Page History

<guide>
  <header name="Sand River" walk="10 - 50 minutes." sun="Sunny" rock="Sandstone 10 - 30m high." acknowledgement="" intro="Sand River was discovered in 2017 and has yielded many good routes on some of the best sandstone in Tasmania. Yes, that&apos;s not saying much, but the rock here is surprisingly good. The crags are mostly north facing and sheltered from the wind, and are relatively warm and dry in winter. This area provides the best reliable winter climbing in the south of the state. However, avoid easterly wet weather. " history="" access="The developed crags are on publicly owned Forestry and Crown land. The public land extends as far south as the Panopticon, but further south than that it&apos;s private. The range of hills to the north of the Colosseum is the southern boundary of the Buckland Military Training Area - stay out! &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Please don&apos;t jeopardise access:&lt;br/&gt;* Don&apos;t explore, climb or develop in the  Military Training Area, or on private land without previously negotiating access with the landowners&lt;br/&gt;* Don&apos;t block the roads, it really pisses people off. And don&apos;t leave any valuables in your car, as theft and vandalism here is a distinct possibility (although it hasn&apos;t happened yet). &lt;br/&gt;* There are many obvious bird roosts on the cliffs, and Peregrine Falcons and Wedge Tail Eagles frequent the area. If you find a raptor nesting, keep away from the nest and out of line of sight, and let the climbing community know on thesarvo.com or the CCT facebook group.&lt;br/&gt;* No fires &lt;br/&gt;* Keep dogs under effective control&lt;br/&gt;* Leave any fixed or stashed gear exactly as you found it - it all belongs to someone working hard to develop the crag.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;To get there:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;1. Drive to Buckland, about 60km NE of Hobart on the A3, then turn left on the C318. After 3km, turn turn right onto Sand River Rd. About 8km along this the road takes a sharp left land turn, with some dirt tracks coming off it. This takes a bit under an hour from Hobart. Do not speed past the farmers house as he is allowing access to the Panopticon through his land. He is friendly and has a young child and a dog that plays  near the road. Slow down and wave to them. It&apos;s the White House at the bottom of the hill.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;2. Take the right hand sandy track.  If you have the clearance drive along this for another 500m to a flat clear parking area before it heads down hill, otherwise park at the start. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;3. For the Firewall: Walk down the old fire trail for about 50m, and then follow a red taped track off left through the bracken then down the spur line (as for the Colosseum). The spur ends at the top of a small cliff (Riverside) just above the river. The left side of the Firewall area is visible about 100m to the north (left as you face downhill). The red taped track to the Colosseum descends to the river to the north of Riverside. Part way along this descent, a yellow taped track leads about 100 metres across north to the Firewall. Overall it’s about a ten minute walk from the car park. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;4. For the Colosseum: Approach as per the Firewall, but keep going past Riverside Crag down to the river, then follow the tapes north up the river for about a kilometre through the dense forest which is surprisingly easy walking. Once you&apos;re down in the river bed you can&apos;t see much, but you will get glimpses of the west facing slabby cliffs up to the right (the left end is Eldorado). Keep following the tapes upstream to where the cliff changes direction to face north, and take the right fork of the stream. Cross the stream and follow the tapes up the hill, arriving under the massive roof of Crossing the Rubicon, about 35-45 mins walk from the car, depending on your speed.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;5. The Panopticon is in the next valley to the south of the Colosseum, to the SE of the parking area. Walk down the old logging track from the car park right down till the track turns to the right. Veer off left and follow a taped line down to the creek and then straight up the hillside the other side to the base of the cliff. The crag is the first major buttress to the left, about 30 mins walk from the car. " camping="" autonumber="true" id="1"/>
  <text id="128" class="indentedHeader">Safety: &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;PLEASE. Realise that this is a new cliff and there is loose rock everywhere! There is the potential for loose rock on most if not all of the climbs, be careful. Wear a helmet and do not unnecessarily sit or stand under the under the cliff when others are climbing. It is NOT the gym.