Versions Compared


  • This line was added.
  • This line was removed.
  • Formatting was changed.
Comment: Guide edited
<guide version="3">
  <header access="Approach straight up from the Organ Pipes Track, beginning on the same track as for Bulging Buttress. An alternative access is via the Sawmill Track from the road (about 1.5km from the Springs, very limited parking), which meets the Organ Pipes Track (GPS MTW080) directly below Triclinicity.&lt;br/&gt;Descent: varies, with some routes requiring a scramble back into Avalanche Couloir, or down to the Capre Diem rap station (50m, Avalanche Couloir). There is a rap station above The Way (30m)." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="University Buttress is the area immediately L of Avalanche Couloir. Its RH end presents a narrow, vertical face of clean rock. The LH end is of less interest and is broken into a complex of minor features. Splitting the RH end is a strikingly broad 60m high corner (Ozymandias), a feature that is easily discernible from the Organ Pipes Track." name="University Buttress" rock="Broken dolerite buttresses up to 60m" sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="9">The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="10">This buttress is a bit of effort to get to, but has some excellent climbing. Continue L from Two Angry Young Men up a rough track to another orange and black streaked buttress, which overlooks Fool's Couloir. Descent for the following four routes is by abseil from rap station above The Way (30m).</text>
  <climb extra="8Þ ↓" grade="22" length="20m" name="The Truth" number="1." stars="*" id="16" fa="R. Parkyn, Nov 1994.">Un-obvious, bizarre and interesting. This route starts 2m L of The Way and follows the seam and bulge just R of the arete. Finish at DBB on the ledge at the end of pitch one of The Way. Fully bolted.</climb>
  <climb extra="10Þ ↓" grade="23" length="30m" name="The Way" number="TW2." stars="**" id="15" fa="R. Parkyn, Oct 1994.">Pumpy face climbing up a slightly overhanging wall 10m L of The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly. 1. 20m 23. Quite a tricky start. The difficulty (but not necessarily the pump) decreases with height. Can also be done by traversing R after the first U-bolt and climbing a crack-line to the R (clipping the U-bolts by reaching L) then re-joining the route between the 3rd and 4th bolts. It's a pleasant enough variation, and one or two grades easier, but avoids the meatiest part of the route. 2. 10m 20. Ascend the corner and face above to the rap station (the 2nd U-bolt on this pitch is not visible from below).</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ ↓" grade="23" length="35m" name="The Light" number="3." stars="*" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, Mar 1995.">Start on the face between The Way and TGTETU. Technical climbing past three U-bolts leads to a crack, about grade 18 to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="The Good, The Excellent and The Ugly" number="GE4." stars="*" id="13" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.">Takes the line on the R and front of the buttress. Climb the finger crack to the bulge, surmount this (crux), and continue up the dirty RH crack above to the top. Abseil off.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="125m" name="Prodigal" number="5." stars="" id="12" fa="G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Nov 1981.">A rambling route with sketchy route details that starts at TGTETU, traverses R, crosses TAYM and finishes up L of Sisyphus. Scramble L up the vegetated ramp to the base of the buttress. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m. A long traverse up and R over grassy ledges leads to a short crack below a big grassy ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 10m. Up the crack and move R past TAYM pitch 2, to belay on the ledge below two easy cracks. &lt;br/&gt;3. 25m. Climb the cracks, taking the R one near the top. Scramble up to the small buttress with a thin clean crack. &lt;br/&gt;4. 15m. Crux. Climb the enjoyable crack. &lt;br/&gt;5. 40m. Follow the ridge easily until one can scramble down into Fool's Couloir (abseil at bottom), continue to the top and walk over to and down Avalanche Couloir.</climb>
  <text id="17" class="heading3">Ozymandias Buttress</text>
  <image src="UniversityButtressPrint.jpg" width="700" id="2" height="719">null</image>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="50m" name="Two Angry Young Men" stars="*" id="8" fa="N. Deka, M. Ling, Feb 1988." number="TA6.">Starts 15m L of Sisyphus underneath the black and orange streaked prow, with two cracks that diverge at a small roof. Takes the LH line. &lt;br/&gt;1. Trend R up the steep wall to the top of a loose pillar. Climb the hand crack above, past the roof and up the line to the vegetation. Move R to the nose and ascend this to an offwidth corner that passes L of a roof. Climb this to a large ledge below twin cracks. &lt;br/&gt;2. Climb the thin LH crack (crux).</climb>
  <climb id="18" name="Blind Faith" length="35m" grade="21" stars="*" number="BF7." fa="S. Edwards, Feb 1995.">Start 20m R and up from TGTETU, below a nose of rock. Climb the steep wall (crux) to an easier crack. Finish up the hand-crack on the L side of the nose. Abseil off a bollard (take your own sling).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="55m" name="Sisyphus" number="SI8." stars="" id="7" fa="P. Robinson, D. Drake, Feb 1982.">Starts on the south side of the Triclinicity buttress. From Triclinicity go L to the prow and around L for 6m to a gully. Scramble up the gully over pineapple grass to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Up the clean chimney-crack to the top of the buttress. Climb the black-streaked grooves up the wall directly above the chimney, and belay on a large grassy ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Climb the blocks to a crack on the L, which is climbed to the top. Abseil off (tape) or scramble L to pitches 4 and 5 of Prodigal.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="70m" name="Pete&apos;s Power Plummet" number="PP9." stars="*" id="6" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1992 (to within 5m of the top).">The scene of a 30m factor 2 power dive. Starts on the front of the Triclinicity buttress. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Climb the hand crack up the front of the buttress. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Up the nice looking but a bit lichenous wall, then the corner above, stepping L at the roof to a good belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Up the steep hand crack in the corner, then step L and up the mossy ledges and corner to the top. This pitch is not actually a doddle as sometimes reported, and is worth protecting in case of a slip. The normal method of descent, for normal people, is by abseil (tape) or by traversing across to the rap station above Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="Triclinicity" stars="" id="5" fa="P. Robinson, K. Bischoff, Mar 1981." number="10.">A total pile of choss. Check your life insurance policy before starting. On the buttress 8m L of Ozymandias, at the corner crack on the LH end that exits through a small overhang. Up the corner, jam through the roof and continue to the top. If you haven't died, descend by climbing down the other side.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="60m" name="Ozymandias" number="OZ11." stars="*" id="4" fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, R. Williams, Oct 1966.">"Two vast and trunkless legs of stone stand, with wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command." The big lichenous corner on the front of the buttress provides a thorough work out. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Climb the corner and belay at a small stance above the bulge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Continue up the corner, taking care not to come a cropper on the moss and lichen.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="60m" name="Blank Generation" stars="***" id="3" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978." number="BG12.">No intellectual ability required, just pure grunt. This pumpy number heads up up the steep RH wall of Ozymandias. &lt;br/&gt;1. 22 Up and R into the varied crack, following this to ledge. Belay out R as for Chancellor Direct on ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20 Back L onto arête. Around this (crux) then follow crack system up and R through rooflet. Descend from Carpe Diem anchors.</climb>