Page History

<guide version="3">
  <header id="1" name="Northern Buttress" access="Access to Northern Buttress is via a track that starts at the climbers&apos; car park. Where this track meets the Organ Pipes track, continue directly opposite and up hill on the signposted track to Northern Buttress. The track first meets the cliff base at a conspicuous prow. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The Darkside is the cliff left of this prow which ends at Chockstone Gully, a rock choked couloir that leads up to the Notch.  The Lower Cliff is found around the toe of prow to the right. Routes that start high up from the Notch are under the heading of Climbs from the Notch. Sentinel Ridge, one of these routes, starts at the notch and follows the skyline ridge to the very top of the Organ Pipes. Back down at ground level, routes on the Upper Cliff are accessed by scrambling up from the right hand end of the Lower Cliff.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Descent: There are numerous rap stations on Northern Buttress. Check individual route descriptions for details." autonumber="true" camping="" walk="20 min uphill" sun="Morning sun" rock="Dolerite cracks, faces and ridges up to 50m" intro="Northern Buttress is the last major buttress at the right hand end of the cliff. Routes here are shorter, often easier to find and sunnier particularly if located on the Lower Cliff. If you are not familiar with the Pipes then climbing on this buttress is less likely to end in an epic encounter. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Descriptions begin with climbs at the left hand end of the buttress in the Darkside area. Around the toe of the conspicuous prow right of the Darkside, is the Lower Cliff where the majority of routes are found. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;The skyline ridge of Northern Buttress is split halfway along by a gap in the ridge called the Notch. When viewed from the Lower Cliff, Buttress Pinnacle is the knob on the skyline immediately left of the Notch.&lt;br/&gt;" history="" acknowledgement=""/>
  <image id="3" src="northern buttress.png" height="976" width="">null</image>
  <text id="51" class="heading2">The Darkside</text>
  <text id="52" class="text">Climbs in this area are in the shade and all start left of the conspicuous prow. From the toe of the prow, traverse left on a track at the base of the cliff then uphill to a rock choked couloir (Chockstone Gully). The first two routes start on the wall just left of the gully.</text>
  <image id="53" src="DarksidePrint.jpg" height="932" width="700" legendTitle="The Darkside" legendy="20" legendx="510" legend="true">null
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  </image>
  <climb id="64" name="Side Saddling Cheesecake " fa="N. Selby, 2001." stars="" number="1." length="12m" grade="23" extra="5Þ ↓">Short and sweet. Found on the wall left of Chockstone Gully. Climb the face and arête left of the crack up to the Jackson's Apprentices rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="63" name="Jackson&apos;s Apprentices " fa="Phil Steane (solo), Aug 1982. FFA: S. Parsons, D. Fife, Oct 1982." stars="" number="2." length="11m" grade="24" extra="↓">Short, steep and strenuous. Follow the crack system up the middle of the wall just right of Side Saddling Cheesecake to the rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="62" name="Chockstone Gully " fa="Unknown, 1950s." stars="" number="3." length="46m" grade="7 " extra="↓">Choked with large chockstones, this often damp couloir provides quick access to the Notch and Buttress Pinnacle. The huge rectangular chockstone bridging the top of the couloir is Chockstone Slab. The first 30m of the couloir is mainly a scramble ending at Chockstone Slab. Climb up the slab and continue to the Notch. Climb to the top of Buttress Pinnacle and rap station (50m).</climb>
  <climb id="61" name="Skyline Minor " fa="Unknown, but a route was completed to the Pinnacle by J. Peterson and D. Webber circa 1958." stars="**" number="4." length="120m" grade="9 " extra="↓">An historic route with several variations that follows the crest of Northern Buttress to finish on Buttress Pinnacle. Start at either the second or third chimney left of the conspicuous prow. &lt;br/&gt;1a. 7m. Easy Chimney - The left hand and less interesting chimney. &lt;br/&gt;1b. Cruddy Chimney - The more exciting chimney to the right. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Scramble easily up to the right and join the skyline proper at the Second Platform.&lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Skyline Traverse - Continue easily up to the foot of the next prominent crack (Curving Crack) where the ridge steepens. Right of this, climb up 5m onto the top of a block on the ridge crest. An exposed traverse leads 4m across the north face to a stance on top of the Canopy Chockstone of Pulpit Chimney. &lt;br/&gt;4a. 15m. Window Wall - Up the face to the left of Window Crack. &lt;br/&gt;4b. Window Crack - Up the crack on the left wall of the chimney, continuing right and through Bottleneck Chimney to the Third Platform. &lt;br/&gt;4c. Bottleneck Passage - Squeeze through the tunnel behind the stance to the south side of the buttress, and climb 3m to the Third Platform. &lt;br/&gt;4d. Bottleneck Chimney - A narrow continuation of Pulpit Chimney. Belay above the constriction at the level of the Third Platform. &lt;br/&gt;5. 40m. Bottleneck Chimney - Climb up inside the wide chimney and at the top, cross over to the right of a large flake on the upper wall. Up airily on good holds until the angle eases, then up the slab and along the ridge to the Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m down through chockstones).</climb>