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;* Due to the relatively remote location of the Sand River Crags, the CCT has located a first aid kit hanging in a red bag from the roof of the cave at the left-hand end of the Colosseum, near where the track comes up. The kit is for emergencies only, and is fairly comprehensive and has bandages for snake bite. Should any of the kit contents be used please call 0408 122 394 and replacement/s will be arranged. Climbers visiting this (and other) areas should carry their own first aid supplies and means of communication – there has already been one serious accident on the crags. &lt;br/&gt;* In the event of life threatening emergency or where it is unlikely that the victim can self-extricate call 000 to alert Ambulance &amp; Police Services for rescue. Mobile Service is unreliable but may be obtained from locations such as south (right) of Plebeian’s Wall. Consider carrying a personal location device if you are not on Telstra. Helicopter access is best from the clear area between the Colosseum and Plebeian Wall, and beside the Panopticon. &lt;br/&gt;* Unlike older, more established cliffs, there is still loose rock on climbs and ledges even though first ascentionists have done their best to clean them thoroughly. Wearing a helmet is strongly recommended, and it would be prudent not to climb directly below another party. &lt;br/&gt;* Sandstone can be deceptive – it may appear solid when it is in fact surprisingly fragile (especially when it's wet). As a result, most climbs are bolted (U bolts, not expansion), but if establishing trad routes, be aware that apparently solid small wires and cams may simply fail, shattering off crack edges and breaking thick flakes... and please, clean new routes if you are going to claim them!&lt;br/&gt;</text>
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  <text id="7" class="heading2">Barbecue Crag</text>
  <text id="8" class="text">From the main road take the left fork for a few hundred metres to an open area. This quite small crag is downhill to the left. There are no routes here yet, but there is potential for a couple of small ones, and it's quite close to the car.</text>
  <text id="3" class="heading2">The Firewall</text>
  <text id="4" class="text">The Firewall is a beautiful little crag of steep red and orange rock. Its north-easterly aspect sees sun until mid-afternoon, and the crag is sheltered from strong winds. It doesn’t rain much in the area, but when it does most of the routes are steep enough that both the climbs and belay areas stay dry (although sections of the cliff may seep after prolonged heavy rain).&lt;br/&gt;With a comfortable flat belay areas, a concentration of routes at a range of grades, and its relative closeness to Hobart, the Firewall is a great winter sport climbing crag.&lt;br/&gt;Follow the taped track from the parking area (this track continues to the Colosseum). Routes are described from left to right.</text>
  <climb name="Lucifer" id="106" stars="" extra="Þ" number="1." length="18m" grade="17" fa="Tony McKenny, Stu Scott 2017">Up slab avoiding the direct start and join up on the arete.</climb>
  <climb name="Lucifer Direct. " id="17" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="2." length="18m" grade="22" fa="Stu Scott, Tony McKenny, Justin Otlowski May 2017">Left Hand side of the cliff. Arête with bouldery start.</climb>
  <text id="92" class="text">The access track from Riverside reaches the cliff just to the right of Lucifer Direct at a steep slab capped by a roof. The slab has a prominent crackline up its centre, and a left facing layback system on its right side.</text>
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  <climb name="Unquenched" id="93" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="3." length="8m" grade="22" fa="O Gervasoni August 2017">Start just left of the crackline. Crank leftwards onto the overhanging rounded arête, then up and over bulge via pockets and horizontals to slab (DBB). Lower off, or step right to finish as for Welcome to the Dark Ages.</climb>
  <climb name="Welcome to the Dark Ages" id="94" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="4." length="19m" grade="21" fa="O Gervasoni, August 2017">Start up the prominent crack line. A tricky layback sequence leads to the overlap. Make a technical traverse 4m left then finish up the pillar / arête feature to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="Project OG" id="95" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="5." length="8m" grade="" fa="">The tendon tearing steep slab of impeccable stone underneath the roof.</climb>
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  <climb name="Branded and Shackled" id="96" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="6." length="10m" grade="19" fa="O Gervasoni, July 2017">Shares the initial bouldery start with Glowing Embers, but instead of moving right, mantles left onto the wall above. Once established, climb up the steep wall to a slopey anchor clip.</climb>
  <climb name="Glowing Embers" id="26" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="7." length="18m" grade="22" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017">On the left end of the main overhanging 'Fire Wall'. Boulder up the short left arete then trend right on immaculate rock to a rest at the base of a pillar. Up pillar to roof, and a strenuous pull on flakes.</climb>
  <climb name="Flash Point" id="81" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="8." length="18m" grade="26/27" fa="G Phillips 2017">As for Gambit but at the second last bolt head left to a slightly easier finish.</climb>
  <climb id="126" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="9." name="Gambit" length="18m" grade="26/27" fa="G Phillips 2017">As for Firewall to the ledge. Then head left and up.</climb>
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  <climb name="Firewall" id="19" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="10." length="18m" grade="26" fa="Garry Phillips, Apr 2017">A striking line on superb rock.</climb>
