Central Buttress

15 min uphill
Morning sun
Broken dolerite faces and cracks, up to 100m
Introduction
Central Buttress spans the extensive area between Great Tier and Flange Buttress and is the closest buttress to the Organ Pipes Track. The Arena is an area of single pitch routes at the far left end of Central Buttress where it abuts Great Tier. Routes right of here are on the main face of Central Buttress and comprise climbs of mostly two pitches or more. The routes at the right end of Central Buttress become progressively shorter, culminating at Circus Wall before it merges into Pooch Gully.
Access
To access the Arena, drive to kunanyi summit, walk down to the top of Pipes between Pooch Gully and Teardrop Gully to locate the Arena. Climbs in the Arena are all accessed by abseil.

The main face of Central Buttress is accessed from below from the climbers' carpark. Walk left along the Organ Pipes Track past the access track to Flange Buttress for another 50m, before arriving at a track junction signposted as Central Buttress (GPS MTW040). Head straight up this track past a junction that heads left to Great Tier. After another 20m up the hill the track forks.

Taking the left fork provides access to the base of routes between Improbability Drive and Acid Test. Most of these routes start from Battle Cruiser Ledge, a ramp that rises left of Third Bird and terminates at Linda. For routes that start off this ledge, the rap station at the top of Battle Cruiser provides return access (down the line of Linda) to the left hand end of Battle Cruiser Ledge.

Taking the right fork provides access to the bottom of routes on Kacktus Buttress. For climbs in this area there are rap routes on Peregrine and Remembrance.

For access to the routes on Circus Wall walk down from the summit to locate the top of Pooch Gully. Routes start right of Pooch Gully and are accessed by abseil.

The Arena

The Arena is the conspicuous amphitheatre at the left hand end of Central Buttress high up where it meets Great Tier. Access is from kunanyi summit. Approach as for Upper Teardop Gully (or by walking along the cliffedge from the top of Pooch Gully) to the rusty pipe marking the Upper Teardrop Gully access track. Head down the track until it flattens out, then head left to locate the top of The Arena. Access to the base of the routes is via abseil. Suss out the various rap points from opposite if needed.
★ 1.Menhir40m20 
The wide crack system to the R of the large pillar on the L side of the Arena. Climb the chimney and the ensuing off-width crux. Sounds great doesn't it? Nice climbing follows to the top.
P. Robinson, A. Wilson, Mar 2001.
★ 2.Asterix27m15 
A neat little route located on the south side of the Arena amphitheatre. Viewed from the top of Centurion it is the second north-facing crack line from the L (R of Menhir and L of Gladiator). Abseil off a large bollard to the sassafras bush down below (or the spike just above). Follow the pleasant crack to the top.
P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar 2001.
3.The Den35m16 
The line R of Asterix on south side of the Arena. Watch out for loose rock. Follow the cracks past myrtle tree and sloping pineapple grass ledge, with a crux near top.
P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar 2002.
★ 4.Gladiator35m21 
A distinctive line on the L side of The Arena, broken by a few ledges. Start on a broad sloping ledge at the base of an open corner L of Catacomb. Climb the corner to the first ledge, where an awkward seam and face continues past an alcove to a stance. A thin finger crack past an old peg leads into an easier hand crack, which finishes at a belay ledge with a tree. Double ropes are handy. A short pitch of thrutching up the back leads to the top of the cliff.
N. Deka, T. McKenny, Apr 1990. FFA: D. Rollins, J. Jane, Feb 2013.
★ 5.Catacomb30m17 
The chimney/crack line L of Centurion. Climb the open corner and continue into the tight chimney. Exit out L onto the wall when the chimney becomes a squeeze, and follow the steep crack to the top.
T. McKenny, D. Gardner, May 2001.
★ 6.Centurion30m18 
The prominent crack in the centre of the buttress. A thin crack on the R can be used to avoid the overhanging offwidth crack at the start. Continue up the hand crack to the top.
D. Fife, P. Mackenzie, Feb 1983.
★★ 7.The Spear30m21 
Exciting moments to be had on the prominent hanging pillar R of Centurion. The gear is not the best. Bridge the offwidth corner 5m R of Centurion for 8m to a small roof. Traverse R under this onto the face of the column. Climb the finger crack past a problematic niche, surmount the large flake above, and continue more easily to the top.
D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Dec 1989.
Right of the Spear and left of Obelix is a large 3m wide chimney feature.. Climbing in it is a kind of 3D experience. Circus Maximus is the LH corner. Circus Minimus takes the RH line in the chimney.
★ 8.Circus Maximus 30m 20 
Classical. Up the LH side of the chimney to the bulge (a head torch was used on the first ascent to find gear placements underneath it!) and follow the blank corner (crux), which becomes a finger and thin hand-sized crack. Follow the chimney, which higher up becomes awkward and a little run out to reach a large ledge. Take LH line and avoid weighting the loose blocks at the top too much by carefully chimneying past them.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Mar 2007.
9.Circus Minimus 30m17 
A jolly outing that takes the RH side of the chimney. Climb the crack in the slippery V-chimney to a small roof and chimney L of this to the large ledge. Follow the clean crack system on the R to a bulge, hand jam around it, and climb directly to the top.
P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, 1 Apr 2007. (a suspicious date for a first ascent...)
The next routes are located immediately to the R of the Circus duo in the main Arena amphitheatre. Access is again by abseil (tape). Identifying your route of choice is significantly enhanced by looking across from the opposite side of the amphitheatre.
10.Obelix40m18 
The corner two lines R of The Spear. Climb the chimney and overhang, then follow the corner all the way to the top.
P. Robinson, T. McKenny, Apr 2001.
★★ 11. Legionary35m17 
Continually interesting climbing that is atmospheric on a misty day. The corner line R of Obelix with a dirty start. Double ropes are handy. Climb the line for 5m before moving L of the corner up the short clean crack behind a large flake. When it runs out, move R into the corner for a few metres before climbing the hand crack on the L wall to the overhang. Traverse L out of the corner into the steep, exposed line above. Climb up to the large platform (belay possible) and finish up the short wall as for Caledonian.
P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar 2002.
★ 12.Caledonian Variant45m19 
Start as for Caledonian to the ledge, keep R of the arête for a few metres, then traverse L from the arête to climb a steep and exposed finger crack.
P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar 2002.
13.Caledonian45m16 
Right of Obelix on the RH side of the Arena amphitheatre are two obvious lines.. The far RH line has a short crack leading to a large grassy ledge followed by a curving arête. Climb the L trending arête, keeping just R of it. Above the arête are two short walls.
P. Robinson, T. McKenny, J. McKenny, Feb 2002.
The next four climbs are located on a separate buttresses just R of the main Arena amphitheatre. The base of these climbs is reached by a 50m rap from the large ledge immediately right of Obelix (the same ledge where Caledonian finishes). The abseil finishes to one side of a steep 25m buttress. Watch out for loose blocks on the way down.
14.The Steps25m12 
This route is used as an exit pitch for its companion routes. Starting from the top of the Telopea buttress, follow walls and the ridge to an exposed step across, which leads to the abseil ledge R of Obelix. Watch out for that loose block on the R just below the top.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Jan 2004.
★★ 15.Cheers to Dave30m21 
A tribute to alpine guide Dave Gardner who died in 2003, while guiding clients on New Zealand's Mt. Tasman. A wild position on a narrow arête on the buttress left of Telopea. From the foot of Telopea, climb easily to the thin buttress on the left. The route follows the nose all the way, finishing on an airy perch.
K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jan 2004.
★★ 16.Telopea25m20 
A classic. Straight up the front of the buttress through two bulges, with a steep headwall to finish.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Jan 2004.
★ 17.The Spirit30m19 
Takes the nose of the buttress, followed by the wall on the R. Start 5m below and R of Telopea. Follow the nose until one can move R up the wall via exciting layback moves to a ledge. Climb the wall and crack system just R of the nose to the top.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Jan 2004.

