Page History

<guide version="3" pagesize="1000" guidestars="**">
  <header access="Turn left onto Safety Cove Road, just past the turn off to Port Arthur (about 200m past the petrol station / store). Drive to the very end of this road and park at the Remarkable Cave car park. A signpost marks the start of a formed track leading towards Mt Brown, and most cliffs in the area are accessed by leaving this track at the appropriate time. Access to Parrot Shelf: turn off to the right at a small sandy creek (after about 30 minutes). The top of the Parrot Shelf cliff is a short walk from here, and the base accessed at the southern end. Access to Paradiso: walk to the top of the Parrot Shelf, then continue south along the shore slabs for another 5 minutes. A short downclimb is required to reach the base of the cliffs, or otherwise abseil in Access to Dauntless Point: follow the track past the sandy creek until it starts to head left. Head a little to the right of the saddle between Mt. Brown and Dauntless Point toward a black dead patch (now regrown with plenty of thick scrub) near the base of the hill. From here, head up to the saddle where upon easy walking with an excellent outlook may be had up along the eastern edge of the cliffs to the highest point. The cliff edge may be followed the whole way to the end of the point, with a rough track providing access through scrubby sections (about 15 more minutes). It is also possible (and less scrubby) to branch off the main Mount Brown track when it starts to steepen (just after the triangular fork) and follow the contour around to the Dauntless/Brown col. Alternatively from the top of the Paradiso follow the occasional cairn up and right across the top of the Paradiso before ascending more directly to gain the top just north of the Dauntless abseil. Access to Mount Brown Main Face: follow the main walking track to a triangular fork below the slopes of Mount Brown and then take the summit track heading uphill. When about 50m from the trig station, turn west and head towards the highest point at the cliff edge (about 1 hour from the car to the rap station). The main walking track continues all the way to Crescent Bay, which is a worthwhile diversion (especially on a hot day), as well as having some additional climbing at each end." autonumber="true" camping="" id="1" walk="20-60 minutes" sun="Afternoon sun" rock="Wave sculpted dolerite, 10-200m" name="Mount Brown" intro="The cliffs around Mt. Brown provide a substantial range of climbing in an exciting setting. Like half of Tassie&apos;s southern coastline, the rock is dolerite, but despite its location directly between Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar, there is not a column to be seen. Huge weathered sheets of featured rock form towering overhanging walls on the west side, while to the east the same formations make even larger slabs.  The steep walls have a heap of potential for some really fantastic cranking, and have already yielded a healthy harvest of classic sport climbs.  Climbs of most grades, styles and angles exist in relative abundance, but arguably the best aspect about this area is the atmosphere. There are few experiences as pleasant as sitting on the warm rocks at Land&apos;s End in the late afternoon sun watching the Gannets dive. Even the evil 170m cave cliff of Mt. Brown glows orange and succumbs to the magic. On the other hand, there are few experiences as dramatic and ferocious as the Paradiso when the sea gets up." history="" acknowledgement="by Marcel Jackson and Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets."/>
  <gps id="2">
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    <point pid="17" longitude="147.86127" latitude="-43.20564" zone="55G" northing="5215989" height="0" easting="569966" description="40 Degrees South; Rap anchors" code="MBR040"/>
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  <image id="3" height="912" width="800" src="mountBrownMap.png" noPrint="false"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="4">DNA Land</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="5">This small area has some good climbs similar to the Cataract Gorge and is largely unaffected by swell. The cliff is found just along from the southern entrance to the Maingon Blowhole, facing Cape Raoul. There are no lower-offs, so use the boulder at the top for an anchor. Approach and descend easily from the south.</text>
  <climb id="6" name="Gene Therapy" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Doug McConnell, Feb 2003." stars="**" number="1." length="12m" grade="23" extra="4Þ">The flared crack passing a small roof at half height, past 4 U-bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="Double Helix" fa="Doug McConnell &amp; Nick Hancock, Feb 2003." stars="*" number="2." length="12m" grade="23" extra="4Þ">The double-sided square arête, starting over a roof. 4 U-bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="Stem Cell" fa="Doug McConnell &amp; Nick Hancock, Feb 2003." stars="**" number="3." length="10m" grade="26" extra="4Þ">Thin bridging up the blank corner past 4 U-bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Genetic Code" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Doug McConnell, Feb 2003." stars="*" number="4." length="10m" grade="22" extra="">Climb the L facing flake crack on small cams to a U-bolt near the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="10">The Parrot Shelf Cliffs</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="11">Of all the cliffs climbed at Mt. Brown, the Parrot Shelf cliffs are among the smallest. However, they offer quick access and a good collection of quality little routes in a pleasant position. The cliff is in two sections, with the lower, LH half being susceptible to waves in rougher weather.</text>
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      <climb>37</climb>
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  <climb id="217" name="The Devil &amp; the Deep Blue Sea" fa="Nick Hancock, Jan 2012," stars="***" number="5." length="30m" grade="24" extra="8Þ   ">This climb traverses diagonally from R to L across the massive sea cave at the Lend of the Parrot Shelf. An amazing climb in a mind blowing position, that looks three grades harder. Climb the first few metres of Low Road and then traverse out L with the hardest move in the scariest position, following bolts to a BB. You will need a few hand sized cams for the belay and the first few moves but then it's all bolts. It's quite easy to reverse the climb to retrieve your draws.</climb>
  <climb id="13" name="Low Road" fa="S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 1994." stars="**" number="6." length="18m" grade="16" extra="">Clean rock, good pro, marvellous position. Destined for permanent classic status. Start at the extreme L end of the lower ledge, just on the edge of the sea cave. Step L off the ledge into the crack and then continue to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="14" name="Lost Sheep" fa="G.Jordan, Sep 1996." stars="*" number="7." length="18m" grade="12" extra="">The first crack system R of Low Road.</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Better Than It Looks, Three Stars" fa="N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 1996." stars="" number="8." length="18m" grade="16" extra="">You'd have to be suspicious of a name like that! Crack system with three small roofs, 2m R of Lost Sheep. A bit thrutchy.</climb>
  <climb id="16" name="Wanker Diver" fa="G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 1995." stars="*" number="9." length="15m" grade="12" extra="">Climbs the juggy wall 10m R of Low Road. Continue up slab when jugs run out.</climb>
  <climb id="17" name="Pib and Pog" fa="N.Duhig, G.Jordan, Sep 1996." stars="*" number="10." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Up the superb pockets and flakes 3m L of Geronimo. Cruxes are at the ground and at the rooflet.</climb>
  <climb id="18" name="Geronimo" fa="S.Edwards, R.Eberhard, G.Phillips, Jul 1995." stars="**" number="11." length="12m" grade="20" extra="3Þ">The steep, eye-bolted wall. Excellent climbing up the overhanging wall on large waco jugs. Climb past a cam and 3 eye-bolts to finish at the ledge with rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="19" name="First Launch" fa="G.Phillips, S.Ford, Jul 1995." stars="**" number="12." length="12m" grade="20" extra="">This lies 3m R of Geronimo. Thin face moves to the horizontal at 2.5m. Continue up shallow corner to large ledge with rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="20" name="Diller" fa="M.Stuver, J.Corbett, Jul 1995." stars="" number="13." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">At the extreme L of the upper ledge, several large blocks can be seen precariously balanced at the top of the cliff (update: these blocks fell off a couple years after the first ascent). Climb the arête below on its L face, passing the balanced blocks very lightly at the top. Not to be attempted by heavy people.</climb>
  <climb id="21" name="Open Cut" fa="P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994." stars="" number="14." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">The next line to the R of Diller. Jam up on the L then bridge and exit via the narrow crack out R.</climb>
  <climb id="22" name="Lay Line" fa="M.Jackon, H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994." stars="**" number="15." length="12m" grade="21" extra="">An aesthetic line. Takes the arête (climbed on the right face) 1.5m right of Open Cut. Balancey moves to good runners at the horizontal, then up the arête and hairline crack (crux) with very small wires. Finish pleasantly past the roof on the L.</climb>
  <climb id="23" name="Black Cockatoo" fa="H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Jul 1995." stars="**" number="16." length="12m" grade="18" extra="">Another good climb. The thin shallow line immediately R of Lay Line.</climb>
  <climb id="24" name="Cirrostratus" fa="D.James, L.Rollins, Mar 1996." stars="" number="17." length="20m" grade="17" extra="">Climb the first 3 metres of Octopussy, then hand traverse L along obvious horizontal crack. Finish traversing at Open Cut and climb this to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="25" name="The Gift" fa="Ben Raymond, Mike Raine, 9 Feb 2004." stars="**" number="18." length="12m" grade="20" extra="">Arête L of Octopussy.</climb>
  <climb id="26" name="Octopussy" fa="R.Eberhard, S.Edwards, Aug 1995." stars="*" number="19." length="12m" grade="14" extra="">The prominent thin chimney between Black Cockatoo and Polly. Better than it looks.</climb>
  <climb id="27" name="Do Worms Eat Finger Tape?" fa="Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9 Feb 2004." stars="*" number="20." length="14m" grade="18" extra="">Climb the gently overhanging scoop just R of Octopussy then finish up easier crack above.</climb>
  <climb id="28" name="No Stove, No Key, No Telli!" fa="Ben Sutton, Hat&apos; Grey, 9 Feb 2004." stars="*" number="21." length="14m" grade="20" extra="">Climb the narrow face just L of Polly.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="Polly" fa="P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994." stars="" number="22." length="14m" grade="8" extra="">To the R of Octopussy is a narrow corner facing R. Climb up the crack and continue to the top with excellent pro.</climb>
  <climb id="215" name="Chimera" fa="David Gray and  Nick Hancock, June 2000." number="23." length="14m" grade="21">Start L of True Grit. Takes a buttress with a 0.5m roof at 3m, finishing on detached blocks (large boulder just back from the top of the climb, serves to locate it). Thin move to roof with jug above the lip. Continue past breaks to thin crack (medium rock to #1 RPs), finishing L over the final blocks.</climb>
