Page History

<guide pagesize="500" version="2">
  <header access="" acknowledgement=" " guide.action="submit" guide.id="0" guide.page="0" guide.type="header" history="" intro="White Stack is the second large outcrop south of Lassie&apos;s Wall. Access is approximately 150m past the track that leads down to Lassie&apos;s Wall. Looking south from White Stack the only decent piece of rock is the Sentry Box, 200m away, and just north of the stack you can see Island Zawn with the detached buttress of the island standing in it.&lt;br/&gt;The White Stack area comprises lower (sea level), middle and upper buttresses, between which is a broad ledge. Mithras finishes on this ledge, and it is possible to scramble to the top from the northern end. Access to the lower cliffs is easiest by abseil from this middle ledge.&lt;br/&gt;Island Zawn and Big Zawn are the next two areas north of White Stack, leading to Lassie&apos;s Wall." name="White Stack Area" rock="White granite, 10-25m" sun="Morning sun" walk="5 minutes" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="1" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" id="2">White Stack - Upper Tier</text>
  <climb id="90" number="1." name="Windjammer" length="15m" grade="18" fa="Thomas, John Fantini, Ben Maddison, 1980" stars="*" extra="">Sustained fist crack corner on the south side of the upper tier. Access by abseil from a big she-oak just below the highest point of the stack.</climb>
  <climb id="91" number="2." name="Silent Witness" length="15m" grade="22" fa="Simon Young and Garry Phillips 2006" stars="*" extra="">Again on the south facing wall at the highest point of the stack, a few metres right of Windjammer, climb a very wide but straightforward offwidth (2 x No. 6 Friends useful) to thin climbing left of the sharp arete of Silent Running, past a stainless peg near the top, ( placed later by Nick Hancock who thought the line unclimbed) .</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="3">These climbs are also on the upper buttress, but on the north east face. They start above the finish of the Mithras.</text>
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  <climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Kodak Tart" number="3." stars="" id="4" fa="Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, Feb 1995.">Up hanging arête at top of White Stack. Two bolt runners with 2 and 3 RP between bolts. A desperate, bouldery start past first bolt leads to easier climbing on the arête. The route is possibly better done as 23M1.</climb>
  <climb grade="15" length="10m" name="Fishcake" number="4." stars="" id="5" fa="N.Deka, R.Hamilton, 1981.">The corner crack on the left.</climb>
  <climb id="112" stars="" extra="" number="5." name="Winter weddings in December" length="10m" grade="16" fa="Rob Hardy 2017">The crack 1m left of RF. Climb the block to gain the base of a rightward slanting the hand crack. Climb the widening crack on good hand and fist jams. Near the top it is possible to step right to a good foothold on RF or finish directly up the crack. Large cams (4 and 5 camalots) helpful. &lt;br/&gt;N.B. Presumably this has been climbed before as it is a reasonable obvious line, but I couldn't find any details so I have added it here. Please edit if this is "your" line.</climb>
  <climb grade="16" length="10m" name="Roaring Forty" number="6." stars="" id="6" fa="R.McMahon, N.Smith, J.Richardson, 1981.">The companion route to Fishcake and 4m to its right.</climb>
  <climb grade="17" length="10m" name="Tashtego" number="7." stars="*" id="7" fa="R.Hamilton, A.Crowd, 1981." extra="">The leftward trending diagonal on the right face.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Return to Norm-ality" number="8." stars="" id="8" fa="Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Jul 2000.">This is the arête on the right of the ledge, you would have passed under it when you scrambled around. The route follows the arête and scoopy feature to its left. The gear is not great, but probably OK. Small cams in the horizontal after the first few moves and a wire low and right. The crux is standing into the corner and reaching the ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="78" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" id="9">White Stack - Middle Tier</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="10">Most of the climbs are on the Middle Tier.</text>
