- CCT Public Page
- [CCT Members Area]
Page History
...
| Guide |
|---|
<guide guidestars="**">
<header access="Coles Bay (on the Freycinet peninsula) is located midway down Tasmania's east coast. The township of Coles Bay is about 2-3 hours drive from Launceston or Hobart. The fastest way to get there from Hobart is to travel on the Tasman Highway through Sorell, then drive to a clearly marked turn off to Coles Bay about 20 minutes past Swansea. Most of the bouldering has been done in the Whitewater Wall area, which is inside the Coles Bay National Park. You are required to pay park entry fees, if you are planning on staying more than a few days, it is worth getting a year pass to the National Park, worth about $18. " intro="The climbing at Coles Bay offers some of the best in the state, on pure white granite boulders and cliffs. It is the ideal place to head in the winters when the weather is too wet or cold everywhere else. In summer it can get quite greasy but with a little hold preparation this does not inhibit the climbing and there is the added bonus of the crystal clear sea water to swim in. At present there are three better developed bouldering areas, Harlequin Buttress, The Pharos and the Bain Marie. There are, however, numerous other smaller/undeveloped areas. " rock="Granite - Slab to Roof" sun="Mostly morning Sun" walk="5mins to 40mins" name="Coles Bay" id="271" camping="Free camping is available at the Whitewater Wall campsite, managed by Parks and Wildlife. Facilities include a long drop toilet and a patch of dirt, bring your own water (can be filled up in Coles Bay) To get the WWW campesite drive through Coles Bay and take a left turn along the Sleepy Bay road (toward Cape Tourville), follow this until you reach a dirt turn off to Bluestone Bay on the left (just before the Cape Tourville lighthouse comes into sight). This is a 4WD track and following the recently (2016) upgraded roads, 2WD/SUVs vehicles may find it impassable due to the deep drainage channels unless they have really high clearance: there has been more than one car that has had the guts ripped out of it in the past. <br/><br/>Alternatively if you've got cash to spare pay campsites are available closer to town along with numerous holiday homes to rent in Coles Bay. There are a few shops, a bakery, a cafe, and a service station in Coles Bay. " acknowledgement="" history="" autonumber="false"/>
<image id="7" height="648" width="800" src="coles_bay_final1.png"/>
<problem name="Sneak Peak" id="301" stars="" number="1." grade="V0/1" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">This problem is on the first obvious boulder on the left not long after turning off onto the Sleepy Bay road. Goes up the left side of the face. Mantle onto ledge (crux), follow easy rounded arete to top.<br/></problem>
<problem name="Project" id="302" stars="" number="2." grade="V?" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">Thin slabbing up the water streak just right if previous problem.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="8">Sleepy Bay</text>
<text class="text" id="9">There has been some bouldering done on the coast at Sleepy Bay, but the rock is not the best. To get to Sleepy Bay drive into the National Park and take the first left. Drive for a couple of minutes over the hill and park at the car park.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="10">Sleepy Bay Roof</text>
<text class="text" id="11">From the car park follow the walking track for 50m until you get to a hand rail with a gulch down below. Scramble down into the gulch to find this roof just above sea level. There is potential for 4-5 more problems on this roof.</text>
<image id="12" height="375" src="Coles BaySleepBayRoof.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Sleepy Bay Roof">
<legend>
<climb>13</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Hardcore Soft Porn" id="13" stars="*" number="1." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">Sitstart on good holds under roof and climb out</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="14">Underworld Boulders</text>
<text class="text" id="15">Keep going along the track down to the gravely beach. From here follow the coast around southwards for 200m to find some boulders and walls which are about 50m to the north of the Underworld.</text>
<text class="text" id="16">This slab is about 50m before the main walls.</text>
<image id="17" height="327" src="Coles Bayunderworld1.jpg" legend="true" legendx="9" legendy="238">
<legend>
<climb>18</climb>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>20</climb>
<climb>21</climb>
<climb>22</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="18" stars="*" number="1." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Traverse break L-R</problem>
<problem name=" " id="19" stars=" " number="2." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Jump to break and top out</problem>
<problem name=" " id="20" stars=" " number="3." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Flake</problem>
<problem name=" " id="21" stars="*" number="4." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)">Flake</problem>
<problem name=" " id="22" stars="*" number="5." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">From jug above bulge crank up and left</problem>
<text class="text" id="23">These are the shorter walls to the right at the main area.</text>
<image id="24" height="237" src="Coles Bayunderworld2.jpg" legend="true" legendx="331" legendy="9">
<legend>
<climb>25</climb>
<climb>26</climb>
<climb>27</climb>
<climb>28</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="25" stars=" " number="1." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)"/>
<problem name=" " id="26" stars=" " number="2." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)"/>
<problem name=" " id="27" stars=" " number="3." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)"/>
<problem name=" " id="28" stars=" " number="4." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)"/>
<image id="29" height="299" src="Coles Bayunderworld3.jpg" legend="true" legendx="336" legendy="4">
<legend>
<climb>341</climb>
<climb>31</climb>
<climb>342</climb>
<climb>343</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<text class="text" id="30" number="null." new="false">This is the main wall. I don't know if any of these lines have been done - they are very high and hard.</text>
<problem id="341" stars="" extra="" number="1" name="" length="" grade="V?" fa=""/>
<problem name="Ground Control" id="31" stars="" number="2." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" new="false"/>
<problem id="342" stars="" extra="" number="3" name="" length="" grade="V?" fa=""/>
<problem id="343" stars="" extra="" number="4" name="" length="" grade="V?" fa=""/>
<text id="191">This next problem is found in the Underworld proper (i.e. in the large cave where the routes are). Access by walking to the southern end of the small cliff line and then traversing back north at the waters edge.</text>
<problem id="192" stars="**" grade="V4?" extra="(SDS)">The roof crack in the back right of the main cave. Sit start on a finger crack, to hands, to fists and jugs. It has been climbed up to the point where the crack peaters out (V4), but a harder and obvious finish/extension on face holds is still waiting to be climbed.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="32">The Sea Level Traverse</text>
<text class="text" id="33">There are a lot of walls, caves and free standing boulders along the Sea Level Traverse. The Traverse goes for several kilometres south along the coastline from Sleepy Bay. There are parts of the traverse that are quite tricky, especially if there is a swell running. There is a reasonable amount of potential here, but only a small amount of development has been done so far.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="34">Stud City Limits Area</text>
<text class="text" id="35">These square cut walls are found about 50m before the Horizontal Chimney, about 20-30 minutes along the traverse. The problems are good training for Hazards Main Wall, which looms menacingly above.</text>
<image id="36" height="313" src="Coles Bayscl1.jpg" legend="true" legendx="333" legendy="7">
<legend>
<climb>37</climb>
<climb>38</climb>
<climb>39</climb>
<climb>40</climb>
<climb>41</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="37" stars=" " number="1." grade="V?" extra="(Highball, Stand)">Project</problem>
<problem name=" " id="38" stars=" " number="2." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)">Face using pocket</problem>
<problem name="Stud City Limits" id="39" stars="*" number="3." grade="V4/5" extra="(SDS)">Awkward sitstart below bulgey arete</problem>
<problem name=" " id="40" stars="*" number="4." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Leftwards flake</problem>
<problem name=" " id="41" stars=" " number="5." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Black slab</problem>
<image id="42" height="307" src="Coles Bayscl2.jpg" legend="true" width="800" legendx="632" legendy="6">
<legend>
<climb>43</climb>
<climb>44</climb>