South Central Buttress

Originally known as Starseeker Buttress, this area at ground level is at the left end of Central Buttress. Several routes were put up here in the distant past, most of which are now overgrown and neglected. It's mostly south facing, meaning it gets a lot of shade and thus best in summer.

Access from the Organ Pipes track is via the signposted Central Buttress track, where after walking 70m uphill, the left signposted fork is followed along under the base of buttress towards Great Tier track. Alternatively follow the signposted Great Tier track, where after walking 30m uphill, take the signposted right fork to Central Buttress that leads along under the base of the cliff.

Approaching from the Great Tier track direction, follow the right fork for 50m under a massive triangular overhang to reach the foot of a small sub-buttress directly below a sharp orange arête. The left edge of this arête is aptly named Pillar of Crud. Low down near the base of the buttress is an inscription in white paint 4-1A, the route number from the original 1969 climbing guide! All the routes start from around this point. The early climbs have had few repeat ascents over the past 50 years and most are now loose and thickly vegetated. On that basis their descriptions and grades should be treated with caution.
The first route starts about 5m right of where the Great Tier access track heads up onto the ramp where the Great Tier main wall routes start.
★ 18.Shrapnel23m219Þ ↓ 
This route follows the obvious line of bolts on the prow of a small buttress just right of Great Tier main wall. Layback the pillar for 5m to a ledge, step left climb the face trending right to follow the arête to the top of the buttress. Great climbing, no natural protection required. Originally given 23.
A. Williams, C. Godfrey, Mar 2008.
The next routes start off an awkward ledge up to the right of Shrapnel. To approach, follow the track past Shrapnel and down and around for 10-15m or so until it leads you to a steep gully. Scramble up this to the ledge.
★ 19.Phil's Crack15m18 
The crack on the northern side of the Shrapnel pillar. Pleasant crack climbing, steepening at the top. Follow the line all the way to a small ledge one metre above the Shrapnel anchors. Abseil off.
Phil Robinson, C(B) Rathbone, Feb 2019.
★ 20.Halleluja119m20 
A long and worthwhile trad adventure outing for a warm summer’s day.
1. 17m 18Climb Phil’s Crack on the northern side of the Shrapnel pillar, do not traverse left to the Shrapnel bolts near the top but continue straight up the crack to the next ledge.
2. 22m 17Make your way up to the base of the clean hand crack leading to the top of a pillar. Climb the wall above, first moving right onto the arete then back left to the centre of the wall and a sloper exit (crux).
3.Two alternatives:
30m 19(a) The Welsh Crack. Often wet with lichen. Continue to the vertical wall above split by a technical finger crack, climb this to a ledge and slabs left of the easy corner to a pleasant tussock grass slope. Continue on to the foot of the next buttress.
30m 15(b) Move right to the arete, and around it to climb a wall via a thin crack in the corner. Move left, pull over a large wedged block (care) and climb straight up to the tussock grass slope.
4. 25m 20Telopea, enjoyable climbing up the clean buttress above via two bulges.
5. 25m 12The Steps, follow walls and the ridge to an airy step across leading to the top at the N end of the Arena. Take care to avoid rope drag. Watch out for a loose block on the R just below the top.
Descent. Traverse S across the top of the Arena to Teardrop Gully. Locate the 15m rap anchor, descend and follow the gully down to the Step Tier rap station (2x 40m abseils)
P Robinson, K Robinson, C(B) Rathbone 2019-2021. Pitch 1 (Phil’s Crack) P. Robinson, C(B) Rathbone Feb 2019, pitches 2 and 3a K. and P. Robinson Feb.2021, pitch 3b P. Robinson Dec. 2019, pitch 4 (Telopea) and pitch 5 (The Steps) P. Robinson, K. Robinson Jan. 2004. 1st complete ascent K. Robinson, P. Robinson Feb.2021
★ 21.Empty, Unfilled, Bare20m2410Þ 
Takes the next pillar/buttress right of Shrapnel. A steep start leads to a rest before a fridge hugging crux.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Feb 2019.
The next climb starts just to the left of the toe of the buttress, and takes a deep gulley system to the top.
22.Whose Route100m9 
This is one of the earliest recorded climbs on the Pipes, first climbed prior to 1960. It takes a huge gully system up South Central Buttress and is a bit of mountaineering style fun, as long as its warm and dry. If it's not, you might as well wait until winter to make it truly miserable.
Start on the left of the lowest point of the buttress, probably just to the right of the steep gully used to approach Phil's Crack.
1. 40mNegotiate a series of short steps leading to a broad scrubby ledge.
2. 23mClimb a black recess on the left of a water-scarred wall (Bloodsport) and then follow an obvious gully, which is often wet and slippery.
3. 7mClimb the steep crack past an old peg of unknown origin.
4. 10mContinue via the obvious chimney to a platform near the top of the buttress.
5. 20mMake an exposed step left and ascend 5m to a flake. Descend a metre and continue to traverse left and up to easy ground.
Route re-discovered by J. Elliot, B. Higgins, 1960. Originally climbed by unknown ascensionists prior to that.
★★ 23.Bloodsport20m22 
Takes the featured wall to the right of the second pitch of Whose Route. Approach up the steep gully leading to Phil's Crack, then head right into the Whose Route gully, and up to the base of the wall. Climb the steep featured wall, with gear in the crack on the left hand side. The crux is gaining the thin crack on the right side of the face and placing the first small cam in it - this will probably feel pretty bold onsight. Small cams and double ropes are essential. DBB above the face.
Dave Humphries, Feb 2019 (with pre placed gear).
★ 24.Happy Vibes, Happy Lives40m18-20 
Makes a fun second pitch to Bloodsport. From the Bloodsport rap station, move L past the big boulder, up the wide corner past an old piton, and climb the obvious twin cracks on the face above. At the last little bush in the LH crack/groove, step 2m R to a ledge to avoid the very loose looking shield of rock on the nose of the buttress. Continue up scrubby corner for 10m to the top of the buttress. As of Feb 2023, there is new tat to provide a 40m rap to arrive easily at the Bloodsport rap station.
Zach Sonstegaard and Kat Perndt, Feb 2023

