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<guide version="3" guidestars="*" pagesize="150">
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<header nameid="Mt Wellington562" rockname="SandstoneThe Springs andBouldering doleritearea" walk="0min to 30min" sun="MixedMostly sun and shadeshade" rock="Sandstone" acknowledgement="" intro="MtThis area Wellingtoncontains offersthe somehighest gooddensity opportunitiesof forsandstone bouldering. on ItsMount aWellington. bitSome scattered,good andproblems doleritefrom isvertical anto acquired taste for bouldering. But there are lots of problems, particularly moderates with easy access for after work climbing.steep. <br/><br/>Great sloper problems. Though, bring a brush because if they're sandy - add a few grades." history="" access="From the centre of Hobart drive up Davey Street, which becomes Huon Road, for 9.6km. Just before Fern Tree a well sign posted road (Pillinger Drive) leads off sharply to the right and winds up the mountain. Follow this for 4.2km to reach the Springs. Another 2.5km further on is a small parking bay on the left hand side of the road, which is the parking area for the Organ Pipes. To reach Lost World continue up past the parking area for a few more kilometres to a big leftwards bend in the road (9.1 km from the turn off). Keep going up the road to reach the Summit. The areas are described in the order you reach them up Pinnacle Rd." id="562"/>
<image id="3" width="" src="map2.jpg" height="553">null</image>
<text class="access" id="4">Mt Wellington access map derived from the Organ Pipes Guide.</text>
<gps id="6"<br/>There are a number of car parks here." camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<gps id="6">
<point zone="55G" northing="5248192" easting="520487" longitude="147.25102" latitude="-42.91862" description="Reids Track Boulder" pid="9" height="615" code="MWB480"/>
<point zone="55G" northing="5248234" easting="520556" longitude="147.25186" latitude="-42.91824" description="March Fly Slab" pid="10" height="623" code="MWB485"/>
<point zone="55G" northing="5248780" easting="520585" longitude="147.25220" latitude="-42.91331" description="Rocky Whelan's Cave" pid="21"/>
<point heightzone="61555G" codenorthing="MWB4805248369" easting="520487520450" northinglongitude="5248192147.25056" zonelatitude="55G" latitude="--42.9186291702" longitudedescription="147.25102Symbiosis" pid="9" description="Reids Track Boulder22"/>
<point heightzone="62355G" codenorthing="MWB4855248349" easting="520556520457" northinglongitude="5248234147.25065" zone="55G" latitude="-42.9182491720" longitudedescription="147.25186Lookout boulder" pid="10" description="March Fly Slab"23"/>
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<point heightzone="055G" codenorthing="MWB9205248295" easting="520235520494" northinglongitude="5249664147.25111" zone="55G" latitude="-42.9053791768" longitudedescription="147.24788Jungle Block" pid="12" description="Tiger Snake Boulder"25"/>
<point heightzone="055G" codenorthing="MWB9305248574" easting="520199520531" northinglongitude="5249623147.25155" zone="55G" latitude="-42.9057491517" longitudedescription="147.24744Two Mat " pid="13" description="Sphinx Nose"26"/>
<point eastingzone="51956555G" northing="5249731" easting="5249781520161" zonelongitude="55G147.24697" latitude="-42.9043390477" longitudedescription="147.23967Nerms Boulder" pid="2011" descriptionheight="736"Awesome Bouldercode="MWB910"/>
<point pidzone="2155G" descriptionnorthing="Rocky Whelan's Cave5249664" easting="520235" longitude="147.24788" latitude="-42.9133190537" longitudedescription="147.25220Tiger Snake Boulder" eastingpid="52058512" northingheight="52487800" zonecode="55GMWB920"/>
</gps>
<text<point classzone="heading155G" idnorthing="6285249623">Rocky Whelan's Cave</text>
<text class="intro" id="629">Rocky Whelan easting="520199" longitude="147.24744" latitude="-42.90574" description="Sphinx Nose" pid="13" height="0" code="MWB930"/>
<point zone="55G" northing="5249781" easting="519565" longitude="147.23967" latitude="-42.90433" description="Awesome Boulder" pid="20"/>
</gps>
<text class="heading1" id="628">Rocky Whelan's Cave</text>
<text class="intro" id="629">Rocky Whelan's Cave bouldering is steep and juggy which makes for fun. <br/>The rock is generally compact with iron rich veins that makes edges strong enough to huck on. The problems here have been finished at prominent ‘send’ jugs below the top due to the major task of cleaning the top. There remain plenty of new problems, variations and eliminates, lip traverse anyone?<br/><br/>Climbs are sent by cutting feet loose while on the send jugs, it is suggested that you then down climb until you feel comfortable jumping off. <br/>The cave faces North and remains dry in all but the worst of conditions.<br/><br/>The cave has ‘historical significance’ at least to one passer-by, who also mentioned the painted circles appeared after a documentary was filmed at the cave. So if you don’t mind bouldering at the haunt of a murderous bush ranger and more recently lovers, this is the place for you.<br/><br/>Drive up the pinnacle road approximately 2km. Park in the parking bay 10m past the end of the track. Walk up the track until you see the Rocky Whelan Cave sign, approx. 3 min.</text>
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<climb>632</climb>
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<climb>634</climb>
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<problem nameid="632" idname="632" lengthstars="" fanumber="1." extragrade="VE" gradeextra="VE" numberfa="1" starslength=""/>
<problem nameid="633" idname="633" lengthstars="" fanumber="2." extragrade="V0" gradeextra="V0" numberfa="2" starslength=""/>
<problem id="634" name="Peace Symbol" idstars="634" lengthnumber="3." fagrade="VE" extra="(Highball, Stand)" gradefa="VE" numberlength="3" stars="">Start at the peace symbol. VE if you use the tree.</problem>
<problem nameid="?643" idname="643?" lengthstars="" fanumber="4." extragrade="" gradeextra="" numberfa="4" starslength=""/>
<problem nameid="?635" idname="635?" lengthstars="" fanumber="5." extragrade="" gradeextra="" numberfa="5" starslength=""/>
<image id="630" width="400" src="lr-rw1.jpg" height="498496" width="400">
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<legend>
<climb>636</climb>
<climb>637</climb>
<climb>638</climb>
<climb>644</climb>
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<problem id="636" name="Physical Romance" idstars="636" lengthnumber="6." fagrade="V0" extra="(Highball, SDS)" gradefa="V0" numberlength="6" stars="">Start on the holds at the back of the little cave, with foot on the rail. Climb out and up on big holds to the send jug.</problem>
<problem id="637" name="Kat Leonie" idstars="637" lengthnumber="7." fagrade="V0" extra="(Highball, SDS)" gradefa="V0" number="7" starslength="">Start on the lower rail, climb to the hole then finish up PR.</problem>
<problem id="638" name="Matt loves Nat" idstars="638**" lengthnumber="8." fagrade="V1" extra="(Hang)" grade="V1" numberfa="8" starslength="**">Hang on the Matt loves Nat holds. Climb straight through the hole then finish on PR send jug. This has a great double handed dyno from the starting holds worth doing just for that.</problem>
<problem id="644" name="Cheating Heart" idstars="644**" lengthnumber="9." fagrade="V3" extra="(Highball, SDS)" gradefa="V3" number="9" starslength="**">Start as for Physical Romance and finish up Mat loves Nat (keep feet above the undercut, not as contrived as it sounds).</problem>
<image id="639" width="400" src="lr-rw2.jpg" height="711" width="400">
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<legend>
<climb>645</climb>
<climb>640</climb>
<climb>641</climb>
<climb>642</climb>
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</image>
<problem id="645" name="Big A" idstars="645" lengthnumber="10." fagrade="V1" extra="(Hang)" gradefa="V1" number="10" starslength="">Hang from the holds on the lip under the big A. Head for the incut ledge and finish right.</problem>
<problem id="640" name="Glen loves Eva" idstars="640" lengthnumber="11." fagrade="V2" extra="(Highball, SDS)" gradefa="V2" numberlength="11" stars="">Start with both hands on the low rail.</problem>
<problem id="641" name="2018" idstars="641" lengthnumber="12." fagrade="V3" extra="(Highball, SDS)" gradefa="V3" numberlength="12" stars="">Start on the prominent jug.</problem>
<problem nameid="?642" idname="642?" lengthstars="" fanumber="13." extragrade="" gradeextra="" numberfa="13" starslength=""/>
<text class="heading2" id="364">The Springs</text>
<text classid="intro733" idclass="365text">There>The areSprings someproper niceis sandstonethe bouldersarea atof theSandstone Springs,escarpments withand someboulders goodaround slopey problems</text>
<image id="366" width="500" src="springs-topo.jpg" height="568"/>
<text class="access" id="367">Park at the lookout, about 100m before the Springs picnic area. The roadside boulder is visible on the left just past the parking area. Walk up the road for about 30m until you can see boulders in the trees to the right. Bash through the bush to find the furthest left boulder, this is the Symbiosis boulder.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="368">Lookout Boulder</text>
<text class="access" id="369">The first problems are on the obvious boulder at the top end of the parking area</text>
<image id="370" src="Mt Wellingtoncarpark.jpg" height="341"/>
<problem name=" " id="371" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="1." stars=" ">Sitstart at bottom of boulder and up and to the right</problem>
<problem name=" " id="372" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="2." stars=" ">Sitstart on back of boulder</problem>
<problem name=" " id="373" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="3." stars=" ">Sitstart further left. There are a few variations on the back of this boulder</problem>
<text class="text" id="374">30m down the hill from the Lookout Boulder is Choose Your Own Adventure Boulder.</text>
<problem name="" id="375" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="1." stars="">Short dirty face left of treethe Springs. The black and whit image below was taken immediately after the bushfires. There are a surprising number of buttresses in the area some of which lent themselves to beginner top roping back in the day, sadly most of the outcrops aren't much good for bouldering.</text>
<image id="366" src="springs-topo.jpg" height="566" width="500">
<drawing>
<rect id="25897" x="439" y="24" width="40" height="23" style="white_outline" text="FGS" arrowDirection="west"/>
</drawing>
</image>
<text id="721" class="heading3">Fat Guy Security Boulder</text>
<text id="722" class="text">Just after the fingerpost track crosses the road there is a yellow corner sign. Park just passed the sign where there is plenty of room.<br/>The boulder is below the yellow sign.</text>
<image id="723" width="300" height="533" legend="true" src="Fat gut security boulder.jpg" legendx="12" legendy="464">
<drawing>
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</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>725</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="724" stars="" extra="" number="14." name="Lock the gate" length="" grade="V0" fa="">Left of Snow Forecast.</problem>
<problem nameid="Choose Your Own Adventure725" idstars="376**" extra="(Highball, StandSDS)" gradenumber="V215." numbername="2.Snow Forecast" starslength="*">The steep western side of the boulder. Starts on nice jugs which lead to a slopey topoutgrade="V4" fa="">Varied climbing to an interesting top.</problem>
<problem<text nameclass="heading3" id="377" extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" number="3." stars="">Long slab368">Lookout Boulders</text>
<text class="text" id="367">Park at the lookout, about 100m before the Springs picnic area. The roadside boulder is visible on the bottomleft sidejust ofpast the parking area. The boulder. In its natural state.</problem>
