<header access="Access to Northern Buttress is via the track from the LH end of the parking bay which crosses the Organ Pipes Track and continues on up the hill. Where the track meets the base of the buttress, go up R where the best routes are found on the sunnyside of the Lower Cliff. The LH side (or The Darkside) is more broken and is bounded on the L by Chockstone Gully, which leads up to the rear of the Notch.<br/>Descent: Check each separate crag for details." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="This is the first major buttress at the RH end of The Pipes. Routes here are shorter, less serious and often sunnier. If you are not familiar with The Pipes then climbing a route on this buttress is less likely to end in an epic encounter. <br/>The ridgeline of the buttress is split halfway along by a gap in the ridge known as the Notch. The pinnacle immediately L (east) of the Notch is Buttress Pinnacle (rap station). The cliffs R (west) of the Notch comprise the Upper Cliff area. The pinnacles along the Upper Cliff skyline form Sentinel Ridge (14). Descriptions begin with climbs on smaller buttresses on the R and uphill of the main Buttress and are described R to L.<br/>" name="Northern Buttress" rock="Dolerite cracks, faces and ridges up to 50m" sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min uphill" id="1"/>
<image src="NorthernButtressPrint.jpg" width="800" id="2" legend="true" legendx="20" legendy="20" legendTitle="Northern Buttress">
<image src="northern buttress.png" width="" id="3">
<text class="heading2" id="51">
<text class="text" id="52">
The next climbs start either at the toe of the buttress or around on the south (shady) side.
<image src="DarksidePrint.jpg" width="700" id="53" legend="true" legendx="510" legendy="20" legendTitle="Northern Buttress Darkside">
<climb extra="5Þ ↓" grade="23" length="12m" name="Side Saddling Cheesecake " number="SC" stars="" id="64" fa="N. Selby, 2001.">
Face and arête L of Jackson's Apprentices to rap station.
<climb extra="↓" grade="24" length="11m" name="Jackson's Apprentices " stars="" id="63" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Aug 1982. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, Oct 1982." number="JX">
The short steep wall on the L at the foot of Chockstone Gully. Follow the crack system up the middle of the buttress. Abseil from rap station.
<climb extra="" grade="7 " length="46m" name="Chockstone Gully " stars="" id="62" fa="Unknown, 1950s." number="CG">
This route gives perhaps the quickest access to The Notch and Buttress Pinnacle, though it is often quite wet. Traverse south around the base of Northern Buttress and walk uphill to bottom of gully containing some large chockstones. The huge rectangular chockstone bridging the top of the gully is Chockstone Slab. The first 30m of the 'route' are mainly a scramble ending at Chockstone Slab (also encountered on the Labyrinth and the Chasm routes). Climb up the slab and continue to The Notch.
<climb extra="↓" grade="9 " length="120m" name="Skyline Minor " number="SM" stars="**" id="61" fa="Unknown, but a route was made up to the Pinnacle by J. Peterson and D. Webber in about 1958.">
A climb that follows the crest of the Northern Buttress ridge to the summit of Buttress Pinnacle. The route has many variations. Start at either the second or third chimney on the south side of Northern Buttress.
1. 7m. (a) Cruddy Chimney: The RH chimney. (b) Easy Chimney: The LH and less interesting chimney.
2. 40m. Scramble easily up to the R and join the skyline proper at the Second Platform.
3. 15m. Skyline Traverse: Continue easily up to the foot of the next prominent crack (Curving Crack) where the ridge steepens. R of this, climb up for 5m onto the top of a block on the ridge crest. An exposed traverse leads 4m across the north face to a stance on top of the Canopy Chockstone of Pulpit Chimney.
4. 15m. (a) Bottleneck Chimney: A narrow continuation of Pulpit Chimney. Belay above the constriction at the level of the Third Platform. (b) Bottleneck Passage: Squeeze through the tunnel behind the stance to the south side of the buttress, and climb 3m to the Third Platform. (c) Window Crack: Up the crack on the L wall of the chimney, continuing R through Bottleneck Chimney to the Third Platform. (d) Window Wall: The face to the L of Window Crack.
