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Guide
<guide guidestarsversion="*2" pagesize="500" versionguidestars="2*">
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  <header accessid="1"In the mid nineties access to the cliff was thought to be closed off, but the situation has now improved. From Richmond drive through Campania towards Colebrook. About 4.2km from the Campania Pub and just before the turnoff to Lowdina Rd, check into &quot;Westfield&quot; on the LHS and see the Bevens (62 604286 or 0418 604286) who are the landowners. They are happy for climbers to use their land as long as you sign their indemnity form. You can download a copy of the form, (a pdf version is loaded  at the bottom of this Guide), and drop it in at Westfield.  Turn back onto the main road and then left again into Lowdina Road. Follow the gravel road, parking at the railway line. Cross the train tracks and head up the hill. If you can spot the white-streaked rock then head for this - it&apos;s Bismark Buttress and a good landmark from which to get your bearings. " acknowledgement="by Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets " guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="Between the late eighties and early nineties activity at Lowdina was intense. Most of the harder routes were done then many of them by Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper and Al Adams. Martin Stone wrote the original guide in the mid-eighties but it soon became outdated and Evan published an update which forms the basis of this guide. We&apos;ve also kept Evan&apos;s annotation of routes with a symbol (§) to indicate the need for small wires. Don&apos;t bother climbing at this cliff if you can&apos;t beg, borrow or at least steal some RP&apos;s!" intro="An attractive crag for a winter visitation. Lowdina&apos;s appeal lies in its sheltered and comparatively warm aspect and often it is dry here when elsewhere it is wet. With 150 routes of varied grades there is a swag of climbing to be done. Although this cliff makes little impression on the ardent sport enthusiast when viewed from the carpark at the bottom of the hill, there exists here a range of interesting, demanding and worthwhile problems each with their own unique flavour." name="Lowdina" rock="Dolerite buttresses from 80º to vertical" sun="Morning sun" walk="25 min uphill" id="1walk="25 min uphill" sun="Morning sun" rock="Dolerite buttresses from 80º to vertical" name="Lowdina" intro="An attractive crag for a winter visitation. Lowdina&apos;s appeal lies in its sheltered and comparatively warm aspect and often it is dry here when elsewhere it is wet. With 150 routes of varied grades there is a swag of climbing to be done. Although this cliff makes little impression on the ardent sport enthusiast when viewed from the carpark at the bottom of the hill, there exists here a range of interesting, demanding and worthwhile problems each with their own unique flavour." history="Between the late eighties and early nineties activity at Lowdina was intense. Most of the harder routes were done then many of them by Evan Peacock, Garn Cooper and Al Adams. Martin Stone wrote the original guide in the mid-eighties but it soon became outdated and Evan published an update which forms the basis of this guide. We&apos;ve also kept Evan&apos;s annotation of routes with a symbol (§) to indicate the need for small wires. Don&apos;t bother climbing at this cliff if you can&apos;t beg, borrow or at least steal some RP&apos;s!" guide.type="header" guide.page="0" guide.id="0" guide.action="submit" acknowledgement="by Evan Peacock, originally published in Craglets " access="In the mid nineties access to the cliff was thought to be closed off, but the situation has now improved. From Richmond drive through Campania towards Colebrook. About 4.2km from the Campania Pub and just before the turnoff to Lowdina Rd, check into &quot;Westfield&quot; on the LHS and see the Bevens (62 604286 or 0418 604286) who are the landowners. They are happy for climbers to use their land as long as you sign their indemnity form. You can download a copy of the form, (a pdf version is loaded  at the bottom of this Guide), and drop it in at Westfield.  Turn back onto the main road and then left again into Lowdina Road. Follow the gravel road, parking at the railway line. Cross the train tracks and head up the hill. If you can spot the white-streaked rock then head for this - it&apos;s Bismark Buttress and a good landmark from which to get your bearings. "/>
  <gps id="193">
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  </gps>
  <image noPrintid="false2" srcheight="lowdina sketch map.png1485" width="" idsrc="2lowdina sketch map.png" heightnoPrint="1485false"/>
  <text idclass="157heading3" classid="heading3157">Scharnhorst Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Scharnhorst Buttress is at the far LH end of the crag immediately before the the hillside turns to the south and into a gully. Beyond the gully the cliff-line peters out.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="15m" name="Scharnhorst" number="" stars="" id="4  <climb id="4" name="Scharnhorst" fa="Karl Prinz, Kevin Kiernan, Mary McWhirther, Feb 1975." stars="" number="" length="15m" grade="12" extra="">About 80m L of a narrow talus slope is the last major buttress. Scharnhorst climbs a groove, that continues up a contoured crack through a small roof. Roughly finishes up the nose of the buttress. Avoid the loose slabs on the L near the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="16" length="15m"5" name="Blackheads and Beauty Spots" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988." stars="" number="" length="15m" grade="16" extra="§">Start in the alcove 6m R of Scharnhorst, off the top of the pillar. Step across and up to the ledge below the flake. Go up the RH crack, then move L and up past the RH edge of the flake, finishing up the crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="16" length="12m6" name="Drugs on Sunday" numberfa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="" idnumber="6" falength="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.12m" grade="16" extra="§">Start 8m R of Scharnhorst on the ledge below the brushed slab. Step up for the slope above, continue up to the next sloping ledge, then up the flake to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="247" length="18m" name="Better Get A Bucket" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1991." stars="**" idnumber="7" falength="18m"Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1991. grade="24" extra="§">Bold face climbing with a technical finish. Start immediately L of The Spastic Acrobat on the LH side of the arête. Climb to the horizontal at 3m (and place gear!) then launch for the bolt (hoping your belayer jumps downhill if you fall off clipping). Finish through the small roof on the L.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="20" length="15m"8" name="The Spastic Acrobat" numberfa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988." stars="***" idnumber="8" falength="15m"Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Aug 1988. grade="20" extra="§">About 20m R of Scharnhorst is an impressive face split by a horizontal break near the top. Start just R of the obvious crack, and go straight up the face to a small ledge. Continue up on small holds and layaways to the horizontal, then crank through to the finger crack and the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="10" length="15m" name="Seagull" number="" stars="" id="99" name="Seagull" fa="Mary McWhirther, Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Feb 1975." stars="" number="" length="15m" grade="10" extra="">An isolated pinnacle lies between Vulpecula and Scharnhorst buttresses. Climb the crack that forms a sweeping s-curve up the RH side of the buttress.</climb>
  <text idclass="158heading3" classid="heading3158">Vulpecula Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="10" gradename="11Vulpecula" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="90" guide.pageid="09" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="30mKevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Mary McWhirther,Feb 1975." namestars="Vulpecula" number="" starslength="30m" idgrade="1011" faextra="Kevin Kiernan, Karl Prinz, Mary McWhirther,Feb 1975.">About 20m L the narrow talus slope and protruding down the hill is the Vulpecula buttress. From the base of the buttress climb the nose past loose flakes to a broad ledge. Scramble on up the blocky ledges then finish up the obvious slab on the LH side.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="22" length="22m11" name="Punks and Lepers" numberfa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Nov 1988." stars="**" idnumber="11" falength="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Nov 1988.22m" grade="22" extra="§">About 10m R and uphill of Vulpecula is a face with a horizontal break at 4m. Climb to the break, then up the face to a flared crack (RP's) then up the crack to the top.</climb>
