Page History

<guide version="2"> 
  <header access="Currently,Current access to Gunners Quoin is a little problematic., as Youyou need to cross private land with the owners permission to get to the cliff (which lies in a Public Reserve) and will need to ask for permission from the current landowners / tenants at the end of Gunners Quoin Road.  Previously, this was usually. Previous access was through Bob Hunt (Lot 156), thoughand thishe has changedmade it withclear thehe installationdoes ofnot newwant automaticanyone gateswalking tothrough his property, Bob (lot 156) has made it clear he does nopt want anyone walking through his property.  Now. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Now, negotiations have been made with the tenants of lotLot 155. The first time you access the cliff, leave a note and a bottle of wine in lot 155their mail -box to introduce yourself. AccessPark throughsmartly gateoff 155the androad walk alongin the right hand side fence for 150m, then turncul-de-sac and go through gate 155, walking along the RHS fence for 150m. Turn left and walk through the forest to the cliff face, staying well clear of their home. Please respect the wishes of the landowners and do not walk up to their houses, please leave a wide birth around their house while walking in.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;To get there, drive north -up theGunners EastQuoin DerwentRoad Hwyfrom 6.2kmBaskerville fromRoad thein BowenOld BridgeBeach. to Baskerville Rd (not signposted, see the map in the Monkeys Bum section). Drive up this for 1.9km until you can turn into Gunners Quoin Road, leading off to the right.  After 1.6km the After 1.6km, the cliff will begin to loom above you, with it&apos;'s dark foreboding walls of choss sending shudders through your bones." Park at the end of the road and seek permission from one of the landowners prior to heading onto the cliff." acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, Matt Perchard, Fraser L-R &amp; MattChristoph Perchard,Speer. originallyOriginally published in Craglets." history="" intro="This cliff has acquired quite a deserved reputation for being a pile of choss. As well as a lot of choss However, there are also some good climbs though;amongst mostlythis. inA thesunny gradeaspect 19and toa 22lower region. The climbing is on dolerite butaltitude makes it doessuitable providefor awinter goodvisitation. alternative toHowever, theavoid Pipes as it is lot sunnier and is at a much lower altitudewindy days. Because of the presence of loose rock, access issues and the absence of good easy climbs, it is notentirely suitableunsuitable for beginners or large groups." name="Gunners Quoin" rock="Chossy vertical dolerite, up to 50 m high. Mostly trad, but a couple of bolted routes." sun="Afternoon sun" walk="15 min uphill" id="1" camping="No camping please." autonumber="false"/>
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  <text id="52" class="heading3">Teen Spirit Area</text>
  <climb extra="13Þ" grade="24" length="35m" name="Teen Spirit" number="" stars="***" id="3" fa="Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Hedges Nov 2003.">Way up left of the other climbs described, on a white patch of rock visible from the highway. Climb the face and roof to DBB.</climb>
  <text id="53" class="heading3">Exploded Goat Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="4">The first routes described are on The Exploded Goat Buttress, a small buttress below The Unlevel Playing Field and to the L of South End.&lt;br/&gt;Left of Fat Lizard, routes have been done, but the rock there is too crumbly.</text> class="heading3">Crag Steward</text>
  <text id="76" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (hobartcraglets@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text>  
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  <text id="52" class="heading2">Teen Spirit Area</text>  
  <climb extra="13Þ" grade="24" length="35m" name="Teen Spirit" number="" stars="***" id="3" fa="Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Hedges Nov 2003.">Way up left of the other climbs described, on a white patch of rock visible from the highway. Climb the face and roof to DBB.</climb>  
  <text id="53" class="heading2">Exploded Goat Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="4">The first routes described are on The Exploded Goat Buttress, a small buttress below The Unlevel Playing Field and to the left of the South Face.&lt;br/&gt;Left of Fat Lizard, routes have been done, but the rock there is too crumbly.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="30m" name="Fat Lizard" number="" stars="" id="5" fa="J. Tiller, R. Marshall and R. Cockerill, Mar 1995.">Start around the LH corner of Exploded Goat Buttress in a small alcove. Mantle on top of block which overlooks the buttress, step around L into a wide chimney, bridge up and face climb to top of pinnacle. Follow face up and R to a large she-oak. Rap off. Suprisingly good.</climb>  