  <climb id="60" name="Pelf " fa="E. Peacock (solo), Feb 1983." stars="" number="5." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">The small buttress right of Cruddy Chimney (Skyline Minor pitch 1b) and left of Bollard Chimney. Climb the thin line up the left side of the wall. Walk and down climb off to the left.</climb>
  <climb id="59" name="Pommy Slide " fa="D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1987." stars="*" number="6." length="10m" grade="20" extra="">Run out, this route shares the same start as Pelf. Climb Pelf to a 2.5 cam placement and step right. Climb the right side of the block to the top. Walk and down climb off to the left.</climb>
  <climb id="58" name="Bollard Chimney " fa="Unknown." stars="" number="7." length="10m" grade="15" extra="">Distinguished by a group of prominent spikes at its foot, this route follows the first chimney left of the prow. Straight up the chimney, exiting left of the overhang. Walk off left.</climb>
  <climb id="57" name="Sorrow " fa="M. Law, K. Carrigan, 1978." stars="*" number="8." length="15m" grade="23" extra="">Often wet, this route ascends the steep black streaked wall between Bollard Chimney and Southern Crack (Skyline Major pitch 1a). Climb the wall directly. Scramble off left.</climb>
  <climb id="56" name="Great Pets " fa="D. Fife, Feb 1996." stars="" number="9." length="18m" grade="23" extra="">Climb the thin face and cracks a few metres right of Sorrow. Scramble off left.</climb>
  <climb id="55" name="Skyline Major " fa="M. Douglas, T. Terry, Mar 1967. Piton Crack: R. Cox, R. Lidstone, 1962." stars="**" number="10." length="90m" grade="16" extra="↓">Entwined with Skyline Minor but significantly more taxing. Starts left of the conspicuous prow and follows the ridge crest more or less. Four variants lead to a belay on the first platform.&lt;br/&gt;1a. 15m 10. Southern Crack - The easiest variant that climbs the first major line left of the prow. &lt;br/&gt;1b. 15m. Right Hook - Starts up Southern Crack but traverses right after 5m to join up with the Nose. &lt;br/&gt;1c. 15m 15. The Nose - The hardest variant that starts 1m left of the nose of the prow. &lt;br/&gt;1d. 15m. Layback Crack - The only variant to start right of the prow. Up the first crack right of the prow to rejoin the other variants. &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 15. Piton Crack - Up the cruxy vertical crack in the right facing corner. Belay on the second platform directly below a conspicuously flaring chimney.&lt;br/&gt;3. 15m 15. Curving Crack - Climb the awkward flaring chimney that lies left of the crest. Belay on a small ledge just over the top.&lt;br/&gt;4a. 45m 16. Step around right and climb a short ramp to reach the bottom of Bottleneck Chimney. Step through the chimney onto the Third Platform and climb the crack immediately left of the chimney. Follow the skyline crest to Buttress Pinnacle.&lt;br/&gt;4b. 45m 9. Bottleneck Chimney - Step around right and up the ramp to the bottom of Bottleneck Chimney. Climb the chimney (as for Skyline Minor) and continue along the crest to Buttress Pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;4c. 45m. Deception Crack - Climb directly up the crack on the left from the Third Platform, then onto the summit of Buttress Pinnacle. Abseil from the rap station on the Buttress Pinnacle (50m through the chockstones and into the Chasm).</climb>
  <text id="20" class="heading2">Lower Cliff</text>
  <text id="22" class="text">This section contains the majority of routes on Northern Buttress. The climbing consists of crack and face climbs up a steep wall and its sunny aspect makes the Lower Cliff a popular venue in the cooler months. Descent: There are individual rap stations for Raspberry Jam and Crackers (28m), All Systems Go (32m) and Centaur (48m). For other routes in the vicinity, scramble right along the crest to the Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m). The abseil descends in devious fashion through some large chockstones and directly down the Chasm. Further right Boys Games and CEMC are both equipped with rap stations.</text>
