Versions Compared


  • This line was added.
  • This line was removed.
  • Formatting was changed.
Comment: Guide edited
<guide version="3">
  <header autonumber="true" camping="" walk="20 min" sun="Morning sun" rock="Broken dolerite buttresses up to 60m" intro="University Buttress is farthest left major Organ Pipes buttress. The LH end is of less interest and is broken into a complex of minor features. Its RH end presents a narrow, vertical face of clean rock. Splitting the RH end is Ozymandius, a strikingly broad 60m high corner that is easily discernible from the Organ Pipes Track. &lt;br/&gt;Avalanche Couloir is the prominent couloir immediately R of Ozymandius that splits University and Bulging Buttresses. It offers a mixture of shorter length trad and sport routes. The couloir is divided into sunny (LH) and shady (RH) sides and has L and R forks near the top. It also offers a route down from the top of the LH end of the Pipes for those climbers who still prefer this old school method of descent." history="" acknowledgement="" name="University Buttress" id="101" access="Approach via the Bulging Buttress/University Buttress track, which is signposted from the Organ Pipes track. The track climbs uphill to meet the base of Bulging Buttress, traverses left around the prow, then across and up to enter Avalanche Couloir. A rock platform has been constructed under Chancellor Direct a line on the LH wall and this route is a handy reference for locating other climbs. For routes on University Buttress go down left around the arete. For routes in Avalanche Couloir head uphill from Chancellor.&lt;br/&gt;Descent varies, with some routes requiring a scramble back into Avalanche Couloir, or across to the Carpe Diem rap station (50m). There are other rap anchors on Terra Nullis (30m), Kwang Ha Lantern (20m), and Torre (8m). To descend other routes make your way to the head of couloir and walk down the couloir itself. Apart from a short dowclimb near the top the descent is straightforward." idacknowledgement="101" namehistory="" intro="University Buttress is farthest left major Organ Pipes buttress. The LH end is of less interest and is broken into a complex of minor features. Its RH end presents a narrow, vertical face of clean rock. Splitting the RH end is Ozymandius, a strikingly broad 60m high corner that is easily discernible from the Organ Pipes Track. &lt;br/&gt;Avalanche Couloir is the prominent couloir immediately R of Ozymandius that splits University and Bulging Buttresses. It offers a mixture of shorter length trad and sport routes. The couloir is divided into sunny (LH) and shady (RH) sides and has L and R forks near the top. It also offers a route down from the top of the LH end of the Pipes for those climbers who still prefer this old school method of descent." rock="Broken dolerite buttresses up to 60m" sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="117">University Buttress</text>
  <image id="119" legendysrc="14university-left-2.jpg" legendxwidth="14900" legendheight="true815" legendTitle="University Buttress" heightlegend="815true" widthlegendx="90014" srclegendy="university-left-2.jpg14">
      <path id="30272" linkedTo="105points="443,662, 428,581, 432,511, 418,400, 416,348,belay" d="M443,662C437,629.6 430.0376629996043,608.9715557218408 428,581C425.9623370003957,553.0284442781592 433.547125487271,539.0029713196053 432,511C430.452874512729,482.9970286803947 420.03345440388386,420.715816739567 418,400C415.96654559611613,379.284183260433 416.8,368.8 416,348" points="443,662, 428,581, 432,511, 418,400, 416,348,belaylinkedTo="105"/>
      <path id="7607" linkedTopoints="104566,702, 524,430, 479,310, 427,122,belay" d="M566,702C549.1999999999999,593.2 535.1072095566352,480.04627754254045 524,430C512.8927904433648,379.95372245745955 494.3992113780591,358.8964649942494 479,310C463.6007886219409,261.1035350057506 447.8,197.20000000000002 427,122" pointslinkedTo="566,702, 524,430, 479,310, 427,122,belay104"/>