  <climb id="65" stars="*" extra="" number="" name="Cramped Seat" length="60m" grade="16" fa="Fraser L-R July 2022, Lead solo">The best way to access the Unlevel Playing Field.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Start 4m right of FL on main face of buttress. Originally done as lead solo in one pitch but recommended to be done in two pitches. 1) 30m Up steep crack moving slighty left to follow LH crack, which has hands, fist and wide section. Get to ledge on pillar, good spot for belay. 2) 35m Series of ledges with some good moves. Finishes on LH end of unlevel playing field.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1216" length="30m20m" name="FatThe Bulky LizardExcavator" number="" stars="" id="56" fa="JT. TillerMeldrum, RJ. MarshallMcKenny and RT. CockerillMcKenny, MarJun 1995.">Start around the LH corner of Exploded Goat Buttress in>A large block sits near the arête on the LH end of the Buttress. Start round the corner to the R of the block, L of a lichened wall, below an obvious corner line. Follow the main crack line through a small alcove.roof Mantleat onthe top. ofRap block which overlooks the buttress, step around L into a wide chimney, bridge up and face climb to top of pinnacle. Follow face up and R to a large she-oak. Rap off. Suprisingly good.</climb>
  <climb id="65" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Cramped Seat" length="60m" grade="16" fa="Fraser L-R July 2022, Lead solo">Start 4m right of FL on main face of buttress. Originally done as lead solo in one pitch but recommended to be done in two pitches. 1) 30m Up steep crack moving slighty left to follow LH crack, which has hands, fist and wide section. Get to ledge on pillar, good spot for belay. 2) 35m Series of ledges with some good moves. Finishes on LH end of uneven playing field.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="20m" name="The Bulky Excavator" number="" stars="" id="6" fa="T. Meldrum, J. McKenny and T. McKenny, Jun 1995.">A large block sits near the arête on the LH end of the Buttress. Start round the corner to the R of the block, L of a lichened wall, below an obvious corner line. Follow the main crack line through a small roof at the top. Rap from tree.</climb>
  <text id="54" class="heading3">The Unlevel Playing Field</text>
  <text class="text" id="7">The Unlevel Playing Field is a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Previously access was possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face, this is looking pretty grim. Accessing via routes on Exploded Goat buttress will be nicer. A single bolt rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.</text>
  <climb id="67" stars="*" extra="" number="" name="The Sunshine Line" length="25m" grade="21" fa="Fraser L-R &amp; Alex Lawson, Sep 2022">The striking thin crack that splits the most LH most pillar on the buttress, is the first piece of rock to get sun. A perfect hand crack turns thin, then goes around to the right of rooflet to gain another thin finger and handcrack to top. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Currently no bolted anchor (ill add one soon), if you are desperate to repeat this soon to be classic, ill lend you my removable bolts.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Would be worth a couple more stars if the access was easier.</climb>
  <climb id="66" stars="" extra="" number="" name="20/20 Vision" length="25m" grade="15" fa="Fraser L-R, July 2022, Lead solo">Scramble up 3m left of EI, passing large gum, climb the double offwidth corner cracks to finish.</climb>from tree.</climb>  
  <text id="54" class="heading2">The Unlevel Playing Field</text>  
  <text class="text" id="7">The Unlevel Playing Field is a buttress of solid looking rock 100m left of South Face and about 50m above ground level. Previously access was possible by scrambling up the gully leading left from the left edge of South Face, this is looking pretty grim. Accessing via routes on Exploded Goat buttress will be nicer. A single bolt rap chain at the top of the large gully (just below the lunch boulder and to its south) facilitates an easy descent.</text>  
  <climb id="70" stars="" extra="" number="" name="Flying Arete Closed Project" length="" grade="" fa=""/>  
  <climb id="69" stars="*" extra="2Þ" number="" name="Sunshine Direct" length="25" grade="22" fa="Fraser L-R &amp; Anne Knox, Dec 2022">The direct finish of TSL goes up the bottomless corner to the left of the rooflet. Climb corner and clip chains of TSL to right.&lt;br/&gt;*Ill add its own dedicated lower-off soon*</climb>  
