Page History

<guide pagesize="500" version="3">
  <header access="From the Ferry terminus (timetable published daily in the Mercury) drive south on the B66 past the Neck to theLunawanna. roadTurn junctionright where the C630 turns off left to Adventure Bay. For the Lighthouse Cliffs, continue as far south as you can, via Lunawanna,on to the C629 and follow road to the Lighthouse. Parking is available close by (approximately 2hr from Hobart if coordinated with the carold ferry). cottages.&lt;br/&gt;NB The gate to the lighthouse area is closed from 4.30pm till 9.30 am. For Fluted Cape and the Bruny Stack, turn left on the C630 and drive to the south end of Adventure Bay Beach and boat ramp. &lt;br/&gt;Time from Hobart approximately 2hr if coordinated with the car ferry.&lt;br/&gt;Park entry fees apply" acknowledgement="By Tony McKenny and passesNeale areSmith available(with fromadditional the D&apos;Entrcasteaux Visitors Centre at Kettering, or at registration booths at the Neck and the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay)." acknowledgement="By Tony McKenny (With additional contributions from P. Robinson, I.contributions from P. Robinson, I. Snape and B. Baxter)" history="" intro="SouthCape Bruny Island has a number of stunning dolerite sea cliffs thatin arethe relatively easily accessible from HobartLighthouse area. The rockmajority is dolerite,are rangingslightly from the off-vertical cliffsbut of the Lighthouse area, to the soaring, and largely unclimbed, vertical corners, faces and stacks on the east side.  Like alllike most coastal cliffs, routes may need some cleaning before use butalthough generally the rock is good. However, the top of mostsome cliffs is loose and unconsolidated and needs particular care. As great a danger is probably wave action, particularly when a southerly is blowing, although most cliffs explored so far have at least some climbs accessible at any state of the tide. There are still many lines and crags to be explored but the drive from Hobart, and the cost of the ferry fare, may deter the masses." name="Cape Bruny" rock="Vertical to slabby dolerite" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="" name="Cape Bruny" rock="Vertical to slabby dolerite" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="10-30 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="2">Camping: The nearest campsite to the Lighthouse area is a couple of kilometres before the lighthouse at Great Taylors Bay, on the right down Jetty Road (signposted). Bush toilets are available but bring your own water.Accommodation was also available in the old Lighthouse Keepers Cottages but is closed till new tenants are found (Oct 2012). For Adventure Bay, there are numerous B and Bs available, and camping at the Adventure Bay Camp Ground: accommodation can be heavily booked in the summer season is a couple of kilometres before the lighthouse at Great Taylors Bay, on the right down Jetty Road (signposted). Bush toilets are available but bring your own water.</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="brunyMap.png" width="" id="3" height="842"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="4">Quiet Bay</text>
  <text class="text" id="5">Follow the open ridge top through the burnt areas (2002) N. W. from the Lighthouse gate and scramble down the steep slope to the Bay. About 30 minutes.</text>
  <image noPrint="true" src="Cliff on Quiet Bay.jpg" width="" id="6" height="443"/>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="45m" name="Lest We Forget" number="" stars="*" id="7" fa="T. &amp; J. McKenny, 25 Apr 2003.">Excellent crack climbing, death on a stick finish. Start by soloing round to the left onto the large ledge. May be difficult in a high sea. The climb follows a sinuous groove at the left hand edge of the ledge, where the kelp starts. Belay back on the dry part of the ledge. Step across to the bottom of the crack, trying to keep your feet dry. Straight up the crack to the top. Ideally you would place a bolt here and abseil off: more likely you will fight your way through vertical crud to the top, wishing fervently you were somewhere else. (It may be preferable to belay at half height to give you enough rope to get through the crud at the top).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="70m" name="Jingerbread Haven" number="" stars="" id="8" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, 22 Apr1979.">Interesting climbing marred by loose rock. Start approximately 10m from the water, an obvious black overhang 8m above. 1. 35m. Climb the crack passing the overhang on the left. Follow the line past a huge loose block to a jam-crack (crux) which leads to a ledge on the left. 2. 35m. Climb crack for 3m, traverse right under a projecting rock to easier but steep unconsolidated ground on a vegetated slope (sounds dreadful!).</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="9">Courts Bay</text>
  <text class="text" id="10">Two cliffs, one 32m high and the other 50m, have been extensively climbed visitedon here but other smaller buttresses would also probably yield some climbs over the years, and more recently a smaller buttress on the beach approach. The rock is unusual for dolerite as the cliffs are all off-vertical, providing less strenuous and gentler climbing than is typical for this type of rock.</text>
  <text id="100" class="heading3">Accompaniment Crag</text>