5. 20m. Bottleneck Chimney (continued): Straight up the wide chimney. At its top, cross over to the R of a large flake on the upper wall. Continue up airily on good holds until the angle eases.
6. 20m. Traverse easily up to the Buttress Pinnacle. Abseil from rap station on Buttress Pinnacle.
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Pelf " stars="" id="60" fa="E. Peacock (solo), Feb 1983." number="PE">
The small buttress L of Bollard Chimney and just R of the Cruddy Chimney. Climb the thin line up the L side of the wall. Walk off.
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="10m" name="Pommy Slide " stars="*" id="59" fa="D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1987.">
Shares the same start as Pelf. Climb Pelf to the 2.5 cam placement and step R. Climb the R side of the block to top. Run out. Walk off.
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="10m" name="Bollard Chimney " stars="" id="58" fa="Unknown.">
The first chimney on the south side of Northern Buttress, distinguished by a group of prominent spikes at its foot. Straight up the chimney, exiting L of the overhang. Walk off L.
<climb extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Sorrow " stars="*" id="57" fa="M. Law, K. Carrigan, 1978." number="SO">
The steep black streaked wall between Southern Crack (Skyline Major) and Bollard Chimney that is often wet. Climb the wall directly. Scramble off to L.
<climb extra="" grade="23" length="18m" name="Great Pets " stars="" id="56" fa="D. Fife, Feb 1996.">
Climb the thin face and cracks a few metres R of Sorrow. Scramble off L.
<climb extra="↓" grade="14" length="93m" name="Skyline Major " number="" stars="**" id="55" fa="M. Douglas, T. Terry, Mar 1967. Piton Crack: R. Cox, R. Lidstone, 1962.">
This climb is entwined with Skyline Minor, but follows the ridge crest more directly. Start at the lowest extremity of Northern Buttress.
1. 10m. Four alternatives lead to the first platform. (a) Nose: Directly up the edge of the buttress. (b) Southern Crack: The first crack on the south side of the buttress. (c) R Hook: Starts at the foot of Southern Crack but traverses around to the R. (d) Layback Crack: The first steep hand-crack on the northern side of the buttress.
2. 13m. Piton Crack: Up the vertical crack in the corner.
3. 10m. Curving Crack: Above the Second Platform where the ridge steepens is a conspicuous flaring chimney lying L of the crest. Up this awkwardly.
4. 20m. Traverse around R of the small tower above and pass through Bottleneck Chimney to the Third Platform on the southern side of the buttress.
5. 40m. (a) Deception Crack: Climb directly up the crack on the L from the Third Platform, then onto the summit of Buttress Pinnacle. (b) Bottleneck Chimney: Continue up the chimney (as for Skyline Minor) to the Buttress Pinnacle. (c) 16. Climb the crack immediately L of Bottleneck Chimney. Abseil from the rap station on the Buttress Pinnacle.
<climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="80m" name="Jump Ship " stars="" id="54" fa="H. Jackson, S. Jarman (alt), Aug 1997.">
A rising traverse that connects the lowest part of Northern Buttress to Centaur to make three colourful pitches.
1. 30m. Start at the layback option (1d) of Skyline Major. Climb this, then traverse across Raspberry Jam and Crackers to the R arête and bridge across Andromeda to the All Systems Go buttress. Traverse across, mantle up and keep traversing to belay on the Pulpit.
2. 25m. Follow R-trending sickle crack of Reluctance to a prominent, protruding pedestal. Step on the very edge of this and bridge widely across Pulpit Chimney to Tearaway (crux). Continue up and around arête as for Tearaway, then traverse directly R across Conflict in the Cabal and Pegasus. From Pegasus, go diagonally up and R to reach Centaur. Belay 2m beneath small roof below hand crack of Centaur.
3. 25m. Finish up Centaur.
