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Another 3 star route at Fingal
The upper wall on the right hand side of Bare Rock keeps producing the goods. Good rock quality, excellent climbing on a one pitch route with 150m of exposure. Access via the 3 pitch climb Tomorrows Dream (19). Into the Void 45m 25 *** Next line left of Supernaut and 2nd line in from the left side of the faceClimbing in Victoria - new select guidebook
that there is a fantastic new guidebook for the best climbing there! See details below. Sublime Climbs is a brilliant guidebook to the very best rock-climbing venues in Victoria. This 380 page full-colour extravaganza covering Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians includes: over 700 rock-climbs, meticulously describedBouldering in Crampons?
the impacts of crampons on this quite soft rock are permanent and pretty unsightly. Im not against practicing for mixed climbing or whatever the perpetrator was up to, but maybe a quarry of harder rock might be a much better venue for this sort of thing, there are plenty of those around. GLost Falls
issues: The three bolt belay that is shared by both climbs at the top of their second pitches has been severely damaged by rock fall: two of the bolts are unusable. (Alex suggests that it would be good to move that station up and left a metre and a half or so to protect the anchors from further rock fallRe: Anchor install at top of third bird
Great idea. Was going to look into this this season. Last time I was up there we had a look at where to put them, might need a little bit of thought as the obvious spot off to the right tends to run the pull over some loose crap which could cause rope jams / rock fall hazard.Re: candlestick alternative route
I climbed it that way around 1986, going up that obvious corner from the sea and then continuing straight up the line above to the top - lots of loose rock so it might have been the first ascent, although the Candlestick is fairly loose in general. It was about 18 as I recall.Re: New Routes 2017
Also: would people support the additon of a rap anchor down Stud City? The current abseil is rather awful (loose rock, lots of prickly rope snagging bushes). The second BR on Continuum is well positioned (in line and above small ledge) to be incorporated into a second rap anchor.Re: Pleasant Screams Direct
Pleasant Screams and After Midnight are of course chip-ups Have a good look at the photos in Rock to see the extent of the ' necessary cleaning ' that sam did in the 90's There was no need to smash the f### out of the unique dolerite surface, using hammers Migrated to Confluence 4.0Re: Tyndalls!!!
hey john we did not free the crux. it's quite hard. oh and simon, they did not free it in a day. i talked to adam and he said they climbed it in a day but not free, with garath just jugging because of a injury. it will be hard in a day i think, mostly because of the style of the rock. but has to be doneRe: The Choss Files - Tarraleah Falls
Looks pretty good...and featured you say? Looks like it could have some Ali-hulk style boulder problem/routes. What's the access like (i.e. will I get arrested if I rock up with a some pads, a drill, pry-bar, and whatnot to do some developing?) Migrated to Confluence 4.0