Page History

<guide version="2">
  <text class="heading1" id="1">Other Northern Crags</text>
  <header id="26" name="The Sideling (write up in progress)" walk="15 mins from telecom tower at top of knockup hill" sun="Afternoon sun" rock="Cainozoic Basalt - Lava flow cap and possible vent similar to Hillwood" acknowledgement="" intro="All routes have M10 x 55mm expansion bolt rap chains and M10are xprotected 70mmby glue in carrot bolts and/or natural protection. Bring 64 carrot hangers. Someand small-medium wires and cams could be useful but not required." history="No known previous climbing history to date" access="DIRECTIONS FROM LAUNCESTON&lt;br/&gt;1) Head towards Scottsdale on the A3 Tasman Highway for around 45 kms through thereaching temperate rainforest section of road with many switchback hairpins bends known locally as the Sideling. &lt;br/&gt;2) Leave the Tasman Highway at a hairpin bend andtaking take a right turn down a dirt road signposted Weetaly Road.&lt;br/&gt;3) Take the next right turn down a forestry road signposted Eagle Road. Follow this road for a few kmkms until you reach a T junction signposted Eagle 1 and Eagle 2.&lt;br/&gt;4) At this T junction continue straight over downup a narrow dirt track for 500m until you reach the top of a hill with a telecom tower and turning area at the summit. Park here.&lt;br/&gt; - If you don’t have a 4x4 park at the T junction and walk up the hill to the tower.&lt;br/&gt;5) Walk 10mins (NW) through light scrub following pink flares thealong rocky ridge to the top of the crag approx. 300-400m from tower.&lt;br/&gt;6) Descend by following top of crag down to the right (N) then back round to the left (S) to reach the base of the crag or rap from tree or locate rap chains.&lt;br/&gt;" camping="Free camping in at Springfield recreation ground or in Scottsdale at NE park" autonumber="false"/>
  <climb id="28" stars="**" extra="4CÞ" number="1" name="Pumpernickel" length="12" grade="1819" fa="John Harbinson - Sept 2014">First route on LH side. upUp overhanging face for first 6m with plenty of good jugs and a few bubble pockets. 4 x carrot hangers then on to rap chains.</climb>
  <climb id="30" stars="" extra="Trad" number="2" name="Radiata" length="12" grade="14" fa="John Harbinson - Dec 2014">Rap chains at top.</climb>
  <climb id="31" stars="" extra="Trad" number="3" name="Lechon Baboy" length="14" grade="17" fa="John Harbinson - Dec 2014">Rap chains at top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="7">Devil's Gullet</text>
  <text class="text" id="8">Devil's Gullet is a big dolerite cliff (up to 100m) out the back of Mole Creek, with relatively easy access to a lookout at the top of the cliff. It probably has potential for more routes. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz.</text>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="24" length="15m" name="Interesting Intestines" number="" stars="**" id="9" fa="Nick Hancock &amp; Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.">Abseil 15 m down the east side of the detached pinnacle about 15 metres east of the lookout and swing out and left to a small ledge and DBB on the face of the pinnacle. Climb the arête to the roof and step left onto the sidewall. Make a long reach to the next break and traverse right on jams. Bear hug up the top arête via great moves. 5 bolts.</climb>
  <climb extra="5Þ" grade="26" length="15m" name="Vomit Blood" number="" stars="**" id="10" fa="Nick Hancock Nov 2006.">On the east facing wall, 50 metres down the gully that leads to Henry Barber Buttress, about 150m east of the lookout, GDA 0443747 5386913, is a blank arête with five glued carrots leading to a dead white tree. Make some very entertaining moves to a respite at half height, then some radical barn door laybacking to the top.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="11">This route isn't in the McMahon/Narkowicz guide, but it may be a repeat of an existing route?</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="45m" name="Awanawan" number="" stars="" id="12" fa="Stu Scott, Janine Hopkins, Dec 1991.">About 200m right of the Devil's Gullet lookout. Go to the first obvious gully, descend until you find an obvious very steep handcrack on the corner of the lefthand arete. Traverse 10m to the base of the crack. A fine climb. 1. 18m Steep jamming and excellent bridging to a ledge. 2. 27m Layback up the obvious flake and mixed easier ground to the top. Potential here for a very hard direct finish up the long finger crack, if brushed.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="13">Meadstone Falls</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">Meadstone Falls is a very small dolerite crags up behind the Fingal Valley. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="15">Mt Barrow</text>
  <text class="text" id="16">Mt Barrow has a number of old style alpine ridge routes, and a few face climbs. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="17">The Nook / Badgers</text>
  <text class="text" id="18">The Nook is a conglomerate crag in the Badgers Range, just north of Sheffield. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="19">Tam O'Shanter Bay</text>
  <text class="text" id="20">There is quite a lot of basalt cliff line on the headland to the west of Tam O'Shanter Bay (Black Rock Point), near the township of Lulworth. To get there park at the boat ramp, and walk westwards along the coastline until you get to the cliffs (30 minutes?). You used to be able to 4WD to the top of the cliffs, but the security on the Army range is much tougher now. The first cliffs are columnar, further around is a steeper blocky (and loose looking) cliff. Some easier routes have been done on the columns, the steeper stuff would need cleaning of the loose stuff and bolting. There is more cliff line further west around the coast.</text>
  <gps id="21">
    <point code="TOB000" description="Tam O Shanter Bay - Black Rock Point" easting="504968" height="0" northing="5462582" zone="55G" latitude="-40.98792" longitude="147.05906" pid="0"/>
  </gps>
  <text class="heading2" id="22">Township Creek</text>
  <text class="text" id="23">Township Creek is a series of small dolerite crags out the back of Fingal, with about 50 routes. It's written up in Climb Northern Tasmania by McMahon and Narkowicz. The walk in is quite enjoyable and the setting very pretty. The climbing is a tad chossy, but still nice.</text>
</guide>