  <climb id="30" name="True Grit" fa="B.McMahon, S.Hamilton, Nov 1994." stars="*" number="24." length="14m" grade="17" extra="">About 5m R of Polly there is a rough, L-facing flake up a face. Climb up to the flake (crux), step R into its curving continuation, then finish direct.</climb>
  <climb id="31" name="Dog Barf Road" fa="Ben Raymond, Mike Raine, 9 Feb 2004." stars="*" number="25." length="14m" grade="19" extra="">Climb the scoop just R of True Grit, finishing as for True Grit.</climb>
  <climb id="32" name="Brimful of Asher" fa="Mike Raine, Ben Raymond, 9 Feb 2004." stars="**" number="26." length="14m" grade="21" extra="">Between Dog Barf Road and Kelpie is a fine face guarded by an overhang at 5 meters. Start below the center of the overhang beneath a large undercut hold. Boulder up to the overhang and surmount it boldly. Move up to twin horizontal breaks then make tricky moves up, then L to attain a standing position on small holds on the blunt arete. The top is just out of reach and gaining it provides a tricky crux. Finish slightly L.</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Kelpie" fa="H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994." stars="" number="27." length="14m" grade="16" extra="">To the R of True Grit is a corner with a slightly imposing finger hand crack for its second half. Climb this (it is a little loose at the top).</climb>
  <climb id="34" name="New" fa="D Grey, Jun 2000." stars="" number="28." length="14m" grade="20" extra=""/>
  <climb id="35" name="Cracker" fa="M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 1994." stars="" number="29." length="14m" grade="13" extra="">10m to the R of Kelpie is a face with a steep overhang at about half height. Climb this then turn the bulge with ease. Continue up loose rock to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="36" name="Indigo" fa="R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 1995." stars="*" number="30." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">Climb the face 3m L of Zephyr to a horizontal break at 1/3 height. Follow thin vertical crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="37" name="Zephyr" fa="R.Eberhard, C.Phillips, Jul 1995." stars="" number="31." length="12m" grade="17" extra="">At the RH end of the cliffs is a protruding nose-like feature about 2m up. Climb the pock-marked face to the L of this.</climb>
  <image id="38" height="324" width="" src="South Parrot Shelf small.jpg" noPrint="false"/>
  <text class="text" id="39">Around the corner right of ‘Zephyr’ is a small (10-12m) cliff facing the Paradiso, although the latter is not visible from here. Easier at the top, it is a handy beginners cliff and can still be climbed on when the swell is really high, a not uncommon occurrence. It has been climbed on before, but these descriptions and grades are from Phil Robinson's ascents in May 2009.</text>
  <climb id="40" name="" fa="" stars="" number="32." length="20m" grade="20" extra="">The corner around to the L, difficulty increasing with height. The short crack left of the corner at the top (16) is also worth a look.</climb>
  <climb id="41" name="" stars="" number="33." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">An enjoyable arête</climb>
  <climb id="42" name="" stars="" number="34." length="" grade="17" extra="">The face to the L of the crack, difficult in the middle.</climb>
  <climb id="43" name="" stars="" number="35." length="10m" grade="14" extra="">The crack.</climb>
  <climb id="44" name="" stars="" number="36." length="10m" grade="18" extra="">A nice face climb, although broken by ledges.</climb>
  <climb id="45" name="" stars="" number="37." length="10m" grade="11" extra="">The crack to the R.</climb>
  <climb id="46" name="" stars="" number="38." length="10m" grade="10" extra="">The next crack right.</climb>
  <climb id="47" name="" stars="" number="39." length="10m" grade="11" extra="">The ledges and chimney to the R.</climb>
  <climb id="48" name="" stars="" number="40." length="10m" grade="17" extra="">The face and thin line to the R with an awkward start.</climb>
  <climb id="49" name="" fa="M. Hitchcock and L. Bussolini." stars="" number="41." length="10m" grade="19" extra="">Four meters right of #34 is a bouldery seam which is gained by a short broken corner.</climb>
  <climb id="50" name="" fa="M. Hitchcock and L. Bussolini." stars="" number="42." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">Starts as per #35 but takes the diagonal seam rightwards across the blank face.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="51">The Paradiso</text>
  <image id="243" height="596" src="The Paradiso - Far Left - Blank.png" legendy="8" legendx="8" legendTitle="The Paradiso - Far Left" legend="true">
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      <climb>52</climb>
      <climb>53</climb>
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      <climb>55</climb>
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      <climb>57</climb>
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  <climb id="52" name="Mixed Groceries" fa="S.Young, Jan 2007." stars="*" number="43." length="" grade="17" extra="3Þ">The bolted arête to the L of Shock Wave. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off.</climb>
  <climb id="53" name="Shock Wave" fa="R.Parkyn, Aug 1995." stars="**" number="44." length="13m" grade="21" extra="5Þ">This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route.</climb>
  <climb id="54" name="Lost Souls" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 1994." stars="*" number="45." length="13m" grade="20" extra="">Starts 4m to the R of Shock Wave and follows the overhanging corner, protection is available but hard to arrange. A testing climb up an obvious (but a little loose) feature.</climb>
  <climb id="55" name="Unzip" fa="H. and M. Jackson, May 1994 (Bolted version FA: unknown)" stars="" number="46." length="13m" grade="16" extra="Þ">Originally climbed on natural gear, now retro-bolted.&lt;br/&gt;Climb the easier angled arête on less than perfect rock.</climb>
  <climb id="56" name="High Noon" fa="G.Phillips, Oct 1995." stars="*" number="47." length="10m" grade="17" extra="4Þ">Between Unzip and Sponge Bob climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route.</climb>
  <climb id="57" name="Sponge Bob" fa="E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004." stars="*" number="48." length="12m" grade="22" extra="Þ">Start in the wide crack R of High Noon (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="58" name="Winkle" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Sep 1994." stars="*" number="49." length="13m" grade="15" extra="">Takes the chimney R of Sponge Bob. Very pleasant, easy climbing.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="59">To the R of Winkle the cliff becomes broken, allowing easy (but not trivial) access to the top of the cliff. After about 30m more routes begin.</text>
  <climb id="60" name="Borogove" fa="M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Sep 1994." stars="" number="50." length="18m" grade="15" extra="">Step over the L edge of the puddle into an easy, R trending corner on excellent rock. Climb this to a ledge half-height, then continue up the holey and slightly overhanging arête headwall above on jugs.</climb>
  <climb id="61" name="Stolopin" fa="H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Sep 1994." stars="*" number="51." length="20m" grade="17" extra="">Crank up the initially difficult and steep face just R of the puddle - good gear at ledge. After the ledge at half height, either continue straight up the face, or bolder and better, up the hanging corner on the overhanging arête to the R.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="62">At this point the cliff turns a slight corner and immediately becomes overhanging. This is where the fun starts.</text>
  <image id="244" height="828" src="The Paradiso - Left - Blank.png" legendTitle="The Paradiso - Left" legend="true">
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    <legend>
      <climb>61</climb>
      <climb>63</climb>
      <climb>64</climb>
      <climb>65</climb>
      <climb>66</climb>
      <climb>67</climb>
      <climb>69</climb>
      <climb>70</climb>
      <climb>249</climb>
      <climb>71</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="63" name="Super Charger" fa="G.Phillips, Sep 1995." stars="**" number="52." length="20m" grade="23" extra="6Þ">First line on the overhanging wall. 6 bolts plus a #0.75 BD Cam in the corner above ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="64" name="Belly Of The Beasts" fa="S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 1994." stars="**" number="53." length="23m" grade="22" extra="">About 4m to the R of Super Charger is a weakness up the overhanging face with a downward-pointing horizontal chimney feature at half height. Climb this with the crux entering the stance under the roof chimney with an excellent but bold lay back finish (4 camelot useful).</climb>
  <climb id="65" name="Captain Napalm" fa="S.Edwards, May 1997." stars="*" number="54." length="20m" grade="25" extra="Þ">The line 2m L of Bagpipe.</climb>
  <climb id="66" name="Bagpipe Original" fa="S.Edwards, Dec 1996." stars="*" number="55." length="20m" grade="25" extra="6Þ">3m R of Belly of the Beasts is an overhanging corner. Up this and through the roof (crux) past 6 bolts to a lower-off. A #1 BD cam goes in between the last bolt and the anchor and reduces the runout.</climb>
  <climb id="67" name="Bagpipe Remix" fa="S.Edwards, May 1997." stars="*" number="56." length="20m" grade="25" extra="6Þ">This direct version of the previous goes up the face 2m R of the corner to join at the roof. "A much better way to do the route," he says.</climb>
  <problem id="68" name="Master of Disaster" fa="S.Edwards, Aug 97." stars="" number="57." grade="V3" extra="(Stand)">Not a climb but a traverse. Start by bridging in the Bagpipe corner then traverse R along the base of the wall to finish at Expendable Youth. "To be continued," he says.</problem>
  <climb id="69" name="Thunder Birds Are Go" fa="S.Edwards, Aug 1995." stars="**" number="58." length="25m" grade="24" extra="9Þ">Climb steeply up the face to the third bolt, take a rest then blast up the steep overhang to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="70" name="Kraken" fa="R.Eberhard, Oct 1995." stars="*" number="59." length="25m" grade="24" extra="Þ">Starts 2m R of Thunder Birds. Climb past 2 bolts and follow the crack to the large ledge. Continue up and R into Offender and finish up this (the route originally finished as for Thunder Birds, but the described finish is better).</climb>
  <climb id="249" name="Sac de la Douche" fa="Simon Young, Feb 2013" stars="**" number="60." length="145m" grade="25" extra="9Þ">Sustained climbing L of Offender. Up and R past roof. Clip on U-bolt on offender, head up and L through bulge. Continue up and L onto tricky headwall guarding the chains. (Could only be 25m by mainland measurements)</climb>
  <climb id="71" name="Offender Of The Faith" fa="R.Parkyn, Oct 1995." stars="***" number="61." length="25m" grade="24" extra="10Þ">Another superb steep and sustained route about 5m R of Kraken. Climb to the roof at 4m then continue to the top. Fully bolted.</climb>
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>71</climb>
      <climb>72</climb>
      <climb>73</climb>
      <climb>74</climb>
      <climb>75</climb>