  <climb name="Firestarter" id="28" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="11." length="18m" grade="24" fa="G Phillips May 2017">Steep climbing over a series of bulges.</climb>
  <image id="121" src="fire4.jpg" height="1067" width="600" legend="true" legendTitle="Firewall" legendx="19" legendy="897">
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      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>28</climb>
      <climb>91</climb>
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  <climb name="Thor&apos;s Hammer" id="91" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="12." length="17m" grade="26" fa="Garry Phillips Aug 2017">Easy climbing leads to a bouldery crux.</climb>
  <climb name="Adam Project" id="97" stars="" extra="Þ" number="13." length="" grade="" fa=""/>
  <text id="127" class="text">To the right of Thor's Hammer, the crag curves and becomes southeast facing. The rock in this section isn't of the same cleanliness or quality as the routes further left, but features some good climbing at more achievable grades.</text>
  <climb name="Deputy Warden" id="102" stars="**" extra="5Þ" number="14." length="8m" grade="12" fa="O Gervasoni, September 2017">Towards the right end of the Firewall is an 8m high buttress under the main wall. On its right side is a featured slab. Get established, moving left onto the slab proper. Up to DBB.</climb>
  <climb name="The Towering Inferno" id="103" stars="**" extra="11Þ" number="15." length="18m" grade="14" fa="O Gervasoni, September 2017">Remarkably steep and exposed for the grade. Start as for Deputy Warden, but continue straight up the corner. At the top of the sub-buttress move boldly right onto the main wall, and continue up the exposed arête and corner above.</climb>
  <text id="5" class="heading2">Riverside Crag</text>
  <text id="6" class="text">Riverside Crag is a series of short walls to the south of the junction of Sand River and the fork that heads up towards the Colosseum. You go past the northern end of it on taped track to the Colosseum, just after the turn off to the Firewall. It's a bit shadier and mossier than the other crags, but there is potential for several good routes here, and it's not that far from the car.</text>
  <text id="165" class="heading3">Riverside Main</text>
  <text id="166" class="text">Keep going left around the corner form the first bit to find the main wall. It's reasonably shady.</text>
  <climb id="210" stars="*" extra="" number="16." name="Streamline" length="15 m" grade="21" fa="Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni. Nov 2017. ">Follow the straight line.</climb>
  <climb id="176" stars="" extra="Þ" number="17." name="Project" length="15m" grade="" fa="Jon &amp; Dave">Up the middle of the wall, to a steep cruxy bulge.</climb>
  <climb id="167" stars="" extra="Þ" number="18." name="Project " length="15m" grade="" fa="Jon &amp; Dave">Wall a couple of metres to the R of previous</climb>
  <text id="136" class="heading3">Riverside Right</text>
  <text id="137" class="text">This is the sunny, north facing bit that the track goes right past.</text>
  <climb id="138" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="19." name="Eastern Quoll" length="12m" grade="23" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2017.">A hard bouldery start leads to face climbing, then head right to the last two bolts of Spotted Tail Quoll.</climb>
  <climb id="139" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="20." name="Spotted Tail Quoll" length="12m" grade="19" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Oct 2017.">Follow the seam, with a tricky move right at the top.</climb>
  <text id="9" class="heading2">The Colosseum</text>
  <text id="10" class="text">The Colosseum is a very steep north facing crag about 35 minutes walk from the car. The rock is excellent, with some of the best steep sandstone in Tasmania.</text>
  <text id="52" class="heading3">Superunknown Buttress</text>
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  <text id="53" class="text">Another 50m left of Terrastomp is a high vertical wall with a cave at the base.</text>
  <climb name="Dangeresque" id="77" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="21." length="10m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries July 2017">Start on the stepped ledge. Clip the first bolt on Cleganebowl then head for the arete.</climb>
  <climb name="Cleganebowl " id="54" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="22." length="12m" grade="22" fa="Jon Nermut, Aug 2017.">Get hype. The smaller buttress to the left of the wall provides good steep climbing.</climb>
  <climb name="De Double Doosh" id="55" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="23." length="15m" grade="23" fa="Dave Humphries Jul 2017.">Interesting technical climbing. Climb the wall, using the arête to finish.</climb>
  <text id="11" class="heading3">Terrastomp Buttress</text>
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  <text id="12" class="text">Head around left from the main amphitheatre, past the scramble up to the top, to the next bit of good rock.</text>
  <climb name="Project" id="98" stars="" extra="Þ" number="24." length="" grade="" fa="">The face to the left of Terrastomp.</climb>
  <climb name="Terrastomp" id="13" stars="**" extra="4Þ" number="25." length="10m" grade="19" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Apr 2017.">The lovely short arête. The first route at Sand River.</climb>
