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Re: New Routes
I've just added this to the Cataract Gorge Guide Cataract Gorge shady side, also in the poem recess, AKA the toilet recess **Sounding Silence 24, 15m The main line up the face of the alcove. Climb past 3 FH to stand on pedestal, place some gear in the crack, from here some holds out left lead the way to the topRe: New Routes
and hand cracks to rap bolts. G Phillips, S. Young Jan. 2010. Migrated to Confluence 4.0Re: New Routes
New trad classic at the star factory! Total Eclipse of the Heart 20m 28 *** The obvious corner right of the reason. climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground. Alex Lewis July 2010Re: New Routes and News 2012
Another new route at Neika middle tier: ★ Lots of Box 12m 21 Þ ↓ The line of 5 bolts up the wall and roof just right of the Andre Zanada corner. There is a variant that is a few grades harder by eliminating the crack to the left. Jon Nermut, Apr 2012. There's now over 50 routes at Neika (including someRe: New Routes and News 2012
Professor Snape (he really is!) weaves his magic spells again.... * Crucio 30m 17 ↓ Takes a spellbinding line up the face of the pillar 5m to the R of Smoke and Mirrors, to L of Breaker Spur. Climb the open book corner and then the exciting steep wall above to the finger crack. Finish upRe: New Routes and News 2012
corner. Bridge the corner, turning the roof on the R and follow the LH crack line to the top. Thread belay. Tony McKenny, Richard Eccleston, Tim Chappell, DecRe: New Routes and News 2013
I'd love to give it a crack but still have 6 months of rehab or so! I didnt mean to imply you doing the FA with rap inspection was a lesser experience, just now that its been cleaned and people know it is possible on gear/it goes then leave it at that and have a bold 22, much like other memorable routes aroundRe: New Routes and News 2013
well i guess i should write this up before its bolted! on the face L of Berts Fear: Mediocracy * 22 R 25m Start at the base of Berts Fear. Climb the crack line, staying L of Berts Fear. Follow line up and across face to finish as for Spittoon. Take small gear, try to hide your disappointment when most of it wontRe: New Routes and News 2013
Its a bit of a variant to neon god really. The protectable obvious start is the thin crack 1.5m to the right of neon god start, you come back into neon god at 3rd bolt. I did it on a single rope so doesn't stray too far from neon god. Its a pretty unlikely looking trad route but the gear comes together pretty wellRe: New Routes and News 2013
** Creeping death direct 35m 20 Rap in as for Beowulf, swing right around the corner and belay on small triangular shaped ledge. Great climbing up crack system to meet creeping death under the roof. Traverse left under the roof on lay backs. Get a knee bar in the roof and look down at your belayer dodging the waves