  <text idclass="159heading3" classid="heading3159">Anzac Day Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="12" gradename="16Torque Arm" lengthfa="15mDave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." namestars="Torque Arm" number="" starslength="15m" idgrade="1216" faextra="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.">Found on the Anzac Day buttress this route climbs the wall which forms the LHS of the Ape chimney. Gain the corner/groove just off the ground and climb it, passing R of the small roof. Cross left into the groove and climb this until able to move R into the crack and the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="13" gradename="10Ape" lengthfa="20mChris Viney, Brendan Moore, Apr 1972." namestars="Ape" number="" starslength="20m" idgrade="1310" faextra="Chris Viney, Brendan Moore, Apr 1972.">About 7m left of Anzac Day is a small buttress topped by a prominent 4m flake. Climb the narrow flaring chimney immediately to its L.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="Anzac Day" number="" stars="**" id="14 id="14" name="Anzac Day" fa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="**" number="" length="20m" grade="18" extra="">Not a route for old diggers. Anzac Day is 25m R of the talus slope on a line of buttresses that extend downhill (50m up left of Finn). Start at the base of the LHS of the lowest buttress, climb the slabby face for 5m, and then up the 1m roof via a short crack. Move out R around the roof and up the wall above to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="15" gradename="15Lejand" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="140" guide.pageid="014" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="12mJeremy Rackham, Anna Hasan, Apr 1992." namestars="Lejand" number="" starslength="12m" idgrade="15" faextra="Jeremy Rackham, Anna Hasan, Apr 1992.">Start on the LH arête below the roof 2m right of Anzac Day. Climb the arête and crack above, trending to a large ledge. Move L to regain the arête, then up the RH side of the wall to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="18" length="15m16" name="Mick Goes to Moonah" numberfa="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." stars="***" idnumber="16" falength="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.15m" grade="18" extra="§">Thought provoking and delicate. Just L of the amphitheatre between Finn and Anzac Day buttresses is a groove up the nose of a buttress. Follow it to the horizontal break, then continue more easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="17" gradename="17Chook Fever" lengthfa="15mDave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984." namestars="Chook Fever**" number="" starslength="**15m" idgrade="17" faextra="Dave Humphries, John Buttery, Jul 1984.">Fist jammers apply within! 2m R of Mick Goes to Moonah is a clean crackline up yellowish rock on the RH side of the buttress. Jam through the bulge and up for 3m, move out R and up the fist crack for 3m, then finish up the corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="18" gradename="16Miss Right Body" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="170" guide.pageid="017" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="20mAl Adams, Garn Cooper, Nic Deka, May 1986." namestars="Miss Right Body*" number="" starslength="*20m" idgrade="1816" faextra="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Nic Deka, May 1986.">Worth a sneak look. Start about 3m R of Chook Fever and climb the face, finishing up the first crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§19" gradename="18Boys in Bikinis" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="180" guide.pageid="018" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="15mAl Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988." namestars="Boys in Bikinis*" number="" starslength="*15m" idgrade="1918" faextra="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988.§">Probably not a good look! Start 8m right of Chook Fever beneath a roof at 2m. Pull through the roof on the LHS, then up layaways and back R to a fixed pin above the roof. Finish up the wee bulges above.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="22" length="15m20" name="What Bunny Likes Best" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, May 1992." stars="*" idnumber="20" falength="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, May 1992.15m" grade="22" extra="§">The face between Boys in Bikinis and Jot Jot Splat, past a BR and several wires. Contrived in staying out of the aforementioned.</climb>
  <climb extraid="21" gradename="15Jot Jot Splat" length="15m" name="Jot Jot Splatfa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" number="" starslength="15m" idgrade="2115" faextra="Evan Peacock, May 1990.">A hand to fist crack that opens up towards the top. Start in the recess just R of Boys in Bikinis. The problem can be bridged all the way.</climb>
  <text idclass="160heading3" classid="heading3160">Finn Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="8" length="25m22" name="Finn" stars=" ** " id="22" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." stars=" ** " length="25m" grade="8" extra="">From Bumble traverse downhill to the base of the next major buttress which forms a series of blocky towers. Start off the block and follow the weakness straight up the nose which steepens at the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="23" gradename="10Bumbly" lengthfa="25mPeter Jackson, Lyle Closs, May 1971." namestars="Bumbly**" number="" starslength="**25m" idgrade="2310" faextra="Peter Jackson, Lyle Closs, May 1971.">From Cromlech go L around the base of the buttress and uphill to where an obvious ledge leads back R towards the nose. Follow the ledge then climb the crack to the ledge above Cromlech. Finish up the broken crack above, or via the nose on the L.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length id="25m24" name="Tim&apos;s Excuses" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." stars="***" idnumber="24" falength="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991.25m" grade="19" extra="">Start just L of Cromlech. Climb the crack with lots of runners, finishing through the small roof (crux).</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="18m" 25" name="Cromlech" id="25" fa="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." length="18m" grade="13" extra="">Start a few metres to the L of Tormentil. Climb the chimney which is loose at first and awkward in spots.</climb>
  <climb extraid="26" gradename="9Tormentil" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="250" guide.pageid="025" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="15m" name="Tormentil" number=""Peter Jackson, Robert McMahon, Chris Viney, 1969.1969." stars="" idnumber="26" falength="Peter Jackson, Robert McMahon, Chris Viney, 1969.1969.15m" grade="9" extra="">Traverse L and down from Oisin for 60m to the next buttress system which protrudes down the hill. R of the base of the buttress is a smooth curving corner crack facing R. Climb it.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§27" gradename="15Humber" lengthfa="15mEvan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." namestars="Humber*" number="" starslength="*15m" idgrade="2715" faextra="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991.§">The face climb 1m R of Tormentil. The runner placement requires some thought but is bomber.</climb>
  <climb extraid="28" gradename="17Garage Sale" lengthfa="12mEvan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991." namestars="Garage Sale" number="" starslength="12m" idgrade="2817" faextra="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Sep 1991.">Start about 15m R of Hummer on a slab, just past a roof-capped mini-buttress. Climb the LH of the two lines, finishing up the hand crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="29" gradename="11Little Black Balls" lengthfa="12mColin Reed, Evan Peacock, Sep 1991." name="Little Black Ballsstars="" number="" starslength="12m" idgrade="2911" faextra="Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Sep 1991.">The line just R of Garage Sale and a good beginners route.</climb>
