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<guide version="3" pagesize="500">
<header id="1" autonumber="true" camping="" walk="15 min fairly flat" sun="Morning sun" rock="Dolerite columns up to 30m high" name="Lost World" intro="The Lost World is located high on the eastern side of Mount Arthur at around 1100m. However, being relatively sheltered, it is often warmer than the Pipes. Retreat is also simpler in the event of sudden inclement weather. The Lost World is known for the steep and relentless nature of the climbing here. Mainly cracks but now some stunning arêtes and walls as well – there is now a mixture of nearly 50 trad and sports routes here, from grade 14 chimneys to grade 29 arêtes. The early first generation sports climbs at New World still have glued carrots with large heads and no rap stations... take some large hangers." history="" acknowledgement="" access="About 9.5km up the Pinnacle Road from Fern Tree a prominent sweeping bend turns back on itself. This is the Big Bend complete with small carpark (GPS MTW300). A number of smaller parking bays are available if the main one is full. Great views of Lost World (also New World and Test World) open up as you drive the last km to the bend. There are two ways to the crag. First, cross the road and the small creek and follow a muddy track past a track signpost for about 50m to a inconspicuous fork in the track. <br/><br/>For the LH end of the cliff, take the indistinct track off to the R (GPS MTW310 – track intersection marked by a rock with red spots on either side) and follow the increasingly obvious track with yellow paint splots through trees for about 10 minutes down to a boulder field and the top of the cliff. <br/><br/>For the RH end, don't take the R fork but continue straight ahead along the well-travelled path with red paint spots for about 15mins which leads over a small ridge then down to the RH end of the cliff."/>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Descent: There is a bolted rap station at the top of Hoot and Lactos, near the centre of the cliff. To find it, follow the yellow paint splodges to the scree above the cliff. Where the paint trail veers R, pick up a path continuing towards the edge. Once at the top of the cliff, head back L (north) along the cliff edge. The bolts are at the end of a reasonably obvious ledge, by a small gum tree (GPS MTW320). If you can not locate it, go back to the marked trail and follow the paint spots down the steep gully (GPS MTW330) that comes out at the base of Lost World at the LH end (south) between Incredible Journey and CC's. For the RH end (north), scramble down the gully near the end of the cliff line, R of Paladin, following the Red Spot path as described in Access. Descent using the central gully is NOT recommended - it is loose, muddy and slippery. Enough said.</text>
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<point height="0" pid="0" longitude="147.22193" latitude="-42.88512" zone="55G" northing="5251918" easting="518123" description="Lost World car park" code="MTW300"/>
<point height="0" pid="1" longitude="147.22253" latitude="-42.88471" zone="55G" northing="5251964" easting="518172" description="Start of Yellow Dot track" code="MTW310"/>
<point height="0" pid="2" longitude="147.22515" latitude="-42.88386" zone="55G" northing="5252058" easting="518386" description="Lost World rap station - Lactos" code="MTW320"/>
<point height="0" pid="3" longitude="147.22552" latitude="-42.88430" zone="55G" northing="5252009" easting="518416" description="Lost World southern descent gully" code="MTW330"/>
<point height="0" pid="4" longitude="147.22610" latitude="-42.88166" zone="55G" northing="5252302" easting="518464" description="New World" code="MTW350"/>
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<point height="0" pid="7" longitude="147.22177" latitude="-42.88298" zone="55G" northing="5252156" easting="518110" description="Micro World" code="MTW630"/>
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<text class="heading3" id="97">Lost World Left Side</text>
<climb id="7" number="1." name="Good Behaviour" fa="E. Peacock, A. Herington, Sep 1982. Direct start: O. Prall, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992." stars="*" length="25m" grade="18" extra="">If you're not on your best behaviour, you might get spanked! About 25m L of the southern descent gully are a pair of twin cracks with a 4m high rock finger leaning against the wall. The RH flake crack on the arête above ends at 10m. Chimney up the back of the rock finger and climb to the top of the RH crack. Undercling L to the hand crack, which is followed to the top. Direct start (originally called Dig for Fire, 21): climb the awkward tight and a bit vegetated hand crack straight up past the largish tree and into the easier Good Behaviour line.</climb>
