Page History

<guide version="3">
  <header access="" history="" intro="This section of the guide describes several small and obscure Mt Wellington crags that don&apos;t really fit anywhere else." acknowledgement="" rock="" sun="" walk="" id="1" name="Mt Wellington Other Crags"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Frustration Buttress</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="3">Rock: Isolated dolerite buttress, about 30m high.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="4">Access: Lies a kilometre to the south of the Organ Pipes. It is on the same level as the Pipes and has a conspicuous platform just above its base. To reach it, go to the junction of the Organ Pipes and Zig Zag tracks, then head uphill.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="5">Climbing Info: Only a handful of routes to date, all trad. Walk off to descend.</text>
  <climb id="6" name="F&apos;er 111" fa="(1) M. Steane, R. Roffe, Oct 1973. (2) M. Steane, A. McGifford, Oct 1975." grade="10" length="30m" extra="" stars="">From the track, climb halfway up the first gully to the R of the Buttress proper, until a conspicuous crag appears on the L. At the cliff base are two clumps of cutting grass, 6m apart. F'er 111 is the easy line above the L hand clump, just L of a small gully. 1. 18m. Up the crack to the obvious belay below two short parallel jam cracks. 2. 12m. Up the LH crack (crux) then step into the RH crack and continue to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="7" name="Terminal Germ" fa="M. Steane, A. McGifford, Oct 1975." grade="11" length="33m" number="" extra="" stars="">The prominent large crack line 5m L of F'er 111. Straight up the crack to a large ledge, then up a short chimney.</climb>
  <climb id="8" name="Midget Crack" fa="G. Batten, A. Keller, Apr 1968." grade="14" length="27m" number="" extra="" stars="">The crack straight up the wall just R of Frustration Platform. 1. 12m. Climb the crack to a ledge. 2. 16m. Jam up to the ledge, then up a narrow chimney to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="9" name="Frustration Platform" fa="U. Aurelli, D. Cox, 1961." grade="11" length="30m" extra="" stars="">30m climb to the platform, make a short traverse to the R, then move up the narrow chimney which splits the upper wall.</climb>
  <climb id="10" name="Dominator" fa="K. Robinson, A. Williams, P. Robinson, C. Godfrey, Dec 1997." grade="20" length="12m" number="" extra="" stars="*">Visible from the Springs, this route follows a thin line up the middle of the slab above Frustration Buttress. Pleasant face climbing, well worth the walk.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="11">Devil's Gulch</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="12">Rock: Isolated dolerite buttresses. A bit loose and broken.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="13">Access:These climbs are around the summit of South Wellington. Climb up the Ice House Track from the Springs to the top Ice House (about a 400m climb).</text>
  <climb id="14" name="Iceman" fa="P. Robinson, Mar 2002." grade="8" length="15m" number="" extra="" stars="">From the top Ice House, cross the boulder field to the south to an attractive little isolated peak just below South Wellington. An obvious line runs up through the blocks in the middle of it.</climb>
  <climb id="15" name="Choc Ice" fa="P. Robinson, Mar 2002." grade="17" length="40m" number="" extra="" stars="">Traverse the boulder field south beyond Iceman for about 100 metres until an impressive lone buttress of orange rock comes into view to the southwest. To the top R of it is a spectacular cairn-like tower of blocks. The climb, which is loose and needs cleaning, takes the corner and crack line up the middle of the buttress. Start by climbing up some large blocks to reach the crack. Rather strenuous higher up.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="16">Roadside Buttress</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="17">Rock: Dodgy dolerite, 25m high.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="18">Access: Situated 600m up the road from the Chalet. The climbing potential at this crag was severely impaired when the main section was demolished in order to re site the road after a landslide in 1961. NB Any rocks (or people) dislodged could land on the road. Climbing Info: What remains today offers little though a small number of easy routes are possible. Only one route has been described, and that is really only included as an historical record.</text>
  <climb id="19" name="y = 1/(1+x)" fa="L. Closs, I. Lewis, S.Karpiniec, Nov. 1973." grade="16" length="24m" number="" extra="" stars="">On the buttress to the L of the main Roadside Buttress. Start L of an easy chimney on the prow of the buttress. Up on small holds to the start of a curving crack. Up this, then climb until below a straight crack. Mantelshelf about 1m to the R of this crack, then follow it to the top. According to Lew, y = 1/(1+x), described the curve of the crack, that should help you find it... or maybe not...</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="20">Gorby's Corner</text>
