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<guide version="3" pagesize="500"> <header id="1" autonumberaccess="true" camping="" walk="15 min fairly flat" sun="Morning sun" rock="Dolerite columns up to 30m high" name="Lost World" intro="The Lost World is located high on the eastern side of Mount Arthur at around 1100m. However, being relatively sheltered, it is often warmer than the Pipes. Retreat is also simpler in the event of sudden inclement weather. The Lost World is known for the steep and relentless nature of the climbing here. Mainly cracks but now some stunning arêtes and walls as well – there is now a mixture of nearly 50 trad and sports routes here, from grade 14 chimneys to grade 29 arêtes. The early first generation sports climbs at New World still have glued carrots with large heads and no rap stations... take some large hangers." history="" acknowledgement="" access="About 9.5km up the Pinnacle Road from Fern Tree a prominent sweeping bend turns back on itself. This is the Big Bend complete with small carpark (GPS MTW300). A number of smaller parking bays are available if the main one is full. Great views of Lost World (also New World and Test World) open up as you drive the last km to the bend. There are two ways to the crag. First, cross the road and the small creek and follow a muddy track past a track signpost for about 50m to a inconspicuous fork in the track. <br/><br/>For the left hand end of the cliff, take the indistinct track off to the right (GPS MTW310 – track intersection marked by a rock with red spots on either side) and follow the increasingly obvious track with yellow paint splots through trees for about 10 minutes down to a boulder field and the top of the cliff. <br/><br/>For the right hand end, don't take the right fork but continue straight ahead along the well-traveled path with red paint spots for about 15mins which leads over a small ridge then down to the RH end of the cliff.About 9.5km up the Pinnacle Road from Fern Tree a prominent sweeping bend turns back on itself. This is the Big Bend complete with small carpark (GPS MTW300). A number of smaller parking bays are available if the main one is full. Great views of Lost World (also New World and Test World) open up as you drive the last km to the bend. There are two ways to the crag. First, cross the road and the small creek and follow a muddy track past a track signpost for about 50m to a inconspicuous fork in the track. <br/><br/>For the left hand end of the cliff, take the indistinct track off to the right (GPS MTW310 – track intersection marked by a rock with red spots on either side) and follow the increasingly obvious track with yellow paint splots through trees for about 10 minutes down to a boulder field and the top of the cliff. <br/><br/>For the right hand end, don't take the right fork but continue straight ahead along the well-traveled path with red paint spots for about 15mins which leads over a small ridge then down to the RH end of the cliff." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="The Lost World is located high on the eastern side of Mount Arthur at around 1100m. However, being relatively sheltered, it is often warmer than the Pipes. Retreat is also simpler in the event of sudden inclement weather. The Lost World is known for the steep and relentless nature of the climbing here. Mainly cracks but now some stunning arêtes and walls as well – there is now a mixture of nearly 50 trad and sports routes here, from grade 14 chimneys to grade 29 arêtes. The early first generation sports climbs at New World still have glued carrots with large heads and no rap stations... take some large hangers." name="Lost World" rock="Dolerite columns up to 30m high" sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min fairly flat" camping="" autonumber="true"/> <text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Descent: There is a bolted rap station at the top of Hoot and Lactos, near the centre of the cliff. To find it, follow the yellow paint splodges to the scree above the cliff. Where the paint trail veers right, pick up a path continuing towards the edge. Once at the top of the cliff, head back L (north) along the cliff edge. The bolts are at the end of a reasonably obvious ledge, by a small gum tree (GPS MTW320). If you can not locate it, go back to the marked trail and follow the paint spots down the steep gully (GPS MTW330) that comes out at the base of Lost World at the left hand end (south) between Incredible Journey and CC's. For the right hand end (north), scramble down the gully near the end of the cliff line, right of Paladin, following the Red Spot path as described in Access. Descent using the central gully is NOT recommended - it is loose, muddy and slippery. Enough said.</text> <gps id="3" kml="<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> <kml xmlns="http://www.opengis.net/kml/2.2" xmlns:gx="http://www.google.com/kml/ext/2.2" xmlns:kml="http://www.opengis.net/kml/2.2" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"> <Document> <name>Lost World</name> <open>1</open> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin"> <LineStyle> <color>7dff0000</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin0"> <LineStyle> <color>7fffffff</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin1"> <LineStyle> <color>7fffffff</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin00"> <LineStyle> <color>7f0000ff</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Style id="sn_ylw-pushpin2"> <LineStyle> <color>7f00ffff</color> <width>6</width> </LineStyle> </Style> <Placemark> <name>Yellow Dot Track</name> <Snippet maxLines="2">Click to view track info and photo</Snippet> <description>Yellow Dot Track</description> <styleUrl>#sn_ylw-pushpin2</styleUrl> <LineString> <coordinates> 147.225550, -42.883586, 1081 147.225387, -42.883940, 1081 147.22551, -42.88426, 1081 147.22488,-42.884001,1081 147.22488,-42.884001,1081 147.224809,-42.883978,1081 147.224764,-42.88398,1081 147.224726,-42.883982,1081 147.224726,-42.883982,1081 147.224631,-42.884002,1083 147.224594,-42.884027,1083 147.224553,-42.88405,1083 147.224522,-42.884068,1084 147.224497,-42.884092,1084 147.224489,-42.884122,1085 147.224489,-42.884122,1085 147.224481,-42.884202,1085 147.224481,-42.884202,1085 147.22443,-42.884235,1085 147.224381,-42.884234,1085 147.224342,-42.884235,1086 147.224303,-42.884235,1087 147.224303,-42.884235,1087 147.224241,-42.884268,1090 147.224244,-42.8843,1091 147.224237,-42.884326,1092 147.224213,-42.884352,1093 147.224158,-42.884374,1092 147.224111,-42.88438,1092 147.224072,-42.884387,1094 147.224036,-42.8844,1095 147.223999,-42.884413,1096 147.22396,-42.884422,1098 147.223927,-42.884435,1099 147.223927,-42.884435,1099 147.223875,-42.88447,1100 