  <climb id="93" number="9." name="Dark Star" length="15m" grade="24" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Dec 2010." stars="**" extra="6Þ">Directly below Windjammer and gained by a 50m abseil southwards from the top of the stack, is a highly featured wall in a spectacular position. Climb up left from a bolt belay in an alcove, to follow 6 U bolts via great moves to an easy slab. Belay on gear here and finish up either of the Silent routes.</climb>
  <climb id="89" name="Silent Running" length="25m" grade="23" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Dec 2010." number="10." stars="*" extra="5Þ">From the very top of the stack abseil eastwards 30m to busy ledges. Climb a straightforward hand crack to a sharp layback arete with 5 U bolts.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="12">These next routes are on the east face. They can be identified by first locating Mithras, a strong roof bound crack lined with bolted routes on either side. These can be accessed via abseil from the bolts located on the buttress between Kodak Tart and Fishcake.</text>
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  <climb grade="18" length="25m" name="Ocean Cruiser" number="11." stars="" id="13" fa="K.Bischoff, R.McMahon, 1980.">The cracks to the left of the smooth white face which faces east. Climb easily up the wide cracks to gain the chimney. Up this and traverse awkwardly right at its top to finish (there is a variant finish out left by Stephenson and Deka, 1989).</climb>
  <climb id="95" stars="" extra="" number="12." name="Open Project" length="20m" grade="31-32" fa="na">The immaculate face which the abseil line take you down. Logged hear in the hope that it will catch someone attention and they'll climb it.</climb>
  <climb grade="17" length="30m" name="Lady Chatterley&apos;s Liver" number="13." stars="" id="14" fa="Ben Maddison, John Fantini, 1980.">The leaning offwidth corner immediately to the right of the smooth white face.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="28" length="15m" name="Holiday in Bulimia" number="14." stars="" id="15" fa="Dave Jones, Gordon Poultney, Feb 1995.">Up broken seam past 3 bolt runners two lines left of Mithras. The route can apparently be climbed at grade 25 by using the lefthand arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="3Þ" grade="23" length="15m" name="Of Jellyfish and Men" number="15." stars="**" id="16" fa="E.Peacock, S.Ford, C.Reid, Dec 1991.">The face route immediately left of Mithras with 3 carrot bolts, thoughtful and tricky slab face climbing. The route starts in the middle of the sub-buttress then heads right to the first bolt. Bolts are a bit weirdly placed, pre-equipping them is a good idea.</climb>
  <climb grade="17" length="20m" name="Mithras" number="16." stars="***" id="17" fa="R.McMahon, K.Lockwood, I.Thomas, 1980." extra="">The classic corner off the main ledge, pass roof on left.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Febrifuge" number="17." stars="**" id="18" fa="E.Peacock, S.Ford, Dec 1991.">The face right of Mithras. A small camming device protects the bottom moves, followed by 2 bolts then more natural pro. Quite exciting pulling through the roof.</climb>
  <climb grade="22" length="15m" name="White Sail" number="18." stars="**" id="19" fa="Simon Parsons, Nick Deka, Phil Bigg, 1981." extra="">The line on the left hand side of the north face, which is around the corner to the right of Febrifuge. Up a very awkward, slightly overhanging thin knucklecrack. Straight up this to easier ground and a classic layback flake.</climb>
  <climb grade="22" length="15m" name="Eskimo Sun Park" number="19." stars="**" id="20" fa="Simon Parsons, Phil Bigg, Doug Fife, 1982." extra="">The crack on the right hand side of the face. A hand crack with a small bulge at one third height. Strenuous and flared. Climb straight up the crack. The crux involves a layaway at the bulge.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="20m" name="In League with the Devil" number="20." stars="***" id="21" fa="Nick Hancock, Andrew Bissett, Jul 2000.">Nick had to strike a deal with a daeity to get a belay and second for this climb. From the end of the ledge (a few meters right of Eskimo Sun Park) hand traverse right for a few meters to enter the bottomless crack. Follow this up past an overlap and into a corner beside a roof. After sneaking a rest head out right past the roof and snatch for the jug. Mantle onto the jug, take a few breaths and proceed up the pleasant wall to finish. A fine, strenuous route with excellent protection (000-3 friend, no wires needed).</climb>