<climb id="8" number="2." name="Electric Chair" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Sep 1982." stars="*" length="20m" grade="19" extra="">A steep fist crack that takes the next line L of Incredible Journey. Up the thin crack to a small roof at 3m and turn it on its R to a ledge. Jam the crack past a small wedge shaped chockstone to an offwidth move near the top.</climb>
<climb id="9" number="3." name="Incredible Journey" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1989." stars="" length="10m" grade="17" extra="">Just L of the descent gully is a short, steep hand crack in a shallow groove. Climb the crack past an awkward move to the top.</climb>
<climb id="10" number="4." name="CC's" fa="D. Gray, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992." stars="" length="20m" grade="22" extra="">On the R arête of the descent gully is a thin line that goes through a bulge and up the L edge of the prominent slab. Wires in the thin crack are good and the problem is best tackled by climbing the arête. From the top of the slab follow the easy yellow corner to top. Alternative start: Enchilada (15). Climb the big corner in the descent gully L of CC's to join up with the yellow corner.</climb>
<climb id="11" number="5." name="Tacho" fa="M. Law, G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978." stars="" length="20m" grade="20" extra="">The original route on the prominent slab 2m R of CC's. Climb to the L of the stepped roofs, up a thin crack, to below a bulge. Face climb up the L side of the bulge to the small stance on top. Straight up the slab, over the horizontal seam to the top (protect with a pin or a small cam).</climb>
<climb id="12" number="6." name="Black Cherry" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Oct 1982." stars="" length="25m" grade="20" extra="">2m L of Face It is a vegetated fist crack. Start 1m L of this crack (as for Tacho) and climb up trending R past the stepped roofs. Reach R into the crack to place pro before bridging and laying away up past the bulge on Taco. Once back in the crack, continue to the top, finishing up the final crack of Face It.</climb>
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<climb>12</climb>
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<climb>16</climb>
<climb>17</climb>
<climb>18</climb>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>20<<climb>108</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
<climb>23</climb>
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<climb id="13" number="7." name="Face It" fa="M. Law, G. Child, S. Parsons, Feb 1978." stars="*" length="25m" grade="20" extra="↓">Stare the beast down. The crack 3m R of Black Cherry and immediately L of a hugely vegetated corner. Climb the crack past two blocky ledges to just below the base of a small vee groove near the top. Hand traverse L and finish up a short crack.</climb>
<climb id="14" number="8." name="Quarryman" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Aug 1999." stars="" length="25m" grade="18" extra="">A vegetated corner that might require even further gardening. The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty. An epic clean on lead.</climb>
<climb id="15" number="9." name="Play Dirty" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978." stars="*" length="25m" grade="23" extra="↓">The lightly vegetated, thin flared crack 3m R of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above. A #4 Camalot make the top out more palpable.</climb>
<climb id="16" number="10." name="Metal Mania" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1992." stars="*" length="16m" grade="25" extra="5Þ ↓">Crank up the blunt arête between Play Dirty and Glam. Scramble up to bushy ledge to start just L of Glam. Many people break off R just before the top. Take a #0 Friend for above the last bolt if you want to avoid a long run-out past the more direct finish, which is slightly harder. Now with U Bolts (replacing the carrots).</climb>