  <text idclass="161heading3" classid="heading3161">Delinquents Area</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="22" length="8m30" name="Maggot On A Brick" number="" stars="**" id="30" fa="Garn Cooper, Richard Bottomley, Lucas Bottomley, Anna Hasan, May 1991." stars="**" number="" length="8m" grade="22" extra="">The short sheltered face about 30m L of Daytime Delinquents just above The Naughty Bottom Burp. The climb has 2 bolts and three cruxes that get progressively easier.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="20" length="12m" 31" name="The Naughty Bottom Burp" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990. 1990." stars="" number="" length="12m" grade="20" extra="§">Start about 20m L of Rogering the Rock on a small separate buttress with a clean face line and chockstone filled chimney on the R , and at a sag bush. Climb up to the ledge on the LH side and a #2RP, then continue back R to the horizontal break. Climb up the sloping ledge and a knifeblade runner, then up to the top and loose blocks.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="20" length="20m"32" name="Rogering the Rock" number="" stars="*" id="32" fa="Roger Parkyn, Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1990." stars="*" number="" length="20m" grade="20" extra="">The result of some rather rigorous cleaning techniques... Start immediately left of Daytime Delinquents on a wide angles orange corner below a roof. Climb the corner past a BR on the R , then trend left to a large ledge, before finishing up the arête.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§33" gradename="17Daytime Delinquents" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="320" guide.pageid="032" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="14mAl Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 1984." namestars="Daytime Delinquents*" number="" starslength="*14m" idgrade="3317" faextra="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 1984.§">Desperately in need of a brush. About 40m left of Oisin is a separate buttress with a conspicuous roof at 5m. Follow the crack to the roof, through it tentatively and then up the lichenous RH line above.</climb>
  <climb extra="§" grade="22" length="22m
  <climb id="34" name="Little Squeaky Feet" number="" stars="***" id="34" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Al Adams, Colin Reed, Dec 1991." stars="***" number="" length="22m" grade="22" extra="§">Proves camalots are better than friends! Start about 15m uphill from Something Scurrilous is a leftward trending RP crackline. Follow this up the overhanging wall, with the infamous camalot placement. Looks and is excellent.</climb>
  <text idclass="162heading3" classid="heading3162">Oisin Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="§35" gradename="19Something Scurrilous" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="340" guide.pageid="034" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="25mAl Adams, Garn Cooper, Jun 1990." namestars="Something Scurrilous***" number="" starslength="***25m" idgrade="3519" faextra="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Jun 1990.§">A colourful and action-packed experience. Start 25m L of Oisin and 20m R of Daytime Delinquents, at a prominent buttress with a she-oak at its base. Climb the L side of the face behind the tree to a ledge at 4m. Continue up the central crack and bulge to a stance and BR. Climb the shallow groove to the handcrack (crux) to gain a ledge. Hand traverse under the large block out R then mantle awkwardly to gain it's top. Finish up the thin crack to the top of the pinnacle.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m <climb id="36" name="Mega Smegma" number="" stars="" id="36" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Roger Parkyn, Jun 1990." stars="" number="" length="25m" grade="16" extra="">Start at the weakness 3m right of Something Scurrilous. Climb the line to the bulge and pull through it on layaways. Continue up the tight handcrack to where it veers right. Continue up using a layaway edge and move L out into the chimney. Continue up the easy chimney and clamber across the void.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§37" grade="16" length="25m" name="Genetic Junk Yard" number="" stars="" id="37" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Colin Reed, Dec 1991." stars="" number="" length="25m" grade="16" extra="§">Start on the downhill prow of the Catoblepas buttress, on a brushed slab. Climb easily up the slab to the roof, through this (RP runner) and continue easily.</climb>
  <climb extraid="38" gradename="14Catoblepas" guide.actiontype="submit" guide.id="37climb" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Catoblepas" number="" starsid="37" idguide.action="38submit" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Oct 1988." stars="" number="" length="20m" grade="14" extra="">About 10m L of Oisin is another large buttress. The line starts in a widish crack on the RH side of the buttress, then trends L onto the eastward facing side. Continue straight up with the crux at the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="39" gradename="11Oisin" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="380" guide.pageid="038" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="20mRobert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969." namestars="Oisin**" number="" starslength="**20m" idgrade="3911" faextra="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Chris Viney, 1969.">The flakes on the R should be treated with care, as should the possum. Contour L from Bismark to the third buttress line which protrudes downhill to that level. The buttress rises from an elevated flat platform and has a narrow chimney on its R. From the platform, climb the obvious straight crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="40" gradename="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="39"Mulliners Code" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Mulliners Code" numberguide.page="0" starsguide.id="*39" idguide.action="40submit" fa="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981." stars="*" number="" length="20m" grade="16" extra="">A major disappointment once you have done the flake. Climb the crack up the LHS of a flake 3m R of Oisin (of dubious attachment). Either continue up the dirty gully above, or move L and climb the RH edge of the delicately stacked flakes just R of Oison.</climb>
  <climb extraid="41" gradename="18Maelstrom" lengthfa="20mEvan Peacock, Aug 1988." namestars="Maelstrom" number="" starslength="20m" idgrade="4118" faextra="Evan Peacock, Aug 1988.">The slightly overhanging problem just R of Mulliner's Code. Climb up into the small sentry box until the line joins the aforementioned then continue up that line.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="1842" length="20m" name="Ploughman&apos;s Launch" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1989." stars="" idnumber="42" falength="20m"Evan Peacock, Sep 1989. grade="18" extra="">The line just L of the Alekhine's Defence buttress. Climb the arête on large holds to the horizontal break at 4m and runners. Continue up Mulliner's Code.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§43" gradename="Gecko"19 fa=" length="12m" name="GeckoAdrian Herington, Doug Bruce, 1985." stars="*" number="" starslength="*12m" idgrade="4319" faextra="Adrian Herington, Doug Bruce, 1985.§">The less ugly variant of the two. The direct start and finish of Alekhine's Defence.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§44" gradename="19Alekhines Defence" lengthfa="12mGarn Cooper, Al Adams, Oct 1984." namestars="Alekhines Defence*" number="" starslength="*12m" idgrade="4419" faextra="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Oct 1984.§">Has sent a few people away empty-handed over the years. The face 5m right of Mulliner's Code. Climb the face trending diagonally L from the bottom RH corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="45" grade="18" length="15m" name="Electric Exercise Bike" numberfa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Oct 1984." stars="**" idnumber="45" falength="15m"Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Oct 1984. grade="18" extra="">Beats any workout available at the gym! About 5m L of The Ants Pants is a narrow chimney. Follow the groove up the face 2m R of this. Face climb to the sentry box at half height, then follow the crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="§" grade="20" length="15m
  <climb id="46" name="Liars and Losers" number="" stars="**" id="46" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990." stars="**" number="" length="15m" grade="20" extra="§">A quality route, starting at the base of the arête. The LH arête of the Bicycles Don't Fly buttress. Climb to the small roof, reach over for a RP runner before continuing and more RP's. Mantle to a BR, then continue up the arête, before a final step L to a friend pocket and the tree belay.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="17" length="15m47" name="Bicycles Don&apos;t Fly" number="" stars="**" id="47" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1985." stars="**" number="" length="15m" grade="17" extra="§">Want a bet? Starts just left of The Ants Pants taking the line through the overlap up the middle of the face. Despite looks, there is good natural protection.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="15m" 48" name="The Ants Pants" number="" stars="" id="48" fa="Bob Bull, John Moore, Apr 1971." stars="" number="" length="15m" grade="13" extra="">The crack up the face of the buttress 5m L of Ferio. Jam the crack to the overhang, then directly to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="18" length="22m"49" name="Don&apos;t Jolt That Bolt" numberfa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Sep 1985." stars="**" idnumber="49" falength="22m"Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Sep 1985. grade="18" extra="">Can be trickier for the not-so-tall. R of the Ants Pants is a face route equipped with a bolt and monster hanger. Start out R then move to an undercut L, then straight through past the bolt on some choice moves.</climb>