  <text class="text" id="21">Gorby's Corner is the small sandstone outcrop which forms the base of the fenced-in lookout at The Springs. There are a couple of top rope routes here, which need a good clean. Only one route is recorded here, you'd have to wonder why anyone would bother...</text>
  <climb id="22" name="Termination" fa="G. Narkowicz, 1981." grade="19" number="" extra="" stars="">The arete of Gorby's Corner. Only one bit of gear in the break at half height, essentially a solo.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="23">Crocodile Rock</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="24">Rock: Sandstone outcrop, 8-10 metres high, with a few smaller ones either side. Rock brittle under the overhangs but sound otherwise.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="25">Access: On Hunters Track above Junction Cabin. Quickest foot approach is to park at the Chalet (3.55km from the Springs, GPS MTW600) and follow the track down below the road past the two boulder fields. Look out for the mighty crag on the R. Nice walk in (20 minutes downhill), not so nice walk out (35 minutes uphill). The alternative route will be by mountain bike via the new track being built from Shoobridge Bend to Junction Cabin (GPS MTW610). Leave your bike at the cabin and walk 5 minutes up the track to the crag (GPS MTW620).</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="26">Climbing Info: A sunny, sheltered spot among the trees with a number of surprisingly good top roped climbs - no bolts, please, on this craglet. Technical rather than strenuous. Described from L to R.</text>
  <gps id="27">
    <point height="0" zone="55G" northing="5251397" easting="519237" description="The Chalet" code="MTW600" latitude="-42.88979" longitude="147.23559" pid="0"/>
    <point height="0" zone="55G" northing="5251624" easting="520609" description="Junction Cabin" code="MTW610" latitude="-42.88771" longitude="147.25239" pid="1"/>
    <point height="0" zone="55G" northing="5251697" easting="520172" description="Crocodile Rock" code="MTW620" latitude="-42.88706" longitude="147.24703" pid="2"/>
  </gps>
  <climb id="28" name="Thestral" fa="P. Robinson, Mar 2004." grade="18" length="10m" extra="" stars="">Around the corner L of the main overhang. The steep wall through the blocks, moving R with difficulty on to the slabs. Delicate climbing to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="29" name="Muggar " fa="P. Robinson, Aug 2003." grade="18" length="10m" extra="" stars="">The overhanging crack at the back of the cave, L of the main wall and beneath the large unstable roof. Watch out for brittle rock. Traverse R onto the arête as soon as possible and follow it up, keeping to the edge of the cave.</climb>
  <climb id="30" name="Hedwig" fa="P. Robinson, Aug 2003." grade="16" length="10m" number="" extra="" stars="">A traverse line on the L of the main face, R of the overhangs. Up the short, shallow corner. Traverse L as soon as feasible until one can climb straight up to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="31" name="Muggles" fa="P. Robinson, Aug 2003." grade="13" length="10m" number="" extra="" stars="">Start as for Hedwig. The shallow corner and face to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="32" name="Tomi" fa="P. Robinson, Aug 2003." grade="15" length="10m" number="" extra="" stars="">Another pleasant route, climbing the face up the main part of the cliff. Not as juggy as it looks. Beware of seepage in wet weather.</climb>
  <climb id="33" name="Gharial" fa="P. Robinson, Aug 2003." grade="17" length="10m" number="" extra="" stars="">Delicate face climbing. At the extreme R of the main wall, 1m L of the corner. Straight up.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="34">Three shorter climbs are found to the R of the main corner.</text>
  <climb id="35" name="Slitherin" fa="P. Robinson, Aug 2003." grade="18" length="7m" number="" extra="" stars="">Climb up the nose, immediately R of the corner. Has a thin lower section and a bulging finish.</climb>
  <climb id="36" name="Mungo" fa="P. Robinson, Aug 2003." grade="13" length="7m" number="" extra="" stars="">The middle of the broken face, R of the nose. Mantelshelf finish.</climb>