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  <climb id="54" name="Jump Ship " fa="H. Jackson, S. Jarman (alt), Aug 1997." stars="" number="11." length="70m" grade="17" extra="↓">A rising traverse that connects the toe of the prow to Centaur to make three colourful pitches. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Start at the layback option (1d) of Skyline Major. Climb this, then traverse across Raspberry Jam and Crackers to the right arête and bridge across Andromeda to the All Systems Go buttress. Traverse across, mantle up and keep traversing to belay on the Pulpit.&lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Follow R-trending sickle crack of Reluctance to a prominent, protruding pedestal. Step on the very edge of this and bridge widely across Pulpit Chimney to Tearaway (crux). Continue up and around arête as for Tearaway, then traverse directly right across Conflict in the Cabal and Pegasus. From Pegasus, go diagonally up and right to reach Centaur. Belay 2m beneath a small roof below the hand crack of Centaur.&lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Climb through the roof finishing up Centaur to the rap station (48m).</climb>
  <climb id="50" name="Raspberry Jam and Crackers " fa="G. Body, B. Kennedy, L. Closs, Dec 1972." stars="***" number="12." length="28m" grade="18" extra="↓ ">Elegant face climbing on the wall left of Andromeda. Harder now as most of the crux handhold has departed. Climb the newly exposed rock in the right-facing corner past a fixed pin. One metre above this, hand-traverse left and up to a left-facing flake. Climb delicately up the thin face above (crux) to a small ledge at the base of a diagonal short corner. Climb the corner, reach left and mantle onto a ledge. Layback onto a block and finish up the short crack above. Protection is spaced, but adequate. Abseil from rap station (28m).</climb>
  <climb id="49" name="Frostbite&apos;s for Wusses " fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jul 1997." stars="*" number="13." length="25m" grade="20" extra="↓ ">Cold feet perhaps? The arête right of Raspberry Jam and Crackers and left of the Andromeda chimney. Gear difficult to place on lead, so pre-placed at crux on first ascent. Abseil as for Raspberry Jam.</climb>
  <climb id="48" name="Andromeda " fa="Top roped by T. Christie, G. Wyatt, Feb 1965. First led by R. Williams, Mar 1967." stars="*" number="14." length="26m" grade="14" extra="↓ ">Once regarded as a serious and insecure climb, this route follows the first major chimney right of the prow. From the base of the chimney climb the line directly to a ledge. Continue up to the Raspberry Jam and Crackers rap station (28m).</climb>
  <climb id="47" name="Discipline " fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Dec 1990." stars="*" number="15." length="32m" grade="20" extra="↓">Contrived but surprisingly good climbing on the arête right of Andromeda. Climb straight up the arête past a small roof (crux), taking care not to stem across the Andromeda chimney. Climb the finger crack above and step right to continue up the wall just left of All Systems Go to its belay ledge. Descend using the All Systems Go rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="46" name="All Systems Go " fa="R. Muhlen, B. Kennedy, 1976." stars="***" number="16." length="32m" grade="18" extra="↓">Ready, set, go. Advanced route finding up the wall left of the Pulpit. Start up the short crack just left of the Pulpit. Move left after 3m and up the flakes to a ledge. Climb directly up the centre of the smooth wall to the horizontal under the bulge, then hand traverse right to the top of the Pulpit. Up the wall just right of the short shallow corner for 3m to reach a small flake crack that takes micro cams. Move left around the arête onto the face at the base of a finger crack. Two ways (1) Traverse further left into the dark streaked recess and up to a small roof. Undercling out right and up to a small stance on the face.(2) Go straight up the finger crack to join the right hand end of the small roof. Continue up past a sassafras bush, up a hand crack to the top to reach the rap station (32m).</climb>
  <climb id="45" name="Reluctance " fa="N. Deka, J. Richardson, Apr 1980. Direct Finish: N. Deka, F. Moon, Jan 1989." stars="*" number="17." length="36m" grade="20" extra="↓">The wall directly above the Pulpit. Climb pitch 1a of the Pulpit. From the top of the Pulpit, continue up the wall above following the finger crack. Step left to a ledge and either bail out easily up All Systems Go or better, continue up the crack and the wall to the right. Descend using the All Systems Go rap anchors.</climb>
  <climb id="44" name="The Pulpit " fa="Unknown, circa 1960." stars="" number="18." length="10m" grade="13" extra="↓">Two short alternative starts to Pulpit Chimney. Start as for All Systems Go and follow the large rectangular flake just left of Pulpit Chimney. &lt;br/&gt;1a. 10m 13. Start up the short crack on the left hand side of the flake and follow it all the way to the top of the Pulpit.&lt;br/&gt;1b. 10m 9. Climb the short crack, traverse across the face of the Pulpit and then finish up the crack on the right to belay on top of the Pulpit. Either rap off or climb the wall above via a dog-legged crack onto a ledge which leads into Pulpit Chimney.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="43" name="Pulpit Chimney " fa="T. Christie, G. Wyatt, 1964." stars="**" number="19." length="75m" grade="12" extra="↓">One of the best beginner routes on the Pipes. The route follows the major chimney midway between the prow and the Chasm.