  <climb extraid="50" gradename="17Ferio" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="490" guide.pageid="049" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="12m" name="Ferio" number=""Peter Jackson, Michael McHugh, Di Batten, Jan 1971." stars="**" idnumber="50" fa="Peter Jackson, Michael McHugh, Di Batten, Jan 1971. length="12m" grade="17" extra="">About 20m uphill to the right of Oisin on the northern corner of the buttress is a clean corner. Layback to a resting spot on the L wall below where the crack narrows. Step R to place pro, then layback until a long reach brings a jug over the back. Finish directly up the steep corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§51" gradename="21Tall Dudes" guide.actiontype="submitclimb" guide.idpage="500" guide.pageid="050" guide.typeaction="climbsubmit" lengthfa="12mAl Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988." namestars="Tall Dudes" number="" starslength="12m" idgrade="5121" faextra="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jun 1988.§">A mongrel of a start now that a key hold has been pulled off. Takes the line up the R wall of Ferio. Starts in a shallow groove and gains a small ledge. Continue up the LH side of the arête to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§52" grade="22" length="15m" name="Picnic in the Front Room" number="" stars="**" id="52" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, Steve Carter, Jan 1990." stars="**" number="" length="15m" grade="22" extra="§">Follows the incipient crack 3m R and around the corner from Tall Dudes. Follow the fused crack until it ends - the crux in protected with a #0 friend. Step L and finish up Tall Dudes.</climb>
  <climb extraid="53" gradename="12Directissimo Man" lengthfa="8mAl Adams, Jul 1984." namestars="Directissimo Man" number="" starslength="8m" idgrade="5312" faextra="Al Adams, Jul 1984.">Climbs the nose of the second buttress line which protrudes downhill left of Bismark and about 40m R of Oisin. From the base of the flat rock platform, climb the obvious crack and face holds to the top.</climb>
  <problem extraid="" grade="V154" name="Fadel" number="" stars="" id="54" fa="Colleen McCullough, Noel Ferrier, Jun 1990." stars="" number="" grade="V1" extra="">The boulder problem immediately L of Cryptic Clue (past the chimney).</problem>
  <climb extraid="55" gradename="22Cryptic Clue" lengthfa="10mAl Adams, Evan Peacock, Oct 1988." namestars="Cryptic Clue*" number="" starslength="*10m" idgrade="5522" faextra="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Oct 1988.">Another utterly contrived test piece. Uphill in the gully L of Mr Queasy is a blank looking wall broken by a horizontal at about 7m. Climb the face on the LH side of the wall using a bolt and a pin for protection - but the LH arête is out of bounds! There are two loose blocks at the top, though they are keyed in.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" lengthid="10m56" name="Anagram" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988." stars="*" idnumber="56" falength="10m"Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988. grade="21" extra="">The face to the R of Cryptic Clue. Start of the RH edge, on face moves. Mantle up onto some slopes, stand, place RP's, then follow the incipient crack to the horizontal break. Finish straight up on good face holds.</climb>
  <climb extraid="M1 §" grade="19" length="15m" 57" name="Ode to a Robotic Arm" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990." stars="" idnumber="57" falength="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990.15m" grade="19" extra="M1 §">Across the small gully right of Anagram is a brushed face with a thin crackline starting at half height. Climb the easy crack to a ledge and a #2RP aid move (or if you have a robotic arm climb it free via a desperately wide pinching layaway - awaiting a FFA). Clip the BR from a small edge, then continue up to a horizontal break and easy ground once the crack is attained.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="13" length="12m58" name="Toes and Thumbs" id="58" fa="Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone, 1991." length="12m" grade="13" extra="">Start down the notch from Konked Out. Follow the corner/crack system to the ledge and tree.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length id="12m59" name="Mr Queasy" number="" stars="" id="59" fa="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Simon Stubbs, Bruce Newman, Sep 1988." stars="" number="" length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Go down the notch mentioned in Konked Out for 5m and on the L is a short handcrack. Belay at the eucalypt and climb the crack to the horizontal break. Surmount the bulge above for a slightly queasy experience, then reach through to a large ledge.</climb>
  <climb extraid="60" gradename="16Konked Out" lengthfa="12mAl Adams, Evan Peacock, Jul 1988." namestars="Konked Out" number="" starslength="12m" idgrade="6016" faextra="Al Adams, Evan Peacock, Jul 1988.">About 5m downhill and left of Zundapp is a notch with a prominent slab on the uphill side. Climb the slab to the ledge, then up the groove and through the bulge on the R.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§61" gradename="18Zundapp" lengthfa="20mEvan Peacock, Al Adams, Jul 1988." namestars="Zundapp**" number="" starslength="**20m" idgrade="6118" faextra="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Jul 1988.§">About 11m L and downhill of Paunch is an alcove with a dirty chimney up the LH side. Start 1m R, and continue up the brushed face with incipient cracks. Continue through the bulge and slab above, to finish up the R side of a small roof which leads to a short corner.</climb>
  <climb extraid="62" gradename="13Sundy Mockry" lengthfa="12mEvan Peacock, May 1990." namestars="Sundy Mockry" number="" starslength="12m" idgrade="6213" faextra="Evan Peacock, May 1990.">The obvious crackline about 5m R of Zundapp.</climb>
  <climb extraid="63" gradename="12Paunch" lengthfa="10mPeter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Feb 1971." namestars="Paunch" number="" starslength="10m" idgrade="6312" faextra="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Feb 1971.">About 25m L of Stung and across a grass gully is a high buttress with a tree at its base and rounded orange "paunch" at half-height. Climb the crack through the bulges up the RH side of the buttress.</climb>
  <text idclass="163heading3" classid="heading3163">Stung Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="64" gradename="12No Corruption" lengthfa="12m" name="No Corruption" numberRuss Hinze, Terry Lewis, 1975 - 1998." stars="" starsnumber="" idlength="6412m" fagrade="Russ Hinze, Terry Lewis, 1975 - 1998.12" extra="">Found below Fat and Married on an isolated buttress. The route takes the obvious crack up the centre.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="18" length="15m" 65" name="Fat and Married" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988." stars="**" idnumber="65" falength="15m"Evan Peacock, Tim Olding, Aug 1988. grade="18" extra="§">Lug your lard up this baby! Start at the big ledge that overlooks a grassy gully at the extreme LH end of Stung buttress. Climb the arête using layaways on the RHS then cross L and continue up the face to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="17" length="12m"66" name="Get Out Oscar" number="" stars="*" id="66" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Tim Albion, Oct 1990." stars="*" number="" length="12m" grade="17" extra="§">Starts about 4m R of Fat and Married and just R of a chimney. A couple of unprotected but easy moves lead to a crack and bomber RP protection. Continue straight up.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="15m" name="Stung" number="" stars="" id="67 <climb id="67" name="Stung" fa="Chris Dawson, May McWhirther, Sep 1974." stars="" number="" length="15m" grade="10" extra="">To locate Stung Buttress from Spazattack move uphill to the L and across the gully for 100m to a short face looking directly downhill with a dead She-oak atop. About 5m L of an obvious corner groove (Jesus Trousers) is a chimney. In between is a crack which begins at a flake at half height and finishes at a tree. Climb the R wall to the flake, then finish up the crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="12m68" name="Jesus Trousers" number="" stars="" id="68" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Noel Ward, Doug Fife, Oct 1982." stars="" number="" length="12m" grade="15" extra="">The dead tree obstructing the final move needs to be turfed off! Handjam and bridge up the obvious corner-groove.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="18" length="12m" 69" name="Time Warp" number="" stars="**" id="69" fa="Pete Steane, Doug Fife, Noel Ward, Oct 1982. Var: Nat Duhig, Mike Edwards, Nov 1986., Nov 1986." stars="**" number="" length="12m" grade="18" extra="§">Quintessential Lowdina face climbing. The thin crack up the face just R of Jesus Trousers. Don't forget to take a selection of small wires (RP's). Step onto the face from the R and up the crack trending L using layaways, face holds and wishful thinking. A short variant starts from the base of the buttress, trends R slightly and rejoins the original route.</climb>