      <path id="46370" linkedTo="103points="719,710, 665,525, 629,434, 601,365, 575,310,belay 552,264, 527,250, 511,195, 493,109,belay" d="M719,710C697.4,636 677.1357127224012,562.2161856820302 665,525C652.8642872775988,487.7838143179698 640.0622065517284,461.65551637932105 629,434C617.9377934482716,406.34448362067894 610.71589241877,387.31056777643476 601,365C591.28410758123,342.68943222356523 583.9794383259081,328.5086381819737 575,310C566.0205616740919,291.4913618180263 559.159779258077,272.9497240725963 552,264C544.840220741923,255.0502759274037 532.8547056622689,259.8530412365014 527,250C521.1452943377311,240.14695876349864 516.3709377651453,217.27359484957324 511,195C505.6290622348547,172.72640515042676 500.2,143.4 493,109" points="719,710, 665,525, 629,434, 601,365, 575,310,belay 552,264, 527,250, 511,195, 493,109,belaylinkedTo="103"/>
      <path id="18250" linkedTopoints="106350,715, 354,426, 394,345,belay" d="M350,715C351.6,599.4 349.73289518897593,461.8824722745205 354,426C358.26710481102407,390.1175277254795 385.876694251717,368.7067902449891 394,345" pointslinkedTo="350,715, 354,426, 394,345,belay106"/>
      <path id="65346" points="395,345, 404,283, 382,188, 373,183,belay 358,150,belay" d="M395,345C403.123305748283,321.2932097550109 406.0679488101519,307.97445870721907 404,283C401.9320511898481,258.02554129278093 383.2194093730365,191.9335786226985 382,188C380.7805906269635,184.0664213773015 375.19911773488394,186.48193641356627 373,183C370.80088226511606,179.51806358643373 364,163.2 358,150" points="395,345, 404,283, 382,188, 373,183,belay 358,150,belay"/>
  <climb id="108" name="Two Angry Young Men" faid="N. Deka, M. Ling, Feb 1988.108" starsnumber="*1." lengthextra="50m" grade="21" extralength="50m" numberstars="1.*" fa="N. Deka, M. Ling, Feb 1988.">Starts 15m L of Sisyphus underneath the black and orange streaked prow, with two cracks that diverge at a small roof. Takes the LH line. &lt;br/&gt;1. Trend R up the steep wall to the top of a loose pillar. Climb the hand crack above, past the roof and up the line to the vegetation. Move R to the nose and ascend this to an offwidth corner that passes L of a roof. Climb this to a large ledge below twin cracks. &lt;br/&gt;2. Climb the thin LH crack (crux).</climb>
  <climb idname="107Sisyphus" nameid="Sisyphus107" fanumber="P. Robinson, D. Drake, Feb 1982.2." starsextra="" lengthgrade="55m16" gradelength="1655m" extrastars="" numberfa="2.P. Robinson, D. Drake, Feb 1982.">Starts on the south side of the Triclinicity buttress. From Triclinicity go L to the prow and around L for 6m to a gully. Scramble up the gully over pineapple grass to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Up the clean chimney-crack to the top of the buttress. Climb the black-streaked grooves up the wall directly above the chimney, and belay on a large grassy ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Climb the blocks to a crack on the L, which is climbed to the top. Abseil off (tape) or scramble L to pitches 4 and 5 of Prodigal.</climb>
  <climb id="106" name="Pete&apos;s Power Plummet" id="106" number="3." extra="" grade="19" length="70m" stars="*" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1992 (to within 5m of the top)." stars="*" length="70m" grade="19" extra="" number="3.">The scene of a 30m factor 2 power dive. Starts on the front of the Triclinicity buttress. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Climb the hand crack up the front of the buttress. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Up the nice looking but a bit lichenous wall, then the corner above, stepping L at the roof to a good belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Up the steep hand crack in the corner, then step L and up the mossy ledges and corner to the top. This pitch is not actually a doddle as sometimes reported, and is worth protecting in case of a slip. The normal method of descent, for normal people, is by abseil (tape) or by traversing across to the rap station above Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb idname="122Cleavage" nameid="Cleavage122" fanumber="O. Gervasoni, T. McKenny,  Feb 2015.4." starsextra="*" lengthgrade="20m18" gradelength="1820m" extrastars="*" numberfa="4.O. Gervasoni, T. McKenny,  Feb 2015.">Climb steep and clean cracks just L of the Triclinicity corner and move around L arête onto a good ledge at half height. Ponder then commit to the delicate crux sequence moving up and back R to regain the arête and the undercling crack above. Hopefully you remembered to place high gear before that move L, and have a #1 Cam for that undercling crack. Rap from DBB (20m).</climb>
