Roches Beach bouldering

	5-10 min
	All day
	Dolerite

Access

Drive along the Acton Park Rd (either from Lauderdale or Acton Park) until it meets the Roches Beach Rd. Turn and drive along Roches Beach Rd then turn left onto Nowra. Drive along Nowra for 150m then turn right onto Kirra Rd. Parking is at the end of Kirra Rd where the Tangara trail can be accessed by a track beside the last property.

Walk along the Tangara trail until you can walk down to a small beach. The problems are around from the Northern end of the beach. The walk from the car is about 5 minutes.

GPS

Description	UTM Zone	UTM Easting	UTM Northing	Lat	Long
Parking	55G	541197	5252291	-42.88087	147.50446
Main area	55G	541559	5252467	-42.87926	147.50888
Block Area	55G	541595	5252539	-42.87861	147.50931

Show in Google Earth

The Main Area

The main area comprises a grouping of slabs, block and steeper cave area.

1.

V0

(Stand)

2.

V1

(SDS)

3.

VE

(Stand)

4.

VE

(Stand)

5.

VE

(Stand)

6.

VE

(Stand)

7.

Double Dyno

V0

(SDS)

★★ 8.

Arete

VE

(SDS)

9.

V0

(SDS)

10.

V0

(SDS)

11.

V1

(SDS)

12.

VE

(SDS)

13.

VE

(SDS)

14.

VE

(SDS)

15.

VE

(SDS)

16.

VE

(Stand)

17.

Roof thing

V2

(SDS)

18.	V3	(SDS)
	A little contrived in avoiding the big foot hold on the next line at the top out.

19.

V0

(SDS)

The Block Area

The Block Area is 5mins past the Main Area.

Walk along the Tangara trail past the main area (small beach) until a fork that goes towards the water. Follow the fork towards the water until near a big dead tree. Head for the top of the waterside cliff trending right (South). Follow the cliff top until you can access the rocky beach and blocks.

The Block area has a range of nice problems to while away some time in pleasant surroundings. Many of the problems are well above the waterline so should be accessible at high tide.

20.	Nob Stepper	V1
	Sit start with hands on the low protruding nob, step up onto it and finish direct up the wall above.
	Jack Colbeck 31/10/22

21.	First Time Lucky	V0
	Sit start just left of the corner with the chockstone. Trend slightly left to the top.
	Kat Colbeck 31/10/22

★ 22.	Left Arete	V0
	The left arete of the wall on its right side, starting at the low break.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

23.	The Wiry Seaman	V0
	Up the wall between the left arete and the crack, starting at the low break.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

24.	Ocean Crack	V0
	The nice thin hand crack, starting from the low break.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

25.	Wet Ledge	V0
	Sit start on the ledge, block for feet, straight up.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

26.	Seaward Prow	V0
	Sit start below the prow and climb directly over it.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

27.	Stepped Crack	VE
	The easy stepped crack.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

★ 28.	Delicate Face	V2
	The nice technical face on small holds.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

★★ 29.	Condensation Prize	V1
	A nice problem on the back side of the Monumental Block. Standing start, up to undercut, then good holds in the middle of the wall. Make a fairly long move up and right and then to the top. Quite high and not the best landing.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

★ 30.	Monumental	V0	(SDS)
	Start with left and right sidepulls

★★ 31.	Palatine	VE	(SDS)
	Start on jug.

The Mouth is a small cave to the right of the Monumental boulder. Topping out the problems involves easy climbing and a long walk (otherwise downclimb or jump off when standing above the lip). Seems like there are a few options for traverses and variants to the obvious lines.

★★★ 32.

Lip Servant

V4

(SDS)

Start on lip jug and pinchy undercling. Head left to the arete and up.

★★ 33.	Lip Servant Low	V5	(SDS)
	Low start to Lip Servant, adds a couple of moves. Start with left hand on obvious square corner and right hand on small flake down and right under the roof.
	Jack Colbeck 18/11/22

★ 34.	I Don't Want to Jam That Indirect	V4
	Sit start on the two sidepulls down and left of the crack, left hand up to good hold on Lip Service, then reach right to the crack and layback up it. The direct start from the hidden rail down and right still needs to be done.
	Jack Colbeck 11/11/22

★★★ 35.	Mouthy	V6	(SDS)
	Burly. Start on the hidden rail, to the right of the crack.

36.	Low Traverse	V1
	Traverse the low break left to right.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

37.	Suburban	VE	(Stand)
	Start on the ledge on the south face.

38.

VE

(Stand)

39.

VE

(Stand)

40.

VE

(Stand)

41.

VE

(SDS)

★ 42.	Two left shoes	V3	(SDS)
	Start on the big undercling and throw to the top.

43.	The Not So Great Escape	V1
	Stand start, up to the roof then head left and mantle onto the ledge.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

★ 44.	Rock Around the Block	V2
	Start on the upper left corner on the block. With hands on top, traverse downhill and all the way around the block, back to where you started. Pumpy.
	Jack Colbeck 29/10/22

★★ 45.

One of lifes small struggles

V3

(SDS)

Start with the high right crimp and mid left arete. Pop to the top then mantle it out.

Look to be three variations the lower the RH starts the harder the problem.

46.	Perched Arete	V2
	Sit start with hands below the perched block, reach out to the arete, work hands up then rockover onto the slab.
	Jack Colbeck 31/10/22