<text class="heading2" id="20">Northern Buttress Lower Cliff</text>
<image src="Northern Lower Print.jpg" width="500" id="21" legend="true" legendx="20" legendy="20" legendTitle="Northern Buttress">
<text class="text" id="22">This section contains the majority of routes on Northern Buttress. The sunny RH side has crack and face climbs up a steep wall, whereas the LH side is more broken.
Descent: A memorable 45m abseil from the rap station (backed up 2007) at the top of Buttress Pinnacle descends in devious fashion through some large chockstones and directly down the Chasm. Alternatively (and much less appealing) is a 25m abseil down to the southern side of the Buttress from the rap station and scramble down into Chockstone Gully: a notorious place to get your ropes jammed.</text>
<climb extra="↓ " grade="17" length="28m" name="Raspberry Jam and Crackers " number="" stars="***" id="50" fa="G. Body, B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Dec 1972.">
Seventeen? Pig's arse! Elegant face climbing on the wall L of Andromeda. Climb the newly exposed rock in the R-facing corner past a fixed pin (2001). One metre above this, hand-traverse L and up to a L-facing flake. Climb delicately up the thin face above (crux) to a small ledge at the base of a diagonal short corner. Climb the corner, then reach L and mantle onto a ledge. Layback onto a block and finish up the short crack above. Protection is spaced, but adequate. Scramble off the back or abseil from rap station (28m).
<climb extra="↓ " grade="20" length="25m" name="Frostbite's for Wusses " number="" stars="*" id="49" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jul 1997.">
The arête L of Andromeda and R of Raspberry Jam and Crackers. Gear difficult to place on lead, so pre-placed at crux on first ascent. Scramble off the back or abseil as for Raspberry Jam.
<climb extra="↓ " grade="14" length="24m" name="Andromeda " number="AN" stars="*" id="48" fa="Top roped by T. Christie, G. Wyatt, Feb 1965. First led by R. Williams, Mar 1967.">
The first major chimney to the R of the toe of the Buttress, once regarded as "a serious and insecure climb". Climb straight up from the base of the chimney to a belay ledge. Continue up either of the Skyline routes, scramble off the back, or abseil as for Raspberry Jam.
<climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="32m" name="Discipline " stars="*" id="47" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Dec 1990.">
Contrived but surprisingly good climbing on the arête R of Andromeda. Climb straight up the arête past a small roof (crux), taking care not to stem across the Andromeda chimney. Climb the finger crack above and step R to continue up the wall just L of All Systems Go to its belay ledge. Descent as for All Systems Go.
<climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="32m" name="All Systems Go " number="AS" stars="***" id="46" fa="R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, 1976.">
Go, go, go. Advanced route-finding up the wall L of the Pulpit. Climb up the crack on L of the Pulpit, moving L at 3m up the flakes. Directly up the centre of the smooth wall to the horizontal then traverse R to the top of the Pulpit. Two ways: up the thin crack before either (1) a step back L leads to a finger crack: follow crack through small roof to belay or (2) from the step L, traverse further to the dark streaked crack and climb up to the roof. Traverse R via the undercling to join the finger crack and so to the top. Abseil (rap station, 32m) or scramble off back, down the chimney.
<climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="36m" name="Reluctance " stars="*" id="45" fa="N. Deka, J. Richardson, Apr 1980. Direct Finish: N. Deka, F. Moon, Jan 1989.">
The wall directly above the Pulpit. Climb to the top of the Pulpit and then continue up the wall above following the finger crack. Step L to a ledge and either bail out easily up All Systems Go or better, continue up crack and wall to the R. Descent as for All Systems Go.
<climb extra="↓" grade="13" length="10m" name="The Pulpit " number="PU" stars="" id="44" fa="Unknown, circa 1960.">
The large rectangular flake to the L of Pulpit Chimney.
1a. 9. Start up the crack on the L side of the flake, then traverse across the face of the Pulpit and into the crack on the R. Climb this and belay on top.
1b. 13. Climb the crack on the L to the top of the Pulpit. (2) Either descend or climb the wall above via a dog-legged crack onto a ledge which leads into Pulpit Chimney. Continue up the chimney.