<climb id="17" number="11." name="Glam" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Sep 1982." stars="*" length="17m" grade="19" extra="">The hand crack 6m around the arête R of Play Dirty and 25m L of Atlantis. This is the far LH line in the semi-circle of buttresses L of Atlantis and has a short diagonal finger crack near the top. Scramble up to bushy ledge to start. Hand jam to a small ledge, pull up on face holds, then follow the finger crack to the top. Rap off the DBB at the top of Metal Mania.</climb>
<climb id="18" number="12." name="The Space Of Disse" fa="O. Prall, Jan 1992." stars="" length="10m" grade="22" extra="↓">A glorified boulder problem. The discontinuous thin crack 5m around the arête L of Atlantis. Up the sustained crack to the horizontal then rap off at the bolt.</climb>
<climb id="19" number="13." name="Atlantis" fa="J. Friend, Jan 1975." stars="***" length="25m" grade="21" extra="">The tradster's testpiece. Not the best crack on the mountain (as claimed by Joe Friend), but it's pretty darn good. L of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and L of this is a fine looking, north facing crack line passing between roofs. Climb the crack through various widths, with the crux just below the top.</climb>
<climb id="106" number="14." name="Proteus" fa="K. Robinson, C. Hewer and P. Robinson, Jan 2014." stars="*" length="28m" grade="20" extra="">A continually absorbing route following the corner between Atlantis and Savage Journey. It can be climbed cleanly on the outside with good moves or, less preferably, by jamming with resultant consequences. Follow the crack until it widens and either lay off the edge, climb the arête or jam until it eases a little. A knee bar helps. About half way up either climb the L face or mantel shelf to reach a small ledge Continue to a short V-chimney and novel finish through a hole behind a large block.<br/> <br/> large block.<br/> <br/></climb>
<climb id="108" stars="**" extra="" number="15." name="Hejira" length="30m" grade="23" fa="H Jackson, S Joseph, T Smith, A Donaghue 2015">Climb first half of Savage Journey (grade 19 hand crack to this point), until a jug and BR can be spied on the left face. Swing onto jug and clip the BR. Breathe deep then take the steep, sustained face and thin cracks above (well protected: wires and small cams).</climb>
<climb id="20" number="1516." name="Savage Journey" fa="H. Barber, Apr 1975." stars="***" length="30m" grade="22" extra="">Hand... Off-hand... Fist... This will sort the crack masters from those who are not! On the gently overhanging wall R of Atlantis are two cracks, take the LH line. Climb the steep and ever widening crack all the way.</climb>
<climb id="21" number="1617." name="Cruise Air" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Apr 1982." stars="*" length="30m" grade="22" extra="">The RH crack on the slightly overhanging wall R of Atlantis. Climb the steep cracks, moving R at the obvious transition. Follow the crack to the top, which becomes offwidth.</climb>
<climb id="23" number="1718." name="Cheshire Cat" fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004." stars="***" length="25m" grade="29" extra="Þ ↓">You'll never quit grinning. The arête R of Cruise Air and L of Lactos.</climb>
<climb id="24" number="1819." name="Lactos" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1982." stars="*" length="22m" grade="21" extra="↓">The thin crack immediately L of a chimney just around the arête R of Cruise Air. Climb the steep crack line to a small ledge. Continue up a short corner to the top. Harder if you don't use the R wall of the chimney. Rap station at the top (on the R).</climb>
<climb id="100" number="1920." name="Hoot" fa="T. McKenny, D. Gray, Apr 2011." length="22m" grade="12">The chimney. Keep to the outside and finish off L at very top.</climb>
<climb id="25" number="2021." name="GP Project" stars="" length="22m" grade="" extra="Þ ↓ ">Garry Phillips project (2006) immediately R of the abseil line.</climb>
<climb id="26" number="2122." name="Carhookia" fa="N. Selby, 2000." stars="*" length="20m" grade="25" extra="4Þ ↓">Start 3m R of the bottom of Lactos (where the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="27" number="2223." name="Heavenly Head Job" fa="Phil Steane, Sep 1982." stars="" length="20m" grade="18" extra="">It gets the thumbs up from Bill Clinton. The strange looking corner capped with a roof R of Carhookia. Bridge and jam the corner which becomes progressively harder. Hand jam the roof, step out L (awkward) and continue to the top, or belay and rap from the Carhookia lower-off.</climb>