      <climb>77</climb>
      <climb>218</climb>
      <climb>219</climb>
      <climb>78</climb>
      <climb>214</climb>
      <climb>212</climb>
      <climb>80</climb>
      <climb>222</climb>
      <climb>223</climb>
      <climb>81</climb>
      <climb>83</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="72" name="Southern Exposure" fa="J. Bresnehan, 2007." stars="**" number="62." length="25m" grade="25" extra="Þ">Just L of Sultan of Sweat, past a mixture of FH and U-bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="73" name="Sultan of Sweat" fa="Sam Edwards." stars="***" number="63." length="35m" grade="25" extra="11Þ">Brilliant climbing the whole way, with the crux being the roof at 4m. Don’t relax after the final overhang; the final rising traverse R is thin and technical, and will try to spit you off with the chains in sight.</climb>
  <climb id="74" name="No Name" fa="Garry Phillips, Nov 2009." stars="**" number="64." length="30m" grade="26" extra="Þ">The line immediately to the R of Sultan of Sweat. Move slightly L just above the final roof to join Sultan of Sweat, then finish as for that.</climb>
  <climb id="75" name="Expendable Youth" fa="S.Edwards, 1998." stars="***" number="65." length="27m" grade="27" extra="Þ">There's no natural gear on this one. Be careful lowering off on a 50m rope.</climb>
  <climb id="77" name="Snooze and You Lose" fa="G.Phillips, 2007." stars="***" number="66." length="28m" grade="27" extra="Þ" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="59" guide.action="submit">Super good. Climb Expendable Youth to half height, then head L and through the roof and up to chains on Sultan of Sweat (staying right of 'No Name' 26).</climb>
  <climb id="218" name="Project" fa="" stars="" number="67." length="" grade="" extra="Þ">Project - Garry Phillips</climb>
  <climb id="219" name="Smash &amp; Grab Project" fa="" stars="" number="68." length="" grade="" extra="Þ">Open Project, Smash and Grab Extension. Probably 32+</climb>
  <climb id="220" name="Expendable Amnesia" fa="Garry Phillips Jan 2010." stars="**" number="69." length="40m" grade="28" extra="Þ">Link-up. Long and sustained. Climb all of Expendable Youth and then finish up Retrograde Amnesia. Use a long draw on the chains of Expendable and skip a few bolts on Retrograde to reduce rope drag.</climb>
  <climb id="78" name="Retrograde Amnesia" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Ben Ridder, Apr 2004." stars="***" number="70." length="35m" grade="25" extra="13Þ">Another classic route. Climb the juggy rock to a rest, then climb on the R. Trend L under a diagonal roof to a groove. Thin moves up this to finish. Clip bolts 5-7 on long draws (or use a second rope) &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="214" name="Hit and Run" fa="Simon Young, Feb 2011" stars="**" number="71." length="27m" grade="25" extra="Þ">Another classic route, would be 3 stars except for the ledge at 1/2 height takes away from the climb a little. Start up Retrograde Amnesia for a couple of moves before heading R, following hangers up steep wall. Clip one U (long runner), before powering up exposed, techo headwall. Finishes at Expendable Youth anchors. To be continued...</climb>
  <climb id="212" name="Captain Jack" fa="Andy &quot;The Pirate&quot; Richardson, Jan 2010" stars="***" number="72." length="20m" grade="29/30" extra="Þ">The line of hangers that takes the blocky roof to the R of Retrograde Amnesia. Bloody awesome! Finishes at single fixed rap ring.</climb>
  <climb id="80" name="Total Recall" fa="Nick Hancock, Feb 2003." stars="***" number="73." length="35m" grade="27" extra="12Þ">A magnificent route that climbs the massive leaning wall about 20m R of Expendable Youth. Climb an overhanging layback corner to a desperate move R under the roof. Pull L over this then climb straight up, until a move R at the top.</climb>
  <climb id="222" name="Number One" fa="G.Phillips, 2007." stars="**" number="74." length="25m" grade="26" extra="Þ">Starts as for Total Recall, then head L at roof and up to bolt on the ledge. From here, move R and finish as for Total Recall. Can be done just on bolts, or if you like your sanity take #1 and #2.5 Friends for the top.</climb>
  <climb id="228" name="Partial Recall" fa="" stars="***" number="75." length="35m" grade="25" extra="">An easier way to climb the wonderful upper wall of Total Recall, by avoiding the desperate moves under the roof. Climb the initial overhanging groove of Man's Machine, past the first three bolts, place a couple of finger sized cams on long draws then go L over the roof to climb most of Total Recall.</climb>
  <climb id="223" name="Man&apos;s Machine" fa="Simon Young, 5 Feb 2012" stars="*" number="76." length="30m" grade="21" extra="10Þ">The first route after the cliff changes direction, just R of Total Recall. Start up the steep groove, past this onto easy ramp. Layaway up to small roof. Over this then up, stepping R for a few moves before delicately picking your way to the top.</climb>
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    <legend>
      <climb>84</climb>
      <climb>88</climb>
      <climb>213</climb>
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  <climb id="81" name="Random People" fa="Neil Monteith, 3 Jan 2006. (One rest due to slimy rock; has since been freed by another party)" stars="" number="77." length="15m" grade="24" extra="Þ" guide.type="climb" guide.page="0" guide.id="63" guide.action="submit">Near the start of Total Recall the cliff changes direction, this route is about 20m to the R. Follow FHs through rooflet down low (crux) then easily up featured face above past another 3 FHs and a #3 cam slot to a double ring lower-off. The crux is quite out of keeping with the rest of the route.</climb>
  <climb id="83" name="Dominion" fa="M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Nov 1994 (alt)." stars="*" number="78." length="40m" grade="18" extra="">The first route on this section of cliff was a ground-up adventure into the unknown. Significant run-outs were involved but the subsequent bolting of both Random People and Man’s Machine has retro-bolted significant sections of this climb.&lt;br/&gt;Start just R of Random People at an arête-like feature, at the RH end of the relatively short overhanging wall below the major corner feature of the cliff (where it changes direction).&lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 17. Climb the arête (crux) then follow the R trending ramp to a ledge. Trend back L up the crack and ledge system until the juggy rock near the corner is reached (ie the bolts of Man’s Machine about 5m below the roof). &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 18. Move up R, across the face to reach the hollow at the R end of the roof. Scary moves through right of roof leads to easier ground leading left to the anchors on Man’s Machine. Descend from anchors.</climb>
  <climb id="205" name="Six Bells Chime" fa="M and P Jackson Nov 1994" stars="*" number="79." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">Between Total Recall, and K2 a R-wards tending diagonal can be seen about 12m up the cliff. Start immediately below the start of this. Climb the face (the first move is the hardest) to the base of the diagonal then continue along this to finish at the ledge. Abseil from anchors (K2). &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="84" name="K2" fa="G Phillips and A Lewis Mar 2010" stars="**" number="80." length="55m" grade="21" extra="Þ">1. 25m 21 Fantastic rock. Follow the bolts to the ledge (the stars are for this pitch).&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 21 Not fantastic rock. Up to the break and then leftwards and up to next ledge. Quit whilst you're ahead and rap the route (two 30m raps) or one extra bolt gives access to the top.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="85">Below and to the R of the aforementioned ledge is a R facing corner with two crack systems, one on the L wall, one on the R (outward facing) wall.</text>
  <climb id="86" name="Blue Lotus" fa="M.Jackson, H.Jackson, Jun 1996." stars="*" number="81." length="30m" grade="16" extra="">Takes the L line, moving R into the corner at the top to avoid a large, loose block. Abseil from the ledge as for K2.</climb>
  <climb id="87" name="Chasing The Dragon" fa="S.Hamilton, B.McMahon, Nov 1994." stars="*" number="82." length="30m" grade="18" extra="">Climbs the R line. Start about 2m R of the corner, climb a R facing flake which tends L to the line. Follow the line with small wires for pro, past a slight deviation L on the face, to regain the crack system after a metre or so. Continue up to the ledge. Descend from anchors at left hand end (K2).</climb>
  <climb id="88" name="Too Tall Oxen" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Sarah Hedges, Dec 2003." stars="***" number="83." length="30m" grade="22" extra="11Þ">Start just R of Chasing the Dragon, just before a water funnel. Climb the overhanging wall to DBB. A good warm-up for the harder climbs.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="90">From here the ledge drops away into a water funnel (which in bad weather can be quite dangerous) and rises on the other side to a big ledge.</text>
  <climb id="89" name="Vena Cava" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Oct 1999." stars="*" number="84." length="40m" grade="18" extra="">This vital line resisted a number of attempts by different parties before a sneaky solution saw it go easily. The very overhanging corner between Chasing the Dragon and Ilkley Roof, starting at the LH side of the water funnel. Avoid offwidth at base gracefully (inevitably a little run out without a five/six Camalot), then follow steep corner. Awkward exit up headwall to belay at large ledge. Lower from slings.</climb>
  <climb id="213" name="Ready, Steady, Go" fa="Garry Phillips, Dec 2010" stars="***" number="85." length="18m" grade="26" extra="Þ   ">The over-hanging arête to the R of Too Tall Oxen. Fully bolted.</climb>
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  <climb id="91" name="Ilkley Roof" fa="B.McMahon, J.Fisher, 1996." stars="**" number="86." length="25m" grade="20" extra="">Takes the striking corner roof feature on the outward facing nose L of Aquaphobia. A second, runnerless, pitch can be done.</climb>
  <climb id="92" name="Team Caffeine" fa="Garry Phillips, Feb 2004." stars="*" number="87." length="20m" grade="24" extra="Þ">The line of bolts to the L of Aquaphobia.</climb>
  <climb id="93" name="Show Time" fa="Garry Phillips, Feb 2004." stars="*" number="88." length="25m" grade="26" extra="Þ">Climb Aquaphobia to the start of the traverse, then head direct. Sustained.</climb>
  <climb id="94" name="Aquaphobia" fa="S.Edwards, Sep 1995." stars="***" number="89." length="25m" grade="22" extra="Þ">This route starts up the L side of the brilliant, R-facing wall and then makes a memorable rising traverse over to the R side. Power up to the third bolt, then do a delicate traverse R and up to a layback crack, finishing at a rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="95" name="Don&apos;t Ride The Wild Wave" fa="G.Phillips, Sep 1995." stars="" number="90." length="25m" grade="22" extra="Þ">This climb starts 5m R of Aquaphobia (on the same face). Climb carefully to the second bolt then traverse up and L to finish up Aquaphobia.</climb>
  <climb id="96" name="Deep Blue" fa="Cam Veal, Feb 2004." stars="*" number="91." length="20m" grade="25" extra="Þ">The line of bolts to the R of Aquaphobia. Features a hard start and a tricky finish.</climb>