147.223863,-42.884499,1101 147.223846,-42.884531,1102 147.223833,-42.884557,1101 147.223815,-42.884586,1102 147.223791,-42.884613,1100 147.223757,-42.884626,1102 147.223701,-42.884629,1101 147.223632,-42.884627,1100 147.223587,-42.884627,1099 147.223544,-42.884625,1098 147.223486,-42.884624,1098 147.223433,-42.884623,1099 147.22339,-42.884623,1099 147.223352,-42.884624,1098 147.223307,-42.884628,1098 147.223266,-42.884644,1098 147.223229,-42.884665,1100 147.223195,-42.884686,1099 147.22316,-42.884705,1101 147.223129,-42.884721,1102 147.223088,-42.884726,1103 147.223052,-42.884721,1103 147.223,-42.884714,1103 147.222964,-42.884707,1104 147.222903,-42.884697,1104 147.222846,-42.884694,1105 147.222764,-42.884688,1105 147.222726,-42.884684,1105 147.222683,-42.884676,1106 147.222632,-42.884669,1107 147.222591,-42.884669,1107 147.222538,-42.884668,1107 147.222416,-42.884665,1108 </coordinates> <tesselate>1</tesselate> </LineString> </Placemark> <Placemark> <name>Track to New World</name> <Snippet maxLines="2">Click to view track info and photo</Snippet> <description>Track to New World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS MTW360). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the R), a large cairn on the LH side (GPS MTW370) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes.</description> <styleUrl>#sn_ylw-pushpin1</styleUrl> <LineString> <coordinates> 147.226503,-42.883379,996 147.226498,-42.883329,996 147.226498,-42.883329,996 147.226479,-42.883171,993.0000000000001 147.226464,-42.883141,993.0000000000001 147.226445,-42.883117,992 147.226445,-42.883117,992 147.226325,-42.882851,991.0000000000001 147.226316,-42.882824,991.0000000000001 147.226302,-42.88275,989.0000000000001 147.226263,-42.882666,989.0000000000001 147.226263,-42.882666,989.0000000000001 147.22623,-42.882569,988 147.22623,-42.882569,988 147.226212,-42.88252,991.0000000000001 147.226212,-42.88252,991.0000000000001 147.226158,-42.882454,991.0000000000001 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track" longitudeeasting="147.22253518172" latitudenorthing="-42.884715251964" zone="55G" northinglatitude="5251964-42.88471" eastinglongitude="518172147.22253" descriptionpid="Start of Yellow Dot track1" codeheight="MTW3100"/> <point heightcode="0MTW320" piddescription="2Lost World rap station - Lactos" longitudeeasting="147.22515518386" latitudenorthing="-42.883865252058" zone="55G" northinglatitude="5252058-42.88386" eastinglongitude="518386147.22515" descriptionpid="Lost World rap station - Lactos2" codeheight="MTW3200"/> <point heightcode="0MTW330" piddescription="3Lost World southern descent gully" longitudeeasting="147.22552518416" latitudenorthing="-42.884305252009" zone="55G" northinglatitude="5252009-42.88430" eastinglongitude="518416147.22552" descriptionpid="Lost World southern descent gully3" codeheight="MTW3300"/> <point heightcode="0MTW350" piddescription="4New World" longitudeeasting="147.22610518464" latitudenorthing="-42.881665252302" zone="55G" northinglatitude="5252302-42.88166" eastinglongitude="518464147.22610" descriptionpid="New World4" codeheight="MTW3500"/> <point heightcode="0MTW370" piddescription="5Cairn on way to New World" longitudeeasting="147.22627518478" latitudenorthing="-42.883425252106" zone="55G" northinglatitude="5252106-42.88342" eastinglongitude="518478147.22627" descriptionpid="Cairn on way to New World5" codeheight="MTW3700"/> <point heightcode="0MTW390" piddescription="6Test World" longitudeeasting="147.22562518424" latitudenorthing="-42.885035251928" zone="55G" northinglatitude="5251928-42.88503" eastinglongitude="518424147.22562" descriptionpid="Test World6" codeheight="MTW3900"/> <point heightcode="0MTW630" piddescription="7Micro World" longitudeeasting="147.22177518110" latitudenorthing="-42.882985252156" zone="55G" northinglatitude="5252156-42.88298" eastinglongitude="518110147.22177" descriptionpid="Micro World7" codeheight="MTW6300"/> </gps> <image id="4" width="" height="475" src="lost world2.png" width="">null</image> <text class="heading3" id="97">Lost World Left Side</text> <climb id="7" numbername="Good Behaviour" extra="" grade="1.18" namelength="Good Behaviour25m" stars="*" fa="E. Peacock, A. Herington, Sep 1982. Direct start: O. Prall, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992." starsnumber="*" length="25m" grade="18" extra=""1.">If you're not on your best behaviour, you might get spanked! About 25m left of the southern descent gully are a pair of twin cracks with a 4m high rock finger leaning against the wall. The right hand flake crack on the arête above ends at 10m. Chimney up the back of the rock finger and climb to the top of the RH crack. Under-cling left to the hand crack, which is followed to the top. Direct start (originally called Dig for Fire, 21): climb the awkward tight and a bit vegetated hand crack straight up past the largish tree and into the easier Good Behaviour line.</climb> <climb id="8" name="Electric Chair" extra="" numbergrade="2.19" namelength="Electric Chair20m" stars="*" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Sep 1982." stars="*" length="20m" grade="19" extra="number="2.">A steep fist crack that takes the next line left of Incredible Journey. Up the thin crack to a small roof at 3m and turn it on its right to a ledge. Jam the crack past a small wedge shaped chockstone to an offwidth move near the top.</climb> <climb id id="9" name="Incredible Journey" extra="9" numbergrade="3.17" namelength="10m"Incredible Journeystars="" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1989." starsnumber="" length="10m" grade="17" extra=""3.">Just left of the descent gully is a short, steep hand crack in a shallow groove. Climb the crack past an awkward move to the top.</climb> <climb id="10" number="4." name="CC's" extra="" grade="22" length="20m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, R. Parkyn, Jan 1992." starsnumber="" length="20m" grade="22" extra=""4.">On the right arête of the descent gully is a thin line that goes through a bulge and up the left edge of the prominent slab. Wires in the thin crack are good and the problem is best tackled by climbing the arête. From the top of the slab follow the easy yellow corner to top. Alternative start: Enchilada (15). Climb the big corner in the descent gully left of CC's to join up with the yellow corner.</climb> <climb id="11" name="Tacho" extra="" grade="20" numberlength="5.20m" namestars="Tacho" fa="M. Law, G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978." starsnumber="" length="20m" grade="20" extra="5.">The original route on the prominent slab 2m right of CC's. Climb to the left of the stepped roofs, up a thin crack, to below a bulge. Face climb up the left side of the bulge to the small stance on top. Straight up the slab, over the horizontal seam to the top (protect with a pin or a small cam).