Hi there

I've been told that someone was bolting the upper wall right of Ophthalmia and left of Peacepipe the other day. I climbed a route up there a few years ago but it seems to have missed making the guide... I found the original write up here though: http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/2013/01/07/New+Routes+and+News+2013?focusedCommentId=294715394#comment-294715394

Perhaps what we climbed a few years ago didn't get put into the guide because of the note I made about the direct start (which has since been cleaned and top-roped - just waiting to be climbed, possibly with a few bolts of its own... still undecided on that one). Considering it is missing from the guide, I just thought I'd make sure that the existing trad route isn't in the same place as this new bolted/mixed route.

If anyone wants to talk to me about this directly without posting here, send me an email. I've added my email address to the About Me section of my profile on thesarvo for now (note: I'll be out of contact for up to a week from now though)

Cheers

 

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6 Comments

  1. Tony McKenny

    Deano, have you got editor rights, will enter them for you if not.

  2. Jon Nermut

    Oh oh, here we go again. Guess no one noticed that comment to put the routes in the guide. I rapped and top roped that face several years ago and decided it had too much trad gear to bolt...

  3. Hamish Jackson

    Sorry Deano: Tom A and I just looked at the guide, which is generally rapidly updated these days thanks to a generally efficient editor group , and naturally concluded it was an 'unclimbed line'. Strange to be on the other end of such an event.

    I noticed the line over a year ago, then TR the whole arete a few months back with Shumita (and cleaned quite a bit of rock off, but that is the nature of Pipes isn't it). Our intended climb at the outset was a full 50m pitch...  we got too cold bolting the route the other day! The bolts are spaced. The arete could suit being a two pitch thing - indeed there is probably a lower pitch to do to get onto the ledge 15m up. I'll email you in person so we can talk about what to do with your previously climbed upper section, and the rest of it too. 

    Jon: as a 50m pitch it is mostly sport so I had decided to bolt the whole arete as I have received a fair bit of criticism for leaving minority trad on mostly sport routes on a number of occasions! I think you may even have advised me thus as you very helpfully got me started on my bolting career in recent years!

    Editors: the editor rights issue is fairly murky to 'outsiders'. As I have previously noted: there is a route of mine on the pipes that has not been written up despite my nagging. Furthermore, the guide to me seems somewhat biased in favour of editors routes. This is not unusual for guides from single editors, however it gets a bit 'in group vs out group' when there are many editors. I do understand some were concerned about potential poor quality of editing, but overall, are we sure the 'pipes system' is better than the wiki system?

  4. Roger Parkyn

    Isn't it time that the editor-rights on the Mt Wellington guide was freed up so that more people can edit it? The anyone-can-edit approach has worked well on all the other crags.  The current MW guide is the result of input from many people over many years. The current exclusivity is causing recurrent problems. 

  5. Phil Robinson

    I agree with Hamish and Roger wholeheartedly. Having put up new routes since the 1970s and an Organ Pipes guide in 1981 it is very frustrating to have ones routes scrutinised and commented on without redress.  Phil

  6. garry phillips

    sounds good to me as well.