  <climb id="67" stars="**" extra="" number="" name="The Sunshine Line" length="25m" grade="21" fa="Fraser L-R &amp; Alex Lawson, Sep 2022">The striking thin crack that splits the most LH most pillar on the buttress, is the first piece of rock to get sun. A perfect hand crack turns thin, then goes around to the right of rooflet to gain another thin finger and handcrack to top. DBB.</climb>  
  <climb id="66" stars="" extra="" number="" name="20/20 Vision" length="25m" grade="15" fa="Fraser L-R, July 2022, Lead solo">Scramble up 3m left of EI, passing large gum, climb the double offwidth corner cracks to finish.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Economic Irrationalist" id="9" fa="Roger Parkyn, Apr 1993." stars="" number="">Start about 10m left of Man of the Moon. Scrambling for about 12m leads to the base of a hand crack. The hand crack is about 2m right of the medium sized gum that appears to be growing out of the rock half way up the cliff.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="24m" name="Man of the Moon" id="10" fa="Peter Steane" stars="**" number="">Start at the left end on the front face of the buttress. Climb the long outstanding corner crack, with a small roof to finish.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="24m" name="Hoons of the Baskerville" id="11" fa="Roger Parkyn, Aug 1991.">Follow the crack-line up the middle of the front of the buttress. At half height, pass a small overhang (crux) then follow the superb finger/hand crack above to easier ground.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1823" length="25m24m" name="Economic IrrationalistThe Unlevel Playing Field" stars="" id="912" fa="Roger Parkyn, Apr 19931991." starsnumber="" number="">Start about 10m left of Man of the Moon. Scrambling for about 12m leads to the base of a hand crack. The hand crack is about 2m right of the medium sized gum that appears to be growing out of the rock half way up the cliff.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="24m" name="Man of the Moon" id="10" fa="Peter Steane" stars="**" number="">Start at the left end on the front face of the buttress. Climb the long outstanding corner crack, with a small roof to finish.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="19" length="24m" name="Hoons of the Baskerville" id="11" fa="Roger Parkyn, Aug 1991.">Follow the crack-line up the middle of the front of the buttress. At half height, pass a small overhang (crux) then follow the superb finger/hand crack above to easier ground.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="24m" name="The Unlevel Playing Field" stars="" id="12" fa="Roger Parkyn, 1991." number="">*Death block*-ill remove soon.&lt;br/&gt;A fine and varied route. Start up the hand crack left of the arete that rises above the col (and lunch boulder). When the crack peters out move right to the arete and clip the first of two bolts. This is where the fun starts. The crux is right at the end.</climb>>*Death block*-ill remove soon.&lt;br/&gt;A fine and varied route. Start up the hand crack left of the arete that rises above the col (and lunch boulder). When the crack peters out move right to the arete and clip the first of two bolts. This is where the fun starts. The crux is right at the end.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="No Comment" id="13">Take the crack line left of the chimney. The start is steep. Further up the crack widens from hand size to off width. Thankfully the off width is not too tricky.</climb>  
  <text id="55" class="heading2">The South Face Lower Tier</text>  
  <text class="text" id="14">The wall behind Slope Buttress is known as the South Face. It is divided into an upper and lower tier by a prominent ledge at half height. The routes on the lower tier are split by an obvious approach gully up a loose scree field. Descent from these routes is usually best made by abseil.</text>  
  <text id="71" class="heading3">Left of Approach Gully</text>  
  <text id="73" class="text">Left of the approach gully are a series of routes on what is likely the best quality rock on the cliff.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1719" length="20m30m" name="No CommentSmack" id="13">Take the crack line left of the chimney. The start is steep. Further up the crack widens from hand size to off width. Thankfully the off width is not too tricky.</climb>