</climb> <climb id="12" name="Black Cherry" extra="" grade="20" numberlength="6.25m" namestars="Black Cherry" fa="A. Herington, E. Peacock, Oct 1982." starsnumber="" length="25m" grade="20" extra=""6.">2m left of Face It is a vegetated fist crack. Start 1m left of this crack (as for Tacho) and climb up trending R past the stepped roofs. Reach right into the crack to place pro before bridging and laying away up past the bulge on Taco. Once back in the crack, continue to the top, finishing up the final crack of Face It.</climb> <image id="103" height="873" src="atlantis and left cropped 1200.jpg" legendylegendTitle="11Lost World Left Side" legendxlegend="7true" legendlegendx="true7" legendTitlelegendy="Lost World Left Side11"> <drawing> <path id="81111" linkedTo="13points="76,787, 94,642, 100,582, 79,577, 96,514, 112,469,lower" d="M76.0,787C83787.0C83.2,729.0 91.19538486428492,665666.95608761756640 94.0,642C96642.0C96.80461513571518,618.04391238243360 101.941619849622849,590.41368601503234 100.0,582C98582.0C98.058380150377161,573.58631398496776 78.01024223268710,585.57790065004516 79.0,577C79577.0C80.98975776731290,568.42209934995494 90.417478633002364,532.2700699283563 96.0,514C101514.0C101.582521366997646,495.72993007164417 105.600000000000016,487.0 112.0,469.0" points="76,787, 94,642, 100,582, 79,577, 96,514, 112,469,lowerlinkedTo="13"/> <path id="69943" linkedTopoints="1230,778,label 43,726, 63,614, 79,578," 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<path id="51449" linkedTopoints="271076,440, 1043,117,belay" d="M1076.0,440C1062440.0C1062.8,310.8 1056.2,246.2 1043.0,117.0" pointslinkedTo="1076,440, 1043,117,belay27"/> <path id="39540" points="754,424, 727,412,label 727,154," d="M754.0,424C753424.0C753.04669554831980,412.2198807042372 728.17599757526522,423.759975752652348 727.0,412C725412.0C725.82400242473488,400.240024247347662 727.0,257.2 727.0,154.0" linkedTo="108"/> <path id="60853" points="" d=""/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>12</climb> <climb>13</climb> <climb>14</climb> <climb>15</climb> <climb>16</climb> <climb>17</climb> <climb>18</climb> <climb>19</climb> <climb>108</climb> <climb>20</climb> <climb>21</climb> <climb>23</climb> <climb>24</climb> <climb>100</climb> <climb>25</climb> <climb>26</climb> <climb>27</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="13" name=" numberFace It" extra="↓" grade="7.20" namelength="Face It25m" stars="*" fa="M. Law, G. Child, S. Parsons, Feb 1978." stars="*" length="25m" grade="20" extra="↓number="7.">Stare the beast down. The crack 3m right of Black Cherry and immediately left of a hugely vegetated corner. Climb the crack past two blocky ledges to just below the base of a small vee groove near the top. Hand traverse left and finish up a short crack.</climb> <climb id="14" number="8." name="Quarrymanname="Quarryman" extra="" grade="18" length="25m" stars="" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Aug 1999." starsnumber="" length="25m" grade="18" extra=""8.">A vegetated corner that might require even further gardening. The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty. An epic clean on lead.</climb> <climb id="15" name="Play Dirty" extra="↓" numbergrade="9.23" namelength="25m"Play Dirtystars="*" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978." stars="*" length="25m" grade="23" extra="↓K. Carrigan, 1978." number="9.">The lightly vegetated, thin flared crack 3m right of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above. A #4 Camalot make the top out more palpable.</climb> <climb id="16" number="10." name="Metal Mania" faextra="R. Parkyn, Feb 1992.5Þ ↓" starsgrade="*25" length="16m" gradestars="25*" extra="5Þ ↓fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1992." number="10.">Crank up the blunt arête between Play Dirty and Glam. Scramble up to bushy ledge to start just left of Glam. Many people break off right just before the top. Take a #0 Friend for above the last bolt if you want to avoid a long run-out past the more direct finish, which is slightly harder. Now with U Bolts (replacing the carrots).</climb> <climb id="17" number="11." name="Glamname="Glam" extra="↓ " grade="19" length="17m" stars="*" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Sep 1982." stars="*" length="17m" grade="19" extra="↓ number="11.">The hand crack 6m around the arête right of Play Dirty and 25m left of Atlantis. This is the far left hand line in the semi-circle of buttresses L of Atlantis and has a short diagonal finger crack near the top. Scramble up to bushy ledge to start. Hand jam to a small ledge, pull up on face holds, then follow the finger crack to the top. Rap off the DBB at the top of Metal Mania.</climb> <climb id="18" number="12." name="The Space Of Disse" name="The Space Of Disse" extra="↓" grade="22" length="10m" stars="" fa="O. Prall, Jan 1992." starsnumber="" length="10m" grade="22" extra="↓"12.">A glorified boulder problem. The discontinuous thin crack 5m around the arête left of Atlantis. Up the sustained crack to the horizontal then rap off at the bolt.</climb> <climb id="19" numbername="13.Atlantis" nameextra="Atlantis" fagrade="J. Friend, Jan 1975.21" length="25m" stars="***" lengthfa="25m" grade="21" extra="J. Friend, Jan 1975." number="13.">The tradster's testpiece. Not the best crack on the mountain (as claimed by Joe Friend), but it's pretty darn good. left of Savage Journey is a dirty corner chimney and left of this is a fine looking, north facing crack line passing between roofs. Climb the crack through various widths, with the crux just below the top.</climb> <climb id="106" number="14." name="Proteusname="Proteus" extra="" grade="20" length="28m" stars="*" fa="K. Robinson, C. Hewer and P. Robinson, Jan 2014." starsnumber="*" length="28m" grade="20" extra=""14.">A continually absorbing route following the corner between Atlantis and Savage Journey. It can be climbed cleanly on the outside with good moves or, less preferably, by jamming with resultant consequences. Follow the crack until it widens and either lay off the edge, climb the arête or jam until it eases a little. A knee bar helps. About half way up either climb the L face or mantel shelf to reach a small ledge Continue to a short V-chimney and novel finish through a hole behind a large block.<br/> <br/></climb> <climb id="108" starsname="**Hejira" extra="" numbergrade="15." name="Hejira23" length="30m" gradestars="23**" fa="H Jackson, S Joseph, T Smith, A Donaghue 2015Donaghue 2015" number="15.">Climb first half of Savage Journey (grade 19 hand crack to this point), until a jug and BR can be spied on the left face. Swing onto jug and clip the BR. Breathe deep then take the steep, sustained face and thin cracks above (well protected: wires and small cams).