Versions Compared

Key

  • This line was added.
  • This line was removed.
  • Formatting was changed.
Comment: Guide edited
Guide
<guide>
  <header access="From Launceston drive towards George Town along the East Tamar highway for 33km before taking the left hand exit to the Batman Bridge. After 2.5km turn left on to Craigburn Road. Follow the gravel road down the hill for 2.5km until you see some boulders on the left hand side of the road. Park at the gate on the left. Cross the fence at the stile and follow the rough worn track up the hill for 3-4 minutes. This will lead you to the amazing amphitheatre of cliffs that is known as Matto Grosso. This is the main area with around 50 sport routes.  Use the guide to find your way to the other areas, which include Cave Rock, the Rock of Ages, and Falcon Crag. The definitive guide for the cliff is in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz. Climb Tasmania Selected Best has photo topos of the best routes. This guide provides route descriptions only for climbs at the Far Side." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Hillwood is arguably Tasmania&apos;s best, sport crag. There are more than 140 excellent routes, the majority of which are fully equipped with fixed hangers and lower offs. The steep rock is a change from the vertical dolerite found elsewhere around Launceston. With great climbing and easy access this cliff has become very popular. The cliffs face all directions at Hillwood, so if in winter you follow the sun and in summer follow the shade it is climbable most of the year. Do not camp at the cliff - the cliff is on private land and access is delicate. Also do not bring dogs, and leave all gates as you found them." name="Hillwood" new="false" rock="Basalt face climbing between 10-30m. The unimproved rock is extremely chossy and lichenous, but lots of cleaning has been done to produce some quality face climbing on cool jugs, incuts and sidepulls. The majority of the routes are equipped with fixed hangers and chains, but a small minority of routes require various amounts of gear. The angle varies from slightly under vertical to very overhanging." sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="5 minutes" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <gps id="2">
    <point code="HWD000" description="Hillwood main carpark" easting="495728" height="63" northing="5437000" zone="55G" latitude="-41.21837" longitude="146.94904" pid="0"/>
    <point code="HWD010" description="The Matto Grosso - Wailing Wall (Another Lazy Autumn Day)" easting="495898" height="98" northing="5437016" zone="55G" latitude="-41.21823" longitude="146.95106" pid="1"/>
  </gps>
  <text id="45" class="text">The crags and climbs described here are new ones since the guide was published.</text>
  <text class="heading3" new="false" value="Guide: * Climb Northern Tasmania by Bob McMahon and Gerry Narkowicz has the full guide. * Climb Tasmania Selected Best has photo topos of the best routes. At some point we might put some photo topos online here." id="3">The Far Side</text>
  <text id="44" class="text">The crag is situated on the far side of Falcon Crag, hence the name. The Far Side is a 30 metre high slab. There is a ‘big crag’ feel about it. A few of the climbs lead to the ridge top and provide a feeling ‘you have arrived on the top.’ The summit ridge is a great place to end a climb, relax for a while, enjoy the view and then scramble back down for another climb. The names of the climbs come from Gary Larson’s Far Side cartoons. At the base of most climbs is a small name tag. &lt;br/&gt;Caution - this crag leans back, it is a slab. Therefore rocks and blocks, which would normally plummet to the ground as soon as they become detached, remain, leaning back against the main face. The obvious, dangerous ones have been levered off, but some large secure looking ones have been left. Use your own judgement! It is a ‘new’ crag, holds will break off. Dirt and small rocks seem to collect from nowhere on the ledges. Wear a helmet. &lt;br/&gt;These first routes were prepared and bolted by Bill Baxter, with help from Howard Smith, John Gale, Ben Thorp, Fly-fisher Baz and Patrice Baxter. Extra thanks to Baz for making the bolts and Mike Fox for lending his drill. If there are any comments about the grading; SMS Bill 0467 624 874. &lt;br/&gt;Peregrine rules apply. Please stay away between August and December.&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <image id="38" width="1000" height="709" src="Far Side 3.png"/>
  <text id="35" class="heading3">The Dairy</text>
  <text id="36" class="text">Halfway between Silvereye Saddle and Far Side main area.</text>
  <climb id="10" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="" name="Ethel the Cow" length="15m" grade="13" fa="B. Baxter, Jan 2015.">A good introduction to the Far Side’s style of climbing.</climb>
  <text id="32" class="heading3">Crash Test Dummies Wall</text>
  <text id="33" class="text">A short (10m) steep wall at the start of the main Far Side area. At present it sports 3 climbs.</text>
  <climb id="25" stars="**" extra="Þ ↓" number="" name="Crash" length="10m" grade="19" fa="B. Baxter, Feb 2015">The left hand crack line. For the full two star value, don’t be tempted to traverse out left near the top</climb>
  <climb id="26" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="" name="Test" length="10m" grade="18" fa="B. Baxter, Feb 2015">Next crack line up the middle.</climb>
  <climb id="27" stars="" extra="Þ ↓" number="" name="Dummies" length="10m" grade="16" fa="Bill Baxter, Feb 2015">The right-hand edge</climb>
  <text id="34" class="heading3">Far Side main area</text>
  <climb id="11" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="" name="Bluebird of Happiness" length="25m" grade="18" fa="B. Baxter, Jan 2015.">Takes a direct line up to an overlap at 20m (17, DBB). Either lower off or abseil from here. Alternatively, climb on through the overlap above the slab (5m, 18, DBB).&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="12" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="" name="Chicken of Despair" length="22m" grade="17" fa="B. Baxter, Jan 2015."/>
  <climb id="13" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="" name="Centipede Parking" length="30m" grade="14" fa="B. Baxter, Jan 2015.">1. 15m 14 Straight up. DBB.&lt;br/&gt;2a. 15m 14 Up right, then straight up through the overlaps. DBB.&lt;br/&gt;2b. 15m 15 Alternatively, from the 3rd bolt on pitch 2, traverse left to the wide crack. DBB. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="43" stars="" extra="Þ ↓  " number="" name="Parakeet Furniture" length="35" grade="17" fa="B. &amp; P. Baxter, H. Smith, April 2015">Start as for Centipede Parking. Follow the right trending line of bolts.&lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 17 Apart from one crux move at the 4th bolt, it's a grade 10 romp.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 14 Left, then up to join pitch 2 of CP through the overlaps.(Rap: 58m)&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="49" stars="" extra="Þ ↓" number="" name="Wombat Ballet" length="12m" grade="16" fa="B. Baxter, J. Donohoe, Z Jordan, April 2017">&lt;br/&gt;The thin crack 8m right of Centipede Parking. Alternative easier start up corner on the right.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="39" stars="**" extra="Þ ↓  " number="" name="Lemmings on Vacation" length="15m" grade="14" fa="B. Baxter, Mar 2015">10m right of Centipede Parking. A generously bolted crack! &lt;br/&gt;Easy to start, followed by an interesting crack section and ending with a couple of classy face moves.</climb>
  <climb id="48" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓ " number="" name="It’s Life Jim" length="20m" grade="21" fa="J. Donohoe, B. Baxter, Z. Jordan, April 2017">Starts 5m right of Lemmings on Vacation.</climb>
  <image id="41" src="Main Area 04-15.0004.jpg" height="695" width="1000"/>
</guide>

...