<text class="text" id="378">The next problem is on the bottom face of a boulder on about the same level as Choose Your Own Adventure, and another 20m across the hillKarma boulder is 10m to the left and down the hill. Walk up the road for about 30m until you can see boulders in the trees to the right. Bash through the bush to find the furthest left boulder, this is the Symbiosis boulder.</text>
<problem name="Sticky"<text id="379730" extraclass="(Hang)text">The grade="V3" number="" stars="*">Low hang start off arete, up to slopey top out.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="380">Symbiosis Boulder</text>
<text class="access" id="381">Walk up the road for about 50m past the parking area until you see some grey boulders in the bush to the right. The Symbiosis boulder is the furthest boulder to the leftKarma boulder is 10m to the left of the obvious boulder at the end of the carpark.</text>
<image id="382731" width="400" height="615" src="sym3karma dude.jpg" heightlegend="342">null</image>true">
<drawing>
<problem name="Chip Butty" <path id="65999220" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0/1" number="" stars="">Cramped SDS under furthest lefthand 'wall'. Stays left of the crack, and the block footer lower left is out. Up wall, using left arete.</problem>
<problem name="" id="383" length="" fa="" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" number="1" stars="">Start just to the left of the ingrown tree with both hands below the bulge. Up and left through bulge. Easier (V3) if you start with one hand above bulge.</problem>
<problem name="Synergy" id="658" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" number="" stars="*">Start as for V5 (No. 1), but go left all the way to finish up Chip Butty. Easier (V3/4) if you start with one hand above the bulge. Block footer lower left is out.</problem>
<problem name="Symbiosis" id="384" length="" fa="points="210.0,242.0, 209.0,242.0, 203.0,138.0, 223.0,87.0," d="M210.0,242.0C209.6,242.0 209.0,242.4 209.0,242.0C209.0,241.6 201.0,159.8 203.0,138.0C205.0,116.2 215.0,107.4 223.0,87.0" arrow="true" linkedTo="732"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>732</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="732" stars="**" extra="(Stand)" number="16." name="Karma, dude" length="" grade="V5" fa="">Unusual problem for the area, slabby foot up work.</problem>
<text class="text" id="369">The next problems are on the obvious boulder at the top end of the parking area</text>
<image id="370" src="Mt Wellingtoncarpark.jpg" height="341">
<drawing>
<path id="6149" points="59.0,252.0," d="M59.0,252.0" linkedTo="371"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>371</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="371" name=" " stars=" " number="17." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Sitstart grade="V6" number="2" stars="***">(No. 2 in pic) Sit start under the bulge of rock just to the right of the ingrown tree. Up on awesome slopes, a great problem.</problem>
<problem name="Synonym" id="670" length="" fa="CWat bottom of boulder and up and to the right</problem>
<problem id="372" name=" " stars=" " number="18." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5/6" number="" stars="**">Start as for Symbiosis but go left under bulge to finish up Synergy.</problem>
<problem name="V5 Extended" id="669" length="" fa="CW>Sitstart on back of boulder</problem>
<problem id="373" name=" " stars=" " number="19." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Sitstart grade="V5" number="" stars="*">Start as for Symbiosis but go left under bulge to finish up V5.<further left. There are a few variations on the back of this boulder</problem>
<problem<text nameclass="Monkey Puzzletext" id="385" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Stand)" grade="V4/5" number="5." stars="**">Hard slab right of Symbosis and 1m left of arete. Mega high step onto slab, then delicately up. Having more than one mat down for the starting move is cheating. Technnical.374">30m down the hill from the Lookout Boulder is Choose Your Own Adventure Boulder.</text>
<problem id="375" name="" stars="" number="20." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)">Short dirty face left of tree.</problem>
<problem nameid="Tensegrity376" idname="602Choose Your Own Adventure" lengthstars="*" fanumber="CW21." grade="V2" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V4/5" number="6." stars="**">Start as for Monkey Puzzle, traverse left across face/slab, finish as for Symbiosis. Tenuous>The steep western side of the boulder. Starts on nice jugs which lead to a slopey topout.</problem>
<problem id="377" name="" idstars="386" lengthnumber="22." fagrade="VE" extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" number="7." stars="">Slabby arete 4m right of Symbiosis<>Long slab on the bottom side of the boulder. In its natural state.</problem>
<text class="accesstext" id="387378">The next problemsproblem areis inon the grotty cave</text>
<problem name="Spider Pig" id="388" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" number="8." stars="**">Start both hands on back wall of grotty cave. Undercling/jamb/layback/twist etc to come up and out of cave, across the gap, and finish up the right-hand wall.<br/><br/></problem>
<problem name=" " id="389" length="" fa="bottom face of a boulder on about the same level as Choose Your Own Adventure, and another 20m across the hill.</text>
<problem id="379" name="Sticky" stars="*" number="23." grade="V3" extra="(SDSHang)" grade="V?" number="9." stars="">Project - middle corner of cave<>Low hang start off arete, up to slopey top out.</problem>
<problem<text nameclass="Astrobabyheading3" id="584380" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="10." stars="">Start with both hands on the good flat hold on right side of main cave, pull into and thrutch/grovel THROUGH the slot to finish up the V0 arete (to the right of Symbiosis). Feet can work along the back wall of the "grotty cave". Not the most pleasant experience, but kind of fun. <br/><br/>(Starting hold now broken off.)</problem>
<problem name=" " id="390" length="" fa="" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="11." stars="">High step onto slab on right side of cave, just left of chockstone block. SDS is a project.</problem>
<problem name="One Great Moment In Evolution" id="618" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1/2" number="12.." stars="">SDS at base of previous problem (as per The Undergate). Move right and chimney thrutch grovel onto top of chockstone block, finish up V3 on left. Old school. <br/><br/></problem>
<problem name="The Undergate" id="580" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" number="13." stars="">Start under V3 just left of chockstone block, traverse left to corner, finish up Spider Pig.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="391" length="" fa="" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" number="14." stars="">Arete to the right.</problem>
<problem name="Mini Cave Wave" id="593" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="15." stars="">Behind the chockstone block is a small 'cave'. SDS on right, move left and up and over slopey lip. Don't use either of the small boulders on the ground.</problem>
<problem name=" " id="392" length="" fa="" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="16." stars="">On the next block further right from the previous problem. On the far, highest face sitstart in middle of face and up and left to slopey topout.</problem>
<problem name="Training for Font 3" id="595" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" number="17." stars="*">Start with both hands on the right-hand edge of the o/hung 'nose' at the left end of the main face. Traverse right along good slopey rail and around arête to finish up Training for Font 1.<br/></problem>
<problem name="Training for Font 2" id="591" length="" fa="CW>Symbiosis Boulder</text>
<text class="access" id="381">Walk up the road for about 50m past the parking area until you see some grey boulders in the bush to the right. The Symbiosis boulder is the furthest boulder to the left.</text>
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<climb>659</climb>
<climb>383</climb>
<climb>384</climb>
<climb>385</climb>
<climb>602</climb>
<climb>386</climb>
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<problem id="659" name="Chip Butty" stars="" number="24." grade="V0/1" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Cramped SDS under furthest lefthand 'wall'. Stays left of the crack, and the block footer lower left is out. Up wall, using left arete.</problem>
<problem id="383" name="" stars="" number="25." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start just to the left of the ingrown tree with both hands below the bulge. Up and left through bulge. Easier (V3) if you start with one hand above bulge.</problem>
<problem id="384" name="Symbiosis" stars="***" number="26." grade="V6" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V2" numberlength="18." stars="*">SDS just left of right arete">Sit start under the bulge of rock just to the right of the ingrown tree. Up viaon slopeyawesome holdsslopes, finisha as for Training for Font 1great problem.</problem>
<problem<text nameclass="Training for Font 1text" id="588718" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="19." stars="">Right wall of the right arête. Straight up using good holds top left, pull through to dish (wet).</problem>
<problem name="Full Fontal (par grotte) " id="596" length="" fa="CW>A few variations have been done by linking Symbiosis to Chip Butty. The longest is Synonym (V5/6, FA: CW), which starts on Symbiosis and ends on Chip Butty. A variety of other combinations have been done as independent sections, but are all pretty much combined in same things as Synonym.</text>
<problem id="602" name="Tensegrity" stars="" number="27." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" gradefa="V2/3CW" numberlength="20.">Start stars="*">Start as for Training for Font 1Monkey Puzzle, traverse left along good rail, pull up and into the 'cave' formed by the nose on the arête. Through cave and left along low faceacross face/slab, finish topas out using obvious jugs. Don't use the big block under the arêtefor Symbiosis.</problem>
<problem id="385" name="Full Fontal Full Fontal (atour arete arrondie) " id="597" length="" fa="CWMonkey Puzzle" stars="*" number="28." grade="V6" extra="(Stand)" gradefa="V2/3CW" numberlength="20a." stars="*">Start as for Training for Font 1, traverse left along good rail, pull up and go around outside of the nose on the arête (feet under). Finish as for previous problem. Don't use the big block under the arête>Hard slab right of Symbosis and 1m left of arete. Mega high step onto slab, then delicately up. Having more than one mat down for the starting move is cheating. Technnical.</problem>
<problem id="386" name="Fontanel" idstars="598" lengthnumber="29." fagrade="CWV0" extra="(Stand)" gradefa="V2/3" numberlength="21." stars="*">Start with both hands on the right-hand edge of the o/hung 'nose' at the left end of the main face. Traverse around outside of nose then straight up via match and mantle on edge of dish/bowl (often wet) .Don't use the big block under the arête.</problem>
<problem name="Fontanel Éxtension " id="599" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2/3" number="22." stars="">Start as for Training for Font 1, traverse left along good rail to finish as for Fontanel. Don't use the big block under the arête.</problem>
<problem name="Fontanel Commencer á Gauche " id="600" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2/3" number="23." stars="*">Start with both hands on the finishing jugs for Full Fontal. Traverse right to finish up Fontanel.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="660">The Shire</text>
