Page History

<guide>
  <header name="Waterworks Playground" id="1" walk="" sun="" rock="" acknowledgement="By Phil Robinson" intro="“A Playground for Lunchtime” appeared in an article by Les Wood (CCT Circular 113, 1978). Lost in time and the original track now overgrown, this tiny array of sandstone outcrops with its top rope climbs was rediscovered in 2019. A 12-minute walk brings one to an attractive area of bushland with a fine view of the mountain. There are a small number of short buttresses with easier grade routes and one or two harder ones. Waterworks sandstone is of mixed quality. Although the climbs are mostly sound there are occasional loose rocks on the steep ground above which can leach out after heavy rain. Due to the nature of the rock, it is not suited to lead climbing but is an ideal top roping location. Being in a reserve, please do not bolt. There are plenty of trees on the slopes above to secure slings." history="Climbs are described from left to right. In 1978 the climbs were done on top rope by Les Wood, Adrian Bowden and Jamie Kirkpatrick from the Geography Dept. of Utas. Forsitt was top roped by Lyle Closs and David Bowman. New additions were made by Phil and Kim Robinson in 2019/2020 and the area was renamed ‘Waterworks Playground’." access="Drive into the Waterworks Reserve, follow the road to a sandstone toilet block and go straight ahead, do not take the lower road to the right. Continue past the playground to a car park at the end of the road. Walk on a few metres and follow a fire trail back uphill left (east) until one joins a wide fire trail road leading south west up to McDermott’s Saddle. The top of the cliffs can be seen down on the right after a further 9 minutes at a clearing before the road swings left. Scramble down on the eastern (RH end as you face out) side where the rock initially occurs in small buttresses and terminates in a prominent nose, 15m in height, with an apron slab and capped by overhangs. Signs suggest that rock, probably for the early buildings in Hobart, has been quarried from the edge, but much of it does not have the normal appearance of a quarry and provides good climbing in pleasant surroundings." camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <gps id="2">
    <point pid="2" description="Parking" latitude="-42.90910" longitude="147.28998" easting="523670" northing="5249238" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="3" description="Waterworks Playground" latitude="-42.91222" longitude="147.28758" easting="523473" northing="5248892" zone="55G"/>
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  <climb id="3" stars="" extra="" number="1." name="Weir Wall" length="5m" grade="12" fa="L. Wood and co. 1978 alts.1 and 2,  P. Robinson Oct.2019 alts.3 and 4">A small featured wall on a sagg grass covered ledge 4m above the ground. Found 6m left of a small cave with an old fireplace inside. Good climbing on small holds.&lt;br/&gt;There are four alternatives. From the ledge (1) Climb from bottom left to top right. (2) Bottom right to top left. (3) Directly up the middle at a slightly harder grade. (4) The left edge. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <image id="26" src="IMG_1013(Weir Wall, 12).jpg" height="533" legendTitle="Weir Wall" width="800" legend="true">
    <legend>
      <climb>3</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="4" stars="" extra="" number="2." name="Kinder Slab " length="5m or 10m" grade="5" fa="P. Robinson  2019">7m right of the cave is a small clean buttress with a large dead tree at the base.&lt;br/&gt; Start here or for a longer route 5m lower at the base of an easy angled slab. The top of the buttress has loose steep ground above it. Lower off is safest.</climb>
  <image id="27" src="IMG_1021(Harry&apos;s and Sluice,11).jpg" height="533" legendTitle="Kinder Slab and Sluice" width="800" legend="true">
    <legend>
      <climb>4</climb>
      <climb>5</climb>
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  <climb id="5" stars="*" extra="" number="3." name="Sluice" length="10m" grade="11" fa="L. Wood and co. 1978">10m right of the cave is a clean rib cut by a groove. Pleasant climbing up the groove.</climb>
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      <climb>5</climb>
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  <climb id="6" stars="" extra="" number="4." name="Pipe Judder " length="8m" grade="13" fa="P. Robinson   Dec. 2019">Further right is a loose looking buttress with colourful rock architecture.&lt;br/&gt; The climb goes up the middle. Use the tree to surmount the bulge, avoiding the bottom 2m of loose blocks and from the slab above move left to the arete and up.</climb>
  <climb id="30" stars="" extra="" number="5." name="Pipe Judder Direct" length="8m" grade="18" fa="K.Robinson  Jan.2020">Start as for Pipe Judder but do not use the tree. A direct ascent using slopers leads to a ledge and a bouldery finish up the steep orange wall above.</climb>
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  <climb id="7" stars="" extra="" number="6." name="S-Bend " length="10m" grade="13" fa="L. Wood and co. 1978">Further right is a short corner with a large block on a ledge at its base.&lt;br/&gt; Start down below the ledge and right at the bottom of a vague seam in the slab. Up the seam and the corner above.&lt;br/&gt; Treat the top detached block with caution, it moves! Scramble 4m to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="31" stars="" extra="" number="7." name="S-Bend alt.finish" length="10m" grade="14" fa="P.Robinson  March 2020">Climb the seam as for S-Bend, step right and up the headwall.</climb>