<climb>45</climb>
<climb>46</climb>
<climb>47</climb>
<climb>48</climb>
<climb>49</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="43" stars=" " number="1." grade="V0" extra="(Stand)">Slab</problem>
<problem name=" " id="44" stars=" " number="2." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Slab</problem>
<problem name=" " id="45" stars="*" number="3." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Seam to slab</problem>
<problem name=" " id="46" stars="*" number="4." grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)">Jugs to mantle</problem>
<problem name=" " id="47" stars=" " number="5." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">Sitstart on undercling to jugs</problem>
<problem name=" " id="48" stars=" " number="6." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Dyno from break to top</problem>
<problem name=" " id="49" stars=" " number="7." grade="VE" extra="(SDS)">Jugs</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="50">Honeymoon Bay</text>
<text class="text" id="51">There is some bouldering here on the large granite boulders on the beach. Easy problems can be done up the slabby side and a slightly harder problem exists (about V3) which can be done up the slightly overhanging face. Rock quality is what lets the place down, with most of it being quite gravely and crap.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="52">Carp Bay Point</text>
<text class="text" id="53">There are some very nice white boulders at the end of Carp Bay Point. They have seen a minimal amount of development but have numerous quality problems.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="213">Mainland Boulders</text>
<text id="214" class="text">These boulders can be found on the Cape Tourville side of the point. Access by scrambling down the fixed rope (purple) west of the midden. Boulders described from left to right. <br/><br/>NOTE: please do not walk through the midden.</text>
<image id="324" src="Vena 1.jpg" height="467" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Vera Wall" legendx="525" legendy="4">
<drawing>
<path id="52673" points="62,373, 75,286, 81,270, 109,146, 121,84," d="M62,373C67.2,338.2 73.76005704839085,292.72179600082853 75,286C76.23994295160915,279.27820399917147 83.83998827768747,276.21727163493745 81,270C78.16001172231253,263.78272836506255 103.68911047240506,170.69563630331646 109,146C114.31088952759494,121.30436369668354 116.199999999999992,108.8 121,84" linkedTo="323"/>
<path id="79141" points="201,327, 214,257, 221,169, 230,93, 231,70," d="M201,327C206.20000000000002,299 210.42363150570273,285.25331110494835 214,257C217.57636849429727,228.74668889505165 218.0275355208931,199.46776091084556 221,169C223.9724644791069,138.53223908915444 229.074538415967,102.16206968192662 230,93C230.925461584033,83.83793031807338 230.6,79.2 231,70" linkedTo="322"/>
<path id="73555" points="553,227, 557,153, 475,55," d="M553,227C554.6,197.4 569.2427922324237,179.99692646124197 557,153C544.7572077675763,126.00307353875803 507.8,94.2 475,55" linkedTo="321"/>
<path id="39712" points="686,283," linkedTo="320" d="M686,283"/>
<path id="35035" points="168,71, 170,104, 174,165, 162,212, 91,271," d="M168,71C168.8,84.2 169.15761513350472,90.80263709157394 170,104C170.84238486649528,117.19736290842606 175.43333914991894,145.64992147609448 174,165C172.56666085008106,184.35007852390552 173.96217191673475,196.7230093593508 162,212C150.03782808326525,227.2769906406492 93.83998827768747,277.21727163493745 91,271" linkedTo="340"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>323</climb>
<climb>340</climb>
<climb>322</climb>
<climb>321</climb>
<climb>320</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="323" stars="" extra="" number="1" name="Unclimbed" length="" grade="" fa="">High face and corner.</problem>
<problem id="340" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="1A" name="Piminer" length="" grade="VE" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">High corner.</problem>
<problem id="322" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="2" name="Unclimbed" length="" grade="" fa="">Highball hand/finger crack.</problem>
<problem id="321" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="3" name="Vena" length="" grade="V0V1" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Stand start with amazing undercling.</problem>
<image id="327" src="Vena 23.jpg" height="467" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Vera Wall">
<drawing>
<path id="1362" points="168,276, 190,208, 301,107," d="M168,276C176.8,248.8 172.32004285195362,230.4655094587958 190,208C207.67995714804638,185.5344905412042 256.6,147.4 301,107" linkedTo="320"/>
<path id="57859" points="433,315, 377,210, 397,85," d="M433,315C410.6,273 384.36081387677217,257.0274219904889 377,210C369.63918612322783,162.9725780095111 389,135 397,85" linkedTo="325"/>
<path id="51310" points="601,324, 589,219, 550,94, 547,56," d="M601,324C596.2,282 598.151386733021,260.27095977636924 589,219C579.848613266979,177.72904022363076 553.8044844036565,108.76502280466693 550,94C546.1955155963435,79.23497719533307 548.2,71.2 547,56" linkedTo="326"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>320</climb>
<climb>325</climb>
<climb>326</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="320" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="4" name="Parnuen" length="" grade="V0V1" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the front of the arete.</problem>
<problem id="325" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="5" name="UnclimbedTunna Sun" length="" grade="V1" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Quartz dyke.</problem>
<problem id="326" stars="" extra="(Highball, Stand)" number="6" name="Unclimbed" length="" grade="" fa="">High corner.</problem>
<image id="328349" src="BottomTales of walllight.jpg" height="400267" width="600400" legend="true" legendTitle="UnclimbedTales of wallLight"/>
<drawing>
<image<path id="33214521" srcpoints="Hidden wall.jpg" heightd="400" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Nook wall""/>
<path id="33320" points="" d=""/>
<drawing> <path id="13459" points="" d=""/>
<path id="1979141915" points="332370,294168, 335371,294127, 326,161, 345,57350,96," d="M332M370,294C331168C370.972939214090734,292151.80030515802316 335375.027060785909270085867719571,295141.199694841976943091237904557 335371,294C334127C366.972939214090739914132280429,292112.800305158023156908762095443 324358.217259962012634,203108.250938900300874 326,161C327.78274003798737,118.74906109969913 337.4,98.6 345,57" 350,96" linkedTo="329346"/>
<path id="7556429993" points="450190,303157, 434213,197130, 408213,7792," d="M450M190,303C443157C199.62,260146.62 441208.8347597930238626741351455274,239143.1584693624616337470093713358 434213,197C426130C217.1652402069761473258648544726,154116.8415306375383762529906286642 418.4,125 408,77213,107.2 213,92" linkedTo="330345"/>
<path id="300548882" points="54054,309141, 52975,22995, 49593,11674," d="M540,309C535M54,141C62.400000000000006,122.6,277 53669.33461018696244343219598517,260104.45732813519465615494535881 52975,229C52195C80.66538981303765656780401483,19785.542671864805384384505464119 50885.68,16182.24 49593,11674" linkedTo="331344"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>329<<climb>344</climb>
<climb>330<<climb>345</climb>
<climb>331<<climb>346</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="329344" stars="" extra="(StandSDS)" number="1" name="" length="" grade="VEV1" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Crack and broken face.</problem>
<problem id="3302017">Short arete. Starting with LH side pull next to a RH crimp.</problem>
<problem id="345" stars="" extra="(StandSDS)" number="2" name="Unclimbed" length="" grade="VEV?" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Crack<">Hard pull off small holds. Decent feet though!</problem>
<problem id="331346" stars="" extra="(StandSDS)" number="3" name="UnclimbedTales of Light" length="" grade="V2" fa="">Ledge to sparse holdsM Hitchcock 2017">Sit start the blunt arete with LH pinch and RH on thehigh facecrimp.</problem>
<image<problem id="339347" srcstars="Short wall.jpg" extra="(SDS)" heightnumber="400" widthname="600" legendlength="true" legendTitlegrade="ShortV0" stackfa=">
M Hitchcock 2017">There is <drawing>
a hole between #6 on Vera <path id="63834" points="231,234, 240,143, 268,81," d="M231,234C234.6,197.6 233.6037524116938,169.44934813542835 240,143C246.3962475883062,116.55065186457165 256.8,105.8 268,81" linkedTo="336"/Wall and #1 on Tales of light. Crawl in and start on the low horizontal. Pull to the lip and top out.</problem>
<image id="350" src="The gump.jpg" height="333" width="500" legendTitle="The Gump" legend="true">
<drawing>
<path id="4902176276" points="325,269141,221, 144,221, 153,171, 318138,176117, 311148,7065," d="M325M141,269C322221C142.2,231.8221 320143.618017595790671995245702962,213222.2132501115950716686476237663 318144,176C315221C144.381982404209428004754297038,138219.7867498884049383313523762337 313.8,112.4 311,70154.17044322320197,191.28768253550072 153,171C151.82955677679803,150.71231746449928 138.99799995355244,138.1575990153115 138,117C137.00200004644756,95.84240098468851 144,85.8 148,65" linkedTo="337351"/>
