Hook up off the ledge to gain the thin crack. Much small gear leads you up and up before belaying on top of large detached pillar.
3. 40m, A3. Spicy peckers off the belay lead to mantel into base of A1 crack to the summit. belay up and right in obvious crack.

FA Simon Young(solo) 3/10/2009

From here traverse off left along back to main walking track, hairy in places! is possible to continue rambling up to the top buttress, time, cold and lack of bivy gear led me out back to civilisation.

Suggested Rack:
doubles of cams from teeny micros to #2 camalot
singles #3 & #4
double set of wires
all sizes hooks(cam hooks useful)
selection of pins, mostly blades/peckers
testicles, preferably large(had none on FA, but would be useful)

Am writing up a proper trip report to put up on my blog and should be done soon! i still feel pretty beat up physicaly, this has been one of my most crazy adventures to date!

spunky monkey: on the shady side of the gorge. 3 bolts up the arete next to magical mystery mousy tour.

deathrow direct: takes the same start as deathrow then continues up the fused seam and arete/corner feature above past some suspect pro. dbb as for deathrow.
i'd like to add a bolt to make it safe. if anyone has climbed it before and doesnt want a bolt added let me know. otherwise ill stick a bolt in it and it will be a safe route

New route Uphill Buttress, Gorge
Waiting for Kate. 8metres 17 2FH
On the face uphill and to the right of Speransky
FA Dennis Kearnes and Kate Tasker 4/11/09

Here's a new one on the little crag before Sphinx Rock, the 'Right hand side' as it's called in the guide. Many thanks to Simon Young who bolted it and let us try it.

Morphine 24 5m
The furthest right line. A sequence of powerful moves past two U-bolts to a DBB. Finish matched on the top of the wall. Sam Peyr & Will Bartlett, Nov/09

**No Name 25/26 30m
The line to the right of Sultan of Sweat. I think it might be 26 but i might be unfit.
Garry Phillips, 12/11/09

oh its at the paradiso at mt brown and if any one wants to know. Its all dry!!!!

New route at Waterworks:

Weetbix 11m 14/15 3U-Bolts
2-3m right of the Eye Bolt Route. Up dark slabby rock past 3 U-bolts. Trend R at top to lower off. E Jones, T Gilbert and G Abell, 14/11/2009.

Its still a bit gritty and is typical of Waterworks routes ... be wary it might still shed some rock!

new one down at mt brown. awesome fun!

**Awake My Soul, 25, 60m

Access:
Head out as if going to the paradiso, but instead of dropping down to the Paradiso continue for 10 mins more up along the top of the cliff. A faint track marks the way. Bolts are located on slabs facing Cape Raoul(cairned). Just as the cliff reaches the highest point. All belays fully bolted.

One 60m rope is enough to rap both pitches. Ample bolts provide an easy escape if need be.

Route Description:
1) 30m, 25. Tricky sequence off the belay leads up the face on slopy holds(crux). After no-hands rest head R and up to DBB (fully bolted).
2)30m, 19. Bolts lead up the face till the crack accepts gear. Continue to top.

Rack:
14 quick draws (a couple should be alpine draws)
Singles of .5, .75, 1 camalot
Doubles of 2 & 3 camalot

FA: Garry Phillips & Simon Young with thanks to Alex Lewis

Another new route at Cataract Gorge Shady Side.

The Secret Read 20 5BR 15m

Just to the left of the recent "The best thing since fat bottomed girls" and shares the same start chimney and first FH. Route only becomes visible when you move left on the first big ledge. Step in from the block at the base and bridge up the semi open book corner. A few delicate face moves on small holds. Shares the same top anchor as TBTSFBG. FA I.Ferrier M Johnston Nov 09

I've just added this to the Cataract Gorge Guide
Cataract Gorge shady side, also in the poem recess, AKA the toilet recess

**Sounding Silence 24, 15m
The main line up the face of the alcove. Climb past 3 FH to stand on pedestal, place some gear in the crack, from here some holds out left lead the way to the top. DBB on ledge. A.Geeves, S.Young Nov 2009

Here is a new IMMORTAL? that the old guys missed out on....

