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changes.mady.by.user Tony McKenny

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Comment: Guide edited
Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header access="Access to Northern Buttress is fromvia a track that starts at the climbers&apos; car park. Where itthis track meets the Organ Pipes track, continue drectly opposite and up the hill on the signposted track to Northern Buttress. The track first meets the cliff base at a prominentconspicuous areteprow. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The Dark Side is the cliff left of this areteprow which ends at Chockstone Gully, a rock choked couloir that leads up to the Notch.  The Lower Cliff is rightfound ofaround the aretetoe whereof mostprow ofto the moreright. popularRoutes routesthat are located.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Descent: Check individual route descriptions for details." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Northern Buttress is the last major buttress at the right hand end of the cliff. Routes here are shorter, often easier to find and sunnier if located on the Lower Cliff. If you are not familiar with the Pipes then climbing on this buttress is less likely to end in an epic encounter. start high up from the Notch are under the heading of Climbs from the Notch. Sentinel Ridge, one of these routes, starts at the notch and follows the skyline ridge to the very top of the Organ Pipes. Back down at ground level, routes on the Upper Cliff are accessed by scrambling right and up from the right hand end of the Lower Cliff.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;DescriptionsDescent: beginThere withare climbsnumerous atrap thestations lefton handNorthern endButtress. ofCheck theindividual buttressroute indescriptions thefor Darkside area. Around the toe ofdetails." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Northern Buttress is the prominentlast arêtemajor rightbuttress ofat the Darksideright ishand theend Lowerof Cliff where the majoritycliff. ofRoutes routeshere are found. The skyline ridge of Northern Buttress is split halfway along by a gap in the ridge called the Notch. When viewed from the Lower Cliff, Buttress Pinnacle is the knob on the skyline immediately left of the Notch. Routes that start right and above the Notch are described under the heading of Climbs from the Notch. Sentinel Ridge, one of these routes, starts at the notch and follows the skyline ridge to the very top of the Organ Pipes. Back down at ground level, routes on the Upper Cliff are accessed by scrambling right and up from the right hand end of the Lower Cliffshorter, often easier to find and sunnier if located on the Lower Cliff. If you are not familiar with the Pipes then climbing on this buttress is less likely to end in an epic encounter. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Descriptions begin with climbs at the left hand end of the buttress in the Darkside area. Around the toe of the conspicuous prow right of the Darkside, is the Lower Cliff where the majority of routes are found. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The skyline ridge of Northern Buttress is split halfway along by a gap in the ridge called the Notch. When viewed from the Lower Cliff, Buttress Pinnacle is the knob on the skyline immediately left of the Notch.&lt;br/&gt;" rock="Dolerite cracks, faces and ridges up to 50m" sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min uphill" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true" name="Northern Buttress"/>
  <image id="3" width="" height="976" src="northern buttress.png">null</image>
  <text class="heading2" id="51">The Darkside</text>
  <text class="text" id="52">The>Climbs in followingthis climbsarea startare onin the shade and leftall handstart sideleft of the toeconspicuous of the prominent arete on the shady side prow. From the toe of the buttress.prow, Traversetraverse left on a track at the base of the cliff then uphill tot he bottom of to a gullyrock containingchoked somecouloir large(Chockstone chockstonesGully). The first two routes start on the wall just left of the gully.</text>
  <image id="53" width="700" height="932" src="DarksidePrint.jpg" legend="true" legendx="510" legendy="20" legendTitle="The Darkside">null
    <legend>64</legend>
    <legend>63</legend>
    <legend>62</legend>
    <legend>61</legend>
    <legend>60</legend>
    <legend>57</legend>
    <legend>19</legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="64" name="Side Saddling Cheesecake " extra="5Þ ↓" grade="23" length="12m" number="1." stars="" fa="N. Selby, 2001.">Climb the face and arête Lleft of Jackson's Apprentices to a rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="63" name="Jackson&apos;s Apprentices " extra="↓" grade="24" length="11m" number="2." stars="" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Aug 1982. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, Oct 1982.">The>Short shortand steep. wallLocated on the Lwall aton the footwall immediately left of Chockstone Gully. Follow the crack system up the middle of the buttress. Abseilto froma rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="62" name="Chockstone Gully " extra="↓" grade="7 " length="46m" number="3." stars="" fa="Unknown, 1950s.">This route gives perhaps the quickest access to the Notch and Buttress Pinnacle, though it is often damp. Start at the base of the obvious gully. The huge rectangular chockstone bridging the top of the gully is Chockstone Slab. The first 30m of the 'route is mainly a scramble ending at Chockstone Slab (also encountered on the Labyrinth and the Chasm routes). Climb up the slab and continue to the Notch. Climb to the top of Buttress Pinnacle and rap station (50m).</climb>