<climb extra="↓" grade="12" length="75m" name="Pulpit Chimney " number="PC" stars="**" id="43" fa="T. Christie, G. Wyatt, 1964.">
One of the best beginner routes on the Pipes. Start at the major chimney L of Pegasus.
1. 40m. Climb directly up the chimney past the detached chockstones to a ledge below the Canopy Chockstone. Move R onto the face and mantelshelf up onto a ledge from where the chockstone can be surmounted.
2. 35m. Continue as for Skyline Minor, pitches 4 and 5.
<climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" name="Pulpit Crack " number="" stars="" id="42" fa="S. Parsons, A. Adams, 1982.">
Slightly contrived as it is possible to step L into the Chimney at the crux. Starts towards the back of the Chimney on the RH wall.
1. Climb straight up the crack to belay on top of chockstone.
2. Climb the finger crack in a corner on R wall.
<climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="53m" name="Tearaway " number="" stars="**" id="41" fa="D. Hain, K. Kiernan, Jan 1975.">
Worthwhile and rewarding. The crack up the RH side of Pulpit Chimney offers an excellent sustained pitch.
1. 38m 18. Climb up the Chimney a couple of metres until you can step R into the crack. Up this and then follow a weakness up and around R onto the nose. Make a few moves up and then step back L and up to the base of the L side of the Great Flake. Continue straight up the wide crack, moving out R to climb up the arête to the top of the Flake.
2. 15m 14. Continue up the crack to the R, finishing up Pegasus Direct. Alternatively, rather than belay on the Flake, continue straight up the short exposed wall (4m) on the L to belay on the ledge of the original finish of Pegasus (a descent can be made from here through the chimney to the L, followed by a steep scramble down the back).
<climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="45m" name="Conflict In The Cabal " number="" stars="**" id="40" fa="E. Peacock, L. Bottomley, Nov 1991.">
Follow Subterfuge to the vee under the roof then continue straight up instead of stepping around the arête. Continue straight up the face of the Great Flake. Runners are fairly spaced on the top section.
<climb extra="↓" grade="20" length="45m" name="Subterfuge " number="SU" stars="***" id="39" fa="D. Fife, A. Adams, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.">
The bold start is a great test for self-doubters. The line up the arête between Pegasus and Pulpit Chimney. Climb up to the thin crack which splits the bulge. Move up to a rest below a small overhang. Veer L past this and climb the spectacular arête to the top of the Great Flake. Continue up the face above to the Pegasus ledge and belay.
<climb extra="↓" grade="14" length="48m" name="Pegasus " number="PE" stars="**" id="38" fa="Original Finish: Unknown, probably first climbed about 1961. Direct Finish: T. Terry, A. Cross, Nov 1965.">
A quality route on steep, clean rock. The direct finish is recommended. Start 4m to the R of Pulpit Chimney at a squeeze chimney with two chockstones.
1. 33m 11. Follow the chimney directly and climb to the top of the huge detached flake, belay.
2. 15m 14. Either climb the short crack and traverse L to join Skyline Minor (11) or continue directly up the steep crack on the R and finish just short of the Buttress Pinnacle (14).
<climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="48m" name="Xanthos" number="" stars="*" id="37" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Feb 2009.">
Takes a distinct and separate direct line up the face between Pegasus and Centaur. Some might see this as a mere construct, a gap filler, and so it is, but the climbing is surprisingly good and, in places, really steep. Protection is a bit sparse and difficult to arrange – lateral thinking may be required in places.
1. 33m 19. Start at the base of the cliff to the R of Pegasus and follow a line straight up the wall, keeping roughly equidistant between the two neighbouring climbs. Follow a faint arête to the R of Pegasus (crux) to a small spike when a step L can be made to the top of the Pegasus flake.
2. 15m 17. Step back R onto the wall and trend up and gradually R, keeping out of the Centaur crack. Up a steep wall past a good runner to the excellent finishing crack. Sustained, steep climbing.
