The Cliffs of Insanity

Introduction
The Cliffs of Insanity are on the western slopes of Stepped Hills. The excellent quality conglomerate has potential for a lot of wild adventure climbing on its 150-300m high faces (maximum unbroken height 170m). The rock is classified as Reed's conglomerate (the same as Adamsfield), but the composition of the conglomerate makes for quite a different climbing experience with far fewer cobbles, larger sections of cobble free quartz-sandstone matrix (which is very hard and smooth), and almost no sharp holds. The cracks often feature no pebbles on their edges, so the natural protection is generally very good (where-as at Adamsfield it is poor). Much of the climbing is also notably different the Tyndalls conglomerate experience due to the much lower density of pebbles here.

Lines here tend to be easier than appearances would suggest due to positive holds - this allows for overhanging features to be tackled ground up on trad gear. There is space for hundreds of routes on the large walls and the many smaller crags that surround them. Access to date has been via boat/kayak to base-camp, and walking to the base is now relatively easy since the 2019 Gel river fires.

Ethics
The cliff is within the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and the Tasmanian World Heritage Area, so please respect the principals of minimal impact bush walking and climbing defined for this region (see CCT code of conduct).
Access
The cliffs can be accessed by driving 3 hours from Hobart to the end of Clear Hill Road (improved with works in 2021) and taking the eastern spur (now 2WD in 2022) to reach the Boyes Basin 'boat ramps' (limited infrastructure) on Lake Gordon. There are two such informal 'boat ramps' on the southern shore of Boyes Basin:
- the eastern one is preferred as it has a better surface and is closer to the cliffs, but the last bit of the bit was recently blocked by fallen trees that hopefully will be cleared soon (Jan 2025).
- access to the western ramp has to date always been maintained as clear (used Jan 2025); it about 3 km paddle from basecamp.

Carrying chainsaw is advised on some fishing web-sites - as trees can fall across this remote road.

By Boat.
From the eastern ramp it is only 2km by watercraft to the Nor-eastern shoreline under the cliffs, where a base camp can be set up (typically near the prominent boulder).

Note that launching a speed boat can be tricky if the lake level is lower than 26m from full on the western ramp (hydro tas site), or lower than 23m from full on the eastern ramp (larger numbers means further from full - ie a lower level). Flotsam wooden can be used to span the mud if levels are low!!

By foot:
Theoretically one could access these cliffs without a boat by walking the shoreline of Boyes basin from the eastern boat ramp, then rock hopping across the Gordan river near the cliff base (estimated 2 hours walk). An old road exists back from the southern shoreline that it is blocked to traffic, but may be easier option than the shoreline for accessing the river crossing.

From Base-camp to cliff.
Until 2019 the approach to the cliff-base was rather challenging due to thick scrub; since the 2019 fires the access spurs to the main buttresses are now clear. The route of MP was climbed as 30 hour 'round trip' from Hobart in 2022. I have done 2 day trips to these cliffs by leaving Hobart before dawn, but camping is recommended for the first trip to the longer climbs. Dead slicks still slow walkers progress in certain areas, such as the main gullies. In 2025 the access to Dump Luck was 20 mins walk, and Mapali Patrula was about 90 mins.
Camping
Shoreline beaches below the cliff line. The swimming here is pleasantly warm in the summer months.

Crag Steward

Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southwest@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Access Topo