<path id="7917332014" points="447251,268204, 434270,180155, 381268,6389," d="M447M251,268C441204C258.86,232184.84 444266.904467331086692582354120526,213175.8699364071629879589957419955 434270,180C423155C273.095532668913407417645879474,146134.1300635928370220410042580045 402268.28,109115.800000000000014 381268,6389" linkedTo="338352"/>
</drawing>
<path <legend>
<climb>336</climb>
<climb>337<id="34937" points="400,199, 399,134, 398,87," d="M400,199C399.6,173 399.33573673977037,152.80125742713952 399,134C398.66426326022963,115.1987425728605 398.4,105.8 398,87" linkedTo="353"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>351</climb>
<climb>352</climb>
<climb>338<<climb>353</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="336351" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="1" name="Kraft" length="" grade="V0V1" fa="M Hitchcock 20162017">Sit start with quartzlowest undercling<horizontal.</problem>
<problem id="337352" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="2" name="Kraft Dyno" length="" grade="VEV3" fa="M Hitchcock 20162017">Sit start with good quartz hold in low horizontal. Dyno up to jugs.</problem>
<problem id="338353" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="3" name="The Gump" length="" grade="VEV1" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Easy slab2017">Start in horizontal. Big static move to top horizontal.</problem>
<image<problem id="334354" srcstars="Mantle .jpg" extra="(SDS)" heightnumber="400" widthname="600Gumpy cave crack" legendlength="true" legendTitlegrade="BackV0" boulderfa=">
M Hitchcock 2017">In the <drawing>
cave next to The Gump <path id="51220" points="157,273, 160,273, 196,186, 216,78," d="M157,273C157.5216988789974,271.9193380363625 159.4783011210026,274.0806619636375 160,273C160.5216988789974,271.9193380363625 185.6045228142388,222.19853662898984 196,186C206.3954771857612,149.80146337101016 208,121.2 216,78" linkedTo="318"/>
<path id="99608" points="365,272, 417,168, 347,34," d="M365,272C385.8,230.4 420.50756199559294,214.37776416395116 417,168C413.49243800440706,121.62223583604884 375,87.6 347,34" linkedTo="333"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>318</climb>
<climb>333</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="318" stars="" extra="(Stand)" number="1" name="" length="" grade="VE" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">On the boulder above and behind 'Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy'. Climb the featured face.</problem>
<problem id="333" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="2" name="Unclimbed" length="" grade="" fa="">Challenging mantle.</problem>
<image id="203" height="414" src="Joy Slab2.jpg" legend="true" legendx="4" legendy="15" legendTitle="Joy Slab">
<drawing/>
<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>215<(climber's right). Sit start with both hands in the horizontal crack. Jam and layback up the vertical crack. topout by following the crack leftwards into The Gump.</problem>
<problem id="355" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="" name="Bizarro" length="" grade="V3" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Sit start hugging the ticktack in the back of the cave.</problem>
<image id="328" src="Bottom wall.jpg" height="400" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Unclimbed wall"/>
<image id="332" src="Hidden wall.jpg" height="400" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Nook wall">
<drawing>
<path id="19791" points="332,294, 335,294, 326,161, 345,57," d="M332,294C331.97293921409073,292.8003051580231 335.02706078590927,295.1996948419769 335,294C334.97293921409073,292.8003051580231 324.21725996201263,203.25093890030087 326,161C327.78274003798737,118.74906109969913 337.4,98.6 345,57" linkedTo="329"/>
<path id="75564" points="450,303, 434,197, 408,77," d="M450,303C443.6,260.6 441.83475979302386,239.15846936246163 434,197C426.16524020697614,154.84153063753837 418.4,125 408,77" linkedTo="330"/>
<path id="30054" points="540,309, 529,229, 495,116," d="M540,309C535.6,277 536.3346101869624,260.4573281351946 529,229C521.6653898130376,197.54267186480538 508.6,161.2 495,116" linkedTo="331"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>329</climb>
<climb>216<<climb>330</climb>
<climb>217<<climb>331</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="329" stars="" extra="(Stand)" number="1" name="Happy Happy, Joy Joy" id="215" stars="*" number="1" grade="V0" extra="(Stand)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Climb the Slab.</problem>
<problem id="216" number="2" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the Slab on the other side of the Last Chance boulder. Slab has been climbed along the full length. All about the same grade.</problem>
<problem id="217" number="3" grade="V?" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="Unclimbed" length="" fa="">Face to Arete.</problem>
<image id="204" height="414" src="Last Chance2.jpg" legend="true" legendx="5" legendy="20" legendTitle="Last Chance">
<legend>217</legend>
<legend>219</legend>
<legend>220</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Last Chance to See" id="219" stars="" number="4" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Up the large holds in the the middle of the boulder</problem>
<problem id="220" number="5" grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" stars="*" name="Leaping lemurs" length="" grade="VE" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Crack and broken face.</problem>
<problem id="330" stars="" extra="(Stand)" number="2" name="" length="" grade="VE" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Crack</problem>
<problem id="331" stars="" extra="(Stand)" number="3" name="Unclimbed" length="" grade="" fa="">Ledge to sparse holds on the face.</problem>
<image id="339" src="Short wall.jpg" height="400" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Short stack">
<drawing>
<path id="63834" points="231,234, 240,143, 268,81," d="M231,234C234.6,197.6 233.6037524116938,169.44934813542835 240,143C246.3962475883062,116.55065186457165 256.8,105.8 268,81" linkedTo="336"/>
<path id="49021" points="325,269, 318,176, 311,70," d="M325,269C322.2,231.8 320.6180175957906,213.21325011159507 318,176C315.3819824042094,138.78674988840493 313.8,112.4 311,70" linkedTo="337"/>
<path id="79173" points="447,268, 434,180, 381,63," d="M447,268C441.8,232.8 444.9044673310866,213.86993640716298 434,180C423.0955326689134,146.13006359283702 402.2,109.80000000000001 381,63" linkedTo="338"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>336</climb>
<climb>337</climb>
<climb>338</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="336" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="1" name="" length="" grade="V0" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Sit start with quartz undercling</problem>
<problem id="337" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="2" name="" length="" grade="VE" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Sit start with good quartz hold.</problem>
<problem id="338" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="3" name="" length="" grade="VE" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Easy slab.</problem>
<image id="334" src="Mantle .jpg" height="400" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Back boulder">
<drawing>
<path id="51220" points="157,273, 160,273, 196,186, 216,78," d="M157,273C157.5216988789974,271.9193380363625 159.4783011210026,274.0806619636375 160,273C160.5216988789974,271.9193380363625 185.6045228142388,222.19853662898984 196,186C206.3954771857612,149.80146337101016 208,121.2 216,78" linkedTo="318"/>
<path id="99608" points="216,308, 278,176, 265,73," d="M216,308C240.8,255.2 269.5235125463674,216.6525418694626 278,176C286.4764874536326,135.3474581305374 270.2,114.2 265,73" linkedTo="333"/>
<path id="28862" points="464,269, 522,204, 511,129, 462,93," d="M464,269C487.2,243 512.3501006446711,232.74438105842643 522,204C531.6498993553289,175.25561894157357 522.5651373743367,150.395504142523 511,129C499.43486262566324,107.60449585747699 481.6,107.4 462,93" linkedTo="348" arrow="false"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>318</climb>
<climb>333</climb>
<climb>348</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="318" stars="" extra="(Stand)" number="1" name="" length="" grade="VE" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">On the boulder above and behind 'Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy'. Climb the featured face.</problem>
<problem id="333" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="2" name="Acquired Fury Project" length="" grade="" fa="">Challenging mantle.</problem>
<problem id="348" stars="*" extra="(SDS)" number="3" name="Lunchbox Legend" length="" grade="V6" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Sit start with LH undercling and RH side pull on the arete.</problem>
<image id="356" src="Joy slab.jpg" height="333" width="500" legend="true" legendTitle="Joy slab">