<image noPrint="false" src="northern buttress 2.jpg" width="500" id="26"/>
<climb extra="↓" grade="17" length="48m" name="Centaur " stars="***" id="36" fa="Some bits: A. Cross, R. Lawson, et al, Nov 1965. Other bits: J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968." number="CC">
A Pipes classic. This fine direct line starts midway between Pegasus and The Chasm. Climb up on face holds to foot of a black groove, and continue straight up the ever steepening crack past the chockstone (crux) just below the belay at top.
<climb extra="↓" grade="19" length="18m" name="Adventure before Dementia" number="" stars="" id="35" fa="T. McKenny, A. Adams, A. Brooks, Mar 2009.">
Takes the LH arête of the Chasm. Start to the R of Centaur and climb the face till it steepens. Layback the edge to the top (crux). Protection adequate but a bit sparse – RPs are the go. Belay as for Sideshow.
<climb extra="↓" grade="18" length="12m" name="Sideshow " number="SS" stars="*" id="34" fa="D. Fife, A. Adams, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.">
Companion line to Crasm Chack. The hand crack on the LH side near the front of the Chasm, which also provides a good alternative start to Centaur. Climb the steep hand crack to a small ledge on the arête. Either abseil from the chain or continue up the R-facing corner, past the scary flakes (as in Crasm Chack), then traverse L to join Centaur and so on to the top.
<climb extra="" grade="20" length="30m" name="Crasm Chack" number="" stars="" id="33" fa="S. Parsons, D. Fife, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.">
With little protection on the loose crux, the boys must have been feeling bold when they led this one. Starting inside The Chasm on the L wall, step L and up past loose holds (crux) to gain the thin crack line which splits the wall. Follow this and a line of loose flakes on the arête until it is possible to chimney up and belay on the large chockstones at the top of the Chasm. N.B. A big rock has come out of the upper section (Feb 2012).
<climb extra="" grade="" length="" name="Project" number="" stars="" id="32">The line of bolts on the R side of the Chasm is a closed project (Simon Young) intended to link up to Vanity.
<climb extra="↓" grade="11" length="48m" name="The Chasm " stars="" id="31" fa="P. Sands, J. Spinks, 1960. Direct Finish: A. Bush, P. Robinson, Apr 1975." number="CH">
The cavernous chimney which splits the RH side of the Lower Cliff and into which the abseil from Buttress Pinnacle descends. Start at the back of the Chasm at the chimney on the L.
1. 30m 11. Chasm Chimney: A fine chimney pitch giving access to the southern side of the buttress towards the top of Chockstone Gully.
2a. 18m. Continue as from pitch (4) of the Labyrinth.
2b. 18. Direct Finish. This pitch follows the continuation of the Chasm fracture to the top of the Buttress Pinnacle. From the base of Chockstone Slab climb to the top of a semi-detached flake on the R wall. Step L into the main V-chimney and continue up the crack to the top.
<climb extra="↓" grade="9" length="56m" name="The Labyrinth " number="" stars="" id="30" fa="Various stages due to T. Christie, R. Cox, R. Lawson, B. Potter, B. Proudlock, T. Terry, G. Wyatt, 1962-64. Stripper Direct: T. Christie, A. Keller, Feb 1966.">
An amusing excursion with many variants that leads to the top of Buttress Pinnacle. Start at the very back of The Chasm in the dark chimney on the R.
1. The Stripper: Energetic body-width manoeuvring in the dark, not suited to the portly. A narrow exit leads to the northern face at the foot of The Little Chasm. Climbs on Little Chasm Buttress arrive at the same point.
2a. 8. The Little Chasm: Climb the chimney to the next cave.
2b. 12. The Stripper Direct: Continue up the original chimney to a chockstone and then back to a stance in the Little Chasm, Godiva's Cavern.
3a. The Little Chasm (cont): An interesting pitch onto the suspended chockstone.
3b. Stripper Direct (cont): A diagonal chimneying traverse leads across the top of the Chasm to the base of Chockstone Slab.
4a. Climb easily up the slab to the Notch.