</climb> <climb id="20" number="16." name="Savage Journey" faextra=""H. Barber, Apr 1975. grade="22" length="30m" stars="***" lengthfa="30m" grade="22" extra="H. Barber, Apr 1975." number="16.">Hand... Off-hand... Fist... This will sort the crack masters from those who are not! On the gently overhanging wall right of Atlantis are two cracks, take the left hand line. Climb the steep and ever widening crack all the way.</climb> <climb id="21" name="Cruise Air" extra="" numbergrade="17.22" namelength="Cruise Air30m" stars="*" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Apr 1982." starsnumber="*" length="30m" grade="22" extra=""17.">The right hand crack on the slightly overhanging wall right of Atlantis. Climb the steep cracks, moving right at the obvious transition. Follow the crack to the top, which becomes off-width.</climb> <climb id="23" number="18." name="Cheshire Cat" faextra="K. Robinson, Jan 2004.Þ ↓" grade="29" length="25m" stars="***" lengthfa="25m" grade="29" extra="Þ ↓K. Robinson, Jan 2004." number="18.">You'll never quit grinning. The arête right of Cruise Air and left of Lactos.</climb> <climb id="24" name="Lactos" extra="↓" grade="21" numberlength="19.22m" namestars="Lactos*" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1982." starsnumber="*" length="22m" grade="21" extra="↓"19.">The thin crack immediately left of a chimney just around the arête right of Cruise Air. Climb the steep crack line to a small ledge. Continue up a short corner to the top. Harder if you don't use the right wall of the chimney. Rap station at the top (on the right).</climb> <climb id="100" number="20." name="Hoot" name="Hoot" extra="" grade="12" length="22m" stars="" fa="T. McKenny, D. Gray, Apr 2011." lengthnumber="22m" grade="12" stars="" extra=""20.">The chimney. Keep to the outside and finish off left at very top.</climb> <climb id="25" numbername="21.GP Project" nameextra="GPÞ ↓ Project" starsgrade="" length="22m" gradestars="" extrafa="Þ ↓ " fanumber="21.">Garry Phillips project (2006) immediately right of the abseil line.</climb> <climb id="26" numbername="22.Carhookia" nameextra="Carhookia4Þ ↓" fagrade="N. Selby, 2000.25" starslength="*20m" lengthstars="20m*" gradefa="25N. Selby, 2000." extranumber="4Þ ↓22.">Start 3m right of the bottom of Lactos (where the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off.</climb> <climb id="27" number="23." name="Heavenly Head Job" faextra="Phil Steane, Sep 1982." starsgrade="18" length="20m" stars="" gradefa="18Phil Steane, Sep 1982." extranumber="23.">It gets the thumbs up from Bill Clinton. The strange looking corner capped with a roof right of Carhookia. Bridge and jam the corner which becomes progressively harder. Hand jam the roof, step out left (awkward) and continue to the top, or belay and rap from the Carhookia lower-off.</climb> <climb id="28" numbername="Stone The Crows" extra="24." namegrade="Stone The Crows18" length="25m" stars="" fa="L. Closs, I. Lewis, Mar 1973." starsnumber="" length="25m" grade="18" extra=""24.">A tricky start that can flummox newcomers. Found 10m left of the central gully and marked by a conspicuous clean off-width crack. Climb the short steep wall (difficult to protect) and continue up the wide crack above until a ledge is reached. Climb either of the two cracks to reach the top.</climb> <text class="heading3" id="98">Lost World Right Side</text> <climb id="29" name="Cloaca" extra=" number" grade="15" length="25.8m" namestars="Cloaca" fa=" D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992." stars="" length="8m" grade="15" extra=" 1992." number="25.">On the southern wall of the central gully. Climb the hands to offwidth crack.</climb> <climb id="30" number="26." name="Drayton" name="Drayton" extra="" grade="21" length="17m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, A. Hall, Jan 1992." starsnumber="" length="17m" grade="21" extra=""26.">A contrived tribute to a dead poet. Start via the bolts on Back on the Borderline, then move left and stem up the corner.</climb> <climb id="31" number="27." name="Back On The Borderline" extra="2Þ" grade="20" length="17m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Nov 1990." starsnumber="" length="17m" grade="20" extra="2Þ"27.">Start on the northern wall of the central gully, about 5m left of Commoner's Crown. Climb the wall past 2 bolts, then finish up the hand crack.</climb> <climb id="32" name="Naked Flame" extra="5Þ" numbergrade="28.23" namelength="Naked Flame17m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, D. Rossen, Jan 1992." stars="" length="17m" grade="23" extra="5Þ 1992." number="28.">The arête 2m right of Back on the Borderline. Follow the line of bolts, avoiding the tempting step onto the left wall. The third clip is pretty tenuous.</climb> <climb id="33" number="29." name="Commoner's Crown" extra="" grade="17" length="25m" stars="" fa="K. Kiernan, K. McConnell, Dec 1975." starsnumber="" length="25m" grade="17" extra="29.">The hand crack on the righthand side of the central gully. Jam to a large ledge and thug your way up the often damp corner to the top.</climb> <climb id="34" name=" numberCries And Whispers" extra="30." namegrade="19"Cries And Whisperslength="25m" stars="*" fa="K. Lindorff, K. McConnell, Jan 1976." starsnumber="*" length="25m" grade="19" extra=""30.">The front of the buttress to the right of the central gully. Hand jam to an awkward rest stance between twin cracks. Move into the lefthand crack and up this (crux) to the large ledge. Finish as for Commoner's Crown - don't forget to keep some big gear back for the final crack!</climb> <climb id="102" number="31." name="Raiders Of The Lost World" faextra=""J. Fischer, C. Allen, 2007. grade="16" length="25m" stars="" lengthfa="25m" grade="16" extra="J. Fischer, C. Allen, 2007." number="31.">The deep chimney to the right of Cries and Whispers. An old-school strenuous thrutch, completely devoid of any natural gear. Watch out for the large rolling boulder at the top after you steal the precious jewel...</climb> <climb id="35" number="32." name="Minstrel In The Gallery" extra="" grade="19" length="15m" stars="" fa="R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, K. McConnell, Jan 1977." starsnumber="" length="15m" grade="19" extra="32.">15m right of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner righthand crack (though it is still often slippery).</climb> <climb id="36" number="33." name="Blood On The Racks" extra="" grade="21" length="20m" stars="*" fa="K. Kiernan, S. Karpiniec, K. McConnell, Dec 1975. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, P. Bigg, L. Shepherd, Jan 1982." stars="*" length="20m" grade="21" extra="number="33.">The short, thin crack a few metres left of Lost Wanderer. Up the crack past a thin section to a ledge. Continue left off the ledge easily to the top.</climb> <text id="101">There has been a rock fall (2012) down the next line which has left the scree at the top near the popular Lost Wanderer belay very unstable and dangerous.</text> <climb id="37" name=" numberTechnicolour Zawn" extra="" grade="34.12" namelength="Technicolour Zawn15m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane (solo), Jan 1983." stars="" length="15m" grade="12" extra=" Jan 1983." number="34.">The easy chimney/flake with the bush immediately right of Blood on the Racks. Caution - the recent rock fall may have changed this route - the top is very unstable and dangerous.</climb> <image id="104" height="552" src="right 4 1200.jpg" legendylegendTitle="363Lost World Right Side" legendxlegend="514true" legendlegendx="true892" legendTitlelegendy="Lost World Right Side349"> <drawing> <path id="11369" linkedTo="38points="53,459, 66,362, 75,323, 111,309, 151,289, 163,193, 178,47,belay" d="M53.0,459C58459.0C58.2,420.2 63.443382107662874,377.80454697081138 66.0,362C68362.0C68.556617892337136,346.19545302918872 6465.999917253135070,334.777875235196468 75.0,323C85323.0C85.000082746864930,311.222124764803542 96.896441049432629,315.3094868989383 111.0,309C125309.0C125.103558950567381,302.6905131010627 147.513752064064055,306.5455428906945 151.0,289C154289.0C154.486247935935955,271.4544571093065 158.708985643276977,231.460202752850855 163.0,193C167193.0C167.291014356723033,154.539797247149155 172.0,105.4 178.0,47.0" points="53,459, 66,362, 75,323, 111,309, 151,289, 163,193, 178,47,belaylinkedTo="38"/> <path id="55603" linkedTopoints="39143,479, 152,288," d="M143.0,479C146479.0C146.600000000000026,402.6 148.513752064064055,305.5455428906945 152.0,288.0" pointslinkedTo="143,479, 152,288,39"/> <path id="87294" linkedTopoints="40241,402, 247,159, 253,27,lower" d="M241.0,402C243402.0C243.4,304.799999999999958 245.3095207500173,211.827476561968928 247.0,159C248159.0C248.6904792499837,106.172523438031062 250.6,79.8 253.0,27.0" pointslinkedTo="241,402, 247,159, 253,27,lower40"/> <path id="52355" linkedTopoints="41286,336, 284,83,belay" d="M286.0,336C285336.0C285.2,234.799999999999988 284.8,184.200000000000022 284.0,83.0" pointslinkedTo="286,336, 284,83,belay41"/> <path id="77153" linkedTopoints="42481,323, 473,57,belay" d="M481.0,323C477323.0C477.8,216.6 476.2,163.4 473.0,57.0" pointslinkedTo="481,323, 473,57,belay42"/> <path id="35732" linkedTopoints="43583,296, 577,252,label 559,58,lower" d="M581,296C572M583.0,296.0C582.2,200278.3 578.8 567.8,153.2 559,58" points="581,296, 559,58,lower,269.7 577.0,252.0C575.2,234.3 566.2,135.6 559.0,58.0" linkedTo="43"/> <path id="83475" linkedTopoints="46793,312, 767,100,belay" d="M793.0,312C782312.0C782.6,227.2 777.4,184.8 767.0,100.0" pointslinkedTo="793,312, 767,100,belay46"/> <path id="54791" linkedTopoints="47843,307, 811,149, 813,87,belay" d="M843.0,307C830307.0C830.2,243.8 814.35255042027514,173.585369748684146 811.0,149C807149.0C807.64744957972496,124.414630251315864 812.2,111.800000000000018 813.0,87.0" pointslinkedTo="843,307, 811,149, 813,87,belay47"/> <path id="11232" linkedTopoints="45682,340, 662,89,belay" d="M682,340C674.0,340.0C674.0,239.6 670.0,189.4 662.0,89.0" pointslinkedTo="682,340, 662,89,belay45"/> <path id="87810" points=" linkedTo="1051132,357, 1098,164, 1083,64,belay" d="M1132.0,357C1118357.0C1118.4,279.799999999999958 1104.67160572472457,203.89347912947469 1098.0,164C1091164.0C1091.32839427527553,124.106520870525421 1089.0,104.0 1083.0,64.0" pointslinkedTo="1132,357, 1098,164, 1083,64,belay105"/> <path id="13582" points="" d="" linkedTo="105" d/> <path id="28708" points="" d=""/> <path id="36240" points="28708588,478, 584,296,belay" d="M588.0,478.0C586.4,405.2 584.8,313.7 584.0,296.0" pointslinkedTo="109"/> </drawing> <legend> <climb>38</climb> <climb>39</climb> <climb>40</climb> <climb>41</climb> <climb>42</climb> <climb>109</climb> <climb>43</climb> <climb>45</climb> <climb>46</climb> <climb>47</climb> <climb>50</climb> </legend> </image> <climb id="38" number="35." name="Lost Wanderer <climb id="38" name="Lost Wanderer" extra="" grade="18" length="25m" stars="***" fa="I. Lewis, K. Carrigan, Apr 1974. Direct Start: L. Closs, Jul 1975." starsnumber="***" length="25m" grade="18" extra=""35.">Not hard to locate. The wall with two horizontal breaks about 50m right of the central gully. Climb the short crack on the L, traverse right using the horizontal breaks into the main crack, and follow this to the top. Direct Start (19): From the fallen block at the base climb directly up the front of the buttress to join the main crack. Not for the faint-hearted, as there is no pro and the landing on the rocks at the base would be rather painful if it all went pear-shaped.</climb> <climb id="39" numbername="Wander No More" extra="36." namegrade="21"Wander No Morelength="25m" stars="" fa=" D. Gray, S. Eberhardt, Jan 1992." stars="" length="25m" grade="21" extra="">The crack on the right side of the arête below ." number="36.">The crack on the right side of the arête below Lost Wanderer. Finish up Lost Wanderer from about half height.</climb> <climb id="40" name="Gargamell" extra="Þ ↓ " grade="28" length="20m" stars="**" fa="A. Williams, Jan 2004." number="37.">The bolted arête right of Lost Wanderer. FinishDelicately uppowerful Lostmoves Wandererwith froman aboutengaging half heightcrux.</climb> <climb id="4041" numbername="37.Hurricane" nameextra="Gargamell" fagrade="A. Williams, Jan 2004.14" length="27m" stars="**" lengthfa="20mBasil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb 1976." gradenumber="28" extra="Þ ↓ ">The bolted arête right of Lost Wanderer. Delicately powerful moves with an engaging crux38.">The chances of being blown away are slim indeed. 15m right of Lost Wanderer, around the corner, is an obvious chimney with three large chockstones. Chimney and jam to the top.</climb> <climb id="41" number="38." name="Hurricane42" name="Great Southern Land" extra="" grade="21" length="20m" stars="*" fa="Basil Rathbone, R. Roffe, Feb 1976." stars="" length="27m" grade="14" extra="">The chances of being blown away are slim indeed.Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct 1982. FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb 1986." number="39.">The corner with twin cracks above a scrubby ledge, about 15m right of LostHurricane Wanderer,and around the corner, is an obvious chimney with three large chockstones. Chimney arête left of Dyazide. Solo up past the scrub and onto the ledge and belay. Bridge and jam to the twin cracks, finishing up the toplefthand crack.