  <climb name="The Cheat" id="99" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="26." length="8m" grade="20" fa="Dave Humphries, Aug 2017.">Steep and fun juggy climbing to the right of Terrastomp, with a harder move right at the top.</climb>
  <text id="20" class="heading3">The Cave Sector</text>
  <text id="21" class="text">The left hand side of the Colosseum is capped by an enormous roof.</text>
  <climb name="#Nero" id="68" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="27." length="7m" grade="24" fa="Garry Phillips May 2017">A very short route finishing at the big horizontal break, at the far left side of the cave.</climb>
  <climb id="135" stars="" extra="" number="28." name="Hydra" length="20m" grade="20?" fa="Sammi Dos &amp; Fraser Labine-Romain 24/09/2017">Gear protectable crack in the middle of the colosseum wall. Hardest moves are at the start, followed by sustained climbing. Be careful exiting, there is minimal gear and a abundance of lichen.</climb>
  <image id="46" src="rubicon.JPG" height="1067" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Cave Sector Right Side" legendx="14" legendy="18">
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  <climb name="Crossing the Rubicon" id="34" stars="***" extra="11Þ" number="29." length="20m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, May 2017">A stunning line on great rock. The difficulties just keep on coming.&lt;br/&gt;Start at far right hand side of the cave. Climb up the hard bouldery corner (stick clipping the second bolt is the way to go) and hand traverse out left along the very lip of the roof. Up the thin crack to the overhang, with a sensational finish out to the left.</climb>
  <climb name="Project" id="50" stars="" extra="" number="30." length="" grade="" fa="Stu and Tony">Line continuing from end of CTR traverse, then up middle of slab</climb>
  <text id="15" class="heading3">The Orange Sector</text>
  <text id="22" class="text">Around the middle of the Colosseum, on either side of where the creek flows down, is a sector of beautiful orange rock.</text>
  <climb name="#Caligula" id="105" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="31." length="15m" grade="25/26" fa="Garry Phillips 24/8/17">Starts directly under the waterfall. Up the wall above to a vague shake in the corner/scoop. Traverse left via some super cool moves.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
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  <climb name="Hercules" id="29" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="32." length="15m" grade="25" fa="G Phillips May 2017">Through the small roof to the break. Then the wall above.</climb>
  <climb name="Hercules Returns" id="30" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="33." length="15m" grade="26" fa="Garry Phillips 2017">The direct finish to Hercules. A vicious thin boulder sequence leads to the victory jugs.</climb>
  <climb name="Alea Jacta est" id="14" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="34." length="15m" grade="23" fa="Garry Phillips, Apr 2017.">On the most orange of rock in the main amphitheatre.</climb>
  <climb name="Alea Jacta est Right Hand Finish" id="48" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="35." length="15m" grade="23" fa="G. Phillips, May 2017">From the small corner system half way up Alea Jacta est, traverse right along the break and up. More sustained but less cruxy than the Alea Jacta est.</climb>
  <climb name="Romani Ite Domum" id="117" stars="" extra="Þ" number="36." length="12m" grade="21" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Sep 2017">Arete/wall left of the steep crack feature that divides the Orange from the Black.</climb>
  <text id="23" class="heading3">The Black Sector</text>
  <text id="24" class="text">The right hand side of the main Colosseum area is a mainly black wall with a white face covered with pockets to start.</text>
  <climb id="156" stars="" extra="" number="37." name="project garry" length="" grade="" fa=""/>
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  <climb name="Lions" id="32" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="38." length="7m" grade="17" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017">The steep pocketed white wall to DBB under main overhang.</climb>
  <climb name="Fed to the Lions" id="40" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="39." length="15m" grade="24" fa="O Gervasoni, May 2017">From the DBB on Lions, power up the 45 degree overhanging wall above.</climb>
  <climb name="Way of the Dragon" id="66" stars="**" extra="8Þ" number="40." length="14m" grade="23" fa="O Gervasoni, June 2017">Classic introduction to pumpy and steep sandstone climbing.</climb>
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  <climb name="#Caesar" id="57" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="41." length="15m" grade="25" fa="Garry Phillips June 2017">The bulge to the left of Et tu, Brute</climb>
  <climb name="Et tu, Brute" id="49" stars="**" extra="Þ" number="42." length="15m" grade="26" fa="Garry Phillips, May 2017">Campus start leads to some pretty awesome moves above.</climb>
  <climb name="Twenty Million Miles to Earth Project (OG)" id="39" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="43." length="9m" grade="" fa="">The overhanging arete at the right end of the Black Sector.</climb>
  <text id="58" class="heading2">Plebeian's Wall</text>