<climb id="28" number="2324." name="Stone The Crows" fa="L. Closs, I. Lewis, Mar 1973." stars="" length="25m" grade="18" extra="">A tricky start that can flummox newcomers. Found 10m L of the central gully and marked by a conspicuous clean offwidth crack. Climb the short steep wall (difficult to protect) and continue up the wide crack above until a ledge is reached. Climb either of the two cracks to reach the top.</climb>
<text class="heading3" id="98">Lost World Right Side</text>
<climb id="29" number="2425." name="Cloaca" fa=" D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992." stars="" length="8m" grade="15" extra="">On the southern wall of the central gully. Climb the hands to offwidth crack.</climb>
<climb id="30" number="2526." name="Drayton" fa="D. Gray, A. Hall, Jan 1992." stars="" length="17m" grade="21" extra="">A contrived tribute to a dead poet. Start via the bolts on Back on the Borderline, then move L and stem up the corner.</climb>
<climb id="31" number="2627." name="Back On The Borderline" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Nov 1990." stars="" length="17m" grade="20" extra="2Þ">Start on the northern wall of the central gully, about 5m L of Commoner's Crown. Climb the wall past 2 bolts, then finish up the hand crack.</climb>
<climb id="32" number="2728." name="Naked Flame" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992." stars="" length="17m" grade="23" extra="5Þ">The arête 2m R of Back on the Borderline. Follow the line of bolts, avoiding the tempting step onto the L wall. The third clip is pretty tenuous.</climb>
<climb id="33" number="2829." name="Commoner's Crown" fa="K. Kiernan, K. McConnell, Dec 1975." stars="" length="25m" grade="17" extra="">The hand crack on the RH side of the central gully. Jam to a large ledge and thug your way up the often damp corner to the top.</climb>
<climb id="34" number="2930." name="Cries And Whispers" fa="K. Lindorff, K. McConnell, Jan 1976." stars="*" length="25m" grade="19" extra="">The front of the buttress to the R of the central gully. Hand jam to an awkward rest stance between twin cracks. Move into the LH crack and up this (crux) to the large ledge. Finish as for Commoner's Crown - don't forget to keep some big gear back for the final crack!</climb>
<climb id="102" number="3031." name="Raiders Of The Lost World" fa="J. Fischer, C. Allen, 2007." stars="" length="25m" grade="16" extra="">The deep chimney to the R of Cries and Whispers. An old-school strenuous thrutch, completely devoid of any natural gear. Watch out for the large rolling boulder at the top after you steal the precious jewel...</climb>
<climb id="35" number="3132." name="Minstrel In The Gallery" fa="R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, K. McConnell, Jan 1977." stars="" length="15m" grade="19" extra="">15m R of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner RH crack (though it is still often slippery).</climb>
<climb id="36" number="3233." name="Blood On The Racks" fa="K. Kiernan, S. Karpiniec, K. McConnell, Dec 1975. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, P. Bigg, L. Shepherd, Jan 1982." stars="*" length="20m" grade="21" extra="">The short, thin crack a few metres L of Lost Wanderer. Up the crack past a thin section to a ledge. Continue L off the ledge easily to the top.</climb>
<text id="101">There has been a rock fall (2012) down the next line which has left the scree at the top near the popular Lost Wanderer belay very unstable and dangerous.</text>
<climb id="37" number="3334." name="Technicolour Zawn" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Jan 1983." stars="" length="15m" grade="12" extra="">The easy chimney/flake with the bush immediately R of Blood on the Racks. Caution - the recent rock fall may have changed this route - the top is very unstable and dangerous.</climb>
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<climb>38</climb>
<climb>39</climb>
<climb>40</climb>
<climb>41</climb>
<climb>42</climb>
<climb>43</climb>
<climb>45</climb>
<climb>46</climb>
<climb>47</climb>
<climb>50</climb>