</climb> <climb id="42109" numbername="39.Opioid " nameextra="Great Southern Land" grade="25" fa="Phil Steane, Pete Steane, Oct 1982. FFA: G. Cooper, A. Adams, Feb 1986.length="14m" stars="**" lengthfa="20m" grade="21" extra="Alex Hartshorne, Crazy John Dec 17" number="40.">The cornercrack withbelow twinEndorphin cracks aboveis a scrubbyshort ledge,finger aboutand 15mlayback rightcrack ofwith Hurricanea andcouple aroundof the arête left of Dyazide. Solo up past the scrub and ontobouldery moves.<br/>Small/medium wires protect the middle. End on the ledge andor belay.link Bridge and jam the twin cracks, finishing up the lefthand crackinto Endorphin!<br/>Possibly 24 if your tall with small fingers.</climb> <climb id="43" number="40." name="Endorphine" faextra="K. Robinson, Jan 2004.Þ ↓" starsgrade="**26" length="20m" gradestars="26**" extra="Þ ↓fa="K. Robinson, Jan 2004." number="41.">The bolted arête to the left of Dyazide and right of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height.</climb> <climb id="44" number="41." name="Dyazide" name="Dyazide" extra="" grade="17" length="12m" stars="*" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, D. Fife, 1982." stars="*" length="12m" grade="17" extra="." number="42.">The distinctive north-facing crack starting from a ledge halfway up the cliff, left of a wide corner. Scramble up to the ledge from the right. Jam the hand crack to an awkward rest in the sentry box, then exit using the finger crack (crux).</climb> <climb id="45" number="42." name="Don't Eat Yellow Snow" extra="" grade="25" length="15m" stars="*" fa="Phil Steane, et al, Apr 1983. FFA: M. Jackson, Feb 1995." stars="*" length="15m" grade="25" extra="number="43.">Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack left of Adolf Builds A Bonfire and the third line right of Dyazide. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small cams required.</climb> <climb id="105" name=" numberPeaches En Regalia" extra="43." namegrade="20"Peaches En Regalialength="15m" stars="" fa="D. Rollins, A. Shorten, Apr 2013." starsnumber="" length="15m" grade="20" extra=""44.">The first line left of Adolf Builds A Bonfire. Some flared and quirky jamming, with an interesting move near the top.</climb> <climb id="46" number="44." name="Adolf Builds A Bonfire" extra="" grade="18" length="15m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, A. Adams, Jan 1983." stars="" length="15m" grade="18" extra=" 1983." number="45.">A 1930’s style literary purge in the making? The big corner left of Opportunity. Up the small slab then jam the corner.</climb> <climb id="47" number="45." name="Opportunity" name="Opportunity" extra="" grade="20" length="15m" stars="*" fa="A. Adams, Phil Steane, Mar 1983." stars="*" length="15m" grade="20" extra="number="46.">Much to gain, so little pain. The overhung crack and sentry box 6m left of World Wide Adventure. Climb the crack past the sentry box to the sloping ledge at the top. The move onto the ledge is memorable.</climb> <climb id="48" name="World Wide Adventure" numberextra="46." namegrade="18"World Wide Adventurelength="22m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, N. Ward, Mar 1983." starsnumber="" length="22m" grade="18" extra=""47.">The L-facing corner below a scrubby ledge 15m left of Rosy Pink Cadillac. A prominent gum tree is growing out of the top crack. Layback the corner, cross the ledge, jam the crack to the gum tree (crux) and finish up the final groove.</climb> <climb id="49" number="47." name="Money In The Bank" extra="" grade="21" length="12m" stars="" fa="(1) N. Ward, Phil Steane. (2) C. Maddock, Phil Steane, Apr 1983. FFA: E. Peacock, 1983." stars="" length="12m" grade="21" extra="." number="48.">A safe investment. <br/>1. 8m 21. Climb the seam on the wall left of the Rosy Pink Cadillac off-width. <br/>2. 14m 12. Layback the large loose flake cautiously, finishing easily behind the buttress.</climb> <climb id="50" name="Rosy Pink Cadillac" numberextra="48.↓" namegrade="25"Rosy Pink Cadillaclength="25m" stars="***" fa="M. McHugh, R. McMahon, 1971. FFA: M. Law, 1978. Direct Start: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, D. Fife, Feb 1983." stars="***" length="25m" grade="25" extra="↓number="49.">An old aid line gone free, following a thin crack up the front of the last major buttress on the right end of the cliff, left of Agent Orange Sunset. These days the route is normally climbed via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 bolts, and the Direct Finish (25) past another bolt, for a more strenuous and sustained outing. The original free version (23) started up the off-width on the left before stepping right into the finger crack, and also finished by swinging around to the easy corner on the left at the end of finger crack.</climb> <climb id="107" starsname="Closed Project" extra="" numbergrade="49." namelength="Closed Project" lengthstars="" gradefa="" fanumber="50.">Line of bolts right of Rosy Pink Cadillac</climb> <climb id="51" number="50." name="Agent Orange Sunset" faextra=""Phil Steane, Nov 1982. grade="19" length="20m" stars="**" lengthfa="20m" grade="19" extra="Phil Steane, Nov 1982." number="51.">Unique and weird. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal left leaning flake at the right end of the cliff. Struggle up the off-width chimney 3m left of Paladin until you can traverse out left at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing left around the arête and finish up an easy chimney.</climb> <climb id="52" number="51." name="Paladin" name="Paladin" extra="" grade="17" length="16m" stars="*" fa="P. Morris, P. Cullen, Jan 1977." starsnumber="*" length="16m" grade="17" extra=""52.">The short, steep, and slightly dirty hand crack at the far right of the cliff, just right of Agent Orange Sunset. Jam the crack.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="53">New World</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="54">Rock: Dolerite, up to 15m high, slightly off vertical.</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="55">Access: This little crag (GPS MTW350), visible from the bend below the Chalet, is 15 minutes walk from Lost World. The easiest route to the cliff is probably to follow the Yellow Spot Track across the boulder field in front of Lost World until it meets the Red Spot Track, just about directly opposite the Lactos abseil (GPS MTW360). Follow the yellow spots steeply down over the edge for about 50m and shortly after the track levels off (just before it veers off down again and to the right), a large cairn on the left hand side (GPS MTW370) marks a track that contours round to the north, marked by tape and occasional cairns, to two bolted arêtes. Alternatively, bush-bash down from the northern end of Lost World down to the top and rap off to reach the base... easier to describe, harder to do...