&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Climb the chimney up past the detached chockstones to a ledge below the Canopy Chockstone. Move right onto the face and mantel up onto a ledge from where the chockstone can be surmounted. &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Continue up Bottleneck Chimney (Pitches 4d and 5 of Skyline Minor) and along the crest to Buttress Pinnacle rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="42" name="Pulpit Crack " fa="S. Parsons, A. Adams, 1982." stars="" number="20." length="70m" grade="20" extra="↓">Somewhat contrived as it is possible to step left into the Chimney at the crux. Starts towards the back of the Chimney on the right hand wall.&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Climb straight up the crack to belay on top of chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Climb the finger crack in a corner on the right wall. Continue up the crest to descend from Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m).&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="41" name="Tearaway " fa="D. Hain, K. Kiernan, Jan 1975." stars="**" number="21." length="68m" grade="18" extra="↓">Thoughtful and worthwhile. The crack in the right hand wall of Pulpit Chimney offers an excellent sustained pitch. &lt;br/&gt;1. 38m 18. Climb up the Chimney a couple of metres until you can step right into the crack. Up this and then follow a weakness up and around right onto the nose. Make a few moves up and then step back left and up to the base of the left side of the Great Flake. Continue straight up the wide crack, moving out right to climb the arête to the top of the Great Flake. A #4 camalot is handy for the belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 14. Continue up the crack on the right hand side and through the bulge as for Pegasus. Alternatively, step off the left hand end of the flake and up the short steep wall to finish up Pulpit Chimney exit. Continue up the crest to Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m).</climb>
  <climb id="40" name="Conflict In The Cabal " fa="E. Peacock, L. Bottomley, Nov 1991." stars="**" number="22." length="70m" grade="20" extra="↓">No conspiracies here except perhaps the spaced protection on the top section. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m 20. Follow Subterfuge to the vee under the roof then continue straight up instead of stepping around the arête. Continue straight up the face of the Great Flake to belay on top where a #4 camalot comes in handy.&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 14. From the top of the Great Flake finish up Pegasus and follow the crest to Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m).</climb>
  <climb id="39" name="Subterfuge " fa="D. Fife, A. Adams, Phil Steane, Nov 1982." stars="***" number="23." length="70m" grade="20" extra="↓">The bold start is a great test for self-doubters. The line up the arête between Pegasus and Pulpit Chimney. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m 20. Climb up to the thin crack which splits the bulge. Move up to a rest below a small overhang. Veer left past this and climb the spectacular arête to the top of the Great Flake. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 14. From the top of the Great Flake finish up Pegasus and follow the crest to Buttress Pinnacle rap station (50m).</climb>
  <climb id="38" name="Pegasus " fa="Unknown circa 1961. Direct finish, T. Terry, A. Cross, Nov 1965." stars="**" number="24." length="58m" grade="14" extra="↓">Uncompromising and sustained for the grade. Take baby cams and wires for the chimney and a #4 camalot for the fist crack. Start 4m right of Pulpit Chimney at a chimney with two chockstones. Originally the route finished by traversing left at the steep bulge and into Bottleneck chimney.&lt;br/&gt;1. 52m. Climb to the chockstones then up to enter the chimney. Up the chimney, then climb the corner above to reach a ledge at the top of the Great Flake. A belay here is possible, but awkward to set up. Continue up the fist crack to the next ledge, then up the steep bulge in the corner (crux) past another ledge to the top.&lt;br/&gt;2. 6m. Traverse right and downclimb to the Centaur rap station (48m). .&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="37" name="Xanthos" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Feb 2009." stars="*" number="25." length="48m" grade="19" extra="↓">Sustained, steep climbing that some might see as a mere construct, a gap filler, and so it is... The climbing however is surprisingly good and in places really steep. Takes a distinct and separate direct line up the face between Pegasus and Centaur. Protection is a bit sparse and difficult to arrange requiring lateral thinking in places. &lt;br/&gt;1. 33m 19. Start at the base of the cliff to the right of Pegasus and follow a line straight up the wall, keeping roughly equidistant between the two neighbouring climbs. Follow a faint arête to the right of Pegasus (crux) to a small spike when a step left can be made to the top of the Pegasus flake. &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 17. Step back right onto the wall and trend up and gradually right keeping out of the Centaur crack. Up a steep wall past a good runner to the excellent finishing crack.</climb>