Death Rattle Area

The following climbs are at ground level, accessed the track that links Great Tier track to the Central Buttress track. From the Organ Pipes track head up the Great Tier track for a few metres, then take the right turn. After a small distance at a widening in the track look out for a large overhang about 30m up.
★ 25. Shiver Me Timbers35m17 
The stepped arête south of ‘Death Rattle’, left of ‘The Straight and Narrow’ with an exciting airy wall in its upper half. From the Great Tier track head north at the 1st junction toward Central Buttress for 20m. Ascend a gully on the left for a few metres to a short chimney and wall on the north side of the arête.
1. 20m 15Climb the right wall, not the chimney, for 5m and move left around the corner to the 1st step on the arête which is hidden from below. Up the middle of the short wall above. A less worthwhile alternative is the well protected crack on the left. From the ledge above, climb the next wall to a platform at the foot of the steep arête.
2. 15m 17A shallow rusty piton, likely placed in the 1960s, sticks out to the left below some teetering blocks. Follow the enjoyable, exposed face to the right, carefully avoiding the blocks. Near the top, keep on the arête to finish at two rap bolts high on the right.
P. Robinson, C.(B.) Rathbone, Jan. 2020.
★ 26.The Straight and Narrow33m19 
The middle rib and face under the large overhang, left of Death Rattle. The climb starts 5m from the track at the base of the buttress below and left of two jammed blocks. Follow the centre of the steep rib to ledges at half height and climb directly up the wall above to an awkward V-corner below the overhang. The crux is the wall above the ledge and horizontals with spaced pro. Keep out of cracks to the right. Move left above the V-corner to a DBB.
K. Robinson, P.Robinson, Feb 2019.
27.Mindset34m18 
The wall right of ‘The Straight and Narrow’ and right of the off-width chimney. Start as for TSAN below two jammed blocks. Climb over the blocks and up an easy mossy gully for 10m trending right to a ledge at the foot of a clean buttress. Start in the finger crack on the right and move into the centre of the face after a few metres climbing in the middle to a ledge at 14m. The thin crack on the right can also be climbed at an easier grade and with good protection. The centre is run out. From the ledge move diagonally left under the overhang joining TSAN below the V corner.
K.Robinson, P. Robinson, Feb 2019.
The next climbs all share the same start, at the very foot of the buttress (i.e. it's lowest point) along the track from Great Tier to Central Buttress, and include several shared pitches... if you can find them! The first to be climbed was Sand's Gory (P. Sands, J. Spinks) in 1961 although the exact line can not now be traced with certainty. From the original description it appears to climb up and then right to join a deep, dark, cavernous chimney, capped with a large chockstone, to the left of what is now Linda, and continuing up as for Linda above the chockstone.
28.Death Rattle 42m16 
A modern take on the arête, a direct line which appears to include at least part of the 2nd pitch of Starseeker on "The Tower". Start just to the L of the foot of the small sub-buttress.
1.16 30mClimb the short, angular corner/chimney on the left to the steep arête which is climbed direct on at times dubious rock to an exposed finish. Belay on ledge.
2.15 12mIgnore the leering off width chimney thing above and instead climb the seductive hand crack round on the left, starting behind the hakea bush. Better now the massive rattling block has departed in a cloud of shrapnel. Descent: 42m abseil from sling on tree.
T. McKenny, A. Beech, March 2013.
29.D. F. Variation100m10 
Graded at 10, this route may be somewhat harder. This route climbs up and then right before veering back left high up, crossing over Starseeker to join Whose Route at the foot of the 7m crack on the south side of the buttress. Start just right of the lowest point of Central Buttress.
1. 16mClimb directly up the now loose and vegetated blocks at the toe of the buttress to a substantial ledge (also the first belay of Starseeker).
2. 20mMove easily diagonally and up to the R, to belay at the foot of two chimneys. Easy but scrubby.
3. 10mAscend the LH chimney/crack to a large ledge. (The RH chimney is Sand's Gory)
4. 14mA semi-circular traverse L crossing a deep cleft and Starseeker leads to a wide chimney on the south side of the buttress.
5. 10mClimb the chimney to the prominent chockstones and traverse L to the 7m crack of Whose Route (pitch 3).
6. 30mContinue as for Whose Route (pitches 4 and 5).
M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, May 1962.
30.Starseeker95m16 
Once a "mildly entertaining route" (but now loose and vegetated!) of some variety following a fairly direct line up the buttress. Start on the right (north) side of the very foot of Central Buttress, someway below an orange 18m column – the delightfully named Pillar of Crud.
1. 16mClimb up the loose blocks and vegetation to a large ledge beneath the face of The Pillar of Crud, as for D. F. Variation.
2. 16mCrux. Climb up loose rock and out left on the face of The Pillar of Crud, using holds "carefully".
3. 18mFollow the chimney, moving left at the top to a ledge.
4. 21mClimb up to and sidle left of a blank wall then ascend with some difficulty to a short narrow chimney to join the platform on Whose Route.
5. 24mClimb the obvious chimney (as for Whose Route) to the next platform and then directly to the top. Finish on the ridge leading to the summit.
R. Williams, J. Whelan, Oct 1966.
31.Diddles125m12 
The climb follows a deep and hidden chimney line high on the south side of the Starseeker Buttress, to the left of Improbability Drive. Start as for Starseeker and D. F. Variation, at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb pitches 1, 2, and 3 of D. F. Variation to start.
4. 10mFrom the large ledge move to the obvious chimney in the corner.
5. 20mClimb the deep hidden chimney to the left and belay in a cave.
6. 20mTraverse right onto a chockstone in the right hand chimney. Follow this chimney to a platform, shared with Whose Route.
7. 30mContinue to the top via the chimney.
R. Mansfield, M. Tillema, 1970.
A route by Batten, Tillema and Mansfield in April 1970 (Tuberculosis 140m 14M1), was described in an earlier edition of the guide as starting left of Linda but details are less than definitive.

Below Battle Cruiser Ledge

Below the Battle Cruiser Ledge there is a cluster of small faces with some short quality sport routes. From the Great Tier track take the right fork along the signposted link track towards Central Buttress until directly under the lowest point of the buttress, below the black corner of Battle Cruiser. About 20m further on, a track leads up left through steep bush to the faces. The track passes under the base of the Three Stooges and continues left to a small face at the far left end of the track. Alternatively approach via the Central Buttress track and head up to Battle Cruiser ledge. Rap in from the obvious rap station below Battle Cruiser to the base of Three Stooges (20m).
32.Disability12m17 
The flakey face just left of Bad Back at the far left end of the access track. There is OK gear in the vertical then horizontal cracks.
J. Nermut, D. Humphries, Apr 2014.
33.Bad Back12m185Þ 
The bolted face to the right of the dirty crack. Climb either to the L or R of the bolts.
J. Nermut, D. Humphries, Apr 2014.
To the right of Bad Back on the next face is another, slightly longer bolted route.
★ 34.The Three Stooges20m187Þ  
A bit of fun. Climb the middle of the face, moving right near the top. Mantle with style, and move back left to finish up the left hand arête. Rap off (20m).
The Three Stooges aka B. Bull, T. McKenny and S. Scott, Nov 2015.
35.The Outsider 20m14 
The crack system immediately right of The Three Stooges has been cleaned, creating an easily accessible beginner’s trad lead.
Directly up easy cracks to the short and steep clean hand crack at the top. Jam and exit left when the crack runs out.
Belay/rap as for the Three Stooges.
P. Robinson, G. Dixon, Nov 2017.
A small track about 20m to the right of the last climb leads to a steep pillar of rock.
★ 36.Living the Dream 12m184Þ 
A hard bouldery start up and right and then follow the vertical arête above. DBB.
M. Bailey, B. Bull, D. Bruce and T. McKenny, Dec 2015.

