Page History

<guide guidestarsversion="***3" pagesize="500" versionguidestars="3***">
  <header accessname="Access is by following The Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay for 35 minutes until a distinct col is reached below the slabs leading up to Wombat Crags.  From here head left and down, below a steep wall, then head south to above the cliff.  There is a steep scramble at the far right hand side and abseil anchors above some of the right hand climbs.  Access along the foot of the crag is straightforward except for a 30 meter section left from Ferret on a Leash, where it is necessary to rope up as the slabs below the wall shelve steeply to the sea over 70 meters below. Routes are described R to L, as you come to them." acknowledgement="by Jake Bresnehan and Nick Hancock." history="The cliff now known as the Star Factory was first climbed on by the Jackson Brothers in 1994, when they wandered up The Star Factory" id="1" walk="1 hour" sun="Morning sun" rock="Immaculate water polished orange granite, generally slightly overhanging, 30m high and 500m long, mostly sport routes." intro="The Star Factory is unique in Australian climbing in that it has a large number of very high quality climbs from 21 to 32 on good granite that is highly featured with holds of all shapes and sizes, in addition to the more usual cracks. The Star Factory is now the best (hard) sport crag in Tassie and arguably one of the best in Australia. All the bolted sport climbs have double bolt belays at the top, from which it is advised to lower off as there is loose gravel above the top of the cliff. Winter days are the best, climbing in the sun with a nice southerly wind. You can climb in the summer but is best after about 2pm. The projects are all closed, but feel free to put in the blood, sweat and tears to put your own up. Be careful on the slabs at the base of the routes. If you stuff up, you probably won&apos;t wake up again. In the wet they are even worse!" history="The cliff now known as the Star Factory was first climbed on by the Jackson Brothers in 1994, when they wandered up a modest corner towards the left end of the wall. They returned in early 2002 to finish off their previous climb to create The Adjuster (21), and added another, Glass Tier (22). These were the only routes on the cliff until Nick Hancock re-discovered it in early 2003. He tried to keep it a secret and even managed to pick off a few of the best lines with Doug McConnell until the motor-mouth Jake Bresnehan got hold of the rumour and passed it on to Garry Phillips, who then marched up there and tore the place apart. Garry has put up about half the routes to date and is responsible for most of the hardest routes." introacknowledgement="The Star Factory is unique in Australian climbing in that it has a large number of very high quality climbs from 21 to 32 on good granite that is highly featured with holds of all shapes and sizes, in addition to the more usual cracks. The Star Factory is now the best (hard) sport crag in Tassie and arguably one of the best in Australia. All the bolted sport climbs have double bolt belays at the top, from which it is advised to lower off as there is loose gravel above the top of the cliff. Winter days are the best, climbing in the sun with a nice southerly wind. You can climb in the summer but is best after about 2pm. The projects are all closed, but feel free to put in the blood, sweat and tears to put your own up. Be careful on the slabs at the base of the routes. If you stuff up, you probably won&apos;t wake up again. In the wet they are even worse!" name="The Star Factory" rock="Immaculate water polished orange granite, generally slightly overhanging, 30m high and 500m long, mostly sport routes." sun="Morning sun" walk="1 hour" id="1"by Jake Bresnehan and Nick Hancock." access="Access is by following The Skyline Traverse from Sleepy Bay for 35 minutes until a distinct col is reached below the slabs leading up to Wombat Crags.  From here head left and down, below a steep wall, then head south to above the cliff.  There is a steep scramble at the far right hand side and abseil anchors above some of the right hand climbs.  Access along the foot of the crag is straightforward except for a 30 meter section left from Ferret on a Leash, where it is necessary to rope up as the slabs below the wall shelve steeply to the sea over 70 meters below. Routes are described R to L, as you come to them."/>