  <text id="101" class="text">Access as for Curry Cliffs.&lt;br/&gt;Just before Curry Cliffs proper, there is a small outcrop at the cliff end of the bouldery beach. This is Accompaniment Crag. There are 3 short but worthwhile trad lines for a bit of fun. Can walk off with care - back and down left. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <climb id="102" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Poppadoms on The Side" length="" grade="15" fa="Neale Smith, Andrew Davies, Sarah Franzen , 14 July, 2020">On the left hand end of the outcrop. The left trending finger crack. Small cams and a small stopper or 2 - a little awkward to arrange. &lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="103" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Mango Chutney" length="" grade="12" fa="Andrew Davies, Sarah Franzen, Neale Smith,  14 July 2020">The main crack line up middle of outcrop - good pro and pleasant climbing.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="104" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Coconut Cream" length="" grade="11" fa="Sarah Franzen, Andrew Davies , 14 July  2020">The shallow groove on right. Pro in crack just right of the groove itself.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="11">Curry Cliffs</text>
  <text class="text" id="12">Walk up towards old lighthouse and head off left across the paddocks just after you pass the generator sheds, towards the new solar powered lighthouse. Cut down to the bay on the right (Courts Bay) and follow the shoreline back west to the crag. This cliff cuts the beach at right angles and features a series of shallow, gentle-angled square cut grooves. A prominent feature is a short broken ramp about 6m up, almost above the high water mark. There is a fixed abseil point above Tandoori - the old tat has been replaced by a 316 stainless steel chain in January 2016. As with all rap stations, please inspect before use. Unless absolutely needed, please refrain from leaving additional tat in other places on the top of the cliff.</text>
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      <climb>14</climb>
      <climb>15</climb>
      <climb>16</climb>
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      <climb>19</climb>
      <climb>20</climb>
      <climb>21</climb>
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      <climb>25</climb>
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      <climb>27</climb>
      <climb>28</climb>
      <climb>29</climb>
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  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="30m" name="I&apos;ll Make Nutmeat Out of You" number="1." stars="" id="14" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.">Traverse left from Lifespice for 10m to a line beginning where there is a pale coloured rock-scar.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="25m" name="Shovels of Cumin" number="2." stars="" id="15" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.">From the high water mark, traverse left for 2 metres under an overhang and follow the cracks to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="27m" name="Lifespice" number="3." stars="*" id="16" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002.">Bridges up the open corner to the left of the ramp and finishes up the obvious hand crack that splits the top of the buttress. Good climbing.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="25m" name="Tandoori" number="4." stars="" id="17" fa="L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.">Climb to the ramp and ascend the crack that leads from its right hand end to the top of the cliff.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="18">(The two short cracks to the left of Tandoori have been climbed at around 10 - 12 by Bill and Patrice Baxter, Feb. 2004.)</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Chilli, Chilli Sauce" number="5." stars="**" id="19" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, 13 Mar 2004.">The narrow arête right of Tandoori. Great position with blankish sections at the top where 'pro' can be found in the Tandoori crack immediately to the left.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="26m" name="Tiqa" number="6." stars="" id="20" fa="L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Aug 1976.">The open groove immediately to the right.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="26m" name="Steamed Rice" number="7." stars="***" id="21" fa="I. Snape, C. Cole, 16 Jun 2001.">The wide arête on the right. Classy climbing.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="22">The next climb is the open book corner (about 1.5m wide).</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="1.5 Groove" number="8." stars="" id="23" fa="C. (Basil) Rathbone, C Strang, 28 Jun 1976.">Climbs the wide corner, bridging to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="22m" name="Annapurna Special" number="" stars="*" id="24" fa="J. Mckenny, T. Meldrum &amp;. T. McKenny, 16 Dec 2002.">Climbs the twin cracks in the left hand side of the corner to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="Shish Kebab" number="9." stars="" id="25" fa="L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.">A narrow groove immediately to the right of the 1.5m Groove.