  <climb name="Triclinicity" id="105" namenumber="Triclinicity5." faextra="P. Robinson, K. Bischoff, Mar 1981." starsgrade="18" length="20m" gradestars="18" extrafa="P. Robinson, K. Bischoff, " number="5Mar 1981.">Character>Strenuous, character building trad climbing that is conservative for the grade! The loose rock that once marred this route has now mostly departed. Six metres left of Ozymandias is a right facing corner crack that exits through a small overhang. Up the corner, jam through the bulge and continue energetically up through the groove. Just below the top, traverse left 2m to Cleavage DBB - (20m).</climb>
  <climb id="121" name="Wide Boy" faid="R. Parkyn, O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015.  121" starsnumber="*6." lengthextra="24m" grade="23" extralength="24m" numberstars="6.*" fa="R. Parkyn, O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015.  ">The wide crack (cleft?) 3m left of Ozy provides some nice technical stemming. Take a standard rack from Wires up to #4 Camalot (a single set may suffice). Two U's allow it to be climbed by those who don't own a #5 and a #6 Camalot (or who aren't packing them on the day!). Rap the route (25m) to descend.</climb>
  <climb name="Ozymandias" id="104" namenumber="Ozymandias" 7." extra="" grade="16" length="60m" stars="*" fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, R. Williams, Oct 1966." stars="*" length="60m" grade="16" extra="" number="7.">"Two vast and trunkless legs of stone stand, with wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command." The big lichenous corner on the front of the buttress provides a thorough work out. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Climb the corner and belay at a small stance above the bulge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Continue up the corner, taking care not to come a cropper on the moss and lichen.</climb>
  <climb id="103" name="Blank Generation" faid="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.103" starsnumber="***8." lengthextra="60m" grade="22" extralength="60m" numberstars="8.***" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.">No intellectual ability required, just pure grunt. This pumpy number heads up up the steep RH wall of Ozymandias. &lt;br/&gt;1. 22. Up and R into the varied crack, following this to ledge. Belay out R as for Chancellor Direct on ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20. Back L onto arête. Around this then follow crack system up and R through rooflet. Continue up crack above (crux) to ledge. Up short wall and trend R across blocks to Carpe Diem anchors.</climb> 
  <image id="37" legendysrc="11university-buttress.jpg" legendxwidth="11900" legendheight="true1563" legendTitle="University Buttress Avalanche Couloir" heightlegend="1563true" widthlegendx="90011" srclegendy="university-buttress.jpg11">
      <path id="25568" linkedTo="21points="717,1494, 666,948, 622,816, 568,690,belay 562,653, 573,512, 571,396, 550,192, 569,135,belay" d="M717,1494C696.6,1275.6 673.7229749595045,1003.1176528688846 666,948C658.2770250404955,892.8823471311153 641.4709119494075,867.2601559484403 622,816C602.5290880505925,764.7398440515597 573.1792747052913,704.0703629493745 568,690C562.8207252947087,675.9296370506255 561.5790050514971,667.9874201667043 562,653C562.4209949485029,638.0125798332957 571.3758513728594,558.378466352791 573,512C574.6241486271406,465.6215336472091 574.3269132797197,442.2874891091451 571,396C567.6730867202802,349.7125108908549 550.1841578899758,216.03260464185186 550,192C549.8158421100242,167.96739535814814 561.4,157.8 569,135" linkedTo="21"/>