  <gps id="2">
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    <point code="CBH410 pid="1" latitude="-42.14663" longitude="148.32235" description="Star Factory (top near cave)" easting="609263" height="161" northing="5333097" zone="55G" latitudeheight="-42.14663161" longitudecode="148.32235" pid="1"CBH410"/>
    <point code="CBH420pid="2" latitude="-42.14652" longitude="148.32230" description="Star Factory (rap anchors above Pot Bellied Whale)" easting="609259" height="156" northing="5333109" zone="55G" latitudeheight="-42.14652156" longitudecode="148.32230" pid="2"CBH420"/>
    <point code="CBH430 pid="3" latitude="-42.14732" longitude="148.32298" description="Star Factory (rap anchors above Entre)" easting="609314" height="116" northing="5333019" zone="55G" latitudeheight="-42.14732116" longitudecode="148.32298" pid="3"CBH430"/>
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  <text id="81" class="heading2">The Star Factory</text>
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    <legend>6</legend>
    <legend>7</legend>
    <legend>8</legend>
  </image>
  <climb extraname="ÞAccess Route" gradeid="206" lengthstars="" nameextra="Access RouteÞ" number="a1." starslength="" idgrade="620" fa="Al Williams 2004">Climbs to the ledge where Chris the Porn King starts.</climb>
  <climb extraname="6ÞChris the Porn King" gradeid="247" lengthstars="15m*" nameextra="Chris the Porn King6Þ" number="a2." starslength="*15m" idgrade="724" fa="Garry Philips 2003.">Climb the Access route till the ledge. Double bolt belay. Climb the top pitch up via some cool moves on not the best quality rock. Not a bad little route. Harder if you are short.</climb>
  <climb extraname="(NaturalNaturally Gear)Blond" gradeid="238" lengthstars="15m" nameextra="Naturally(Natural BlondGear)" number="a3." starslength="15m" idgrade="823" fa="Al Williams 2004.">Follow the crack L of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head R to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the double bolt belay.</climb>
  <climb name="Total Eclipse of the Heart" id="82" numberstars="a4***" nameextra=""Total Eclipse of the Heart number="a4" length="20m" grade="27" fa="Alex Lewis Jul 2010" stars="***" extra="">The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.</climb>
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      <climb>82</climb>
      <climb>10</climb>
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  <climb extraname="6ÞThe Reason" gradeid="2610" lengthstars="20m***" nameextra="The Reason6Þ" number="b1." starslength="***20m" idgrade="1026" fa="Doug McConnell 2003.">Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked striking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory.</climb>
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    <legend>12</legend>
    <legend>13</legend>
    <legend>14</legend>
    <legend>15</legend>
    <legend>16</legend>
    <legend>17</legend>
    <legend>19</legend>
    <legend>20</legend>
    <legend>21</legend>
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  <climb extraname="10ÞPot Bellied Whale" gradeid="2512" lengthstars="25m*" nameextra="Pot Bellied Whale10Þ" number="c1." starslength="*25m" idgrade="1225" fa="Nick Hancock 2003.">Layback the pillar. Up the arête. Not that good.</climb>
  <climb extraname="8ÞSoft Option" gradeid="28/2913" lengthstars="20m*" nameextra="Soft Option8Þ" number="c2." starslength="*20m" idgrade="1328/29" fa="Garry Phillips 2004.">Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney.</climb>
  <climb extraname="8ÞStreet Fighter" gradeid="2814" guide.actionstars="submit**" guide.idextra="138Þ" guide.pagenumber="0c3." guide.typelength="climb20m" lengthgrade="20m28" namefa="Street FighterGarry Phillips 2003." numberguide.type="c3.climb" starsguide.page="**0" guide.id="1413" faguide.action="Garry Phillips 2003.submit">Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Street Fighter 3" gradeid="3215" lengthstars="20m*" nameextra="Street Fighter 3" number="c4." starslength="*20m" idgrade="1532" fa="Steve Townshend March, 2014">Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞStreet Fighter 2" gradeid="2916" lengthstars="20m**" nameextra="Street Fighter 2Þ" number="c5." starslength="**20m" idgrade="1629" fa="Jake Bresnehan 2004.">Climb the first 3 bolts of Antimatter then break R and up to join Street Fighter. A bit sharp, and just adds a little bit. Probably grade 26 to join Street Fighter.</climb>