Battle Cruiser Ledge

With the exception of Linda, routes between Five Easy Pieces and Mephistopheles are all accessed from Battle Cruiser Ledge. To access the ledge, take the signposted Central Buttress track uphill past the signposted Great Tier link track to the next junction. Take the left fork along under the buttress before scrambling up steeply to gain the ledge. Battle Cruiser Ledge continues in a rising traverse left that ends overlooking the Linda chimney.

Descent: There are several rap stations here.
1. The top of Improbability Drive (1x 50m to Linda chockstone, 1x 25m to Battle Cruiser ledge)

2. Three on battlecruiser.
- At the end of the first pitch (Major Tom lower-off - 28 m to ground).
- Take the first rap station you encounter on battlecruiser's second pitch (ring and chain) to get back down to the ground (55 m).
- Keep going up the arete above on the second pitch to reach the top rap-station (two staples) and head down Linda (1 x 50m to Linda chockstone, 1 x 25m to the left end of Battle Cruiser ledge). Note, to avoid a rope jam on the 50m pitch, run the abseil rope down the chimney. Use this rap-station to access Improbability Drive.

3. Two further rap stations (lower offs) are found on Cognitive Dissonance (28m) and Thesaurus (24m).
★★ 37.Five Easy Pieces15m226Þ 
Ascends the black and white streaked red wall capped by overhangs on the small buttress left of the Linda chimney. Belay at the far left end of Battle Cruiser ledge, below the start of Starship Trooper (alternatively, there is a belay anchor at the bottom of the route). Step left across the Linda chimney and climb the steep face through the blind corner and overhang, finishing at a DBB on the small ledge above.
D. Stephenson, N. Smith, April 2019.
★★★ 38.Improbability Drive45m20↓ 
Succulent and sensuous! Superb climbing up the steep south facing buttress L of Linda. The start is a long way up the cliff; there are two options for getting to it:
a) Start from the LH end of Battle Cruiser Ledge overlooking Linda. Climb the Linda chimney for one pitch (up past the lower rap station) to a belay on the highest large ledge on the L wall. This approach is currently a bit vegetated.
b) Recommended - Climb Battle Cruiser to the top rap-station (or walk in from above) and then use its rap (into the "Linda" zone) to reach the ledge (with a bit of diagonal rapping, to climbers left).
1. 15mMake an improbable step around to the L side of the arête and climb straight up the committing thin flake to belay on a small ledge. This pitch can also be started from the ledge 10m below.
2. 30mClimb the hand crack to where it blanks out, then head R to face holds and up staying left of the arete (crux). Continue up the delicious twin crack system to belay at the pinnacle summit.
Descent: rap-station off the summit pinnacle (50m) to the Linda chockstone (DBB). Then the 25m abseil back to the Battle Cruiser ledge.
S. Parsons, D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982.
★ 39.Organic Man35m20↓ 
Takes the steep wall L of Linda. Start as for Improbability Drive.
1. 15mClimb straight up the face R of the arête until it is possible to step around the L side of the arête onto a ledge. Belay here (as for Improbability Drive).
2. 20mStep back around the arête and continue up the face R of the arête until forced to move L again into Improbability Drive. Descent as for Improbability Drive.
E. Peacock, G. Cooper, Nov 1982.
40.Linda125m15↓ 
The original finish is recommended. Linda starts at the base of the buttress at an obvious gully-line on the R of the south face, which contains a huge chock stone at 30m.
1. 30mFrom ground level climb straight up the wall to belay atop the large chockstone.
2. 30mUp the chimney and take the RH crack to belay at the base of a huge corner.
3a. 30m 15Original finish: Climb the R wall for 5m then step R. Continue up to a small ledge, then straight up for 6m (crux). Step R onto the arête and belay 5m higher, around the corner.
3b. 30m 18Linda Direct: Follow the chimney to the L of the huge corner, which becomes offwidth and poorly protected.
3c. 30m 15Linda Chimney: Climb the R wall for 5m, then step R and climb up to a ledge. Continue up the chimney.
4. 35mEasily to the top.
J. Moore, J. Veasey, Jan 1968. (3b): K. Prinz, L. Wood, A. Bowden, 1975.
★ 41.Hyperspace35m20↓ 
A well-protected and quality alternative to the first pitch of Starship Trooper, taking the steep RH wall of the Linda chimney. From the LH end of Battle Cruiser Ledge step around the arête into the chimney. Climb up and into the crack on the R wall to an overhang, which is passed on the L. Move back R and continue up to belay as for Starship Trooper pitch 2..
N. Deka, D. Bruce, D. Batten, Mar 1988.
★★ 42.Starship Trooper74m22↓ 
A thoughtful and subtle route up the arête left of Battle Cruiser, provides an excellent first pitch to Space Cowboy.
1. 28m 20Climb onto a small ledge 4m left of Battle Cruiser. Step left and follow the thin groove line just right of the arête to the same belay as Battle Cruiser. Committing, with small wire and cam placements.
2. 46m 22Step around the left hand side of the arête and follow the thin cracks to a ledge near the arête. Continue up and abseil as for Battle Cruiser.
K. Carrigan, M. Law, 1978.
43.Major Tom28 m2211Þ 
Face climb right of pitch one of Starship Trooper. Continuously interesting climbing to a lower off (28 m).
Roger Parkyn, Feb 2022.
★★★ 44.Space Cowboy46m20↓ 
Superb direct version of Battle Cruisers second pitch. Climb directly above the belay and follow the shallow left-facing corner until you can follow the flake out left and up to a spectacular rest below a small rooflet. Continue straight up the arête (crux), or slightly easier, step right and climb up a short wall to join Battle Cruiser at the diagonal trending flake. Continue up the rest of Battle Cruiser to the rap station.
D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Mar 1989.
★★★ 45.Battle Cruiser68m18↓ 
Both pitches are magnificent. Shares the same start as Twice, at the black streaked corner 6m left of Faust.