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="Lassie" number="10." stars="" id="26" fa="T. McKenny, V. Van de Vusse, P. Robinson, 13 Mar 2004.">The dirty-looking crack on the right, which is surprisingly not too bad a climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="Nosy Goreng" number="11." stars="" id="27" fa="P. Robinson, C Rathbone, 19 May 1979.">Left of "Shezan" (the prominent V groove) is a wide shallow 'chimney'. The groove on the nose immediately left of this, initially very loose but has been cleaned.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="22m" name="Stackless" number="12." stars="" id="28" fa="P. Robinson, T. McKenny, 13 Mar 2004.">The crack on the right side of the shallow chimney, immediately left of Shezan.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Shezan" number="13." stars="" id="29" fa="L. Wood, P. Bigg, 20 Jul 1976.">The classic V groove with an obvious hand jam crack running through an area of red rock.</climb>
  <climb id="88" stars="" extra="" number="14" name="Piquance" length="10" grade="16" fa="D. James, K Malakoff, 05/04/2014">Thin but widening crack several metres up hill and right of Shezan, on right wall of small alcove. Using second thin crack on right for assistance.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="text" id="30">The ridge of Curry Cliff leads down to a point where the following small climb is located. Either traverse round over the water from Lifespice, or climb one of the standard routes and scramble down from above. The following climb is to the right of the small gulch.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="9m" name="Skullduggery" number="" stars="" id="31" fa="Dave James and Matt Jones, Apr 2002.">At the lefthand of the ledge is a left facing corner and leaning hand crack. A touch awkward.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="32">The Bench. Between the Curry Cliff and the High Court Cliff are two small buttresses; the second, 'The Bench', nearer the big cliff has two routes. Descend to the left via a large block.</text>
  <image id="89" src="brunyLGP.jpg" height="900" legend="true" legendTitle="The Bench">
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    <legend>
      <climb>33</climb>
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  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="15m" name="Lets Get Personal" number="1." stars="" id="33" fa="Dave James and Rhiannon Arkins, Apr 2001.">The corner nearest the sea. The sloping corner leading to a colourful face then belay on prow.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="6" length="14m" name="Guilty Your Honour" number="2." stars="" id="34" fa="Dave James and Christian Wehba, May 2001.">The corner up and immediatly right of LGP.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="35">High Court Cliff</text>
  <text class="text" id="36">Situated 5-10 minutes walk south of the lighthouse. From the lighthouse, follow the track down toward Courts Island for a hundred metres and then head diagonally left to a steep bushy gully leading down to the base of the crag. Alternatively (and probably better), from the top of the gully follow the cliff top round to the right and down through bushes to a cairn. Descend via a 50-metre abseil from some apparently solid boulders above Ocean Highway. The rest of the cliff top is unsafe.</text>
  <image noPrint="true" src="Main cliff - Court Cliff.jpg" width="" id="37" height="438"/>
  <image noPrint="false" src="bruny high court.jpg" width="" id="38" legend="true" legendx="5" legendy="70" legendTitle="High Court Cliff" height="702">
    <legend>39</legend>
    <legend>40</legend>
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    <legend>42</legend>
    <legend>43</legend>
    <legend>44</legend>
    <legend>46</legend>
    <legend>47</legend>
    <legend>48</legend>
    <legend>49</legend>
    <legend>50</legend>
  </image>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="50m" name="All in Good Tide" number="1." stars="***" id="39" fa="P. Robinson, S. Scott, 5 Feb 2004.">On the waters edge, a sky rocketing 50-metre pitch, a classic, must do, climb. Climb the two thin cracks, approx. one metre apart, in the open corner. Take plenty of small/medium cams and nuts... it's a long way!</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="50m" name="It&apos;s All in the Mind" number="2." stars="**" id="40" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, 29 Oct 2006.">The arête immediately right of "All in Good Tide" and left of Ocean Highway. A direct line straight up the buttress. Atmospheric, a bumper climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="50m" name="Ocean Highway" number="3." stars="*" id="41" fa="C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, 19 May1979.">The next corner crack to the right. A fine direct crack line.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Out of the Shadow" number="4." stars="" id="42" fa="P. Robinson, M. Steane, 14 Apr 1979.">1.5m right of Ocean Highway, the obvious corner crack. Move onto the buttress at the very top to avoid the vegetation.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="50m" name="Shadow Variant" number="5." stars="" id="43" fa="M. Steane, P. Robinson, 13 Apr 1979.">Approximately two thirds of the way up Out of the Shadow, step right and follow next line up loose blocks to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="50m" name="Anty-Falaxis" number="6." stars="*" id="44" fa="S. Scott, P. Robinson, 5 Feb 2004.">Next line right, twin cracks followed by a long intimidating V-corner, which is climbed with help from the crack on the left.