Lay Lady Lay 170m 24
IMMORTAL??
Blast up the middle of the Laendler Face. Sure to keep you smiling for a day or two.
Take a biggish range of gear from tips to the #6 camolot. Doubles up to #4 camalot, maybe some triples of tips to #1 could also calm your nerves.
Start 30m R of Laendler at a prominent NW-facing crack splitting the front of a column (as for Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door).
1) 25m 17. Up the crack (hands then offwidth then squeeze chimney) to ledge.
2) 25m 24. “The Fire Cracker!!” On right side of ledge up past a flared hand jam start heading towards the roof, climbing on the right side of the fin. Traverse left under roof. Belay up 2 meters and left of roof.
3) 20m 16. Step back right and climb the line above, eventually break out left on face holds to access the ledge and the start of "the squeeze)
4) 10m 17. "The squeeze" take some big gear!
5) 25m 19. Straight up twin cracks via some tricky lay lady lay moves. Belay on high ledge or take a few extra mid sized cams and link pitch 5 and 6.
6)12m 23. More lay lady lay moves provides and exciting end to this IMMORTAL??
7) 10m 10. Head up on the ridge till you can sneak around left to the start of pitch 8.
8) 25m 18. As for Rock-A-Day Johnny. Up recessed L-facing corner on R to niche, move L and up to ledge, then up short crack on L to block belay.
9) 25m. Scramble to the top.
Descend is best by walking down the first suitable gully in the Heathcliff direction (about 300m from the top of the route) - this is very easy and much quicker than the standard descent gully. You should come down directly in front of the main buttress of The Rocks.
Gary Phillips, Jake Bresnehan (alt.), 26-11-2009

Jed has done some new routes at Mother Cummings Peak: http://jedparkes.wordpress.com/2010/01/08/2010-is-it/

New route at the Tyndalls. This is the first route on the buttress at the northern end of the lake and should provide another good route for moderate grade climbers to go and have a fun day out on.

How Hard Can it Be? 165m 22 ***

A great moderate adventure route, taking a line up some good features on the large buttress at the Northern end of the lake. Although appearing broken when viewed from the top of the main wall, the climbing is surprisingly consistent and generally on immaculate rock. Fully bolted, it provides a fun long route that is more accessible to the average climber than the routes on the main wall. The first pitch's hanging arete provides amazing exposure for the grade.

Access
From the cave head NE past Feral Prow aiming for furthest significant visible buttress. Walking is easy and open except for a 20m short scrubby gully. A cairn marks the start of a faint pad through this. Once on the other side head low along terraces to traverse onto the flat slabs that cap the buttress. Head down off the East side and along more terraces heading back towards the main wall to end up on a big ledge facing the main wall. The first U bolts are easily found on the left end of this ledge leading down the slab (not over the headwall). Takes about 20min from the cave and is not as epic as it sounds!

Gear: 2 ropes needed for abseiling, but climbing is fine on a single.
14 draws
Screwgates for belays
Helmets

To get to the bottom:
1. From the initial bolts rap 15m down slabs to anchors next to arete.
2.Rap 30m left over arete down headwall (NOT straight down wall where route goes) to reach big grassy ledge. Next anchors are on rock ledge a few metres down from big grassy ledge.
3.From u bolts on arete 15m straight down to next ledge.
4.40m following arete for 20m then straight down to stance where obvious quartz dyke meets arete.
5.27m swing left into corner/scoop then down to stance on arete above prow
6.25m down left side of prow to hit small ledge with 2 FH

To get to the top:
1.23m 22 From small ledge head straight up wall for 10m then follow bolts out right to airy exposed stance on arete (crux). Climb thoughtfully up blunt arete to belay on ‘The Nose’.
2.27m 16 Head up from ‘The Nose’ belay into scoop/corner in slab. Straight up this to the beautiful quartz dyke, then right along dyke to belay at stance on arete.
3.42m 19 Up corner above belay to thin moves at overlap (crux) then up easier angled arete to grassy ledge.
4.15m 18 A boulder straight off the belay leads to pleasant, easy climbing to next ledge.
5.15m 16 A shitty access traverse pitch. Down climb off back right of ledge, step across the gap, then climb up to the next ledge (to finish 10m away from previous belay, at same height!).
6.27m 21 Crank through initial steep bulge, then up thin face to belay on arete.
7.14m 10 Straight up next to arete.

FA Will Bartlett, Alex Lewis 20/2/2010

Ben Lommond is going off! "Position" is German for approach. About the asterisk thing: When you look at the photo topo in the Memories of a Journey there is a "Rock Island" described. This route is the arete to the right of the rock island with a fixed wire about 12 meters up. 5 more new routes at the Ben still to write up!