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<climb id="38" number="3435." name="Lost Wanderer" fa="I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Apr 1974. Direct Start: L. Closs, Jul 1975." stars="***" length="25m" grade="18" extra="">Not hard to locate. The wall with two horizontal breaks about 50m R of the central gully. Climb the short crack on the L, traverse R using the horizontal breaks into the main crack, and follow this to the top. Direct Start (19): From the fallen block at the base climb directly up the front of the buttress to join the main crack. Not for the faint-hearted, as there is no pro and the landing on the rocks at the base would be rather painful if it all went pear-shaped.</climb>
<climb id="39" number="3536." name="Wander No More" fa=" D. Gray, S. Eberhardt, Jan 1992." stars="" length="25m" grade="21" extra="">The crack on the R side of the arête below Lost Wanderer. Finish up Lost Wanderer from about half height.</climb>
<climb id="40" number="3637." name="Gargamell" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2004." stars="**" length="20m" grade="28" extra="Þ ↓ ">The bolted arête R of Lost Wanderer. Delicately powerful moves with an engaging crux.</climb>
<climb id="41" number="3738." name="Hurricane" fa="Basil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb 1976." stars="" length="27m" grade="14" extra="">The chances of being blown away are slim indeed. 15m R of Lost Wanderer, around the corner, is an obvious chimney with three large chockstones. Chimney and jam to the top.</climb>
<climb id="42" number="3839." name="Great Southern Land" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct 1982. FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb 1986." stars="*" length="20m" grade="21" extra="">The corner with twin cracks above a scrubby ledge, about 15m R of Hurricane and around the arête L of Dyazide. Solo up past the scrub and onto the ledge and belay. Bridge and jam the twin cracks, finishing up the LH crack.</climb>
<climb id="43" number="3940." name="Endorphine" fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004." stars="**" length="20m" grade="26" extra="Þ ↓">The bolted arête to the L of Dyazide and R of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height.</climb>
<climb id="44" number="4041." name="Dyazide" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982." stars="*" length="12m" grade="17" extra="">The distinctive north-facing crack starting from a ledge halfway up the cliff, L of a wide corner. Scramble up to the ledge from the R. Jam the hand crack to an awkward rest in the sentry box, then exit using the finger crack (crux).</climb>
<climb id="45" number="4142." name="Don't Eat Yellow Snow" fa="Phil Steane, et al, Apr 1983. FFA: M. Jackson, Feb 1995." stars="*" length="15m" grade="25" extra="">Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack L of Adolf Builds A Bonfire and the third line R of Dyazide. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small cams required.</climb>
<climb id="105" number="4243." name="Peaches En Regalia" fa="D. Rollins, A. Shorten, Apr 2013." stars="" length="15m" grade="20" extra="">The first line L of Adolf Builds A Bonfire. Some flared and quirky jamming, with an interesting move near the top.</climb>
<climb id="46" number="4344." name="Adolf Builds A Bonfire" fa="Phil Steane, A. Adams, Jan 1983." stars="" length="15m" grade="18" extra="">A 1930’s style literary purge in the making? The big corner L of Opportunity. Up the small slab then jam the corner.</climb>
<climb id="47" number="4445." name="Opportunity" fa="A. Adams, Phil Steane, Mar 1983." stars="*" length="15m" grade="20" extra="">Much to gain, so little pain. The overhung crack and sentry box 6m L of World Wide Adventure. Climb the crack past the sentry box to the sloping ledge at the top. The move onto the ledge is memorable.</climb>
<climb id="48" number="4546." name="World Wide Adventure" fa="Phil Steane, N. Ward, Mar 1983." stars="" length="22m" grade="18" extra="">The L-facing corner below a scrubby ledge 15m L of Rosy Pink Cadillac. A prominent gum tree is growing out of the top crack. Layback the corner, cross the ledge, jam the crack to the gum tree (crux) and finish up the final groove.</climb>
<climb id="49" number="4647." name="Money In The Bank" fa="(1) N. Ward, Phil Steane. (2) C. Maddock, Phil Steane, Apr 1983. FFA: E. Peacock, 1983." stars="" length="12m" grade="21" extra="">A safe investment. <br/>1. 8m 21. Climb the seam on the wall L of the Rosy Pink Cadillac offwidth. <br/>2. 14m 12. Layback the large loose flake cautiously, finishing easily behind the buttress.</climb>
