Page History

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In addition to those places suggested, I have also played around at Mt Anne
(south side), Mt Geryon and Federation Pk. The west face of Mt Field West
may be OK in certain conditions also.

Geryon is a fair walk (as is Ossa) so you'd want to be sure of the
conditions. Federation Pk is a waste of time - too maritime (and a long
walk). Stick with somewhere accessible that you can get to quickly. For
example, a cliff below The Knuckle on Ben Lomond (rather than Stacks Bluff
itself) has been popular with some northern climbers (it can be reached
readily, partly by vehicular track, from Storeys Creek.

13/01/2005:

I spent a few days on Mt Ossa last Winter (2004) during a clear cold spell (-8 degrees at Liaweenee at nights). Under such conditions prospects for climbing in the area, especially gullies amongst Ossa's bluffs and perhaps the southern cliffs of Pelion West looked excellent. Ossa was all glazed ice and avalanched snow slides; to indicate the conditions, I had only an ice axe and instep crampons so had to cut steps much of the way up Ossa's normal route (it was a walking and photo trip).

Grant

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from Bill Baxter 10/8/2004
This winter the Knuckle was in the best condition I've ever seen it. The ice remained near freezing for most of the day, it was thick enough to take the full length of a screw.
The Knuckle (above Sphinx Bluff) has a lot (10+) of good lines 20 to 40 metres and at an angle 65 to 75 degrees.
The route of the season for Peter Booth and me was not here but on Baleen Crag next to Stacks Bluff. The Trident is 5 pitches, 160m, Scottish Ice 5. The last 70m is a headwall as steep as dolerite gets 85+ degrees. Exciting stuff!

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