</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="56">Climbing Info: 13 routes, offering a varied selection of cracks and bolted faces. Routes are described L to R and virtually all have initialed starts. Note that the carrot bolts used here have large heads, and will not take the some right-angle RP brackets.</text> <climb id="57" number="52." name="Cranky Girl" faextra="A. Williams, Jan 2002.3Þ ↓" starsgrade="*24" length="10m" gradestars="24*" extrafa="3Þ ↓A. Williams, Jan 2002." number="53.">The first climb on the craglet (GPS MTW380) takes the arête of the column left of Dvorak Goes Metal.</climb> <climb id="58" number="53." name="Dvorak Goes Metal" faextra="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991.Þ" grade="20" length="12m" stars="**" lengthfa="12m" grade="20" extra="ÞR. Parkyn, Apr 1991." number="54.">The route follows the superb looking arête, 5m right of Cranky Girl. Scramble to the base of the arête then launch onto the arête proper. Three bolts (carrots) protect the excellent and technical face climbing above, single bolt belay (FH).</climb> <climb id="59" numbername="54.Friends With Cameras for Eyes" nameextra="Friends With Cameras for Eyes" grade="16" length="15m" stars="*" fa="O. Prall, May 1991." starsnumber="*" length="15m" grade="16" extra=""55.">Start about 12m right of the DGM. A few bouldery moves lead to a twin crack system made of loose blocks and flakes.</climb> <climb id="60" number="55." name="Catcher In The Rye" extra="" grade="15" length="16m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." starsnumber="" length="16m" grade="15" extra=""56.">About 2m right of FWCFE. Hand jam to two blocks and a bush. Continue up the crack above until a traverse left across the wall to a "horn" can be made, to avoid an off width crack. Finish up the hand crack right of the arête.</climb> <climb id="61" number="56." name="Quintessence of Clarity" faextra="M. Perchard, May 1991.Þ" starsgrade="*20" length="15m" grade="20" extra="Þstars="*" fa="M. Perchard, May 1991." number="57.">The face/arête just left of Pinkinsane. Climb the face or arête behind the myrtle to the first of two carrots (run out). Continue past the difficulties until it eases. Ascend easily and then finish with moves of varying degrees of difficulty. Pro can be arranged in Pinkinsane to avoid initial runout.</climb> <climb id="62" number="57." name="Pinkinsane" name="Pinkinsane" extra="" grade="16" length="16m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." starsnumber="" length="16m" grade="16" extra=""58.">Jam the fist crack just right of the above route, terminating in an easy chimney.</climb> <climb id="63" number="58." name="Would Jesus Play Guitar in a Thrash Metal Band" faextra="O. Prall, Apr 1991.Þ" starsgrade="*24" length="15m" grade="24" extra="Þstars="*" fa="O. Prall, Apr 1991." number="59.">Rewarding and technical. Start 1m right of Pinkinsane. Climb the face past two bolts (carrots) on thin layaway holds (crux). Continue up the hand crack which begins at 7m.</climb> <climb id="64" numbername="Procol Harum" extra="" grade="59.15" namelength="Procol Harum16m" stars="**" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." stars="**" length="16m" grade="15" extra=""number="60.">A pearler! Hand jam the line 4m right of Pinkinsane finishing up a short slab on the left.</climb> <climb id="65" name="Toxastoma par Excellance" extra="Þ" numbergrade="60.23" namelength="Toxastoma par Excellance15m" stars="**" fa="M. Perchard, Apr 1991." starsnumber="**" length="15m" grade="23" extra="Þ"61.">A sustained and technical climb (if you stay on route) which climbs the face between Procol Harum and Tales of Power. Using small holds and both arêtes climb to the base of the layback flake. Up this then move L (crux) to a finger crack. Up this for 3m, then finish back right up the blank wall above. (4BRs, carrots).</climb> <climb id="66" numbername="Tales Of Power" extra="61." namegrade="17"Tales Of Powerlength="16m" stars="*" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." starsnumber="*" length="16m" grade="17" extra=""62.">The line 2m R of Procol Harum. A thin start, followed by hand jams and some pleasant offwidth moves.</climb> <climb id="67" name=" numberSemi Detached Reality" extra="62." namegrade="16"Semi Detached Realitylength="16m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." starsnumber="" length="16m" grade="16" extra=""63.">The crack 4m right of Tales of Power that splits into two half way up. Steep hand jams, followed by a traverse into the left hand line.</climb> <climb id="68" number="63." name="Parkynsane" name="Parkynsane" extra="" grade="20" length="20m" stars="" fa="R. Parkyn, Apr 1991." starsnumber="" length="20m" grade="20" extra=""64.">Starts just right of Semi Detached Reality. A wandering beginning leads to a thin crack near the right hand edge of the high orange wall. Climb the crack and arête just to the right. Well protected.</climb> <climb id="69" numbername="64.Barbwire Canoe" nameextra="Barbwire Canoe" fagrade="Phil6 Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." starslength="16m" lengthstars="16m" gradefa="6Phil Steane, R. deCesare, Nov 1982." extranumber="65.">The easy corner just right of the main cliff, finishing with a desperate move.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="70">Test World</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="71">Rock: Dolerite face, about 15m high. It is not like us to be judgmental or disparaging, but this is shite. It might be worth a visit if you are really, really bored with everything else on the mountain, or with life itself.</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="72">Access: Aaaagh! Located 150m to the south of Lost World, at the same altitude (GPS MTW390). From Good Behaviour scramble and bush-bash south (towards the road) and down around a rock spur or two then back uphill to reach the crag. Alternatively, a direct approach to the top as an offshoot from the usual route into Lost World from is less scrubby but very difficult to find. Take the GPS... and a machete... or flame thrower...</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="73">Climbing Info: The "crag" faces the Organ Pipes and is split by only 4 lines, the RH of which is vegetated with tea tree. Routes are described from L to R.</text> <climb id="74" number="65." name="Six Months In A Leaky Test Tube" extra="" grade="17" length="15m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982." starsnumber="" length="15m" grade="17" extra=""66.">The left hand line. Start behind the scrub and continue up the left trending crack.