4b. Killer Crack: This strenuous crack lies on the R above the suspended chockstone. Above the crack a short wall leads to the Notch. 4
4c. Chockstone Crack: Under the chockstone, on the north wall of the gully, overlooking the Chasm, a steep crack leads up towards the Notch.
5. Balcony Traverse: A short traverse across the N.W. face of the summit block of Buttress Pinnacle to The Balcony, a large ledge 6m below the summit of the Pinnacle.
6a. Balcony Crack: A stiff crack leads directly from The Balcony to the skyline a few metres from the summit of Buttress Pinnacle.
6b. The Chicken Run: Traverse along The Balcony and back along the skyline.
<climb extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" name="Vanity " number="V" stars="**" id="29" fa="C. Shepherd, 1984.">
A sustained route up the Excellence buttress with 4 BRs. Start up the easy line just R of the Chasm to gain the L end of the blocky pillar. Move straight up the thin wall to the horizontal break, traverse R (reversing the Excellence undercling), and climb the R side of the face past some bolts to the top.
<climb extra="↓" grade="22" length="35m" name="Excellence " stars="**" id="28" fa="S. Parsons, A. Herington, Dec 1982." number="EX">
An exciting climb up the steep buttress to the R of The Chasm. Scramble to the top of a blocky pillar below a short R-facing corner on the R side of the buttress. Start up the corner but step around L and climb the face (little protection) to the small roof. Undercling L on the horizontal break and climb the steep finger crack to easier ground.
<climb extra="" grade="10" length="22m" name="Little Chasm Buttress " stars="" id="25" fa="Little Chasm Wall: R. Bennett, T. Christie, Oct 1965. Opossum Crack: T. Christie, F. Morley, May 1966.">
Three small introductory routes, which can be used to bypass the first pitch of the Labyrinth. Start at the base of the buttress below the Little Chasm. Three alternatives: (a) Opossum Crack: From the RH side of the entrance to the Chasm, climb the crack/chimney between the buttress and the main cliff. (b) Little Chasm Wall: Start at the L of two large semi-detached boulders at the front of the buttress. Ascend the boulders and continue, first L then R, to the top. (c) The crack to the R of the detached boulders.
<climb extra="9Þ ↓" grade="22" length="30m" name="Boy's Games " number="BG" stars="*" id="27" fa="R. Parkyn, 1992.">
A popular climb up the front of the buttress R of Excellence. Start by scrambling up the gully to the right Little Chasm Buttress then back left to a DBB at the start of the climb. Follow the bolts to the small ledge, then negotiate the overlap with some tricky and technical moves, and continue up the face to rap station. Fully bolted. Use DBB at base of route to rap back to the ground.
<text id="72">These next climbs on the Plomat buttress are reached by scrambling up to the right of Little Chasm Buttress. Instead of going left to Boys Games, go right which takes you to the base of Game On.</text>
<climb id="69" stars="**" name="Game On" extra="10Þ" length="28m" grade="21" fa="Roger Parkyn, Claudio Trefny, Steven Goss, Nick Hancock, Aug 2011.">
Buttress up hill and right of Boys' Games and just to the left of the Plomat chimney. Goes to the belay for the second pitch of CEMC.
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="40m" name="Plomat" number="PL" stars="" id="23" fa=" R. McMahon, L. Closs, Sep 1973.">
The chimney line 10m R of Little Chasm.
1. 24m. Follow the off-width/chimney past an old peg to a good ledge.
2. 9m. Continue up the tight chimney behind or over the big, dangerously loose block and out around the top one.
3. 7m. Up to join third pitch of Sentinel Ridge.
<climb id="65" name="CEMC" length="36m" grade="22" extra="Þ ↓" fa="G. Phillips, J. Bresnehan, Dec 2010." stars="*">
Climbing Edge Memorial Climb - RIP. Starts 13m R of Little Chasm, 3m further up the slope (R) from Plomat.
1. 20m 20. Up hand crack for 7m till its possible to break out L to the face. Up this past 5 bolts to the ledge. Gear required #.5 #2 and #3 camalots. Walk L along ledge to the arête.