<drawing>
<path id="92360" points="141,235, 144,184, 134,145," d="M141,235C142.20000000000002,214.6 145.24881291037318,200.05616599051234 144,184C142.75118708962682,167.94383400948766 138,160.6 134,145" linkedTo="215"/>
<path id="91010" points="299,237, 301,190, 360,132," d="M299,237C299.8,218.2 291.5475711178193,206.27057430539304 301,190C310.4524288821807,173.72942569460696 336.4,155.20000000000002 360,132" linkedTo="216"/>
<path id="43054" points="436,250, 426,182, 435,117," d="M436,250C432,222.8 426.19734816275593,208.24730564653555 426,182C425.80265183724407,155.75269435346445 431.4,143 435,117" linkedTo="217"/>
<path id="58139" points="" d=""/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>215</climb>
<climb>216</climb>
<climb>217</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Happy Happy, Joy Joy" id="215" stars="*" number="1" grade="V2" extra="(Stand)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Climb the Slab.</problem>
<problem id="216" number="2" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the Slab on the other side of the Last Chance boulder. Slab has been climbed along the full length. All about the same grade.</problem>
<problem id="217" number="3" grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2017">Face to Arete.</problem>
<image id="204" height="333" src="Last chance.jpg" legend="true" legendx="5" legendy="20" legendTitle="Last Chance" width="500">
<drawing>
<path id="98449" points="173,257, 159,151, 205,73," d="M173,257C167.4,214.6 152.7937586904262,186.68588753004946 159,151C165.2062413095738,115.31411246995054 186.6,104.2 205,73" linkedTo="217"/>
<path id="74221" points="274,276, 284,213, 283,46," d="M274,276C278,250.8 283.00233147725964,238.4959733589195 284,213C284.99766852274036,187.5040266410805 283.40000000000003,112.8 283,46" linkedTo="219"/>
<path id="66261" points="362,288, 389,246, 411,197, 400,145, 373,109," d="M362,288C372.8,271.2 379.53128763973325,263.58475152620963 389,246C398.46871236026675,228.41524847379037 408.69813433375515,218.13531202643014 411,197C413.30186566624485,175.86468797356986 407.13584829339493,161.52512236365143 400,145C392.86415170660507,128.47487763634857 383.8,123.4 373,109" arrow="true" linkedTo="220"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>217</climb>
<climb>219</climb>
<climb>220</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Last Chance to See" id="219" stars="" number="4" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Up the large holds in the the middle of the boulder</problem>
<problem id="220" number="5" grade="V3" extra="(SDS)" stars="*" name="Leaping lemurs" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the right side of the arete.</problem>
<image id="221" height="333" src="Sniff my fingers.jpg" legend="true" legendx="319" legendy="5" legendTitle="Dad's block" width="500">
<drawing>
<path id="42789" points="508,240," linkedTo="319" d="M508,240"/>
<path id="29522" points="27,190, 30,190, 53,139, 114,79," d="M27,190C28.2,190 29.45497506307173,191.06908737628237 30,190C30.54502493692827,188.93091262371763 39.49582129319647,156.8448075768475 53,139C66.50417870680353,121.15519242315249 89.6,103 114,79" linkedTo="223"/>
<path id="54657" points="118,183, 175,184, 239,184, 257,157," d="M118,183C130.76149869947116,175.9102785002938 152.19727021328382,183.8115476877131 175,184C197.80272978671618,184.1884523122869 226.67115284006505,188.05949845510054 239,184C251.32884715993495,179.94050154489946 249.8,167.8 257,157" arrow="true" linkedTo="224"/>
<path id="88042" points="118,194, 124,158," d="M118,194C130.76149869947116,186.9102785002938 121.6,172.4 124,158" linkedTo="315"/>
<path id="73874" points="266,228, 278,192, 277,167," d="M266,228C270.8,213.6 276.22392556585396,201.84914004390092 278,192C279.77607443414604,182.15085995609908 277.4,177 277,167" arrow="true" linkedTo="225"/>
<path id="3412" points="411,202, 401,170," d="M411,202C407,189.2 405,182.8 401,170" arrow="true" linkedTo="319"/>
<path id="35078" points="469,229, 465,183, 462,148," d="M469,229C467.4,210.6 466.2098036249295,196.99915623132722 465,183C463.7901963750705,169.00084376867278 463.2,162 462,148" linkedTo="228"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>223</climb>
<climb>315</climb>
<climb>224</climb>
<climb>225</climb>
<climb>319</climb>
<climb>228</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="223" number="1" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the right side of the arete easy slab. Sit start has been done, but only for comic value. Sit start with LH pinch and RH in dish (goes around V1).</problem>
<image<problem id="221315" heightstars="414*" srcextra="fingers left2.jpg(SDS)" legendnumber="true2A" legendxname="450Mantle Asylum" legendylength="30" legendTitlegrade="Dad's block">
<drawing>
<path id="28070" points="138,231," d="M138,231" linkedTo="315"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>223</climb>
<climb>315</climb>
<climb>224</climb>
<climb>225</climb>
<climb>228</climb>
</legend>
</image>V5" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Mantle the jug into the slab.</problem>
<problem id="224" number="2" grade="V5" extra="(Hang)" stars="*" name="Back from whence you came." length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Start of the jug and traverse right on slopes, finish on Chip off the old block</problem>
<problem id="223225" number="13" grade="VEV4" extra="(StandSDS)" stars="**" name="The whoop whoop" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the easy slab<>Creative thinking will help your sequence up this problem.</problem>
<problem id="315319" stars="**" extra="(SDSHang)" number="2A4a" name="MantleAs AsylumAnything" length="" grade="V4V3" fa="M Hitchcock 20162017">Mantle the jug intoblankness. Start with hands on the slabblank arete and feet underneath.</problem>
<problem<image id="222" height="224267" numbersrc="Sniff my fingers 2.jpg" gradelegend="Ungradedtrue" extralegendx="(Hang)2" starslegendy="*2" namelegendTitle="UnnamedDad's block" lengthwidth="400" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Start of the jug and traverse right on slopes, finish on Chip off the old block</problem>
<problem id="225" number="3" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" stars="***" name="Chip off the old block" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Creative thinking will help your sequence up this problem.</problem>
<problem id="319" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="" name="As Anything project" length="" grade="V?" fa="">Mantle the blankness.</problem>
<image id="222" height="414" src="fingers right2.jpg" legend="true" legendx="5" legendy="330" legendTitle="Dad's block">
<legend>226</legend>
<legend>227</legend>
<legend>228<>
<drawing>
<path id="20759" points="119,191, 122,191, 81,142, 107,86," d="M119,191C120.2,191 122.73538822315265,191.94826376143368 122,191C121.26461177684735,190.05173623856632 84.4926207924709,166.44834554729624 81,142C77.5073792075291,117.55165445270376 96.6,108.4 107,86" arrow="true" linkedTo="226"/>
<path id="16126" points="192,182, 194,130, 187,55," d="M192,182C192.8,161.2 194.81886872867392,150.79926570831768 194,130C193.18113127132608,109.20073429168232 189.8,85 187,55" arrow="true" linkedTo="227"/>
<path id="76819" points="306,226, 323,170, 327,80," d="M306,226C312.8,203.6 319.6671937417831,193.17093874760343 323,170C326.3328062582169,146.82906125239657 325.4,116 327,80" linkedTo="313" arrow="true"/>
<path id="65096" points="259,214, 264,126, 271,70," d="M259,214C261,178.8 262.12530462244644,148.49634453064274 264,126C265.87469537755356,103.50365546935726 268.2,92.4 271,70" linkedTo="228" arrow="true"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>226</climb>
<climb>227</climb>
<climb>228</climb>
<climb>313</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Beetroot Strains" id="226" stars="" number="4" grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Starting on the low jug, head up and traverse the arete.</problem>
<problem name="L'Flake No More" id="227" stars="" number="5" grade="VE" extra="(Hang)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Starting on flake head upwards.</problem>
<problem name="Foot Movements In The Ukraine" id="228" stars="" number="6" grade="VE" extra="(SDS)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Climb the cracks.</problem>
<problem id="313" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="7" name="The World Seams Difficult" length="" grade="VEV0" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the arete using opposing seams</problem>
<problem id="314" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="8" name="Let's not get sentimantle" length="" grade="V1" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Mantle on the low boulder just behind the arete of #7< The World Seams Difficult</problem>
<image id="335" src="Far right wall.jpg" height="400" width="600" legendTitle="Unclimbed wall and cave" legend="true"/>
<text class="heading3" id="229">The Point Boulders</text>