<text class="text" id="661">Next boulder directly left of Symbiosis Boulder.</text>
<problem name="Gandalf For Certain This Time" id="662" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="1." stars="*">SDS on right side of right arete/faux prow. Up via mantle, slopey topout. Any use of foliage or touching ground cheating.</problem>
<problem name="The Prancing Pony" id="663" length="" fa="CW>Slabby arete 4m right of Symbiosis</problem>
<text class="access" id="387">The next problems are in the grotty cave</text>
<image id="729" src="Sy_2.jpg" height="422" width="900">
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<legend>
<climb>388</climb>
<climb>389</climb>
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<problem id="388" name="Spider Pig" stars="**" number="30." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V1/2CW" numberlength="2." stars="">SDS just right>Start crouched, both hands on back wall of Samgrotty Gamgeecave. Don’t use protrusion/block on left. Trends slightly right. Slopey topout. Any use of foliage or touching ground cheating.Undercling/jamb/layback/twist etc to come up and out of cave, across the gap, and finish up the right-hand wall.<br/><br/></problem>
<problem id="720" name="SamCharlotte GamgeeSometimes" idstars="664" lengthnumber="31." fagrade="CWV2/3" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V0/1CW" numberlength="3.">Start stars="">Lying down start directly under protruding block, both hands on obvious sidepull, both feet on right footer. Up on good holds, slopey topout. Any use of foliage or touching gtound cheatingcrouched as for Spider Pig, move left and up and out, staying on the left wall - everything on right side is off limits. Low-down, trickier than it looks.</problem>
<problem id="389" name="UnderhillThree-horned bird" idstars="665**" lengthnumber="32." fagrade="CWV7" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V2"Alex number=Hartshorne"4." starslength="*">SDS>Start underin obviousback overhangof justcave passedon fauxtwo grooveflat leftsidepulls. ofMove previousup problem.through Slopeysmall topoutv-slot onto highesta roundedtricky bulgemantle. Any use of foliage or touching ground cheating<br/>Named after the three-horned bird orchid's growing on the adjacent boulder.</problem>
<problem id="584" name="The Real HeroAstrobaby" idstars="668" lengthnumber="33." fagrade="CWV1" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V2/3CW" numberlength="5." stars="*">Lying down start as per Sam Gamgee, traverse immediately left to finish up Underhill. A great series of moves...</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="393">Jungle Block</text>
<text class="access" id="394">There are a lot of scattered boulders in the jungle below the road. To find this one stand at the look out, and look for some small blocks to south. Walk down to these, and follow the rough track down the hill for 20m or so. You should then be able to see the block down to the right.</text>
<image id="395" src="Mt Wellingtonjungle.jpg" height="341"/>
<problem name="Ferny" id="396" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="" stars="">Layback up the left arete>Start with both hands on the good flat hold on right side of main cave, pull into and thrutch/grovel THROUGH the slot to finish up the V0 arete (to the right of Symbiosis). Feet can work along the back wall of the "grotty cave". Not the most pleasant experience, but kind of fun. <br/><br/>(Starting hold now broken off.)</problem>
<problem id="390" name=" " stars="" number="34." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">High step onto slab on right side of cave, just left of chockstone block. SDS is a project.</problem>
<problem id="618" name="One Great Moment In Evolution" stars="" idnumber="35." grade="397V1/2" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V2CW" numberlength="" stars="">Start as for Ferny and traverse rightwards around the whole boulder.>SDS at base of previous problem (as per The Undergate). Move right and chimney thrutch grovel onto top of chockstone block, finish up V3 on left. Old school. <br/><br/></problem>
<problem nameid="Slotted580" idname="398"The extra="(SDS)" gradeUndergate" stars="V5" number="1136." starsgrade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Start under V3 just ">Sitleft startof 1mchockstone leftblock, oftraverse theleft areteto atcorner, mailfinish slot.up UpSpider facePig.</problem>
<problem id="391" name=" " idstars="399" extranumber="(SDS)37." grade="V4V2" numberextra="12.(Stand)" starsfa="" length="">Arete to ">Up arete<the right.</problem>
<problem id="593" name="Mini Cave Wave" stars="" number="38." idgrade="400V0" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V1CW" numberlength="13." stars=">Behind the chockstone block is a ">Easy face 2m right of arete</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="401">Big boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="402">To get to this group of boulders head down the track to Jungle block, but instead of turning right, keep going down the hill for another 50m or so. The first of the reasonable boulders is Big boulder just below Big boulder is Ripper boulder.</text>
<image id="403" width="300" src="BigBoulderRightArete Topo.jpg" height="452"/>
<problem name="" id="404" extra="" grade="V?" number="1." stars="">The southern arete</problem>
<problem name="" id="405" extra="" grade="V?" number="2." stars="">The line of 'weakness' in the centre of the block.</problem>
<problem name="" id="406" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="3." stars="">Stand start from the jug, up the arete. Bad landing. The sit start should go, but its a bit awkward.</problem>
<text id="407"/>
<text class="heading3" id="408">Ripper Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="409">Bottom boulder is a relatively clean boulder that contains a few traverse possibilities and good viewing/relaxation platform, just below Big boulder.</text>
<image id="410" width="200" src="BottomBoulderTopo.jpg" height="400">null</image>
<problem name="Little Ripper" id="411" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="1." stars="*">Left side of arete. Sit start is a project.</problem>
<problem name="Busted Arse Syndrome" id="412" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="" stars="">Sit start at arete, do a couple of move up, then pull on to right facesmall 'cave'. SDS on right, move left and up and over slopey lip. Don't use either of the small boulders on the ground.</problem>
<problem id="726" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="39." name="Ugly Bug Ball" length="" grade="V2" fa="CW">On the next boulder just passed Mini Cave Wave, sit start with right hand on good hold (chest height), left on side-pull, left foot out wide on good footer, right around 'arete' on small edge (or smearing), up. Short but sweet.</problem>
<problem id="727" stars="**" extra="(SDS)" number="40." name="The Windshield " length="" grade="V2/3" fa="CE">SDS under overhanging right side of Ugly Bug Ball, left hand on good hold as for UBB, right hand/foot out wide to right. Slap up onto 'nose', pull around to finish up UBB. An excellent problem!</problem>
<problem id="671" name="Tailbone" stars="" number="41." grade="V0/1" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">) On the furthest arete right of main boulder. SDS straddling arete, up arete.</problem>
<problem id="392" name=" " stars="" number="42." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">On the next block further right from the Symbiosis Boulder. On the far, highest face sitstart in middle of face and up and left to slopey topout.</problem>
<problem nameid="595" idname="413" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0Training for Font 3" stars="*" number="243." starsgrade="V2">Sit start and up slab 1m right of arete.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="414">Moss Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="415">Go directly downhill from Ripper Boulder for another 10m to this boulder.</text>
<problem name="" id="416" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="1." stars="">Left side of slab</problem>
<problem name="Towards a Moss Free World" id="417" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="2." stars="">Sit start on right side of face, follow ramp leftwards extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Start with both hands on the right-hand edge of the o/hung 'nose' at the left end of the main face. Traverse right along good slopey rail and around arête to finish up Training for Font 1.<br/></problem>
<problem id="591" name="Training for Font 2" stars="*" number="44." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">SDS just left of right arete. Up via slopey holds, finish as for Training for Font 1.</problem>
<problem id="588" name="Training for Font 1" stars="" number="45." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Right wall of the right arête. Straight up using good holds top left, pull through to dish (wet).</problem>
<problem id="596" name="Full Fontal (par grotte) " idstars="418*" extranumber="(SDS)46." grade="V3V2/3" numberextra="3.(Stand)" starsfa="*CW">The bottom overhanging face of the boulder.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="419">Handlebar Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="420">Below the road at the lookout is an extensive outcrop of sandstone. Handlebar boulder is the southern most boulder of this outcrop. Drop down hill at the end of the metal barrier then follow the base of the outcrop.</text>
<image id="421" width="" src="HandlebarTopoSmall.jpg" height="400"/>
<problem name="" id="422" length="">Start as for Training for Font 1, traverse left along good rail, pull up and into the 'cave' formed by the nose on the arête. Through cave and left along low face, finish top out using obvious jugs. Don't use the big block under the arête.</problem>
<problem id="597" name="Full Fontal (atour arete arrondie) " stars="*" number="47." grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)" gradefa="V2/3CW" numberlength="1." stars="">Up left hand side of face.</problem>
<problem name="Slip" id="423" extra="(Stand)" grade="V3" number="2." stars="">Up arete to slope and crimp then to top<">Start as for Training for Font 1, traverse left along good rail, pull up and go around outside of the nose on the arête (feet under). Finish as for previous problem. Don't use the big block under the arête.</problem>
<problem id="706" name="Full Fontal Finale" idstars="424" extranumber="(Stand)48." grade="V2V1" numberextra="3.(SDS)" starsfa="CW">Up the centre of the slab using neither arete length="">Just left of Fontanel directly under obvious finishing holds, SDS to finish up the Full Fontal variants.</problem>
<problem name="" id="425598" extraname="(Stand)Fontanel" gradestars="VE*" number="449." starsgrade="">Up right arete.</problem>
<problem name="Tiptoe" id="426"V2/3" extra="(Stand)" gradefa="V3CW" numberlength="5." stars="*">Traverse left to slope on Slip . Finish as for 1.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="427" guide.action="submit" guide.id="371" guide.page="2" guide.type="text">Paratrooper Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="428">This boulder/outcrop is shady and probably moist. Park at the lookout and walk back down the road for 150 metres.</text>
<image id="429" width="400" src="ParaTrooperSmallArrows.jpg" height="260"/>
<problem name="" id="430" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="1." stars="">Move up on side pulls and crimps.</problem>
<problem name="" id="431" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="2." stars="">Start under bulge pull up to slope and top>Start with both hands on the right-hand edge of the o/hung 'nose' at the left end of the main face. Traverse around outside of nose then straight up via match and mantle on edge of dish/bowl (often wet) .Don't use the big block under the arête.</problem>
