Page History

<guide version="2">
  <header access="Currently, access to Gunners Quoin is a little problematic.  You need to cross private land to get to the cliff (which lies in a Public Reserve) and will need to ask for permission from the current landowners / tenants at the end of Gunners Quoin Road.  Previously, this was usually through Bob Hunt (Lot 156), though this has changed with the installation of new automatic gates to his property, Bob (lot 156) has made it clear he does nopt want anyone walking through his property.  Now negotiations have been made with tenants of lot 155. The first time you access the cliff leave a note and a bottle of wine in lot 155 mail box to introduce yourself. Access through gate 155 and walk along the right hand side fence for 150m, then turn left and walk through the forest to the cliff face. Please respect the wishes of the landowners and do not walk up to their houses, please leave a wide birth around their house while walking in.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;To get there drive north up the East Derwent Hwy 6.2km from the Bowen Bridge to Baskerville Rd (not signposted, see the map in the Monkeys Bum section). Drive up this for 1.9km until you can turn into Gunners Quoin Road, leading off to the right.  After 1.6km the cliff will begin to loom above you, it&apos;s dark foreboding walls of choss sending shudders through your bones. Park at the end of the road and seek permission from one of the landowners prior to heading onto the cliff." acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn &amp; Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="This cliff has acquired quite a reputation for being a pile of choss. As well as a lot of choss there are also some good climbs though; mostly in the grade 19 to 22 region. The climbing is on dolerite but it does provide a good alternative to the Pipes as it is lot sunnier and is at a much lower altitude. Because of the presence of loose rock, access issues and the absence of good easy climbs it is not suitable for beginners or groups." name="Gunners Quoin" rock="Chossy vertical dolerite, up to 50 m high. Mostly trad, but a couple of bolted routes." sun="Afternoon sun" walk="15 min uphill" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <gps id="60">
    <point pid="0" latitude="-42.77036" longitude="147.32213" easting="526353" northing="5264635" zone="55G" code="" description="Gunners Quoin"/>
    <point pid="1" description="155 Gunners Quoin Road" latitude="-42.76877" longitude="147.31853" easting="526060" northing="5264813" zone="55G"/>
    <point pid="2" description="156 Gunners Quoin Road" latitude="-42.77156" longitude="147.32042" easting="526213" northing="5264502" zone="55G"/>
  </gps>
  <text<polyline idpid="523" classdescription="heading3">Teen Spirit Area</text>
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  </gps>
  <text id="52" class="heading3">Teen Spirit Area</text>
  <climb extra="13Þ" grade="24" length="35m" name="Teen Spirit" number="" stars="***" id="3" fa="Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Hedges Nov 2003.">Way up left of the other climbs described, on a white patch of rock visible from the highway. Climb the face and roof to DBB.</climb>
  <text id="53" class="heading3">Exploded Goat Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="4">The first routes described are on The Exploded Goat Buttress, a small buttress below The Unlevel Playing Field and to the L of South End.&lt;br/&gt;Left of Fat Lizard, routes have been done, but the rock there is too crumbly.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="30m" name="Fat Lizard" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="J. Tiller, R. Marshall and R. Cockerill, Mar 1995.">Start around the LH corner of Exploded Goat Buttress in a small alcove. Mantle on top of block which overlooks the buttress, step around L into a wide chimney, bridge up and face climb to top of pinnacle. Follow face up and R to a large she-oak. Rap off. Suprisingly good.</climb>
  <climb id="65" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Cramped Seat" length="60m" grade="16" fa="Fraser L-R July 2022, Lead solo">Start 4m right of FL on main face of buttress. Originally done as lead solo in one pitch but recommended to be done in two pitches. 1) 30m Up steep crack moving slighty left to follow LH crack, which has hands, fist and wide section. Get to ledge on pillar, good spot for belay. 2) 35m Series of ledges with some good moves. Finishes on LH end of uneven playing field.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="The Bulky Excavator" number="" stars="" id="6" fa="T. Meldrum, J. McKenny and T. McKenny, Jun 1995.">A large block sits near the arête on the LH end of the Buttress. Start round the corner to the R of the block, L of a lichened wall, below an obvious corner line. Follow the main crack line through a small roof at the top. Rap from tree.</climb>
  <text id="54" class="heading3">The Unlevel Playing Field</text>