1. 28m 18A tough pitch at the grade. Climb the corner to the roof, continue through it via the left hand line and follow the crack above (crux). Belay on a ledge just left of an outward leaning block (DBB).
2. 40m 17Step right into the corner of Twice and climb up follow this until a steep, diagonal flake system leads out left towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up the groove and cracks right of the arête to reach the first rap-station (55 m to ground), or as per the original line keep going up the arete to reach a second rap station obscured behind a group of myrtle trees (50m to Linda chockstone, 25m to Battle Cruiser ledge - pull rope through chimney on 50 m abseil to avoid a rope jam).
M. Law, D. Bowman, 1978.
★ 46.Once28m20↓ 
A fine route that makes a good first pitch to Space Cowboy. Start 2m right of Battle Cruiser and climb the thoughtful thin crack and wall to a sloping ledge below the roof. Layback and finger jam straight through it (crux), then continue up to belay as for Battle Cruiser.
M. Law, K. Carrigan, 1978.
★ 47.Twice90m18↓ 
The original line on this part of the cliff. Start as for Battle Cruiser at the black streaked corner 6m left of Faust. Pitch 1 originally ended to belay in Faust then traversed back left to the Pitch 1 Battlecruiser belay - the described pitches are much better and less inconvenient.
1. 34mClimb up Battlecruiser or Once until 2m below the roof and step right to the sloping ledge. Follow the short corner right of the roof then traverse left to belay in the large corner (or at Battlecruiser DBB).
2. 46mMove straight up the corner through the overhangs to the Battle Cruiser rap station.
I. Lewis, L. Closs, Sep 1973.
48.Thrice85m15↓ 
An alternative start to Faust that ascends the ephemeral flake system between Once and Faust.
1. 45mClimb carefully up past a seriously loose flake at 4m then up a short corner above. Ascend the short wall and after approximately 25m step right into Faust. Climb past needle bush, through the overhang to the belay ledge on Faust.
2. 40mContinue as for the second pitch of Faust.
G. Cooper, Pete Steane, 1987.
49.Bumps and Angles60m23↓ 
Are you feeling bold? This route follows the thin line up the face between Faust and Twice. Either step out left of the corner chimney of Faust (approx 30m up pitch 1) and up the line or climb the line directly through both the overlaps. Small wires constitute protection and it is unknown whether the route continues straight up or veers right back into Faust. Rap anchors as for Battle Cruiser.
P. Robbins, 1990.
★★ 50.Faust80m16↓ 
Ready to sell your soul in the search for pleasure? Faust starts up the left facing chimney corner in the middle of the buttress. This old school chimney leads to some fabulous climbing.
1. 52mUp the chimney/corner past a hakea bush at 25m. Climb up and out through the overhang, then up the cramped chimney to a ledge. Climb the thought provoking wide crack (#4 Camalot is handy) to a belay ledge.
2. 28mClimb 2m to the next ledge then up the steep classy corner to a ledge and bollard belay where a left pointing arrow is etched into the rock. Descent: From the arrow traverse left and down a vegetated trough for 10m to reach the rap station at top of Battle Cruiser.
J. Moore, R. Williams, Mar 1967.
★ 51.Cognitive Dissonance28m2212Þ 
The line up the face and arête between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancy crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20.
J. Nermut, D. Humphries, Jan 2015.
★★ 52.Thesaurus24m2110Þ 
Immediately right of Cognitive Dissonance. Steep start, then keep following the line of U's.
Roger & James Parkyn, Heather & Nick Hancock, May 2016.
★★ 53.Spartan Ethics100m20 
Sustained and consistent. An inverted small L-shaped roof/flake marks the start of this route.
1. 30mClimb a shallow corner to the small roof at 5m, which is turned on the L. Ascend a series of walls up and R to a ledge.
2. 35mClimb onto the block on the L and then up a thin crack to a small tree. Step back R and jam the crack to the top, belaying at some blocks near the Faust corner.
3. 35mContinue up the line of shallow corners on the upper wall R of Faust to a small ledge. Head up and L over a bulge into a hanging corner and continue to the top.
Descend by first climbing up the short rock step behind where the route finishes, and then heading L and down a vegetated ramp with some down climbing sections, circling around to the Battle Cruise rap station from above.
(1) S. Parsons, D. Bowman, Dec 1979. (2) D. Bowman, R. Wells, Feb 1978. (3) N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Apr 1988.
★ 54.Youth With a Mission70m20↓ 
A steep and strenuous start leads to a curious crack line. 2m right of Spartan Ethics is a crack line up the wall.
1. 27m 20Wade through scrub for 3m to the base of the wall. Up the hand crack which thins (crux), then step right to a flake when the crack falters and climb up this and over the top. Continue up the wall above to a spacious belay ledge.
2. 35m 17Mantle above the belay to gain the base of the curious crack line. Climb past a wobbly wafer and follow the line through a small roof to a ledge. Continue up the crack for another 3m before hand traversing right into Mephistopheles. Climb this for 3m and belay.
3. 8mFrom the end of the hand traverse, continue traversing R around the arête and down slightly to the first belay of Third Bird. Rap station off to the right (48m).
(1) P. Steane, Mar 1996. (2) P. Cullen, D. Bowen, M. Burton, Feb 1982.
55.Mephistopheles105m16 
Bring your flame-thrower or a chainsaw, and don't be surprised to meet Tarzan swinging through the trees. Follows the scrub-laden chute that is accessed from Battle Cruiser Ledge, right of Youth with a Mission.
1. 20mClimb the chute to a ledge.
2. 20mContinue up the line to a belay where the chimney eases to a cleft with a sloping back.
3. 25mClimb the cleft and chimney to a large ledge.
4. 40mClimb the chimney on the left for 8m, negotiate the overhang, and continue up the face via a crack to the top.
J. Moore, R. Williams, Apr 1967.