  <text id="59" class="text">To the south of the Colosseum, about 50m or so right of the Black Sector over a bracken covered scree, is the Plebeian's Wall, featuring steep, clean rock with some excellent routes. A taped line through the bracken on the left of the Wall leads up to the cliff top.&lt;br/&gt;The area has been developed by a commune of Plebs aka Stu Scott, Tony McKenny, Bob Bull, Al Beech, Dave Stephenson, Ivan Riley, Neale Smith, Ben Maddison, and others who have all shared in the onerous tasks of cleaning, equipping and belaying the routes to date, and who have in most cases added a signature route of their own as well. &lt;br/&gt;The left hand end of the wall has climbs 20 to 25m high while further right the cliff is broken by a ledge at half height. A smaller wall, Minions Wall, continues further right again&lt;br/&gt;The first route takes a line up the steep prow, left of an orange face.&lt;br/&gt;</text>
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  <climb name="Working Class Heroes " id="60" stars="**" extra="7Þ " number="44." length="18m" grade="17" fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs , June 2017.">Varied climbing ending with an exciting steep finish on large jugs over the roof. Can be climbed on the right after the second bolt without using the wobbly rocks if you don't trust them. They have resisted a concerted effort to remove them with bars, hammers and much brute force.</climb>
  <climb name="Riffraff Roof " id="63" stars="***" extra="10Þ " number="45." length="19m" grade="18" fa="Tony McKenny and the Plebs, June, 2107. Alt. finish; Tony McKenny, July 2017.">Terrific climbing. Starts a couple of metres right of WCH and takes a direct line up the steep glassy wall, finishing leftward via the under-cling.&lt;br/&gt;Alternative finish: instead of completing the under-cling left, bridge up through the overhang directly, clipping the bolt off right (not visible from below). From a large jug out left on the lip, weave a way up and back right to finish at the rap station. Quite exciting but maybe not as good as the original.</climb>
  <climb name="Spartacus" id="61" stars="***" extra="9Þ" number="46." length="20m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, July 2017.">A steep Arapiles-quality wall leads to hard moves over the bulges. Exciting climbing on excellent rock. Magic.</climb>
  <climb name="Memento Mori (project)" id="69" stars="" extra="Þ" number="47." length="20m" grade="" fa="Stu and Plebs">Remember, you too will die.....&lt;br/&gt;Takes a line on the wall to the right of Spartacus. Up pleasant slab and the right facing corner, traverse right on the orange wall under the roof. Finish steeply over the bulges.</climb>
  <climb name="Upwardly Mobile " id="88" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="48." length="13m" grade="18" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, Aug 2017.">This is actually the first half of Memento Mori (project) that has been rigged as a bit of fun with a couple of nice moves. Rap off (U bolts) from ledge.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="The Plebeian " id="64" stars="**" extra="13Þ" number="49." length="22m" grade="24" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, July 2017.">Thoughtful wall climbing to the ledge, then blast on up the superb red wall and finesse the steep ground on subtle holds.</climb>
  <climb name="Via Appia" id="89" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="50." length="10m" grade="11" fa="Ivan Riley and the Plebs.">A steep little wall to start then climb the massive left facing flake crack. Rap station below start of Plebs Rustikus Project. Access climb for upper climbs, or as a simple beginners climb.</climb>
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  <text id="90" class="text">The next climbs start from a ledge at half height, accessed by by the Via Appia (Grade 11), or by abseiling in. Obey the road rules and keep to the left and DO NOT go near the two massive flakes or the dirty gully on the right (especially nasty dragons).</text>
  <climb name="Plebs Rustikus " id="65" stars="*" extra="5Þ" number="51." length="12m" grade="21" fa="Ivan and the Plebs">Climbs up and over the right pointing overhang. The grade needs to evolve on this one as there are different ways of doing it - but its good.</climb>
  <climb name="Tory Tossers" id="84" stars="*" extra="Þ" number="52." length="11m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson and Plebs">Complex and cool.</climb>
  <climb name="The Proletariat (project)" id="71" stars="" extra="5Þ" number="53." length="9m" grade="" fa="Neale and the Plebs">The next line right on overhanging orange wall. Start from u-bolt anchor. Nice moves on hard water washed stone.</climb>
  <text id="73" class="heading3">Minions Wall&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <text id="74" class="text">To the right of the start of Via Appia is an obvious break in the cliff line, capped by the dangerously loose flakes and a particularly dirty gully. Further right again is a short, steep wall of excellent sandstone.</text>
  <climb name=" Buck o boys  " id="75" stars="" extra="3Þ" number="54." length="9m" grade="16" fa="The Buckoboys (aka Tony, Stu and Bob Bull), Aug 2017.">Climbs the grey streaked wall, and directly up shallow corners, finishing on right at the very top. A good warm up.</climb>
  <climb name="Hoi Polloi" id="78" stars="*" extra="3Þ  " number="55." length="10m" grade="18" fa="Tony McKenny and The Plebs">Climb the short bulging wall: for the best of the technical climbing, keep to the nose of the buttress, avoiding the temptations of the Minion's crack line to the right. Belay as for Buckoboys. Fun stuff.</climb>