      <path id="58652" points="717849,14941015, 666814,948839, 622806,816706, 568784,690595,belay 562771,653492, 573742,512358, 571711,396243, 550671,192205, 569632,135145,belaylower"/>       <path id="58652" linkedTo="24" d="M849,1015C835,944.6 821.3458314925166,891.7874867718056 814,839C806.6541685074834,786.2125132281944 811.5236122129465,750.9253793319655 806,706C800.4763877870534,661.0746206680345 790.7027218096848,635.9823562077875 784,595C777.2972781903152,554.0176437922125 778.2462841827412,532.8897464597538 771,492C763.7537158172588,451.1102535402461 753.1605600777226,404.316324322549 742,358C730.8394399222774,311.683675677451 720.289653787242,263.0185497105355 711,243C701.710346212758,222.9814502894645 684.8504308994238,222.18154719169038 671,205C657.1495691005762,187.81845280830961 647.6,169 632,145" pointslinkedTo="849,1015, 814,839, 806,706, 784,595, 771,492, 742,358, 711,243, 671,205, 632,145,lower"/>
      <path id="94672" linkedTo="104" 24"/>
      <path id="94672" points="461,1480, 443,1090, 424,870, 426,677, 403,425, 410,186,belay" d="M461,1480C453.79999999999995,1324 448.34774558460526,1178.1655353137625 443,1090C437.65225441539473,1001.8344646862373 427.17520580382796,947.1388233518203 424,870C420.82479419617203,792.8611766481797 429.63929159040014,754.1183217965747 426,677C422.36070840959985,599.8816782034253 406.11495742533685,520.5902559900242 403,425C399.88504257466314,329.4097440099759 407.2,281.6 410,186" points="461,1480, 443,1090, 424,870, 426,677, 403,425, 410,186,belaylinkedTo="104"/>
      <path id="53361" linkedTopoints="105162,1553, 163,1427, 190,1182, 106,1148,belay" d="M162,1553C162.4,1502.6 159.20689400394016,1477.2586544477928 163,1427C166.79310599605984,1376.7413455522071 197.2556390102651,1217.5144435765607 190,1182C182.7443609897349,1146.4855564234392 139.6,1161.6 106,1148" pointslinkedTo="162,1553, 163,1427, 190,1182, 106,1148,belay105"/>
      <path id="39599" linkedTo="121points="282,1503, 288,1396, 302,1304, 302,1171, 300,1006,belay" d="M282,1503C284.4,1460.2 284.2776816889659,1433.0370671947894 288,1396C291.7223183110341,1358.9629328052105 299.6883324862595,1341.1517993279721 302,1304C304.3116675137405,1266.8482006720278 302.357038938901,1224.1988018962467 302,1171C301.642961061099,1117.8011981037532 300.8,1072 300,1006" linkedTo="121"/>
      <path id="86533" points="282116,15031556,belay 288119,13961457, 30290,13041424, 30280,11711404, 30093,10061373,belay"/>
      <path id="86533" linkedTo="122"  140,1347, 133,1305, 146,1261, 139,1176, 119,1145,belay" d="M116,1556C117.2,1516.4 122.39603929201772,1474.2414302517822 119,1457C115.60396070798228,1439.7585697482177 95.30109579503856,1431.2040532599242 90,1424C84.69890420496143,1416.7959467400758 79.4747742685611,1412.9288374344612 80,1404C80.5252257314389,1395.0711625655387 83.25152055389306,1382.2610554738016 93,1373C102.74847944610694,1363.7389445261983 131.36456752169275,1361.6802352131224 140,1347C148.63543247830725,1332.3197647868776 131.81462082479047,1321.99043484467 133,1305C134.18537917520953,1288.00956515533 145.14733521421772,1279.3322928943187 146,1261C146.85266478578228,1242.6677071056813 142.3453237054724,1190.3725018457332 139,1176C135.6546762945276,1161.6274981542667 127,1157.4 119,1145" points="116,1556,belay 119,1457, 90,1424, 80,1404, 93,1373, 140,1347, 133,1305, 146,1261, 139,1176, 119,1145,belaylinkedTo="122"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="17">Avalanche Couloir – Sunny Side</text>
  <climb id="20" name="Rebel Without Claws" faid="D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1990.20" starsnumber="9." lengthextra="25m" grade="24" extralength="25m" numberstars="9." fa="D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1990.">A top-rope problem because natural pro was considered insufficient. This route takes the difficult line up the orange face L of Chancellor Direct. Up thin face, through the roof and up the seam to belay ledge. Rap off slings or finish up Chancellor.</climb>