  <climb extraname="10ÞAntimatter" gradeid="2317" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="1610Þ" guide.pagenumber="0c6." guide.typelength="climb25m" lengthgrade="25m23" namefa="AntimatterDoug McConnell 2003." numberguide.type="c6.climb" starsguide.page="***" 0" guide.id="1716" faguide.action="Doug McConnell 2003.submit">A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24.</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞMatter of Fact" gradeid="25/618" lengthstars="*" nameextra="Matter of FactÞ" number="" starslength="*" idgrade="1825/6" fa="Garry Phillips 2007.">For when you get bored of Antimatter. At the roof of Antimatter head L past 1 bolt via some moves.</climb>
  <climb extraname="11ÞDecafe" gradeid="2619" lengthstars="28m**" nameextra="Decafe11Þ" number="c7." starslength="**28m" idgrade="1926" fa="Garry Phillips 2006.">Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.</climb>
  <climb extraname="12ÞPower Of The Percolator" gradeid="2820" lengthstars="28m***" nameextra="Power Of The Percolator12Þ" number="c8." starslength="***28m" idgrade="2028" fa="Garry Phillips 2003.">This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do!</climb>
  <climb extraname="9ÞGrand Slam" gradeid="2921" lengthstars="25m*" nameextra="Grand Slam9Þ" number="c9." starslength="*25m" idgrade="2129" fa="Garry Phillips 2003.">Start as for Power of the Percolator but head L. Lowers off the 2nd last bolt and needs to be extended.</climb>
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    <legend>24</legend>
    <legend>25</legend>
    <legend>26</legend>
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  <climb extraname="2B + Natural GearJuicebox" gradeid="2223" lengthstars="20m" nameextra="Juicebox2B + Natural Gear" number="" starslength="20m" idgrade="2322" fa="S.Young Apr 2009">The obvious corner to the Right of Kim's Project. Up past two bolts into the corner. Up this to the lower-off for Kim's Project. Gear from tips to #1 Camalot.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Kim&apos;s Project" gradeid="24" lengthstars="" nameextra="Kim&apos;s Project" number="d1." starslength="" idgrade="24">Up the slab. Looks classic. All Kim has to do is get out of his office and climb it. Hopefully the bolts are ok!</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞPromised Land" gradeid="2425" lengthstars="20m**" nameextra="Promised LandÞ" number="d2." starslength="**20m" idgrade="2524" fa="Garry Phillips 2006.">Climb Balance of Evil and break R across to join Kim's project. A bit cheeky but a good route.</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞBalance of Evil" gradeid="2526" lengthstars="25m**" nameextra="Balance of EvilÞ" number="d3." starslength="**25m" idgrade="2625" fa="Norm Selby 2003">A bit tricky down low. Up the R facing corner to the top.</climb>
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    <legend>
      <climb>28</climb>
      <climb>30</climb>
      <climb>92</climb>
      <climb>31</climb>
      <climb>32</climb>
      <climb>33</climb>
      <climb>34</climb>
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  <climb name="The Grand Adjudicator"  <climbid="28" stars="***" extra="(Natural Gear + lower off)" grade="27" length="25m" name="The Grand Adjudicator" number="e1." starslength="***25m" idgrade="2827" fa="Nick Hancock 2004.">10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.</climb>
  <climb extraname="(Natural Gear)The Glass Tier" gradeid="2229" lengthstars="25m**" nameextra="The Glass Tier(Natural Gear)" number="" starslength="**25m" idgrade="2922" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002.">Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. The upper section is reasonably sustained.</climb>
  <climb extraname="The Glass Tier Direct Start" gradeid="30" lengthstars=" " nameextra="The Glass Tier Direct Start" number="e2. " starslength=" " idgrade="30" fa="Garry Phillips"/>