  <climb name="Minions " id="70" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="56." length="12m" grade="19" fa="Neale Smith and the Plebs, July, 2017.">Technical climbing on small holds up the water washed groove, a metre right of Hoi Polloi.</climb>
  <text id="113" class="heading2">Eldorado</text>
  <text id="114" class="text">West facing cliffs around the corner to the right of the Colosseum, visible as you walk down the hill from the parking area. The sun gets here later than at the Colosseum or Plebeians wall. Good in summer - cooler in winter. The climbs are longer than most in the area - slabs, walls and arête climbing up to 30m. Generally less steep than the Colosseum but the climbs have been "mined" to expose the value. Grades are possibly more reasonable than other areas. Eldorado is about 150m right of Plebeians Wall and the best way in is the normal route to the Colosseum, then walk right along the base of the cliff past Plebeians Wall along Owens super highway to Eldorado. Pay Dirt and Gold Leaf are at the centre near a large, square boulder at the bottom of the wall/slabs.</text>
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  <climb name="Inca Trail " id="122" stars="**" extra="12Þ" number="57." length="28m" grade="19" fa="Bob Bull and Stu Scott, Oct 2017.">Now with direct start to ledge with DBB. Sustained, steep, superb slabbing to the very last move. Left leaning and up the flake. Crimps to the top. Gold.</climb>
  <climb id="132" stars="*" extra="12Þ" number="58." name=" Miner&apos;s Rights" length="28m" grade="19" fa="Bob Bull  and Plebs, Nov 2017">Slab and wall to the right of Inca Trail</climb>
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  <climb name="Pay Dirt " id="109" stars="*" extra="9Þ" number="59." length="26m" grade="15" fa="Bully and the Plebs">A great introduction. Will improve with age. Slab left facing corner crack,</climb>
  <climb name="Gold Leaf" id="110" stars="**" extra="12Þ" number="60." length="26m" grade="20" fa="Stu Scott  and Bob Bull, Oct 2017.">Thin and delicate. Sustained and well protected - so nothing not to enjoy. Follow the bolts.. The direct is about 22 and classy but if you sneak to the left.....</climb>
  <climb id="187" stars="" extra="" number="61." name="Bucko Girls (project)" length="" grade="" fa=""/>
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  <climb name="Buried Treasure" id="123" stars="" extra="6Þ" number="62." length="15m" grade="20" fa="Chuck McGibbon and Plebs, Oct 2017">Follow the crack.</climb>
  <climb id="131" stars="*" extra="7Þ" number="63." name="Golden Thread" length="14m" grade="22" fa="Dave Stephenson, Nov 2017">Undercling up and over corner flake, then seams in smooth yellow wall to right of Buried Treasure.</climb>
  <climb id="209" stars="" extra="" number="64." name="Philosophers Stone ( project)" length="15m" grade="" fa="Stu and plebs"/>
  <climb id="173" stars="" extra="6Þ" number="65." name="All That Glitters" length="15m" grade="14" fa="Tony McKenny and Chuck McGibbon, Nov 2017">Next major crack line.</climb>
  <climb name="Alchemy " id="124" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="66." length="14m" grade="23" fa="Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017.">Up slab to seams on wonderful orange wall. Technical climbing on the best rock. A test piece.</climb>
  <climb name="Fool&apos;s Gold (Project)" id="125" stars="" extra="6Þ" number="67." length="12m" grade="" fa="Dave Stephenson and Plebs">Up golden rock on the right.</climb>
  <climb id="129" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="68." name="Midas&apos; Touch" length="18m" grade="21" fa="Stu Scott and and Bob Bull, Oct 2017.">The superb Arapilian looking arete on the buttress 50m or so to the right of Alchemy. Classy moves on superb stone.</climb>
  <text id="35" class="heading2">The Panopticon</text>
  <text id="36" class="text">The Panopticon is the next valley to the south of the Colosseum, and contains an extensive amount of rock. A fun day out for mortals, especially in winter.&lt;br/&gt;Named after Panoptes, in Greek mythology; he was a giant with a hundred eyes – the views from the crag certainly are superb. Port Arthur Prison was modelled on the Panopticon - the prisoner thought they were being watched from the central watchtower even when they were not.&lt;br/&gt;Follow the tapes up the hill from the stream bed to a cairn and walk left along the crag base for 20m or so to the foot of the first major buttress, the Jail House Rock. To the right of the cairn is apparently private land - there lie dragons so please keep off until access is established. The track hits the cliff at Jail house rock and proceeds left past the main Bentham and Foucault Butresses and finally gets to Wednesday Buttress.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The various crags and routes are described left to right - which is the opposite from how you encounter them. The Jail House Rock is the first buttress with climbs, a few minutes walk left from where the track meets the cliff. Wednesday Buttress, the first to be described, is about 10 mins walk left from the Jail House Rock.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;DO NOT go beyond Wednesday Crag as there are peregrines at the very top of the valley! This is close enough at this time and beyond the recommended distance. There is nothing of interest up there and no there is no need to pass this point. KEEP AWAY.&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <text id="193" class="heading3">Wednesday Buttress</text>