  <climb id="61" name="Skyline Minor " extra="↓" grade="9 " length="120m" number="4." stars="**" fa="Unknown, but a route was made upcompleted to the Pinnacle by J. Peterson and D. Webber incirca about 1958.">A climb>An historic route with several variations that follows the crest of the Northern Buttress ridge to thefinish summit ofon Buttress Pinnacle. The route has many variations. Start at either the second or third chimney onleft of the south side of Northern Buttress. 1conspicuous prow. &lt;br/&gt;1a. 7m. (a) Easy Chimney: - The LHleft hand and less interesting chimney.(b) &lt;br/&gt;1b. Cruddy Chimney: -The more RHexciting chimney to the right. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Scramble easily up to the Rright and join the skyline proper at the Second Platform. &lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Skyline Traverse: - Continue easily up to the foot of the next prominent crack (Curving Crack) where the ridge steepens. RRight of this, climb up for 5m onto the top of a block on the ridge crest. An exposed traverse leads 4m across the north face to a stance on top of the Canopy Chockstone of Pulpit Chimney. 4&lt;br/&gt;4a. 15m. (a) Window Wall: - Up the face to the Lleft of Window Crack. (b)&lt;br/&gt;4b. Window Crack: - Up the crack on the Lleft wall of the chimney, continuing Rright and through Bottleneck Chimney to the Third Platform. (c)&lt;br/&gt;4c. Bottleneck Passage: - Squeeze through the tunnel behind the stance to the south side of the buttress, and climb 3m to the Third Platform. (d)&lt;br/&gt;4d. Bottleneck Chimney: - A narrow continuation of Pulpit Chimney. Belay above the constriction at the level of the Third Platform. &lt;br/&gt;5. 20m. Bottleneck Chimney Continuation:continuation - Straight up inside the wide chimney. At its top, cross over to the Rright of a large flake on the upper wall. Continue up airily on good holds until the angle eases. 6. &lt;br/&gt;6. 20m. Traverse easily up to the Buttress Pinnacle. Abseil from rap station on Buttress Pinnacle (50m down through Chasmchockstones).</climb>
  <climb id="60" name="Pelf " extra="" grade="18" length="10m" number="5." stars="" fa="E. Peacock (solo), Feb 1983.">The small buttress Ljust to the right of BollardCruddy Chimney (Skyline Minor) and justleft R of theBollard Cruddy Chimney. Climb the thin line up the Lleft side of the wall. Walk and down climb off to the left.</climb>
  <climb id="59" name="Pommy Slide " extra="" grade="20" length="10m" number="6." stars="*" fa="D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1987.">Shares>Sharing the same start as Pelf, this route is run out. Climb Pelf to the 2.5 cam placement and step Rright. Climb the Rright side of the block to the top. Run out. Walk offWalk and down climb off to the left.</climb>
  <climb id="58" name="Bollard Chimney " extra="" grade="15" length="10m" number="7." stars="" fa="Unknown.">The first chimney on the south sideleft of Northernthe Buttressprow, distinguished by a group of prominent spikes at its foot. Straight up the chimney, exiting Lleft of the overhang. Walk off Lleft.</climb>
  <climb id="57" name="Sorrow " extra="" grade="23" length="15m" number="8." stars="*" fa="M. Law, K. Carrigan, 1978.">The steep black streaked wall between Bollard Chimney and Southern Crack (Skyline Major) and Bollard Chimney that is often wet. Climb the wall directly. Scramble off to Lleft.</climb>
  <climb id="56" name="Great Pets " extra="" grade="23" length="18m" number="9." stars="" fa="D. Fife, Feb 1996.">Climb the thin face and cracks a few metres R of Sorrow. Scramble off Lleft.</climb>
  <climb id="55" name="Skyline Major " extra="↓" grade="14" length="93m" number="10." stars="**" fa="M. Douglas, T. Terry, Mar 1967. Piton Crack: R. Cox, R. Lidstone, 1962.">This climb is entwined with Skyline Minor, but follows the ridge crest more directly. Start at the lowest extremity of Northern Buttress. 1. 10m. conspicuous prow. Four alternatives lead to the first platform.&lt;br/&gt;1a. (a)10m. Southern Crack: - Climb the first crack on the left southhand side of the buttressprow. (b) R Hook:&lt;br/&gt;1b. Right Hook - Starts at the foot of Southern Crack but traverses Rright to join up with the Nose. &lt;br/&gt;1c. (c)The Nose: - Directly up the edgeprow of the buttress. (d)&lt;br/&gt;1d. Layback Crack: - The first steep hand-crack onaround the northernright side of the buttressprow. &lt;br/&gt;2. 13m. Piton Crack: - Up the cruxy vertical crack in the corner. &lt;br/&gt;3. 10m. Curving Crack: - Above the Second Platform where the ridge steepens is a conspicuous flaring chimney lying Lleft of the crest. Up this awkwardly. &lt;br/&gt;4. 20m. Traverse around Rright of thea small tower above and pass throughthen climb through the back of Bottleneck Chimney to thebelay Thirdleft Platformof on the southernskyline side ofat the buttress. 5Third Platform.&lt;br/&gt;5a. 40m. (a) 16. Climb the crack immediately Lleft of Bottleneck Chimney. &lt;br/&gt;5b. (b)9. Bottleneck Chimney: - Continue up the chimney (as for Skyline Minor) to the Buttress Pinnacle. (c)&lt;br/&gt;5c. Deception Crack: Climb directly up the crack on the Lleft from the Third Platform, then onto the summit of Buttress Pinnacle. Abseil from the rap station on the Buttress Pinnacle (50m down through Chasmthe chockstones).</climb>
  <climb<text idclass="54heading2" nameid="Jump Ship " extra="↓" grade="17" length="80m" number="11." stars="" fa="H. Jackson, S. Jarman (alt), Aug 1997.">A rising traverse that connects the lowest part of Northern Buttress to Centaur to make three colourful pitches. 1. 30m. Start at the layback option (1d) of Skyline Major. Climb this, then traverse across20">Lower Cliff</text>