  <climb id="36" name="Centaur " fa="Some bits: A. Cross, R. Lawson, et al, Nov 1965. Other bits: J. Ewbank, V. Kennedy, Mar 1968." stars="***" number="26." length="48m" grade="17" extra="↓">A Pipes classic. This fine direct line starts midway between Pegasus and the Chasm. Climb up on face holds to the foot of a black groove then continue straight up the ever steepening crack through a small roof and hand crack above. Continue up the crack and over a chockstone (crux) just below the top. Traverse right 1m and up to the rap station (48m).</climb>
  <climb id="35" name="Adventure before Dementia" fa="T. McKenny, A. Adams, A. Brooks, Mar 2009." stars="" number="27." length="18m" grade="19" extra="↓">Best do it soon before you forget. Takes the left hand arête of the Chasm. Start to the right of Centaur and climb the face till it steepens. Layback the edge to the top (crux). Protection adequate but a bit sparse – RPs are the go. Belay as for Sideshow.</climb>
  <climb id="34" name="Sideshow " fa="D. Fife, A. Adams, Phil Steane, Nov 1982." stars="*" number="28." length="12m" grade="18" extra="↓">Companion line to Crasm Chack which also provides a good alternative start to Centaur. Start up the thin crack on the left wall near the front of the Chasm. Climb the steep finger and hand crack to a small ledge on the arête. Either abseil from the chain or continue up the right-facing corner, past the scary flakes (as in Crasm Chack), then traverse left to join Centaur and so on to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Crasm Chack" fa="S. Parsons, D. Fife, Phil Steane, Nov 1982." stars="" number="29." length="30m" grade="20" extra="">With sparse protection on the loose crux, the boys were feeling bold when they led this one. Start inside the Chasm on the left wall just right of Sideshow. Step left and up past loose holds (crux) to gain the thin crack line which splits the wall. Follow this and a line of loose flakes on the arête until it is possible to chimney up and belay on the large chockstones at the top of the Chasm. Note - A big rock has come out of the upper section (Feb 2012).</climb>
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  <climb id="31" name="The Chasm " fa="P. Sands, J. Spinks, 1960. Direct Finish: A. Bush, P. Robinson, Apr 1975." stars="" number="30." length="48m" grade="11" extra="↓">A cavernous chimney splits the right side of the Lower Cliff, into which the abseil from Buttress Pinnacle descends. The route starts at the very back of the Chasm in the chimney on the left. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 11. Chasm Chimney: A fine chimney pitch giving access to the southern side of the buttress towards the top of Chockstone Gully. &lt;br/&gt;2a. 18m. Continue as from pitch (4) of the Labyrinth.&lt;br/&gt;2b. 18. Direct Finish. This pitch follows the continuation of the Chasm fracture to the top of the Buttress Pinnacle. From the base of Chockstone Slab climb to the top of a semi-detached flake on the R wall. Step L into the main V-chimney and continue up the crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="30" name="The Labyrinth " fa="Various stages due to T. Christie, R. Cox, R. Lawson, B. Potter, B. Proudlock, T. Terry, G. Wyatt, 1962-64. Stripper Direct: T. Christie, A. Keller, Feb 1966." stars="" number="31." length="56m" grade="9" extra="↓">An amusing excursion with many variants that leads to the top of Buttress Pinnacle. The route starts at the very back of the Chasm at the dark chimney on the right. &lt;br/&gt;1. The Stripper: Energetic body-width manoeuvring in the dark, not suited to the portly. A narrow exit leads to the northern face at the foot of The Little Chasm. Climbs on Little Chasm Buttress arrive at the same point. &lt;br/&gt;2a. 8. The Little Chasm: Climb the chimney to the next cave. &lt;br/&gt;2b. 12. The Stripper Direct: Continue up the original chimney to a chockstone and then back to a stance in the Little Chasm, Godiva's Cavern. &lt;br/&gt;3a. The Little Chasm (cont): An interesting pitch onto the suspended chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;3b. Stripper Direct (cont): A diagonal chimneying traverse leads across the top of the Chasm to the base of Chockstone Slab. &lt;br/&gt;4a. Climb easily up the slab to the Notch. &lt;br/&gt;4b. Killer Crack: This strenuous crack lies on the R above the suspended chockstone. Above the crack a short wall leads to the Notch. &lt;br/&gt;4c. Chockstone Crack: Under the chockstone, on the north wall of the gully, overlooking the Chasm, a steep crack leads up towards the Notch. &lt;br/&gt;5. Balcony Traverse: A short traverse across the N.W. face of the summit block of Buttress Pinnacle to The Balcony, a large ledge 6m below the summit of the Pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;6a. Balcony Crack: A stiff crack leads directly from The Balcony to the skyline a few metres from the summit of Buttress Pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;6b. The Chicken Run: Traverse along The Balcony and back along the skyline.</climb>