  <text id="194" class="text">This delightful buttress has a brace of worthwhile routes. Follow the cliffline for 10 mins L from Foucault's, past a couple of nice walls and dropping down into the alcove at the bottom of the buttress.</text>
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      <climb>195</climb>
      <climb>197</climb>
      <climb>198</climb>
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  <climb id="195" stars="*" extra="Trad" number="69." name="The Channel Highway" length="18m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland November 2017">Up the corner on the LHS of the buttress. Up the channel between two flakes trend L up juggy steep rock to lower off.</climb>
  <climb id="197" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="70." name="Risk A Verse" length="15m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland November 2017">A good sports route. The line L of Channel Highway. A delicate start leads to some tasty flake work in the upper half.</climb>
  <climb id="198" stars="**" extra="6Þ" number="71." name="Wednesday&apos;s Groove" length="15m" grade="22" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland November 2017">A beautiful open-book groove. A crimpy but short lived crux on excellent rock.</climb>
  <text id="202" class="heading3">Bully Boy Buttress&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <text id="204" class="text">100m left of Foucault buttress is an obvious sharp arete.</text>
  <climb id="203" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="72." name="Shape Shifter" length="17m" grade="18" fa="Bob Bull and the Plebs">Arete climbing with some interesting positions and nice balancy moves.</climb>
  <text id="154" class="heading3">Foucault Buttress</text>
  <text id="172" class="text">Left of Bentham Wall is an area of slabs, then a prominent right facing corner which arches into a roof at the top. There are a few tagged projects along with two classic routes that are a bit longer than those at Bentham Wall. The rock quality is not quite as good as Bentham Wall but the architecture and positions are excellent.</text>
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      <climb>151</climb>
      <climb>150</climb>
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  <climb id="151" stars="**" extra="12Þ" number="73." name="Deconstructionism" length="25m" grade="20" fa="Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017.">Sharp arête on left wall of big corner leads to a step right over the top of the roof to follow blunt arête to right. Balance up the polished slab below the upper roof, finishing with hanging corner at top.</climb>
  <climb id="150" stars="***" extra="12Þ" number="74." name="Power Over Mind " length="25m" grade="18" fa="Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017.">Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs.</climb>
  <text id="152" class="heading3">Bentham Wall</text>
  <text id="153" class="text">Five minutes left from The Jail House Rock is Bentham Wall. To the right are Rawl's Slabs (that have a couple of tagged routes), and to the left is Foucault Buttress. The area is named after Jeremy Bentham who designed the Panopticon. Great for those with a fetish....</text>
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      <climb>161</climb>
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  <climb id="148" stars="*" extra="Trad" number="75." name="Prohibition " length="18m" grade="17" fa="Ben Maddison, Ingrid Crossland &amp;  Neale Smith, Oct 2017.">A nice trad route. God forbid! Up the crack to lower-offs.</climb>
  <climb id="161" stars="*" extra="10Þ" number="76." name="Break Out" length="18m" grade="19" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland, October 2017">Left hand variant of Good Yard. Break left after fourth bolt of Good Yard. Finish up slab leading to lower-offs for Prohibition.</climb>
  <climb id="146" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="77." name="Good Yard" length="16m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison and Ingrid Crossland, October 2017.">The tricky groove leading to a roof, right of Prohibition. Above roof trend right to lower-offs.</climb>
  <climb id="147" stars="***" extra="9Þ" number="78." name="Recidivist" length="17m" grade="20" fa="Ben Maddison and Ingrid Crossland, Oct 2017.">Really classy climbing for repeat offenders. The line right of Good Yard, surmounting the bulge above the orange wall.</climb>
  <climb id="145" stars="" extra="7Þ" number="79." name="Felicific Calculus  (project)" length="15m" grade="" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs">Next line right.</climb>
  <climb id="184" stars="*" extra="6Þ" number="80." name="Fundamental Axiom " length="15m" grade="19" fa="Stu and Plebs">Short and sweet with an inky pinky finish.</climb>
  <image id="208" src="BenthamRightStitch.jpg" height="1135" width="900" legend="true" legendTitle="Bentham Wall Right" legendx="717" legendy="7">
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      <climb>162</climb>
      <climb>144</climb>
      <climb>143</climb>
      <climb>142</climb>