  <text idclass="164heading3" classid="heading3164">Spazattack Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="§70" grade="18" length="20m" name="Perchance to Dream" number="" stars="***" id="70" fa="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Pete Steane, Dec 1984." stars="***" number="" length="20m" grade="18" extra="§">A highly entertaining move onto the perched block! Located beyond Spazattack buttress about 40m L of Bismark further up the hill on the same side. Starts up an unlikely looking face and poised above is a block attached to a gently overhanging arête.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§71" gradename="18Spazattack" lengthfa="18mGarn Cooper, Pete Steane, Oct 1984." namestars="Spazattack**" number="" starslength="**18m" idgrade="7118" faextra="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Oct 1984.§">Climbs the big buttress 10m L of Wetcheck, passing the prominent roofs on the L. Just left of a thin R trending crack in the middle of the buttress (Spazattack Direct) is a groove line. Climb this to the horizontal break, then up the grooves above to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="§" grade="23" length id="18m72" name="Spazattack Direct" number="" stars="" id="72" fa="Top Rope: Evan Peacock, Justin Kennedy, Oct 1985. FFA: Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Jun 1990." stars="" number="" length="18m" grade="23" extra="§">Takes the R trending crack in the middle of the Spazattack buttress, then straight up Spazattack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="20" length="25m" 73" name="Drury Line" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992." stars="***" idnumber="73" falength="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992.25m" grade="20" extra="§">Once tried many years ago by Blockhead, but he gave up after breaking a drill. Tackles the roof R of Spazattack. The route is marked by guano courtesy of the local falcon. Climb the obvious easy face (no pro) to the horizontal break, then up to the first roof and a BR. Trend L to a groove and then straight up.</climb>
  <climb extraid="4Þ" grade="26" length="20m74" name="Being A Pirate" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1992." stars="**" idnumber="74" falength="20m"Evan Peacock, Sep 1992. grade="26" extra="4Þ">The overhanging arête 3m R of Drury Line. A desperate techno-slab, followed by a strenuous journey up the arête around the roof. 4BR's.</climb>
  <text idclass="165heading3" classid="heading3165">Bismark Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="75" gradename="17Hooter" lengthfa="20mPeter Jackson, Noel Ward, Doug Bruce, 1984." namestars="Hooter**" number="" starslength="**20m" idgrade="7517" faextra="Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, Doug Bruce, 1984.">A Jackson classic! From the foot of Wetcheck move L onto the face of the buttress and follow the rising traverse across a thin flake to the horizontal crack and a piton runner. Continue straight up the vertical crackline (crux) to an easy mantle and pleasant crack to the top. Take a brush.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="15" length="20m"76" name="Grasshopper Island" number="" stars="*" id="76" fa="Evan Peacock, Tim Albion, Colin Reed, 1992." stars="*" number="" length="20m" grade="15" extra="§">The companion to Hooter. Easier but perhaps more bold, and a typically good Lowdina face route. Takes the RH line, bristling with runners (except for a 4m runout in the middle section).</climb>
  <climb extraid="77" gradename="13Wetcheck" lengthfa="20mJohn Moore, Peter Jackson, Aug 1970." namestars="Wetcheck" number="" starslength="20m" idgrade="7713" faextra="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Aug 1970.">About 10m L and uphill from Bismark is a small bay with a couple of chimneys. L of the chimneys and facing out is a straight crack. Climb it.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="17" length="15m"78" name="Mrs Malaprop" number="" stars="" id="78" fa="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." stars="" number="" length="15m" grade="17" extra="§">The slab/face in the alcove just R of Wetcheck. Nice moves, but the runners are dubious (all wires).</climb>
  <climb extraid="§79" gradename="18V8 Donk" lengthfa="25mEvan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992." namestars="V8 Donk" number="" starslength="25m" idgrade="7918" faextra="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Feb 1992.§">Start immediately L of Hood on a ledge about 10m up. Gain the ledge from the L and climb to the horizontal break. Crux to the small ledge, then follow the #1 RP crack, before a mantle to easier ground.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="30m80" name="Hood" numberfa="Michael McHugh, Robert McMahon, 1968." stars="***" idnumber="80" falength="Michael McHugh, Robert McMahon, 1968.30m" grade="16" extra="">The original route at Lowdina. Start as for Bismark for 2m, then hand jam L onto the nose. Continue to the base of the wide crack, which is followed for 6m until able to step L onto the face. From the good foothold gain the wide crack above, and continue to the chimney and mantelshelf finish.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="25m81" name="Subvert the Dominant Paradigm" numberfa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, 1986." stars="*" idnumber="81" falength="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, 1986.25m" grade="15" extra="">Follows the crackline 1m L of Bismark. Finish R at the roof (second climbed through at grade 18).</climb>
  <climb extraid="82" gradename="15Bismark" lengthfa="25mMichael McHugh, Peter Jackson, 1968." namestars="Bismark**" number="" starslength="**25m" idgrade="8215" faextra="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, 1968.">The landmark for finding everything else here. Look for the conspicuous white bird-poo stain on the large orange coloured buttress in the centre of the crag. The initial 10m of easy rock can be avoided. Up the crack in the prow to the bulge and around it using small holds on the nose. Continue past the small rooves and bridge the chimney to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="§" grade="22" length="15m <climb id="83" name="Doug&apos;s Rat Roxanne" numberfa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Jun 1991." stars="*" idnumber="83" falength="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Jun 1991.15m" grade="22" extra="§">Climb the overhanging orange face R and round the arête from Bismark, past 2 BR's.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§84" grade="18" length="15m" name="Felix" number="" stars="**" id="84" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." stars="**" number="" length="15m" grade="18" extra="§">Steep but on big holds, up the arête between Doug's Rat Roxanne and Motorcycle Mama, past 2 BR's.</climb>
  <climb extraid="85" gradename="11Motorcycle Mama" lengthfa="15m" name="Motorcycle Mama" numberEvan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" starsnumber="" idlength="8515m" fagrade="Evan Peacock, May 1990.11" extra="">A typical example of the Lowdina scene. Start of the LH wall of a wide gully just L of Illegal Move. Follow the well protected crack (careful of loose rock at the top).</climb>
  <climb extraid="86" gradename="19Illegal Move" lengthfa="12mGarn Cooper, Al Adams, Sep 1985." namestars="Illegal Move*" number="" starslength="*12m" idgrade="8619" faextra="Garn Cooper, Al Adams, Sep 1985.">Start immediately R of the Bismark ledge. A bouldery start leads to the crux at 7m (bolt protected). Continue up the finger crack, to finish with a haul over the chockstone.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="18" length="12m87" name="Otto Sausages" number="" stars="*" id="87" fa="Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Steve Ford, Aug 1992." stars="*" number="" length="12m" grade="18" extra="§">A nice climb on RP's just R of Illegal Move. Climb the thin crack to a horizontal break - careful of the hanging block on the L.</climb>
  <climb extra="§" grade="23/25" length="7m" name="Bonsai" number="" stars="*" id="88 id="88" name="Bonsai" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Apr 1990." stars="*" number="" length="7m" grade="23/25" extra="§">Start up the gully and R of Illegal Move, where a steep orange/gray face stands at the head of the gully, with a native cherry on its R. From the bottom L of the face, climb the obvious line past a #3 RP where the line crosses R and up to a bolt. A small side-pull and long dyno leads to the ledge (or do it statically on the arête at grade 23), then finish easily.</climb>
  <text idclass="166heading3" classid="heading3166">Virag Area</text>