<text id="230" class="text">The next boulders are on the point that juts out to sea. The outmost area, which is actualy an island, has yet to see any development. <br/><br/>Access by scrambling down the Wine Glass Bay side of the point and traversing out at sea level. Purple fixed line to start with, but then you'll have to time the waves and run. There are also some more problems to develop on the small walls between the island and point.<br/><br/>Best not to access this area when the swell is up.</text>
<problem name="The Decent of the Dinosaurs" id="231" stars="" number="1" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" fa="M Hitchcock 2010" length="">On the inland side of the boulder is an easy ramp, this is the decent route.</problem>
<problem id="232" number="2" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="Dinosaur Rider" length="" fa="X Zheng 2016">Just right of 'The Decent of the Dinsosaurs', climb the slab.</problem>
<image id="303" src="dino 1.png" height="399" width="600" legendTitle="Dinosaur east-south side" legend="true">
<legend>
<climb>233</climb>
<climb>234</climb>
<climb>235</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="233" number="3" grade="V0" extra="(Stand)" stars="*" name="Underdactyl" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Sit start with jugs, heading up through the double undercling and a reach finish.</problem>
<problem id="234" number="4" grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="Triceratops" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the arete with some wide pinches.</problem>
<image id="304" src="dino 2.png" height="400" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Dinosaur north side">
<legend>
<climb>235</climb>
<climb>236</climb>
<climb>306</climb>
<climb>307</climb>
<climb>308</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="235" number="5" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="*" name="All aboard for oblivion!" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the face just right of the arete on good holds.</problem>
<problem id="236" number="6" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="*" name="Stegosaurus " length="" fa="L Bussolini 2016">Rightside of face on large moves between great holds.</problem>
<problem id="306" stars="" extra="(Stand)" number="7" name="Oogenera" length="" grade="V1" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the arete starting with RH slope and LH crimp.</problem>
<problem id="307" stars="*" extra="(Stand)" number="8" name="Lineartuberculate" length="" grade="V1" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb slightly right of the middle on small slopes.</problem>
<problem id="308" stars="" extra="(Stand)" number="9" name="Oviraptor" length="" grade="VE" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the right side of the face on great holds.</problem>
<text id="238">The following problems are on the next boulder out.</text>
<image id="309" src="Oyster 3.png" height="399" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Oystercatcher east side">
<legend>
<climb>239</climb>
<climb>240</climb>
<climb>241</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="239" number="1" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="I'm a vegetarian" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Crack</problem>
<problem id="240" number="2" grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="Variable" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Climb the face. The shorter you are, the harder it is.</problem>
<problem id="241" number="3" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="" name="Sooty" length="" fa="L Bussolini 2016">Climb the face with the diagonal crack. Pretty good!</problem>
<image id="310" src="Oyster 2.png" height="399" width="600" legendTitle="Oystercatcher north-east side" legend="true">
<legend>
<climb>240</climb>
<climb>242</climb>
<climb>243</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="242" number="4" grade="VE" extra="(SDS)" stars="" name="Pied" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Corner crack</problem>
<problem id="243" number="5" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" stars="*" name="Lissomeness" length="" fa="M Hitchcock (using both cracks) and X Zheng (using only right crack) 2016">Climb the crack using either both or the right crack. Either way is about the same difficulty.</problem>
<image id="311" src="Oyster 1.png" height="400" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Oystercatcher north-west side">
<legend>
<climb>243</climb>
<climb>244</climb>
<climb>245</climb>
<climb>312</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="244" number="6" grade="V?" extra="(SDS)" stars="" name="Open Projec" length="" fa="">Slab.</problem>
<problem id="245" number="7" grade="V0" extra="(Stand)" stars="**" name="Oyster Pie-eater" length="" fa="M Hitchcock 2016">Dogleg crack.</problem>
<problem id="312" stars="" extra="(Stand)" number="8" name="Open project" length="" grade="V?" fa="">Climb the easy corner above a poor landing.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="54">Mt Amos</text>
<text class="text" id="55">There are hundreds of boulders scattered around the flanks of Mt Amos. Unfortunately there are very few decent problems on them. There are some nice ones on the very summit that have good problems.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="56">Little Bluestone Bay</text>
<text class="text" id="57">Little Bluestone Bay has some good bouldering on nice white granite. To get there take a right hand turn down the 4WD track just before Whitewater Wall and follow the track south to the coast.</text>
<text class="text" id="58">The following blocks are immediately to the left from where the track meets the coast.</text>
<image id="59" height="375" src="Coles Baylbb1.jpg" legend="true">
<legend>
<climb>60</climb>
<climb>61</climb>
<climb>62</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Überclinger " id="60" stars="" number="1." grade="V8" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length=""/>
<problem name="Commander Pugwash " id="61" stars="" number="2." grade="V3/4" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length=""/>
<problem name="Captain Pugwash" id="62" stars="*" number="3." grade="V4/5" extra="(SDS)"/>
<text id="274">These lines are on the backside of the block with the V8</text>
<image id="275" height="334" width="500" src="Little Bluestone new.jpg" legend="true" legendx="332" legendy="8">
<legend>
<climb>276</climb>
<climb>277</climb>
<climb>278</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="276" stars="" number="1" grade="V3/4" extra="(SDS)" fa="T. Krauss, 2012" length="">Start in the ditch with opposing slopers. Up via pinch and slopes to mantle. Quite shouldery.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="277" stars="*" number="2" grade="V4/5" extra="(SDS)" fa="C. Johns, 2012" length="">Start on the good hold and move up through slopes and the good nose to tricky mantle.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="278" stars="" number="3" grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start on the good flake and mantle. Don't use the crack on the left.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="63">The Pharos</text>
<text class="text" id="64">From Little Bluestone Bay follow the coast leftwards (east/north) for 200m until you see the prominent pinnacle of the Sentinel. The Pharos is a group of edges just to the south of the Sentinel.</text>
<text class="text" id="65">The following block is 40m to the left of the Pharos proper.</text>
<image id="66" height="375" src="Coles Baypharos1.jpg" legend="true">
<legend>
<climb>67</climb>
<climb>68</climb>
<climb>69</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="67" stars="***" number="1." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Starting in the crack, move to the undercling and leap to the finishing jug.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="68" stars="" number="2." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Climb the arete from a sit start. Despite the two other problems on the boulder having good rock, this one seems to be a bit gravelly.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="69" stars="**" number="3." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Large moves between very good holds leads you into some slabby moves near the top.</problem>
<text id="189">This next problem is above the far left Pharos. Clearly identifiable with the triangular top of the boulder.</text>
<image id="255" height="622" src="Pharo's headstone2.jpg" legend="true" legendx="250" legendy="90" legendTitle="Pharo's Headstone">
<legend>190</legend>
</image>
<problem name="The Pharo's Headstone" id="190" stars="**" number="" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Start on the jug in the middle of the face, go right following the seam and then left up the arete to topout on top of the triangle.</problem>
<problem name="Barefoot" id="256" stars="" number="" grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">The short arete to the right of Pharo's Headstone.</problem>
<text class="text" id="70">This is the far left of the Pharos.</text>