  <text id="55" class="heading3">The South Face Lower Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">The wall behind Slope Buttress is known as the South Face. It is probably the best piece of rock on the cliff and is divided into an upper and lower section by a ledge at half height. The climbs on the lower tier are described first. Descent from these routes is usually best made by abseil.</text>15" fa="Doug Fife.">Scramble up to the left of Jammin for De Lord to belay beside a large charred stump. Climb the crack above to a corner and then a roof to finish. Pull around left on jams, then belay on the large ledge (alternatively it is possible to avoid this overhang by passing to its left, making the climb one or two grades easier). To descend, move around to the left to find a suitable rap tree.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1925" length="30m35m" name="Malvern Star" stars="Smack**" id="1516" fa="Doug Fife.">Scramble upEvan Peacock, Sep 1994 rebolted 2022." number="">Natural gear to the leftbulge offollowed Jamminby forthree Destainless LordUs toand belaymore besidegear aif largeyou charredwant stumpit. ClimbThe therebolter crackwould abovelike to a corner and then apologize for not moving the first bolt. bring a roofkong topanic finishdraw.</climb> Pull around
 left on jams, then belay on the large ledge (alternatively it is possible to avoid this overhang by passing to its left, making the climb one or two grades easier). To descend, move around to the left to find a suitable rap tree.</climb><text id="68" class="text">Descent for following four routes used to be a tree at 17m, this is now fallen down. Either climb up gully of IUOAO at gr 16/17 to chain, or trend right from RM through thin cracks at gr 19.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2521" length="35m" name="Malvern Star" stars="**" id="16" fa="Evan Peacock, Sep 1994 rebolted 2022." number="">Natural gear to the bulge followed by three stainless Us and more gear if you want it. The rebolter would like to apologize for not moving the foirst bolt. bring a kong panic draw.</climb>
  <text id="68" class="text">Descent for following four routes used to be a tree at 17m, this is now fallen down. Either climb up gully of IUOAO at gr 16/17 to chain, or trend right from RM through thin cracks at gr 19.</text>17m" name="Jammin for De Lord" number="" stars="" id="17" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Feb 1985.">Finger-lock up the crack just left of Illegal Use of an Opiate.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Illegal Use of an Opiate" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="Phil Steane (solo).">This is the crack directly below the abseil tree. Pleasant jamming with good pro.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="2122" length="17m" name="Jammin for De LordReefer Madness" numberstars="" * stars="" id="1719" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Feb 1985.">Finger-lock upDoug Fife.">Start at the cracksame justplace left ofas Illegal Use of an Opiate.</climb>
 but <climb extra="" grade="14" length="17m" name="Illegal Use of an Opiate" number="" stars="" id="18" fa="Phil Steane (solo).">This is the crack directly below the abseil tree. Pleasant jamming with good pro.</climb>go rightwards into the corner which is capped by a roof at 5m. The climbing is superb; intellectual as much as physical. Rap off the tree.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="17m" name="Reefer MadnessI Need a New Drug" stars=""" id="20" fa="TR Evan Peacock, Aug 1982. *rebolted 2022" idnumber="19">The fa="Doug Fife.">Start at the same place as Illegal Use of an Opiate but go rightwards into the corner which is capped by a roof at 5m. The climbing is superb; intellectual as much as physical. Rap off the tree.</climb>face climb just right of Reefer Madness. Bolts were added in '92 to facilitate a direct finish (MDMA). These bolts help make the original route leadable although wires and small CDs are still required.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="2227" length="17m40m" name="MDMA"I Need a New Drug number="" stars="*" id="2021" fa="TR Evan Peacock, Aug 19821993. *rebolted 2022" number="">The face climb just right of Reefer Madness. Bolts were added in '92 to facilitate a direct finish (MDMA). These bolts help make the original route leadable although wires and small CDs are still required.</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="27" length="40m" name="MDMA" number="" stars="*" id="21" fa="Evan Peacock, 1993. *rebolted 2022">Direct finish to INAND. DBB.</climb>">Direct finish to INAND. DBB lower-off.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="30m" name="In a Different Light" id="22" fa="Evan Peacock, Jul 1985.">An excellent route. Climb up the big black streak below a bulge. There is a bolt under the bulge. Continue up for 5m past another bolt. Finish either to the left to a large ledge or directly through another bulge (or step right and rap off the anchor for Falling Shakes).</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="2225" length="30m25m" name="In a Different LightFalling Shakes and Plummeting Sundaes" number="" stars="**" id="2223" fa="EvanGrant PeacockRowbottom, JulApr 19851993. *rebolted 2022">An>In excellent route. Climb upGrant's words "easily the bigbest blackclimb streakin below a bulge. There is a bolt under the bulge. Continue up for 5m past another bolt. Finish either to the left to a large ledge or directly through another bulge (or step right and rap off the anchor for Falling Shakes).</climb>