</climb> <climb id="75" number="66." name="Testing One Two Three" extra="" grade="14" length="15m" stars="" fa="Phil Steane, G. Cooper, 1982." starsnumber="" length="15m" grade="14" extra=""67.">The chimney, second from the left, with a big chockstone at half height.</climb> <climb id="76" number="67." name="My Mother Was A Test Tube" extra="" grade="17" length="15m" stars="" fa="G. Cooper, Phil Steane, 1982." starsnumber="" length="15m" grade="17" extra=""68.">The third crack with the awkward looking start. Up the crack to the ledge and continue easily to top.</climb> <text class="heading2" id="77">Micro World</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="78">Rock: North facing dolerite buttresses up to 10m</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="79">Access: The crag is due north of the big bend, on the other side of the ridge, and faces north. The easiest way to get there is to walk up the red dot track to the top of the hill. After it goes up past the rock step, turn sharply L and follow the ridge along west about 200m. Angle north and you will pick up some old cairns and an old track, which heads down to the crag on its western end.</text> <text class="indentedHeader" id="80">Climbing Info: This little crag makes up for its lack of height by easy access, a sunny aspect, and user friendly climbing. Its probably the sunniest crag on the mountain. There is potential for a couple more lines to be done here. Climbs are described left to right.</text> <climb id="93" number="68." name="Smear Like a Madman" faextra="Dave3Þ Humphries, Tony McKenny, Apr 2010.↓ " starsgrade="*20" length="8m" gradestars="20*" extrafa="3Þ ↓ "Dave Humphries, Tony McKenny, Apr 2010." number="69.">Superb climbing in the corner 3m left of Georgie's climb. Stem, bridge and smear to the top. Use the DBB on Dirty Dog.</climb> <climb id="91" number="69." name="Georgie's Climb Climb" extra="↓" grade="21" length="8m" stars="*" fa="Jon Nermut, Apr 2010 (with pre-placed gear)." starsnumber="*" length="8m" grade="21" extra="↓"70.">The little roof about 5m left of Little Ripper. Climb up the face to a tricky boulder problem at the roof. Continue up to the DBB on Dirty Dog.</climb> <climb id="92" number="70." name="Dirty Dog" faextra="↓"Jon Nermut, Apr 2010. grade="14" length="10m" gradestars="14" extrafa="↓Jon Nermut, Apr 2010." starsnumber="71.">The crack and corner right of Georgie's Climb. DBB.</climb> <climb id="81" number="71." name="Little Ripper" faextra="Jon Nermut, Mar 2010.3Þ ↓" starsgrade="*21" length="8m" gradestars="21*" extrafa="3Þ ↓Jon Nermut, Mar 2010." number="72.">Around on the left hand side of the crag is a face with two lines. Climb the left arête past 3 FH to DBB. You can get a small cam in under the block at the top to protect the exit.</climb> <climb id="82" number="72." name="Rough as Guts" faextra="Dave Humphries, Mar 2010.↓" starsgrade="20" length="8m" stars="" grade="20" extra="↓fa="Dave Humphries, Mar 2010." number="73.">The burly crack to the right of Little Ripper. One FH protects the start, then there is bomber gear in the crack. Use the DBB on Little Ripper.</climb> <climb id="94" name="Hawk Eye" numberextra="5Þ" grade="73.20" namelength="Hawk Eye8m" stars="*" fa="Will Bartlett, Sam Peyr, Apr 2010." starsnumber="*" length="8m" grade="20" extra="5Þ"74.">The arête and face around the corner right from Rough as Guts. A tricky start gives way to pleasant climbing, head a move or two left at the last bolt. DBB on block.</climb> <climb id="95" number="74." name="Dying Breed" faextra="Will Bartlett, May 2010.Þ" grade="26" length="12m" stars="**" lengthfa="12m" grade="26" extra="ÞWill Bartlett, May 2010." number="75.">The steep, thin seam on the pillar right of Hawk Eye is fused to begin with but then opens to accept gear. Start bridging in the corner, then step onto the face at the first bolt. Awesome climbing using both aretes and seam past two more bolts. There is a crucial medium wire/cam placement higher up. Finish up seam to DBB on ledge.</climb> <image id="83" width="500" height="667" src="Main Topo.jpg" width="500" legendylegend="10true" legendx="10" legendlegendy="true10" noPrint="false"> <legend>81</legend> <legend>82</legend> <legend>84</legend> </image> <climb id="84" name="Flood Control" extra=" number↓" grade="17" length="75.10m" namestars="Flood Control*" fa="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010." starsnumber="*" length="10m" grade="17" extra="↓"76.">Climb the seam and crack up the middle of the face to DBB. The gear gets better with height (it's a bit thin down low).</climb> <image id="85" width="500" height="667" src="CC topo.jpg" legendywidth="500" legend="10true" legendx="10" legendlegendy="true10" noPrint="false"> <legend>96</legend> <legend>86</legend> <legend>90</legend> </image> <climb id="96" name="Lost and Found" numberextra="76." namegrade="Lost and Found14" length="10m" stars="" fa="Tony McKenny, Alan Beech, 25 April 2010." lengthnumber="10m" grade="14" stars="" extra=""77.">The "long" crack a few metres to the right of Flood Control, 2m left of Collar Cool. Short but sweet.</climb> <climb id="86" number="77." name="18 Collar Cool" faextra="Dave Humphries, Apr 2010.3Þ" starsgrade="*22" length="8m" grade="22" extra="3Þstars="*" fa="Dave Humphries, Apr 2010." number="78.">Great climbing up the arête. Stick clip the first bolt then head for the layaways and jugs.</climb> <climb id="90" number="78.90" name="I'd Rather Be Eating a Super Schnitzel" extra="" grade="15" length="6m" stars="" fa="Alex Lewis, Will Bartlett, Mar 2010." lengthnumber="6m" grade="15" stars="" extra=""79.">The prominent crack in the corner a few metres right of 18 Collar Cool. This steep, dirty, mossy off-hand crack is every bit as good as it sounds! Jam to the top, mantle into the sharp bushes and step left to DBB on 18 Collar Cool.</climb> <image id="87" width="500" height="667" src="sc2 Topo.jpg" legendywidth="500" legend="10true" legendx="10" legendlegendy="true10" noPrint="false"> <legend>88</legend> <legend>89</legend> </image> <climb id="88" number="79." name="Short Climb 2" faextra="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010.↓" starsgrade="21" length="6m" grade="21" extra="↓stars="" fa="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010." number="80.">The first bit of rock you come to on the right hand end of the crag is a tiny buttress with some bolts in it. Climb the face past a FH and into the thin crack, which takes small cams.</climb> <climb id="89" number="80." name="Expectorant" faextra="Dave Humphries, Feb 2010.2Þ ↓" starsgrade="18" length="6m" gradestars="18" extrafa="2Þ ↓Dave Humphries, Feb 2010." number="81.">The detached pillar just to the right has 2 bolts. Climb up and over to the DBB on the previous climb. A bit contrived... but fun all the same.</climb> </guide> |
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