  <text class="text" id="7">The Unlevel Playing Field is a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Previously Accessaccess iswas possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face., Athis boltedis raplooking chainpretty atgrim. the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.</text>Accessing via routes on Exploded Goat buttress will be nicer. A single bolt rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.</text>
  <climb id="67" stars="*" extra="" number="" name="The Sunshine Line" length="25m" grade="20/21" fa="Fraser L-R &amp; Alex Lawson, Sep 2022">The striking thin crack that splits the most LH most pillar on the buttress, is the first piece of rock to get sun. A perfect hand crack turns thin, then goes around to the right of rooflet to gain another thin finger and handcrack to top. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Currently no bolted anchor (ill add one soon), if you are desperate to repeat this soon to be classic, ill lend you my removable bolts.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Would be worth a couple more stars if the access was easier.</climb>
  <climb id="66" stars="" extra="" number="" name="20/20 Vision" length="25m" grade="15" fa="Fraser L-R, July 2022, Lead solo">Scramble up 3m left of EI, passing large gum, climb the double offwidth corner cracks to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Economic Irrationalist" id="9" fa="Roger Parkyn, Apr 1993." stars="" number="">Start about 10m left of Man of the Moon. Scrambling for about 12m leads to the base of a hand crack. The hand crack is about 2m right of the medium sized gum that appears to be growing out of the rock half way up the cliff.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="24m" name="Man of the Moon" id="10" fa="Peter Steane" stars="**" number="">Start at the left end on the front face of the buttress. Climb the long outstanding corner crack, with a small roof to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="24m" name="Hoons of the Baskerville" id="11" fa="Roger Parkyn, Aug 1991.">Follow the crack-line up the middle of the front of the buttress. At half height, pass a small overhang (crux) then follow the superb finger/hand crack above to easier ground.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="24m" name="The Unlevel Playing Field" stars=" * " id="12" fa="Roger Parkyn, 1991.">A number="">*Death block*-ill remove soon.&lt;br/&gt;A fine and varied route. Start up the hand crack left of the arete that rises above the col (and lunch boulder). When the crack peters out move right to the arete and clip the first of two bolts. This is where the fun starts. The crux is right at the end.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="No Comment" id="13">Take the crack line left of the chimney. The start is steep. Further up the crack widens from hand size to off width. Thankfully the off width is not too tricky.</climb>
  <text id="55" class="heading3">The South Face Lower Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">The wall behind Slope Buttress is known as the South Face. It is probably the best piece of rock on the cliff and is divided into an upper and lower section by a ledge at half height. The climbs on the lower tier are described first. Descent from these routes is usually best made by abseil.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="Smack" id="15" fa="Doug Fife.">Scramble up to the left of Jammin for De Lord to belay beside a large charred stump. Climb the crack above to a corner and then a roof to finish. Pull around left on jams, then belay on the large ledge (alternatively it is possible to avoid this overhang by passing to its left, making the climb one or two grades easier). To descend, move around to the left to find a suitable rap tree.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="35m" name="Malvern Star" stars=" * " id="16" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994.">Natural gear to the bulge followed by three hangered bolts and more gear if you want it.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="17m" name="Jammin for De Lord" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Feb 1985.">Finger-lock up the crack just left of Illegal Use of an Opiate.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Illegal Use of an Opiate" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="Phil Steane (solo).">This is the crack directly below the abseil tree. Pleasant jamming with good pro.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="17m" name="Reefer Madness" stars=" * " id="19" fa="Doug Fife.">Start at the same place as Illegal Use of an Opiate but go rightwards into the corner which is capped by a roof at 5m. The climbing is superb; intellectual as much as physical. Rap off the tree.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="17m" name="I Need a New Drug" stars=" * " id="20" fa="TR Evan Peacock, Aug 1982.">The face climb just right of Reefer Madness. Bolts were added in '92 to facilitate a direct finish (still being worked on!). These bolts help make the original route leadable although wires and small CDs are still required.