  <climb id="21" name="Chancellor Direct" faid="I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972.21" starsnumber="***10." lengthextra="60m" grade="17" extralength="60m" numberstars="10.***" fa="I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972.">A photogenic and thought provoking test-piece that attracts the crowds. This route starts at a conspicuous belay platform underneath the clean RH facing corner located at the foot of the couloir on the LHS . &lt;br/&gt;1. 38m 17. Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L. A strategically placed cam in the rope-sized crack on the lip can prevent a rope snag. Up the corner to belay at the top of detached pillar. &lt;br/&gt;2. 22m 16. Climb the delightful crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb name="Chancellor" id="22" namenumber="Chancellor" 11." extra="↓" grade="16" length="55m" stars="*" fa="M. Douglas, T. Terry, Mar 1967. FFA: Unknown." stars="*" length="55m" grade="16" extra="↓" number="11.">Takes the prominent corner line on the north face of the lowest buttress forming the L side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken R-facing corner about 8m up Avalanche Couloir on the L, as for Vice Chancellor. It is also possible to start up the short wall just R of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m, but it doesn't add much to the route except the possibility of a rather painful ground fall. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 16. Follow the corner for 15m, traverse L and up to small square ledge. Climb awkward crack to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m 16. Up the clean crack above. The move off the next ledge into the crack was originally aided. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb name="Vice Chancellor" id="23" namenumber="Vice Chancellor" 12." extra="↓" grade="11" length="60m" stars="" fa="G. Batten, M. Douglas, R. Mansfield, Feb 1968." stars="" length="60m" grade="11" extra="↓" number="12.">The big R-facing corner between Carpe Diem and Chancellor Direct, about 8m up Avalanche Couloir on the L (as for Chancellor Original Start). &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Up Chancellor to a stance. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;3. 20m. Climb out around the chockstone, and up the final corner crack.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="34">Routes on the Sunny Side of Avalanche Couloir are described from bottom to top (L to R). Descent for routes from Rebel without Claws to Piping Hot is from the Carpe Diem rap station (60m). It can also be done safely with 50m ropes and a short scramble. This abseil has a propensity for stuck ropes, hence the preference for 60m ropes. Walking up the gully before pulling your ropes eliminates the issue.</text>
  <climb name="Carpe Diem" id="24" namenumber="Carpe Diem" 13." extra="↓" grade="19" length="45m" stars="***" fa="N. Deka, N. Smith, J. Otlowski, Apr 1990." stars="***" length="45m" grade="19" extra="↓" number="13.">Seize the day by all means, but don't forget your RP's. The route is even better now that the big spike has gone. Starts up the pillar 15m R of Chancellor Direct and just L of Piping Hot. Scramble up to belay below the base of the pillar. Climb the crack for 6m until it is possible to step R onto a stance. Step up and back L to gain the base of the shallow corner. Follow the corner line for 3m before stepping R and up the edge of a flake to a niche and ledge. Climb the delicate wall over territory where the big spike once resided to reach a bulge. Gain the shallow groove above then proceed to the belay ledge and rap anchors (60m).</climb>
  <climb name="Piping Hot" id="25" namenumber="Piping Hot" 14." extra="↓" grade="20" length="30m" stars="*" fa="D. Bowman, L. McLeod, Feb 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Feb 1981. Alt finish: K. Bischoff, Feb 1981. " stars="*" length="30m" grade="20" extra="↓" number="14.">The shallow corner immediately R of Carpe Diem that is capped by a roof at 18m. Scramble steeply up to the start. Bridge and jam the corner to the roof. Move R under the roof (crux) and continue up broken corners to the top. Alternatively, traverse L at the roof and up the awkward crack (grade 18). Traverse around L to the Carpe Diem rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="26" name="Flying Dutchman" faid="M. Tillema, D. Klees, Nov 1972.26" starsnumber="15." lengthextra="62m" grade="13" extralength="62m" numberstars="15." fa="M. Tillema, D. Klees, Nov 1972.">About 1m L of the arête of Terra Nullius is a wide crack in the wall. After climbing most of the first pitch, it is possible to make a balancy traverse R to the rap station on Terra Nullius for a neat 1 pitch route. This variant might get a star if the black moss was cleaned up. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Follow the crack line. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Up the wall to the R for 10m and over scrubby ground to a large rock pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Climb either of the two chimneys above (the L one is Tweedledee, and the R one is Tweedledum).</climb>
  <climb id="27" name="Terra Nullius" faid="R. Parkyn, Feb 1994.27" starsnumber="**16." lengthextra="30m9Þ ↓" grade="21" extralength="30m" stars="**" numberfa="16.R. Parkyn, Feb 1994.">Pleasant arête and face climbing on the next conspicuous arête up the Couloir from Carpe Diem. The crux is near the middle.</climb>
  <climb idname="28Reindeer" nameid="Reindeer28" fanumber="M. Tillema, R. Tillema, Nov 1972.17." starsextra="" lengthgrade="62m11" gradelength="1162m" extrastars="" numberfa="17.M. Tillema, R. Tillema, Nov 1972.">Start about 25m up Avalanche Couloir, just R of Terra Nullis at a scrubby chimney veering slightly R. &lt;br/&gt;1. 27m. Straight up the chimney which becomes more difficult where it narrows. Belay a short distance above this. &lt;br/&gt;2. 28m. Up the chimney, veering slightly R after a few metres. Continue up to a large rock pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Climb either of the two chimneys above (the L one is Tweedledee, and the R one is Tweedledum).</climb>
  <climb idname="29Piledriver" nameid="Piledriver29" fanumber="S. Scott, A. Herington, 1988.18." starsextra="" lengthgrade="25m18" gradelength="1825m" extrastars="" numberfa="18.S. Scott, A. Herington, 1988.">The face R of Terra Nullis. Move R up face to gain twin hand cracks which are followed to a belay.</climb>
  <climb id="30" name="Non Gradus Anus Rodentum" faid="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Mar 2005.30" starsnumber="19." lengthextra="25m" grade="15" extralength="25m" numberstars="19." fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Mar 2005.">Not worth a rat's arse. Takes the "obvious" corner line just R of Pile Driver. A hand crack, an overhang, a steep corner, the odd tree, some lichen and a clod or two of grass thrown in – all the makings of a traditional Pipes classic. Tape abseil.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="31">The next two climbs are found near the top of the LH fork in Avalanche Couloir, on the only east-facing buttress. This buttress is obvious from the top of the Falstaff Pinnacle.</text>
  <climb idname="32Sphygmus" nameid="Sphygmus32" fanumber="M. Jackson, Jan 2000.20." starsextra="" lengthgrade="18m18" gradelength="1818m" extrastars="" numberfa="20.M. Jackson, Jan 2000.">This route follows the curving layback flake on the RH side of the buttress. Face moves lead to a thin finger crack and then to a steep layback. Finish via the easy crack system.</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Clench Your Fist and Think of England" faid="H. Jackson, Jan 2000.33" starsnumber="21." lengthextra="18m" grade="20" extralength="18m" numberstars="21." fa="H. Jackson, Jan 2000.">The other route on the Sphygmus buttress. The thin crack that goes up the middle-L of buttress, with an unusual crux move to gain the finger crack proper. The face section is quite sustained for its length. Finish as for Sphygmus.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Avalanche Couloir – Shady Side</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Routes on the Shady Side are described from top to bottom. The first two climbs are near the top of the RH fork of the Couloir on the south side, roughly opposite Rodents of Unusual Size.</text>
  <climb id="16" name="Protein Pill " faid="D. Fife, N. Ward, 1982.16" starsnumber="22." lengthextra="15m" grade="17 " extralength="15m" numberstars="22." fa="D. Fife, N. Ward, 1982.">A slab with a finger crack.</climb>