Cliff topo

★ 1.Macondo110m14 
Climbs the lowest and left most block of rock. Best approached via the button-grass lead on the northern shoulder, or the scree path that runs below it.
1. 50m 14In the middle of the face about one third of the way up, is a large, prominent roof. The route starts directly below this. Climb over the initial steepness using the jugs slightly to the left, and continue up excellent rock to pass the roof via a notch on it's left edge. Belay above this next to a tree.
2. 30m 13Continue directly up the nice slabs to another roof. Traverse 5m left and around a corner to a large ledge.
3. 30m 10Climb the corner and slabs to the top. An abseil may be necessary to reach the descent gullies on either side.
R. Hardy and B. Armstrong, Nov 2017
★★ 2.Dumb Luck80m19 
Climbs the cliff immediately to the right of Macondo. Awesome adventure climbing with a wild roof move.
1. 30m 14The right-hand half of the block has a wide roof about 25m above the ground. Locate the big flake system just below the right-hand end of it, and start climbing 7m to the left of this. Up jugs to a small ledge, continue directly up for several meters, traverse left on obvious holds for 5m then climb up a crack to belay at a ledge just below the left-hand end of the roof.
2. 30m 19Traverse a few meters right and haul over the roof. Continue up the sustained slabs to a ledge.
3. 30m 12Directly up the short wall then climb the spiky tower to the right of the scrubby gully. Descend by abseil off to the left.
R. Hardy and B. Armstrong, Nov 2017
★★★ 3.Mapali Patrula (Many fires)170m22 
Takes the proudest line on the central buttress, with excellent first and last pitches, and consistently good pitches between. Well protected (apart from one short section on pitch 4), good rock, with each pitch tackling overhanging features then ending on comfortable ledges.
Gear: standard trad rack with doubles to #2, a generous variety of smaller cams, and singles of #3 and #4.
Access (1-2hours walk). From the lake edge walk to the base of small buttress 50m R of Dumb Luck. Sidle round to the right of this buttress into the hidden gully and ascend this until it is possible to scramble right to the base of the climb. Start: the climb starts on the main cliff face immediately adjacent the 10m high broad pillar that sits below the right end of the orange overhangs. A cairn is built on the starting ledge.
1. 30m 22A very good pitch of steep climbing with great gear. Climb steep L facing corner for 10m until it ends at 1m rooflet, traverse left for 3m under rooflet then crank high to the next vertical crack (crux), then onwards up overhanging R facing corner which soon opens into a chimney for 5m then ends on a 2x3m boulder strewn ledge. This pitch overhangs ~ 5m, so consider avoiding a flash pump by warming up a bit before the crux hits!
2. 15m 18Up and left off ledge to a steep stance on small ledge 2m above belay, then left again off this (crux) to steep juggy wall above. large ledge belay.
Reposition belay 4m left below arete.
3. 35m 18Climb R leading diagonal crack from arete (crux) onto R wall, then through small overlap and easier ground above. Pass ledge then ascend another crack on the arete until belay under the large overhang.
Reposition belay 5m right to below right facing corner system.
4. 15m 19Climbs the R facing corner, but since the initial 4m are vegetated, this bit is passed on R wall (gr 17 face climbing with no gear - belayer spotting required). Up corner, stepping R when it steepens, then step L to finish on small ledge.
5. 35m 17-19Continue up steep R facing corner until it ends after 15m, then up cracks above until the major horizontal weakness is reached and a steep, blank wall blocks upwards progress. Traverse 5m left to belay under beautiful L facing corner, about 5m R of the arete that drops into space).
6. 30m 19Intimidating, but a total hoot to climb! This pitch overhangs ~ 8m. Climb L facing corner until it ends at 8m, then traverse L to the twin crack lines on the arete. Take the L crack - steep and juggy and gopod jams too, until the 3m roof crack can be half tackled and half avoided by using steep sloping ledges on left (an unusual crux sequence that probably isn't that hard, but extremely exposed, albeit very well protected). Continue up easy weakness above to belay on chockstone.
7. 15mEasy scramble to top.
H Jackson and M Spicer (alt) Feb 2022
★★ 4.Inconceivable90m17 
Remarkable exposure at the grade.
Access to top 2 ptiches: walk to the top of stepped hills via ridge then left into gully system just north of the Cliffs of Insanity. Scramble down gully between the major buttresses for ~ 100m for the 2 pitches. A ledge system leads to the arete (start of the climb).
45m 17Ascend steep face just left of arete, passing many small roof features. belay beneath large roof.
45m 17Tackle easiest weakness through roof above belay (curx), then weave right to avoid next large roof, then climb back left up blank looking face and left arete above, with reasonable protection (looks improbable).
H Jackson, M Jackson, S Joseph 31/12/2006
★ 5.Inconceivable direct start (1)180m17 
This is the record of an attempt at completing Inconveivable from the base (the top was not reached). These pitches are not as good as the ones on the original climb, but better vairants could be attempted by subsequent parties!
Access from base: Follow access track from MP, but go up the next major gully east (90 cmins total from beach).
Start: Scramble up gully, past one tricky solo section (5m high, grade 16) until a ledge system allows you to walk out right to the base of an impressive overhanging crack line (see topo photo). Belay here.
1. 30m 17Up very steep cracks, with slightly dodgy rock for first 10m. Belay on small ledge 4m before prominent off width overhang! The off width overhang appears to be guarded by a large loose block, so it has not been attempted.
2. 40m 16Traverse left 4m under roofline, then 1m down (crux), and then further left to major corner. Up major corner passing the roof line, climbing mostly on right wall, to major grassey ledge system (5m deep).
3.40m Various options exist here to reach the original "Inconceivable" start point, including climbing the relatively easy gully 50m left. The best option (not climbed), would be to follow the steep cracks on the arete (probably about gr 18) that lead straight to original line.
4 and 5: head up Inconceivable
H Jackson, J Spencer Jan 2025
 
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