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="40m" name="MDMA" number="" stars="*" id="21" fa="Evan Peacock, 1993."/>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="In a Different Light" id="22" fa="Evan Peacock, Jul 1985.">An excellent route. Climb up the big black streak below a bulge. There is a bolt under the bulge. Continue up for 5m past another bolt. Finish either to the left to a large ledge or directly through another bulge (or step right and rap off the anchor for Falling Shakes).</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="25m" name="Falling Shakes and Plummeting Sundaes" number="" stars="**" id="23" fa="Grant Rowbottom, Apr 1993.">In Grant's words "easily the best climb in Hobart". Yeah, we've heard that before but the lad has found a real gem here. Very sustained, very techo and not easy. Follow the line of bolts to a bolted rap anchor.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Interstate" id="24" fa="Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991.">Start down below the jammed block beneath Deep End. Follow the broken corner to join Deep End at about 10m. From here move left and climb the thin crack and wall (crux). Continue up the corner.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Deep End" stars=" * " id="26" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Classic crack cranking (mostly hand sized) on the wall left of House of Fun. The crux is stepping right to gain the steep finishing cracks. A rap chain beside the top of this climb provides an easy descent for this, and the next four routes.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="House of Fun" stars=" * " id="27" fa="Phil Steane.">Don't be put off by the grass and vegetation, as this is a fine route despite appearances. Climb up cracks then crank through the steep juggy zone at half height (to the right of the most prominent overhang on the wall). The finishing crack has a thorny bush growing in it but this is easily by-passed.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Silly Buggers" id="28" fa="Pete Steane.">Even more vegetated than House of Fun. Climb the crack. Follow the crack up the wall/corner.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Don&apos;t Look Now" id="29" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1986.">If you want to do the boulder problem start it is advisable to scramble up to the base of Magic Number and place some gear in the horizontal break at 3m. From the break climb up the arete to a bolt (gear can be placed in the crack on the left). The crux is climbing up the arete near the bolt.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="23m" name="Magic Number" stars=" * " id="30" fa="Doug Fife.">Technical (but non-strenuous) climbing makes this an interesting route. It is well protected although skinny camming machines are handy. Climb the corner to a ledge, then continue to the main horizontal ledge system another 5m up, using the right crack (the one without the tree).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="23m" name="Down to Zero" stars=" * " id="31" fa="Doug Fife.">A fine corner line. Clipping the fixed peg at about 4m provides most of the difficulties. An easy but pleasant finish leads to the ledge which crosses the cliff.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="20m" name="Infidels" stars=" * " id="32" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.">Excellent face climbing between Down to Zero and No Dams. Some good RP runners (if you think there are such things, Ed.) and a fixed peg (to the right) protect the lower section. When you reach the micro-overhang a metre or two past the peg, start moving rightwards to easier ground.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="20m" name="No Dams" id="33" fa="C.Dawson, 1974.">Up the main corner to a ramp.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="20m" name="Short Memory" number="" stars="*" id="34" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.">Climb directly up the wall to the immediate right of No Dams. Thankfully it has recently been retro-bolted by Evan but a large friend would still be handy near the top.</climb>