  <climb id="37" name="Firenze" fa="P. Robinson, Aug 2003." grade="17" length="7m" number="" extra="" stars="">The crack 2m R of Mungo. A good start followed by a thin finish up the wall to a ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="38">Cathedral Rock</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="39">Intro: Cathedral Rock is the abrupt peak you can see to the south of Mt Wellington as you drive out of Kingston towards Huonville. It has always had a reputation as being chossy, but a couple of new bolted routes are providing good value.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="40">Rock: Dolerite.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="41">Access: Drive to the end of Bett's Rd until the car-park and signs for the walking track (Bett's Rd starts halfway between Neika and Longley). From the car-park keep walking up the road following walking track signs (go right at all junctions). The route turns into a single-track and later regains an old 4WD track. It is about 1 hour 40 min (and 600 m height-gain) to the summit. To find the With Angels abseil, from where the walking track finishes walk along the ridge towards Kingston for about 30m. The two U-bolts are not visible from this ridge; look for a rounded boulder just below the ridge (GPS MTW700).</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="42">Gear: These climbs are equipped such that you can get away with one 50m rope and draws. All belays are double U-bolts.</text>
  <gps id="43">
    <point height="0" zone="55G" northing="5246194" easting="515681" description="Cathedral Rock rap station" code="MTW700" latitude="-42.93672" longitude="147.19219" pid="3"/>
    <point height="0" zone="55G" northing="5246175" easting="515694" description="Top rap anchor for The Bells" code="CR-BEL" latitude="-42.93689" longitude="147.19235" pid="4"/>
  </gps>
  <text id="67">There are currently two buttresses with routes developed on them. The first described here is Bells Buttress which is a steep face below the subsidiary pinnacle about 100m east (towards Kingston Beach) of the summit (i.e you walk past the rap for With Angels to get to it).</text>
  <image id="66" width="400" height="600" src="Cathedral_Rock_Bells_Topo2.jpg" legendFooter="Bells Buttress, Cathedral Rock" legendTitle="" legend="true"/>
  <climb id="63" name="The Bishop" fa="Roger Parkyn &amp; Steve Goss, Dec 2011.  " grade="20" length="20m" extra="9Þ" stars="*">Climb up the steep face straight above the belay. After the fourth anchor the climb trends leftwards to a U and then goes further left and into a corner. Up this for a few more U's before climbing the last bulge on the arete right of the final corner. Nine or ten U's.</climb>
  <climb id="64" name="The Actress" fa="Roger Parkyn &amp; Steve Goss, Jan 2012.  " grade="22" length="20m" extra="9Þ" stars="*">Climb The Bishop to the fifth U then, instead of going left to the corner, blast straight up through the headwall. After 3 more U's go right into The Bells (instead of the flakey arete above). Nine U's.</climb>
  <climb id="65" name="The Bells" fa="Steve Goss &amp; Roger Parkyn, Jan 2012.  " grade="23" length="20m" extra="9Þ" stars="**">From the belay climb rightwards to the first bolt then follow the line of U's upwards; sometimes using the arete but mostly on the face to its right. Gently overhanging and sustained; a great forearms workout. Nine U's.</climb>
  <image id="44" width="600" height="820" src="cathedral.png">null</image>
  <climb id="45" name="Alter Ego" fa="R. Parkyn, A. Hill, Apr 2007." grade="22" length="19m" number="" extra="10Þ ↓" stars="**">A LH alternative to the first pitch of With The Angels. 1. 19m 22. Face climbing L of the corner. Briefly climb on the L of the arête after the seventh bolt.</climb>
  <climb id="46" name="With The Angels" fa="R. Parkyn, A. Hill, Apr 2007." grade="19" length="43m" number="" extra="Þ ↓ " stars="**">1. 19m 19. 10B. Start by going down from the belay before crossing R onto the face. 2. 18m 19. 6B. Continue up the face. 3. 5m 12. 1B. Easy exit scramble.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="47">Wellington Falls</text>
  <text class="text" id="48">A couple of routes were done at Wellington Falls in the seventies by Lyle Closs et al. There is potential for some new stuff here. Best access is by mountain bike along the pipeline track, starting at Neika. There are also a couple of sandstone cliffs above and below the pipeline track on the way out there that may have some potential.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="49">Trestle Mt</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="50">Intro: Quite a few routes were done on the south and north sides of Trestle Mt, known as the Shady Side and Sunshine Possibilities respectively. Details of some of these routes have been gleaned from the old Climbers Club of Tasmania circulars, but have not been checked – yet.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="51">Rock: Dolerite, up to 40m high, potential for more routes.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="52">Access: There are three ways to access Trestle Mt: (1) walk from Myrtle Forest near Collinsvale; (2) mountain bike from either end of the East-West trail, or (3) get the key to the gate and four-wheel drive along the fire trail. This is possible during the drier months only, and permits are managed by the Parks and Wildlife Service.</text>