  <climb name="Cockhead Crack" id="92" stars="**" extra="" number="" name="Cockhead Crack" length="" grade="31?" fa="Sonnie Trotter, Feb 2016. FFA ??">Still awaiting a ground up ascent. Sonnie Trotter pinkpointed it on Feb 2015 with fixed gear and pre-clipped the first 4 pieces. A bold and striking line that will require some committing moves in the "ground fall zone" to complete this classic test piece.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Wizard Of The World" gradeid="??31" lengthstars=" " nameextra="Wizard Of The World" number="e3. " starslength=" " idgrade="31??" fa="">Wizard Of Oz Direct Start, Open Project, proper hard....</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞWizard Of Oz" gradeid="32" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="30Þ" guide.pagenumber="0e4." guide.typelength="climb27m" lengthgrade="27m32" namefa="WizardJake OfBresnehan Oz2006." numberguide.type="e4.climb" starsguide.page="***0" guide.id="3230" faguide.action="Jake Bresnehan 2006.submit">Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route.</climb>
  <climb extraname="11ÞFerret On A Leash" gradeid="2733" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="3111Þ" guide.pagenumber="0e5." guide.typelength="climb25m" lengthgrade="25m27" namefa="FerretNick On A LeashHancock 2003." numberguide.type="e5.climb" starsguide.page="***0" guide.id="3331" faguide.action="Nick Hancock 2003.submit">Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Garry&apos;s Amazing Project" gradeid="34" lengthstars=" " nameextra="Garry&apos;s Amazing Project" number="e6. " starslength=" " idgrade="34" fa=""/>
  <text id="89" class="heading3">The Face of Business</text>
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    <legend>36</legend>
    <legend>37</legend>
    <legend>38</legend>
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  <climb extraname="10ÞThe Tooth Fairy" gradeid="3236" guide.actionstars="submit**" guide.idextra="3410Þ" guide.pagenumber="0f1." guide.typelength="climb25m" lengthgrade="25m32" namefa="TheKim ToothRobinson Fairy2004." numberguide.type="f1.climb" starsguide.page="**0" guide.id="3634" faguide.action="Kim Robinson 2004.submit">Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Þ" grade="31Fairy Floss" guide.actionid="submit37" guide.idstars="35**" guide.pageextra="0Þ" guide.typenumber="climbf2." length="25m" namegrade="Fairy Floss31" numberfa="f2Garry Phillips 2006." starsguide.type="**climb" idguide.page="370" faguide.id="35"Garry Phillips 2006guide.action="submit">Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out L past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Business Man Project" gradeid="38" lengthstars=" " nameextra="Business Man Project" number="f3. " starslength=" " idgrade="38" fa="">Open Project</climb>
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    <legend>40</legend>
    <legend>41</legend>
    <legend>42</legend>
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  <climb extraname="ÞEntree" gradeid="2940" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="38Þ" guide.pagenumber="0" guide.type="climbg1." length="25m" namegrade="Entree29" numberfa="g1Garry Phillips 2004." starsguide.type="***climb" idguide.page="400" faguide.id="Garry Phillips 2004.38" guide.action="submit">Head up easy ground to half height. Head R and up past a rad punch to the biggest under cling in Tassie. Squirm up the groove to reach the belay. Super classic.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞCome Get Me" gradeid="3041" guide.actionstars="submit**" guide.idextra="39Þ" guide.pagenumber="0g2." guide.typelength="climb25m" lengthgrade="25m30" namefa="ComeGarry GetPhillips Me2005." numberguide.type="g2.climb" starsguide.page="**0" guide.id="4139" faguide.action="Garry Phillips 2005.submit">Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out L to reach the chains. Come Get Me!</climb>
  <climb extraname="8ÞThe Supposed Golden Path" gradeid="2742" guide.actionstars="submit**" guide.idextra="408Þ" guide.pagenumber="0g3." guide.typelength="climb25m" lengthgrade="25m27" namefa="TheNick Supposed Golden PathHancock 2003." numberguide.type="g3.climb" starsguide.page="**0" guide.id="4240" faguide.action="Nick Hancock 2003.submit">The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.</climb>
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    <legend>44</legend>
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  <climb extraname="5Þ" grade="27Star Wars" guide.actionid="submit44" guide.idstars="42***" guide.pageextra="05Þ" guide.typenumber="climbh1." length="25m" namegrade="Star Wars27" numberfa="h1Doug McConnell." starsguide.type="***climb" idguide.page="440" faguide.id="42"Doug McConnellguide.action="submit">This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer.</climb>