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="25" length="25m" name="Falling Shakes and Plummeting Sundaes" number="" stars="**" id="23" fa="Grant Rowbottom, Apr 1993. *rebolted 2022">In Grant's words "easily the best climb in Hobart". Yeah, we've heard that before but the lad has found a real gem here. Very sustained, very techo and not easy. Follow the line of bolts to a bolted rap anchor. DBB</climb>Hobart". Yeah, we've heard that before but the lad has found a real gem here. Very sustained, very techo and not easy. Follow the line of bolts to a bolted rap anchor. DBB lower-off.</climb>  
  <text id="72" class="heading3">Right of Approach Gully</text>  
  <text id="74" class="text">To the right of the approach gully are some nice crack routes on mostly good quality rock. Be careful of loose rock when moving about on the top-out ledges.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Interstate" id="24" fa="Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991.">Start down below the jammed block beneath Deep End. Follow the broken corner to join Deep End at about 10m. From here move left and climb the thin crack and wall (crux). Continue up the corner.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1817" length="25m" name="Deep End" stars=" ** " id="26" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974." number="">Classic crack cranking (mostly hand sized) on the wall left of House of Fun. Up Thethe cruxline isthrough steppingthe rightwide tocrack, gainthen thestep steepleft finishingand cracks.ascend Athe raphand/fist chaincrack besidethrough the topsteepening ofat thisthe climbtop. providesDescend anvia easyDBB descentabseil forstation this,at andRHS theof nextledge fourat routestop.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="House of Fun" stars=" * " id="27" fa="Phil Steane." number="">Don't be put off by the grass and vegetation, as this is a fine route despite appearances. Climb up cracks then crank through the steep juggy zone at half height (to the right of the mostprominent prominentyellow overhang on the wall). The finishing crack has a thorny bush growing in it but this is easily by-passed. DBB at top.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Silly Buggers" id="28" fa="Pete Steane.">Even more vegetated than House of Fun stars="*" number="">A bouldery start up the face for 3m leads to a stance on a small ledge. Climb the tricky crack. Followfinger-crack above, then continue following the crackline upto the wall/cornerDBB.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="25m" name="Don&apos;'t Look Now" id="29" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1986.">If you want to do the boulder problem start it is advisable to scramble up to the base of Magic Number and place some gear in the horizontal break at 3m. From the break climb up the arete to a bolt (gear can be placed in the crack on the left). The crux is climbing up the arete near the bolt.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="23m" name="Magic Number" stars=" * " id="30" fa="Doug Fife." number="">Technical (but non-strenuous) climbing makes this an interesting route. It is well protected, although skinnysmall camming machinescams are handy. Climb the corner to a ledge, then continue to the main horizontal ledge system another 5m up, using the right crack (the one without the tree).</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="23m" name="Down to Zero" stars=" * " id="31" fa="Doug Fife.">A fine corner line. Clipping the fixed peg at about 4m provides most of the difficulties. An easy but pleasant finish leads to the ledge which crosses the cliff.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="20m" name="Infidels" stars=" * " id="32" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.">Excellent face climbing between Down to Zero and No Dams. Some good RP runners (if you think there are such things, Ed.) and a fixed peg (to the right) protect the lower section. When you reach the micro-overhang a metre or two past the peg, start moving rightwards to easier ground.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="20m" name="No Dams" id="33" fa="C.Dawson, 1974.">Up the main corner to a ramp.</climb>  