Third Bird Area

Routes between Third Bird and Heat are accessed from a side track en route to Battle Cruiser Ledge. Follow the Central Buttress track uphill past the signposted Great Tier link track to the next junction. Take the left fork as for Battle Cruiser Ledge, but after 15m turn right up a side track. that leads to a steep scramble equipped with a hawser-laid grab sling. At the top, an in-situ stone bench resides under the start of Third Bird. To access routes further right, follow the rough trail below the climbs. Descent from Third Bird and companion lines is via the Third Bird rap station (1 x 32m; 1 x 48m).
★★★ 56.Third Bird80m18↓ 
A reputation for quality and difficulty that is well deserved. Follows the skyrocketing crack line through a small roof up the middle of the buttress and starts at an in-situ belay bench. There is a story behind the name. "Two crows skimmed by the crag lower down. 'Hey Lew - two black birds.' He looked out at them and nodded. 'Three black birds is bad luck isn't it?' I called down. He shrugged. Seconds later a third crow sailed effortlessly past us. 'Hey Lew!' He looked up. I pointed at the gliding bird. 'Third bird!' "
1. 48m 16Climb the right hand side of the subsidiary pillar then up the line to the top of a small pinnacle. Climb past an in-situ knife blade and up the hand crack to belay on a large ledge 8m below the roof (U-bolt rap station at right hand end).
2. 32m 18Up the line and jam through the roof to the ledge (crux). Negotiate the thin crack and bulge above and continue up to belay at a pillar with DBB. Descend from here (1 x 32m and 1 x 48m).
I. Lewis, L. Closs, Aug. 1973.
57.Infidel28m21 
Thought provoking pitch on the black streaked wall between Third Bird and Banana Republic. Somebody has previously drilled holes for bolts for a direct line but it has bomber though slightly spaced gear if you are willing to look laterally for it. Start 2m right of Third Bird behind the tree and make an unprotected rising traverse right on delicate rock to the top of the initial Banana Republic hand crack (before it opens out into the niche) or climb the crack direct. Traverse back left onto the black streaked face. Climb up face and rock steps above to belay at single U-bolt. Finish up Banana Republic or rap off.
S. Bischoff, T. O'Sullivan, April 2012.
58.Banana Republic100m18 
Advanced route finding right of Third Bird. Don't forget your compass.
1.Climb the hand cracks on the wall several metres right of Third Bird, with some interesting moves through the niche above, to a belay on a scrubby ledge at single U-bolt.
2.Move left and climb the shallow corners and flakes just right of Third Bird, to belay at the rap anchors on the ledge below the overhang.
3.Move back right and continue up the wide cracks above to the top, taking care not to stray onto Third Bird. Descent: abseil as for Third Bird, or traverse left and down the scrubby corner/gully to the Battle Cruiser rap anchors.
D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.
★★ 59.Butt Funky95m20↓ 
A sustained and energy sapping second pitch that offers excellent climbing. Pockets of vegetation towards the top of the first pitch are awaiting the services of a benevolent gardener.
1. 45m 18Climb the prominent fist crack about 25 metres right of Third Bird, below and slightly left of the prominent arête high above. Af the top of the fist crack continue up through a zone of vegetation for 15m to belay on a ledge left of the base of the arête. This pitch was once uniquely named, 'I'm No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me.'
2. 50m 20Up the face just left of the arête for 15m (crux). Step around the arête to a small ledge and then proceed up the crack above. Stay just right of the arête, passing the roof on your left and climb to the top. Descend using the Acid Test rap stations.
(1) P. Cullen, D. Bowman, M. Burton, Feb 1982. (2) D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1990.
★ 60.High Flyers42m18↓ 
Starts high up on the buttress between Acid Test and Butt Funky. Climb pitchs 1 and 2 of Acid Test to start. All up including High Flyers, this gives four reasonable pitches (112m total).
1. 33m 16Follow the line directly above two abseil bolts at the top of pitch two of Acid Test. Pleasant climbing with an excellent and steep hand crack at the top.
2. 9m 18The LH side of the headwall following thin cracks to rap station. Abseil off as for Acid Test rap stations.
P. Robinson, T. McKenny (alt.), Apr 2005.
★★ 61.Acid Test115m20↓ 
Inspired perhaps by the proposed 2012 forestry peace deal, this route has undergone a severe tidy up and is now remarkably cleaner in both vegetation and loose rock. Located 2m R of the Butt Funky fist crack, 2m L of a deep chimney.
1. 30m 18Climb up the crack and wall to a hakea tree, then from the block behind the tree climb the steep crack/flake then up R on easier ground to a double U-bolt belay.
2a. 40m 19Climb up and then R onto the buttress and follow the weakness directly up the middle of the face (well protected) to a U-bolt belay.
2b. 15m 19Alternatively, step across R directly from belay, over the top of the chimney, and climb steep but interesting thin crack up the arête, staying out of the chimney to the R. From a ledge at 10m either move L into Acid Test or make a difficult move up and R to the U-bolt belay on Heat (45m rap to bottom).
3. 40m 20Up the crack on the R to the buttress above. Follow a thin line up the buttress until one can step L around the arête to a 6m long crack. At the top of this move back R and climb the excellent face above to a large ledge.
4. 5mUp the wall above to a rap station. Three rap stations provide safe descent. The final station is directly on the wall below the start of pitch 2 and is out of view until virtually on top of it.
G. Phillips, D. Fife, Apr 1996. Pitch 2b alternative: T. McKenny, J. Nermut, March 2013.
★★ 62.Heat103m21Þ 
An interesting sport climb that takes a series of distinct buttresses separated by ledges all the way to the top. Start down to the right of Acid Test on the next buttress, at the lowest point.
1. 18m 21Up the face fairly easily until interrupted by the crux between the 3rd and 5th bolts. Continue up to a large ledge and DBB. 7 bolts.
2. 28m 21Step right from the belay into the black streak. Great climbing up that until the streak runs out, then head to the left hand side of the pillar to a ledge and climb the arete above to finish at a DBB. 11 bolts.
3. 32m 20Climb the arete straight up from the belay for 20m past 7 bolts to a large ledge, where you can see the Acid Test DBB on the wall to the left. And now for an intermission - continue up Acid Test for 12m, heading right and aiming for the bottom of the right hand arete of the large buttress above, where you will find a DBB. Take a few slings or medium sized pieces for this section, which is easy but not bolted.
4. 25m 21Straight up the steep and sustained arete, 10 bolts to DBB.
Rap down in either 2 or 4 abseils.
D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Mar 2013 & Jan 2014.
The following routes start at a very vegetated chimney reached by continuing along the base of the cliff right of Heat or by traversing left from Kacktus Buttress on a track under the base of the cliff
★★ 63.Wedgetail28m2212Þ 
The orange arete to the left of Transfusion, flanked by greenery. Start 5m up to the right of Heat. Sustained climbing on edges and flakes to the top of the pillar.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Mar 2014.
64.Transfusion119m13 
Starts on the left hand side of Kacktus Buttress in a chimney with a huge chock stone at 26m. One of the oldest climbs on the Pipes, with the original painted numbers, 4-8, from the 1969 guide still visible on the rock. Old fashioned climbing in a deep, dark chimney - originally graded Hard V Diff (10)!
1a. 26mClimb and scrub-bash past the initial bushes to belay on the huge chockstone. Above the trees the line is relatively clean.
1b. 26m.17An alternative and possibly even less attractive variant has been added up the vegetated wall on the R . Start a couple of metres R of chimney and climb through the bulge to the steep wall above with a surprisingly thoughtful finish at the DBB on Peregrine. Climb back L and down to top of chockstone.
2. 30mEasy chimney for 16m, then narrows. Face R and thrutch up past 2 chockstones, and belay in cave just under 2 large diagonal chockstones.
3. 27mCrux. Thread way up between chockstones until chimney fades out into 2 cracks. Jam and climb up L crack for 6m, then step into R one and climb to large ledge.
4. 36mThis is the top pitch of Spink’s Gory (route 4-9 in the 1969 Guide). Climb straight up V shaped chimney after entering it from the R. Cross ledge trending R and climb chimney until able to exit on the L.
T. Costigan, A. Keller, Mar 1968. Pitch 1a T. McKenny, J. Nermut, Jan 2014.
65.Chicken Run120m12 
A major botanical excursion. Shares the same first pitch as Transfusion in a chimney with a huge chock stone at 26m.
1. 26mAs for Transfusion. Up awkwardly past the bushes to belay on the huge chockstone.
2. 21mTraverse R across a ledge and continue past the Peregrine pitch 1 anchor and through the scrub up to the base of an obvious corner.
3. 15mUp the crack to belay on a large ledge.
4. 60mScrubby walls and cracks lead to the top.
M. Tillema, P. McHugh, 1970.