<problem id="599" name="Fontanel Éxtension " stars="" number="50." grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Start as for Training for Font 1, traverse left along good rail to finish as for Fontanel. Don't use the big block under the arête.</problem>
<text<problem classid="heading3600" idname="432">ReidsFontanel Track Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="433">To find this nice boulder head down Radfords Track from the Springs, then down Reids Track for about 100m. Just a bit after you pass a chunk of sandstone on the right is a rough track through the bush on the right which leads to the boulder. GPS MWB480 helps!</text>
<problem name="" id="434" extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" number="1." stars="">Easy face around to the L</problem>
<problem name="" id="435" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="2." stars="">Left arete of front face</problem>
<problem name="" id="436Commencer á Gauche " stars="*" number="51." grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Start with both hands on the finishing jugs for Full Fontal. Traverse right to finish up Fontanel.</problem>
<problem id="707" name="Neuroplasticity" stars="*" number="52." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="CA" length="">On the first part of the Fontal etc boulder you come to (furthest left), awkward SDS up the obvious slab. Harder than it looks - low footers, awkward balancey move using left arete to get left foot on slab proper, easier finish. Makes you think!</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="660">The Shire</text>
<text class="text" id="661">Next boulder directly left of Symbiosis Boulder.</text>
<problem id="662" name="Gandalf For Certain This Time" stars="*" number="53." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V2CW" numberlength="3." stars="*">Juggy line R>SDS on right side of right arete from awkward sit start</faux prow. Up via mantle, slopey topout. Any use of foliage or touching ground cheating.</problem>
<problem id="663" name="The TippingPrancing PointPony" idstars="437" lengthnumber="54." fagrade="CWV1/2" extra="(StandSDS)" gradefa="V4/5CW" numberlength="4." stars="***">Great line up steep thin face.</problem>
<problem name="Don't Snap Ya Fucker" id="438" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="5." stars="**">The R arete starting off the block<>SDS just right of Sam Gamgee. Don’t use protrusion/block on left. Trends slightly right. Slopey topout. Any use of foliage or touching ground cheating.</problem>
<problem id="664" name="TheSam Midas TouchGamgee" idstars="439" lengthnumber="55." fagrade="CWV0/1" extra="(SDS)" gradefa="V4CW" numberlength="6." stars="**">Technical line up middle of right face, starting SDS just right of centre, moves slightly left.</problem>
<problem name="" id="440" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="7." stars="">Far R arete</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="441">March Fly Slab</text>
<text class="text" id="442">This little slab is about 50m in the scrub about 15m up from where you turn off for Reids Boulder, on the opposite side of the track. GPS MWB485.</text>
<problem name="" id="443" extra="(Stand)" grade="V0" number="1." stars="*">Left arete</problem>
<problem name="" id="444" extra="(Stand)" grade="V?" number="2." stars="">Up middle of slab</problem>
<problem name="" id="445" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2?" number="3." stars="">R side of slab<>Lying down start directly under protruding block, both hands on obvious sidepull, both feet on right footer. Up on good holds, slopey topout. Any use of foliage or touching gtound cheating.</problem>
<problem id="665" name="Underhill" stars="*" number="56." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">SDS under obvious overhang just passed faux groove left of previous problem. Slopey topout on highest rounded bulge. Any use of foliage or touching ground cheating.</problem>
<problem id="668" name="The Real Hero" stars="*" number="57." grade="V2/3" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Lying down start as per Sam Gamgee, traverse immediately left to finish up Underhill. A great series of moves...</problem>
<text class="heading2heading3" id="446393" guide.action="submit" guide.id="376" guide.page="2" guide.type="text">Two Mat Boulders<>Jungle Block</text>
<text class="textaccess" id="447394">There are twoa approacheslot toof thisscattered boulderboulders group. Walk up from in the roadjungle directly below the bouldersroad. TheTo trackfind isthis markedone bystand aat smallthe cairn and stump. Alternativelylook out, parkand atlook thefor Springssome gravelsmall carparkblocks headto towardssouth. theWalk lookoutdown usingto thethese, northernand loopfollow of the lookoutrough track. Atdown the lasthill gravelfor patch20m beforeor theso. lookoutYou theshould observantthen climberbe willable noticeto asee smallthe cairnblock thatdown marksto the start of a track running along the top of the ridge, follow this track for several hundred metres when this track turns towards the mountain it branches. Take the branch and follow this to Lilo and Two mat boulders. These boulders are hard to see from the ridge track until you are within about 10 metres.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="448" guide.action="submit" guide.id="378" guide.page="2" guide.type="text">Lilo Boulder</text>
<image id="586" src="twomat.jpg" height="640">
<drawing>
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<image id="395" src="Mt Wellingtonjungle.jpg" height="341">
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<legend>
<climb>398</climb>
<climb>399</climb>
<climb>400</climb>
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<problem id="396" name="Ferny" stars="" number="58." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Layback up the left arete.</problem>
<problem id="397" name="" stars="" number="59." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Start as for Ferny and traverse rightwards around the whole boulder.</problem>
<problem id="398" name="Slotted" stars=" " number="60." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)">Sit start 1m left of the arete at mail slot. Up face.</problem>
<problem id="399" name=" " stars=" " number="61." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)">Up arete</problem>
<problem id="400" name=" " stars=" " number="62." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Easy face 2m right of arete</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="401">Big boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="402">To get to this group of boulders head down the track to Jungle block, but instead of turning right, keep going down the hill for another 50m or so. The first of the reasonable boulders is Big boulder just below Big boulder is Ripper boulder.</text>
<image id="403" src="BigBoulderRightArete Topo.jpg" height="452" width="300">
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<path id="23310" points="178.0,324.0," d="M178.0,324.0" linkedTo="406"/>
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<legend>
<climb>451<<climb>404</climb>
<climb>452<<climb>405</climb>
<climb>587</climb>
<climb>453<<climb>406</climb>
<climb>585</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<image<problem id="404" name="449" widthstars="300" srcnumber="NextBoulderTopo.jpg63." grade="V?" heightextra="452">The southern arete</>problem>
<problem nameid="405" idname="450" extrastars="(SDS)" gradenumber="V364." numbergrade="1.V?" starsextra="*">Start>The atline theof horizontal'weakness' breakin movethe upcentre toof incut and slope on arete. Topout is less positive.the block.</problem>
<problem name="All's Fair in Love and War" id="451406" lengthname="" fastars="CW" extranumber="(SDS)65." grade="V5V3" numberextra="2.(Stand)" stars="***">SDS just left of Adi Kodrat. Hard moves off the ground to arete, up to good rail, then finish up Adi Kodrat>Stand start from the jug, up the arete. Bad landing. The sit start should go, but its a bit awkward.</problem>
<problem<text nameid="Adi Kodrat" id="452" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" number="3." stars="***">Start on good hold under bulge, move to lip hold and slopers, throw up and left to good rail, up via nubbin on right + pocket on left, then higher right pocket + topout.<br/>Stand start goes at about V3/4.</problem>
<problem name="I kneed this" id="587" length="" fa="" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5" number="4" stars="*">Start under cave on good jugs, right slap then to slopers, technical knee bar using nubbin on the right then directly up. The nice sloper hold next to nubbin is off route and probably doesn't help anyway.</problem>
<problem name="" id="453" length="" fa="" extra="(SDS)407"/>
<text class="heading3" id="408">Ripper Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="409">Bottom boulder is a relatively clean boulder that contains a few traverse possibilities and good viewing/relaxation platform, just below Big boulder.</text>
<image id="410" src="BottomBoulderTopo.jpg" height="400" width="200">null
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>411</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="411" name="Little Ripper" stars="*" number="66." grade="V3" numberextra="5(Stand)">Left stars="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="473" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Just right of arete, and left of the tree, lunge from holds at bulge to good jug up rightside of arete. Sit start is a project.</problem>
<problem nameid="Penyerehan412" idname="585" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Stand)Busted Arse Syndrome" stars="" number="67." grade="V5V3" numberextra="6" stars="***">A good alternative start to Adi Kodrat. Start with both hands in corner crack just right of previous problem. Traverse left around arete, finish up Adi Kodrat.<br/>(SDS)">Sit start at arete, do a couple of move up, then pull on to right face.</problem>
<problem nameid="Bersedia413" idname="601" lengthstars="" fanumber="CW68." extragrade="V0" extra="(SDS)" grade="V5+" number="7" stars="***">Start as for left V3(1.). Traverse right around arete, campus to good rail, finish up Adi Kodrat. The best of the Adi Kodrat alternative starts.</problem>
<problem name="Kesediaan" id="603" length="" fa="CW>Sit start and up slab 1m right of arete.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="414">Moss Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="415">Go directly downhill from Ripper Boulder for another 10m to this boulder.</text>
<problem id="416" name="" stars="" number="69." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" grade>Left side of slab</problem>
<problem id="V4417" numbername="8Towards a Moss Free World" stars="**">Start as for Steps and Penyerehan, traverse left to finish up left V3 (1.) number="70." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Sit start on right side of face, follow ramp leftwards.</problem>
<problem name="Dirty crack" id="605418" lengthname="" fastars="*" extranumber="(Stand)71." grade="V1V3" numberextra="9(SDS)">The stars="">Start as for Penyerehan but go straight up easy crackbottom overhanging face of the boulder.</problem>
<problem<text nameclass="Stepsheading3" id="619419" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1" number="9a" stars="">Start as for Penyerehan/Dirty crack, up via 'steps' on face to the right. Excellent w/up.</problem>
<problem name="Anugerah" id="606" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" number="10" stars="**">Start as for the left V3/Bersedia, traverse all the way right to finish up Steps. <br/><br/></problem>
<text class="heading3" id="454" guide.action="submit" guide.id="383" guide.page="2" guide.type="text">Two Mat Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="455">An excellent boulder of easier boulder problems, a good warm up for Lilo.</text>