  <text class="heading3" guide.action="submit" guide.id="80" guide.page="0" guide.type="text" id="22">White Stack - Lower Tier</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="23">These routes are on the lower tier.</text>
  <climb grade="20" length="20m" name="Passing Water" number="21." stars="" id="24" fa="Robert McMahon, John Fisher, Mar 1995.">The crack rising fron the sea, reached by abseiling from the south end of the lower platform (about 10m south of Holiday in Bulimia) to a pedestal in calm conditions.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="25">The next three climbs are on a wall starting at sea-level (below a region between 5-15m north of the base of Holiday in Bulimia).</text>
  <climb grade="19" length="20m" name="The Path of Righteousness" number="22." stars="*" id="26" fa="Roger Parkyn, Nick Hancock, Aug 2002.">The straight hand-crack starting from a hanging belay at water level. Abseil in.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" guide.action="submit" guide.id="26" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="20m" name="Jesus is My Belay Bunny" number="23." stars="**" id="27" fa="Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Aug 2002.">On the lowest tier directly below Of Jellyfish and Men, climb the crack starting above a sea-washed triangular stance, to a tricky swing left to gain the continuation up The Path of Righteousness.</climb>
  <climb grade="23" length="20m" name="God Ain&apos;t Watching" number="24." stars="*" id="28" fa="Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Aug 2002.">The flaring crack a few metres right leads to bold moves (the route was rap inspected and top roped before the first ascent) up left to a big jug and creative protection. Make a balancy step up to gain a flake and an easier finish.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="29">The next climbs are also on the lower tier but are further north.</text>
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  <climb grade="18" length="8m" name="Noddy&apos;s Wave" number="25." stars="" id="30" fa="K.Lockwood, I.Thomas, R.McMahon, 1980.">Directly below Eskimo Sun Park.</climb>
  <climb id="94" number="26." name="The Dark Side" length="30m" grade="27" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Dec 2010." stars="***" extra="Þ">This climb ascends the high hanging wall on the north west tip of the stack. Abseil from below Return to Normality, to belay on a ledge a few metres above the boulder beach. Step across the gap and climb a groove to a short traverse right. Move up past a glued carrot bolt to a break, then swing left to a jug. Follow the hard sequency wall above past 3 more glued carrots and then layback cracks leading to the top. Friends from 1 to 3.5, with triples in the smaller sizes, and 4 brackets.</climb>
  <climb grade="19" length="35m" name="Losing Acuity" number="27." stars="" id="31" fa="Ben Maddison, John Fantini, 1980.">The gritty awkward offwidth corner in the cleft around the corner to the right. Access by abseil.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="32">Island Zawn</text>
  <text class="text" id="33">The usual access is by abseil (22m). Head out on the promontory between Big Zawn and Island Zawn, on the Island side is a large solid looking tree 10 m down from the crest. Please put a sling and karabiner round the tree, you can recover it when you climb out. To get to Harpic bliss and POTAI you walk to the very end of this promontory and abseil in off u-bolt anchor to ledge above sea.</text>
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  <climb extra="" grade="19" length=" 20m" name="I&apos;m Stuck and I Can&apos;t Get Out " number="28." stars="" id="34" fa="Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997">Climb the gaping off width on the southern side of Island Zawn.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" guide.action="submit" guide.id="35" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="12m" name="Ilsa" number="29." stars="" id="36" fa="B. and P. Baxter, Jul 2002.">On the south side of the island. At sealevel, were the big smooth boulders start, is a narrow buttress with aplite rock for the first few moves. Iisa goes up the center. A little gem.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="37">These next few routes are on the east and north faces of the island. Walk around the south side of the island to them.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="15m" name="Bloody Obvious" number="30." stars="*" id="35" fa="Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997.">Climb the clean crack on the left hand side of the east face.</climb>
