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apologies if this topic gets dug up boringly on a regular basis.

great day on candlestick yesterday. pipped at the post by some mainlanders to  do the regular route. not inclined to do the 18 option with the bolts at the base as it seems like  an epic magnet. Thought the crack straight across from the mainland ledge (swim start) looked doable.  climbed it from the very far left end of the big ledge (where you start regular route). Thoroughly enjoyed it and couldn't understand how i'd never done it before or why its not the modern way to do the candle stick.

I had a recollection that someone had posted on thesarvo about doing it. Maybe even roger parkyn just a couple of years ago

Its way too obvious that no-one would have ever climbed it. There was a carabiner on a ledge near the top but thats not saying much.

davecandlestick.jpg

i've attached a photo so people can see it. It looks a touch wandery but climbed well this way.

 i couldn't find reference to it via search bar on thesarvo but maybe didn't look hard enough.

whos dun it?

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11 Comments

  1. Did you notice the 3 comments at the bottom of the guide page? could be one of the routes mentioned there

  2. Haven't done it but I noticed it looked like a great way to go when I was on the tote last year. I think I spoke to you about it afterwards actually. 

    Also Dave: could you add some more info on the nearby The Big Scary Shady Cliff? there seems to be a few typos and i couldn't really work out where these cliffs were from the description... deliberately oblique? a photo would be good too.

    1. dave james AUTHOR

      Ah cool. I suspect that discussion is why I had some recollection of it being a post on thesarvo, obviously mixing my dendrites. Yeah I'll do some pics for bluefin etc although they will be heavily cropped shots from a boat...

  3. I climbed it that way around 1986, going up that obvious corner from the sea and then continuing straight up the line above to the top  - lots of loose rock so it might have been the first ascent, although the Candlestick is fairly loose in general. It was about 18 as I recall.

     

    1. dave james AUTHOR

      Great David! I thought same,  about 18. I'm going to write a description and put it on thesarvo. I'll put you as the first ascentionist and however you were with ? I may also acknowledge that being so obvious the route may have been climbed before and after. Sound ok?

  4. Sure. My second was Lorne Kriwoken. The psychological crux was the swim!

    1. dave james AUTHOR

      hi david. is this the route you thought i was referring to? its quite different.

      1. dave james AUTHOR

        i think the route above is th 18 route that has a bolt at sea level. anyone confirm?

  5. A good topo angle for at least the RH variants, complete with dudes at the base and on the tote (pinched from a facebook post)