  <climb id="97" name="Carthage" fa="H.Jackson, A.Vincent, Nov 1994." stars="*" number="92." length="28m" grade="18" extra="">The bow shaped corner at the R of the beautiful face. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty with the crux midway up the overhanging section. Abseil from bushes at the ledge to escape, or step left to anchors of deep blue.</climb>
  <climb id="98" name="Ad Parnassum" fa="M.Jackson, B.McMahon, Oct 1994." stars="" number="93." length="30m" grade="16" extra="">About 10m R of Carthage is another crack line (just L of the arête). Climb this, starting at the very base of the crack, with the crux passing through the small roof. Take care of the large loose block which must be passed to enter the final corner crack. Abseil from the bushy ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="99" name="Déjà Vu" fa="Nick Hancock, Feb 2008." stars="***" number="94." length="35m" grade="28" extra="13Þ">Nick’s 10 hours of bolting at the end of 2003, and numerous fear and wave frustrated attempts, finally paid off. One of the most spectacular climbs anywhere! From an isolated ledge 5m R of Ad Parnassum, start at a single bolt belay &amp; climb rightwards, then up to a tiny ledge in an awesome position on the arête. Hard moves above lead into a finger crack, and another opportunity to mess up, before more reasonable climbing to a TBB.</climb>
  <climb id="100" name="Aide-mémoire" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock and Quinn Griggs Feb 2010." stars="**" number="95." length="32m" grade="24" extra="14Þ">Start down R of Déjà Vu on the (sometimes) sea-washed platform. Hard moves straight up a thin seam to join the traverse of Déjà Vu. At the fourth bolt move horizontally right on crimps then up to the next bolt (as for Déjà Vu). Then climb straight up to a step L before finishing up the right-trending groove at a TBB. A 60m rope just makes it back to the starting point (but not necessarily if you simply abseil straight down from the top as that can miss the pedestal that you start from).</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="101">Hades</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="102">Hades. This is not a climb but a cave. The huge mouth can be easily seen from the ledge beneath these last few climbs, but if you have time it's very rewarding to access its southern side (for example when visiting Land's End and the Furnace, or when swimming) since the slabs can be followed inside for about 50m. From here, deep in the bowels of the beast, it's apparent that the cave connects to the east side of the point (presumably the cave at Inferno) since water can be seen entering from around a corner at the back.</text>
  <climb id="208" name="Awake My Soul" fa="Garry Phillips &amp; Simon Young with thanks to Alex Lewis" stars="**" number="96." length="60m" grade="25" extra="">Access: Head out as if going to the Paradiso, but instead of dropping down to the Paradiso continue for 10 mins more up along the top of the cliff. A faint track marks the way. Bolts are located on slabs above Hades on the Paradiso side, facing Cape Raoul (cairned) and are just as the cliff reaches the highest point. All belays fully bolted. One 60m rope is enough to rap both pitches. Ample bolts provide an easy escape if need be. 1. 30m. 25. Tricky sequence off the belay leads up the face on slopey holds (crux). After no-hands rest head R and up to DBB (fully bolted). 2. 30m. 19. Bolts lead up the face till the crack accepts gear. Continue to top. Rack: 14 quick draws (a couple should be alpine draws). Singles of .5, .75, 1 Camalot. Doubles of 2 &amp; 3 Camalot.</climb>
  <climb id="103" name="40 Degrees South" fa="Garry Phillips and Alan Williams (alt) 27 Dec 2005." stars="**" number="97." length="70m" grade="25 (22A0)" extra="Þ">An out-there location! This climb weaves through the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the huge cave arch you can look into from the right end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with some bolt pulling. Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then head up hill and over the top on a small cairned track. From here you can either walk around the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the route. See the access section for GPS co-ordinates. 1. 15m 20. Ascend the interesting face to the belay on top of the pillar. 2. 35m 23. Continue up to the over lap and once over this traverse L and up to belay on large ledge. 3. 15m 25. (Sting in the tail pitch). Climb the interesting water washed over hanging wall above to exit to the R of the roof. Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, helmets and a #05 friend for pitch 2 if you want.</climb>
  <climb id="104" name="High &amp; Dry" fa="Nick Hancock, Feb 2003." stars="**" number="98." length="" grade="20" extra="DWS">Traverse R from Hades to Meadowbank. Beaut climbing at the start with some serious sections at the R end of the Furnace.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="105">Holy Smokes Wall</text>
  <text class="text" id="106">Around the other side of the big cave, as if accessing the multi-pitch 40 Degrees South there is a very steep over hanging wall. There is one route on it.</text>
  <climb id="107" name="Holy Smokes" fa="Garry Phillips, Dec 2005." stars="" number="99." length="20m" grade="25" extra="Þ">Follow the very steep over hanging corner to the lip, then the small wall above.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="109">The Furnace / Land's End</text>
  <text class="DiscussionNoIndents" id="110">Land's End is the area of cliffs at the southern tip of Dauntless Point, regardless of whether that cliff is on the east or the west face. The only access to these cliffs is by abseil (or by a very long swim) but do not be put off. The area is very pleasant (particularly in the afternoon) with good, safe ledges (between 1 and 15m from cliff base to edge) well above the waves on most days and some fairly easy climbs enabling a quick escape to the top if necessary.</text>
  <text class="DiscussionNoIndents" id="111">On the west face, the northern end of Land's End is marked by an abrupt change in the nature of the cliff. The strangely jagged featured rock suddenly switches to a very overhanging wall, the Furnace. While not as tall as The Paradiso, The Furnace is a little steeper still and should receive some more attention in the future.</text>
  <text class="DiscussionNoIndents" id="112">More northerly still, the ledge at the base becomes a mere hanging footpath, and the cliffs become easier angled and smaller. The one ledge is used to access all climbs on the western face.</text>
  <climb id="113" name="Nearing The End" fa="M.Jackson, A.Vincent, May 1995." stars="" number="100." length="12m" grade="16" extra="">Climb the L facing corner only a meter or so before the northern end of the ledge.</climb>
  <climb id="114" name="Haliaeetus" fa="D.James, H.Jackson, May 1995." stars="" number="101." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">10m to the R of Nearing The End is a crack starting in a short, steep corner chimney. Bridge this then follow the easiest line.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="115">A thin ledge exists at the top of the steep wall of the Furnace. Since the climbing above this is only very slightly overhanging, the following two climbs are better done as two pitches each.</text>
  <climb id="116" name="Flesh Flounder" fa="J.Fisher, P.Steane, May 1995." stars="" number="102." length="25m" grade="24">This steep climb takes the crack up the middle of The Furnace which has a small, sloping, hanging ledge at about 3m. Steep sustained jamming required. Finish up the easier wall above.</climb>
  <climb id="117" name="Prayers on Fire" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Feb 1995." stars="*" number="103." length="25m" grade="21" extra="">Ascends the second last and last full length cracks on the R of The Furnace. Start below the L crack and climb up to the horizontal break. Traverse to the R crack and climb this until the L crack can be gained to finish the overhanging wall. Finish up the easier wall above. Originally graded 24 on first ascent...</climb>
  <climb id="118" name="Throne of Blood" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 1994." stars="**" number="104." length="30m" grade="18" extra="">On the furthest R of The Furnace a short, steep layaway crack leads quickly to a slab above. Climb this then traverse diagonally R across the slab, to access the steep hanging corner high on the R (to the R of Pale Fire). Climb this corner to finish (easier climbing in an exciting position).</climb>
  <climb id="119" name="Pale Fire" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 1995." stars="*" number="105." length="28m" grade="19" extra="">Starts just to the R of Throne of Blood and heads straight up the short corner, onto the slab and on up the steep L-tending corner above (to the L of Throne of Blood). Exit the top of this out L onto the face (crux) then up to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="120" name="Burnout" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 1994." stars="*" number="106." length="30m" grade="20" extra="">About 5m L of Stone Biter. Head L up a R-facing wall then around arête to the steep slab. Up to ledge then more easily to top.</climb>
  <climb id="121" name="Stone Biter" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Oct 1994." stars="***" number="107." length="30m" grade="16" extra="">At the top of the cliff and about 10m to the L of the upper corner of Serrator is a chimney feature, overhanging about 45° rightward. Climb grooves below this to ledge then into the chimney. The brilliant crux is stepping out onto the airy arête to exit the blocked chimney, 1m below the top. Highly recommended.</climb>
  <climb id="122" name="Serrator" fa="P.Jackson, M.Jackson (alt), Sep 1994." stars="*" number="108." length="30m" grade="17" extra="">The clean, upper corner of this climb finishes at the last piece of the point which can be easily accessed by foot and can be distinguished by its fawn (instead of blue-grey) coloured rock. 1. 20m. Start in the corner roughly below this. Climb the corner then back L up groove finally to a difficult mantelshelf onto the big ledge. 2. 15m. Up the enjoyable corner.</climb>
  <climb id="123" name="Carrighfergus" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, May 1995." stars="*" number="109." length="13m" grade="17" extra="">Climbs the pleasant face about 5 metres L of Sinkiller. The wall is steeper and more difficult than it appears.</climb>
  <climb id="124" name="Sinkiller" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Nov 1994." stars="*" number="110." length="13m" grade="20" extra="">A short, very overhanging corner is the dominant feature of the R most part of this side of the cliffs. Climb easily up slabby rock to a ledge, then tackle the very overhanging (for Tasmania) corner.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="125">The following climbs are on the east face of Lands End and can be accessed by abseil only (this is easily done from the rocks at the southern most end of the point). Once down, one can scramble around without too much trouble, but no extensive ledges exist. This area has a wonderfully unique atmosphere.</text>
  <climb id="126" name="Marlin" fa="H.Jackson, D.James, Jun 1995." stars="**" number="111." length="30m" grade="14" extra="">An excellent hanging groove leads up to the ledge at which Pale Fire and Sinkiller finish (one can scramble down to this). Start below the groove, at the south eastern tip of the whole point. Climb up to the groove, enter it (crux) and climb it (trickier than it looks). A strong line.</climb>
