Page History

<guide> 
  <header id="1" name="The Needles" walk="25min uphill" sun="All day sun" rock="Flaky weathered quartzite" acknowledgement="By Tony McKenny.    Updated by Phil Robinson in March 2024" intro="Travelling west towards Lake Pedder and Strathgordon, the white quartzite fingers of the Needles (GR 555696, Tasmap 4426, 1:25 000) stand out starkly on the Humboldt Divide, inevitably catching the eye of any passing climber.  With stunning 360degree views over the South West ranges, from Mt Anne to the south and to Mt Olympus  in the north, the range is a popular destination for  bush walkers but tountil 2012 dateonwards nothing seems to have been recorded of any previous rock climbing. The TUMC and TUCC certainly visited the area as have other individuals over the years but details or even any comments on the potential of the area arewere sketchy to say the least." history="" access="The crags are about 100km from Hobart, about 1hr 30mins drive. From Hobart drive north-west on the Brooker Highway (A10) to New Norfolk and then follow the winding road of B61/B62, passing Mt Field, Tyenna and Maydena.  Park at the Humboldt Divide car park 16.5km past Maydena at the “Highest Point on Road” sign (elevation 651m). The walking track starts across the road directly opposite the sign, sometimes  marked by a large cairn. The well trodden track is markedNeedles summit by pinkthe andwell-trodden green ties through low scrub, withtrack is an hour’s climb from the road to the summit if you want to go that far - about 400m to the summit (1020m) and a distance of about 1.5km.&lt;br/&gt;The track passes a number of “Needles” on the way, manywhile ofaway whichto are still to be explored, while away to the the east and visible from the first col on the ridge are further impressive cliffs.&lt;br/&gt;" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">The Thimble</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">The first buttress to be reached at the col (25 mins walk) is the Thimble, a large block of quartzite with a long westerly slab on one side and a shorter wall to the south.</text>
  <image id="13" src="IMG_0109(Thimble)r copy.jpg" height="463" legend="true" legendTitle="The Thimble W Face" legendx="9" legendy="8">
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  <climb id="4" name="Western Slab" stars="" extra="" number="1." length="50m" grade="6" fa="P. Robinson 2012   ">Easy climbing up solid rock, a great introductory route for beginners – or a pleasant ramble for the tyro! Scramble easily down the back to rejoin the main track.</climb>Unfortunately, The Needles were burnt by the severe fires throughout the SW in the summer of 2019. However, ground cover is returning with many plants and shrubs endemic to the heaths and button grass sedgelands of western Tasmania reappearing.&lt;br/&gt;" camping="" autonumber="true"/>  
  <text id="50" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text>  
  <text id="51" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (southwest@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text>  
  <image id="1445" src="IMG_1697Needles(ThePR Thimble2024)r.jpg" height="450533" legendwidth="true800" legendTitle="The Thimble S Face" legendx="6" legendy="11" width="600">
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  <climb id="5" name="Stitched Up" stars="*" extra="" number="2." length="28m" grade="14" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson and S. Scott, Feb 2015. ">Threads a line up the middle off the south face of the Thimble. Start just to the R of a tree towards the RH end of the steep face, climb up and slightly L to follow a direct line to the very top. Thoughtful climbing on generally sound rock with spaced but adequate gear.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="6">Avatar Cliff</text>
  <text class="text" id="7">This large crag across the valley to the east of The Thimble is visible from the col and has a classic line right up the middle with pleasant climbing and great views. From the Thimble, take the easiest line downhill and across the valley through the chest- high melaleuca bushes and button grass clumps on the far side. It is a bit of a roller coaster but only takes 20-25min.</text>
  <image id="15" src="DSC00479Tony&apos;s photo).JPG" height="450" legend="true" legendTitle="Avatar Cliff" legendx="5" legendy="9" width="600">
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  <climb id="8" name="Avatar" stars="*" extra="" number="3." length="65m" grade="16" fa="P.Robinson, C.Rathbone March 2015">Start climbing at the foot of the crag in the middle below a corner which is steeper than it looks. The rock is generally sound but take care.&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Climb the short wall R of the cave to reach the corner and follow it straight up to where it steepens (crux). From the ledge, continue up the rock on the L to a comfortable grassy ledge with a tall tea tree.&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Up the steep wall for a few metres where the angle eases and follow the face and ridge to the top. Good pro is infrequent but the climbing easier.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="10">Needle Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="11">The main track to the Needles summit continues climbing up south from the Thimble and passes close to a prominent needle of rock with a very impressive arête/face.</text>