<image id="456" width="300" src="Southern 2Mat topo.jpg" height="452"/>
<problem name="" id="457" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="1." stars="*">Start in the corner below the small cave. Head towards the cavelet and over on rounds.</problem>
<problem name="" id="458" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="2." stars="*">Start on the pedestal head to the good diagonal then step up to the top round then reasonable top out holds.</problem>
<problem name="" id="459" extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" number="3." stars="">Start at the pedestal head up for the left-hand end of the rounded slot.</problem>
<problem name="" id="460" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="4." stars="*">Start on jug under roof. Move up to lip jugs and left side of cavelet. Head for the obvious break then the top.</problem>
<problem name="Relic" id="461" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="5." stars="*">Start in the corner with the crack, then to lip jugs (add an extra star if you use the hand jam) then up to the right-hand end of the cavelet and up.</problem>
<image id="462" width="300" src="2MatNorthern topo.jpg" height="380"/>
<problem name="" id="463" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="6." stars="">One metre to the right of Relic. Mantle up.</problem>
<problem name="" id="464" extra="(Stand)" grade="V2" number="6a." stars="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="472" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Straight up the middle of the face, using the left jug and a gaston.</problem>
<problem name="" id="465" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="7." stars="">One metre left of the arete. Start in the horizontal break head for the sloper then good edge to the good top out.</problem>
<problem name="Thoughtless" id="466" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="8." stars="**" guide.action="submit" guide.id="394" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Start in the horizontal break. Move to a hold in the prominent bulge then head for the top rounds. Easier if you finish left of the arete, more slopey to the right.</problem>
<problem name="" id="467" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="9." stars="*" guide.action="submit" guide.id="395" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Start in horizontal break and head up on crimps.</problem>
<problem name="Stammer" id="468" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="10." stars="***">Start as for 1. Traverse right around both aretes and finish up Thoughtless.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="607">Neverland<br/><br/>Neverland Escarpment</text>
<text class="text" id="615">This escarpment is the third escarpment north(ish) of Gorby's Corner. Access either from the top (unmarked track to the right just past old well on the Two mat/Lilo track) or head towards Lilo, but where you'd turn off left just after the scramble down, head straight through the bush, trending right. Mega bush bash not for the fainthearted gets you to Cave Boulder, and a bit further right is the Neverland escarpment. <br/><br/>(Found a bolt on top, but no mention of any routes anywhere in any guides. ANY INFO APPRECIATED!)</text>
<problem name="Welcome To Neverland" id="608" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V1" number="1." stars="">Obvious wide crack on escarpment. Start off access ledge, pull up on right wall of crack, bridge/stem to glory. More like a route than a boulder.>Handlebar Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="420">Below the road at the lookout is an extensive outcrop of sandstone. Handlebar boulder is the southern most boulder of this outcrop. Drop down hill at the end of the metal barrier then follow the base of the outcrop.</text>
<image id="421" src="HandlebarTopoSmall.jpg" height="400" width="">
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<path id="43864" points="143.0,305.0," linkedTo="423" d="M143.0,305.0"/>
<path id="35310" points="211.0,286.0," d="M211.0,286.0" linkedTo="424"/>
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<legend>
<climb>418</climb>
<climb>422</climb>
<climb>423</climb>
<climb>424</climb>
<climb>425</climb>
<climb>426</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="422" name="" stars="" number="72." grade="V2/3" extra="(Stand)">Up left hand side of face.</problem>
<problem id="423" name="Slip" stars="" number="73." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Up arete to slope and crimp then to top</problem>
<problem id="424" name="" stars="" number="74." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)">Up the centre of the slab using neither arete.</problem>
<problem id="425" name="" stars="" number="75." grade="VE" extra="(Stand)">Up right arete.</problem>
<problem id="426" name="Tiptoe" stars="*" number="76." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Traverse left to slope on Slip . Finish as for 1.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="427" guide.action="submit" guide.id="371" guide.page="2" guide.type="text">Paratrooper Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="428">This boulder/outcrop is shady and probably moist. Park at the lookout and walk back down the road for 150 metres.</text>
<image id="429" src="ParaTrooperSmallArrows.jpg" height="260" width="400">
<drawing>
<path id="77623" points="147.0,211.0," d="M147.0,211.0" linkedTo="430"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>430</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="430" name="" stars="" number="77." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)">Move up on side pulls and crimps.</problem>
<problem id="431" name="" stars="" number="78." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">Start under bulge pull up to slope and top.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="680">Friday Night Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="681">About ten minutes down the North South track is a large sandstone slab. This boulder is on the right.</text>
<problem id="684" name="Well I Guess You Could Say That it Looks Like A Chameleon" stars="" number="79." grade="V3/4" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start on slopers in cave just left of tree. Right to topout. Shit but fun.</problem>
<problem id="683" name="Dream Time at the G" stars="" number="80." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start on good crimps in the middle of the overhanging face. Up right then move left to jug and top out.</problem>
<problem id="682" name="Friday Night Footy" stars="" number="81." grade="V2" extra="" fa="" length="">Start on good sloper just left of arete. Traverse lip to finish up 2.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="651">Mermaid's Lagoon<br/><br/><432">Reids Track Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="652433">Other>To (west)find sidethis andnice bottomboulder endhead ofdown mainRadfords Neverland escarpment.</text>
<problem name="Marooners' Rock" id="655" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" number="1." stars="">On the left wall of the end of the escarpment, SDS just right of obvious big block. Straight up via block. Balancey.</problem>
<problem name="Marooner's Rock Arete" id="653" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V2" number="2." stars="*">SDS just right of left arete, both hands on obvious protruding 'nose' hold. Big sloping block under foot to left is out. Out to good pocket on arete, decent move up to good hold/s, step up and follow arete to top (easier)Track from the Springs, then down Reids Track for about 100m. Just a bit after you pass a chunk of sandstone on the right is a rough track through the bush on the right which leads to the boulder. GPS MWB480 helps!</text>
<problem id="434" name="" stars="" number="82." grade="VE" extra="(Stand)">Easy face around to the L</problem>
<problem id="435" name="" stars="" number="83." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">Left arete of front face</problem>
<problem id="436" name="" stars="*" number="84." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Juggy line R of arete from awkward sit start</problem>
<problem id="437" name="The Tipping Point" stars="***" number="85." grade="V4/5" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Great line up steep thin face.</problem>
<problem id="438" name="An Awfully Big Adventure" id="656" length="" fa="CWDon't Snap Ya Fucker" stars="**" number="86." grade="V0" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V1" number="3." stars="">Start as for previous problem but head out right and>The R arete starting off the block</problem>
<problem id="439" name="The Midas Touch" stars="**" number="87." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Technical line up middle of wallright face, staying leftstarting SDS just right of thecentre, ringmoves bolts.slightly Pleasantleft.</problem>
<text class="heading3" <problem id="609">Cave Boulder</text>
<problem440" name="Home Under The Ground - Doorway" idstars="610" lengthnumber="88." fagrade="CWV2" extra="(HangSDS)" grade="V1/2" number="1." stars="*">Start matched on good jug in the centre of the "doorway", left foot under on the "roof'" of the cave. Move right, mantle on lip, up. Don't use either "wall" of the cave.</problem>
<problem name="Home Under The Ground - Left Arete" id="611" length="" fa="CW>Far R arete</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="441">March Fly Slab</text>
<text class="text" id="442">This little slab is about 50m in the scrub about 15m up from where you turn off for Reids Boulder, on the opposite side of the track. GPS MWB485.</text>
<problem id="443" name="" stars="*" number="89." grade="V0" extra="(HangStand)" grade>Left arete</problem>
<problem id="V2444" numbername="2." stars="*">Same start as previous problem. Move left to good handle, tricky mantle on lip/arete, up. Don't use either "wall" of the cave.</problem>
<problem name="Redskin" id="612" length="" fa="CW number="90." grade="V?" extra="(Stand)">Up middle of slab</problem>
<problem id="445" name="" stars="" number="91." grade="V2?" extra="(Stand)" grade="VE" number="3." stars="">Up face just right of Home Under The Ground - Doorway. Pretty worthless.<>R side of slab</problem>
<problem<text nameclass="Skull Rockheading2" id="613446" lengthguide.action="submit" faguide.id="CW376" extraguide.page="(SDS)2" gradeguide.type="V1" number="4." stars="*">SDS with left foot down low to left. Up and over on good holds. Stand start is only VE.</problem>
<problem name="Pan Always Wins" id="617" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Stand)" grade="V1/2" number="5." stars="*">(Back of boulder, on the Neverland escarpment side.) Short but sweet. Pull up on small edges, throw to top (slightly loose).</problem>
<problem name="Wendy's Strange Bedfellow" id="648" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0/1" number="6." stars="">Boulder left/in front of previous problem. Crouch/SDS start on left, move right, mantle as elegantly as possible directly up prow. Short but fun.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="620">Awesome Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="621">This boulder is a new arrival - came down in the rains earlier this year (2016). To find it head up the Organ Pipes Track from the Springs top carpark to not far before where it intersects with the Zig Zag Track. Boulder is quite visible, off the track to the right - look for the obvious trail of destruction where it smashed its way across the path from L - R.</text>
<problem name="Easy Awesome" id="622" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="1." stars="">Easy line up the R arête. A good w/up.</problem>
<problem name="Pale Blue Dot" id="623" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0/1" number="2." stars="">Shares same SDS start (first move only) as previous problem, but then moves L onto/up face under the painted pale blue dot.</problem>