  <text class="text" id="22">This section contains the majority of routes on Northern Buttress. The climbing consists of crack and face climbs up a steep wall and its sunny aspect makes the Lower Cliff a popular venue in the cooler months. Descent: There are individual rap stations for Raspberry Jam and Crackers, toAll theSystems R arêteGo and bridgeCentaur. acrossFor Andromedaother toin the All Systems Go buttress. Traverse across, mantle up and keep traversing to belay on the Pulpit. 2. 25m. Follow R-trending sickle crack of Reluctance to a prominent, protruding pedestal. Step on the very edge of this and bridge widely across Pulpit Chimney to Tearaway (crux). Continue up and around arête as for Tearaway, then traverse directly R across Conflict in the Cabal and Pegasus. From Pegasus, go diagonally up and R to reach Centaur. Belay 2m beneath small roof below hand crack of Centaur. 3. 25m. Finish up Centaur. Descent: rap station on Buttress Pinnacle, 50m down through Chasm.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="20">Northern Buttress Lower Cliff</text>
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  <climb id="54" name="Jump Ship " extra="↓"  <text class="text" id="22">This section contains the majority of routes on Northern Buttress. The sunny RH side has crack and face climbs up a steep wall, whereas the LH side is more broken. Descent: There are separate rap stations for climbs from Raspberry Jam to Reluctance, and one at the top of Centaur. For all others, climb up and R along the ridge to a memorable 50m abseil from the Buttress Pinnacle rap station (backed up 2007). The abseil descends in devious fashion through some large chockstones and directly down the Chasm. Alternatively (and much less appealing) is a 25m abseil down to the southern side of the Buttress from the rap station and scramble down into Chockstone Gully: a notorious place to get your ropes jammed.</text>grade="17" length="80m" number="11." stars="" fa="H. Jackson, S. Jarman (alt), Aug 1997.">A rising traverse that connects the lowest part of Northern Buttress to Centaur to make three colourful pitches. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Start at the layback option (1d) of Skyline Major. Climb this, then traverse across Raspberry Jam and Crackers to the right arête and bridge across Andromeda to the All Systems Go buttress. Traverse across, mantle up and keep traversing to belay on the Pulpit.&lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Follow R-trending sickle crack of Reluctance to a prominent, protruding pedestal. Step on the very edge of this and bridge widely across Pulpit Chimney to Tearaway (crux). Continue up and around arête as for Tearaway, then traverse directly right across Conflict in the Cabal and Pegasus. From Pegasus, go diagonally up and right to reach Centaur. Belay 2m beneath a small roof below the hand crack of Centaur.&lt;br/&gt;3. 25m. Finish up Centaur to rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="50" name="Raspberry Jam and Crackers " extra="↓ " grade="18" length="28m" number="12." stars="***" fa="G. Body, B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Dec 1972.">Elegant face climbing on the wall Lleft of Andromeda. Harder now as most of the crux handhold has departed. Climb the newly exposed rock in the Rright-facing corner past a fixed pin (2001). One metre above this, hand-traverse Lleft and up to a Lleft-facing flake. Climb delicately up the thin face above (crux) to a small ledge at the base of a diagonal short corner. Climb the corner, then reach Lleft and mantle onto a ledge. Layback onto a block and finish up the short crack above. Protection is spaced, but adequate. Scramble off the back or abseilAbseil from rap station (28m).</climb>
  <climb id="49" name="Frostbite&apos;s for Wusses " extra="↓ " grade="20" length="25m" number="13." stars="*" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jul 1997.">The arête Lright of Andromeda Raspberry Jam and Crackers and Rleft of Raspberrythe JamAndromeda and Crackerschimney. Gear difficult to place on lead, so pre-placed at crux on first ascent. Scramble off the back or abseil Abseil as for Raspberry Jam.</climb>
  <climb id="48" name="Andromeda " extra="↓ " grade="14" length="24m" number="14." stars="*" fa="Top roped by T. Christie, G. Wyatt, Feb 1965. First led by R. Williams, Mar 1967.">The>Once firstregarded majoras chimneya toserious theand Rinsecure ofclimb, thethis toeroute offollows the Buttress, once regarded as "a serious and insecure climb"first major chimney right of the toe of the prow. Climb straight up from the base of the chimney to a belay ledge. Continue up either of the Skyline routes, scramble off the back, or to abseil as for Raspberry Jam and Crackers.</climb>
  <climb id="47" name="Discipline " extra="↓" grade="20" length="32m" number="15." stars="*" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Dec 1990.">Contrived but surprisingly good climbing on the arête Rright of Andromeda. Climb straight up the arête past a small roof (crux), taking care not to stem across the Andromeda chimney. Climb the finger crack above and step Rright to continue up the wall just Lleft of All Systems Go to its belay ledge. DescentDescend asusing forthe All Systems Go rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="46" name="All Systems Go " extra="↓" grade="18" length="32m" number="16." stars="***" fa="R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, 1976.">Go, go, go. Advanced route- finding up the wall Lleft of the Pulpit. Climb up the crack on Lleft of the Pulpit, moving Lleft at 3m up the flakes. Directly up the centre of the smooth wall to the horizontal then traverse Rright to the top of the Pulpit. Two ways: up the thin crack before either (1) a step back Lleft leads to a finger crack: follow crack through small roof to belay or (2) from the step Lleft, traverse further to the dark streaked crack and climb up to the roof. Traverse Rright via the undercling to join the finger crack and up past sassafras to the top and rap station (32m).</climb>
