Blog from September, 2012

Just over a week ago, I was lucky enough to climb The Grand Wall at Squamish. And now it's Grand Final Day, and Huey is chucking it down in Hobart. Here's what we've got just about right on midday:

It's probably like this all over the state, so I thought you might like a bit of a diversion.
First though, a bit of back story. When Di and I were at City of Rocks in southern Idaho we met a couple from Bozeman. HJ and Tammy were there with a large group of friends: kids, dogs - the whole shebang. Over the course of our stay, and through running into each other at various crags, we got pretty friendly with this mob, especially HJ and Tammy. As you do, we got talking about various climbing venues, including Squamish. HJ had been to Squamish and done lots of climbing there, although not for quite a while. He'd done The Grand Wall (a route that I'd aspired to for a long time, but thought I'd missed my chance) twice before. When I said that I really wish I'd done it, HJ said that he and Tammy were thinking about a trip out to Squamish about the time Di and I would be there, and offered to climb The Grand Wall with me, leading the harder pitches. 'Brilliant!', I thought, but maybe too good to come true? Well, sure enough, HJ and Tammy did come to Squamish and we had a great couple of weeks with them. Now, here's the report. I've copied and pasted from my blog, so please excuse any repetition (and apologies in advance for photos taken at ground level - Di wasn't using a very powerful lens).

The Grand Wall: a dream comes true!

HJ had asked a couple of days before, "When do you want to do The Grand Wall?" My answer had been along the lines of "In a few more days when I'm feeling rested." Well that time had arrived. And ... considering that way back when we were at the City of Rocks together, I'd told HJ how it had always been a dream of mine to climb The Grand Wall ... and he'd offered to lead the harder pitches for me ... and he'd come all this way ... well, I thought it was about time that I accepted the challenge. I was pretty sure that I could climb all or most of the route, but that there were a couple of places that I might fall and have to try again. I was nervous but really, really wanted to try this climb that had been on my mind for so long.

We'd had a day climbing on The Apron and were planning a rest the next day after three days on. Di and I finished our route early, went into town and had a late lunch an then got back to The Chief to wait for Tammy and HJ. Eventually, HJ and Tammy arrived back. I had sort of lost track of days by this stage, but suddenly realised that the next day was still only Friday, and that it would be silly to rest then and climb again on Saturday when it was likely to be more crowded. A germ of an idea started to grow in my brain ...after a bit of small talk, I asked HJ if he wanted to get on The Grand Wall the next day. "What time do you want to start?" was his reply.

To cut to the chase: after a restless night - for me, probably not for HJ - we found ourselves at the base of The Chief at 9:00 a.m. We'd decided to climb the route via theApron Strings and Merci Me before heading right towards the right side of the Split Pillar. Pitch ratings for the entire route to Bellygood Ledge, which is where the route officially ends (although you can continue to the top of The Chief via the Roman Chimneys, another 4 pitches of climbing at 11a or 11d - depending on which route choice you make) was as far as we were going are: 10b, 10a, 5.7, 5.9, 10b/AO, 10b, 11a, AO(bolt ladder), 11a, 10a, 10c. A very full day out for me, and a pretty good workout for HJ. Our combined ages are 110 years, and I'd bet there aren't many older teams who tackle this route each year.

If you are unfamiliar with the hype surrounding the Grand Wall, here is the overview from Marc Bourdon's 2012 guide book:

When we arrived at the base of The Chief another party had just started up the route. Johnny and Shona were mere youngsters at 31 and 41 years of age, respectively. Once it became apparent - quite soon, actually - that we were climbing more quickly than them they offered to let us pass. We conferred and decided to do that at the base of the Split Pillar, as the belays between the Apron Strings and that station aren't very spacious. As it turned out, we were the only two parties to climb the Grand Wall that day, which was a bit of a surprise given the brilliant weather conditions.

Anyway, back to the route itself. Here's a topo of Apron Strings (route #14) which gets a "Top 100" rating in its own right ...

We tied in and, once Shona had arrived at Johnny's belay at the top of the first pitch, HJ set off. Unfortunately, our day didn't get off to the best of starts. Neither HJ nor I are prone to dropping gear, but HJ dropped his carabiner full of wires just near the top of pitch one. Luckily it was a great pass, hitting me right on the chest (one rib is still a little sore!).
On the next pitch, I dropped a cam. Sadly it didn't hit HJ on the chest, disappearing below somewhere. Thankfully, that was the end of our fumblings and the rest of the climb went smoothly.
Apart from waiting for Johnny and Shona, we made short work of the next three pitches which look like this:

If you looked closely, you will have noticed that there is not a lot of protection on the 5.7 pitch - only three bolts in the 35 metres before you arrive at the belay. HJ was cruising along so fast he almost missed the third bolt! Here's a photo that he took of me nearing the end of the pitch ...