  <climb grade="15" length="13m" name="Kepler" number="31." stars="" id="38" fa="Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.">Finishes on the obvious orange slab on the front left hand side of the Island Zawn buttress. Climb the short steep crack which continues up through the orange slab.</climb>
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      <climb>39</climb>
      <climb>40</climb>
      <climb>41</climb>
      <climb>42</climb>
      <climb>43</climb>
      <climb>44</climb>
      <climb>45</climb>
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  <climb grade="16" length="20m" name="Punctam Equans" number="32." stars="" id="39" fa="R.McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.">On the left of the east face as for Kepler. Climb a short line for 4m to gain the left side of the roof, traverse right under the roof and onto the large ledge. Finish by climbing the corner crack at the back of the ledge. Beware of the loose hold on the traverse.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="20m" name="Simplistic View" number="33." stars="" id="40" fa="Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997">Climb the right-angled groove on the arête to the left of 'Boris'.</climb>
  <climb grade="18" length="20m" name="Boris" number="34." stars="**" id="41" fa="B.Yeltsin, 1980.">The very clean short corner in the middle of the buttress. Laying away and jamming onto the large ledge. Finish up Punctam Equans.</climb>
  <climb grade="18" length="20m" name="Astronomia Nova" number="35." stars="*" id="42" fa="R.McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.">Halfway between the corner and the edge of the buttress. Up a short left leaning corner and straight up the steep face and shallow corner crack above to a step right and then up an easy crack back to the left to finish.</climb>
  <climb grade="15" length="20m" name="Kopernigk" number="36." stars="" id="43" fa="Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.">The obvious line just to the right of Astronomia Nova. Up the crack in the corner up a series of steps. This line and Astronomia Nova have a common last 5m.</climb>
  <climb grade="22" length="20m" name="Swash" number="37." stars="*" id="44" fa="Simon Parsons, Phil Bigg, Doug Fife, 1982.">Around the corner to the right of the east face is a very impressive corner which starts in the sea.</climb>
  <climb grade="17" length="20m" name="Aqua Phobia" number="38." stars="*" id="45">Right of Swash.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="46">There are two routes on the short face further to the right. They are short and can be reached by abseiling or by coming in from the north.</text>
  <climb grade="20" length="16m" name="Solar Plexus" number="39." stars="" id="47" fa="B.Maddison, R.McMahon, C.Rathbone, 1981.">Start in the wee chasm 6m left of the northernmost part of the island. Massive step across from sloping buttress then up diagonal left leaning crack.</climb>
  <climb grade="14" length="15m" name="Aristarchus" number="40." stars="" id="48" fa="Robert McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.">Just below and in front of the boulder at the right hand extremity of the island cliff.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="49">There are a number of climbs in Island Zawn behind the island and around towards the base of White Stack. The next two routes are on the stepped buttress just right of the gulch separating White Stack. They make nice exit routes after climbing on the island.</text>
  <climb grade="14" length="25m" name="Boanthropy" number="41." stars="" id="50" fa="Robert McMahon, 1980.">The strong corner 5m right of the deep cleft topped by piled rubble.</climb>
  <climb grade="14" length="25m" name="Lycanthropy" number="42." stars="" id="51" fa="Robert McMahon, 1980.">Finishes up the prow 4m right of Boanthropy.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="52">High on the first piece of solid rock to the right of this buttress there is the following diagonal line.</text>
  <climb grade="18" length="15m" name="Narcolepsy" number="43." stars="*" id="53" fa="John Fantini, Ben Maddison, 1980." extra="">Climb the strong leftwards diagonal up to the bulging crack, and up this to the top.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="54">On the wall directly facing the back of the island are the following climbs:</text>