<climb id="50" number="4748." name="Rosy Pink Cadillac" fa="M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1971. FFA: M. Law, 1978. Direct Start: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1983." stars="***" length="25m" grade="25" extra="↓">An old aid line gone free, following a thin crack up the front of the last major buttress on the R end of the cliff, L of Agent Orange Sunset. These days the route is normally climbed via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 FH, and the Direct Finish (25) past another FH, for a more strenuous and sustained outing. The original free version (23) started up the offwidth on the L before stepping R into the finger crack, and also finished by swinging around to the easy corner on the L at the end of finger crack.</climb>
<climb id="107" stars="" extra="" number="4849." name="Closed Project" length="" grade="" fa="">Line of bolts right of Rosy Pink Cadillac</climb>
<climb id="51" number="4950." name="Agent Orange Sunset" fa="Phil Steane, Nov 1982." stars="**" length="20m" grade="19" extra="">Unique and weird. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal L leaning flake at the R end of the cliff. Struggle up the offwidth chimney 3m L of Paladin until you can traverse out L at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing L around the arête and finish up an easy chimney.</climb>
<climb id="52" number="5051." name="Paladin" fa="P. Morris, P. Cullen, Jan 1977." stars="*" length="16m" grade="17" extra="">The short, steep, and slightly dirty hand crack at the far R of the cliff, just R of Agent Orange Sunset. Jam the crack.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="53">New World</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="54">Rock: Dolerite, up to 15m high, slightly off vertical.</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="55">Access: This little crag (GPS MTW350), visible from the bend below the Chalet, is 15 minutes walk from Lost World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS MTW360). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the R), a large cairn on the LH side (GPS MTW370) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes. Alternatively, bush-bash down from the northern end of Lost World down to the top and rap off to reach the base... easier to describe, harder to do...</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="56">Climbing Info: 13 routes, offering a varied selection of cracks and bolted faces. Routes are described L to R and virtually all have initialed starts. Note that the carrot bolts used here have large heads, and will not take the newer right-angle RP brackets.</text>
<climb id="57" number="5152." name="Cranky Girl" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2002." stars="*" length="10m" grade="24" extra="3Þ ↓">The first climb on the craglet (GPS MTW380) takes the arête of the column L of Dvorak Goes Metal.</climb>
<climb id="58" number="5253." name="Dvorak Goes Metal" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991." stars="**" length="12m" grade="20" extra="Þ">The route follows the superb looking arête, 5m R of Cranky Girl. Scramble to the base of the arête then launch onto the arête proper. Three bolts (carrots) protect the excellent and technical face climbing above, single bolt belay (FH).</climb>
<climb id="59" number="5354." name="Friends With Cameras for Eyes" fa="O. Prall, May 1991." stars="*" length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Start about 12m R of the DGM. A few bouldery moves lead to a twin crack system made of loose blocks and flakes.</climb>
<climb id="60" number="5455." name="Catcher In The Rye" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." stars="" length="16m" grade="15" extra="">About 2m R of FWCFE. Hand jam to two blocks and a bush. Continue up the crack above until a traverse L across the wall to a "horn" can be made, to avoid an offwidth crack. Finish up the hand crack R of the arête.</climb>
<climb id="61" number="5556." name="Quintessence of Clarity" fa="M. Perchard, May 1991." stars="*" length="15m" grade="20" extra="Þ">The face/arête just L of Pinkinsane. Climb the face or arête behind the myrtle to the first of two carrots (run out). Continue past the difficulties until it eases. Ascend easily and then finish with moves of varying degrees of difficulty. Pro can be arranged in Pinkinsane to avoid initial runout.</climb>
<climb id="62" number="5657." name="Pinkinsane" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." stars="" length="16m" grade="16" extra="">Jam the fist crack just R of the above route, terminating in an easy chimney.</climb>