  <climb name="Hot In The Sun " id="15" namenumber="Hot In The Sun " 23." extra="" grade="21 " length="15m" stars="" fa="S. Scott, P. Steane, and a cast of thousands, 1989." stars="" length="15m" grade="21 " extra="" number="23.">A prominent finger crack that widens to hands, splitting a buttress just above and to the L of Protein Pill.</climb>
  <climb id="13" name="Kwang Hwa Lantern" faid="A. Williams, Apr 2000.13" starsnumber="**24." lengthextra="20mÞ ↓" grade="27" extralength="Þ20m" stars="**" numberfa="24.A. Williams, Apr 2000.">The face/arête on the L, at the top of Avalanche Couloir. Start on the sloping ledge, at the base of the crack to the R, step L to climb the face then continue up arête. Six FH and a #2 Camalot to DBB.</climb>
  <climb name="Torre" id="12" namenumber="Torre25." faextra="K. Robinson, Apr 2000.Þ ↓" starsgrade="*25" length="8m" gradestars="25*" extrafa="Þ ↓" number="25K. Robinson, Apr 2000.">The south side of the free standing pinnacle at the top of Avalanche Couloir. Two bolts with some natural gear lead to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="11" name="Rodents Of Unusual Size" faid="G. Cooper, Phil Jackson, 1989.11" starsnumber="26." lengthextra="20m" grade="16 " extralength="20m" numberstars="26." fa="G. Cooper, Phil Jackson, 1989.">Awkward and dirty, another Cooper special. About 30m further up the RH side of the Couloir from the Falstaff Pinnacle is a good looking hand crack. Climb it if you can.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="8">The next two climbs are on the Falstaff Pinnacle and appear to cover much of the same ground. Rap in for Two Little Angels, scramble up to the first ledge for Falstaff. You can choose how you get to and from the top, jump as per the Jackson lads or tyrloean as per Garry and Simon...</text>
  <climb id="10" name="Two Little Angels" faid="G. Phillips, S. Young, 6 Mar 2007." stars="10" number="27." extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="20m" gradestars="22" extrafa="Þ ↓" number="27.G. Phillips, S. Young, 6 Mar 2007.">In their dreams! Rap in and climb up the front face of the pinnacle, to the L of Falstaff in an awesome position. 4 bolts and natural gear (cams from small to hand size). Tyrolean to pinnacle to access it, or jump...</climb>
  <climb idname="9Falstaff" nameid="Falstaff9" fanumber="H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan 2000.28." starsextra="*" lengthgrade="25m19M0" gradelength="19M025m" extrastars="*" numberfa="28.H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan 2000.">Requires one amusing belayer-assisted move. About 20m up from Cecilia and overhanging the gully is the Falstaff pinnacle. The jump to and from its summit is highly recommended by the first ascentionists and is a good (if possibly a very rapid) descent option following the climb. Start at the ledge a quarter of the way up the pinnacle on the RH side. &lt;br/&gt;1. 22m 19. Climb a short hand/finger crack in the R-facing corner until a horizontal break at 8m leads out L to the front of the pinnacle. Climb the front face (crux) to a ledge 3m from top. &lt;br/&gt;2. 3m. To conquer the summit, stand on the shoulders of your belayer and don't cheat by taking the easy option around the back.</climb>
  <climb idname="7Celecia" nameid="Celecia7" fanumber="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981.29." starsextra="" lengthgrade="25m18" gradelength="1825m" extrastars="" numberfa="29.K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981.">Marginal and loose. Two thirds of the way up Avalanche Couloir on the R, a wall is split by a thin crack widening slightly at the top. Climb the steep crack, with a strenuous finish. A couple of bits have fallen off this one recently (2004) and the grade may be a bit variable! Scramble off to the R.</climb>
  <climb idname="5Breakaway" nameid="Breakaway5" fanumber="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967.30." starsextra="" lengthgrade="60m13" gradelength="1360m" extrastars="" numberfa="30.M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967.">The forerunner of Southern Crest and not as good. Start at the vertical crack in a shallow corner, not far above the first rock step in Avalanche Couloir. &lt;br/&gt;1. 17m. Climb the crack which widens into an easy chimney. Belay on the ledge where the route joins Southern Crest. &lt;br/&gt;2. 43m. Continue up Southern Crest from pitch 4.</climb>