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    <legend>46</legend>
    <legend>47</legend>
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  <climb name="Fusion" id="78" stars="" extra="4Þ" length="14m" namegrade="Fusion19" fa="Will Bartlett &amp; Sam Peyr, May 2010" grade="19" length="14m" stars="" extra="4Þ">The sharp arête right of Maxwell's Demon. Start bridging on slab and wall, then up slighty right of arête. Crimpy.   </climb>
  <climb extraname="7Þ + lower offMaxwell&apos;s Demon" gradeid="2846" lengthstars=" 20m***" nameextra="Maxwell&apos;s Demon7Þ + lower off" number="i1. " starslength="*** 20m" idgrade="4628" fa="Doug McConnell, Aug 2010">Up, traverse R via mono(!), up. Stand on top to finish. Preclip the 2nd bolt if you like your ankles as they are.</climb>
  <climb extraname="8ÞAstro Boy" gradeid="3047" lengthstars="20m***" nameextra="Astro Boy8Þ" number="i2." starslength="***20m" idgrade="4730" fa="Al Williams, Jun 2005.">Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞBack Yard Surgery" gradeid="2948" lengthstars="20m***" nameextra="Back Yard SurgeryÞ" number="" starslength="***20m" idgrade="4829" fa="G. Phillips, Sep 2008.">The line 4m L of Astro Boy. V6 start, then awesome climbing.</climb>
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  <climb extraname="ÞSimply The Best" gradeid="2850" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="47Þ" guide.pagenumber="0j1." guide.typelength="climb20m" lengthgrade="20m28" namefa="Simply The BestGarry Phillips." numberguide.type="j1.climb" starsguide.page="***0" guide.id="5047" faguide.action="Garry Phillips.submit">The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up.</climb>
  <climb name="Nemesis" id="96" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="" name="Nemesis" length="" grade="27/28" fa="Garry Phillips April 2017  ">Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris. Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2 camalot.</climb>
  <climb id="83" name="Project - Garry Garry" id="83" stars="" extra="" number="" length="" grade="" fa="">U's heading up and right from Simply the Best overlap.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Madness Project" gradeid="51" lengthstars=" " nameextra="Madness Project" number="j2. " starslength=" " idgrade="51">Garry's project heading up and left from Simply the Best overlap. Closed.</climb>
  <climb name="Hubris" id="91" stars="***" extra="" number="" name="Hubris" length="30m" grade="29" fa="Crazy John Fischer, April 03 2014">Start up the offwidth roof L of Simply the Best. Up the line to the higher of the two traversing cracks via some committing moves. Traverse R climbing past Simply The Best. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the, dare I say it, DIABOLICAL crux sequence. Continue up the line. The climb finishes when you are standing on top of the cliff. You need a 5 friend and 4 camalot for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.</climb>
  <climb name="Augmentium" id="90" stars="***" extra="" number="" name="Augmentium" length="30m" grade="29" fa="Andrew (Squib) Cubbon 4th June 2014">Superb and safe climbing up the obvious crack line left of Simply The Best. Start as for the brilliant looking route Hubris, but instead of traversing right, continue straight up, with funky moves through the technical crux. Blast up the sustained crack above, then left of the bush and up the easy, pleasant corner to the top. &lt;br/&gt;Ascent was done after multiple top-rope/self belay sessions. All gear was placed on the lead and that is what it is graded for. The gear ranges from black &amp; blue Aliens to 4.5 Camelot and various wires. An ascent done in better style (ie ground up/on-sight etc) is totally possible as the gear is bomber.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Redline Project" gradeid="52" lengthstars=" " nameextra="Redline Project" number="j3. " starslength=" " idgrade="52" fa="">Open Project</climb>
  <image noPrintid="false53" src="turbohammer.jpg" widthheight="600801" idwidth="53600" legend="true" legendx="10" legendy="10" heightnoPrint="801false" printLayout="OneColumn">null
    <legend>54</legend>
    <legend>55</legend>