  <climb id="127" name="Selkie" fa="P.Jackson, M.Jackson, Sep 1994." stars="*" number="112." length="30m" grade="13">This climb takes the line down which the western abseil goes. Climb easily up through the small roof at about 8m then on to the top. The climbing is pleasant although the protection is sparse.</climb>
  <climb id="128" name="Seasick" fa="A.Vincent, M.Jackson, Jun 1995." stars="" number="113." length="35m" grade="13" extra="">Takes a wandering line around the roofs to the L of Persephone. Not very interesting, but might make a good easy escape route.</climb>
  <climb id="129" name="Persephone" fa="M.Jackson, P.Jackson, Sep 1994." stars="" number="114." length="35m" grade="16" extra="">There are two 45 degree angle roofs about 15m R of Selkie. Start on the ledge down lower just past the second of these. Climb the easy corner then move onto the arête above the roof. Climb this arête and face to the top. A little contrived and with long runouts.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="130">Meadowbank</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="131">Meadowbank. A place. Moving further right from Persephone, the cliff becomes an area of easy rock and indistinct gully features which may be variously ascended at a standard of grade 2 or harder, providing unroped upward access for cautious, competent people. A large ledge roughly marks the north eastern boundary of Land's End. To the right of this the cliff steepens once more, eventually transforming into a dark sea cave. The following climb takes the diagonal directly above the lip of the cave, from the right.</text>
  <climb id="132" name="Ishmael" fa="S.Jarman, S.Bray, A.Passmore, Jul 1997." stars="" number="115." length="50m" grade="15" extra="">This route (and Volunteers Abroad) are accessed by abseiling off Meadowbank to a large, chossy ledge just R of Persephone. The attractive line 12m R of the abseil ledge. Beware of loose rock. &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m 11. Traverse Northwards from abseil ledge to an obvious cave ledge full of rounded, bulbous knobs. Belay. &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 15. Climb diagonally up and L of the overhanging roof of the cave to good vertical spike. From this, go up pocket-filled wall with crack on its R, cross over Volunteers Abroad and climb directly to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="133" name="Volunteers Abroad" fa="H.Jackson, A.Roberts (alt.), Jul 1997." stars="" number="116." length="105m" grade="15" extra="">Traverses the strong horizontal line at half cliff-height, crossing above a huge cave and up the major corner L of Moloch. Loose and sparsely-protected. &lt;br/&gt;1. 45m 11. Traverse the hanging slab (20m above sea-level) towards a cave. Belay under roof, above south lip of the sea cave. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 15. Continue traversing, over the cave, then crank out on the R wall to exit from beneath roof. Belay on ledge around arête on R. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 14. Follow large corner with crack above, veering L onto slab to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="134" name="Moloch" fa="B.McMahon, M.Jackson, Oct 1994." stars="*" number="117." length="50m" grade="15" extra="">Abseil down the cliff about 20m north of the corner above the cave. From here scramble to the arete that forms the mouth of the cave. &lt;br/&gt;1. 27m. Climb the east face of the arête (sparse pro) to a very loose ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 23m. Traverse down L and around to the dark face above the cave. Follow the diagonal (spectacular but easy) heading up just before the corner is reached on strange rock (though a little loose).</climb>
  <climb id="135" name="Impalation" fa="M.Jackson, A.Vincent, H.Jackson, Sep 1994." stars="" number="118." length="45-50m" grade="15" extra="">Takes the second arête north of Moloch. There is potential for many very easy slab routes in this area but none would be very good due mostly to poor rock. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Up to a ledge about 5m below the top. &lt;br/&gt;2. 5-10m. Escape to the world above (loose and variable). Not recommended.</climb>
  <climb id="136" name="Inferno" fa="H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Aug 1994." stars="***" number="119." length="53m" grade="17" extra="">A dark and evil classic. This takes the line up the face of the ferocious cave 150m north of Moloch. It is believed that this cave connects with Hades on the other side of the point. Once the cave entrance has been spotted (since it enters the cliff at an angle, it can be seen from the south only), set up an abseil rope (leave it fixed) to abseil down just north of the R arête of the cave (taking extreme care on the appallingly loose cliff top). Scramble round to a spike at the R of the cave entrance (about 3m tall and 7m above the water) to start. &lt;br/&gt;1. 48m. Step down L toward the cave and traverse to the triangular ledge. Climb up and L onto the overhanging face of the cave entrance and on up to the ledge (an awesome situation in rough seas ). Up the huge corner (initially a little loose) until an escape can be made R to the ledge just below the top. &lt;br/&gt;2. 5m. Escape to the loose cliff top. NB: Belaying at the big ledge half way up would give more balanced pitches.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="137">The following climb weaves through the impressive labyrinth of roofs that cap the tallest part of the East Face of Dauntless Point.</text>
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      <climb>139</climb>
      <climb>251</climb>
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  <climb id="138" name="Dirty Equation" fa="Hamish and Marcel Jackson, 1997." stars="*" number="120." length="80m" grade="16" extra="">A disturbing climb with nauseating exposure. It has its fair share of loose rock at the scary bits. Start just below the L end of the cap roofs of the slab of Dauntless. To access, either climb the first pitch and a half of Dauntless OR abseil from the highest point of Dauntless Point (about 45m abseil - 30m of which is in free space). &lt;br/&gt;1. 5m 16. Climb through the bulge forming the L end of the roof to belay on the face below the next overhang. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m 15. A convoluted pitch to pass the next roof overlap. Traverse R-wards until the roof finishes, then traverse back L above the roof to belay about 5m above the previous belay. &lt;br/&gt;3. 15m 16. Climb up to the back of the next roof, then traverse L to the hanging arête (the technical and psychological crux). Climb the short hand crack up the arete to belay on ledge. &lt;br/&gt;4. 20m. Easy. Move along the ledge to the R then climb up easy ground to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="139" name="Dauntless" fa="H.Jackson, M.Jackson, Jun 1994." stars="***" number="121." length="105m" grade="15" extra="">Another excellent adventure (wear a helmet). Although the rock on the slabs to the north of this climb is extremely poor, the rock on Dauntless is at worst adequate and at best brilliant. A little south of the highest point of the Dauntless Point, the east facing slabby cliffs are capped by numerous big roofs. Abseil immediately before (i.e. to the north) the first of these down the edge of a very chossy slab for 55m (best to fix this rope - take extra 15m to anchor from bushes). From here a second 30m abseil from rap slings can be made off the L edge of the slab into the corner and down to a significant ledge about 15m above the water. The rock takes on a different character from here. &lt;br/&gt;1. 40m. Traverse L into the next mammoth corner then up the slab, tending L of the first roof to belay. &lt;br/&gt;2. 20m. Traverse L along the horizontal to belay to the L the roof. &lt;br/&gt;3. 35m. Up the face to another huge roof then traverse L across to a ledge on the L arête of the face. &lt;br/&gt;4. 10m. Up easily to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="251" name="Wu wei" fa="Tim Whelan and Dave James Dec 2012." stars="" number="122." length="100m" grade="14" extra="">1. 30m. Start at major horizontal crack/ledge 15-20m above the sea. Climb cracks and features on slab for several metres before traversing right to a brief bulge/steepening and continue straight up slab to belay at the base of right facing corner feature (not the giant left facing corner a few metres to the right), a more direct start would be possible but a touch harder.&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Climb corner passing small roof on the right and continue up next corner climbing right onto the next slabby wall about where the corner opens up with a little vegetation on your left. belay on the next rubble covered ledge.&lt;br/&gt;3. 40m. Climb up and right, then climb left through weakness in 'rooves' and up poorly protected but easy slabs to the top. It could be handy to leave 10-15m of static rope here to make a decent anchor.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="140">Mount Brown Main Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="141">The main face of Mount Brown itself has seen little attention over the years, possibly due to every sane person on the planet being rightfully terrified of the thing. However, the addition of these high quality and mostly safe multi-pitch routes has started to change that.</text>
  <text class="text" id="142">Approach via the walking track to the summit of Mt Brown. When approximately 50m from the trig station, head west towards Cape Raoul towards the highest point at the cliff edge and locate the abseil anchors on the edge of the cliff (either by using the GPS co-ords listed at the start of the guide, by looking for cairns, or the following description).</text>
  <text class="text" id="143">Once near the edge of the cliff, locate the largest rocky area close to the edge, which is approximately above the highest point of the cliff. There are two distinct trees/bushes right on the edge of the cliff in the rocky area. The top bolts for IHIAB are on the L edge (facing out) of this rocky area, concealed under the L most small bush. It is hard to describe, but look for a cairn and you should find it. The top of TGB is about 25m to the R (facing out), where there is a thick tree 8m from the edge. You can fix a rope to this tree and use it to protect the scramble down to the top bolts, which are on a ledge just below a boulder at the top of the cliff.</text>
  <text class="text" id="144">Be very careful at the edge of the cliff, because there are many loose rocks and the wind gusts can be quite strong. If you fall off the edge you will experience a rather unpleasant landing in the water.</text>
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      <climb>147</climb>
      <climb>149</climb>