  <climb id="32" name="Mira Mira" fa="N. Perndt, April 2013" stars="**" number="32." length="33m" grade="28" extra="Þ">"Mira mira on the wall, who's the fairest of them all?" The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm which links up to Vanity. A funky, bouldery start leads to a lovely technical head-wall. Stick-clip the first bolt and avoid the temptation to bridge across to the other side near the top of the chasm. Finish as for Vanity up to DBB. Fully Bolted, Grade to be confirmed.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="Vanity " fa="C. Shepherd, 1984." stars="**" number="33." length="35m" grade="25" extra="Þ ↓">A sustained route up the Excellence buttress protected by 4 bolts plus some gear. Start up the easy line right of the Chasm (approach from the right) to gain the left end of the blocky pillar. Move straight up the thin wall (gear then bolts) to the horizontal break, traverse right reversing the Excellence undercling (gear) - and climb the right side of the face (bolts) to the top.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="28" name="Excellence " fa="S. Parsons, A. Herington, Dec 1982." stars="**" number="34." length="35m" grade="22" extra="↓">An exciting climb up the steep buttress to the right of The Chasm. Scramble to the top of a blocky pillar below a short right facing corner on the right side of the buttress. Start up the corner but step around left and climb the face (little protection) to the small roof. Undercling left n the horizontal break and climb the steep finger crack to easier ground.</climb>
  <climb id="25" name="Little Chasm Buttress " fa="Little Chasm Wall: R. Bennett, T. Christie, Oct 1965. Opossum Crack: T. Christie, F. Morley, May 1966." stars="" number="35." length="22m" grade="10" extra="">Three small introductory routes, which can be used to bypass the first pitch of the Labyrinth. Start at the base of the buttress below the Little Chasm. Three alternatives: (a) Opossum Crack: From the right hand side of the entrance to the Chasm, climb the crack/chimney between the buttress and the main cliff. (b) Little Chasm Wall: Start at the left of two large semi-detached boulders at the front of the buttress. Ascend the boulders and continue, first left then right, to the top. (c) The crack to the right of the detached boulders.</climb>
  <climb id="27" name="Boy&apos;s Games " fa="R. Parkyn, 1992." stars="*" number="36." length="30m" grade="22" extra="9Þ ↓">A popular climb up the front of the buttress right of Excellence. Start by scrambling up the gully to the right Little Chasm Buttress then back left to a DBB at the start of the climb. Follow the bolts to the small ledge, then negotiate the overlap with some tricky and technical moves, and continue up the face to rap station. Fully bolted. Use DBB at base of route to rap back to the ground.</climb>
  <climb id="79" name="Pension Day" fa="S. Scott and T. McKenny, Feb 2016." stars="*" number="37." length="20m" grade="20" extra="9Þ ↓  ">Unlikely but interesting climbing on the next buttress to the right. Scramble up the initial gully as for Boy's Games to a U-bolt. Surprising: devious games in the vertical plane. &lt;br/&gt;Climb the face direct until forced left onto the arête. Continue up using the wall further left until it is possible to move back onto the face and right arête. At the top of the short hand crack, step up and hand traverse back right onto the hanging face. Stay on the steep wall to the top and a rap station</climb>
  <text id="72">These next climbs on the Plomat buttress are reached by scrambling up to the right of Little Chasm Buttress. Instead of going left to Boys Games, go right which takes you to the base of Game On.</text>
  <climb id="69" name="Game On" fa="Roger Parkyn, Claudio Trefny, Steven Goss, Nick Hancock, Aug 2011." stars="**" number="38." length="28m" grade="21" extra="10Þ ↓">On the buttress uphill and R of Boys' Games and just to the L of the Plomat chimney. Goes to the belay for the second pitch of CEMC.</climb>
  <climb id="23" name="Plomat" fa=" R. McMahon, L. Closs, Sep 1973." stars="" number="39." length="40m" grade="16" extra="">The chimney line 10m R of Little Chasm.&lt;br/&gt;1. 24m. Follow the off-width/chimney past an old peg to a good ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 9m. Continue up the tight chimney behind or over the big, dangerously loose block and out around the top one.&lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Up to join third pitch of Sentinel Ridge.</climb>
  <climb id="65" name="CEMC" fa="G. Phillips, J. Bresnehan, Dec 2010." stars="*" number="40." length="36m" grade="22" extra="Þ ↓">Climbing Edge Memorial Climb. Premature perhaps as the Hobart climbing gym has undergone a new incarnation? Starts 13m right of Little Chasm, 3m further up the steep scramble right of Plomat. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 20. Up hand crack for 7m till its possible to break out L to the face. Up this past 5 U-bolts to the ledge and single U-bolt belay. Gear required #.5 #2 and #3 Camalots. Walk L along ledge to the arête. &lt;br/&gt;2. 16m 22. Up the arête. If you finish up the 3m finger crack it is about 21 (requires #.4 and #.5 Camolots). Alternatively, if you finish up the face it is about 22. Abseil from rings.</climb>