  <climb extraid="§89" gradename="17Squark" lengthfa="23mEvan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988." namestars="Squark*" number="" starslength="*23m" idgrade="8917" faextra="Evan Peacock, Al Adams, Oct 1988.§">Named for the falcons who nested near here in the late 80's. Start immediately L around the corner from Ungar. Follow the thin fused crack through the series of ledges - face climb, mantle, face climb, mantle ... finishing up the wide crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="90" gradename="17Ungar" lengthfa="25mJohn Moore, Peter Jackson, Sep 1970." namestars="Ungar**" number="" starslength="**25m" idgrade="9017" fa="John Moore, Peter Jackson, Sep 1970.extra="">Refresh your crack technique! About 30m uphill and R of Bismark is a buttress with three distinctive cracklines. Virag is the LH line. Up the wide crack, through the overhang, then continue easily then strenuously through an orange bulge to a foothold. Gain the ledge on the L via a hidden sidepull, then move R onto the nose and on to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="22" length="25m"91" name="Plastacine Thylacine" number="" stars="***" id="91" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Steve Ford, May 1990." stars="***" number="" length="25m" grade="22" extra="§">Must be the best looking line at the cliff. Start on the platform 3m L and downhill from Virag, at the base of the bulging face near two trees. Climb the crack in the bulge (couple of #3 RP's which turned like a key), tackle the bulge proper (crux) to a BR, then some slab moves bring the horizontal at the base of the headwall. Straight up this on small wires to another BR, before exiting R to a wide crack which is followed into Virag.</climb>
  <climb extraid="92" gradename="17Virag" lengthfa="25mMichael McHugh, Peter Jackson, Jan 1971." namestars="Virag**" number="" starslength="**25m" idgrade="9217" faextra="Michael McHugh, Peter Jackson, Jan 1971.">The impressive crack R of Ungar. Climb the initial corner and bridge out onto the jammed block. Up into the wide crack to reach the salvation of a face hold on the LH edge (crux). Follow the shallow corner to the roof, swing L and up to finish.</climb>
  <climb extraid="93" gradename="18Wolfetone" lengthfa="25mRobert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969." namestars="Wolfetone***" number="" starslength="***25m" idgrade="9318" faextra="Robert McMahon, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969.">The thin layback corner R of Virag has been known to spit people out indiscriminately. Climb the awkward corner/crack to a difficult exit onto the R wall. Lay off tight fingers and smear gingerly upward to the security of a small stance (crux). Power up the crack and chimney above.</climb>
  <climb extraid="94" grade="25" length="10m" name="A Salted Battery" numberfa=" Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Sep 1992." stars="*" idnumber="94" falength=" Evan Peacock, Grant Rowbottom, Sep 1992.10m" grade="25" extra="">The very steep face route on the back of Wolfetone. Start L of Baby Animals and climb up past 2 BR's (stick clip the first). Good fun!</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="16" length="8m"95" name="Baby Animals" id="95" fa="Lucas Bottomley, Richard Bottomley, Anna Hasan, Apr 1991." length="8m" grade="16" extra="§">From Fruitless contour around L for about 20m to some largish boulders and a small face cleaned by rockfall. Climb the crack (small wires), with an interesting crux for short runts.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§96" gradename="16Mr Whimpy" lengthfa="14mNoel Ward, Peter Jackson, Jul 1984." namestars="Mr Whimpy*" number="" starslength="*14m" idgrade="9616" faextra="Noel Ward, Peter Jackson, Jul 1984.§">From Wolfe Tone move along to the second small buttress just R. Climb straight up the front of the buttress on flakes to the ledge on the R edge. Clip the fixed peg, then move back L onto the face of the summit block and up to finish.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§97" gradename="18Fruitless" lengthfa="12mGarn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984." namestars="Fruitless*" number="" starslength="*12m" idgrade="9718" faextra="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984.§">From Mr Whimpy move R and up the gully for 20m to a roundish buttress opposite Sweetie, with a small yellow roof halfway up. Climb the face of the buttress for 6m to the ledge below the roof, move L round it, then back R to the crack and the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="12" length="10m98" name="Bumper Crop" id="98" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Sep 1984." length="10m" grade="12" extra="">Climbs the short orange corner at the top of Fruitless.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="9" length="8m"99" name="Old Man&apos;s Hands" fa=" id="99" fa="Stuart Scott, Adrian Herington, 1981.Stuart Scott, Adrian Herington, 1981." length="8m" grade="9" extra="">The small handcrack past a bulge about 15m R and up a gully from Fruitless. Start on the LH side of the gully just before a huge boulder.</climb>
  <text idclass="167heading3" classid="heading3167">Sweetie Area</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="25" length="10m100" name="Good O&apos;s From Heaven" id="100" fa="Evan Peacock, Mar 1990." length="10m" grade="25" extra="">The face immediately L and around the corner from Surprise Surprise and protected with a bolt.</climb>
  <climb extraid="101" grade="22" length="12m" name="Surprise, Surprise" id="101" fa="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989." length="12m" grade="22" extra="">Harder than it looks. Uphill and L of Sweetie and behind that buttress is a brushed slab protected by two bolts. The climb is directly opposite Old Mans Hands, across the gully. Climb easily to the first bolt, then move up R to a small scoop. After the second bolt move up to another bolt then the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§102" gradename="22Acerb" lengthfa="20mEvan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989." namestars="Acerb***" number="" starslength="***20m" idgrade="10222" faextra="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, Nov 1989.§">Move to the LH end of the next set of buttresses,R and up of Wolfe Tone, in the middle of the face 2m L of Sweetie. Traverse L to the arête past a BR. Up this to a shallow groove and another BR and the base of a sloping roof. Traverse out R (airy) on underclings to finish up Sweetie.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§ Þ103" gradename="26Onklunk" lengthfa="20mEvan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990." namestars="Onklunk***" number="" starslength="***20m" idgrade="10326" faextra="Evan Peacock, Colin Reed, May 1990.§ Þ">The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back L and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.</climb>
  <climb extraid="104" gradename="12Sweetie" lengthfa="20mPeter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Mar 1971." namestars="Sweetie***" number="" starslength="***20m" idgrade="10412" faextra="Peter Jackson, Mendelt Tillema, Mar 1971.">Climbs the wide crack on the R of the buttress whose upper half is split by a thin crack. At the ledge, hand traverse out L along the thin crack to the vertical crack, then follow this. Just below the top, finish up the rib to the R.</climb>
  <problem extraid="" grade="V1105" name="Nappy Rush" numberfa=" Evan Peacock, May 1990." stars="" idnumber="105" fagrade=" Evan Peacock, May 1990.V1" extra="">A hard little boulder problem (top-rope recommended) with a poor landing. Start on the overhanging mini-buttress just L of Yoda.</problem>
  <climb extraid="§106" gradename="19Yoda" lengthfa="25m" name="YodaPeter Jackson, Dec 1980." stars=" *** " idlength="10625m" fagrade="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980.19" extra="§">Climbs the obvious thin line up the face just L of Chocolate. Start up this, then move L on the undercling. A thin layaway and mantel lead to the small ledge, then the jug and upper face, finishing up the crack on the L.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="21107" length="25m" name="Yoda Direct Start" id="107" fa="Evan Peacock, May 1990." length="25m" grade="21" extra="">A technical little start - unprotected, but not such a bad landing. Follow the slab 2m L of the Yoda and Chocolate until it joins the layaway above the undercling (and runners!).</climb>
  <climb extraid="108" gradename="16Chocolate" lengthfa="25m" name="Chocolate"Peter Jackson, Dec 1980." stars=" ** " idlength="10825m" fagrade="Peter Jackson, Dec 1980.16" extra="">About 6m right of Sweetie is an obvious crack with a bulge halfway up and a chimney on its R. Climb the twin-thin cracks, then follow the main crack through the bulge and the ledge. Finish up the side crack.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="20" length="16m" 109" name="Brittle Little Mothers" stars=" ** " id="109" fa="Evan Peacock, Roy Langman, Al Adams, Dec 1989." stars=" ** " length="16m" grade="20" extra="§">Takes the line through the roof to the R of Chocolate. Climb the face under the roof, traverse to the LH end and reach up for the BR before the mount. Continue to the horizontal, then up the groove to a bomber RP, finishing on the ledge.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="16" length="25m"110" name="Ulysses" id="110" fa="Mendelt Tilema, Peter Jackson, Mar 1971." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">A few metres L of Chocolate is a small recess with a deep chimney to the R. Climb the wide crack in the L corner, to a grassy exit. Continue up the corner on finger jams, then finish up the awkward bottomless chimney.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="25m"111" name="Miasma" stars=" * " id="111" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dave Gardner, 1982." stars=" * " length="25m" grade="15" extra="">Beware the poisonous vapours! The deep chimney just R of Ulysses.</climb>