  </image>
  <climb extra="(Natural Gear)" grade="21" guide.action="submit" guide.id="51" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="36m" name="The Adjustername="The Adjuster" id="54" stars="**" extra="(Natural Gear)" number="k1." starslength="**36m" idgrade="5421" fa="1st pitch Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Aug 1994. 2nd Hamish Jackson, Toby Bown and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002." guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="51" guide.action="submit">The well-defined R facing corner system toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. Perfect position. 1. 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. 2.18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse R until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top.</climb>
  <climb extraname="6ÞTurbo Hammer" gradeid="2555" lengthstars="20m***" nameextra="Turbo Hammer6Þ" number="k2." starslength="***20m" idgrade="5525" fa="Garry Phillips Jul 2003.">Named after the one and only. Looks easy but! Climb up the radtastic left leaning flared crack, on some smears and a few more smears. Very good.</climb>
  <climb extraname="6ÞThe Final Solution" gradeid="2556" lengthstars="" nameextra="The Final Solution6Þ" number="" starslength="" idgrade="5625" fa="Al Williams Aug 2003.">Faceted blocky arête to same belay as Seal Launch.</climb>
  <climb extraname="7ÞSeal Launch" gradeid="2257" guide.actionstars="submit**" guide.idextra="547Þ" guide.pagenumber="0" guide.typelength="climb20m" lengthgrade="20m22" namefa="Seal Launch" number="" stars="**" id="57" fa="Al Williams Jul 2003.Al Williams Jul 2003." guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="54" guide.action="submit">Climb a dogleg groove just R of a distinct arête formation.</climb>
  <climb extraname="4ÞMinor Technicality" gradeid="2358" lengthstars="*" nameextra="Minor Technicality4Þ" number="" starslength="*" idgrade="5823" fa="Alan Williams, May 2005.">The arête and RH Face left of seal launch, delicate technical climbing mostly on the face past 3 FH lead to jugs past another FH to a DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraname="5ÞCheese Supreme" gradeid="2459" lengthstars="12m*" nameextra="Cheese Supreme5Þ" number="" starslength="*12m" idgrade="5924">Start just L of Technicality. Reachy moves in the thin seam to get off the ground lead to some big moves off big holds on immaculate rock. 5 bolts + lower-off. (This route goes straight up thin seam around the corner from Technicality, lower-off is off a small ledge at about the same height as Technicality).</climb>
  <text classid="Discussion60" guide.actionclass="submitDiscussion" guide.idtype="57text" guide.page="0" guide.typeid="text57" idguide.action="60submit">The following routes are on the flat slightly slabby face characterised by large (often loose) crystals, the rock quallity is not perfect but the unique large crystals make for interesting climbing.</text>
  <climb extraname="10ÞThe Great Gonzo" gradeid="2261" lengthstars="21m" nameextra="The Great Gonzo10Þ" number="" starslength="21m" idgrade="6122" fa="Doug McConnell ">Next route R of Holy Ghost. Up steep wall on good holds with tricky moves gaining slab. Up on big crystals to the top. 10 bolts + lower-off.</climb>
  <climb extraname="ÞThe Holy Ghost" gradeid="2462" lengthstars="25m*" nameextra="The Holy GhostÞ" number="" starslength="*25m" idgrade="6224" fa="Garry Phillips Jul 2003">The RH line of bolts with a reachy crux high up.</climb>
  <climb extraname="8ÞThe Son" gradeid="2163" lengthstars="25m*" nameextra="The Son8Þ" number="" starslength="*25m" idgrade="6321" fa="Doug McConnell Jul 2003.">The central line of bolts with a tricky slab finish.</climb>
  <climb extraname="8ÞThe Father" gradeid="2264" lengthstars="25m*" nameextra="The Father8Þ" number="" starslength="*25m" idgrade="6422" fa="Nick Hancock Jul 2003">Follow the LH line of bolts on the highly featured wall at the far LH end of the cliff.</climb>
  <text id="80" class="heading3">The Mens Gallery</text>
  <text classid="Discussion65" guide.actionclass="submitDiscussion" guide.idtype="62text" guide.page="0" guide.typeid="text62" idguide.action="65submit">The Men's Gallery is a little separate from the main Star Factory crag. To get to the Men's Gallery walk down the ramp at the far Lside of the Star Factory to a rap station. From here climb the short wall above via 4 bolts (grade 12) to the belay on the ledge (directly below Doug's Power Climb). To descend rap off the rings, but try to avoid letting the ropes fall down the crack below!</text>