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      <climb>53</climb>
      <climb>55</climb>
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  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="35m" name="Flying V" number="44." stars="" id="55" fa="Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997">Climb the obvious arête behind Island Zawn, the arête left of 'A Nice day for Kicking Goals'.</climb>
  <climb grade="16" length="25m" name="A Nice Day for Kicking Goals" number="45." stars="" id="56" fa="Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979.">Downhill and 25m right of Narcolepsy on the left side of a wide broken face. Stay a metre or two right of the arete and a metre or two left of the break in the face.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="25m" name="Loose Possums" number="46." stars="" id="57" fa="Dave Gardner, A.Holden, Jul 1990.">Two metres right of ANDFKG is a break in the face. Loose Possums starts in the crack a further 2 metres right. Avoid the gully high up by climbing the rib on the right. Worthless.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Iona" number="47." stars="" id="58" fa="B Baxter and H Smith, May 2008.">Two metres right of Loose Possums is another crack. Up this, then at one third's height take the thin right trending crack to the top.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="59">The next climbs are on the buttress that starts level with the northern end of the island.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="40m" name="IQ Test" number="48." stars="" id="60" fa="Robert McMahon, P.Cover, 1980.">The basis of this climb is a fine curving off-width corner high up on the buttress.Start on the boulders at the base of the cliff below the crack. Ascend short steep face trending right to gain the corner and straight up this and then traverse off left to a small saddle with a tree to finish. Better than it looks and a good way to escape from Island Zawn.</climb>
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      <climb>53</climb>
      <climb>61</climb>
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  <climb grade="18" length="35m" name="Pipeline" number="49." stars="" id="61" fa="R.McMahon, N.Smith, S.Moon, 1981.">Takes a line several metres to the right of IQ Test following a crack up a series of neatly overhanging faces. A dark imposing line.</climb>
  <climb grade="14" length="50m" name="Wavelength" number="50." stars="" id="62" fa="N.Deka, R.McMahon, M.Ling, N.Smith, 1981.">To the right of Pipeline is a beautiful traverse right takes you around the cliffs at about 8 to 10m above sealevel. Just traverse the most likely line. Fun.</climb>
  <text id="115" class="heading1">Outer Zawn</text>
  <text id="116" class="text">This is the promontory that protrudes east between Big Zawn and Island Zawn. At the end of this promontory is a large clean wall high up with a zig zag groove on its right (HB) and a bottomless crack on its left. Access is facilitated by abseiling from the u anchors to the sloping terrace 10m above the sea.</text>
  <image id="113" src="Harpic bliss.jpg" height="1368" legend="true">
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      <climb>100</climb>
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  <climb id="100" stars="*" extra="" number="51." name="Harpic Bliss" length="20m" grade="18" fa="Marcel and Hamish Jackson and Steve Bray, late nineties.">On the east face, around the blocky arete right of Pipeline. Beautiful rock. The stricking narrow off-width up the middle of the face. One the best off-widths at freycinet.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="20m" name="Planet of the Ape Index" number="52." stars="**" id="66" fa="Nick Hancock and a woefully short Andrew Bissett, Aug 2001.">Climb the crack to the right of the wall to a small ledge. From here head out left past three bolts. Eventually the arête is reached after a series of moves very challenging to people with a reach of less than 190cm (may be slightly easier if you've more reach or impossible if you've less). Continue up arete to the top. Gear is three u-bolts and some medium cams.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="63">Big Zawn</text>