  <climb id="45" name="Reluctance " extra="↓" grade="20" length="36m" number="17." stars="*" fa="N. Deka, J. Richardson, Apr 1980. Direct Finish: N. Deka, F. Moon, Jan 1989.">The wall directly above the Pulpit. Climb to the top of the Pulpit and then continue up the wall above following the finger crack. Step Lleft to a ledge and either bail out easily up All Systems Go or better, continue up crack and wall to the Rright. DescentDescend asusing forthe All Systems Go rap anchors.</climb>
  <climb id="44" name="The Pulpit " extra="↓" grade="13" length="10m" number="18." stars="" fa="Unknown, circa 1960.">The>Two short alternatives to Pulpit Chimney. Starts as for All Systems Go and that follows the large rectangular flake tojust the Lleft of Pulpit Chimney. &lt;br/&gt;1a. 9. Start up the short crack on the Lleft hand side of the flake, then traverse across the face of the Pulpit and then intofinish up the crack on the R.right Climbto thisreach andthe belay on top. &lt;br/&gt;1b. 13. Climb the short crack onand follow it all the Lway to the top of the Pulpit. &lt;br/&gt;2. Either descend or climb the wall above via a dog-legged crack onto a ledge which leads into Pulpit Chimney. Continue up the chimney Pulpit Chimney to Buttress Pinnacle rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="43" name="Pulpit Chimney " extra="↓" grade="12" length="75m" number="19." stars="**" fa="T. Christie, G. Wyatt, 1964.">One of the best beginner routes on the Pipes. Start at the major chimney Lleft of Pegasus. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Climb directly up the chimney past the detached chockstones to a ledge below the Canopy Chockstone. Move Rright onto the face and mantelshelf up onto a ledge from where the chockstone can be surmounted. &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Continue as for up Bottleneck Chimney (Pitches 4 and 5 Skyline Minor,) to pitchesButtress 4Pinnacle andrap 5station.</climb>
  <climb id="42" name="Pulpit Crack " extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" number="20." stars="" fa="S. Parsons, A. Adams, 1982.">Slightly contrived as it is possible to step Lleft into the Chimney at the crux. Starts towards the back of the Chimney on the RHright hand wall. &lt;br/&gt;1. Climb straight up the crack to belay on top of chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;2. Climb the finger crack in a corner on the Rright wall. Descend from Buttress Pinnacle rap station.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="41" name="Tearaway " extra="↓" grade="18" length="53m64m" number="21." stars="**" fa="D. Hain, K. Kiernan, Jan 1975.">Worthwhile>Thoughtful and rewardingworthwhile. The crack upin the RHright hand sidewall of Pulpit Chimney offers an excellent sustained pitch. &lt;br/&gt;1. 38m 18. Climb up the Chimney a couple of metres until you can step Rright into the crack. Up this and then follow a weakness up and around Rright onto the nose. Make a few moves up and then step back Lleft and up to the base of the Lleft side of the Great Flake. Continue straight up the wide crack, moving out Rright to climb up the arête to the top of the Great Flake. A #4 friend or camalot is handy for the belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 14. Continue up the crack on the right hand RHSside and through the bulge as for Pegasus. Alternatively, step ofoff the Lleft hand end of the flake and up the short steep wall to finish up Pulpit Chimney exit. &lt;br/&gt;Descent:Continue Continueup onthe ridgecrest to Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m).</climb>
  <climb id="40" name="Conflict In The Cabal " extra="↓" grade="20" length="45m75m" number="22." stars="**" fa="E. Peacock, L. Bottomley, Nov 1991.">Follow>No conspiracies exist here except perhaps the spaced protection on the top section. &lt;br/&gt;1. 45m 20. Follow Subterfuge to the vee under the roof then continue straight up instead of stepping around the arête. Continue straight up the face of the Great Flake to belay on top where a #4 friend or camalot comes in handy.&lt;br/&gt;2. Runners are fairly spaced on the top section 30m 14. From the top of the Great Flake finish up Pegasus and follow the crest to Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m).</climb>
  <climb id="39" name="Subterfuge " extra="↓" grade="20" length="45m75m" number="23." stars="***" fa="D. Fife, A. Adams, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.">The bold start is a great test for self-doubters. The line up the arête between Pegasus and Pulpit Chimney. &lt;br/&gt;1. 45m 20. Climb up to the thin crack which splits the bulge. Move up to a rest below a small overhang. Veer Lleft past this and climb the spectacular arête to the top of the Great Flake. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 14. Continue From the top of the Great Flake finish up Pegasus and follow the face abovecrest to theButtress PegasusPinnacle ledgerap andstation belay(50m).</climb>
  <climb id="38" name="Pegasus " extra="↓" grade="14" length="48m65m" number="24." stars="**" fa="Original route with LHleft hand finish:, Unknown ascentionists circa 1961. RHDirect finish:, T. Terry, A. Cross, Nov 1965.">A quality route on steep, clean rock. Start 4m toright the R of Pulpit Chimney at a squeeze chimney with two chockstones. &lt;br/&gt;1. 35m 11. Climb the chimney to the top of the huge detached flake. A #4 friend or camalot is handy for the belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 14. Continue directly up the steep crack on the R, past a ledge, and up the steep bulge in the corner to belay at the end of the difficulties. &lt;br/&gt;Easy scramble R along the skyline to the Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m).  belay.