<image id="71" height="375" src="Coles Baypharos2.jpg" legend="true">
<legend>
<climb>72</climb>
<climb>73</climb>
<climb>74</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="72" stars=" " number="1." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Steepish face from jug</problem>
<problem name=" " id="73" stars=" " number="2." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">Face L of arete</problem>
<problem name=" " id="74" stars=" " number="3." grade="VE" extra="(Stand)">Easy corner</problem>
<text class="text" id="75">This is the left hand side of the Pharos.</text>
<image id="76" height="518" src="Coles Baypharos3.jpg" legend="true" width="900" legendx="9" legendy="404">
<legend>
<climb>77</climb>
<climb>78</climb>
<climb>79</climb>
<climb>80</climb>
<climb>81</climb>
<climb>82</climb>
<climb>83</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="77" stars=" " number="1." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)"/>
<problem name=" " id="78" stars=" " number="2." grade="V?" extra="(SDS)">Hard and thin start climbing up the corner and around the roof. The stand start goes around V4.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="79" stars="*" number="3." grade="V10?" extra="(SDS)">Steep thin crack and roof</problem>
<problem name=" " id="80" stars=" " number="4." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Up on jugs</problem>
<problem name=" " id="81" stars=" " number="5." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)">Cracks L of corner</problem>
<problem name=" " id="82" stars=" " number="6." grade="V?" extra="(SDS)">Face L of arete</problem>
<problem name=" " id="83" stars="*" number="7." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Jugs up arete</problem>
<problem name="Illegal Fishing" id="252" stars="*" number="7a" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="Y. Hattori 2010" length="">Start as for #7 (V2) but traverse right, keeping low. After three distinct cruxs finish up the corner (past #2 V6?)</problem>
<problem name=" " id="84" stars=" " number="8." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)">Flake in corner to R</problem>
<problem name=" " id="85" stars=" " number="9." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)">2m right of corner</problem>
<problem name=" " id="86" stars=" " number="10." grade="VE" extra="(Stand)">There are 3 different cracks up the slab to the right</problem>
<image id="87" height="304" src="Coles Baypharos4.jpg" legend="true" legendx="334" legendy="7">
<legend>
<climb>88</climb>
<climb>89</climb>
<climb>90</climb>
<climb>91</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="88" stars=" " number="1." grade="V0" extra="(Stand)">Crack and bulge</problem>
<problem name=" " id="89" stars=" " number="2." grade="V6?" extra="(SDS)">Awkward sitstart in steep corner to flake system. Stand start is V2/3</problem>
<problem name=" " id="90" stars=" " number="3." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)">Thin crack</problem>
<problem name=" " id="91" stars="**" number="4." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)">Face using right arete</problem>
<text class="text" id="92">Directly above the right hand end of the Pharos is a slabby block.</text>
<image id="93" height="297" src="Coles Baypharos5.jpg" legend="true" legendx="1" legendy="5" width="700">
<legend>
<climb>94</climb>
<climb>95</climb>
<climb>96</climb>
<climb>97</climb>
<climb>98</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="201" grade="V?">The crack just to the left of Rosetta traverse. Not the best landing.</problem>
<problem name="The Rosetta Stone Traverse" id="94" stars="" number="1." grade="V4/5" extra="(Stand)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010" length="">Thin L-R traverse</problem>
<problem name=" " id="95" stars=" " number="2." grade="V?" extra="(Stand)"/>
<problem name=" " id="96" stars=" " number="3." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Arete</problem>
<problem name=" " id="272" stars="*" number="3a" grade="V6" extra="(Stand)">Face just right of arete without using holds from the V2's on either side. Start with lay away and tiny crimp, high step to gain slightly larger crimp then big moves through decent holds to top out jug. Avoid the small footer out to your right.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="97" stars=" " number="4." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Crack without using holds over right</problem>
<problem name=" " id="98" stars=" " number="5." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Slab</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="198">Areas South of Little Bluestone Bay</text>
<text class="heading3" id="194">Second Ramp</text>
<text id="195">There is potential for a half dozen or so moderate problems at the southern end of the Second ramp. Landings are good but don't roll too far or you'll end up in the drink.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="199">Rubix Cube Buttress</text>
<image id="287" height="750" width="1000" src="RubixCubeTopLeft.jpg" legend="true">
<drawing>
<path id="84252" d="M351,427C339.4,354.59999999999997 328.042769745814,296.138657080132 322,246C315.957230254186,195.86134291986795 317.2,170.4 314,120" linkedTo="288" points="351,427, 322,246, 314,120," arrow="true"/>
<path id="24650" d="M387,445C400.6,406.6 410.1942791255567,388.27793778170667 421,349C431.8057208744433,309.72206221829333 441.5802795579701,243.92540613273266 450,216C458.4197204420299,188.07459386726734 468.6,176.4 481,150" linkedTo="289" points="387,445, 421,349, 450,216, 481,150," arrow="true"/>
<path id="4567" d="M601,480C611.8,421.2 617.8179972301366,391.91015888278093 628,333C638.1820027698634,274.08984111721907 645.4,226.8 657,156" linkedTo="290" points="601,480, 628,333, 657,156," arrow="true"/>
<path id="46710" d="M775,461C776.6,367 778.0405318391561,239.38205592755938 779,226C779.9594681608439,212.61794407244062 788,208 794,196" linkedTo="291" points="775,461, 779,226, 794,196," arrow="true"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>288</climb>
<climb>289</climb>
<climb>290</climb>
<climb>291</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="VE" id="288" stars="" number="1" grade="VE" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit Start just left of corner, pull up and top out straight via mantle</problem>
<problem name="VE " id="289" stars="" number="2" grade="VE" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit Start in corner and climb up using corner and slopers on right</problem>
<problem name="V1" id="290" stars="*" number="3" grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit start using sidepull on the left and shallow crack on the right, do a move or two gaining a higher hold on the left and top out via slopey mantle. Try to stay on the right as much as possible.</problem>
<problem name="V0" id="291" stars="*" number="4" grade="V0" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit start on juggy shelf, mantle and mantle to top</problem>
<image id="292" height="499" src="RubixCubeTopCorner.jpg" legend="true">
<drawing>
<path id="8095" d="M214,318C201.6,270.8 186.37050743331733,248.6851073701389 183,200C179.62949256668267,151.3148926298611 190.8,114.8 196,58" linkedTo="293" points="214,318, 183,200, 196,58,"/>
<path id="7761" d="M359,324C354.2,281.6 351.16947491054697,250.48715867801184 347,218C342.83052508945303,185.51284132198816 337.5859949065905,164.89180220679705 335,137C332.4140050934095,109.10819779320295 334.34455845747715,83.58288764221801 333,67C331.65544154252285,50.41711235778199 326.72392015113275,30.014466292645135 326,26C325.27607984886725,21.985533707354865 324.72392015113275,20.014466292645135 324,16" linkedTo="294" points="359,324, 347,218, 335,137, 333,67, 326,26, 324,16,"/>
<path id="17905" d="M384,331C393.2,301 394.98680284028393,282.3515292535707 407,256C419.01319715971607,229.64847074642933 429.58251252502544,212.15535208059143 446,195C462.41748747497456,177.84464791940857 482.61996964416505,176.9375316206614 496,163C509.38003035583495,149.0624683793386 515.2913775271227,139.12964621469578 518,120C520.7086224728773,100.87035378530423 514.4,78 512,50" linkedTo="295" points="384,331, 407,256, 446,195, 496,163, 518,120, 512,50,"/>
<path id="78860" d="M585,310C578.2,272 575.2341440467981,249.26699811641188 568,215C560.7658559532019,180.73300188358812 554.6532469766821,161.1869814299798 547,130C539.3467530233179,98.81301857002019 535.6,83.19999999999999 528,52" linkedTo="296" points="585,310, 568,215, 547,130, 528,52,"/>
<path id="54295" d="M877,396C870.2,331.6 863.239629476361,278.8969794046913 860,235C856.760370523639,191.1030205953087 857.4471915538727,135.0618099621363 857,125C856.5528084461273,114.93819003786372 855.2,110 854,100" linkedTo="297" points="877,396, 860,235, 857,125, 854,100,"/>
<path id="52550" d="M977,402C978.6,364.4 982.5511695707817,343.0952115389362 981,308C979.4488304292183,272.9047884610638 971.5668610607439,242.13885579436212 969,221C966.4331389392561,199.86114420563788 964.8339070181988,183.17710773121806 964,168C963.1660929818012,152.82289226878194 964,145.2 964,130" linkedTo="298" points="977,402, 981,308, 969,221, 964,168, 964,130,"/>