  <text class="description" id="64">Access to the start of these climbs is normally by traversing in from sealevel from the ramp at the base of Lassie's Wall, but it isn't hard to descend at the other end.</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="67">The next few climbs are on the south side of Big Zawn. They generally face north. The descriptions start at the detatched buttress and work to the right towards the back of the Zawn.</text>
  <climb grade="18" length="10m" name="Amanuensis" number="53." stars="" id="68" fa="Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1977.">On the detatched pillar opposite Afternoon Shift. Ascend to the top of pillar. Solo down on the sea side of the pillar (crux).</climb>
  <climb grade="17" length="15m" name="Afternoon Shift" number="54." stars="" id="69" fa="Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.">The widening crack right opposite the back of the detatched pillar. Unpleasant.</climb>
  <climb grade="17" length="20m" name="Bradwalda" number="55." stars="" id="70" fa="Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1976.">Start at the crack just right of the aplite seam on the semi-detatched buttress about 25m right of the detatched buttress. Climb straight up the crack to the top. There is an exciting grade 18 variant which moves right at two thirds height.</climb>
  <climb grade="15" length="20m" name="Helios" number="56." stars="" id="71" fa="Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1976.">The obvious line just above the finish of Bradwalda.</climb>
  <climb grade="18" length="20m" name="Dien Bien Phu" number="57." stars="" id="72" fa="Garn Cooper, Robert McMahon, Jul 1990.">Start 25m up the hill to the left of the finish of Bradwalda at the foot of the steep handcrack. Climb through the bulge and up the crack above. When this stops climb the slab above.</climb>
  <climb grade="18" length="15m" name="Moby Dick" number="58." stars="" id="73" fa="Robert McMahon, K.Bischoff, 1980.">A variant start to Waterline. The continuation of the diagonal line down to the left.</climb>
  <climb grade="16" length="50m" name="Waterline" number="59." stars="" id="74" fa="Robert McMahon, Ben Maddison, 1980.">Located on the left hand end of the wall that faces the land. The line is indicated by a steep slab near the top of the cliff which is split by a good looking crack. Start directly below this, and wander up to gain the crack which is pleasant enough but too short to really compensate for the rest of the climb.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="75">The next few routes are on the other side of the Zawn and generally face southeast.</text>
  <climb grade="18" length="30m" name="Old Snossy" number="60." stars="" id="76" fa="Ben Maddison, Robert Mcahon, 1979.">Start 5m left of Penetration and 10m left of the back of the zawn, under the overhanging blocks. Up to green sling at 10m then up runout slab above.</climb>
  <climb grade="17" length="30m" name="Penetration" number="61." stars="" id="77" fa="Robert McMahon, Jim Duff, 1980.">Deep in the gulch. The prow left of Crime of Passion.</climb>
  <climb grade="20" length="50m" name="Crimes of Passion" number="62." stars="" id="78" fa="Ben Maddison, S.Baker, 1980.">Located on the opposite wall to Waterline, the back wall of the zawn. It takes the line through the right hand end of the roof at half height. The rock is a bit woeful.</climb>
  <climb grade="23" length="30m" name="True, Like Ice, Like Fire" number="63." stars="" id="79" fa="Robert McMahon, 1989.">As you traverse into Big Zawn you cross a narrow gap where the sea washes in, to get onto a large boulder. This climb starts from the top of the boulder. The pitons used as protection on the first ascent are no longer present. Bridge and face climb up the thin crack and continue up the ever steepening wall and into a small V-ledge and then up a couple of steps to finish.</climb>
  <climb grade="21" length="20m" name="Fast lane" number="64." stars="" id="80" fa="Nick Deka, Di Batten, Doug Bruce, Pete Steane, 1989.">Just right of the gap. Take the right hand of two possible cracks to gain the overhanging hand cracks. Up this and the face above on the left to finish.</climb>
  <climb grade="16" length="20m" name="Lover&apos;s Hand" number="65." stars="" id="81" fa="Robert McMahon, Jim Duff, 1980.">The huge gulch. Nice at the top.</climb>
  <climb grade="17" length="15m" name="Fallen Angel" number="66." stars="" id="82" fa="Roxanne Wells, Nick Deka, Robert McMahon, 1989.">A few metres right of Fast Lane. Up the face and crack on the left and then straight up the crack and over some choss to finish.</climb>
</guide>