<climb id="63" number="5758." name="Would Jesus Play Guitar in a Thrash Metal Band" fa="O. Prall, Apr 1991." stars="*" length="15m" grade="24" extra="Þ">Rewarding and technical. Start 1m R of Pinkinsane. Climb the face past two bolts (carrots) on thin layaway holds (crux). Continue up the hand crack which begins at 7m.</climb>
<climb id="64" number="5859." name="Procol Harum" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." stars="**" length="16m" grade="15" extra="">A pearler! Hand jam the line 4m R of Pinkinsane finishing up a short slab on the L.</climb>
<climb id="65" number="5960." name="Toxastoma par Excellance" fa="M. Perchard, Apr 1991." stars="**" length="15m" grade="23" extra="Þ">A sustained and technical climb (if you stay on route) which climbs the face between Procol Harum and Tales of Power. Using small holds and both arêtes climb to the base of the layback flake. Up this then move L (crux) to a finger crack. Up this for 3m, then finish back R up the blank wall above. (4 BRs, carrots).</climb>
<climb id="66" number="6061." name="Tales Of Power" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." stars="*" length="16m" grade="17" extra="">The line 2m R of Procol Harum. A thin start, followed by hand jams and some pleasant offwidth moves.</climb>
<climb id="67" number="6162." name="Semi Detached Reality" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." stars="" length="16m" grade="16" extra="">The crack 4m R of Tales of Power that splits into two half way up. Steep hand jams, followed by a traverse into the LH line.</climb>
<climb id="68" number="6263." name="Parkynsane" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991." stars="" length="20m" grade="20" extra="">Starts just R of Semi Detached Reality. A wandering beginning leads to a thin crack near the RH edge of the high orange wall. Climb the crack and arête just to the R. Well protected.</climb>
<climb id="69" number="6364." name="Barbwire Canoe" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." stars="" length="16m" grade="6 " extra="">The easy corner just R of the main cliff, finishing with a desperate move.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="70">Test World</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="71">Rock: Dolerite face, about 15m high. It is not like us to be judgmental or disparaging, but this is shite. It might be worth a visit if you are really, really bored with everything else on the mountain, or with life itself.</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="72">Access: Aaaagh! Located 150m to the south of Lost World, at the same altitude (GPS MTW390). From Good Behaviour scramble and bush-bash south (towards the road) and down around a rock spur or two then back uphill to reach the crag. Alternatively, a direct approach to the top as an offshoot from the usual route into Lost World from is less scrubby but very difficult to find. Take the GPS... and a machete... or flame thrower...</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="73">Climbing Info: The "crag" faces the Organ Pipes and is split by only 4 lines, the RH of which is vegetated with tea tree. Routes are described from L to R.</text>
<climb id="74" number="6465." name="Six Months In A Leaky Test Tube" fa="Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982." stars="" length="15m" grade="17" extra="">The LH line. Start behind the scrub and continue up the L trending crack.</climb>
<climb id="75" number="6566." name="Testing One Two Three" fa="Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982." stars="" length="15m" grade="14" extra="">The chimney, second from the L, with a big chockstone at half height.</climb>
<climb id="76" number="6667." name="My Mother Was A Test Tube" fa="G. Cooper, Phil Steane, 1982." stars="" length="15m" grade="17" extra="">The third crack with the awkward looking start. Up the crack to the ledge and continue easily to top.</climb>
<text class="heading2" id="77">Micro World</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="78">Rock: North facing dolerite buttresses up to 10m</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="79">Access: The crag is due north of the big bend, on the other side of the ridge, and faces north. The easiest way to get there is to walk up the red dot track to the top of the hill. After it goes up past the rock step, turn sharply L and follow the ridge along west about 200m. Angle north and you will pick up some old cairns and an old track, which heads down to the crag on its western end.</text>