&lt;br/&gt;2a. 15m 11. Original Finish:finish Belay- onFrom the huge flake, then continue up the steep fist crack to the next ledge. belowBelow the final bulge but then traverse Lleft across ledge and across into the chimney Grade 11). Climb through the chimney to the other side and descend by scrambling down the back of the buttress with care. care.&lt;br/&gt;2b. 30m 14. Direct Finish - Continue up the fist crack to the next ledge, then up the steep bulge in the corner to the end of the difficulties. Scramble right along the crest of the skyline to Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m). &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="37" name="Xanthos" extra="↓" grade="19" length="48m" number="25." stars="*" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Feb 2009.">Takes>Sustained, asteep distinctclimbing and separate direct line up the face between Pegasus and Centaur. Some that some might see this as a mere construct, a gap filler, and so it is,... butThe theclimbing climbinghowever is surprisingly good and, in places, really steep. Takes a distinct and separate direct line up the face between Pegasus and Centaur. Protection is a bit sparse and difficult to arrange –requiring lateral thinking may be required in places. &lt;br/&gt;1. 33m 19. Start at the base of the cliff to the Rright of Pegasus and follow a line straight up the wall, keeping roughly equidistant between the two neighbouring climbs. Follow a faint arête to the Rright of Pegasus (crux) to a small spike when a step Lleft can be made to the top of the Pegasus flake. &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 17. Step back Rright onto the wall and trend up and gradually R,right keeping out of the Centaur crack. Up a steep wall past a good runner to the excellent finishing crack. Sustained, steep climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="36" name="Centaur " extra="↓" grade="17" length="48m" number="26." stars="***" fa="Some bits: A. Cross, R. Lawson, et al, Nov 1965. Other bits: J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968.">A Pipes classic. This fine direct line starts midway between Pegasus and Thethe Chasm. Climb up on face holds to the foot of a black groove then continue straight up the ever steepening crack through a small roof blackand groove,hand andcrack continueabove. straightContinue up the evercrack steepeningand crackover pasta the chockstone (crux) just below the belay at top. Rap top. Traverse right 1m to the rap station (50m).</climb>
  <climb id="35" name="Adventure before Dementia" extra="↓" grade="19" length="18m" number="27." stars="" fa="T. McKenny, A. Adams, A. Brooks, Mar 2009.">Takes the LHleft hand arête of the Chasm. Start to the Rright of Centaur and climb the face till it steepens. Layback the edge to the top (crux). Protection adequate but a bit sparse – RPs are the go. Belay as for Sideshow.</climb>
  <climb id="34" name="Sideshow " extra="↓" grade="18" length="12m" number="28." stars="*" fa="D. Fife, A. Adams, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.">Companion line to Crasm Chack which also provides a good alternative start to Centaur. Start Theup the thin crack on the LHleft sidewall near the front of the Chasm, which also provides a good alternative start to Centaur. Climb the steep finger/ and hand crack to a small ledge on the arête. Either abseil from the chain or continue up the Rright-facing corner, past the scary flakes (as in Crasm Chack), then traverse Lleft to join Centaur and so on to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Crasm Chack" extra="" grade="20" length="30m" number="29." stars="" fa="S. Parsons, D. Fife, Phil Steane, Nov 1982.">With littlesparse protection on the loose crux, the boys must have been feeling bold when they led this one. StartingStart inside Thethe Chasm on the Lleft wall, step L just right of Sideshow. Step left and up past loose holds (crux) to gain the thin crack line which splits the wall. Follow this and a line of loose flakes on the arête until it is possible to chimney up and belay on the large chockstones at the top of the Chasm. N.B.Note - A big rock has come out of the upper section (Feb 2012).</climb>
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  <climb id="31" name="The Chasm " extra="↓" grade="11" length="48m" number="30." stars="" fa="P. Sands, J. Spinks, 1960. Direct Finish: A. Bush, P. Robinson, Apr 1975.">A cavernous chimney splits the right side of the Lower Cliff, into which the abseil from Buttress Pinnacle descends. The route starts at the very back of the Chasm in the chimney on the left. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 11. Chasm Chimney: A fine chimney pitch giving access to the southern side of the buttress towards the top of Chockstone Gully. &lt;br/&gt;2a. 18m. Continue as from pitch (4) of the Labyrinth.&lt;br/&gt;2b. 18. Direct Finish. This pitch follows the continuation of the Chasm fracture to the top of the Buttress Pinnacle. From the base of Chockstone Slab climb to the top of a semi-detached flake on the R wall. Step L into the main V-chimney and continue up the crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="30" name="The Labyrinth " extra="↓" grade="9" length="56m" number="31." stars="" fa="Various stages due to T. Christie, R. Cox, R. Lawson, B. Potter, B. Proudlock, T. Terry, G. Wyatt, 1962-64. Stripper Direct: T. Christie, A. Keller, Feb 1966.">An amusing excursion with many variants that leads to the top of Buttress Pinnacle. The route starts at the very back of the Chasm at the dark chimney on the right. &lt;br/&gt;1. The Stripper: Energetic body-width manoeuvring in the dark, not suited to the portly. A narrow exit leads to the northern face at the foot of The Little Chasm. Climbs on Little Chasm Buttress arrive at the same point. &lt;br/&gt;2a. 8. The Little Chasm: Climb the chimney to the next cave. &lt;br/&gt;2b. 12. The Stripper Direct: Continue up the original chimney to a chockstone and then back to a stance in