<problem name="Seams Pretty Awesome To Me" id="624" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="3." stars="*">Up the obvious seam in the middle of the front face, from sitting - a nice sequence, kind-of technical-ish, over quickly (only 4 or 5 moves) but good value while it lasts!</problem>
<problem name="Easy Awesome Extended" id="625" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="4." stars=""><br/> Up Easy Awesome, traverse lip all the way L, finish pulled onto slab.</problem>
<problem name="Everything Is Awesome" id="626" length="" fa="CW" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="5" stars="*">SDS with both feet under L end of boulder, hands on slopers. Heelhook with left, slap/move along slopes till can get R foot on and/or reach good edge that was the left edge used for Seams…, till you can reach/use the lip proper – finishes topout as for Easy Awesome. Suprisingly slightly tricky first few moves!</problem>
<problem name="Things We Do For Love" id="646" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Highball, SDS)" grade="V3/4" number="6." stars="***">On back of boulder. SDS on left, up to vertical edge then along lip to pinpoint of triangle, mantle. BRILLIANT! Stand start goes at V2/3, SDS V3/4.</problem>
<problem name="Drops Of Sweat Are Tears Of Joy" id="647" length="" fa="CW" extra="(Highball, Stand)" grade="V3/4" number="7," stars="***">On back of boulder. Stand start on right, along lip to pinpoint of triangle, mantle. BRILLIANT!</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="469">Sphinx Rock</text>
<text class="text" id="470">Sphinx rock has some nice sandstone problems. To get there go along the road a couple of hundred metres past the Springs and park on the right at a sign marking the start of the Lenah Valley walking track. Walk along the track for 10-15 minutes until you come to the lookout at the top of Sphinx Rock. Go a little further and take the stairs down to the bottom of the cliff.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="471">Sphinx Rock main cliff</text>
<text class="text" id="472">There are a couple of scrappy problems along the base of the main cliff.</text>
<image id="473" width="" src="sphinx3.jpg" height="235"/>
<text class="text" id="474">These problems are 10-15m along the cliff.</text>
<problem name="" id="475" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2/3" number="1." stars="">Start at a sidepull under a small roof, pull up and left to jugs and stand on lip.</problem>
<problem name="" id="476" extra="(SDS)" grade="V2" number="2." stars="">Start as for no. 1. and traverse leftwards for 6m and then up.</problem>
<image id="477" width="300" src="blackSlab.jpg" height="400">null</image>text">Two Mat Boulders</text>
<text class="text" id="447">Park at the Springs gravel carpark head towards the lookout using the northern loop of the lookout track. Follow the newly made Exhibition Garden track for several hundred metres, when this track turns towards the mountain it branches. Take the branch and follow this to Lilo and Two mat boulders. These boulders are hard to see from the ridge track until you are within about 10 metres.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="448" guide.action="submit" guide.id="378" guide.page="2" guide.type="text">Lilo Boulder</text>
<image id="586" src="twomat.jpg" height="327" legend="true" width="600" legendx="433" legendy="227" legendTitle="Lilo Boulder">
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<legend>
<climb>709</climb>
<climb>451</climb>
<climb>452</climb>
<climb>587</climb>
<climb>453</climb>
<climb>605</climb>
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</image>
<problem id="450" name="" stars="*" number="92." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">Start at the horizontal break move up to incut and slope on arete. Topout is less positive.</problem>
<problem id="606" name="Anugrah" stars="**" number="93." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Start at 1. traverse all the way right to finish up Steps. <br/><br/></problem>
<problem id="452" name="Adi Kodrat" stars="***" number="94." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Start on good hold under bulge, move to lip hold and slopers, throw up and left to good rail, up via nubbin on right + pocket on left, then higher right pocket + topout.<br/>There are several variants: (all done by Chris Welsh)<br/>1. Stand start goes at about V3/4.<br/>2. Bersedia V5+ (SDS) Start at 1. Traverse around arete, campus to good rail. The best of the Adi Kodrat alternative starts.<br/>3. All's Fair in Love and War V5 (SDS) SDS just left of the main start, hard moves off the ground to arete, up to good rail, then finish up Adi Kodrat.<br/>4. Penyerehan V5 (Stand) Start with both hands in Dirty crack. Traverse left around arete, finish up Adi Kodrat.</problem>
<problem id="587" name="I Kneed This" stars="*" number="95." grade="V5" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start under cave on good jugs, right slap then to slopers, technical knee bar using nubbin on the right then directly up.</problem>
<problem id="453" name="" stars="" number="96." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="473" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Just right of arete, and left of the tree, lunge from holds at bulge to good jug up right.</problem>
<problem id="605" name="Dirty crack" stars="" number="97." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">Start in the crack near the tree. Go straight up easy crack.</problem>
<problem id="603" name="Kesediaan" stars="**" number="98." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Start as for Dirty crack, traverse left to finish up 1.</problem>
<problem id="619" name="Steps" stars="" number="99." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Start at Dirty crack, up via 'steps' on face to the right. Excellent w/up.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="454" guide.action="submit" guide.id="383" guide.page="2" guide.type="text">Two Mat Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="455">An excellent boulder of easier boulder problems, a good warm up for Lilo.</text>
<image id="685" src="two mat SW small.jpg" height="710" legend="true" width="400" legendx="227" legendy="639">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>457</climb>
<climb>458</climb>
<climb>459</climb>
<climb>468</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="457" name="" stars="*" number="100." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Start in the corner below the small cave. Head towards the cavelet and over on rounds.</problem>
<problem id="458" name="" stars="*" number="101." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Start on the pedestal head to the good diagonal then step up to the top round then reasonable top out holds.</problem>
<problem id="459" name="" stars="" number="102." grade="V?" extra="(SDS)">Start at the pedestal head up for the left-hand end of the rounded slot.</problem>
<image id="686" src="Two Mat E small.jpg" height="614" legend="true" width="600">
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<legend>
<climb>460</climb>
<climb>461</climb>
<climb>463</climb>
<climb>464</climb>
<climb>465</climb>
<climb>468</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="460" name="" stars="*" number="103." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)">Start on jug under roof. Move up to lip jugs and left side of cavelet. Head for the obvious break then the top.</problem>
<problem id="461" name="Relic" stars="*" number="104." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Start in the corner with the crack, then to lip jugs (add an extra star if you use the hand jam) then up to the right-hand end of the cavelet and up.</problem>
<problem id="463" name="" stars="" number="105." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)">One metre to the right of Relic. Mantle up.</problem>
<problem id="464" name="" stars="" number="106." grade="V2" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="472" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Straight up the middle of the face, using the left jug and a gaston.</problem>
<problem id="465" name="" stars="" number="107." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">One metre left of the arete. Start in the horizontal break head for the sloper then good edge to the good top out.</problem>
<image id="687" src="Two Mat N small.jpg" height="881" legend="true" width="400" legendx="20" legendy="725">
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<legend>
<climb>466</climb>
<climb>467</climb>
<climb>468</climb>
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</image>
<problem id="466" name="Thoughtless" stars="*" number="108." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="394" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Start in the horizontal break. Move to a hold in the prominent bulge then head for the top rounds. Add a grade if you exit to the right.</problem>
<problem id="467" name="" stars="*" number="109." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="395" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Start in horizontal break and head up on crimps.</problem>
<problem id="468" name="Stammer" stars="**" number="110." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start as for 1. Traverse right around both aretes and finish up Thoughtless. If you use the right hand finish add a grade.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="607">Area 51</text>
<text class="text" id="615">This escarpment is the third escarpment north(ish) of Gorby's Corner. Access either from the top (unmarked track to the right just past old well on the Two mat/Lilo track) or head towards Lilo, but where you'd turn off left just after the scramble down, head straight through the bush, trending right. Mega bush bash not for the fainthearted gets you to Cave Boulder, and a bit further right is the Neverland escarpment. <br/><br/>(Found a bolt on top, but no mention of any routes anywhere in any guides. ANY INFO APPRECIATED!)</text>
<problem id="608" name="Welcome To Neverland" stars="" number="111." grade="V1" extra="(Highball, Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Obvious wide crack on escarpment. Start off access ledge, pull up on right wall of crack, bridge/stem to glory. More like a route than a boulder.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="651">Mermaid's Lagoon<br/><br/></text>
<text class="text" id="652">Other (west) side and bottom end of main Neverland escarpment.</text>
<problem id="655" name="Marooners' Rock" stars="" number="112." grade="V2/3" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">On the left wall of the end of the escarpment, SDS just right of obvious big block. Straight up via block. Balancey.</problem>
<problem id="653" name="Marooner's Rock Arete" stars="*" number="113." grade="V2" extra="(Highball, SDS)" fa="CW" length="">SDS just right of left arete, both hands on obvious protruding 'nose' hold. Big sloping block under foot to left is out. Out to good pocket on arete, decent move up to good hold/s, step up and follow arete to top (easier).</problem>
<problem id="656" name="An Awfully Big Adventure" stars="" number="114." grade="V1" extra="(Highball, SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Start as for previous problem but head out right and up middle of wall, staying left of the ring bolts. Pleasant.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="609">Cave Boulder</text>
<problem id="610" name="Home Under The Ground - Doorway" stars="*" number="115." grade="V1/2" extra="(Hang)" fa="CW" length="">Start matched on good jug in the centre of the "doorway", left foot under on the "roof'" of the cave. Move right, mantle on lip, up. Don't use either "wall" of the cave.</problem>