2. 16m 21/22. Up the arête. If you finish up the 3m finger crack it is about 21 (requires # .4 and .5 camolots). Alternatively, if you finish up the face it is about 22. Abseil from rings.
<text class="heading2" id="13">Climbs from the Notch</text>
<text class="text" id="14">These routes are on the Upper Cliff and are usually done after a climb on the Lower Cliff. Access either by rapping from the Buttress Pinnacle rap station for 8m into the Notch, or by climbing up Chockstone Gully.
Descent: As for Upper Cliff. </text>
<climb extra="" grade="14" length="70m" name="Sentinel Ridge" number="SR" stars="***" id="19" fa="Unknown, 1962-65. Zigzag Crack: A. Keller, K. Sparrboom, May 1968.">
An atmospheric alpine style excursion that threads its way up the pinnacle skyline of Upper Northern Buttress. From the Notch, scramble across the chockstone and up the crack opposite for 2m to a belay ledge.
1. 15m. Hand traverse 4m L to the base of a hidden corner. Up the corner, and chimney to a tight exit onto a platform.
2. 16m. Step up and through a chimney in the RH wall. Up bulge to gain RHS of the ridge. Cross chockstones and mantle onto a broad ledge on the RHS of pinnacle.
3a. 12m. Chimney around the back side of chockstone wedged between two pinnacles and up chimney to exit R onto ledge. Easier than it looks.
3b. 17. Climb the zigzag crack to the L of wedged chockstone. Harder than it looks.
4. 15m. Directly above is a tantalising gap in the skyline. Up, step L and up to the top of a pinnacle. Step gingerly across the gap and climb up onto the belay ledge opposite. Scary, but the RPs help!
5. 5m. Turn the pinnacle on either side (RHS is easier), descend carefully into the notch, cross it and belay on top of short pillar opposite.
6a. 7m. Step into the body chimney, traverse to back and finish up the dual handcracks. Combining pitch 5 & 6a is possible.
6b. 16. Climb up L of the skyline to a platform some 5m below the top of the cliffs. Climb the choked crack on the right. The best way off is to down climb nearby Exit Entry or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station.
<climb id="70" name="Yugi Crack" length="15m " grade="26" extra="Þ" stars="**" fa="G. Phillips, G.Rowbottom, March 2011.">
On the east face of the Tombstone, as for Tombstone Direct. Climb the short crack to a small overlap(#3 Camelot), under cling out R and follow the thin crack line to the top.
<climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Tombstone Direct" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="M. McHugh, R. McMahon, C. Viney, Mar 1970.">
Take care on this old-school climb, or you may end up with your own premature tombstone - desperate stuff. Start as for Sentinel Ridge at The Notch, directly opposite the Northern Buttress rap station, on the east face of the Tombstone. Up the short crack and the chimney above.
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="15m" name="Teenage Rockstars " stars="" id="17" fa="M. Law, D. Bowman, Feb 1978." number="TR">
Start as for Sentinel Ridge, at The Notch. Move up and R to the north side of the Tombstone. Climb the steep widening crack between Rosey Specs Crack and Tombstone Direct.
<climb extra="" grade="16" length="30m" name="No Longer Champions " stars="" id="16" fa="E. Peacock, S. Ford, Nov 1991.">
A quaint pitch. Start in the crack immediately R of Teenage Rockstars, and about 15m lower down in some bushes. Climb the jam crack through a bulge and over a bush to a roof. Traverse L under the roof to make an airy step onto a lichenous sloping ledge. Continue to top.
<climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Rosey Specs Crack " stars="" id="15" fa="L. Closs, B. Kennedy, Oct 1970.">
This climb on the north side of the Tombstone was the scene of some early epics. Start as for Sentinel Ridge, a couple of metres above The Notch. Small holds lead 3m R to a chimney on the north side of the Tombstone. Follow the chimney past a ledge until a crack can be reached on the L. Jam a couple of metres up the crack and then follow a line R to another crack that continues to the top.