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Meteor Showers" number="" stars="*" id="45" fa="P.Robinson, C.Hewer, K.Robinson, 21 Mar 2009.">Start R of Anty-Falaxis at twin cracks. Climb the wall between the cracks to a ledge, up the V-corner to a thin crack and carefully to the top. The climb is followed by a 10m scramble.(i.e. 60m total). Like most of the routes here, it is probably best to belay to a fixed rope left before the climb, as there are few anchors at the top of the cliff.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="50m" name="Philadelphia Sidewalk" number="7." stars="" id="46" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Oct 1978.">At the bottom of the grassy slope is a large blankish section of the cliff with three thin cracks. Climbs the obvious line to the L of these, bridging up a groove.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="50m" name="Quintessence" number="8." stars="***" id="47" fa="P. Robinson, K. Robinson, C. Hewer, 16 Mar 2008.">The left of the three thin lines. Nice clean line, position and climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="50m" name="Philadelphia Freeway" number="9." stars="**" id="48" fa="P. Bigg, S. Parsons, Oct 1978.">Up the centre of the three cracks. Turn the bush a few metres from the top by stepping R into the next line. A good looking line.</climb>
  <climb id="87" stars="*" extra="" number="" name="Revival of the Fittest" length="50m" grade="15" fa="P.Robinson, C.Rathbone    4/2013">The thin crack R of Philadelphia Freeway (PF).&lt;br/&gt;Harder at the start. High up, to avoid grass in the corner, move L onto the wall and climb the crack immediately R of PF.&lt;br/&gt;As with all climbs on this cliff, take care with loose rock at the top.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="40m" name="Wish You Were Here" number="10." stars="" id="49" fa="M. Steane, P. Robinson, 14 Apr 1979.">Approximately 8m uphill from the foot of the mud slope are twin cracks, 60cm apart, up a corner. When the cracks run out, move onto the left buttress.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="40m" name="Easter Aftermath" number="11." stars="" id="50" fa="P. Robinson, M. Steane, 14 Apr 1979.">Further up the hill (10m) are two open "chimneys". The route takes the left-hand one. Belay at base of the crack on the left, beneath the chimney. Up the crack for 10m to grassy ledge, then bridge up chimney to exit past bush at top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="51">Courts Island</text>
  <text class="text" id="52">A short walk down the ridge southwest from the Lighthouse leads to the causeway across to Courts Island, which hosts a mutton-bird rookery. At low tide you can walk or wade across (about 50m) but difficulty may be experienced at high tide or in rough sea. Check at the Keepers Cottage if in doubt.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="53">East Cliff</text>
  <text class="text" id="54">After crossing the causeway walk south (left) along the shoreline towards the cliffs. Approximately 100m from where the cliffs meet the sea is an obvious short, clean line consisting of twin cracks. Looks harder than it is!</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="60m" name="Belay in the Burrow" number="" stars="" id="55" fa="P. Robinson,  K Bischoff , 21 Apr 1979.">1. 20m. Up twin cracks to belay on ledge above jammed blocks. 2. 40m. Follow broken rock and vegetated slope to top. No belay except for mutton-bird burrows. Use a threaded sling or rope. (May be better to abseil from top of first pitch).</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="56">Ocean Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="57">Walk over to the far southern tip of the Island. On the southeast side of the tip, above a deep gulch, are some impressive looking cliffs, rising from a shore platform. The routes may be best viewed from the N E side of the gulch. Probably best to abseil down the loose choss from the very end of the point to the wavecut platform and then scramble back round to the east towards the gulch, preferably at low tide and/or calm sea.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="45m" name="Shearwater" number="" stars="*" id="58" fa="P. Robinson, K. Bischoff 21 Apr 1979. (Probably the line of Canute climbed by J. McKenny, T. McKenny 16 Dec 2002)">Walk round shelf into the gulch to a small but distinct triangular roof at about 3 m, at the widest point of the shelf, just before it ends. The climb starts 2m to the left, up the obvious crack. Bridge and jam to the top, passing a ledge on the left at half height.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="59">The cliffs on the seaward side north of the gulch are reached by abseil to a shore platform (facing N E)</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="40m" name="Tidal Temerity" number="" stars="" id="60" fa="C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, J. Wills-Johnson, K. Bischoff, 19 May 1979.">Follow a clean narrow corner for 30m to the ledge. The crack closes near the top. From the ledge climb easily to the top.</climb>
</guide>