<path id="7500" d="M1085,403C1082.2,375 1079.8946854346343,361.0757932586736 1078,333C1076.1053145653657,304.9242067413264 1077.0487002133968,264.5500596131422 1074,240C1070.9512997866032,215.44994038685783 1061.6390729209995,191.87582814449783 1059,180C1056.3609270790005,168.12417185550217 1056,162 1054,150" linkedTo="299" points="1085,403, 1078,333, 1074,240, 1059,180, 1054,150,"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>293</climb>
<climb>294</climb>
<climb>295</climb>
<climb>296</climb>
<climb>297</climb>
<climb>298</climb>
<climb>299</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="VE " id="293" stars="" number="5" grade="VE" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit start at the side pull/crack, mantle onto ledge on the left and top out as for #4</problem>
<problem name="Goodbye fingerprint" id="294" stars="**" number="6" grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit start and climb the slightly left trending diagonal cracks with slightly dicey top mantle</problem>
<problem name="Vein Fracture" id="295" stars="**" number="7" grade="V3?" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit start as for Goodbye Fingerprint, climb the right trending diagonal cracks with underclings, crimps and pockets to topout over highest point above crack on the right.</problem>
<problem name="Blade" id="296" stars="**" number="8" grade="V3?" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">Stand start with blade-like feature and crack, move up the crack to same topout as Vein Fracture. Don't use feet on the right.</problem>
<problem name="V1" id="297" stars="" number="9" grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit start on flakey feature and move up to top-out straight above</problem>
<problem name="Spotter for Sale" id="298" stars="*" number="10" grade="V2?" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Sit start in the crack and move up to dicey mantle, better bring a spotter.</problem>
<problem name="1-800-Rent-A-Spotter" id="299" stars="*" number="11" grade="V1?" extra="" fa="" length="">Sit start in the crack and climb straight up to top either via stepping onto the right or staying on the left.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="196">Lego Buttress</text>
<text id="197">There is potential for about two dozen problems, most less than vertical, between Lego and Hammer Buttresses.</text>
<text class="heading2" id="99">Bluestone Bay</text>
<text class="heading3" id="100">The Bain Marie</text>
<text class="access" id="101">From Bluestone Bay walk northwards along the shoreline for about 200m and you will come to a rocky platform with several boulders and small cliffs on it. This is the Bain Marie.</text>
<image id="102" height="440" src="Coles Baybone.JPG"/>
<problem name="Left hand Slab" id="103" stars=" " number="1." grade="V0" extra=" ">Up slab.</problem>
<problem name="Right hand Slab" id="104" stars=" " number="2." grade="V0" extra=" ">Up slab.</problem>
<image id="105" height="169" src="Coles Baybtwo.JPG"/>
<problem name="Mykonos" id="106" stars=" " number="3." grade="V8" extra=" ">Start on crimp and undercling, pull on and bump up to top of boulder.</problem>
<image id="107" height="202" src="Coles Baybthree.JPG"/>
<problem name="Roof Problem" id="108" stars=" " number="4." grade="V3" extra=" ">Start at back of roof on jugs, pull out through roof on jugs and around lip to top out.</problem>
<problem name="" id="109" stars=" " number="5." grade="V4" extra=" ">Sit start up into undercling and top out.</problem>
<image id="110" height="198" src="Coles Baybfour.JPG"/>
<problem name="Slab" id="111" stars=" " number="6." grade="V0" extra=" ">Up easy angled slab on side of boulder.</problem>
<problem name="Traverse" id="112" stars="*" number="7." grade="V4" extra=" ">Start on left and traverse across on edges and then up.</problem>
<image id="113" height="244" src="Coles Baybfive.JPG"/>
<problem name="Undercut" id="114" stars=" " number="8." grade="V4" extra=" ">Start on underclings then into side pull and up over top.</problem>
<problem name="White men can" id="115" stars="*" number="9." grade="V8" extra="(Stand)">Start on undercling sidepull jump to high sidepull up flake. (interesting foot stab helps) Sit start will go much harder V11?</problem>
<problem name="Akasha" id="116" stars="**" number="10." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">Start under roof, up to thin seam, big moves to top. Mantle or traverse. V5 start by not using the bad rock for feet. Both ways are fun.</problem>
<image id="117" height="285" src="Coles Baybsix.JPG"/>
<problem name="Seven Nation Army" id="118" stars="**" number="11." grade="V4" extra=" ">Sit start on crimps and up.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="119" stars=" " number="11a." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Start on flake right of 11. Be careful on the mantle not to fall into the ocean.</problem>
<image id="120" height="255" src="Coles Baybseven.JPG"/>
<problem name="Clockwork Orange" id="121" stars=" " number="12." grade="V5" extra=" ">Very easy if your very tall, very hard if your very short. Start on break, up into undercling then up to top.</problem>
<image id="122" height="502" src="Coles Baycolesbay.jpg"/>
<text class="text" id="123">Jon Nermut on a V5/6 at an area 60 meters further around the coast from the Bain Marie.</text>
<text class="pagebreak" id="124"/>
<text class="heading2" id="125">Whitewater Wall Area</text>
<text class="heading3" id="126">Harlequin Buttress</text>
<text class="text" id="127">At Harlequin Buttress there are a number of boulders with quite a few good problems ranging from easy to very hard. From the turning circle at the end of the road walk straight ahead to the cliff top, follow it rightwards for about 50m until you reach the top of some steps. Follow them down on to a ramp and to the boulders.</text>
<image id="128" height="167" src="Coles Bayone.JPG"/>
<problem name="Traverse" id="129" stars=" " number="1." grade="V3" extra=" ">Start in corner and traverse left to jugs, can be done the opposite way at a similar grade.</problem>
<text class="text" id="130">There are various sit start problems which can be done along the traverse that have not been recorded.</text>
<image id="131" height="221" src="Coles Baytwo.JPG"/>
<problem name="Orange" id="132" stars=" " number="1." grade="V5" extra=" ">Hang start on lip with feet on block, pull up to ledge and top out.</problem>
<problem name="Traverse" id="133" stars=" " number="2." grade="V0" extra=" ">Traverse wall.</problem>
<problem name="Slab" id="134" stars=" " number="3." grade="V4" extra=" ">Up Slab</problem>
<problem name="Mantel" id="135" stars=" " number="4." grade="V5" extra=" ">Hang start on lip and mantel over, desperate for some easy for others.</problem>
<problem name="Arete" id="136" stars=" " number="5." grade="V1" extra=" ">Hang start on arete, up right trending to top out.</problem>
<problem name="Project" id="137" stars=" " number="6." grade="V8" extra=" ">Start on crimps, hard pull to top.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="282">Bolted Boulder</text>
<image id="283" height="667" width="500" src="Bolted Boulder.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Bolted Boulder">
<drawing>
<path id="50281" d="M228,446C210.79999999999998,376.4 191.94479196340734,299.6653188050489 185,272C178.05520803659266,244.3346811949511 164.07917444664733,231.3737339468545 167,203C169.92082555335267,174.6262660531455 196.02781522227482,142.57009266655035 199,136C201.97218477772518,129.42990733344965 202.6,125.8 205,119" linkedTo="284" points="228,446, 185,272, 167,203, 199,136, 205,119," arrow="true"/>
<path id="89436" d="M2,463C2.0000000000000133,355.8 1.999999999999987,302.2 2,195" linkedTo="286" points="2,463, 2,195," arrow="true"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>284</climb>
<climb>286</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Better Be Safe" id="284" stars="***" number="1" grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="E. Robson, 2012" length="">Sit start with left hand on sidepull/jug and right hand on sidepull or jug. Move up via left hand sidepull crimp and move straight up to top out over the middle of the face.</problem>
<problem name="Triple Circumcision" id="286" stars="" number="2" grade="V0" extra="(Stand)" fa="T. Krauss, 2013" length="">This problem is located on the face to the left of "Better Be Safe"<br/><br/>Stand start via balancing on the sharp blade-like feature, be careful to, when falling, not impale yourself on said feature!<br/><br/>Step onto the wall and make some delicate moves to top out via the highest point of the face.</problem>
<image id="138" height="153" src="Coles Baythree.JPG"/>
<problem name="Traverse" id="139" stars="" number="1." grade="V5" extra="" fa="" length="">*Only here for historic reference, unclimbable since rockfall in 2012*<br/><br/>Start on jug traverse left for 5m to top out.</problem>
<problem name="Finger Power" id="140" stars="**" number="2." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">Up Slab.</problem>