  <image id="16" src="DSC00486 (1024x768).jpg" height="1024" legend="true" legendTitle="Needle Buttress" legendx="10" legendy="10" width="600">
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      <climb>12</climb>
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  <climb id="12" name="Suture" stars="*" extra="" number="4." length="25m" grade="15" fa="S. Scott, P. Robinson and T. McKenny,  Feb 2015.">Starting at the very toe of the buttress, climb up and over the overlaps, stepping awkwardly R and up at the second one. Up the slabs to the steep finish.</climb>/>  
  <text class="heading2" id="2">The Thimble</text>  
  <text class="text" id="3">The first buttress to be reached at the col (25 mins walk) is the Thimble, a large block of quartzite with a long northerly slab on one side and a shorter wall to the west.</text>  
  <image id="13" src="IMG_0109(Thimble)r copy.jpg" height="463" legend="true" legendTitle="The Thimble N Face" legendx="9" legendy="8"> 
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  <climb id="36" stars="*" extra="" number="1." name="Thunder Thimble" length="50m" grade="10" fa="C. Wansborough, P. Pritchard 6/1/24">1. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and take an indistinct crack directly up the front of the pillar. Follow this to a good thread at the base of a large detached block. Easily avoid this on its left and climb up to belay at the foot of the corner (possible belay for Northern Slab). A lovely pitch. &lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;2. Follow the corner to the top.</climb>  
  <climb id="4" name="Northern Slab" stars="" extra="" number="2." length="50m" grade="6" fa="P. Robinson 2012   ">Easy climbing up solid rock, a great introductory route for beginners – or a pleasant ramble for the tyro! Scramble easily down the back to rejoin the main track.</climb>  
  <image id="14" src="IMG_1697(The Thimble)r.jpg" height="450" legend="true" legendTitle="The Thimble W Face" legendx="6" legendy="11" width="600"> 
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      <climb>5</climb>  
      <climb>27</climb>  
      <climb>28</climb> 
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  <climb id="5" name="Stitched Up" stars="*" extra="" number="3." length="28m" grade="14" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson and S. Scott, Feb 2015. ">Threads a line up the middle off the west face of the Thimble. Start just to the R of a tree towards the RH end of the steep face, climb up and slightly L to follow a direct line to the very top. Thoughtful climbing on generally sound rock with spaced but adequate gear.</climb>  
  <climb id="27" stars="*" extra="" number="4." name="Stitch 2" length="28m" grade="15" fa="P.Robinson Jan. 2018">The next line right of Stitched Up (see topo).</climb>  
  <climb id="28" stars="*" extra="" number="5." name="Stitch 3" length="28m" grade="16" fa="P.Robinson   Jan. 2018">The next line right of Stitch 2 (see topo). Through a bulge at the bottom and another high up.</climb>  
  <text id="29" class="heading2">The Fife Needle</text>  
  <climb id="34" stars="" extra="" number="6." name="The Fife Needle" length="30m" grade="6" fa="C. Wansborough, P. Pritchard 1 Jan 2024">Just before the path reaches The Thimble it passes another tower to the right (west). The Fife Needle is smaller and more amenable than The Thimble and is perfect for beginners of those with lesser ability. The route climbs straight up the face of the tower in 2 short pitches. Descend easily off the back.</climb>  
  <image id="32" src="Fife Needle.JPG" height="533" width="400"> 
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  <text id="40" class="heading2">The Thumb</text>  
  <text id="41" class="text">On the opposite side of the walking track, west from The Thimble and above Fife’s Needle is another block of quartzite with overlapping rock, facing N, The Thumb.</text>  
  <image id="48" src="IMG_9389(Reach for the Sky)a.JPG" height="533" width="800" legend="true" legendTitle="The Thumb" printLayout="auto"> 
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      <climb>42</climb>  
      <climb>43</climb> 
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  <climb id="42" stars="*" extra="" number="7." name="Reach for the Sky" length="26m" grade="15" fa="P. Robinson 12-01-24 (with support from J. Robinson)">Up the centre of the cliff through three overlaps.&lt;br/&gt;An easy angle start leaves to progressively harder and entertaining overlaps. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <climb id="43" stars="" extra="" number="8." name="Jaggernaut" length="25m" grade="9" fa="P. Robinson 12-01-24">The face on right side of The Thumb followed by a jagged arete to the summit, a few metres R of 'Reach for the Sky'.&lt;br/&gt;Directly up the slab to a ledge on the arete. Follow the sharp rocky arete to the summit. Surprising solid, well mostly, but take care.&lt;br/&gt;Whilst the W side of the Thimble is very juggy, it is probably not the best place to solo.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <image id="49" src="IMG_9372.JPG" height="467" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="The Thumb W side"> 
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    <legend> 
      <climb>43</climb> 
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  <text class="heading2" id="6">Avatar Cliff</text>  
  <text class="text" id="7">This large crag across the valley to the east of The Thimble is visible from the col and has a classic line right up the middle. From the Thimble, take the easiest line downhill and across the valley (20-25min.). Burnt out in 2019 so access easier.</text>  