Kacktus Buttress

Kacktus Buttress forms the right hand side of Central Buttress and is the first major feature left of Pooch Gully. All routes in this section of Central Buttress start at ground level and finish on top of the buttress, which is around 50m high (with the exception of Roast Chicken). To access the Kacktus Buttress, take the signposted Central Buttress track uphill past the signposted Great Tier link track to the next junction. Take the right fork and continue straight uphill to meet the base of the cliff at Kacktus Buttress. Descent is by the Peregrine or Remembrance rap stations.
★★ 66.Peregrine48m23Þ  
Start 5m down and L from Roast Chicken and Remembrance.
1. 28m 20A back-to-basics pitch that starts with some hollow flakes, then some nice face climbing, until you end up on a ledge with a Hakea. From here do a move around left to find the belay. A small cam or wire adds some extra protection for the last move. 9 bolts.
2. 20m 23Get what you came for - step L and climb the great technical arête. 10 bolts.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut (alt), Feb 2013.
★ 67.Roast Chicken120m14 
A direct start to Chicken Run that avoids the trip into the rainforest, but still quite vegetated past the first pitch. Starts at the LH crack line on the front of the buttress just L of Remembrance.
1. 20mClimb up past two small chockstones to a ledge on the L.
2. 40mClimb a minor overhang and continue up the line until it joins the foot of pitch 3 of Chicken Run at the corner. Continue up this and belay.
3. 60mAs for pitch 4 of Chicken Run.
P. Robinson, R. Mansfield, Dec 1980.
★★ 68.Remembrance45m21Þ 
A great route up the left side of the Pugnacious wall.
1. 15m 20Start just R of Roast Chicken. Climb the flakey wall to the bulge at 8m, which is quite a bit harder if you don't use the edge of Roast Chicken. Head R and up to gingerly climb up over the huge flake to the belay. 7 bolts.
2. 30m 21Up the wall from the belay to gain the arête at the fourth bolt. Excellent continuous face and arête climbing to DBB at the top. 13 bolts.
Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Dec 2012.
★★ 69.V17m268Þ 
A fun little sport climb starting 5m R of Remembrance and climbing to the same anchor. Climb up and into shallow R facing corner, continue up to steep bulge. Jugs lead to good side-pulls on the face above. Head up and R before stepping back L to lower-off. Was originally 25, now 26 since a hold broke off. Slightly trickier if you are short.
S. Young, Jan 2013. Re-ascended in its more broken form by J. Trainer, 2015.
★★ 70.Pugnacious50m22↓ 
An exquisite single pitch trad route that takes a line up the centre of the steep wall it shares with Remembrance. Break L out of Rooster from below the first overhang, and follow the curving line of thin layaways and underclings, finishing up the open corner / crack system in the middle of the face. Descent: Remembrance rap station on the LH end of the pillar (45m).
A. Herington, S. Scott, Pete Steane, Feb 1990.
★ 71.Rooster45m14↓ 
Takes the chimney line immediately R of Pugnacious wall, marked by a dark roof a few metres up. Start under the roof, after scrambling carefully up into a cave. Climb up through several bulges, avoiding the last vegetated roof either to the R or out to the L. Continue to the notch at 35m, step L and continue up the groove and arête past the small hakea. Descent: Remembrance rap station (45m).
P. Robinson, C. Rathbone, Jan 1981. Direct finish: T. McKenny, C. Walch, Mar 2005.
★★ 72.Oopsy Daisy 40m23 
Sustained climbing up the fused corners to the left of Kactus. Start as for Kactus Direct (small wires). Climb to the horizontal break (cams and wires), then trend left and up the fused corners. When the corners finish step left onto the south face and head for the top. The gear for this route includes:
• set of cams from .1 to .5 cams
• Set small wires
• 3x 30cm quick draws
• 12x quick draws
G. Phillips and J. Breshnehan, 2014.
★★ 73.Kacktus40m20↓ 
Follows the front face of the pillar right of Rooster. This is a serious lead, with spaced gear and several sections where a fail is inadvisable. The climbing is good though, and is more than enjoyable if you have a few grades up your sleeve. Start at the very base of the pillar, 3m right of a detached sub-pillar. Climb the thin crack to ledge then traverse left 2m. Climb the face and flakes above (keeping to the right of the fused corners) to a ledge. Continue past ledges and then with difficulty past a small hollow flake on the left, directly up a thin crack to easier but not trivial ground above. Step left and belay on the Oopsy Daisy anchors (35 m rap to groound).
D. Fife, P. Cullen, Dec 1987. Direct start/finish: T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Feb 2005.
74.Alpine Style22m208Þ 
This route takes an orange face around the back of Kacktus Buttress that is most easily visible and accessible from Princess and Nefarious. A short scramble leads up to the start. Manky at the start, then cruxy face climbing up higher.
D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Jan 2015.

Circus Wall

Pooch Gully marks the RH end of Central Buttress where it meets Flange Buttress. High up on the LHS of Pooch Gully as viewed from the base of cliff, is Circus Wall, a large reddish wall with a prominent line up through an inverted L-shaped crack. This route is Arthur's Circus. Routes on this wall are accessed from the mountain summit and all are 60m or less in length.

Access, From the summit walk down to the top of the cliff and and the patch of snow gums. Follow the cliff line around to the R as viewed by looking towards Hobart, past Pooch Gully still along the cliff tops to the start of Circus Wall.
Alternate Access, It is possible to access Circus Wall from the top of the 3rd pitch of Heat scramble right on a bushy ledge.

For routes between High Wire and Double Trouble Triple Treat descend to a prominent cairn that marks the top of Arthur's Circus. From here, rig an anchor and rap 50m to the base.

Further to the R as viewed looking towards Hobart is a short buttress with a small overhang. Scotch Mist and its companion line are found here, topped by a combined finishing pitch. Both routes are best done as two pitches. Abseil from a point just R of On the Road Again.