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  <climb id="146" name="Time Goes Bye" fa="Garry Phillips, Simon Young (in a team effort), April 2007." stars="***" number="123." length="115m" grade="23/26" extra="(or 20A0)">The first route on the wall. Work was started on it many years prior, then it lay there waiting and begging to be climbed before it was eventually completed! GPS coords (listed at the start, code MBR050) will make finding the start easier. Otherwise, find the I've Heard It All Before raps,and walk 25m North along the cliff top then look behind a large boulder below there. The top rap station for Time Goes Bye is in horizontal rock near the edge of the cliff, extend it beyond the edge of the cliff if you want to pull your rope. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;1a. 30m 23. From the belay traverse L to the big spike, from here head up and then back R to the belay. &lt;br/&gt;1b. 25m 23. From the belay crank through the roof and up to a good rest, then climb the wall above (mixed gear).&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 17. An easy pitch from ledge to ledge. One bolt and gear. &lt;br/&gt;3. 25m 22. Spicy moves off the ledge and the wall above, take a #2 Camalot for between 1st and 2nd bolt.&lt;br/&gt;4a. 20m 20. From the belay traverse up and L to the corner, clipping two bolts, follow this on mixed gear and exit R at the top to the belay. Wires and small (finger tip sized) cams are useful in the corner. Gear up to #0.5 Camalot&lt;br/&gt;4b. 20m 26. The RH line heading direct to the belay. Awesome rock, with fun moves near the top! Could be harder! (fully bolted)&lt;br/&gt;5. 30m 23. From the belay blast up the interesting wall past a powerful crux to the top. (fully bolted)&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Suggested gear list: 60m rope, helmets, 9 quickdraws + 3 extendable quickdraws, medium to large set of wires, Cams (BD): #0.4, #0.5, #0.75, #1, #2.&lt;br/&gt;Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route, an additional rope for rappelling is optional.</climb>
  <climb id="147" name="Talk is Cheap" fa="Garry Phillips and Simon Young, October 2008." stars="***" number="124." length="210m" grade="24" extra="(or 22A0)">Another crazy route on the big wall of Mt Brown. This is the best and most sustained of the trio! This route requires mandatory free moves of grade 22 in order to get out. Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051). &lt;br/&gt;1. 10m 14. From the ledge on the lip of the cave move easily up to a nice stance on the pocketed wall. &lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 24. One crazy pitch! Steep and sustained over the 3 overlaps. &lt;br/&gt;3. 25m 22. Traverse L past and up into the corner. Up this, then back R through and around roof. &lt;br/&gt;4. 15m 16. Up slabs above to the chill out ledge. &lt;br/&gt;5. 20m 20. Plug in a few cams (#2 &amp; #1 Camalot) then blast up the wall to another stance. &lt;br/&gt;6. 30m 23. Head up and R through the steep juggy wall above, passing the Pocket of Love at the top. &lt;br/&gt;7. 25m 22. Move R around the arête, up to #2 Camalot crack and then up the thin layback crack above. Have fun! &lt;br/&gt;8. 20m 19. Continue up the corner above requires #1 &amp; #.75 Camalots at the top. &lt;br/&gt;9. 25m 17. Step R into the corner and then traverse diagonally R to the big ledge (#.5 Camalot if you want).&lt;br/&gt;10. 10m 8. Scramble easily out as for IHIAB. &lt;br/&gt;Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="148">I’ve Heard it All Before is best accessed with the use of three ropes, as the top 40m is best left fixed. Climb the rest of the route on double ropes. Descriptions are given if looking at the cliff (i.e. climbers left or right). From the top of the cliff locate the rap anchors with a GPS (MBR051) or description above.&lt;br/&gt;Rapping&lt;br/&gt;1. 40m Fix 1 rope in hard and make a 10m rap to the ledge, from here re-belay at the next lot of anchors and rap a further 25m to the next ledge.&lt;br/&gt;Thread double ropes and pull them for the rest of the route.&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m Rap over the 23 pitch to Deano’s ledge.&lt;br/&gt;Note: DO NOT rap down the route from here.&lt;br/&gt;3. 25m Rap off the bolts on the RH side of the ledge to reach the next anchors (rings). You will need to Tension traverse R (using bolt high and R) after about 10m.&lt;br/&gt;4. 50m Rap down and right to large vegetated ledge with multible bolts which makes the Traverse of pitch 2&lt;br/&gt;5. 30m Fix 1 of your double ropes to a single bolt on the RH side of the ledge (can be backed up with a bolt on the left) &lt;br/&gt;If you pull your ropes here they will land in the ocean! Climb this bottom pitch on one rope.</text>
  <climb id="149" name="I&apos;ve Heard It All Before" fa="Garry Phillips and Dean Rollins, November 2007." stars="**" number="125." length="200m" grade="23" extra="(or 20A0)">A nice day out that takes you from a ledge just above the water all the way to the top of the cliff. For full value go down when the swell is pumping a monster SW. It's nuts! Rap anchor GPS co-ords are given at the beginning (MBR051), or use description above. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;To Access pitches 1a and 1b: If the swell allows, rapel from the very R end of the Botanical Gardens ledge to a hanging DBB 2m above sea level. (though some days it may actually be 2m below the water). &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;1a. 30m 19. The LH line, starting at sea level (fully Bolted). &lt;br/&gt;1b. 30m 20. The RH line, starting at sea level and re-joining 1a near the top (fully Bolted). &lt;br/&gt;2. 15m 18. The route continues from the L end of the Botanical Gardens ledge. Traverse L past the letterbox slot to the next ledge. (fully bolted). &lt;br/&gt;3. 25m 19. Up corner to short slab, then follow triple cracks to the ledge on L. (take all your cams) (easy enough to link with the next pitch) &lt;br/&gt;4. 20m 14. The fantastic juggy ramp under the big roofs, finishing at The Come Again Belay. Amazing! (fully bolted). &lt;br/&gt;5. 25m 17. Head up ramp on the L then cut back R across the break to nice small ledge above the ocean. Dubbed the Milky Way Pitch! (fully bolted). &lt;br/&gt;6. 15m 22. A bouldery pitch up the steep corner and flake system to Deano’s Ledge (fully bolted - several bolts on this pitch are mild steel and are in poor condition due to corrosion in Jan-2016).&lt;br/&gt;7. 35m 23. Step off L end of ledge and climb the awesome pocketed face to the nice hand crack, then on to the next ledge. &lt;br/&gt;8. 25m 21. Up the crack, then break R to incut flake line and then move back L to slopey finish. (fully bolted) (easy to link with next pitch) &lt;br/&gt;9. 10m 8. Scramble out easily with care. &lt;br/&gt;Suggested gear list: Double ropes and helmets, 10 short quickdraws and 5 long quickdraws, Camalots: 1 each of #.4 #.5 #.75 #1 #2. Screwgates for the belays. Note: this gear list does not allow for rappelling the route.</climb>
  <climb id="150" name="I&apos;ve Heard It All Before Variants" fa="Simon Young, Garry Phillips" stars="**" number="126." length="" grade="20" extra="">&lt;br/&gt;This is how the first pitch of the route was originally climbed:&lt;br/&gt; 30m 12. From the ledge just above the sea and to the right of the botanical gardens ledge, follow the easy crack up the slab and the wall above. &lt;br/&gt; 15m 10. The face and slab above, ending at the Botanical Gardens ledge. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;There are three more variant pitches that go up from the Botanical Gardens ledge to the right of the main route, which Garry has to write better descriptions for: &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;2a. 25m 18 - Straight up from the Botanical Gardens ledge. DO NOT CLIMB as higher pitches need to be equiped.&lt;br/&gt;3a. ??m ?? - DO NOT CLIMB Needs to be equipped with bolts&lt;br/&gt;4a. ??m ?? - DO NOT CLIMB Needs to be equipped with bolts&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="209">Hidden Face</text>
  <text class="text" id="210">The Hidden Face is a new face on the south eastern side of Mt Brown. It provides a great days climbing with 10 one pitch routes at the bottom of the cliff on excellent rock, then the option of two multi-pitch climbs (24 or 21) to get out. The face receives very little sun, but remarkably stays quite dry. Access is via abseil and the only way out is to climb out or jumar, as it is cut off by sea in both directions. It is advisable to fix static lines down the cliff to jumar out if necessary. Otherwise if you are confident enough, pull the ropes (double 60m required) for a totally committed day out. There is a large rock platform at the base of the cliff offering good protection from a large swell.</text>
  <text class="text" id="248">Access: The access to the cliff top is a 10 min walk from the trig point through deep scrub. From the trig point, head in a straight line towards Tasman Island for about 150m. There is the occasional cairn and a rough foot pad. After 150m, there is a cut track down towards the cliff through thick scrub. The track comes to a junction about 20m from the cliff edge. Turn left for the anchors to No Contest, or right for Psycho-Man.&lt;br/&gt;Descent via Psycho-Man: The easiest descent is down Psycho-Man as it is about 50m shorter and not as steep as No Contest. It is also easier to climb or jumar out via this route. From the track junction head west across the hill and then down for about 100m via a rough track to the cliff top. Locate a single anchor 10m back from the cliff edge (back up on a tree) and rap 10m to anchors just over the edge. It is 3 raps to the ground 1.(20m) 2. (40m) 3. (35m) with DBB at each station. &lt;br/&gt;Descent via No Contest: From the track junction go left (east) for about 20m to a neat rock platform at the top of the cliff. There are double anchors at the left end of the platform as you face the ocean. 4 raps down No Contest (145m) and overhanging most of the way.</text>
  <climb id="259" stars="***" extra="Þ" number="127." name="Thriller" length="100m" grade="23" fa="Garry Phillips and Kim Laggies 2016         ">Thriller offers exceptionally good quality climbing. Prepare your self for engaging and technical climbing in a wild location. The route is fully Bolted.&lt;br/&gt;1. 15m 12. Start as for Psycho Man, but then traverse left after a few meters aiming for the large ledge near the start of the sea cave.&lt;br/&gt;2. 30m 23. From the ledge clip the first bolt. Down climb to the horizontal break and traverse left and up. Wild!&lt;br/&gt;3. 20m 23. A bouldery start enables entry to the crack system. Up this to an easier finish.&lt;br/&gt;4. 20m 22. Up the slab above to just below the overlap. Traverse left (crux) and up the line above.&lt;br/&gt;5. 15m 18. Step right and finish up the last few meters of Psycho Man.&lt;br/&gt;Gear List: 3x 30cm quick draws, 1x 60cm quick draw, 14x quick draws</climb>
  <climb id="233" name="Psycho-Man" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Garry Phillips Dec 2012." stars="***" number="128." length="95m" grade="22" extra="18Þ">Starts at the far left end of the rock platform just before a big sea cave. There is a single bolt belay at the base of the route. A pleasant and technical slab climb on good rock all the way to the top of the cliff. The main entry/exit route. Not completely a sport route, see Pitch 3 for details.&lt;br/&gt;1. 35m, 22. Up easy ledges for most of the pitch, but then a real doozy of a move about 5m before the anchors. The face steepens to a big move to a big flat hold. Make another big move directly right before heading up. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m, 21. A superb pitch of great variety. Trend left delicately across the slab to gain flake system. Up this before another delicate traverse to gain the thin layback crack in the major corner. Layback up the corner (crux), then step left around steep bulge to gain the arête, and up to the anchors.&lt;br/&gt;3. 20m, 19. A straightforward corner followed by a layback move on a steep flake near the top.&lt;br/&gt;This climb is fully bolted but some people consider the bolts to be quite spaced. Take a couple of BD #0.3s and 0.4s for pitches 2 and 3 if you don't fell confident.</climb>