This one is on Robin's Buttress

Access: Located on the far left of Robin’s Buttress. Walk up the descent gully, near the top of the scree section it is possible to scramble back right to the base of the main cliff. The climb starts up the corner with a finger crack.
Captain Planet 21** 65m
1) 20m 21. Climb finger crack to a ledge at 7m. Continue finger locking and laybacking up corner until an exciting exit up the slabby groove.
2) 35m 21. What a splitter! Easier than it looks thanks to numerous face hold. Direct off the belay is committing as it is difficult to place gear from the face holds. Alternatively, it is possible to climb up right and step into the line.
3) 10m easy. Solo to top
Gear: 1 set wires, double cams from tips to 0.4 lots of 0.5, 0.75 & 1, 2ea of 2, 3 optional.
Andrew Geeves, Ben Veltkamp alt. 06-02-2010

another route at microworld!
I'd rather be eating a super schnitzel 6m 15
The prominent crack in the corner a few metres right of Dave's Project. This steep, dirty, mossy off-hand crack is every bit as good as it sounds! jam to the top, mantle into the sharp bushes and step left to DBB on Dave's Project. Rap off and wish you were doing something worthwhile.
FA Alex Lewis, WIll Bartlett 15/3/10

A route by garry at Mount Brown:

**K2 55m 21
starts 20m right of Total Recall in a small right facing corner.
1) 25m 21 Follow the bolts to the ledge. Fantastic rock.
2) 30m 21 Up to the break and then leftwards and up to next ledge.
Quite whilst your ahead and rap the route (two 30m raps) or 1 extra bolt gives access to the top.
F.A. G Phillips and A Lewis 25/3/10

Three more small routes at Micro World:

Georgie's Climb 10m 21
The little roof about 5m left of Little Ripper. Climb up the face to a tricky boulder problem at the roof. Continue up to the DBB on Dirty Dog.
Jon Nermut Apr 2010 (with pre-placed gear).

Dirty Dog 10m 14
The crack and corner right of Georgie's Climb. DBB.
Jon Nermut Apr 2010.

18 Collar Cool 8m 22 3Þ
Great climbing up the arete. Stick clip the first bolt then head for the layaways and jugs.
Dave Humphries Apr 2010

Nick Hancock and friends have put up 14 new routes on Schouten Island. I have split out these and the existing Schouten climbs into a new page: Schouten Island

Another one at the Micro World:

Hawk Eye 10m 20

The arete and face around the corner from Rough as Guts. A tricky start gives way to pleasant climbing, head a move or two left at the last bolt. 5 bolts, DBB on block.

Will Bartlett & Sam Peyr, April 2010

And just on the face to the right...

Will & Sam's Project 13m

1 FH leads to a thin seam. Closed.

New route up at nieka middle tier.

Sleep, eat, bolt, climb, repeat. 15m 26 **

5 bolts up steep wall right of kickstart. A technical crux to the 4th bolt leads to jugs up the headwall to lower off.

Alex Lewis, Simon Young - June 2010 

Another one at nieka, on the bottom tier

Freshly Baked  20m 23

Start 5m left of Couch Potato in a steep corner capped by roof.  Up corner then out left through roof, mantle onto slab then up the groove to the top. 8 bolts+lower off

Alex Lewis, Will Bartlett - June 2010

These are from Nick Hancock

New Routes July 2010
Freycinet- Sow Spur
No 18.5
***Deliverance (aka Squeal Like a Pig) 40m 24
One of the best, most interesting and well bolted slab climbs in the State. Start
below a line of bolts leading up left to the most distinct white streak in the blank
slab. Climb up leftwards over an overlap to join the streak. Make crux moves up,
then left across it. Climb the runnel and then move right along a thin overlap,
before climbing slightly left to finish. 12 bolts to DBB. Nick & Heather Hancock
and Quinn Griggs April 2010

Tasman Peninsula- Mount Brown

Crescent Bay- Standup Point- before all existing routes

*Ripley Holden 10m 19 DWS
Corner crack on west side of box shaped zawn 5 minutes from Crescent Bay.
Nick Hancock Dec 2006

**Blackpool 15m 22 DWS
The high square arête to the right.
Ken Palmer Dec 2006

West Coast- Velvet Underground

Lonesome Cowboy Bill 20m 16
On the far left of the crag climb a flake crack then up right to finish.
Heather & Nick Hancock March 2008

Another route up at nieka, this time on the top tier

About 15m left of where the track meets the buttress, just left of a big chossy roof, there are 2 converging lines of bolts to a lower off.

Not Worth The Ink 10m 21

The right hand line. start by jumping for a jug on the lip of the cave to clip the first bolt. up arete to ledge then face above.

A.Lewis & W.Bartlett- July 2010

New trad classic at the star factory!

Total Eclipse of the Heart 20m 28 ***

The obvious corner right of the reason. climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner.

Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground.

Alex Lewis July 2010