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Comment: Guide edited
Guide
<guide>
  <header autonumber="false" camping="" access="This guide is included on Thesarvo at the moment as a historical record awaiting untilverification theof access issuesto arethe sorted outcrag. If you do visit it, then please try to negotiate with the owners of the land and access paddocks for future use by members of the CCT and wider climbing community. A reminder that these cliffs probably haven’t been climbed on for years and wouldwill needrequire extensive re-cleaning...  and that theThe bolts etc mentioned are now over 3530 years old.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Turn off the Midland Highway at Melton Mowbray andonto thenthe takeLake theHighway Lowerand Marshesafter Road6km totake thea right turn onto Lower Marshes Road. When it crosses the Jordan River for the second time, you will see a  About 6km along this road just after crossing a one lane bridge across the Jordan River, stop at the small white weatherboard house (green roof) on the right. This is owned by the Porters from whom permission must be gained for access.&lt You can spot Apsley Edge soon after leaving the Lake Highway. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Drive up and around the pines on the right, and then head back left up the hill across the paddock to the top left-hand corner. Park here.&lt;br/&gt;Cross the fence, past a tin shed and walk up hill to the ridge running south east. Continue up the ridge until a small col arrives on the left and a section of crag can just be seen in profile. Head for the crags which remain out of view around the corner (15 – 20 mins).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The cliffs are not on the Porter’s property and although the owner has givenprovided permission to Noel Ward back in 1981 to investigate the cliffs, itaccess ishas understoodnot thatbeen hisrenegotiated land will not be damaged. "since. " history="Discovered and conceived as a possibility by Noel Ward in 1981. He made one reconnaissance and then returned with Bob De Cesare to clean several lines. The Jackson family (Peter, Marcel and Hamish) went on the next trip when several lines were done, including Ward’s lead of the best line on the cliff, Shadowfax.&lt;br/&gt; Doug Fife visited the cliff in summer, repeated Shadowfax and added two routes, one solo. The general impression faded.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Then in the depth of winter which must be the worst time to climb there, Ward and Jackson began again. The definitive “secret cliff” syndrome became apparent, and over a few months a dozen or so routes were done Extensive cleaning was necessary, sometimes involving a whole trip. Fife joined forcesin, repeating several routes solo and adding the poorly protected “Winged”.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The use of bolts prompted speculation about protection. Soloing some of the routes obviated the point, and so a new grade was introduceintroduced, the “Seriousness Grade”. (Ed note: The Ewbank system of grading allows for comment on “Seriousness” in the route description but the Jackson version is included here for historical relevance).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The Seriousness Grade&lt;br/&gt;S1 – No seriousness.  Always potential for good protection&lt;br/&gt;S2 – Reasonable protection.  Wide range of runouts with good runners. Most climbs are in this category&lt;br/&gt;S3 - Poor protection. Runners likely to fail, impact likely. Very long runouts.&lt;br/&gt;S4 – Extremely seriousness.  All protection doubtful. Ground falls or similar probable&lt;br/&gt;S5 – No protection of any sort (solo ascents)" intro="A small south facing row of sandstone buttresses situated north of Apsley nearand thesouth Jordanwest Riverof valleyJericho. The setting is picturesque above a bracken covered hillside and topped by open forest with sculptural boulders behind. The routes vary in length from 10 to 30m.&lt;br/&gt;All the;&lt;br/&gt;The rock is soft, but not always friable. ManySome small holds are doubtful. and Thethe southerly aspect has produced damp conditions and veryresulted in lichenous faces requiring lengthy preparationcleaning forof new routes.&lt;br/&gt;Natural protection can be a problem except in wider cracks Trad placements in wider cracks are generally sound. Small crevices afford RP placements but their ultimate holding power must be assessed against the softness of the rock. Bolts have been used for protection on some climbs.&lt;br/&gt;It is hoped that bolting is not abused in the future. Even more so, it is hoped that the cliffs are valued as the enjoyable environment they were when discovered. Their charm and that of their surroundings add up to a local character and it would be a pity if the place became reduced to a careless collection of rock problems.&lt;br/&gt;Smashing of vegetation, boulder rolling and other “fun” activities could destroy a special place assessed against the softness of the rock. Bolts have been used for protection on some climbs, to counter this problem." acknowledgement="Based on the original guide by Peter Jackson, published for the CCT in 1982. " rock="Sandstone up to 30m high" sun="" walk="20 min" id="1" name="Apsley Edge"/>
  <image id="2" width="800" height="499" src="Apsley cover edited.jpg"/>
  <image id="3" width="800" height="535" src="Apsley 1 edited.jpg"/>
  <image id="4" width="800" height="1022" src="Apsely 2 edited.jpg"/>