  <text idclass="168heading3" classid="heading3168">Albatross Area</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="30m" name="Albatross" stars=" *** "<climb id="112" name="Albatross" fa="Ian Lewis, Feb 1974. FFA Henry Barber May 1975." stars=" *** " length="30m" grade="23" extra="">The obvious overhanging slanting corner-line to the R of the Ulysses gully. Start 6m R of that line, with a layback around the block. Swing around the corner, then mantle and move up to the ledge, past the spike and up to the bottomless crack, which is followed to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="16" length="20m113" name="A Ginger Cat Ate Rebecca" id="113" fa="Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Grant Rowbottom, Aug 1992." length="20m" grade="16" extra="§">Start about 15m up the gully R of the Albatross buttress. Climb up to the horizontal break below the roof, then launch up the face (small RP's).</climb>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="17" length="25m"114" name="Yeti Flakes" id="114" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Pete Steane, 1981." length="25m" grade="17" extra="§">Start two sub-buttress R of Albatross on the same contour. Face climb up the thin flake on the LH side of the buttress.</climb>
  <climb extraid="115" gradename="11Unfinished Symphony" lengthfa="8mChris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974." namelength="Unfinished Symphony8m" idgrade="11511" faextra="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Sep 1974.">Start on the front of the next buttress right of Yeti Flakes, a few metres R of a large recess. Climb up the crack to the ledge. Follow any of the variety of lines up (bounded on the R by a small square-cut pillar).</climb>
  <climb extraid="116" grade="13" length="15m" name="Fingers and Thumbs" numberfa="Phil Robinson, Chris Rathbone, Jul 1976." stars="*" idnumber="116" falength="15m"Phil Robinson, Chris Rathbone, Jul 1976. grade="13" extra="">Thoughtful footwork required to negotiate an undercling. Start at the thin crack splitting the front of the next small buttress R of Unfinished Symphony, behind a big sheoak. Climb the crack past the undercling flake, to the break. Straight up the face of the buttress to top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="117" gradename="16Team Pursuit" lengthfa="15mDoug Bruce and Team, 1985." namestars="Team Pursuit*" number="" starslength="*15m" idgrade="11716" faextra="Doug Bruce and Team, 1985.">Short and sweet... Seems rather changed now from the original description. Start from the gully about 6m R of Fingers &amp; Thumbs. Traverse L and diagonally up on sizeable footholds and around arête to join the thin crack line at a suspect flake, 1m R of F&amp;T. Thinly protected. Continue up past the flake to horizontal. Follow wide crack to top. An alternative variant is to climb F &amp; T for 3m and then traverse R for a metre to the bottom of the thin crack line Follow this to the top past the suspect flake and wide crack, as for the original route (17).</climb>
  <climb extraid="118" gradename="20Team Pursuit Direct" lengthfa="15mEvan Peacock, Apr 1990." namelength="Team Pursuit Direct15m" idgrade="11820" faextra="Evan Peacock, Apr 1990.">The direct start.</climb>
  <problem extraid="119" grade="V1" name="If This Pavement Should Stray Or Rome, Smack It In The Bum, I Love Debra" numberfa="Garn Cooper, 1986." stars="" idnumber="119" fagrade="V1"Garn Cooper, 1986. extra="">The boulder problem up the detached pinnacle on the RH side of the gully R of Fingers and Thumbs.</problem>
  <text idclass="169heading3" classid="heading3169">Greenknowe Buttress</text>
  <climb extraid="120" gradename="13Hooning the Block" lengthfa="15mGarn Cooper, David Loone, 1985." namestars="Hooning the Block" number="" starslength="15m" idgrade="12013" faextra="Garn Cooper, David Loone, 1985.">From Fingers and Thumbs go downhill to a prominent buttress/pillar lower than the rest. This route climbs the arête 10m L of Greenknowe. Start up the face R of the arête, then move onto the arête at the horizontal, finishing straight up.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="15m"121" name="York Street" id="121" fa="Dave Gardner, Ross Adams, 1986." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">The line just R of Hooning the Block.</climb>
  <climb extra="§" grade="18" length="25m <climb id="122" name="Sheening With the Dovens" numberfa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Sep 1984." stars="**" idnumber="122" falength="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Sep 1984.25m" grade="18" extra="§">The arête a few metres L of Greenknowe. Poorly protected, improved by slinging a branch on a tree near the base of the route.</climb>
  <climb extraid="123" gradename="12Greenknowe" lengthfa="15m" name="Greenknowe"Peter Jackson, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969." stars=" *** " idlength="12315m" fagrade="12"Peter Jackson, Peter Jackson, Nov 1969. extra="">A few metres R of the lowest point of the buttress is a smooth chimney, blocked, and followed by two overhangs. Climb the chimney moving R up the rib to the small corner and top roof. Step L to the nose and around the overhang and the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§124" gradename="18Queasonaire" lengthfa="15m" name="Queasonaire"Evan Peacock, Mar 1989." stars=" * " idlength="12415m" fagrade="Evan Peacock, Mar 1989.18" extra="§">Climb the face 1m R of Greenknowe, with protection at 4m (and after the crux!), to join the aforementioned at its roof.</climb>
  <climb extra="§" grade id="21125" lengthname="18mCaged" namefa="CagedMarcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989." stars=" ** " idlength="12518m" fagrade="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989.21" extra="§">Start on the Shirvan buttress below the obvious scoop and bulge on the L. Climb to the scoop, step L to the ledge, then hit the bulge directly. Continue up (keeping left of Shirvan) - a fixed pin protects the crux, with pre-placed 20cm sling recommended.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§126" gradename="14Shirvan" lengthfa="16m" name="ShirvanPeter Jackson, Noel Ward, 1984." stars=" * " idlength="12616m" fagrade="14"Peter Jackson, Noel Ward, 1984. extra="§">From the middle of the buttress just R of Greenknowe move up on big holds to the ledge on the RH edge. Step L for protection behind a suspect flake, then finish directly up the middle.</climb>
  <text idclass="192heading3" classid="heading3192">Biceps Buttress and Papillion Area</text>
  <text idclass="194text" classid="text194">Biceps Buttress where the following three routes are located, is situated directly above Greeknowe Buttress.</text>
  <climb extraid="§" grade="15" length="10m127" name="Joyride" id="127" fa="Al Adams, Simon Stubbs, Paul Taylor, Nov 1987." stars="*" number=" 1987." stars="*" number="" length="10m" grade="15" extra="§">Trickier than it appears. At the left hand end of Biceps Buttress a leaning gum tree sits in front of a slabby arete. Start behind tree and mount the small bulge, then continue up the face to the top. The challenge is to find the RP placements and not use the tree.</climb>
  <climb extraid="128" grade="13" length="10m" name="Juvenile Hall" id="128" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, 1987." stars="*" number="" length="10m" grade="13" extra="">Not meant for grown ups! The obvious handcrack on the same buttress 3m right of Joyride. Continue up chimney to top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§  1Þ129" gradename="18Bulging Biceps" lengthfa="12mAl Adams, Simon Stubbs, Nov 1987." namestars="Bulging Biceps**" number="" starslength="**12m" idgrade="12918" faextra="Al§ Adams, Simon Stubbs, Nov 1987. 1Þ">Better entertainment than sideshow alley! Located on the right hand side of Biceps buttress immediately across the gully from Papillon buttress. Start 3m across the gully from Rocket Fuel, off the chockstone in the gully. Clip the BR with a wire or hanger, then launch off the chockstone diagonally left then up the steep arête. A #4 cam and RPs ease the anxiety somewhat. Continue to the top. Egress down the back.</climb>