  <text id="56" class="heading3">South Face Upper Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="35">And on the upper tier of the South Face is ...</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Highway" id="25" fa="Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991.">Climb the wall 1.5m right of the small pillar above Interstate (no pro') then step left onto the pillar. Climb the shallow crack for 3m, traverse left to a groove line then up to a large tree.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Love is a Drug" id="36" fa="S.Eberhard, V.Wong, May 1991.">Start from the ledge where House of Fun finishes. It is hardest at the bottom. Start behind the small tree. Climb up the face to a small ledge then move right into a crack. Climb up this until it starts to overhang, then move right again to finish.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="37">Editors note: This climb is included for historical reference only. Anyone else naming climbs with such outlandishly pukish names will not see it published in this fine piece of literature. Try Mills &amp; Boon.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="28m" name="Trendy Dinosaur" id="38" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">Start at the chains at the top of House of Fun. Climb the crack and through the roof on very thin holds (crux). Editor's note: I have some doubts about the description re location.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="Cold Duck" id="39" fa="C.Dawson, 1974.">This is the continuation of No Dams. Chimney bridge and jam up the side of a large pillar. Step right onto the top of the pillar then finish up the easy corner.</climb>
  <climb id="59" length="15m" grade="19" stars="*" name="Duck or be Dammed" fa="S.Goss, J.Parkes 2007.">A nice third pitch to follow No Dams and Cold Duck. From the Pillar above Cold Duck Step left and up face holds and underclings. Move right and up hand crack/s to finish at a large block. Walk off the east side.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="25m" name="The Grump" id="40" fa="D.Bowman, 1976.">This route takes the corner line between the large block overhangs up and right of No Dams. Step right onto the arete at the top of the corner. Tricky route finding to the top. Protection is a bit thin, but good.</climb>
  <text id="57" class="heading3">Slope Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="41">Slope Buttress is the small outcrop which stands out in front of the crag. It is the first piece of rock you will reach when walking in to the crag. The following three climbs are on it's front face. The South End lines are behind this buttress and to the left.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Body Blow" id="42" fa="Hamish Jackson 1992. ">Start 3m left of Trap Door. Climb up to a rib of rock on the left side of the small overhang at 3m height. Pass the next overhang on the left then clip the first of two bolts. Move right to climb the prow of the buttress. The crux, passing the second bolt, is interesting and technical. Small CDs are useful in horizontals.Direct version 23?</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Trap Door" number="" stars="" id="43" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Start up the chimney behind a pillar to reach a ledge at about 8m. Climb the body crack above this through a small roof. Move right to finish up the crack left of Slope Face.</climb>
  <image id="61" src="Gunners_Quoin,_Tasmania-lyle closs.jpg" height="1696">
    <drawing/>
    <legend>
      <climb>44</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <text id="62" class="text">Lyle Closs hip belaying halfway up slope face.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Slope Face" number="" stars="" id="44" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Climb a broken blocky corner to a ledge. Finish up the good clean hand crack on right wall.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Slope Head" number="" stars="" id="45" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Fine corner climbing despite being slightly dirty. Excellent gear.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="46">To the right of Slope Buttress and in the gully is a slightly smaller face. This has just a solitary line on it.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Mixed Emotions" number="" stars="" id="47" fa="Phil Steane (solo).">This route starts in the gully on the right of Slope Buttress and is on the wall opposite it. The route can be recognised as it follows three parallel cracks going straight upwards.</climb>
  <text id="58" class="heading3">Quadriceps Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="48">To the right of South Face and Slope Buttress the cliff becomes even more inhospitable. About 80m further on and behind a large white gum tree are a couple of short lines.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Quadriceps" id="49" fa="Mick Steane, 1976.">Climb straight up the left-hand line (hand crack) of the two parallel cracks. Quite strenuous.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="12m" name="Hamstring" id="50" fa="Mick Steane, 1976.">The crack 2m right of Quadriceps which involves one wide section.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="51">There are also some routes on the left end of the Quoin (i.e. quite a long way from the routes described so far) but the info is not of good enough quality to publish yet. Apparently there is even a cliff there with route initials at the bottom of it. Thorough info on these routes would be appreciated for future editions.</text>
</guide>