  <climb id="229" name="Sea Spray" fa="Garry Phillips  Dec 2012." stars="*" number="129." length="15m" grade="10" extra="">In the alcove at the left end of the main sea platform is a neat system of twin handcracks leading up to a pinnacle, about 3m left of a major corner. Pleasant enough and one of Garry’s finest leads of his career. Abseil ring at the pinnacle. Gear: cams up to #2 and medium wires.</climb>
  <climb id="230" name="Seaweed Groove" fa="Garry Phillips  Dec 2012." stars="*" number="130." length="18m" grade="24" extra="6Þ">On the face of the alcove is a right trending line leading out from the big corner. Up the corner (solo or #2 camalot) then step right onto the face at the 1st bolt for a terrific series of steep layback moves up a thin flake system.</climb>
  <climb id="231" name="Starfish Arete" fa="Garry Phillips Dec 2012." stars="***" number="131." length="18m" grade="19" extra="7Þ">The arête to the right. A fun and exciting climb. Up the groove right of the arête then step left spectacularly around the arête to gain the big flake. Layback to the anchors.</climb>
  <climb id="211" name="No Contest" fa="Alex Lewis and Garry Phillips Oct 2010." stars="***" number="132." length="145m" grade="24" extra="18Þ">The first route up the Hidden Face, a monumental effort by Alex and Garry. Takes the highest section of clean, unbroken face near the middle of the cliff and left of the summit roofs.&lt;br/&gt;1a. 50m. Alex and Garry’s Project finishing at the first belay.&lt;br/&gt;1b. 50m 21. The right hand line. Done in one long pitch from the ground. Has everything from jugs to handjams, Amazing.&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m 24. Contine up the line. Steep and pumpy to crux at last bolt.&lt;br/&gt;3. 30m 22. From the big ledge, climb easily up to the roof and turn it on, passing the roof on the right side.&lt;br/&gt;4. 25m 18. To the top. On this pitch, many bolts are in poor condition due to corrosion (Jan-2015), some can be backed up with BD #0.5 and #0.75.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="241">Right of No Contest is a neat lower tier of perfect grey rock finishing at sloping ledges about 30m up. Some superb one pitch routes here all equipped with lower-offs.</text>
  <climb id="234" name="Rime of the Ancient Mariner" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Garry Phillips Nov 2012." stars="***" number="133." length="30m" grade="23" extra="Þ">Just right of the centre of the cliff is a prominent thin corner. Start in handcrack (trad gear) then left trending diagonal jam crack to gain the first bolt at 10m. Technical stemming and strenuous laybacks up the corner. Near the top of the route is a finger crack which takes 0.5 and 0.75 cams before one last bolt to the anchors. Brilliant climb. Gear: 7B plus cams&lt;br/&gt; 0.5 (double), 0.75, 1, 2, 3.</climb>
  <climb id="235" name="Wagon Wheel Express" fa="Garry Phillips Nov 2012." stars="***" number="134." length="25m" grade="23" extra="10Þ ">Next right is a beautiful line of flakes going up into a shallow corner. About 5m from the top, an amazing step right around the arête to gain the wagon wheel hole, then a couple of thin moves to the anchors. First class route.</climb>
  <climb id="236" name="Brown Love" fa="Gerry Narkowicz Nov 2012." stars="**" number="135." length="25m" grade="19" extra="7Þ">We love it here at Mt Brown. Next line just right of a prominent overhang. Up seam and left trending line to finish up headwall on amazing hueco pockets. Single bolt lower-off at top.</climb>
  <climb id="237" name="Mission Brown" fa="Garry Phillips Nov 2012." stars="**" number="136." length="25m" grade="18" extra="8Þ">Next right is a lovely face climb, probably the best warm up route in the area. Good technical moves all the way to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="238" name="Brown Eye" fa="Gerry Narkowicz and Garry Phillips Dec 2012." stars="**" number="137." length="25m" grade="20" extra="">The neat thin hand crack in a corner which trends left through a small roof up to DBB. Excellent climbing. All trad gear 0.5 to 3 cams.</climb>
  <climb id="239" name="Bob Brown" fa="Gerry Narkowicz Dec 2012." stars="*" number="138." length="25m" grade="19" extra="Þ">Next right is a series of stepped corners with a flared handcrack in the middle. A bit of technical faggotry of all styles with some burly jamming then some thin and obscure bridging to baffle strong, thuggish climbers. Ledges detract from this route. Gear: 6B plus 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75 cam.</climb>
  <climb id="240" name="Brown Sugar" fa="Squib (Bolted by Gerry, you&apos;ve been Narkoblitzed)" stars="" number="139." length="25m" grade="26" extra="Þ">Next line right is a prominent thin seam. Nice layback and bridging moves up the seam for most of the climb (about 21), then a diabolical thin crux in the top corner, followed by an equally desperate move left across the slab on crimps and up to the anchors.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="151">Crescent Bay</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="152">Crescent Bay is the gorgeous sandy beach on the eastern side of the Mt Brown peninsula-ette. There is climbing to be done at the cliffs at either end of the beach on single pitch dolerite buttresses typical of the area. To get there, continue on the main walking track another 10 or 15 minutes past the turn off to the Paradiso to an intersection, where the track heads up to Mt Brown summit. Take the track E towards Crescent Bay. Alternatively (and quicker), park at the end of Dog Bark Road (turn off is 1 km before Remarkable Caves car park) and follow the track that will deposit you in the middle of Crescent Bay.</text>
  <text id="261" class="heading3">The Infirmary</text>
  <text id="265" class="text">The Infirmary is the continuation of the cliff from south veil cliff. As the escarpment rises towards the summit of Mt Brown the cliff gets taller. Fundamentally the rock is better than its sickening pockmarked appearance. The flaky surface layer may take some getting used to though. Abseil in and climb out. A length of static may be useful to make an anchor from shrubs at the cliff top.</text>
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  <climb id="262" stars="" extra="" number="140." name="Dunning-Kruger" length="60" grade="18" fa="Chris Allen, Dave James. 09/05/2015">A featured and direct line near left end of the wall.&lt;br/&gt;1)20m.starting at thin side pulls to featured cracks leading to a small roof at around 8m continue up cracks to belay at small ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2)40m continue straight up featured crack past small ledges. At a longer ledge near the top move a couple of meters right to climb small pockets to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="263" stars="" extra="R" number="141." name="Discount Future" length="60" grade="17" fa="Hamish Jackson, Dave James. 03/02/2013">Mildly unhinged. Possibly not well protected.&lt;br/&gt;1)30m. starting about 3m right of DK climb crack with small spike at 5m. Continue through cracks and briefly awkward slot section to belay on ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2)30m. continue navigating through insane pockets and cracks moving right briefly before final pocket huecos. Finish up easy large cracks immediately right of DK.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="153">South Veil Cliff</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="154">The first climbs described here, at South Veil, are about 1 km SE from the south end of the Crescent Bay beach. To get there, walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs at the SW end of Crescent Beach, deviating into the scrub where necessary, but sticking to the shoreline where possible. You will eventually reach an impressive little inlet that houses the Veil Cliff. On the southern side of the Veil Cliff another cliff extends out of view – the aptly named South Veil cliff. Walk around the top of this, and then scramble onto the wide platform and abseil to the series of slabs and ledges at the base.</text>
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      <climb/>
      <climb>253</climb>
      <climb>155</climb>
      <climb>156</climb>
      <climb>157</climb>
      <climb>158</climb>
      <climb>159</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="253" stars="" extra="" number="142." name="Fijian  police check " length="20" grade="21" fa="Chris Allen, Dave James. 09/05/2014">Start at small sloping ledge/right facing slab several metres above the water climb short crack to small ledge/stance then second thinner crack to stance, up trending left then back right for exciting finish.</climb>
  <climb id="155" name="Chicken Shute" fa="Dave James, Mark Allen, Jul 2002." stars="" number="143." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">Several metres L of Southern Fury follow the crack and slab to a short flaring off-width. Think better of it and step R onto the ledge and finish up the L-facing corner slot.</climb>
  <climb id="156" name="Southern Fury" fa="Dave James, Mark Allen, Jul 2002." stars="" number="144." length="15m" grade="15" extra="">Bridge and layback the R-facing corner then hand-jam the superb crack to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="157" name="Northern Brewery" fa="Dave James and Mark Allen, Jul 2002." stars="" number="145." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">2m R of Southern Fury a short crack leads to the L end of a ledge. Climb featured cracks and wall, then traverse R below orange slab groove to the arête and top.</climb>
  <climb id="158" name="Excuse me while I kiss this guy" fa="Ian Riley and Dave James, Jul 2002." stars="" number="146." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">At a large short R-facing corner, flakes and delicate bridging lead to a ledge on the R and a further R-facing corner and fist crack. An easier start would be to step a couple of metres R, mantle then step back L.</climb>
  <climb id="159" name="Human Beans" fa="Doug Grubert and Ian Riley, Jul 2002." stars="" number="147." length="17m" grade="16" extra="">At the next ledge R of Excuse me while I kiss this guy, a R-facing corner leads to easier ground. Climb the twin cracks and corner, then continue to small R-facing corner and layback to top.</climb>
  <climb id="160" name="Sentient Beans" fa="Doug Grubert and Ian Riley, Jul 2002." stars="" number="148." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">R of Human Beans, scramble to higher ledges then climb cracks to top of blunt arête.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="161">Veil Cliff</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="162">Beyond the last point visible from Crescent Bay lies a concealed treasure. At the far E end of the crag one reaches a tiny promontory looking over the main cliffs. This promontory makes a corner that is Stonespell. The first two climbs have their own little ledge at sea level that is accessed by rapping down Stonespell.</text>
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    <legend>
      <climb>163</climb>
      <climb>164</climb>
      <climb>166</climb>
      <climb>167</climb>
      <climb>169</climb>
      <climb>170</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="163" name="Shegold" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Jun 2002." stars="*" number="149." length="30m" grade="15" extra="">Pretty sweet. The left leading line largely visible from the promontory. From the spike just L of Stonespell, head up for a few metres to make an exciting traverse L. Follow the L-trending jug-trail to a grassy ledge and then press on to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="164" name="Stonespell" fa="Dave James, Ben Rhee and Tim Whelan, Jun 2002." stars="" number="150." length="25m" grade="16" extra="">The thought-provoking corner made by the promontory. You can't get lost.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="165">The following routes are accessed by rapping from the ledge system below and SE of the promontory.</text>