  <text idclass="195text" classid="text195">Papillon Buttress is at the same level and immediately right of Biceps Buttress. The flat area in front is Lunchspot Ledge.</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="15m"130" name="Rocket Fuel" id="130" fa="Al Adams, Pete Steane, Jul 1984." stars="" number Jul 1984." stars="" number="" length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Above Lunchsop Ledge is a dead gum tree standing in front of the buttress. The start of Rocket Fuel is located 5m left of the dead gum at a leftward facing flake. Climb the flake to a ledge with a large block on it, then follow the multiple crack system above to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="131" grade="16" length="15m" name="Blue Turtles" id="131" fa="Al Adams, Martin Rose, Sep 1987." stars="" number="" length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Needs taking to with a brush!. Climb the line that starts 1.5m right of Rocket Fuel.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§132" gradename="17Snoober" lengthfa="17mPeter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981." namestars="Snoober**" number="" starslength="**17m" idgrade="13217" faextra="Peter Jackson, Bob deCesare, Jan 1981.§">The RP placements on this Lowdina classic require significant thought! Climb the thin line up the face 2m left of the dead gum. Continue through the bulge and up the face above to belay on top. Easy walk off down the back to the right.</climb>
  <climb extraid="133" gradename="11Papillion" lengthfa="15mPeter Jackson, Bob Bull, May 1971." namestars="Papillion*" starsnumber="*" idlength="13315m" fagrade="Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, May 1971.11" numberextra="">Pleasant. Viewed from Lunchspot Ledge, Papillon is the obvious jam crack just left of the dead gum. Jam to a small ledge and up the corner to belay on top.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="15" length="20m"135" name="Canary" stars="" id="135" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972." stars="" number="" length="20m" grade="15" extra="">Entertaining. The line 1m right of Papillion behind the dead gum. Climb up and through the bulge then step up and right into the crackline. Follow the thin then up a steep fist width crack to a ledge. Climb the right hand side of the face above to top out next to Papillon and Snoober.</climb>
  <climb extraid="§136" grade="18" length="12m" name="Bird on a Wire" stars="" id="136" fa="Steve Hamilton, Hamish Jackson, Sep 1991." stars="" number="" length="12m" grade="18" extra="§">Start just right of Canary as the buttress turns uphill. Follow the system of thin cracks straight up to the previous climbs overhang.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="20" length="12m137" name="Sein Zum Tode" number="" stars="" id="137" fa="Marcel Jackson (with TR inspection) and Rob Williams 1994?. Williams 1994?." stars="" number="" length="12m" grade="20" extra="">Climbs the enticing face R of Bird on a Wire. The crux is the first moves although the upper section is a little balancy. The main piece of protection is to be found at the first horizontal.</climb>
  <climb extraid="138" grade="13" length="12m" name="Fist" id="138" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Jul 1972." length="12m" grade="13" extra="">The short jam crack in the gully around the back of the Papillon buttress. Finishes at the same spot as Canary.</climb>
  <climb extraid="139" gradename="10The Prave" lengthfa="10mGarn Cooper, 1987." namelength="The Prave10m" idgrade="13910" faextra="Garn Cooper, 1987.">The line up the front of the buttress directly below Papillion that finishes on Lunchspot Ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="190" name="Middled Aged Crisis" fa="Dave Drake, Geoff Wayatt, 1979." name="Middled Aged Crisis" length="8m" grade="16">The short crack on a small buttress at the top of Papillion. Follow the finger crack, which grows into to offwidth.</climb>
  <climb extraid="" grade="17" length="20m140" name="Heidelberg Direct" id="140" fa="Peter Steane (TR), Feb 1984." length="20m" grade="17" extra="">A clean corner leading to an offwidth. Found 7m R of Middle Aged Crisis immediately uphill from Fist. Climb the line avoiding the worst of the tragedy by traversing from the top of the shaky block around the nose and up on small holds. Continue straight up. Difficult protection.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length id="20m141" name="Expiry" id="141" fa="Asahel Bush, Phil Robinson, Jun 1975." length="20m" grade="13" extra="">Start about 20m R of Heidelberg Direct on the LH side of the second of the two prominent recesses, and opposite Rudge. Climb up the crack for 4m, then traverse L around the awkward bulge and up to the ledge. Surmount the offwidth and chockstone, then climb the large curving flake at the top - careful of rockfall.</climb>
  <text idclass="172heading3" classid="heading3172">Rudge Area</text>
  <climb extraid="" grade="23" length="23m142" name="Lumbar Cruncher" numberfa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Mar 1990." stars="***" idnumber="142" falength="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Mar 1990.23m" grade="23" extra="">Start in the gully immediately L of Rudge at the steep orange wall. Climb the wall (crux), then continue up the thin crack to the overhang. Move L, pull through onto the arête on the jugs. Don't escape L, but traverse back R to finish up the overhanging crack. Note that two small knife blades were used to protect the crux (placed on abseil). A steep, technical and varied route.</climb>
  <climb extraid="143" grade="16" length="20m" name="Rudge" id="143" fa="Lyle Closs, Ian Lewis, Oct 1973." length="20m" grade="16" extra="">The obvious line on the RHS of the recess opposite Expiry. There is an overhanging jammed block at its base. Climb onto the block via the LHS. Move up the wide crack, then R and back L, then to top.</climb>
  <climb id="173" name="The Danger Hog Shuffle" length="25m" grade="17" fa="Martin Walch, Garn Cooper, Jun 1986." stars="****" length="25m" grade="17">The wall immediately R of Rudge, Bridge the shallow corner and clip the BR. The crack above is reached by a leftwards move. Stand up on the block and follow the obvious crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="176" name="Wee Ratty" lengthfa="8m" grade="13Otmar Buchman, 1981." stars="**" falength="Otmar Buchman, 1981.8m" grade="13">The layaway on the small buttress a few metres R of Rudge.</climb>
  <climb id="177" name="Quine" length="18m" grade="18" fa="Marcel Jackson, Peter Jackson, Oct 1989." length="18m" grade="18">A few metres R and uphill from Wee Ratty is a small flat buttress. Climb up easily to the base of the thin crack on the L arête. Follow this up, finishing to the R of the main face.</climb>
  <climb id="178" name="Exactuary" length="10m" grade="14" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, 1986." length="10m" grade="14">Exact details unknown but known to be somewhere in the vicinity of Big Electric Cat.</climb>
  <climb id="179" name="Big Electric Cat" length="10m 12" fa="Garn Cooper, 1986." length="10m 12">The bridging problem to the L of Gilmigrim,</climb>
  <climb id="180" name="Gilmigrim" length="10m" grade="13" fa="Garn Cooper, Noel Ward, Aug 1984." length="10m" grade="13">Beware of loose blocks. About 50m R of Wee Ratty is a higher and more prominent buttress with a square roof at its top. From the front of the buttress climb the wide crack to the ledge. Continue up the face to the small ledge then either pull through the roof or step back R and up.</climb>
  <climb id="188" name="Triangle Smile" fa="Ray Lassman" length="6m" grade="14" fa="Ray Lassman">Climb the crack through the bulge at the top of No Hi Jinx buttress.</climb>
  <climb id="189" name="Small Acoustic Dog" length="8m" grade="21" extra="§="Small Acoustic Dog" fa="Colin Reed, Evan Peacock, Steve Ford, Nov 1990." length="8m" grade="21" extra="§">Located on the small buttress just L of No Hi Jinx. Climb straight through the roof on RP's and cams.</climb>
  <text idclass="187heading3" classid="heading3187">Wailing Wall</text>
  <climb id="181" stars="*" name="No Hi Jinx" length="12m" grade="17" fa="Al Adams, Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Aug 1984." stars="*" length="12m" grade="17" extra="§">The last major buttress features a large blank orange wall. No Hi Jinx climbs the LH arete. From the base of the corner immediately L of the orange wall, climb up to a small ledge then gain the arête and continue up it to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="182" stars="***" name="Wailing Wall" length="12m" grade="26" fa="Marcel Jackson, Hamish Jackson, Jan 1992." stars="***" length="12m" grade="26" extra="3Þ">Superb and sustained face climbing. Climbs the distinctive blank orange wall past 3BR's and a #3 Friend in the final easy finishing crack.</climb>
  <climb id="183" name="Argonautica" length="15m" grade="16" fa="Chris Dawson, Mary McWhirther, Oct 1974." length="15m" grade="16">Start just to the R of Wailing Wall and climb the obvious crack/chimney.</climb>
  <climb id="184" name="Velveteen" length="7m" grade="6" fa="Rob Williams, Marcel Jackson, 1994." length="7m" grade="6">Climbs the short arête and wall of perfect dolerite about 4m R of Argonautica. A knife blade was placed in the horizontal on the FA.</climb>
</guide>

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