  <climb extraname="9ÞRed Hill Town" gradeid="2666" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="639Þ" guide.pagenumber="0" guide.typelength="climb" lengthgrade="26" namefa="RedSimon Young HillJun Town2006." numberguide.type="climb" starsguide.page="***0" guide.id="6663" faguide.action="Simon Young Jun 2006.submit">The furthest line R on this bit of the wall. Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped.</climb>
  <climb id="84" name="Project - Garry" id="84">Middle line of bolts between Red Hill Town and Wild Winds. Closed.</climb>
  <climb name="Wild Winds" id="79" stars="***" nameextra="Wild WindsÞ" length="15m" grade="27" extra="Þ" fa="Garry Phillips 2005.">Starts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route.</climb>
  <climb extraname="6ÞDoug&apos;s Power Climb" gradeid="2667" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="646Þ" guide.pagenumber="0" guide.typelength="climb15m" lengthgrade="15m26" namefa="Doug&apos;s PowerMcConnell Climb2006" numberguide.type="climb" starsguide.page="***0" guide.id="6764" faguide.action="Doug McConnell 2006submit">Starts 4m left of Wild Winds. Up on good holds to hard boulder problem, then easily to the top. Excellent climbing.</climb>
  <text id="86">About 6m left of the normal belay is a DBB (FHs) on the sloping ledge</text>
  <climb id="85" name="Alex&apos;s Project - Closed" id="85">The line directly above the belay</climb>
  <climb id="87" name="Will&apos;s Project - closed" id="87">The line heading left from the belay</climb>
  <text classid="heading268" idclass="68heading2">The Gonk</text>
  <text classid="Discussion69" guide.actionclass="submitDiscussion" guide.idtype="66text" guide.page="0" guide.typeid="text66" idguide.action="69submit">This is a remote cliff in a great spot with beautiful lines. Access is by the Sea Level Traverse, or alternatively most people now approach from the Star Factory. Walk along the base of the Star Factory to the last routes and below the Mens Gallery. From the belay bolts used to get up to the Mens Gallery rap down to the slabs below and then make an easy scramble up and around the corner to The Gonk.</text>
  <climb extraname="Monty Python&apos;s Flying Circus" gradeid="2570" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="67" guide.pagenumber="0" guide.typelength="climb8m" lengthgrade="8m25" namefa="Monty Python&apos;s Flying Circus" number="" stars="***" id="70" fa="Nick Hancock Jan 2003.Nick Hancock Jan 2003." guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="67" guide.action="submit">The ultimate deep water solo? Climb the stunning flake on the west face of the huge boulder, at the southern end of the slabs below the Gonk.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Sporting Nightmare" gradeid="1571" guide.actionstars="submit" guide.idextra="68" guide.pagenumber="0" guide.typelength="climb70m" lengthgrade="70m15" namefa="Sporting Nightmare" number="" stars="" id="71" fa="Nick Hancock, Jake Bresnehan, Jan 2003.Nick Hancock, Jake Bresnehan, Jan 2003." guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="68" guide.action="submit">Provides an easy, but poorly protected, climb to the top of The Gonk. Scramble up L of the long blank wall L of Dumpster, to belay below a short chimney. 1. Climb the chimney behind the block and continue up the slab above to the scrub. Go slightly R through this to an easy crack leading to a tree belay on the saddle. 2. Follow the crack above, then slabs up R to a DBB. Abseil off via On the Highway to Hell, double ropes required on the saddle. 2. Follow the crack above, then slabs up R to a DBB. Abseil off via On the Highway to Hell, double ropes required.</climb>
  <climb name="Life of Brian" id="97" stars="*" extra="" number="" length="15m" grade="27" fa="Ken Palmer  Mar 2013">On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB.</climb>