the Little Chasm, Godiva's Cavern. &lt;br/&gt;3a. The Little Chasm (cont): An interesting pitch onto the suspended chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;3b. Stripper Direct (cont): A diagonal chimneying traverse leads across the top of the Chasm to the base of Chockstone Slab. &lt;br/&gt;4a. Climb easily up the slab to the Notch. &lt;br/&gt;4b. Killer Crack: This strenuous crack lies on the R above the suspended chockstone. Above the crack a short wall leads to the Notch. &lt;br/&gt;4c. Chockstone Crack: Under the chockstone, on the north wall of the gully, overlooking the Chasm, a steep crack leads up towards the Notch. &lt;br/&gt;5. Balcony Traverse: A short traverse across the N.W. face of the summit block of Buttress Pinnacle to The Balcony, a large ledge 6m below the summit of the Pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;6a. Balcony Crack: A stiff crack leads directly from The Balcony to the skyline a few metres from the summit of Buttress Pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;6b. The Chicken Run: Traverse along The Balcony and back along the skyline.</climb>
  <climb id="32" name="Mira Mira" extra="Þ" grade="28" length="33m" number="32." stars="**" fa="N. Perndt, April 2013">"Mira mira on the wall, who's the fairest of them all?" The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm which links up to Vanity. A funky, bouldery start leads to a lovely technical head-wall. Stick-clip the first bolt and avoid the temptation to bridge across to the other side near the top of the chasm. Finish as for Vanity up to DBB. Fully Bolted, Grade to be confirmed.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="Vanity " extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" number="33." stars="**" fa="C. Shepherd, 1984.">A sustained route up the Excellence buttress protected by 4 bolts plus some gear. Start up the easy line R of the Chasm (approach from the R) to gain the L end of the blocky pillar. Move straight up the thin wall (gear then bolts) to the horizontal break, traverse R - reversing the Excellence undercling (gear) - and climb the RH side of the face (bolts) to the top.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="28" name="Excellence " extra="↓" grade="22" length="35m" number="34." stars="**" fa="S. Parsons, A. Herington, Dec 1982.">An exciting climb up the steep buttress to the R of The Chasm. Scramble to the top of a blocky pillar below a short R-facing corner on the R side of the buttress. Start up the corner but step around L and climb the face (little protection) to the small roof. Undercling L on the horizontal break and climb the steep finger crack to easier ground.</climb>
  <climb id="25" name="Little Chasm Buttress " extra="" grade="10" length="22m" number="35." stars="" fa="Little Chasm Wall: R. Bennett, T. Christie, Oct 1965. Opossum Crack: T. Christie, F. Morley, May 1966.">Three small introductory routes, which can be used to bypass the first pitch of the Labyrinth. Start at the base of the buttress below the Little Chasm. Three alternatives: (a) Opossum Crack: From the RH side of the entrance to the Chasm, climb the crack/chimney between the buttress and the main cliff. (b) Little Chasm Wall: Start at the L of two large semi-detached boulders at the front of the buttress. Ascend the boulders and continue, first L then R, to the top. (c) The crack to the R of the detached boulders.</climb>
  <climb id="27" name="Boy&apos;s Games " extra="9Þ ↓" grade="22" length="30m" number="36." stars="*" fa="R. Parkyn, 1992.">A popular climb up the front of the buttress R of Excellence. Start by scrambling up the gully to the right Little Chasm Buttress then back left to a DBB at the start of the climb. Follow the bolts to the small ledge, then negotiate the overlap with some tricky and technical moves, and continue up the face to rap station. Fully bolted. Use DBB at base of route to rap back to the ground.</climb>
  <text id="72">These next climbs on the Plomat buttress are reached by scrambling up to the right of Little Chasm Buttress. Instead of going left to Boys Games, go right which takes you to the base of Game On.</text>
  <climb id="69" name="Game On" extra="10Þ ↓" grade="21" length="28m" number="37." stars="**" fa="Roger Parkyn, Claudio Trefny, Steven Goss, Nick Hancock, Aug 2011.">On the buttress uphill and R of Boys' Games goingand leftjust to Boysthe Games,L goof rightthe whichPlomat takeschimney. youGoes to the base belay for the second pitch of Game OnCEMC.</text>climb>
  <climb id="6923" name="Game OnPlomat" extra="10Þ ↓" grade="2116" length="28m40m" number="3738." stars="**" fa="Roger R. ParkynMcMahon, ClaudioL. Trefny, Steven Goss, Nick Hancock, Aug 2011.">On the buttress uphill and R of Boys' Games and just to the L of the Plomat chimney. Goes to the belay for the second pitch of CEMCCloss, Sep 1973.">The chimney line 10m R of Little Chasm.&lt;br/&gt;1. 24m. Follow the off-width/chimney past an old peg to a good ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 9m. Continue up the tight chimney behind or over the big, dangerously loose block and out around the top one.&lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Up to join third pitch of Sentinel Ridge.</climb>
  <climb id="2365" name="PlomatCEMC" extra="Þ ↓" grade="1622" length="40m36m" number="3839." stars="*" fa=" RG. McMahonPhillips, LJ. ClossBresnehan, SepDec 19732010.">The chimney line 10m>Climbing Edge Memorial Climb - RIP. Starts 13m R of Little Chasm, 3m further up the slope (R) from Plomat. &lt;br/&gt;1. 24m. Follow the off-width/chimney past an old peg to a good ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 9m. Continue up the tight chimney behind or over the big, dangerously loose block and out around the top one.20m 20. Up hand crack for 7m till its possible to break out L to the face. Up this past 5 bolts to the ledge. Gear required #.5 #2 and #3 Camalots. Walk L along ledge to the arête. &lt;br/&gt;32. 7m16m 21/22. Up tothe joinarête. thirdIf pitchyou offinish Sentinel Ridge.</climb>