  <climb extra="Þ" grade="21" length="20m" name="Short Memory" number="" stars="*" id="34" fa="Evan Peacock, Jun 1984.">Climb directly up the wall to the immediate right of No Dams. Thankfully it has recently been retro-bolted by Evan but a large friend would still be handy near the top.</climb>
  <text id="56" class="heading3">South Face Upper Tier</text>
  <text class="text" id="35">And on the upper tier of the South Face is ...</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="35m" name="Highway" id="25" fa="Steve Hamilton, Sep 1991.">Climb the wall 1.5m right of the small pillar above Interstate (no pro') then step left onto the pillar. Climb the shallow crack for 3m, traverse left to a groove line then up to a large tree.</climb> been retro-bolted by Evan but a large friend would still be handy near the top.</climb>  
  <text id="56" class="heading2">The South Face Upper Tier</text>  
  <text class="text" id="35">Located above the Lower Tier (duh). The rock quality on the upper tier is significantly poorer - be mindful of those below you.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1920" length="25m35m" name="Love is a DrugHighway" id="3625" fa="S.Eberhard, V.WongSteve Hamilton, MaySep 1991." stars=">Start from" number="">Climb the ledgewall where1.5m Houseright of Fun finishes. It is hardest atthe small pillar above Interstate (no pro) then step left onto the bottompillar. Start behindClimb the smallshallow tree.crack Climbfor up3m, thetraverse faceleft to a smallgroove ledgeline then moveup rightto intoa alarge cracktree.</climb> Climb up
 this until it starts to overhang, then move right again to finish.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="37">Editors note: This climb is included for historical reference only. Anyone else naming climbs with such outlandishly pukish names will not see it published in this fine piece of literature. Try Mills &amp; Boon.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="25" length="28m" name="Trendy Dinosaur" id="38" fa="Volker Jurisch, Nov 1993.">Start at the chains at the top of House of Fun. Climb the crack and through the roof on very thin holds (crux). Editor's note: I have some doubts about the description re location.</climb><climb extra="" grade="19" length="25m" name="Love is a Drug" id="36" fa="S.Eberhard, V.Wong, May 1991." stars="" number="">Start from the ledge where House of Fun finishes. It is hardest at the bottom. Start behind the small tree. Climb up the face to a small ledge then move right into a crack. Climb up this until it starts to overhang, then move right again to finish.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Editors note: This climb is included for historical reference only. Anyone else naming climbs with such outlandishly pukish names will not see it published in this fine piece of literature. Try Mills &amp; Boon.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1625" length="25m28m" name="ColdTrendy DuckDinosaur" id="3938" fa="C.DawsonVolker Jurisch, 1974Nov 1993.">This>Start isat the continuationchains ofat Nothe Dams.top Chimneyof bridgeHouse andof jamFun. upClimb the crack sideand ofthrough athe largeroof pillar.on Stepvery rightthin onto the top of the pillar then finish up the easy cornerholds (crux). Editor's note: I have some doubts about the description re location.</climb>  
  <climb idextra="59" lengthgrade="15m16" gradelength="1925m" starsname="*Cold Duck" nameid="Duck or be Dammed39" fa="SC.GossDawson, J.Parkes 20071974.">A>This niceis thirdthe pitchcontinuation to followof No Dams and Cold Duck. FromChimney thebridge Pillarand abovejam Coldup Duck Step left and up face holds and underclings. Movethe side of a large pillar. Step right andonto upthe handtop crack/sof tothe finishpillar atthen a large block. Walk off finish up the easteasy sidecorner.</climb>  
  <climb extra id="59" length="15m" grade="1619" lengthstars="25m*" name="The Grump" id="40Duck or be Dammed" fa="DS.BowmanGoss, J.Parkes 19762007.">This>A routenice takesthird thepitch cornerto linefollow betweenNo theDams largeand blockCold overhangsDuck. upFrom andthe rightPillar ofabove NoCold Dams.Duck Step rightleft ontoand theup areteface atholds theand topunderclings. ofMove theright corner.and Trickyup routehand findingcrack/s to finish theat top.a Protectionlarge isblock. aWalk bitoff thin,the buteast goodside.</climb>  
  <text<climb idextra="57" classgrade="heading3">Slope Buttress</text>