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  <climb id="162" stars="*" extra="Trad" number="81." name="Utilitarianism" length="14m" grade="14" fa="Chuck McGibbon and the Plebs, Oct 2017.">"The greatest Happiness for the greatest number". The trad crack to lower offs. Nice.</climb>
  <climb id="144" stars="***" extra="10Þ" number="82." name="Pain " length="17m" grade="23" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs">Bentham's motivational theory had two parts..... Pain, when it is intense, is sometimes described as "exquisite". This is.</climb>
  <climb id="143" stars="**" extra="10Þ" number="83." name="The Fine Line " length="17m" grade="22" fa="Stu Scott and Plebs, Oct 2017.">"The fine line between Pleasure and Pain". It actually is.... fine!?</climb>
  <climb id="142" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="84." name="Pleasure" length="17m" grade="21" fa="Stu Scott and the Plebs, Oct 2017.">A short climb that will feel much longer. Straight forward fun.</climb>
  <climb id="155" number="85." stars="*" extra="7Þ" name="Bentham&apos;s Nose " length="16m" grade="19" fa="Chuck McGibbon and the plebs, Oct 2017.">The arête. Use the last couple of bolts on Pleasure to reach the top. Inky Pinky start. A nice warm up for the Benthemite Trilogy.</climb>
  <text id="171" class="heading3">Rawl's Slabs</text>
  <climb id="164" stars="" extra="Trad" number="86." name="First Offence" length="16m" grade="18" fa="Ben Maddison &amp; Ingrid Crossland October 2017.">Good moves, well protected (small wires and medium cams) but a little dusty. The cleaned line on the left hand side of Rawl's Slabs. Up the corner at the left side of the slab, into a fine groove and flake to lower-offs.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text id="190" class="heading3">Buddy's Slabs</text>
  <text id="180" class="text">Left of The Jail House Rock is a short set of slabs. They will be popular easy climbs but truly heroic to clean.</text>
  <image id="206" src="Buddy&apos;sSlabs.jpg" height="1449" width="900" legendTitle="Buddy&apos;s Slabs" legend="true">
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    <legend>
      <climb>183</climb>
      <climb>191</climb>
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  <climb id="183" stars="" extra="4Þ" number="87." name="The Brush Off " length="13m " grade="13" fa="Bob Bull and Plebs">The obvious brushed line up the slab.</climb>
  <climb id="191" stars="" extra="Trad" number="88." name="Join the Circus" length="13m" grade="14" fa="Ingrid Crossland &amp; Ben Maddison November 2017">A really nice trad crack climb. The crack immediately R of The Brush Off.</climb>
  <climb id="159" stars="" extra="Trad" number="89." name="Sovereign Power" length="15m" grade="15" fa="B. Armstrong and J. Ridgers, Oct 2017">On the slab immediately to the left of the Rock is a splitter trad hand crack with a tree at 4m. Try not to piss off the ants. LIKELY THE SAME LINE AS "JOIN THE CIRCUS".</climb>
  <text id="171" class="heading3">The Jail House Rock</text>
  <text id="177" class="text">Walking left a few minutes from where the track first meets the cliff line, this is the first bolted buttress encountered.</text>
  <image id="205" src="JailHouseRock.jpg" height="1430" width="900" legendTitle="Jail House Rock" legend="true">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>42</climb>
      <climb>37</climb>
      <climb>43</climb>
      <climb>44</climb>
      <climb>62</climb>
      <climb>160</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb name=" Crime and Punishment " id="42" stars="*" extra="7Þ " number="90." length="17m" grade="16" fa="Dave Stephenson, Stu Scott and Tony McKenny, June 2017.">Climbs the left hand arête.</climb>
  <climb name="Guilty, as Charged. " id="37" stars="*" extra="7Þ" number="91." length="16m" grade="17" fa="Tony McKenny, Stu Scott and Dave Stephenson, June 2017.">Starts at base of thin crack, a couple of metres right of arête.</climb>
  <climb name="Impeachment " id="43" stars="*" extra="7Þ  " number="92." length="17m" grade="18" fa="Stu Scott, and  Tony McKenny, June 2017.">Climbs the steep wall a couple of metres right of Guilty as Charged, finishing up the arête.</climb>
  <climb name="Special Prosecutor " id="44" stars="*" extra="8Þ" number="93." length="17m" grade="18" fa="Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson and Tony McKenny, June 2017.">Climbs the right hand arête and trends right, sharing a bolt at mid height with Impeachment before climbing the steep head wall on the right.</climb>
  <climb name="Join the Dots" id="62" stars="**" extra="8Þ " number="94." length="17m" grade="18" fa="Stu Scott, and Tony McKenny, June 2017.">A good alternative combination, at about the same grade, is to climb the first section of Special Prosecutor to the shared bolt, and finish up the top arête of Impeachment.</climb>
  <climb id="160" stars="" extra="" number="95." name="Disciplinary Power" length="16m" grade="13" fa="B. Armstrong and J. Ridgers, Oct 2017">The trad crack several meters to the right of the Special Prosecutor arete. Nice jamming to an inconvenient tree, then follow the easy low angle crack and corner to the Special Prosecutor DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="207" stars="" extra="" number="96." name="Open trad project - Discipline and Punish" length="" grade="" fa="Ben Armstrong">The wildly overhanging crack line just left of where the access track first meets the cliff. The rock is slightly better quality than it looks, but still a bit dubious higher up. It has been dogged up on lead at around about 22.</climb>
</guide>