  <climb id="5" name="Pergalen" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, July 1982." grade="20" length="" number="" extra="S1" stars="">“For bruises, sprains, bumps, contusions, muscle and ligament injuries”. Entering the bottomless off-width is the crux.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="6" name="Dormir" fa="P. Jackson (solo), Nov 1981." grade="5" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">A smelly chimney with a narrow strenuous exit once blocked by a chockstone which came out during the first ascent!</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="Stevenson" fa="P. Jackson (unseconded), Nov 1981." grade="17" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">The short off-width start is harder than it looks.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="20" name="High Fi" fa="N. Ward, P. Jackson, April 1982." grade="19" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">The" stars="*">Short but good climbing. The wall 1m R of Stevenson gives thin climbing to a bolt. Finish direct with a hard long reach to start. Short but good.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="Vienna" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, April 1982." grade="15" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">Starts>Photogenic. Starts low and trends up to R near the arête. A bolt protects the crux. Continue up R of a horizontal slot to a second bolt and finish direct on doubtful holds. Very photogenic.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Brûlée" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, July 1981." grade="19" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="*">Steeper>Recommended. Steep and more sustained. The start is gymnastic through the small roof. Continue straight up to a bolt runner. The crux follows for about the next 2m – steep, rounded holds. Recommended.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="10" name="Moxon" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, R. De Cesar, Nov 1981." grade="11" length="" number="" extra="S1" stars="">Straightforward corner to top.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="11" name="Aquajet" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, D. Fife, June 1982." grade="18" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="*">An elegant face which took an enormous amount of cleaning to reveal the possibilities. Despite friable holds, the climbing is very nice. 2 bolts with crux between them.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="12" name="The Wizard of Speed and Time" fa="R. De Cesar, P. Jackson, N. Ward, Nov 1981." grade="14" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="*">The first route done and a good varied climb.</climb>
  <climb id="13" name="Cinnamon Sedge" fa="N. Ward, P. Jackson, July 1982." grade="15" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">Short wall to rounded ledge. Through roof following obvious thin crack line with rounded holds forcing a crux near the top. Finish up Grainger.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="14" name="Grainger" fa="D. Fife, P. Jackson, Jan 1982." grade="15" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">The corner to the scoop. Poor arrangement of protection here could make the route S3. Traverse L, left which is awkward and tricky,. and finishFinish straight up on rounded holds.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Winged" fa="D. Fife, P. Jackson, N. Ward, 1982." grade="16" length="" number="" extra="S3" stars="">The crux is at half height where a move up slightly to the Rright uses some small doubtful layaways. Various runners are possible, including some unexpected cams, but the placements are poor.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="Face Saver" fa="N. Ward, P. Jackson, June 1982." grade="10" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="*">A fairly pleasant chimney which develops a good atmosphere and has an amazing jug above the exit.</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Sweat Hog" fa="P. Jackson, N. Ward, June 1982." grade="16" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">Not inspiring, despite nice finger jams at half height on the crux. Care is needed on the exit where protection is wobbly and rock more so.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="18" name="Shadowfax" fa="N. Ward in a brave and marathon effort. Ward, P. Jackson, R. De CesarCesare, Nov 1981." grade="18" length="30m" number="" extra="S2" stars="**">A brave and marathon effort by Ward. A sweeping line with an enjoyable and well protected crux at the. Climb up and through a bulge where the crack narrows. The upper sections are sloping and with the stillbenefit needof morefurther cleaning., this Thewill longestonly routeadd –to 30the mexperience.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="21" name="Nite Clubbing" fa="Al Adams, N. Ward &amp; G. Cooper, June 1984. " grade="19" length="20m" number="" extra="" stars="*">Best done after a big night out! Start up the hollow flake 2m R of Shadowfax, then move R below the BR to a shallow groove. Climb up past the small flakes to an interesting series of moves up to and past the next BR. Continue up the headwall to finish 3m R of Shadowfax. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="19" name="The Filcher" fa="D. Fife, N. Ward, Jan 1981." grade="14" length="" number="" extra="S2" stars="">Originally cleaned by Ward in an epic effort only to be solved by Fife. Jams to the off-width solved by a layaway.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="22" name="Runts will Grunt " fa="G. Cooper, N. Ward, A. Adams, June 1984." grade="19" length="20m" number="" extra="" stars="">A route for the longer person. Start up the mossy wall 5m R of The Filcher and in to a cave on the R. Move up past BR, L of cave and traverse L slightly to next BR. Follow line of pockets to top moving R to finish. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
</guide>