75.Scotch Mist30m17 
1. 20mClimb the face around the corner, L of the overhang. When it blanks out go up the R arête for 3m until one can move back onto the face. Mantelshelf onto a ledge and continue to a large platform.
2. 10mStraight-ahead with a finger crack on the L, followed by easier ground.
K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Feb 2009.
76.Faith, Hope and Deliverance30m17 
The small overhang R of Scotch Mist.
1. 20mUp through the overhang to a large flake and follow short walls to the large platform.
2. 10mAs for Scotch Mist.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Feb 2009.
★★ 77.On the Road Again55m17/19 
A pleasant wall climb which starts halfway up the first pitch of High Wire. Abseil in as for High Wire, a 50m rope is just enough with the stretch.
1. 42mClimb approximately 20m of High Wire, to just past the crux arete (18/19), and move onto the L wall. Climb just L of the nose, keeping clear of the blocks to the L, and go straight up the middle of the wall (17) to the base of a hand crack. Follow this to the ledge.
2. 13mAs for High Wire.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 1 Feb 2009.
★★ 78.High Wire55m19 
Clean and varied climbing on the S buttress which has a huge diedre in the upper half. Start at a hand crack in the lower face.
1. 42mClimb the crack which splits the aesthetic clean wall to a challenging exit onto the ledge. Exciting moves up the nose (crux) to the base of the diedre. Pleasant and straightforward climbing follows. Move onto the L face a few metres below the top and belay on the platform.
2. 13mTraverse L and up easily to finish.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 24 May 2008.
79.Clowning Around60m18 
The hand crack 15m L of Arthur's Circus.
1.Climb the crack past an offwidth section to some ledges, then move up the shallow corner and wall above to belay on the R, adjacent to the gully.
2.Up the awkward overhang, and then back L and up the face to the top.
N. Deka, T. McKenny, Mar 1988.
80.What a Circus58m19 
Like one of those old time ventures. The big line L of Centre Stage. Abseil 55-60m to the start of a corner chimney.
1. 24m 17Up the corner to a large flake, passing it on the R. Continue up, passing the tea tree easily to a bulge split by a wide crack on the R. Climb the crack with some difficulty and continue to the ledge.
2. 20m 16Climb the pleasant thin crack on the L and directly over the block at the top to exit on a large ledge. Up the step and follow the clean line on the L to the bushy ledge shared by Centre Stage and Circus Taz.
3. 14m 19The inviting wide crack on the L, which becomes offwidth (crux). You’ve guessed it, a #4 Camalot comes in handy.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Apr 2008.
The next two climbs are located L of Circus Taz and are accessed by abseiling down Circus Taz (all the way down for Clown Face or about 35m down for the ledge at the start of Centre Stage). Alternatively the rap station for Arthur's Circus works well (and avoids the ledge and bushes at the top of CS)
★★ 81.Clown Face20m239Þ ↓ 
A classy face of orange rock in a great location. Nice climbing too. Starts at "ground" level (about 45m from the top) and finishes at the Centre Stage start-ledge. The crux is passing the bulge near BR #7.
R. Parkyn, D. Rollins, Oct 2012.
★★ 82.Centre Stage 20m 18  
A hidden gem. The clean finger crack splits the wall L of Circus Taz and finishes on the large bushy ledge. Layback and finger jam to your heart's content. Sustained and good fun. Exit by climbing pitch 3 of Circus Taz. "A Phil Robinson classic which may even be enjoyed by the masses!" quoth Kim.
P.Robinson, K. Robinson, Apr 2007.
★ 83.Circus Taz60m18 
The chimney and L-facing corner L of Arthur's Circus.
1. 26mFollow the chimney to the overhang (crux). Climb through this and follow the crack to a ledge on the L at the foot of a corner.
2. 22mFollow the corner to a large bushy ledge.
3. 12mFrom R end of ledge, up past awkward blocks to the top.
P. Robinson, A. Beech, May 2004.
★★ 84.Circus Interruptus20m216Þ ↓ 
A cute pitch that follows the middle part of the arête R of Circus Taz, starting at the Centre Stage belay ledge. Crank through the lower bulge on jugs then climb the beautiful arête and face above. The crux is near the top. From the belay it is possible to swing across L into Circus Taz and join "All The Way" (trad gear not needed).
R. Parkyn, D. Rollins, Oct 2012.
★ 85.All The Way15m20 
Cranky stuff; follow the cracks on the wall left of the arete. U's allow it to be climbed as a "sport" extension to Circus Interruptus: from the top of that climb, lay off the blunt arete and stem across to Circus Taz, which is followed briefly to the large ledge where this climb starts (i.e. at the top of Centre Stage).
Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni. Apr 2017.
★★ 86.Arthur's Circus55m18 
A hard crack to start. Locate the base of the reddish wall immediately below the inverted L-shaped crack. Start at the extreme RH end of a large scrubby ledge, below the obvious jam-crack.
1. 15mCrux, Up the fist crack to an obvious square-cut ledge, then traverse L for 3m to a stance below an off-width crack.
2. 40mClimb the corner on the RH side of the offwidth to the detached flake. Squeeze into the chimney, move L to the crack, and continue to the top, going inside where necessary.
L. Wood, C. Ditto Rathbone, Dec 1976.
★ 87.Line Tamer50m19 
A sky-rocketing crack up a great natural line.
Climb the fist crack (as for Arthur's Circus) for 10m to the square cut ledge (where Arthur's Circus traverses L) and continue straight up through a bulge and a 2m off-width section (crux)
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Nov 2004.
★ 88.Polymorpha35m18 
Varied crack climbing in a clean corner at the far R of Circus Wall. Start as for Double Trouble. 1. 35m. A fist jam to start, then move up the crack system to the Lomatia shrub. Climb steeply past this to a ledge and up to a finger crack (crux), then climb the wall with a flake on the L and chimney on the R to a tricky exit onto a slab. Follow ledges to L and finish directly up the 3m boulder.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, A. Kuylaars, May 2011.
89.Double Trouble or Triple Treat 37m17 
A traverse, a wall and cracks with a few perched blocks on the way. The pillar at the RH end of Circus Wall 4m R of Line Tamer. Abseil in to a block at the bottom of the corner at the far R of Circus Wall. Climb 4m up the L edge of the wall to gain a hand traverse without footholds. Place some gear and head R without hesitation, for 4m to the nose. Steeply up the nose until one can move to easier ground (a belay here would avoid rope drag). Climb gently over two large stacked blocks just R of the nose to hand cracks and move carefully past a loose flake to the top of the pillar, joining Polymorpha for the last few metres.
P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Jan. 2012.
A little further R of Circus Wall proper in Upper Pooch Gully is Euphrasia:
90.Euphrasia45m18 
A pleasant route following various short steep cracks on the nose of the buttress immediately south of upper Flange Buttress, approx. 15m R of Circus Wall. Abseil (50m rope) into the depths of Pooch Gully using the U bolts on the sloping boulder at the top of Flange Buttress (GPS MTW170).
1. 30m 17Climb the corner for a few metres until one can hand traverse L onto a ledge on the arête. Follow the arête past a number of widish cracks using mantel shelves and layaways rather than jams. Finish with an awkward exit, taking care not to touch the block at the top. Belay on a large ledge.
2. 15m 18Climb past two shelves and follow the steep, widening crack system to the top. Keep out of the V-chimney by bridging and using a layaway on the R wall.
P. Robinson, K. Robinson, Jan 2014.
91.Diemenica45m18 
The wall R of Euphrasia split by a hidden crack.
Climb the corner for a few metres and the crack in the L wall to a ledge R of Euphrasia, joining back into Euphrasia for the last 10m.
K.Robinson, C.Hewer, Jan. 2014
 
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  1. Domhnall Brannigan

    Did the little cluster of bolted 18s below Battle Cruiser Ledge today - a fun group of routes, kudos to those of you out there putting up moderate sport routes for us mere mortals!

     

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