<problem name="Balance" id="141" stars="" number="3." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">Up slab near arete without using arete.</problem>
<problem name="Harelquin Arete" id="142" stars="" number="4." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">Sit start, up arete.</problem>
<problem name="Bowling Alone" id="143" stars="**" number="5." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">Step up onto the left side of the slab and then carefully move diagonally across. Landing not so good.</problem>
<image id="144" height="215" src="Coles Bayfour.JPG"/>
<problem name="Roof Project" id="145" stars="" number="1." grade="V12?" extra="" fa="" length="">*Only here for historic reference, unclimbable since rockfall in 2012*<br/>*Maybe still possible with use of chockstone?*<br/><br/>Start on break, into undercling, out to crimps to top.</problem>
<problem name="Campus" id="146" stars="" number="2." grade="V7" extra="" fa="" length="">*Only here for historic reference, unclimbable since rockfall in 2012*<br/>Hang start on crimps, campus to edge and top out.</problem>
<problem name="Campuseis" id="147" stars="" number="3." grade="V5" extra="" fa="" length="">*Only here for historic reference, unclimbable since rockfall in 2012*<br/>Hang of opposing side pulls, pop to jug and top out.</problem>
<problem name="Top Out" id="148" stars="" number="4." grade="V0" extra="" fa="" length="">*Only here for historic reference, unclimbable since rockfall in 2012*<br/><br/>Start on jug and top out.</problem>
<problem name="Topped Out" id="149" stars=" " number="5." grade="V0" extra=" ">Step onto lip and top out.</problem>
<image id="150" height="146" src="Coles Bayfive.JPG"/>
<problem name="Traverse" id="151" stars=" " number="1." grade="V1" extra=" ">Start on jugs and traverse leftwards.</problem>
<problem name="Slopeout" id="152" stars=" " number="2." grade="V4" extra=" ">Stand Start to top out.</problem>
<problem name="Groovy" id="153" stars=" " number="3." grade="V1" extra=" ">Up groove, harder if your short.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="279">Jumping Block</text>
<text class="access" id="154">These problems are under the large "Jumping Block"</text>
<image id="155" height="182" src="Coles Baysix.JPG"/>
<problem name="Traverty" id="156" stars=" " number="1." grade="V3" extra=" ">Traverse whole break to end and top out.</problem>
<problem name="Flaked" id="157" stars=" " number="2." grade="V5" extra=" ">Start near end of flake, traverse out then long throw to slope, finish in break.</problem>
<problem name="Campuseis" id="158" stars="**" number="3." grade="V6" extra="(Hang)" fa="" length="">Hang start on slopes and campus to break.</problem>
<problem name="Flakey" id="281" stars="***" number="3a" grade="V8" extra="(Hang)" fa="" length="">Hang start under roof as for "Flaked", make a big move and finish as for Campuseis</problem>
<problem name="Flake Out" id="159" stars=" " number="4." grade="V9" extra=" ">Start on undercling, out to slopes and up Camuseis.</problem>
<problem name="" id="160" stars="" number="4a." grade="V?" extra="(Highball, Stand)" new="false">There is a steep crack line heading out to the arete from the horizontal break at the end of Flake Out. This has probably been top roped in the past, but it would make a great highball finish to Flake Out.</problem>
<text class="text" id="161">There are a variety of dead hangs on the dimples right of Campuseis. There are also various hang problems in the offwidth, including a foot hang and a chest hang.</text>
<problem name="Pull" id="162" stars=" " number="5." grade="V5" extra=" ">Hang start on edge and throw to break.</problem>
<image id="163" height="443" src="Coles Bayseven.JPG"/>
<problem name="Highball" id="164" stars=" " number="1." grade="V3" extra=" ">Up slab.</problem>
<problem name="Highball2" id="165" stars=" " number="2." grade="V2" extra=" ">Out to arete and up.</problem>
<problem name="Crash Pad" id="166" stars=" " number="3." grade="V2" extra=" ">Up face.</problem>
<problem name="Sitter" id="167" stars=" " number="4." grade="V4" extra=" ">Sit start and up.</problem>
<problem name="Lope" id="168" stars=" " number="5." grade="V3" extra=" ">Sit start, dyno up to jug.</problem>
<image id="169" height="184" src="Coles Bayeight.JPG"/>
<text class="text" id="170">This is the face underneath the main block, there have been many problems done on this piece of rock, all of them within the grade range from V0 to V3, so take your shoes and chalk bag and go exploring.</text>
<text class="text" id="171">A full traverse has been done right the way around the zawn to the platform opposite, the blank wall past the platform awaits a traverse. Keep an eye on the sea - it is hard to get out of the water if there is any swell around</text>
<text class="pagebreak" id="172"/>
<text class="heading3" id="257">Lassie's Wall</text>
<text id="259">The next boulder is on the ramp above Lassie's Wall</text>
<image id="270" height="414" src="Lassie block2.jpg" legend="true" legendx="450" legendTitle="Lassie's Block">
<legend>262</legend>
<legend>263</legend>
<legend>264</legend>
</image>
<problem id="261" number="1" grade="V?" extra="(SDS)">On the uphill side, climb the large underclings. Not sure who orignially climbed this.</problem>
<problem id="262" number="2" grade="V?" extra="(SDS)">Face.</problem>
<problem id="263" number="3" grade="V?" extra="(Stand)">Arete</problem>
<problem id="264" number="4" grade="V?" extra="(SDS)">Face.</problem>
<text id="265">The following problems are on the far righthand side of Lassie's Wall cliffs.</text>
<image id="266" height="622" src="Lassies Nose 2.jpg" legend="true" legendx="255" legendTitle="Lassie's Snout">
<legend>267</legend>
<legend>269</legend>
</image>
<problem id="267" number="1" grade="V?" extra="(Stand)">Climb the lefthand crack.</problem>
<problem id="268" number="2" grade="V?" extra="(Stand)">Climb the overhanging arete, either from the left (easy) or from the right (harder).</problem>
<problem name="" id="269" stars="" number="3" grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" fa="M. Hitchcock 2010, but previous ascents likely." length="">Climb the righthand crack.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="173">Friendly Point Road</text>
<text class="text" id="174">The boulders below can be found on the Coles Bay Dam Road leading out to Friendly Point. Only a couple of problems have been done, but potential exists for quite a few more although extensive cleaning is required.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="175">Tamogochi Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="176">This boulder is the third boulder on the left and is about 5m off the side of the road. The problems marked below have been cleaned.</text>
<image id="177" height="400" width="300" src="Coles Bay - Friendly Pointtamogochi_a.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Tamogochi Boulder">
<legend>
<climb>178</climb>
<climb>179</climb>
<climb>180</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name="Kate+Jules Prob" id="178" stars="*" number="1." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Up the face right of the arete.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="179" stars=" " number="2." grade="V2?" extra=" "/>
<problem name=" " id="180" stars=" " number="3." grade="V6" extra=" "/>
<text class="heading2" id="181">Friendly Point</text>
<text class="access" id="182">These problems are at the Friendly Point crag. From the end of the road to the southern end of Friendly Beaches, walk south around the coast for 20-30 minutes until you turn a corner and come across a substantial crag with several sport routes. You'll come out on the top of the sport routes, with the boulders down below. To get down follow the stepped flake that separates the two tiers on the right (While looking south).</text>
<text id="202">There is also a small boulder on top of the cliffs, with some easy problems.</text>
<image id="183" height="360" src="Coles Bayfp.jpg" legendTitle="Friendly Point Boulder" legend="true" legendx="311" legendy="257">
<legend>
<climb>184</climb>
<climb>185</climb>
<climb>186</climb>
<climb>187</climb>
<climb>188</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem name=" " id="184" stars=" " number="1." grade="V?" extra=" ">Mini Person project.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="185" stars=" " number="2." grade="V7?" extra="(Stand)">Straight up seam, sitdown potential also exists.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="186" stars=" " number="3." grade="V5?" extra="(SDS)">Start under the rooflet.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="187" stars=" " number="4." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)">Up crack and arete.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="188" stars=" " number="5." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Sit start under the rooflet. Its a bit tricky coming around corner and nicer to do as a stand start, starting where Bisso is climbing.</problem>
</guide>
|
Overview
Content Tools