  <climb extraname="Dumpster" gradeid="2072" guide.actionstars="submit**" guide.idextra="69" guide.page="0" guide.typenumber="climb" length="45m" namegrade="Dumpster20" numberfa="" stars="" id="72" fa="Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, Greg Child, Feb 1978."Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, Greg Child, Feb 1978." guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="69" guide.action="submit">Follow Sealevel Traverse until Flowstone Wall is first seen. This route is the short overhung corner. 1. 20m. Up corner to a large ledge. 2. 25m. Follow the flakes to other ledge. Abseil off.</climb>
  <climb extraname="" grade="24" guide.action="submit" guide.id="70" guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="45m" name="Where In The Stain Is SnednWhere In The Stain Is Snedn" id="73" stars="**" extra="" number="" starslength="**45m" idgrade="7324" fa="Pitch 1. L.Bottomley, Garn Cooper Tim Chappell, Sep 91. Pitch 2. Marcel Hamish Jackson Jul 1994. Jackson Jul 1994." guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="70" guide.action="submit">Pan-dimensional hyperclassic line and location. Not bad climbing either. The arête right of Dumpster. 1. 18m 20. Climb the arête to the foot of the corner. 2. 25m 24. Climb the incipient corner crack on small wires using bridging, layback, steep slab and even crack climbing. When the top of the corner can be reached, step L onto the face to clip the bolt, then tend L to the ledge. A bolt lower down protects the possibility of a hazardous fall over the arête.</climb>
  <climb extraname="On The Highway to Hell" gradeid="2574" guide.actionstars="submit***" guide.idextra="71" guide.pagenumber="0" guide.typelength="climb80m" lengthgrade="80m25" namefa="On The Highway to Hell" number="" stars="***" id="74" fa="Nick Hancock, Kieran Lawton, Mar 2002.Nick Hancock, Kieran Lawton, Mar 2002." guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="71" guide.action="submit">The direct finish to Where in the Stain is Snedn, up the amazing soaring arête. 1. 20m 20. As for Where in the Stain is Snedn. 2. 30m 25. Climb the incipient corner crack of the original, but instead of traversing off L at the second bolt, continue straight on up the flying arête via 5 more bolts, to a bolt belay where the angle eases. 3. 30m 22. Step L and climb the barrelling slab via 4 bolts to an easy runnel leading to a bolt belay at the clifftop. Double ropes are essential to rappel the climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="8Þ" grade="24/25" length="25m"</climb>
  <climb name="The Meaning of Life" numberid="75" stars="***" id="75extra="8Þ" number="" length="25m" grade="24/25" fa="Doug McConnell, Jun 2003.">The awesome flake route right of Where in the Stain is Sneden (fully equipped, with DBB).</climb>
  <climb extraname="9ÞThe Holy Grail" gradeid="2676" lengthstars="40m***" nameextra="The Holy Grail9Þ" number="" starslength="***40m" idgrade="7626" fa="Nick Hancock, Jun 2003.">Spectacular, steep and sustained. One of the finest routes of this grade and style in Tasmania.&lt;br/&gt;Start 25m right of The Meaning of Life and climb the left trending dyke.&lt;br/&gt;Decent: The route has no anchor but you can easily lower from the last bolt with a 70m rope or top out and rappel Highway to Hell.</climb>
  <climb extraname="The Life of Meaning" gradeid="2577" lengthstars="35m***" nameextra="The Life of Meaning" number="" starslength="***35m" idgrade="7725" fa="Doug McConnell &amp; Nick Hancock, Jun 2003.">Start as for Holly Grail and climb the thin crack to ledge and BB below big unclimbed corner.</climb>
  <text id="93" class="text">THE PAVILION OF THE GODS&lt;br/&gt;A large easy angled slab between the Gonk and Flowstone Wall.</text>
  <image id="94" src="pavilion of the gods.png" height="673" legend="true" legendTitle="Gonk and Surrounds">
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      <climb>71</climb>
      <climb>72</climb>
      <climb>95</climb>
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  <climb name="The Pavilion of the Gods" id="95" stars="**" extra="" number="P1" name="The Pavilion of the Gods" length="200m" grade="14" fa="H and M Jackson 1993">Starts to the east of the large slab. Access either from walking down the gully behind the Gonk, or across the gully from above 'Sporting Nightmare'. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;1. Gr 12 Climb onto the main slab. &lt;br/&gt;2. and 3. Gr 12. Up remarkable runnel features. Occasional runners. &lt;br/&gt;4. Gr 14 Follow nice flake system through steepening - well protected. &lt;br/&gt;5. On to the top.</climb>
</guide>