<climb id="68" name="No name yet" grade="20" length="15m" fa="G. Phillips, W. Bartlet, Feb 2011. " stars="*">
On the wall and cracks opposite the rap station. Scramble up to the base of the wall from the Notch, (8m R of the Yugi Crack), and traverse R to gain crack in the corner.
Up finger and hand crack in the corner till itv is possible to break out L (crux) onto the face. Up this past 3 bolt runners to rap station.
<text class="heading2" id="4">Northern Buttress Upper Cliff</text>
<text class="text" id="5">Routes on this section of Northern Buttress are reached either by scrambling R from the Lower Cliff or driving to the summit, walking down and rapping in (See Descent below).
Hand Jive and Cascade Crack are best accessed by scrambling R from Plomat (a Lower Cliff route).
The top of the routes between The Numbwaiter and Teddy Bears Picnic are located near the top of Sentinel Ridge. Abseil in from the top of Sentinel Ridge.
Descent: Either downclimb Exit Entry (see below) and descend gully to the Shipwreck (prominent viewing point under the Columns) or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station. (replaced in 2007, chains and blue spot on the rock. 30m to Amphitheatre Ledge and Upper Cliff routes, or 50m to the Gully floor).</text>
<climb extra="" grade="" length="" name="Drunks Dilemma" number="" stars="" id="12">
A climb, Drunks Dilemma, was put up around here by S. Penny, R. Lidstone and J. Peterson in 1962, but can't be located from the original description.
<climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="70m" name="Cascade Crack" number="" stars="**" id="11" fa="A. Keller, J. Veasey, Apr 1969. FFA: E. Peacock, Jan 1994.">
So named as a whiskered gentleman taunted the climbers with cans of beer throughout the first ascent. The last pitch, previously an old aid line, has been retro-bolted and freed. Start in the gully R of Plomat.
1. 25m 14. Scramble up the gully, trending R, to a small ledge.
2. 25m 14. Climb the gully/chimney, which develops into a series of wide cracks, to a large ledge.
3. 20m 25. Traverse L to a crack. Up the crack, then move R and up the corner past the overhang. Three U-bolts protect the first third (technical crux) then a #2 Friend or #2 Camalot, small "Rocks" and cams protect the very sustained upper crack.
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="8m" name="Hand Jive " number="" stars="" id="10" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, J. Otlowski, May 1989.">
Not just a pleasant crack, but a nice face as well. Directly below Kakapo Corner, a small east facing buttress is split by a clean hand crack which can be reached by scrambling R from Plomat. Climb the crack past a bulge to the top of the flake, and then up the short wall to the top.
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="20m" name="Teddy Bear's Picnic " number="TP" stars="" id="9" fa="P. Cullen, K. Rosebery, B. Kennedy, 1977.">
Just L of Kakapo Corner is an obvious corner crack. Jam very awkwardly up the crack gaining a few rests on small ledges. Continue as for Sentinel Ridge.
<climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Kakapo Corner " number="KC" stars="*" id="8" fa="D. Bowman, L. McLeod, Dec 1977. FFA: M. Law, D. Bowman, Feb 1978.">
Follows a shallow corner that meets the final pitch of Sentinel Ridge. Abseil to the ledge and jam the flake to the base of the corner. Continue past a short thin crux move to the top. Finish as for Sentinel Ridge.
<climb extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="The Nongs Are On Next " number="" stars="" id="7" fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, Jan 1991.">
Nongs beware. The third line R of Kakapo Corner, best accessed by abseil.
1. 17m. Up the wide vegetated crack to a big bushy ledge with large tea tree.
2. 18m. Surmount the large tea tree with difficulty or aid and then up the clean hand crack to the top.
<climb extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="The Numbwaiter " stars="" id="6" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, May 1989.">
Wide but reputedly interesting. 10m R of Kakapo Corner, at the far RH side of Northern Buttress, two facing corners form a shallow wide chimney. Climb the RH crack until forced to chimney, then follow the LH crack to the top.