<problem id="611" name="Home Under The Ground - Left Arete" stars="*" number="116." grade="V2" extra="(Hang)" fa="CW" length="">Same start as previous problem. Move left to good handle, tricky mantle on lip/arete, up. Don't use either "wall" of the cave.</problem>
<problem id="612" name="Redskin" stars="" number="117." grade="VE" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">Up face just right of Home Under The Ground - Doorway. Pretty worthless.</problem>
<problem id="613" name="Skull Rock" stars="*" number="118." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">SDS with left foot down low to left. Up and over on good holds. Stand start is only VE.</problem>
<problem id="617" name="Pan Always Wins" stars="*" number="119." grade="V1/2" extra="(Stand)" fa="CW" length="">(Back of boulder, on the Neverland escarpment side.) Short but sweet. Pull up on small edges, throw to top (slightly loose).</problem>
<problem id="648" name="Wendy's Strange Bedfellow" stars="" number="120." grade="V0/1" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Boulder left/in front of previous problem. Crouch/SDS start on left, move right, mantle as elegantly as possible directly up prow. Short but fun.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="672">Organ Pipes Track</text>
<text class="heading3" id="620">Awesome Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="621">This boulder is a new arrival - came down in the rains earlier this year (2016). To find it head up the Organ Pipes Track from the Springs top carpark to not far before where it intersects with the Zig Zag Track. Boulder is quite visible, off the track to the right - look for the obvious trail of destruction where it smashed its way across the path from L - R.</text>
<problem id="622" name="Easy Awesome" stars="" number="121." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Easy line up the R arête. A good w/up.</problem>
<problem id="623" name="Pale Blue Dot" stars="" number="122." grade="V0/1" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Shares same SDS start (first move only) as previous problem, but then moves L onto/up face under the painted pale blue dot.</problem>
<problem id="624" name="Seams Pretty Awesome To Me" stars="*" number="123." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">Up the obvious seam in the middle of the front face, from sitting - a nice sequence, kind-of technical-ish, over quickly (only 4 or 5 moves) but good value while it lasts!</problem>
<problem id="625" name="Easy Awesome Extended" stars="" number="124." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length=""><br/> Up Easy Awesome, traverse lip all the way L, finish pulled onto slab.</problem>
<problem id="626" name="Everything Is Awesome" stars="*" number="125." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="CW" length="">SDS with both feet under L end of boulder, hands on slopers. Heelhook with left, slap/move along slopes till can get R foot on and/or reach good edge that was the left edge used for Seams…, till you can reach/use the lip proper – finishes topout as for Easy Awesome. Suprisingly slightly tricky first few moves!</problem>
<problem id="646" name="Things We Do For Love" stars="***" number="126." grade="V3/4" extra="(Highball, SDS)" fa="CW" length="">On back of boulder. SDS on left, up to vertical edge then along lip to pinpoint of triangle, mantle. BRILLIANT! Stand start goes at V2/3, SDS V3/4.</problem>
<problem id="647" name="Drops Of Sweat Are Tears Of Joy" stars="***" number="127." grade="V3/4" extra="(Highball, Stand)" fa="CW" length="">On back of boulder. Stand start on right, along lip to pinpoint of triangle, mantle. BRILLIANT!</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="710">OP Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="711">This is a nice buttress of featured dolerite about 5mins past the turnoff to the zigzag track. There is a large boulder on the track to the left. The OP boulder is visible 20m further back. Sunshower is the righthand arete.</text>
<problem id="715" name="Sunshower Arete" stars="***" number="128." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" fa="Joe Schwarz, 2019" length="">Beautiful moves up righthand arete</problem>
<problem id="716" name="The Pumpernickel Prince" stars="**" number="129." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)" fa="Joe Schwarz, 2019" length="">Start on sloper in face to the left of Sunshower. Up on crimps and sidepulls. Lovely problem.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="469">Sphinx Rock</text>
<text class="text" id="470">Sphinx rock has some nice sandstone problems. <br/>Access is via the Lenah Valley Track, near the Springs. The quickest way is to park at the junction of the track and the road about 500m up the hill from the Springs on the R. As of 2021 there is only one quite narrow park on the road, and the best parking is to turn left at the Springs and park in the top car park, then walk up the road a couple of hundred metres to the track. If the top car park is full then park at the Springs overflow parking area and follow the track which leaves from just behind the toilet block to join up with the Lenah Valley track. After about 10-15 mins flat walk on the Lenah Valley track you come to the Sphinx Rock Lookout on the R, which is the top of the cliff. Head down to the base of the crag by turning R down the Sawmill Track a few metres further on from the lookout.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="471">Sphinx Rock main cliff</text>
<text class="text" id="472">There are a couple of scrappy problems along the base of the main cliff.</text>
<image id="473" src="sphinx3.jpg" height="235" width="">
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<legend>
<climb>475</climb>
<climb>476</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<text class="text" id="474">These problems are 10-15m along the cliff.</text>
<problem id="475" name="" stars="" number="130." grade="V2/3" extra="(SDS)">Start at a sidepull under a small roof, pull up and left to jugs and stand on lip.</problem>
<problem id="476" name="" stars="" number="131." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" length="" fa="">Start as for previous then traverse leftwards for 6m and then up.</problem>
<image id="477" src="blackSlab.jpg" height="400" width="300">null
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<legend>
<climb>479</climb>
<climb>480</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<text class="text" id="478">Further around the cliff, after you turn the corner, is a black slab with a couple of carrot bolts in it.</text>
<problem id="479" name="" stars="" number="132." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)">Arete a couple of metres left of tree</problem>
<problem id="480" name="" stars="" number="133." grade="V?" extra="(SDS)">Project - Hard face right of arete</problem>
<problem id="481" name="" stars="" number="134." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)">Black slab with carrot bolts, just right of tree</problem>
<text id="734" class="text">The next problem is in the cave underneath Short Sharp And Shit Hot.</text>
<problem id="735" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="135." name="Cat Person " length="" grade="V7" fa="">Start on flat jug, head right past juggy pocket to some hard moves on crimps then campus up to rail to finish.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="482">Tiger Snake Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="483">This boulder is in the bush about 20-30m diagonally off the climb Phoenix. MGA94 (GDA94): 55G 0520235mE 5249664mN</text>
<problem id="484" name="" stars="" number="136." grade="V1" extra="(SDS)">Mantle over bulge to the left.</problem>
<problem id="485" name="" stars="" number="137." grade="V?" extra="(SDS)">Project - Start as for Tiger Snake, do a long hard move left</problem>
<problem id="486" name="Tiger Snake" stars="**" number="138." grade="V4" extra="(Stand)">Sitstart below curving incut sidepull, pull up right.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="487">Sphinx's Nose</text>
<text class="text" id="488">From the black slab keep walking around past the Short, Sharp, Shithot area where there are a couple of scungy caves (where a few shitty problems have been done). Keep walking to the next buttress, which has a prominent arete. Follow a rough track down the hill to the bottom of a large boulder.</text>
<image id="688" src="South SN1_small.jpg" height="694" legend="true" width="800">
<drawing>
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<legend>
<climb>689</climb>
<climb>690</climb>
<climb>691</climb>
<climb>692</climb>
<climb>693</climb>
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</image>
<problem id="689" name="Trajectory" stars="*" number="139." grade="V0" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start on jugs to the left of the cave. Nice jug hauling that needs a little commitment at the top.</problem>
<problem id="690" name="Bat Cave" stars="" number="140." grade="V1" extra="" fa="Chris Lang 2014" length="">Follow through the cave to the other side. It's possible to climb most of the way to the exit, you'll need to touch down to finish through the squeeze exit.<br/></problem>
<problem id="691" name="Tip Top" stars="*" number="141." grade="V1" extra="(Stand)" fa="" length="">Start on slopey sidepull. Nice.</problem>
<problem id="692" name="Shallow Grave" stars="***" number="142." grade="V5" extra="(Hang)" fa="Dave Humphries May 2019" length="">Start on the low rail with foot right, then slope it out. Trend left at the top. <br/>Checking and cleaning the leaves off the top is worthwhile.</problem>
<problem id="693" name="Unremembered" stars="*" number="143." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start on the rail under the arete. Great climbing from bottom to top rockover. Stand is V2.</problem>
<image id="703" src="SN2_small.jpg" height="885" legend="true" width="500">
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<legend>
<climb>693</climb>
<climb>695</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="694" name="Al's Traverse" stars="" number="144." grade="V8?" extra="(SDS)" fa="Al Williams mid 2000's" length="">Can't remember too many details of this. It started at Unremembered or Crimpfest and continued to the top out right.</problem>
<problem id="695" name="Crimpfest" stars="*" number="145." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start on pockets, pop to crimp and up. Main issue these days is not dabbing the tree.</problem>
<image id="704" src="SN top probs2_small.jpg" height="475" legend="true" width="800">
<drawing>
<path id="6902" points="29.0,411.0, 285.0,403.0, 531.0,352.0," d="M29.0,411.0C131.4,407.8 185.2,414.7 285.0,403.0C384.8,391.3 432.6,372.4 531.0,352.0" linkedTo="696" arrow="true"/>
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<path id="67491" points="214.0,414.0, 203.0,289.0, 222.0,197.0," d="M214.0,414.0C209.6,364.0 201.6,326.6 203.0,289.0C204.4,251.4 214.4,233.8 222.0,197.0" linkedTo="700"/>
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<path id="94882" points="511.0,365.0, 561.0,297.0, 591.0,291.0, 611.0,274.0," d="M511.0,365.0C531.0,337.8 552.0,305.3 561.0,297.0C570.0,288.7 581.5,295.4 591.0,291.0C600.5,286.6 603.0,280.8 611.0,274.0" linkedTo="702" arrow="true"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb/>
<climb>694</climb>
<climb>696</climb>
<climb>699</climb>
<climb>700</climb>
<climb>701</climb>
<climb>702</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="696" name="Hushed By An Angel" stars="**" number="146." grade="V6" extra="(SDS)" fa="M Hitchcock 2019" length="">Start as for Crimpfest and hang low to finish up Ski Jump.</problem>
<text class="text" id="698">The following three problems were originally topped out but it needs cleaning again.</text>