  <text class="indentedHeader" id="53">Climbing Info: The Sunshine Possibilities cliff had a brief period of popularity in the early 70s, but has been neglected ever since – partly due to the access problems but also because of its position high on the top of the range, where it gets all the prevailing weather. Climbs are described roughly L to R. A cliff for the future? Maybe...</text>
  <climb id="54" name="Vandal" fa="L. Closs, B. Bull, Oct 1972." grade="16" length="30m" number="" extra="" stars="">About 17m L of Backfire there is a thin buttress with a chimney on its L side and a small tree about halfway up the face. 1. 30m. Climb up the thin crack in the wall to a niche, then with difficulty move out of this and up to the tree. Step up, then jam the crack straight to the top. A very good finish!</climb>
  <climb id="55" name="Backfire" fa="P. Jackson, J. Moore, B. Bull, May 1971." grade="15" length="36m" number="" extra="" stars="">On the L of the main buttress there is a hand jam crack underneath a bottomless chimney. 1. 23m. Jam up the crack to a tree then layback up to a belay on a ledge to the L of the chimney. 2. 13m. Climb the chimney then, using a low handhold, pull up into the crack and thrutch to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="56" name="Overdrive" fa="B. Bull, P. Jackson, J. Moore, May 1971." grade="18" length="37m" number="" extra="" stars="">Start as for Backfire. 1. 20m. Up the jam crack for 5m, then layback out R to the large crack in the middle of the buttress. Jam up this and belay on foot holds below the overhang. 2. 17m. Continue up to the overhang, pull over then make a hard layback move to gain entrance to a beautiful crack that leads to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="57" name="Differential" fa="I. Lewis, P. Reynolds, Nov 1972. FFA: N. Ward, P. A. Steane, May 1983." grade="17" length="40m" number="" extra="" stars="">Start in the chimney 10m L of Fern. 1. Bridge the chimney and move R. Climb the crack till it thins, then up till a step R can be made and continue up to a ledge. 2. Move up Fern for a metre or so, step out L and continue to the top.</climb>
  <climb id="58" name="Fern " fa="L. Closs, J. Moore, Sep 1972." grade="18" length="40m" number="" extra="" stars="">About 13m R and downhill a bit from Backfire is a corner topped at about 10m by an overhang with a wide crack leading onto the wall above. 1. 40m. Up to the overhang is a beautiful handcrack. Climb out from the overhang, then move quickly (strenuous) to better holds and eventually a ledge. Climb the crack to the top - the last few moves are not easy!</climb>
  <climb id="59" name="Faggot" fa="B. Bull, L. Closs, M. Tillema, D. Batten, Oct 1972." grade="13" length="32m" number="" extra="" stars="">A good climb, well protected and on excellent rock. To the R of Fern, the cliffs are setback, and near the LH end of these cliffs there is a good line with an obvious jam crack halfway up. 1. 32m. Move up the crack, then into the chute, and up to the overhang. Jam out over it, move up and step R onto the arête. Climb this using the edge of the crack past a tree root and up this thin crack to a good edge on the top.</climb>
  <climb id="60" name="Four-Wheel Drive " fa="J. Moore, B. Bull, May 1971." grade="16" length="34m " number="" extra="" stars="">Start in the corner on the RH side of the main buttress there is a large spike at the foot of a "V" corner, with an old tree high up. 1. 30m. Bridge up the corner past the spike, then jam the steep crack to the tree root, then up with a few delicate moves to a large ledge. 2. 20m. Jam the awkward crack to the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="61">Collins Bonnet</text>
  <text class="text" id="62">The cliffs on the west face of Collins Bonnet are mostly broken and of poor quality. However, one striking hanging corner stands out and this has been climbed only once, with pre-placed gear and "head point" style. Ian Lewis and Lyle Closs attempted the line in the 1970s by traversing in from the R but without success - this variation may be possible in ground up style. It is a long walk for one climb, (see general access details as for Trestle Mountain) but there are probably one or two more trad routes to do on the adjacent walls. Best accessed by walking along the scree below the cliff line from the northern end. The climb is easily found about halfway along, with a large gully to the R.&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <climb id="68" name="Fata Morgana" fa="H. and M. Jackson, early 1990s. " grade="23" length="25m" number="" extra="" stars="**">The Mirage. Ascends a striking corner that perches above a blank face. Pre-inspection is recommended, the first ascent team used a pre-placed wire with a long sling to protect the blank face. Ascend easy wall to large spike at 4m (sling). Carefully up blank face (crux) to reach flake with wire placement. Up to roof, then step L into main corner and up. &lt;br/&gt;mid nineties. &lt;br/&gt;</climb>
</guide>