  <text class="text16" length="25m" name="The Grump" id="4140">Slope Buttress is the small outcrop which stands out in front of the crag. It is the first piece of rock you will reach when walking in to the crag. The following three climbs are on it's front face. The South End lines are behind this buttress and to the left.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="20m" name="Body Blow" id="42" fa="Hamish Jackson 1992. ">Start 3m left of Trap Door. Climb up to a rib of rock on the left side of the small overhang at 3m height. Pass the next overhang on the left then clip the first of two bolts. Move right to climb the prow of the buttress. The crux, passing the second bolt, is interesting and technical. Small CDs are useful in horizontals.Direct version 23?</climb> fa="D.Bowman, 1976.">This route takes the corner line between the large block overhangs up and right of No Dams. Step right onto the arete at the top of the corner. Tricky route finding to the top. Protection is a bit thin, but good.</climb>  
  <text id="57" class="heading2">Slope Buttress</text>  
  <text class="text" id="41">Slope Buttress is the small buttress which stands out in front of the crag below the South Face. Rock quality is generally pretty good. Descent from the routes is by walking-off (left or right).</text>  
  <image id="61" src="Gunners_Quoin,_Tasmania-lyle closs.jpg" height="610" width="400"> 
    <drawing/>  
    <legend> 
      <climb>44</climb> 
    </legend> 
  </image>  
  <text id="62" class="text">Lyle Closs hip belaying halfway up slope face.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="1521" length="20m" name="TrapBody DoorBlow" numberid="42" starsfa="Hamish Jackson 1992. " id="43" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Start up the chimney behind a pillar to reach a ledge at about 8m. Climb the body crack above this through a small roof. Move right to finish up the crack left of Slope Face.</climb>
  <image id="61" src="Gunners_Quoin,_Tasmania-lyle closs.jpg" height="1696">
    <drawing/>
    <legend>
      <climb>44</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <text id="62" class="text">Lyle Closs hip belaying halfway up slope face.</text>>Start 3m left of Trap Door. Climb up to a rib of rock on the left side of the small overhang at 3m height. Pass the next overhang on the left then clip the first of two bolts. Move right to climb the prow of the buttress. The crux, passing the second bolt, is interesting and technical. Small CDs are useful in horizontals.Direct version 23?</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="20m" name="Trap Door" number="" stars="" id="43" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Start up the chimney behind a pillar to reach a ledge at about 8m. Climb the body crack above this through a small roof. Move right to finish up the crack left of Slope Face.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="20m" name="Slope Face" number="" stars="" id="44" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Climb a broken blocky corner to a ledge. Finish up the good clean hand crack on right wall.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="Slope Head" number="" stars="*" id="45" fa="Ian Lewis, 1974.">Fine>An aesthetic line. Fine, well-protected corner climbing despite being slightly dirty. Excellent gear Start off the block accessed from the right.</climb>  
  <text class="text" id="46">To the right of Slope Buttress and in the gully is a slightly smaller face. This has just a solitary line on it.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="15m" name="Mixed Emotions" number="" stars="" id="47" fa="Phil Steane (solo).">This route starts in the gully on the right of Slope Buttress and is on the wall opposite it. The route can be recognised as it follows three parallel cracks going straight upwards.</climb>  
  <text id="58" class="heading3heading2">Quadriceps Area</text>  
  <text class="text" id="48">To the right of South Face and Slope Buttress the cliff becomes even more inhospitable. About 80m further on and behind a large white gum tree are a couple of short lines.</text>  
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="12m" name="Quadriceps" id="49" fa="Mick Steane, 1976.">Climb straight up the left-hand line (hand crack) of the two parallel cracks. Quite strenuous.</climb>  
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="12m" name="Hamstring" id="50" fa="Mick Steane, 1976.">The crack 2m right of Quadriceps which involves one wide section.</climb>  
  <text classid="text75" idclass="51text">There are also some routes on the left end of the Quoin (i.e. quite a long way from the routes described so far) but the info is not of good enough quality to publish yet. Apparently there is even a cliff there with route initials at the bottom of it. Thorough info on these routes would be appreciated for future editions.</text> 
</guide>