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<guide> <header access="FromHillwood Launcestonclimbing drivehas towardsfinally Georgereopened Town(11th alongMarch, the‘24) Eastafter Tamarmany highwayyears forof 33kmclosure. before taking the left hand exit to the Batman Bridge. After 2.5km turn left on to Craigburn Road. Follow the gravel road down the hill for 2.5km until you see some boulders on the left hand side of the road. Park at the gate on the left. Cross the fence at the stile and follow the rough worn track up the hill for 3-4 minutes. This will lead you to the amazing amphitheatre of cliffs that is known as Matto Grosso. This is the main area with around 50 sport routes. Use the guide to find your way to the other areas, which include Cave Rock, the Rock of Ages, and Falcon Crag. The definitive guide for the cliff is in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz. Climb Tasmania Selected Best has photo topos of the best routes. This guide provides route descriptions only for climbs at the Far Side." acknowledgement="As of the 4th February 2019, the owner of the Hillwood land has decided to withdraw ALL access to the climbing area. The stile has been removed and Keep Out notices put up.Exciting times!!<br/><br/>Georgetown Council has negotiated a lease agreement with the land owner, but it remains PRIVATE PROPERTY - so please adhere to best behaviour, so we do not once again lose access!!<br/><br/>**Access is currently "tentative", and could be scrapped within the year if we do not respect the handful of site rules + regulations when we visit. Please be mindful of this. <br/><br/>A carpark has been built well-off the main road to facilitate approx. 25 cars - DO NOT park along Craigburn Road at the old parking space if the new carpark is full on arrival. Carpooling from home or a nearby location (eg. Hillwood Football Oval) is encouraged to manage current carpark capacity.<br/><br/>There is now a toilet located at the carpark. Please use it as priority - and adhere to "Leave No Trace" principals if elsewhere on the property. Dig a 20cm hole, and bury poop and paper. Even better - carry a poo tube and pack it out after your session. Do not burn your toilet paper!<br/><br/>HeCragCare ishas veryconducted concernedtrack/regrowth aboutclearing inappropriateworks behaviouracross bythe climberssite andto isget worriedit aboutready legalfor liabilityclimbing, etcand resulting fromas such behaviour.<br/><br/>Please respect his decision and keep out.<br/><br/>Gerry Narkowicz and the CCT will be meeting with him soon, hopefully before Easter, to see if we can negotiate a solution to all this but in the interim, please spread the word among the general climbing community to keep awaymany old access routes could have changed since your last visit. Refer to the updated online guide here for any new approach details. Major junctions are now signposted, and all tracks have been flagged with tape - many routes have also had their hardware inspected or rebolted by the CCT.<br/><br/>FurtherThe campaign updatesto willhave beHillwood publishedreopened onto the CCTpublic site (thesarvo.com)was lengthy, and on Facebookcomplex. ForMany morepeople informationhave contactdonated CCT. <br/><br/>" history="" intro="Hillwood is arguably Tasmania's best, sport crag. There are more than 140 excellent routes, the majority of which are fully equipped with fixed hangers and lower offs. The steep rock is a change from the vertical dolerite found elsewhere around Launceston. With great climbing and easy access this cliff has become very popular. The cliffs face all directions at Hillwood, so if in winter you follow the sun and in summer follow the shade it is climbable most of the year. Do not camp at the cliff - the cliff is on private land and access is delicate. Also do not bring dogs, and leave all gates as you found them." name="Hillwood - Closed to Climbing" new="false" rock="Basalt face climbing between 10-30m. The unimproved rock is extremely chossy and lichenous, but lots of cleaning has been done to produce some quality face climbing on cool jugs, incuts and sidepulls. The majority of the routes are equipped with fixed hangers and chains, but a small minority of routes require various amounts of gear. The angle varies from slightly under vertical to very overhanging." sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="5 minutes" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/> <gps id="2"> <point code="HWD000" description="Hillwood main carpark" easting="495728" height="63" northing="5437000" zone="55G" latitude="-41.21837" longitude="146.94904" pid="0"/> <point code="HWD010" description="The Matto Grosso - Wailing Wall (Another Lazy Autumn Day)" easting="495898" height="98" northing="5437016" zone="55G" latitude="-41.21823" longitude="146.95106" pid="1"/> </gps>much time, effort and money to the cause - and even now it is not guaranteed forever. Please understand that climbing at Hillwood is a privilege, and not a right. As a community - we thank both the landowner, and the Georgetown Council for this amazing outcome, and contribution to Tasmanian climbing.