<problem id="699" name="The Duchess" stars="*" number="147." grade="V3/4" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start on pockets to the right of the tree finish in the big pocket.</problem>
<problem id="700" name="RedKnapp" stars="*" number="148." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="" length="">Start in the leftmost of three pockets. Finish as for The Duchess. Starting on the rightmost pocket is a grade easier and nicer.</problem>
<problem id="701" name="Roman" stars="**" number="149." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" fa="Simon Young 2014" length="">Start on jugs at the back and head through bulge to finish as for The Duchess.</problem>
<problem id="702" name="Ski Jump" stars="" number="150." grade="V2" extra="(SDS)" fa="T. Krauss 2014" length="">Start on pockety jug and head up and around.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="490">Nerm's Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="478">Further around the cliff, after you turn the corner, is a black slab491">This freestanding boulder is one of the best on the mountain. From the main cliff keep going down the track for another 10-15 metres. Walk along the third stump on the left (marked with a couple of carrot bolts in it.</text>
<problem name="" id="479" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="1." stars="">Arete a couple of metres left of tree</problem>
<problem name="" id="480" extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" number="2." stars="">Project - Hard face right of arete</problem>
<problem name="" id="481" extra="(SDS)" grade="V0" number="3." stars="">Black slab with carrot bolts, just right of tree</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="482">Tiger Snake Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="483">This boulder is in the bush about 20-30m diagonally off the climb Phoenix. MGA94 (GDA94): 55G 0520235mE 5249664mN</text>
<problem name="" id="484" extra="(SDS)" grade="V1" number="1." stars="">Mantle over bulge to the left.</problem>
<problem name="" id="485" extra="(SDS)" grade="V?" number="2." stars="">Project - Start as for Tiger Snake, do a long hard move left</problem>
<problem name="Tiger Snake" id="486" extra="(Stand)" grade="V4" number="3." stars="**">Sitstart below curving incut sidepull, pull up right.</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="487">Sphinx's Nose</text>
<text class="text" id="488">From the black slab keep walking around past the Short, Sharp, Shithot area where there are a couple of scungy caves (where a few shitty problems have been done). Keep walking to the next buttress, which has a prominent arete. Follow a rough track down the hill to the bottom of a large boulder.</text>
<text class="text" id="489">This boulder is in the process of development.</text>
<text class="heading3" id="490">Nerm's Boulder</text>
<text class="text" id="491">This freestanding boulder is one of the best on the mountain. From the main cliff keep going down the track for another 10-15 metres. Walk along the third stump on the left (marked with a 'N') into the jungle, and you should see the boulder up to the left, at the end of the fallen tree.</text>
<image id="492" width="" src="nermsboulder.jpg" height="667"/>
<problem name="Blood Stains" id="493" extra="(SDS)" grade="V3" number="1." stars="*">Pull up from the small cave on the left side of the boulder</problem>
<problem name="" id="494" extra="(SDS)" grade="V4" number="1a." stars="*'N') into the jungle, and you should see the boulder up to the left, at the end of the fallen tree.</text>
<image id="492" src="nermsboulder.jpg" height="667" width="" legend="true">
<drawing>
<path id="98861" points="91.0,535.0," d="M91.0,535.0" linkedTo="493"/>
<path id="11120" points="108.0,444.0," d="M108.0,444.0" linkedTo="496"/>
<path id="82042" points="88.0,274.0," d="M88.0,274.0" linkedTo="497"/>
<path id="5528" points="254.0,484.0," linkedTo="498" d="M254.0,484.0"/>
<path id="3913" points="217.0,181.0," linkedTo="499" d="M217.0,181.0"/>
<path id="39524" points="359.0,278.0," linkedTo="500" d="M359.0,278.0"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>493</climb>
<climb>496</climb>
<climb>497</climb>
<climb>498</climb>
<climb>499</climb>
<climb>500</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem id="493" name="Blood Stains" stars="*" number="151." grade="V3" extra="(SDS)" fa="Jon Nermut" length="">Pull up from the small cave on the left side of the boulder</problem>
<problem id="494" name="" stars="*" number="152." grade="V4" extra="(SDS)" guide.action="submit" guide.id="474" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Start as for Blood Stains, and traverse rightwards (fairly high) across the whole boulder to finish up the arete.</problem>
<problem id="737" stars="**" extra="(SDS)" number="153." name="Blood Letting" length="" grade="V7" fa="J. Schwarz">Do the first move of Blood Stains then head right into the V0 via some powerful moves.</problem>
<problem id="738" stars="**" extra="(SDS)" number="154." name="The Vampire Song" length="" grade="V9" fa="J. Schwarz">A fun linkup. Start as for Blood Letting then reverse The Turd Burglar and finish up Yoshimi.</problem>
<problem id="495" name="" stars="" number="155." grade="V0" extra="(Stand)" guide.action="submit" guide.id="474475" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Start>Up ason for Blood Stains, and traverse rightwards (fairly high) across the whole boulder to finish up the aretebig jugs.</problem>
<problem id="496" name="The Turd Burglar" idstars="495*" extranumber="(Stand)156." grade="V5" extra="V0(SDS)" numberfa="2a.Jon Nermut" starslength="" guide.action="submit" guide.id="475" guide.page="2" guide.type="problem">Up on big jugs.</problem>
<problem >Start as for Yoshimi and move left to sidepulls then up to jugs</problem>
<problem id="736" stars="" extra="(SDS)" number="157." name="The Turd Burglar" id="496Direct" extralength="(SDS)" grade="V5V6" numberfa="2J." stars="*Schwarz">Start as for on crimps just left of Yoshimi, andcrank moveup leftright to sidepullsgood edge then continue as upfor toTurd jugs<Burglar.</problem>
<problem id="497" name="Yoshimi..." idstars="497***" extranumber="(SDS)158." grade="V6" numberextra="(SDS)" fa="3.John Anderson" starslength="***">Start off good jug just above left hand end of low rail. Straight up to pocket and sidepulls and over bulge</problem>
<problem id="498" name="Baba" idstars="498**" extranumber="(SDS)159." grade="V3" numberextra="(SDS)" fa="4.Jon Nermut" starslength="**">Sit start at right hand end of low rail, straight up. Watch the hollow sounding jugs at the top</problem>
<problem id="499" name="Deda" idstars="499**" extranumber="(SDS)160." grade="V5" numberextra="(SDS)" fa="Jon 5.Nermut" starslength="***">Start as for Yoshimi, but go up right to double shallow pockets, then move right across the line of pockets to the arete and finish up no 6Ganamatronix.</problem>
<problem id="500" name="Ganamatronix" idstars="500***" extranumber="(SDS)161." grade="V6" number="6." stars="***extra="(SDS)" fa=" Morgen Hosking" length="">Start at sidepull 2m left of the arete. Move right to the arete and climb up the steep side of the arete, moving right at the top. Morgen Hosking 17/11/05.</problem>
<problem nameid="501" idname="501" extrastars="(Stand)" gradenumber="V0162." numbergrade="7.V0" starsextra="(Stand)">Slab just right of arete</problem>
<problem nameid="502" idname="502" extrastars="(Stand)" gradenumber="V0163." numbergrade="8.V0" starsextra="(Stand)">Slab 3m right of arete</problem>
<text class="heading3" id="503">Sphinx's Arsehole</text>
<text class="text" id="504">From Sphinx Rock keep going down the Sawmill Track until you see some rock to the right. Walk along the base of the rock to find a bit of a grotty cave.</text>
<image id="505" src="sphinx2.jpg" height="359" width="" src="sphinx2.jpg" height="359"/>="">
<drawing>
<path id="75438" points="108.0,44.0," d="M108.0,44.0" linkedTo="506"/>
<path id="60926" points="71.0,143.0," d="M71.0,143.0" linkedTo="507"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>506</climb>
<climb>507</climb>
<climb>508</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<problem nameid="506" idname="506" extrastars="(Stand)" gradenumber="V2164." numbergrade="V2" starsextra="(Stand)">Start on left side of cave, move R along lip to jugs, then pull up to jug amidst moss.</problem>
<problem id="507" name="" idstars="507" extranumber="(Stand)165." grade="V?" numberextra="" stars="(Stand)">As for previous problem, but keep traversing to join Cakehole.</problem>
<problem id="508" name="" idstars="508" extranumber="(SDS)166." grade="V5?" numberextra="" stars=""(SDS)">Start in under left side of cave on smallish flakes. Pull out to lip and jugs, then up to jug in moss.</problem>
<problem nameid="509" idname="509" extrastars="(SDS)" gradenumber="V4167." numbergrade="1.V4" starsextra="(SDS)">Climb out through roof, then straight up</problem>
<problem id="510" name="The Snakepit" idstars="510" extranumber="(SDS)168." grade="V6" numberextra="(SDS)" length="2." starsfa="">Start as for no. 1160, then traverse leftwards along lip to finish at the left hand end of the cave</problem>
<problem id="511" name="Cakehole" idstars="511*" extranumber="(SDS)169." grade="V1" numberextra="" stars="*"(SDS)">Start 1m right from Snakepit, at a pocket. Follow jugs and pockets out to lip, then rightwards until the angle eases.</problem>
<problem nameid="512" idname="512" extrastars="(SDS)" gradenumber="V0170." numbergrade="V0" starsextra="(SDS)">Steep jugs on right side of cave, finish off to the right.</problem>
<text class="text" id="513">Between the cave and the track is a bit of a bulgey wall. These problems are on it.</text>
<problem nameid="514" idname="514" extrastars="(SDS)" gradenumber="VE171." numbergrade="VE" starsextra="(SDS)">Left side of bulge, jugs to pocket to jugs then up right. Downclimb to left.</problem>
<problem nameid="515" idname="515" extrastars="(SDS)" gradenumber="V2172." numbergrade="V2" starsextra="(SDS)">1m right of previous problem. Underclings up to high pocket then jugs jugs.</problem>
<problem id="717" name="Sphinx's sphincter" stars="*" number="173." grade="V6" extra="" fa="J. Schwarz 2019" length="">Start on rail. Straight up on small slopey crimps.</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="516">Crocodile Rock</text>
<text class="text" id="517">Crocodile Rock has some nice problems on good rock and is warmer and dryer than Sphinx. However its a bit too far from the road to get many visitors. Park at the Chalet, and walk down Hunters Track. After 5 minutes take the right hand fork, and walk for another 20 minutes until you get to the cliff, which is straight above the track.</text>
<problem id="518" name="Oligoplio" idstars="518*" extranumber="(SDS)174." grade="V6" extra="V?(SDS)" numberfa="1J.Schwarz 2019" starslength="*">Project - Traverse>Traverse the bottom of main cliff L to R</problem>
<text class="text" id="519">The following 2 problems are on the square cut face 20m up and left from the free standing boulder.</text>
<problem nameid="520" idname="520" extrastars="(SDS)" gradenumber="V2175." numbergrade="2.V2" starsextra="(SDS)">Left side of face</problem>
<problem nameid="521" idname="521" extrastars="(SDS)" gradenumber="V0176." numbergrade="3.V0" starsextra="(SDS)">Right side of face.</problem>
<text class="text" id="522">The following problems are on the free standing boulder at the right end of the crag. There are a couple of obvious lines up the front of the boulder that are yet to be cleaned and climbed.</text>
<problem id="523" name="" idstars="523*" extranumber="(SDS)177." grade="V6?" numberextra="" stars="*(SDS)">Project - the right arete of the boulder</problem>
<problem nameid="524" idname="524" extrastars="(SDS)" gradenumber="V3178." numbergrade="V3" starsextra="(SDS)">Powerful move from sitstart, 1m right of arete</problem>
<text class="heading2" id="7"/>
</guide>
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