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<text class="heading1">University Buttress
number="null.">University Buttress is the area immediately L of Avalanche Couloir. Its RH end presents a narrow, vertical face of clean rock. The LH end is of less interest and is broken into a complex of minor features. Splitting the RH end is a striking large 60 metre high corner (Ozymandias), a feature that is discernable from the Organ Pipes Track.
An alternnative access is via the Sawmill Track from the road (limited parking), which meets the Organ Pipes Track (GPS E0519735 N5250377) directly below Triclinicity.
Descent varies, with some routes requiring scrambles back into Avalanche Couloir. There is a rap station above the Way.
extra="" grade="22" length="60m" name="Blank Generation"
stars="***">No intellectual ability required, just pure grunt. The pumpy number up the steep RH wall of Ozymandias. (1) 35m. Climb straight up the wall, following the thin crack (crux). (2) 25m. Continue up the wall. G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.
extra="" grade="16" length="60m" name="Ozymandias"
stars="">"Two vast and trunkless legs of stone stand. with wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command." The big lichenous corner on the front of the buttress that provides a thorough work out. (1) 20m. Climb the corner and belay at a small stance above the bulge. (2) 40m. Continue up the corner, taking care not to come a cropper on the moss and lichen. M. Douglas, J. Whelan, R. Williams, Oct. 1966.
extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Triclinicity"
stars="">A total pile of choss. Check your life insurance policy before starting. On the buttress 8m L of Ozymandias, at the corner crack on the LH end that exits through a small overhang. Up the corner, jam through the roof and continue to the top. If you haven't died, descend by climbing down the other side. P. Robinson, K. Bischoff, Mar. 1981.
extra="" grade="19" length="70m"
name="Pete'&apos;s Power Plummet" new="false" number=""
stars="*">The scene of a 30m factor two power dive. Starts on the front of the Triclinicity buttress. (1) 25m. Climb the hand crack up the front of the buttress. (2) 30m. Up the nice looking but a bit lichenous wall, then the corner above, stepping L at the roof to a good belay ledge. (3) 15m. Up the steep hand crack in the corner, then step L and up the mossy ledges and corner to the top. This pitch is not actually a doddle as sometimes reported and is worth protecting in case of a slip. (.The normal Normal method of descent, for normal people, is by abseil ( tape). Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar. 1992, to within 5m of the top.
extra="" grade="16" length="55m" name="Sisyphus"
stars="">Starts on the south side of the Triclinicity buttress. From Triclinicity go L to the prow and around L for 6m to a gully. Scramble up the gully over pineapple grass to a large ledge. (1) 30m. Up the clean chimney-crack to the top of the buttress. Climb the black streaked grooves up the wall directly above the chimney and belay on a large grassy ledge. (2) 25m. Climb the blocks to a crack on the L, which is climbed to the top. Abseil off (tape) or scramble L to pitches 4 and 5 of Prodigal. P. Robinson, D. Drake, Feb. 1982.
extra="" grade="21" length="35m" name="Blind Faith" new="false"
stars="*">Start 20m R and up from The Good the Excellent, below a nose of rock. Climb the steep wall (crux) to an easier crack. Finish up the hand-crack on the L side of the nose. Abseil off a bollard ( take your own sling). Sam Edwards, Feb/95.
extra="" grade="21" length="50m" name="Two Angry Young Men"
stars="*">Starts 15m L of Sisyphus underneath the black and orange streaked prow with two cracks that diverge at a small roof. Takes the L hand line. (1) Trend R up the steep wall to the top of a loose pillar. Climb the hand crack above, past the roof and up the line to the vegetation. Move R to the nose and ascend this to an off width corner that passes L of a roof. Climb this to a large ledge below twin cracks. (2) Climb the thin L hand crack (crux). N. Deka, M. Ling, Feb. 1988.
extra="" grade="15" length="125m" name="Prodigal"
stars="">A rambling route with sketchy route details that starts at the Good, the Excellent, and the Ugly, traverses R, crosses Two Angry Young Men and finishes up L of Sisyphus. Scramble L up the vegetated ramp to the Good, Excellent etc. buttress. (1) 35m. A long traverse up and R over grassy ledges leads to a short crack below a big grassy ledge. 2) 10m. Up the crack and move R past Two Angry Young Men pitch 2, to belay on the ledge below two easy cracks. 3) 25m. Climb the cracks, taking the R one near the top. Scramble up to the small buttress with a thin clean crack. 4) 15m. (crux) Climb the enjoyable crack. 5) 40m. Follow the ridge easily until one can scramble down Fool's Couloir (abseil at bottom) or Avalanche Couloir. G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Nov. 1981.
extra="" grade="22" length="30m"
name="The Good, the Excellent and the Ugly"
stars="*">As for Prodigal, climb the ramp just L of Two Angry Young Men to another orange and black streaked buttress, the L of which overlooks Fools Couloir. Takes the line on the R and front of the buttress. Climb the finger crack to the bulge, surmount this (crux) and continue up the dirty R hand crack above to the top. Abseil off. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="35m" name="The Light"
stars="*">Start on the face between The Way and The Good the Excellent. Technical climbing past three Us leads to a crack (about grade 18 to finish). Rap station above The Way R. Parkyn, Mar. 1995.
extra="Þ" grade="23" length="35m" name="The Way"
stars="**">Excellent face climbing up a slightly overhanging wall about 10m L of The Good, the Excellent and the Ugly. (1) 20m 23. The difficulty (but not necessarily the pump) decreases with height. Can also be done by traversing R after the first u-bolt and climbing a crack-line to the R (clipping the U-bolts by reaching L) then re-joining the route between the third and fourth U-bolts. It's a pleasant enough variation, and one or two grades easier, but avoids the meatiest part of the route. (2) 10m 20. Ascend via the corner and buttress (note that the second U-bolt on this pitch is not visible from below). Rap station. R. Parkyn, Oct. 94.
extra="Þ" grade="22" length="20m" name="The Truth" stars="*">Un-obvious, bizarre and interesting. This route is 2m L of The Way. Natural gear then U-bolts. Rap station above The Way R. Parkyn, Nov. 94. </climb>