I bet that got everyones attention.

My second today felt she could have easily pulled out a flake/block on the right hand wall a metre or two above the teatree. I would have suggested she sensitively cleaned it... but i didn't want my pack and shoes squished. Maybe its locked in some how i'm not sure.

The controversial bolt belay is strangely hard to reach, if u r a short bugger don't get too excited about an easy belay set up. there is a third bolt a bit lower so u could use that and some natural gear to make something adequate.

 this is not an ethical or personal attack

just sayin

 

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9 Comments

  1. Doug Bruce

    Just saying you are spot on, Dave. I've had discussions with Alex about the bolts. As you say, the lower of the three is fine but the top are unreachable. (For some reason Alex and Garry thought it would be a good idea to have them high enough to place them by standing in a sling off the lower of the three bolts. I'm still trying to figure that one out.) The natural gear is a ways back at ass level: not an ideal scenario. I think a couple of short lengths of chain need to be added to the top two bolts - or at least one of them.

    Re the block in question: when Di and I did it she was concerned about a loose block. I had a look at it and thought that it was locked in, although it did move a bit. It may or may not be the same one (I think it probably was: I didn't find anything else that was mobile. It would be good to get some more feedback on this one.

    1. Phil Robinson

      Oh no, surely not more ironware.

      1. Doug Bruce

        The bolts could be pulled and lowered. A lot more faffing about.

    2. dave james AUTHOR

      thanks, i think adding chain would be more sensitive than drilling new holes/attempting to repair old ones.

       

      1. Doug Bruce

        It's a dilemma, and after all the acrimony I'm not sure whether to take you at face value or not. But the positioning of the anchor means that either way it doesn't amount to visual pollution from other places on the Pipes, especially if it is prepped with paint first. I'm very happy to supply the chain and shackles or new bolts and help with the tidy up, whatever the consensus is re the best way to go about things. It wouldn't be so bad with the expansion bolt, but the U is a lot more problematic. I don't like chain much - it's much messier looking than a couple of FIXE rap rings or a FIXE rap station (Garry's stations are very similar) but might be the best way to ameliorate the situation.

  2. Jed Parkes

    Wow you guys read my mind. I did the route on Tuesday and I though there was heaps of loss shit on it. But it was good climbing.

    I had no chance of reaching the top 2 bolts (short arse) so in the end i had to build a traditional belay. I don't see why the bolts are nesassary (wink)

    1. dave james AUTHOR

      wow jed, i think u r the only one weaving a path of moderation!

       

  3. Doug Bruce

    Nice one, Jed!

  4. garry phillips

    Hi there

    The bolts are high and that was so that when you rig a cordlette its at a good height to belay from.  A small chain only 10cm long would do the job if people want them lower them though.
    There is no need to drill another set in my opinion.