  <climb id="65" name="CEMC" extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="36m" number="39." stars="*" fa="G. Phillips, J. Bresnehan, Dec 2010.">Climbing Edge Memorial Climb - RIP. Starts 13m R of Little Chasm, 3m further up the slope (R) from Plomat. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 20. Up hand crack for 7m till its possible to break out L to the face. Up this past 5 bolts to the ledge. Gear required #.5 #2 and #3 Camalots. Walk L along ledge to the arêteup the 3m finger crack it is about 21 (requires #.4 and #.5 Camolots). Alternatively, if you finish up the face it is about 22. Abseil from rings.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="13">Climbs from the Notch</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">These routes are acessed from Buttress Pinnacle and are usually done after a climb on the Lower Cliff. They all start in close vicnity to the Notch which is accessed by an 8m abseil from the Buttress Pinnacle rap station into the Notch. &lt;br/&gt;2.Descent 16m 21/22. Up the arête. If you finish up the 3m finger crack it is about 21 (requires #.4 and #.5 Camolots). Alternatively, if you finish up the face it is about 22. Abseil from rings.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="13">Climbs from the Notch</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">These routes are on the Upper Cliff and are usually done after a climb on the Lower Cliff. Access either by rapping from the Buttress Pinnacle rap station for 8m into the Notch. Descent: As for Upperoff these routes vary. Yugi and Flying Grandfather have their own rap stations. Teenage Rockstars, No Longer Champions and Rosey Specs join Sentinel Ridge which is then followed to the top of the Organ Pipes. The best way off from here is to down climb nearby Exit Entry (see Rockaway and Amphitheatre area) or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station and walk back down and around past the Darkside to the Lower Cliff.</text>
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  <climb id="19" name="Sentinel Ridge" extra="" grade="14" length="70m" number="40." stars="***" fa="Unknown, 1962-65. Zigzag Crack: A. Keller, K. Sparrboom, May 1968.">An atmospheric alpine style excursion that threads its way up the pinnacle skyline of Upper Northern Buttress. From Northern Buttress. Best combined with a route on the Lower Cliff that finishes on Buttress Pinnacle such as Centaur. Abseil 8m into the Notch, scramble across the chockstone and up the crack opposite for 2m to a belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Hand traverse 4m Lleft to the base of a hidden corner. Up the corner, and chimneysqueeze tothrough a tight exit onto a platform. &lt;br/&gt;2. 16m. Step up and squeeze through to the back of a chimney in the right RHhand wall. UpClimb ver a bulge to gain the RHScrest of the ridge. Cross the chockstones and mantle onto a broad ledge on the RHSright to ofa pinnaclebelay. &lt;br/&gt;3a. 12m. Easier than it looks. Chimney Up the chimney and climb around the backleft side of ofa chockstone wedgedto betweenstand twoon pinnaclestop. andContinue up the chimney to exit Rright out onto a ledge. Easier than it looks. &lt;br/&gt;3b. 17. Harder than it looks. Climb the zigzag crack to the Lleft of wedged chockstone. Harder than it looks. &lt;br/&gt;4. 15m. Directly above is a tantalising gap in the skyline. Up, step Lleft and up to the top of a pinnacle. Step gingerly across the gap and climb up onto the belay ledge opposite. Scary, but the RPs help! &lt;br/&gt;5. 5m. Turn the pinnacle on either side (RHSthe right side is easier), descend carefully into the notch, cross it and belay on top of short pillar opposite. &lt;br/&gt;6a. 7m. Step Turn, face the city, slide into the body chimney, and traverse to the chockstone at the back. andFiinish finish up the dual handcracks. Combining pitch 5 &amp; 6a is possible. &lt;br/&gt;6b. 16. Harder than it looks and unpleasant. Climb up Lleft of the skyline to a platform some 5m below the top of the cliffs. Climb the choked crack on the right. The best way off is to To descend, down climb nearby Exit Entry or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station and walk back down to the Lower Cliff.</climb>
  <climb id="18" name="Tombstone Direct" extra="" grade="15" length="15m" number="41." stars="" fa="M. McHugh, R. McMahon, C. Viney, Mar 1970.">Take care on this old-school climb, or you may end up with your own premature tombstone - desperate stuff. Start as for Sentinel Ridge at Thethe Notch, directly opposite the Northern Buttress rap station, on the east face of the Tombstone. Up the short crack and the chimney above.</climb>
  <climb id="75" name="Yugi Crack" extra="Þ↓" grade="26" length="15m" number="42." stars="**" fa="G. Phillips, G.Rowbottom, Mar 2011.">On the east face of the Tombstone, as for Tombstone Direct. Climb the short crack to a small overlap (#3 Camelot), under cling out R and follow the thin crack line to the top.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="76" name="Flying Grandfather" extra="" grade="20" length="18m" number="43." stars="*" fa="G. Phillips, W. Bartlet, Feb 2011. ">On the wall and cracks opposite the main rap station. Mixed climbing, take a rack as well as your quick draws. Scramble over to the base of the wall from the Notch, (8m R of the Yugi Crack), and traverse R and up to gain crack in the corner, just round the arête. Up finger and hand crack through the roof untill it is possible to break out L (crux) onto the face. Up this past 3 bolt runners, finishing off R.