  <climb id="8" stars="*" extra="" number="8." name="Sinker" length="10m" grade="16/17" fa="P.Robinson  March 2020      ">The wall 1.5m right of S- Bend has been cleaned. Climb directly up the slab to a pleasant headwall finish.</climb>
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      <climb>7</climb>
      <climb>31</climb>
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  <climb id="9" stars="" extra="" number="9." name="U-Bend" length="10m" grade="15" fa="1st ascent (gr.14) L. Wood and co. 1978,  post block removal ascent P. Robinson 2019">1.5m right again is a groove. Follow it, step left at the top where a large loose block has now been removed and ascend the bulge. Trend left; a steep scramble leads to the top.</climb>
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      <climb>9</climb>
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  <climb id="10" stars="" extra="" number="10." name="Hot Tap" length="14m" grade="14" fa="First 5m L. Wood and co. 1978,  remainder P. Robinson Dec. 2019">Further right is a small wall (5m) that provides a few interesting moves (gr.13) then steep scrambling to the top (1978),the latter now covered in lichen.&lt;br/&gt; A better finish is to move right at a ledge after the initial wall,up the easy cleaned slab overlooking the main wall to a large ledge and climb the middle of the bulging headwall on the left.&lt;br/&gt; An alternative finish is further left where the headwall overhangs more.</climb>
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      <climb>10</climb>
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      <climb>10</climb>
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  <text id="36" class="text">Right again is the highest section of the edge. A slab apron at the base leads to a series of bulges below the final roofs</text>
  <image id="37" src="IMG_5706b(main cliff).jpg" height="675" legend="true" legendTitle="Waterworks Playground Main Cliff" width="900">
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      <climb>12</climb>
      <climb>13</climb>
      <climb>14</climb>
      <climb>15</climb>
      <climb>16</climb>
      <climb>17</climb>
      <climb>19</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="12" stars="" extra="" number="11." name="Forsitt " length="12m" grade="17/18" fa="L. Closs and D. Bowman 1978">1978 description “The left-hand end of the apron is marked by a prominent diagonal junction. Follow the line and exit left.”<.”&lt;br/&gt;(The exit location is uncertain, it could be the crack or elsewhere. Forsitt was originally graded 17)</climb>
  <climb id="13" stars="*" extra="" number="12." name="Kim’s Climb      " length="14m" grade="18" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson 2019/2020.  ">2m R of Forsitt, climb the thin slab past some spaced pockets to a sloping ledge, cross the diagonal crack low down and take the rib directly above to a ledge. Top out over the bulge.</climb>
  <climb id="14" stars="" extra="" number="13." name="Left Wall" length="12m" grade="18" fa="K. Robinson Jan. 2020">Follow ‘Kim’s Climb’ to a ledge then climb the steep wall on the left which has had extensive cleaning.</climb>
  <climb id="15" stars="*" extra="" number="14." name="Fresh Water" length="15m" grade="17" fa="P. Robinson   Dec. 2019">Varied climbing, a slab, a steep wall and a crack to finish. Start toward the middle of the apron just left of the overhang.&lt;br/&gt; Climb the slab to a thin edge a few metres up and follow the smooth slab above to a ledge at the foot of a steep wall.&lt;br/&gt; Climb directly up the wall and exit just left of the overhangs up the corner crack and mini wall above it.</climb>
  <climb id="16" stars="" extra="(crack only)" number="15." name="Diagonal Crack" length="12m" grade="15 " fa=" P. Robinson  Dec. 2019 ">Climb the bottom slab as for ‘Fresh Water’ and take the diagonal crack on the left.</climb>
  <climb id="17" stars="*" extra="" number="16." name="Plumbline" length="15m" grade="18" fa="P. Robinson March 2020">A direct line up the middle of the wall finishing through the overhang.Start in the middle of the apron below the overhang.&lt;br/&gt; Up the slab for 3m to a narrow ledge and continue up the smooth slabtoslab to a shallow groove in the wall right of a soft rock band.&lt;br/&gt; Climb the groove to a ledge below the overhang and go directly over the roof where it is undercut by a square cut corner as for ‘High Gurgle’ direct finish.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <image id="38" src="IMG_1052(High Gurgle and Pipe Dream, 14).jpg" height="601" width="400" legend="true" legendTitle="Main Cliff RHS">
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    <legend>
      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>20</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="19" stars="" extra="" number="17." name="Pipe Dream" length="15m" grade="14" fa="P.Robinson  Nov. 2019">At the right-hand end of the apron follow the slab for 7m to a ledge keeping out of the easy groove on the right. Continue directly up the steep wall above, the difficulty increases with height.</climb>
  <climb id="20" stars="" extra="" number="18." name="High Gurgle" length="15m" grade="13/16" fa="Les Wood 1978">A rambling route traversing under the overhangs. Original description “Follow the easy groove at the right-hand end of the apron to the final steep wall.&lt;br/&gt; Traverse left below the overhangs and exit up the obvious corner."&lt;br/&gt; "An exhilarating alternative finish is provided by going directly over the roof where it is undercut by a square cut corner.”</climb>
</guide>