<text class="indentedHeader" id="80">Climbing Info: This new little crag makes up for its lack of height by easy access, a sunny aspect, and user friendly climbing. Its probably the sunniest crag on the mountain. There is potential for a couple more lines to be done here. Climbs are described L to R.</text>
<climb id="93" number="6768." name="Smear Like a Madman" fa="Dave Humphries, Tony McKenny, Apr 2010." stars="*" length="8m" grade="20" extra="3Þ ↓ ">Superb climbing in the corner 3m L of Georgie's climb. Stem, bridge and smear to the top. Use the DBB on Dirty Dog.</climb>
<climb id="91" number="6869." name="Georgie's Climb" fa="Jon Nermut, Apr 2010 (with pre-placed gear)." stars="*" length="8m" grade="21" extra="↓">The little roof about 5m L of Little Ripper. Climb up the face to a tricky boulder problem at the roof. Continue up to the DBB on Dirty Dog.</climb>
<climb id="92" number="6970." name="Dirty Dog" fa="Jon Nermut, Apr 2010." length="10m" grade="14" extra="↓">The crack and corner R of Georgie's Climb. DBB.</climb>
<climb id="81" number="7071." name="Little Ripper" fa="Jon Nermut, Mar 2010." stars="*" length="8m" grade="21" extra="3Þ ↓">Around on the LH side of the crag is a face with two lines. Climb the L arête past 3 FH to DBB. You can get a small cam in under the block at the top to protect the exit.</climb>
<climb id="82" number="7172." name="Rough as Guts" fa="Dave Humphries, Mar 2010." stars="" length="8m" grade="20" extra="↓">The burly crack to the R of Little Ripper. One FH protects the start, then there is bomber gear in the crack. Use the DBB on Little Ripper.</climb>
<climb id="94" number="7273." name="Hawk Eye" fa="Will Bartlett, Sam Peyr, Apr 2010." stars="*" length="8m" grade="20" extra="5Þ">The arête and face around the corner R from Rough as Guts. A tricky start gives way to pleasant climbing, head a move or two L at the last bolt. DBB on block.</climb>
<climb id="95" number="7374." name="Dying Breed" fa="Will Bartlett, May 2010." stars="**" length="12m" grade="26" extra="Þ">The steep, thin seam on the pillar right of Hawk Eye is fused to begin with but then opens to accept gear. Start bridging in the corner, then step onto the face at the first bolt. Awesome climbing using both aretes and seam past two more bolts. There is a crucial medium wire/cam placement higher up. Finish up seam to DBB on ledge.</climb>
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<climb id="84" number="7475." name="Flood Control" fa="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010." stars="*" length="10m" grade="17" extra="↓">Climb the seam and crack up the middle of the face to DBB. The gear gets better with height (it's a bit thin down low).</climb>
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<climb id="96" number="7576." name="Lost and Found" fa="Tony McKenny, Alan Beech, 25 April 2010." length="10m" grade="14">The "long" crack a few metres to the R of Flood Control, 2m L of Collar Cool. Short but sweet.</climb>
<climb id="86" number="7677." name="18 Collar Cool" fa="Dave Humphries, Apr 2010." stars="*" length="8m" grade="22" extra="3Þ">Great climbing up the arête. Stick clip the first bolt then head for the layaways and jugs.</climb>
<climb id="90" number="7778." name="I'd Rather Be Eating a Super Schnitzel" fa="Alex Lewis, Will Bartlett, Mar 2010." length="6m" grade="15">The prominent crack in the corner a few metres R of 18 Collar Cool. This steep, dirty, mossy off-hand crack is every bit as good as it sounds! Jam to the top, mantle into the sharp bushes and step L to DBB on 18 Collar Cool.</climb>
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<climb id="88" number="7879." name="Short Climb 2" fa="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010." stars="" length="6m" grade="21" extra="↓">The first bit of rock you come to on the RH end of the crag is a tiny buttress with some bolts in it. Climb the face past a FH and into the thin crack, which takes small cams.</climb>
<climb id="89" number="7980." name="Expectorant" fa="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010." stars="" length="6m" grade="18" extra="2Þ ↓">The detached pillar just to the R has 2 bolts. Climb up and over to the DBB on the previous climb. A bit contrived... but fun all the same.</climb>
</guide>
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