Blog from February, 2011

Ingvar Lidman has climbed the hardest new route to date on Ben Lomond. The Wizard (40m, 28). It is the second line right of Pipeline and up left of Laendlar. A pencil line straight up the wall with the occasional fingerlock and very sustained with a heinous crux section of tips laybacking. Done in CJ approved style with all gear placed on lead - no dogging in pieces or pre-placed gear.

This may be old news, but the first bolt on Up There Cazaly at Hillwood appears to be missing a bolt and hanger. Any reason for concern? Can it be replaced?

And just to hijack my own thread, is it just me who believes Sugar Mountain to be a pile of poo? What's with the three stars!?

Oh and from watching a mate on Good Friday it appears to have lost both holds and any climbing appeal. And a hold is missing from the start of Yuddy Boody Noo, making it more cruxy than it was, especially if you are under 6 foot tall. Hillwood is falling apart faster than Waterworks! Dear Merciful God.

Hi, I've just moved to Kingston and are looking for climbing friends. I'm from Sweden and moved here with my boyfriend in the end of January. I've been climbing for about 5 years, but mostly bouldering. I found out that the gym have closed so I guessed this is where I could find some people to go climbing with.

I would say that I climb about grade 18-22 at the moment, haven't been climbing regularly for 1 1/2 year so I'm a bit weak, which I hope i can do something about soon. In bouldering I think I was climbing 24 before I went travelling. Those grades are confusing....

I will be here for at least a year and as my boyfriend is Tasmanian probably longer so I'm looking forward to meeting at least some of you.

Cheers

Malin

Steve Cameron has some gear he found on Moonraker in January, a nut and two slings. Post a contact if it is yours. Cheers, Tony

Legendary Natimuk climber Malcolm Matheson onsighted Tassies steepest crack at Whiskey Jim Hill, the Whiskey Jim Crack (25) confirming its grade and good quality.

The (hardcopy) Climbing Guide mentions some routes exist in the Collinsvale/Glenlusk area but there's no other information (such as actual location), does anyone know anything about these lost routes? or of where someone could find such information?

Dave T

Well this has been on my to-do list for some time and I have finally got around to it. 

A bit of a geeky way around it but I think for future reference and some motivation for me and others it will be a useful resource. 

Tassie’s Hardest Routes

You can click on the tabs at the bottom of the spreadsheet to see some useful graphs and a list of projects.

Note: It’s not complete and needs editing!!

I am more then happy to grant anyone editing access just send me an email and I will do so. I just don’t want to have it open so any old chump can go in and delete all the data.

Hopefully soon I can start the “Tassies Hardest Boulders” spreadsheet.

Thanks to Garry Phillips for starting the list of routes and to Derek Thatcher for sharing his template!!

Who will do Tassie’s first 33?

One of the boys left a draw on the top bolt of LKG after benightment last tuesday. I think the guys willl go get it in the next few days. However, if someone is our there earlier and grabs it, please get in contact with us.

Cheers

Last night (15th Feb 2011) DMM received information from a U.S retailer regarding size 5 (Blue)

Dragon Cams. They have found cracks on the aluminium axle boss on two of the Dragon Cam size 5s

they have in stock. This boss is a turned part similar to the original Dragon 6 that was recalled on the

22nd July 2010.

For the safety of all of our customers we are issuing an immediate recall for all Dragon Cams size 4

and 5 with turned axle bosses . At present there is no evidence that suggests the

size 4 Dragon Cams are affected. However, we feel it appropriate to include them in the recall due to

similarities in construction.

I am aware of at least one Size 4 Dragon that was sold at Reel Rock that I can't track down.

If anyone knows anyone with Dragon Cams please get them to check the boss and if they have a CNC milled head like shown above,

PLEASE RETURN TO THE JOLLY SWAGMAN, 107 ELIZABETH ST FOR A REFUND!

Because of a different axle boss, Sizes 1, 2 & 3 are not affected by this.

DMM has some of the highest quality standards in the world. Unfortunately this Dragon Cam recall has been the only one in the history of the brand. Our number one priority is the safety of our customers and the climbing community.

This information can also be found at;

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/dragonrecall45.asp?l=en

Cheers

Jason Turvey

The Jolly Swagman
107 Elizabeth Street
Hobart
6234 3999

The upper wall on the right hand side of Bare Rock keeps producing the goods. Good rock quality, excellent climbing on a one pitch route with 150m of exposure. Access via the 3 pitch climb Tomorrows Dream (19).

Into the Void 45m 25 ***
Next line left of Supernaut and 2nd line in from the left side of the face (a project). Shares first 4 bolts of Fairies Wear Boots (27). Up very overhanging wall (crux) to hanging corner. Up corner to the right with a tricky move (23), then onto the face for another 4 bolts worth of superb face climbing to join the last half of Supernaut. 20 bolts FA : Gerry Narkowicz 12/2/11

Visiting from the states for business and I was hoping to get out and climb on Wednesday February 16th.  I have gear but no car.  If need be I could get a car.  I am staying in Hobart.  I mostly sport climb but have done a fair amount of gear climbing.  Ideally looking to get on some 5.11 or 5.12 sport.  I have been climbing for over 10 years and know what I'm doing (I think).  I'll furnish the beer if the willing participant has a taste for the fine beverage.  Help a brotha out!

Hi,

I'm looking for a partner to climb the the Totem Pole somewhere at Feb 13th-24th.

I Don't lead trad but can be second. I have a car.

Leave a message or call me 046-7483691

Dolev

Have to come to Hobart for a meeting next week which finishes lunch time Saturday. Have lined up some Tasman Peninsula climbing on Wed/Thurs, but looking to go climbing from Sat 1pm and all day Sunday. Get a late flight back to Sydney. I have a car so can join people somewhere......

Will have a rope/draws but can only squeeze in a light rack. Climb sport routes to 24 and trad to 22 though I have to say some of the 18s and 20s at the organ pipes felt quite stout when I was in Hobart a few weeks ago let alone the 17s at Frenchmans!   Vanessa 0434-600921

Hi all,

My girlfriend and I are leaving flooded and cyclone ravaged Queensland  this saturday and heading to Tassie  for three weeks of climbing and sea kayaking. The rough plan is to spend a few days around Cole's Bay for some cragging at Whitewater wall etc, and some multipitch climbing the at Hazards, before heading to Hobart and the Tasman Peninsula.

We don't go too hard, and we're mostly looking for climbing in the sub grade 20 range. I'm keen for Pneisses and/or Japhlion at the Hazards, but the tales I've heard of Japhlion including grade 20ish moves 10m out from gear has me a bit nervous. . .

I'm also keen for the sealevel traverse at the Hazards, which sounds like an awesome day out, if we can figure out a way to get a lift back at the end. If anyone is going to be in that neck of the woods next week and wants to be in on a car shuttle and a day of slab traversing and swimming let me know (scott.godwin4 at gmail.com or 0432 409 162).

Cheers,

Scott

Found a pair of Climbing boots at Waterworks Quarry a week or so ago.  Drop me a line on 0414209609 if they are yours.