  <climb id="166" name="Fathom" fa="Tim Whelan, Dave James, 26 Jan 2002." stars="" number="151." length="7m" grade="15" extra="">The thin hand crack immediately L of ASCJ.</climb>
  <climb id="167" name="A Sister Called Jamaica" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002" stars="" number="152." length="8m" grade="17" extra="">The arête at the left end of this small wall. Gear and holds found to the right of the arête.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="168">It is straightforward in reasonable swell conditions to traverse R around to another ledge and the following climbs.</text>
  <climb id="169" name="Seagulp" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002." stars="" number="153." length="7m" grade="15" extra="">L of Bob the Kelp Kelpie, two cracks lead to a rounded flake jug. Climb the L crack first, then the R at the flake.</climb>
  <climb id="170" name="Bob the Kelp Kelpie" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Jan 2002." stars="" number="154." length="7m" grade="14" extra="">If you won't get wet feet, step off the kelp onto the wall then mantleshelf.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="171">Playstation</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="172">Don't blink or you'll miss it! The Playstation is situated about 10 minutes walk along the boulder beach and shore slabs from the SW end of Crescent Beach. Whilst it will never be a world class climbing destination, The Playstation provides an alternative destination if the swell is up, or there is a cold southerly at the other Mt Brown cliffs. Descent is simplest by down climbing at the southern end of the "cliff". Perhaps the most distinctive feature is a very neat and clean L-facing corner some 4m tall, to the left of which is a short hand-crack. The following climbs are described left to right from the corner. From the L end of the Playstation wall, another clifflet rises from sea level with an obvious horizontal break called "Lets Get Horizontal".</text>
  <climb id="173" name="Tims Route" fa="Tim Whelan, Marcus Yong and Dave James, Jan 2002." stars="" number="155." length="7m" grade="16" extra="">The L-facing corner at sea-level, which may or may not be splashed by the wet stuff.</climb>
  <climb id="174" name="Lets Get horizontal" fa="Tim Whelan, Marcus Yong and Dave James, Jan 2002." stars="" number="156." length="10m" grade="16" extra="">A fun traverse of the horizontal, beginning higher on the slabs and finishing at the L end of the Playstation wall.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="175">These routes start R of the blank and clean L-facing corner described above.</text>
  <climb id="176" name="Nintendo" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001." stars="" number="157." length="5m" grade="14" extra="">The short wide chimney and R-facing corner.</climb>
  <climb id="177" name="Souper Mario" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001." stars="" number="158." length="5m" grade="15" extra="">The crack system and overhanging block between Nintendo and Dreamcast.</climb>
  <climb id="178" name="Dreamcast" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001." stars="" number="159." length="6m" grade="15" extra="">The L-facing corner and hand crack immediately L of Gameboy.</climb>
  <climb id="179" name="Gameboy" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba (TR), May 2001." stars="" number="160." length="7m" grade="18" extra="">Beautiful climbing up the arête to the R.</climb>
  <climb id="180" name="Wet Wehbas Staircase" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001." stars="" number="161." length="8m" grade="12" extra="">3m R of Gameboy a short R-tending crack leads to the large and easy corner.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="181">Standup Point</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="182">Standup Point is the rocky point south-east of the north end of Crescent Bay. The rock is pretty good; and the routes, while short, are generally very enjoyable. To get there, follow the shoreline from the end of the beach. At the first arch (you will know it when you see it), look for a track continuing to the point heading through the scrub (marked by a cairn.). Further along, you will pass a second arch, near which is a short wall with four distinctive cracks called (L-to-R): Double, Double, Toil, and Trouble. The point is not far past this; all up, about 20 minutes from the beach. Note: the Jackson family climbed here back in the early 90s and may have done some of the climbs listed here before (probably predominately top-roping), but no details were recorded.</text>
  <climb id="206" name="Ripley Holden" fa="Nick Hancock Dec 2006." stars="*" number="162." length="10m" grade="19" extra="DWS">Corner crack on west side of box shaped zawn 5 minutes from Crescent Bay.</climb>
  <climb id="207" name="Blackpool" fa="Ken Palmer Dec 2006." stars="**" number="163." length="15m" grade="22" extra="DWS">The high square arête to the right.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="183">This mini-route is on the first ‘decent-sized’ wall closest to Crescent Bay, which faces E. It can be seen clearly from a vantage point opposite. Scramble down the easy ramp to get to the base (if you are inspired to climb it, that is).</text>
  <climb id="184" name="Lemon Ruski" fa="Dave James and John Stoukalo, circa 2002." stars="" number="164." length="7m" grade="16" extra="">The gritty and awkward hand crack.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="185">The following routes are on the most extensive buttress in the area, right at the tip of the point. To access the spacious ledge at the base, look for a scungy, slippery, and easy-angled corner and slide down this (taking care not to land in the water). A saner, more pleasant option is to abseil in. A good landmark for identifying routes is Free-Range, a fairly distinctive face at the L end of a small cirque of cute routes. About 25m R of this is a small, square cave, which is also a good landmark.</text>
  <climb id="186" name="Fuzzy Logic" fa="Dave James and Ben Rhee, Jun 2002." stars="" number="165." length="7m" grade="12" extra="">10m L of and around the corner from Free-Range. The perpetually wet and impotently short hand-crack.</climb>
  <climb id="187" name="Ascentionists Anonymous" fa="Jul 2008." stars="" number="166." length="10m" grade="8" extra="">The slabby corner is not really worth risking your life over to solo it, but it is actually pleasant enough beginner’s lead.</climb>
  <image id="254" src="free-range.JPG" height="800" legend="true" legendTitle="standup left">
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    <legend>
      <climb>188</climb>
      <climb>189</climb>
      <climb>190</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="188" name="Digital Vertigo" fa="Dean Rollins and Dave James, Sep 2008." stars="" number="167." length="12m" grade="19" extra="">The finger crack just L of Free-Range may be short, but it's pretty spicy. Climb the crack to the ledge, then hop up the square corner directly above.</climb>
  <climb id="189" name="Free-Range" fa="Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002." stars="" number="168." length="12m" grade="14" extra="">Climb the cool chicken-heads to the ledge, then step R to the short hand crack and up to the top. Unusual rock with some very nice, committing climbing.</climb>
  <climb id="190" name="Udopian" fa="Dave James and Ben Rhee, Jun 2002." stars="" number="169." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">Just a few metres R of Free-Range. Jam and stem the V-slot-chimney-hand-crack-thing.</climb>
  <climb id="191" name="Rocquette Science" fa="Dave James and Dean Rollins, Aug 2008." stars="" number="170." length="12m" grade="14" extra="">Up the shallow dihedral (or use flake on the R), then step L to slopey stance and motor up the pocketed head wall. Good climbing that is well protected by small to mid sized cams.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="192">The cliff breaks down for a bit now, but never fear, climbable rock soon returns. The next routes start on a slightly elevated terrace at the R end of the cliff , which is gained with a tiny scramble about 20 m right of rocquette science, swell permitting. Or Abseil.</text>
  <climb id="193" name="Parachute Girl" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002." stars="" number="171." length="14m" grade="15" extra="">Start at the featured off-width 5m L of the square cave. A slightly committing start leads to a welcome rest. Continue up the steep hand-crack in the corner.</climb>
  <climb id="194" name="Know Your Chicken" fa="Dean Rollins and Dave James, Sep 2008." stars="" number="172." length="15m" grade="18" extra="">The line starting at the L side of the square cave, with an interesting crux section up the fused-slot-thing at the top.</climb>
  <climb id="195" name="Black Russian" fa="Dave James and John Stoukalo, circa 2002." stars="" number="173." length="15m" grade="16" extra="">R of the square cave. After a tricky start, follow the line to the top.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="196">The ledge at the base of the cliff terminates for a while, and the cliffs runs straight into the water. This provides an nice opportunity to flex one’s deep-water-soloing muscles.</text>
  <climb id="197" name="Hippy Chicks In The Styx" fa="Nick Hancock, Apr 2003." stars="**" number="174." length="10m" grade="22" extra="DWS">The face and blunt arête.</climb>
  <climb id="198" name="Blow Me Zoe" fa="Mike Robertson,  Apr 2003." stars="*" number="175." length="15m" grade="22" extra="DWS">The blunt arête to the R of Hippy Chicks.</climb>
  <text class="Discussion" id="199">The following climbs are perhaps 15-20m further north (towards Port Arthur) and are approached by abseil. The rock is generally not as good, but it has its moments.</text>
  <climb id="200" name="Axis of Weevil" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002." stars="" number="176." length="12m" grade="15" extra="">2m L of Enemy of the Steak, climb to a grass tussock and continue up the clean laser-cut corner to the L.</climb>
  <climb id="201" name="Enemy of the Steak" fa="Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002." stars="" number="177." length="10m" grade="14" extra="">The open-featured corner L of Smart Bong.</climb>
  <climb id="202" name="Smart Bong" fa="Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002." stars="" number="178." length="10m" grade="15" extra="">Layback and bridge the two flakes about 1m apart on the middle wall.</climb>
  <climb id="203" name="Gravy Seals" fa="Dave James and Dean Rollins, Sep 2008." stars="" number="179." length="10m" grade="13" extra="">Further R, start at featured wall below L end of ledge above. Up past hueco to ledge, then take rib on R to top. Spaced protection, and a shrub belay.</climb>
  <climb id="204" name="Suicide Plumber" fa="Tim Whelan and Dave James, Feb 2002." stars="" number="180." length="15m" grade="14" extra="">This route starts on the next ledge system down, below the manky roof up high. Climb features to the large ledge then bridge up the impending corner.</climb>
</guide>