  <image id="15" src="DSC00479Tony's photo).JPG" height="450" legend="true" legendTitle="Avatar Cliff" legendx="5" legendy="9" width="600"> 
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    </drawing>  
    <legend> 
      <climb>8</climb> 
    </legend> 
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  <climb id="8" name="Avatar" stars="*" extra="" number="9." length="65m" grade="16" fa="P.Robinson, C.Rathbone March 2015">Start climbing at the foot of the crag in the middle below a corner which is steeper than it looks. The rock is generally sound but take care.&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Climb the short wall R of the cave to reach the corner and follow it straight up to where it steepens (crux). From the ledge, continue up the rock on the L to a comfortable grassy ledge with a tall tea tree.&lt;br/&gt;2. 35m. Up the steep wall for a few metres where the angle eases and follow the face and ridge to the top. Good pro is infrequent but the climbing easier.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <text class="heading2" id="10">Needle Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="11">The main track to the Needles summit continues climbing up south from the Thimble and passes close to a prominent needle of rock with a very impressive arête/face.</text>  
  <image id="16" src="DSC00486 (1024x768).jpg" height="800" legend="true" legendTitle="Needle Buttress" legendx="10" legendy="10" width="600"> 
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    </drawing>  
    <legend> 
      <climb>12</climb> 
    </legend> 
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  <climb id="12" name="Suture" stars="*" extra="" number="10." length="25m" grade="15" fa="S. Scott, P. Robinson and T. McKenny,  Feb 2015.">Starting at the very toe of the buttress, climb up and over the overlaps, stepping awkwardly R and up at the second one. Up the slabs to the steep finish.</climb>  
  <image id="44" src="Stu on Suture 2015.jpg" height="600" width="800" legendTitle="Stu Scott on Suture (2015)" legend="true"/>  
  <text id="19" class="heading3">Crack Den</text>  
  <text id="20" class="text">The series of buttresses and ridges below the Needles summit. Partly viewable from the hiking trail access, walking down from the hiking trail after passing Needle Buttress. The nature of the rock requires some care and consideration, this is part of the experience and participants would be unwise to expect no loose or questionable rock...(Eds. comment. Does this mean b---- loose?&lt;br/&gt;It is conceivable and likely that some of these routes were climbed by the original Tasmanians. In addition, Phil Robinson reports the ridges here were climbed by TUMC members in the 1970s. Descriptions and names below by Dave James not offered as first ascents.</text>  
  <climb id="21" stars="" extra="" number="11." name="Injection" length="110" grade="9" fa="Possibly Tas Uni Mountaineering club (TUMC) 1970's">1. 55m. starting on right side of ridge where weakness continues onto easy slabs following ridge as desired.&lt;br/&gt;2. 55m continue up slabs alpine style to col where ridge breaks down and easy scramble take you off ridge towards the east and walk back down.</climb>  
  <climb id="26" stars="" extra="" number="12." name="Syringe" length="110m" grade="10" fa="Possibly Tas Uni Mountaineering Club (TUMC)1970's">Major ridge ~20m right of Injection. Somewhat of a tiny Rysavy Ridge...&lt;br/&gt;1 55m, dicky move onto overlap/ridge then follow slabs. step right into small col to belay at about 50-55m (or else you'll find you need to downclimb a few metres off a little pinnacle.)&lt;br/&gt;2.45m moving right onto slabs and excellent position, navigate upwards.&lt;br/&gt;3. `10m (?) one more little slab then its easy walking up to the summit of the Needles &lt;br/&gt;descend via hiking trail.</climb>  
  <image id="25" src="crackden.jpg" height="472" legendTitle="Crack Den" legend="true"> 
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    </drawing>  
    <legend> 
      <climb>12</climb>  
      <climb>21</climb>  
      <climb>26</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>
  <image id="56" src="Crack Den (IMG_6437)topo.jpg" height="450" width="600"/>  
  <climb id="53" stars="***" extra="" number="13." name="Seamless" length="50m" grade="11" fa="P. Robinson (with support from C. Rathbone)  5/03/24  ">A wonderful slab below the summit of the 1st peak along the range from the Needles summit. Good rock, great position, and easy climbing.&lt;br/&gt;Access 1-1.5 hours. Climb up the Needles walking track toward the summit passed the Thimble and traverse the slopes below Needle Buttress across to the ridge leading east. Pass the 1st peak on the R (south side) and descend a grassy slope to the foot of the slab which faces N. &lt;br/&gt;A steepish start to gain the slab, follow the centre of the slab passing through a couple of small overlaps and a short thin section high up. Scramble to the top of the peak for a few metres to find a solid belay.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>  
  <image id="54" src="IMG_9455.JPG" height="414" width="600">
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    <legend>
      <climb>53</climb>
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  <image id="55" src="IMG_9726.JPG" height="467" width="700" legend="true" legendTitle="Seamless (takes L skyline to summit)"/> 
</guide>