  <climb id="84" name="Project" fa="" stars="" number="41." length="" grade="" extra="">The arête to the left of a deep chimney gully right of CEMC.</climb>
  <climb id="80" name="Hand Jive" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, J. Otlowski, May 1989." stars="" number="42." length="8m" grade="20" extra="">Steep, technical crack climbing, with an unprotected face to finish. Directly below Kakapo Corner, the small east facing buttress is split by a clean hand crack which can be easily reached by scrambling further up and right right. Climb the crack past a bulge to the top of the flake, and then up the short wall to the top.&lt;br/&gt;Originally graded 18 in 1989, Dave re-led the climb nearly 30 years after his first ascent and decided it had been a tad under graded!&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text id="13" class="heading2">Climbs from the Notch</text>
  <text id="14" class="text">These routes are acessed from Buttress Pinnacle and are usually done after a climb on the Lower Cliff. They all start in close vicnity to the Notch which is accessed by an 8m abseil from the Buttress Pinnacle rap station into the Notch. &lt;br/&gt;Descent off these routes vary. Yugi and Flying Grandfather have their own rap stations. Teenage Rockstars, No Longer Champions and Rosey Specs join Sentinel Ridge which is then followed to the top of the Organ Pipes. The best way off from here is to down climb nearby Exit Entry (see Rockaway and Amphitheatre area) or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station and walk back down and around past the Darkside to the Lower Cliff.</text>
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  <climb id="19" name="Sentinel Ridge" fa="Unknown, 1962-65. Zigzag Crack: A. Keller, K. Sparrboom, May 1968." stars="***" number="43." length="70m" grade="14" extra="">An atmospheric alpine style excursion that threads its way up the pinnacle skyline of Northern Buttress. Best combined with a route on the Lower Cliff that finishes on Buttress Pinnacle such as Centaur. Abseil 8m into the Notch, scramble across the chockstone and up the crack opposite for 2m to a belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Hand traverse 4m left to the base of a hidden corner. Up the corner, and squeeze through a tight exit onto a platform. &lt;br/&gt;2. 16m. Step up and squeeze through to the back of a chimney in the wall on the right. Up and over a bulge to gain the crest of the ridge. Follow the crest to a mantle move onto a broad ledge on the right to belay.&lt;br/&gt;3a. 17. Seldom done and harder than it looks. Climb the thin crack left of the chimney to an old peg, then up the ever widening zig zag crack.&lt;br/&gt;3b. 12m. The more popular variant that is easier than it looks. Up the chimney and climb around the left side of a wedged chockstone to stand on top. Continue up the chimney to exit right out onto a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;4. 15m. Directly above is a tantalising gap in the skyline. Up, step left and up to the top of a pinnacle. Step gingerly across the gap and climb up onto the belay ledge opposite. Scary, but the RPs help! &lt;br/&gt;5. 5m. Turn the pinnacle on either side (the right side is easier), descend carefully into the notch, cross it and belay on top of the short pillar opposite.&lt;br/&gt;6a. 16. A diificult variant that is best avoided. Climb up left of the skyline to a platform some 5m below the top of the cliffs. Climb the choked crack on the right.&lt;br/&gt;6b. 7m. The classic variant. Turn, face the city, slide into the body chimney and traverse to the chockstone at the back. Fiinish up the dual handcracks. Combining pitch 5 &amp; 6b is possible. To descend, down climb nearby Exit Entry or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station and walk back down to the Lower Cliff.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="18" name="Tombstone Direct" fa="M. McHugh, R. McMahon, C. Viney, Mar 1970." stars="" number="44." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Desperate stuff. Take care on this old-school climb, or you may end up with your own premature tombstone. Start as for Sentinel Ridge at the Notch, directly opposite the Northern Buttress rap station, on the east face of the Tombstone. Up the short crack and the chimney above.</climb>
  <climb id="75" name="Yugi Crack" fa="G. Phillips, G.Rowbottom, Mar 2011." stars="**" number="45." length="15m" grade="26" extra="Þ↓">On the east face of the Tombstone, as for Tombstone Direct. Climb the short crack to a small overlap (#3 Camelot), under cling out R and follow the thin crack line to the top.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="76" name="Flying Grandfather" fa="G. Phillips, W. Bartlet, Feb 2011. " stars="*" number="46." length="18m" grade="20" extra="">Mixed climbing, take a rack as well as your quick draws. Starts on the wall and cracks opposite the main rap station. Scramble over to the base of the wall from the Notch, 8m right of the Yugi Crack, and traverse right and up to gain a crack in the corner, just round the arête. Up the finger and hand crack, through the roof until it is possible to break out left (crux) onto the face. Up this past 3 bolts, lower off from the top one.