  <climb id="4" name="Southern Crest" faid="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, Dec 1967.4" starsnumber="31." lengthextra="90m" grade="15" extralength="90m" numberstars="31." fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, Dec 1967.">Ideal for beginners looking for a taste of mountaineering. This route follows the RH skyline. Start 10m up the RH side of Avalanche Couloir, directly opposite Chancellor. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Take the natural line up the crest of the sub-buttress to a large platform. &lt;br/&gt;2. 12m. Walk to and climb the 5m block at the platform head. Follow a short ridge to a grassy ledge below an imposing wall with two parallel cracks. &lt;br/&gt;3. 10m. Climb up the wall using the cracks to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;4. 43m. Climb the short corner above to a large platform then up the greasy chimney. Climb the easy crack to a platform, step across the gap to the wall above, and climb the double crack. Follow the Bulging Buttress skyline to the top.</climb>
  <text class="textheading2" id="35126">The>Aperitif nextButtress</text>
three climbs are on the the east face of a <text class="text" id="35">This small buttress that is passedright ennext route to the basemain ofpath Avalanche Couloirnorth from University Buttress, downhill from Southern Crest and approximately 50m L of Cold Power/Heat Pump. Short the climbs might be but steep and pumpy, ideal for an evening’s exercise or if you want an easier alternative to the harder sports climbs. The first climb starts at the very toe of the buttress..</text>
  <climb id="36" name="Aperitif " faid="D. James, H. Jackson, Jan 2013.36" starsnumber="32." lengthextra="32m" grade="17" extralength="32m" numberstars="32." fa="D. James, H. Jackson, Jan 2013.">1. 16m 17. Start at the very toe of the arête and climb the weakness trending R up the loose face past several horizontal cracks, moving up R (crux) to some flakes that cap a section of orange rock. Up the flakes to large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 16m 12. Up the scrubby ledges above and L to chimney and cracks. Belay on ledge. To descend, rap from spike (tape: 26m) or (not recommended) escape via roped scramble to SSSSI track above. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb <text class="text" id="123127">A few metres north (R) of Aperitif and buried in the bush is a hidden secret, a steep black streaked wall.</text>
  <climb name="SunNo Stealer" Name Yet" id="128" number="33." extra="5Þ↓" grade="17" length="11m" stars="" fa="O. Gervasoni, BT. IkinMcKenny, Mar A. Adams, March 2015." stars="" length="14m" grade="19>The bolted line on the L. Neat face climbing trending slightly L to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="Sun Stealer" id="123" number="34." extra="6Þ↓" numbergrade="33.19" length="14m" stars="*" fa="O. Gervasoni, B. Ikin, Mar 2015.">Sustained face climbing on excellent rock up black streak upR centre of wallNo immediately left of 19 ShadesName Yet. Shares last bolt and DBB with 19 Shades.</climb>
  <climb id="120" name="19 Shades of Grey" faid="T. McKenny and O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015.120" starsnumber="*35." lengthextra="15m5Þ↓" grade="19" extralength="5Þ↓15m" numberstars="34.*">A few metres north (R) of Aperitif, buried in the bush, is a hidden secret, a steep, black streaked wall. Short it may be but pumpy and quality climbing. Upfa="T. McKenny, O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015.">Quality climbing up the wall and arête, trending L near the top to DBB. A mid size cam (3) can protect the initial few moves if you don't fancy bouldering up to the first bolt.&lt;br/&gt;The enticing yellow overhanging arête above is disappointingly (and lethally) loose.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>