<br/><br/>With any luck, and ongoing respect/compliance - access will be continued for many more years to come!! Happy climbing!!<br/><br/>Any concerns or general feedback can be directed to the CCT's new crag stewards program via hillwood@climbersclubtas.org.au" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="*Updated March, '24*<br/><br/>After many years of closure - a temporary lease agreement has been negotiated between the Georgetown Council & the landowner which allows climbing access. The continuation of this lease is dependent on the respect & self governance of the climbing community as a whole, and certain rules are to be adhered to by all. The entire site remains PRIVATE PROPERTY. Please do the right thing, and speak up to any users you encounter who may not be doing so.<br/><br/>- No overnight stays or camping<br/>- No fires or fuel stoves<br/>- No animals or pets<br/>- No firewood collection<br/>- No trespassing onto neighbouring paddocks, or interfering with livestock<br/>- No parking along Craigburn Road if carpark is full<br/><br/>Hillwood is arguably Tasmania's best sport climbing crag. There are more than 140 excellent routes, the majority of which are fully equipped with fixed hangers or (more recently) glue in U's - plus lower-offs. The steep rock is a change from the vertical dolerite found elsewhere around Launceston, and is generally of sound quality. The cliffs face various directions - so if in winter you follow the sun, and in summer follow the shade - it is climbable most of the year. Overall, great climbing with easy access.<br/><br/>Do not camp at the cliff - as the entire property remains PRIVATE LAND and access is still delicate. Do not bring dogs, do not walk across neighbouring paddocks, and leave all gates as you found them." name="Hillwood" new="false" rock="Basalt face climbing between 10-30m featuring cool jugs, slopers, in-cuts and side-pulls. The cliff angle varies from slightly under vertical, to very overhanging" sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="5-10 minutes" id="1" camping="- Strictly NO overnight stays in vehicles or camping on site, nor along Craigburn Road<br/><br/>- The nearby Egg Island Point Reserve is also DAY USE ONLY<br/><br/>- There is a FREE self contained vehicle campground across the river at Swan Point - and "Mike & Annies Front Paddock", a privately run PAID self contained vehicle site at Dilston<br/><br/>- Other options include Low Head, Exeter & Beauty Point<br/><br/>- The nearby Signal Station Tavern also allows overnight stays for self contained vehicles. No tents! Note - there is NO TOILET outside of opening hours (so please don't poop or pee on the lawn, or in the carpark), and it is expected that you grab yourself a beer, counter-meal or make a donation to justify your stay. Let them know you're climbers, say "thanks", and generally be a good human!<br/><br/>- If you do intend to bush/car camp somewhere else nearby, please use public toilets or the port-a-loo in the new carpark (before or after your session) to minimise impact<br/><br/>- Where possible - spend up big $$ in the Georgetown Council area as a way of saying "THANKYOU". Without their generous contribution, Hillwood climbing would most likely remain closed" autonumber="true"/> <text id="50" class="heading3">Crag Steward</text> <text id="51" class="text">Rock climbers please contact the Cliff Steward (hillwood@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag. Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.<br/><br/>Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.</text> <text id="45" class="text">The crags and climbs described here are new ones since the guide was published.</text> <text class="heading3" new="false" value="Guide: * Climb Northern Tasmania by Bob McMahon and Gerry Narkowicz has the full guide. * Climb Tasmania Selected Best has photo topos of the best routes. At some point we might put some photo topos online here." id="3">The Far Side</text> <text id="44" class="text">The crag is situated on the far side of Falcon Crag, hence the name. The Far Side is a 30 metre high slab. There is a ‘big crag’ feel about it. A few of the climbs lead to the ridge top and provide a feeling ‘you have arrived on the top.’ The summit ridge is a great place to end a climb, relax for a while, enjoy the view and then scramble back down for another climb. The names of the climbs come from Gary Larson’s Far Side cartoons. At the base of most climbs is a small name tag. <br/>Caution - this crag leans back, it is a slab. Therefore rocks and blocks, which would normally plummet to the ground as soon as they become detached, remain, leaning back against the main face. The obvious, dangerous ones have been levered off, but some large secure looking ones have been left. Use your own judgement! It is a ‘new’ crag, holds will break off. Dirt and small rocks seem to collect from nowhere on the ledges. Wear a helmet. <br/>These first routes were prepared and bolted by Bill Baxter, with help from Howard Smith, John Gale, Ben Thorp, Fly-fisher Baz and Patrice Baxter. Extra thanks to Baz for making the bolts and Mike Fox for lending his drill. If there are any comments about the grading; SMS Bill 0467 624 874. <br/>Peregrine rules apply. Please stay away between August and December.<br/></text> <image id="38" width="1000" height="709" src="Far Side 3.png"/> <text id="35" class="heading3">The Dairy</text> <text id="36" class="text">Halfway between Silvereye Saddle and Far Side main area.</text> <climb id="10" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="1." name="Ethel the Cow" length="15m" grade="13" fa="B. Baxter, Jan 2015.">A good introduction to the Far Side’s style of climbing.</climb> <text id="32" class="heading3">Crash Test Dummies Wall</text> <text id="33" class="text">A short (10m) steep wall at the start of the main Far Side area. At present it sports 3 climbs.</text> <climb id="25" stars="**" extra="Þ ↓" number="2." name="Crash" length="10m" grade="19" fa="B. Baxter, Feb 2015">The left hand crack line. For the full two star value, don’t be tempted to traverse out left near the top</climb> <climb id="26" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="3." name="Test" length="10m" grade="18" fa="B. Baxter, Feb 2015">Next crack line up the middle.</climb> <climb id="27" stars="" extra="Þ ↓" number="4." name="Dummies" length="10m" grade="16" fa="Bill Baxter, Feb 2015">The right-hand edge</climb> <text id="34" class="heading3">Far Side main area</text> <climb id="11" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="5." name="Bluebird of Happiness" length="25m" grade="18" fa="B. Baxter, Jan 2015.">Takes a direct line up to an overlap at 20m (17, DBB). Either lower off or abseil from here. Alternatively, climb on through the overlap above the slab (5m, 18, DBB).<br/> <br/></climb> <climb id="12" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="6." name="Chicken of Despair" length="22m" grade="17" fa="B. Baxter, Jan 2015."/> <climb id="13" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" number="7." name="Centipede Parking" length="30m" grade="14" fa="B. Baxter, Jan 2015.">1. 15m 14 Straight up. DBB.<br/>2a. 15m 14 Up right, then straight up through the overlaps. DBB.<br/>2b. 15m 15 Alternatively, from the 3rd bolt on pitch 2, traverse left to the wide crack. DBB. <br/></climb> <climb id="43" stars="" extra="Þ ↓ " number="8." name="Parakeet Furniture" length="35" grade="17" fa="B. & P. Baxter, H. Smith, April 2015">Start as for Centipede Parking. Follow the right trending line of bolts.<br/>1. 20m 17 Apart from one crux move at the 4th bolt, it's a grade 10 romp.<br/>2. 15m 14 Left, then up to join pitch 2 of CP through the overlaps.(Rap: 58m)<br/> <br/></climb> <climb id="49" stars="" extra="Þ ↓" number="9." name="Wombat Ballet" length="12m" grade="16" fa="B. Baxter, J. Donohoe, Z Jordan, April 2017"><br/>The thin crack 8m right of Centipede Parking. Alternative easier start up corner on the right.<br/></climb> <climb id="39" stars="**" extra="Þ ↓ " number="10." name="Lemmings on Vacation" length="15m" grade="14" fa="B. Baxter, Mar 2015">10m right of Centipede Parking. A generously bolted crack! <br/>Easy to start, followed by an interesting crack section and ending with a couple of classy face moves.</climb> <climb id="48" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓ " number="11." name="It’s Life Jim" length="20m" grade="21" fa="J. Donohoe, B. Baxter, Z. Jordan, April 2017">Starts 5m right of Lemmings on Vacation.</climb> <image id="41" src="Main Area 04-15.0004.jpg" height="695" width="1000"/> </guide> |
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