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Teenage Rockstars " fa="M. Law, D. Bowman, Feb 1978." stars="" number="47." length="15m" grade="19" extra="">Move up and right from the Notch to the north side of the Tombstone. Climb the steep widening crack between Flying Grandfather and Rosey Specs Crack.</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="No Longer Champions " fa="E. Peacock, S. Ford, Nov 1991." stars="" number="48." length="30m" grade="16" extra="">A quaint pitch. Start in the crack immediately right of Teenage Rockstars, and about 15m lower down in some bushes. Climb the jam crack through a bulge and over a bush to a roof. Traverse left under the roof to make an airy step onto a lichenous sloping ledge. Continue to top.</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Rosey Specs Crack " fa="L. Closs, B. Kennedy, Oct 1970." stars="" number="49." length="25m" grade="17" extra="">Scene of some early epics. Start a couple of metres above the Notch where small holds lead 3m right to the chimney on the north side of the Tombstone. Follow the chimney past a ledge until a crack can be reached on the left. Jam a couple of metres up the crack and then follow a line right to another crack that continues to the top.</climb>
  <text id="86" class="heading2">Upper Cliff</text>
  <text id="5" class="text">Routes on this section of Northern Buttress are best accessed by driving to the summit, walking down and rapping in. Access from the bottom is possible but less accessible. When approaching from the summit, the top of the routes are located near the top of Sentinel Ridge. To access the base of the routes, build your own anchor and rap in from where Sentinel Ridge tops out, descending the conspicuous line of Kakapo Corner. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Egress: Reverse the walk back uphill to the summit. If you have accessed these routes from the bottom, either down climb nearby Exit Entry (see Rockaway and Amphitheatre area) or abseil from the Amphitheatre rap station (50m) and walk back around Northern Buttress via past the Darkside to the Lower Cliff.</text>
  <text id="83" class="text">A climb called Drunks Dilemma was put up in this area in 1962 by Penny, Lidstone and Peterson. It cannot be located from the original description.</text>
  <climb id="85" name="Cascade Crack" fa="" stars="**" number="50." length="20m" grade="25" extra="Þ">So named as a whiskered gentleman taunted the climbers with cans of beer throughout the first ascent. Originally climbed in three pitches, starting on the lower cliff to the right of Plomat, the first two pitches cannot now be traced and it is best to abseil in from the top to the large ledge at the base of the upper cliff to climb the last pitch. This was previously an old aid line which has been has been cleaned, retro-bolted and freed. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m 25 Up the crack that splits a face to the right of Plomat, and to the left of Teddy Bear's Picnic, then move right and up the corner past the overhang. Three U-bolts protect the first third (technical crux) then a #2 Camalot, small wires and cams protect the very sustained upper crack.&lt;br/&gt;A. Keller, J. Veasey, Apr 1969. FFA: E. Peacock, Jan 1994.</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Teddy Bear&apos;s Picnic " fa="P. Cullen, K. Rosebery, B. Kennedy, 1977." stars="" number="51." length="20m" grade="19" extra="">The obvious corner crack left of Kakapo Corner that is not a picnic. Jam very awkwardly up the crack gaining a few rests on small ledges. Continue as for Sentinel Ridge.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="Kakapo Corner " fa="D. Bowman, L. McLeod, Dec 1977. FFA: M. Law, D. Bowman, Feb 1978." stars="*" number="52." length="20m" grade="21" extra="">Flightless parrots might find themselves in a flap. Follows a shallow corner that meets the final pitch of Sentinel Ridge. Abseil to the ledge and jam the flake to the base of the corner. Continue past a short thin crux move to the top. Finish up the final pitch of Sentinel Ridge.</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="The Nongs Are On Next " fa="A. Adams, G. Cooper, Jan 1991." stars="" number="53." length="35m" grade="18" extra="">The idiots have long since gone, but not the vegetation. The third line right of Kakapo Corner, best accessed from the top by abseil.&lt;br/&gt;1. 17m. Up the wide vegetated crack to a big bushy ledge with large tea tree.&lt;br/&gt;2. 18m. Surmount the large tea tree with difficulty or aid and then up the clean hand crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="6" name="The Numbwaiter " fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, May 1989." stars="" number="54." length="45m" grade="19" extra="">Wide but reputedly interesting. 10m right of Kakapo Corner, at the far right hand end of Northern Buttress, two facing corners form a shallow wide chimney. Climb the right hand crack until forced to chimney, then follow the left hand crack to the top.</climb>
</guide>