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Teenage Rockstars " extra="" grade="19" length="15m" number="44." stars="" fa="M. Law, D. Bowman, Feb 1978.">Move up and Rright from the Notch to the north side of the Tombstone. Climb the steep widening crack between Flying Grandfather and Rosey Specs Crack.</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="No Longer Champions " extra="" grade="16" length="30m" number="45." stars="" fa="E. Peacock, S. Ford, Nov 1991.">A quaint pitch. Start in the crack immediately Rright of Teenage Rockstars, and about 15m lower down in some bushes. Climb the jam crack through a bulge and over a bush to a roof. Traverse Lleft under the roof to make an airy step onto a lichenous sloping ledge. Continue to top.</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Rosey Specs Crack " extra="" grade="17" length="25m" number="46." stars="" fa="L. Closs, B. Kennedy, Oct 1970.">This climb on the north side of the Tombstone was the scene of some early epics. Start a couple of metres above Thethe Notch where small holds lead 3m Rright to the chimney on the north side of the Tombstone. Follow the chimney past a ledge until a crack can be reached on the Lleft. Jam a couple of metres up the crack and then follow a line Rright to another crack that continues to the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="4">Northern>Upper Buttress Upper Cliff</text>
  <text class="text" id="5">Routes on this section of Northern Buttress are reachedaccessed either by scrambling Rright from the Lower Cliff or driving to the summit, walking down and rapping in (See Descent below). Hand Jive and Cascade Crack are best accessed by scrambling Rright from Plomat (aon the Lower Cliff route). The top of the routes between The Numbwaiter and Teddy Bears Picnic are located near the top of Sentinel Ridge. Abseil To access the base of these routes abseil in from the top of Sentinel Ridge down the line of Kakapo Corner. &lt;br/&gt;Descent: Either downclimb Exit Entry (see below) and descend gully to the Shipwreck (prominent viewing point under the Columns The best way off from the top of routes that end at the top of Sentinel Ridge is to walk back up hill to the summit. If you have accessed these routes from the bottom, either down climb nearby Exit Entry (see Rockaway and Amphitheatre area) or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station. (replaced in 2007, chains 50m) and bluewalk spot on the rock. 30m to Amphitheatre Ledge and Upper Cliff routes, or 50m back down and around past the Darkside to the GullyLower floor)Cliff.</text>
  <climb id="12" name="Drunks Dilemma" extra="" grade="" length="" number="47." stars="" fa="">A climb, Drunks Dilemma, was put up around here by S. Penny, R. Lidstone and J. Peterson, 1962">A climb was put up around here in 1962, but can't be located from the original description.</climb>
  <climb id="11" name="Cascade Crack" extra="Þ" grade="25" length="70m" number="48." stars="**" fa="A. Keller, J. Veasey, Apr 1969. FFA: E. Peacock, Jan 1994.">So named as a whiskered gentleman taunted the climbers with cans of beer throughout the first ascent. The last pitch, previously an old aid line, has been retro-bolted and freed. Start in the gully Rright of Plomat. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 14. Scramble up the gully, trending Rright, to a small ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m 14. Climb the gully/chimney, which develops into a series of wide cracks, to a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 20m 25. Traverse Lleft to a crack. Up the crack, then move Rright and up the corner past the overhang. Three U-bolts protect the first third (technical crux) then a #2 Friend or #2 Camalot, small "Rocks" and cams protect the very sustained upper crack.</climb>
  <climb id="10" name="Hand Jive " extra="" grade="18" length="8m" number="49." stars="" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, J. Otlowski, May 1989.">Not just a pleasant crack, but a nice face as well. Directly below Kakapo Corner, a small east facing buttress is split by a clean hand crack which can be reached by scrambling Rright from Plomat. Climb the crack past a bulge to the top of the flake, and then up the short wall to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Teddy Bear&apos;s Picnic " extra="" grade="19" length="20m" number="50." stars="" fa="P. Cullen, K. Rosebery, B. Kennedy, 1977.">Just Lleft of Kakapo Corner is an obvious corner crack. Jam very awkwardly up the crack gaining a few rests on small ledges. Continue as for Sentinel Ridge.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="Kakapo Corner " extra="" grade="21" length="20m" number="51." stars="*" fa="D. Bowman, L. McLeod, Dec 1977. FFA: M. Law, D. Bowman, Feb 1978.">Follows a shallow corner that meets the final pitch of Sentinel Ridge. Abseil to the ledge and jam the flake to the base of the corner. Continue past a short thin crux move to the top. Finish as forup final pitch of Sentinel Ridge.</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="The Nongs Are On Next " extra="" grade="18" length="35m" number="52." stars="" fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, Jan 1991.">Nongs beware. The third line Rright of Kakapo Corner, best accessed by abseil.&lt;br/&gt;1. 17m. Up the wide vegetated crack to a big bushy ledge with large tea tree.&lt;br/&gt;2. 18m. Surmount the large tea tree with difficulty or aid and then up the clean hand crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="6" name="The Numbwaiter " extra="" grade="19" length="45m" number="53." stars="" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, May 1989.">Wide but reputedly interesting. 10m Rright of Kakapo Corner, at the far RHright hand sideend of Northern Buttress, two facing corners form a shallow wide chimney. Climb the RHright hand crack until forced to chimney, then follow the LHleft hand crack to the top.</climb>
</guide>