... and another at the top of the fourth pitch (if you look at the full-sized image, you should be able to just see Shona at my left (your right), the rope leading across pitch 5 to the belay at the bottom of the Split Pillar, and Johnny at the belay):

Once HJ had led across to the base of the Split Pillar, and we'd swapped positions with Shona and Johnny I rolled up my sleeves (literally: the top I was wearing has very long sleeves!) and got to work. I was really looking forward to getting back on this pitch again. It's an absolutely stunning 40 metres of climbing. As you can see, the guide says "Pumpy for the grade." Not unlike a lot of the great classic pitches at around the 18 - 20 range on Ben Lomond in Tasmania. Here's the beta:

HJ didn't get a photo of this pitch, but here's one from when Di and I did it in 2000:

How about that, eh!

Next it was on to new ground (for me), and time for HJ to shine. He'd climbed The Grand Wall twice before, via the Cruel Shoes start, and was licking his lips to get back on the Sword pitch. Here's the description and topo of it, with the Bolt Ladder that lies above:

HJ really came into his own at this stage. He led The Sword - the first of two 11a pitches - cleanly and coolly. Here's a sequence of photos he took of me following:
Near the start ...

... above the first crux ...

... and nearing the top, just before pulling back across into the second crux, which involves a strenuous layback sequence up to HJ's stance:

I got through the first crux and within two metres of the belay but had a little slip there at the second crux. Darn! A short rest and I pulled back on and made it to the anchors. Whew! The first test was behind us.

Back at ground level, Di took this photo of us at the belay at the top of the Sword. I've marked in the two cruxes on the pitch:

We are about 210 metres above the ground at this stage ...

I wondered fleetingly about leading the Bolt Ladder to maintain our sequence of alternating leads, but having had no aid experience I quickly banished that thought! Once we'd rearranged the ropes, HJ set off. Most people go this way, but a very select group of strong climbers do a free variation to the right (visible in the topo of the Sword and Bolt Ladder). Here HJ is just reaching the top of the Bolt Ladder pitch:

He took this snap of me following:

(You can clearly see the dyke of Merci Me behind my left shoulder.)
On to Perry's Layback, and HJ came through with all aces. Here's the topo and description from the guide book ...

... and a picture of him about two-thirds of the way up the pitch ...

... and another employing the "innovative chimney rest"!:

It was a bit tenuous towards the end, but he managed to get through this very strenuous pitch without falling. You champion, HJ! I wish I could say the same! Just to make sure she got an accurate depiction of our ascent, Di took this photo of me hanging on the rope after one of my slip-ups (It probably won't wash, but my excuse is that I was carrying the pack with all of our gear) ...

... but she did take a photo of me actually climbing this strenuous pitch. Judging from the way I am standing I'm probably just about ready to slip off again:

I did manage eventually to do all the moves, and arrived at the belay all a-tremble. A rest was in order.
Now we had only had two pitches to go. It was my lead. Just a 5.9 traverse with a 10a "reach" move at the end. But was I tired. Here's what the pitch is about:

Like I said, I was tired. Nevertheless, I set out and staggered across "The Flats" to the end of the pitch and the 10a "reach".
Here's a photo of me about halfway through the pitch:

And then I arrived at the last real move of the pitch, the "reachy crux". Yep, "reachy" all right. A reach too far. Bugger!!! I just could not reach, and had to aid this move. Annoying, but c'est la vie, n'est-ce pas?
One pitch to go: a strenuous 10 undercling to a layback:

Even HJ was tired by this stage, but with some cunning footwork he managed to get to the top without falling. Here he is just completing the pitch:

Taking HJ's lead - and watching his every move closely - I managed to follow this last, strenuous pitch without falling off. Hallelujah!! It was a high five moment but we couldn't toast our success as we'd drunk all our water. Here we are at the top of our route:

Yes, I know. HJ looks cheerful and fresh as a daisy, and I look dopey and whacked. Don't be fooled: HJ was pretty tired too, and I was over the moon!
After a brief rest we toddled off across Bellygood Ledge, which is a real hoot. It's a narrow walkway about 100 metres long with tremendous exposure, being some 400 metres or so above the ground below. Some people squirm across it on their bellies, and for a moment I feared that I might have to do the same. Then I realised that there was a great undercling at about knee level that made the traverse easy. HJ, in his graceful and poised way didn't bother with the undercling.

We made quick work of the walk back down the trail and were soon with back our darlings below, who - surprisingly - didn't have the beers open when we arrived!

Say what????????