Page History

<guide version="3">
  <header access="The main climbing areas, about one hour drive west of Burnie, are reached via the C227 (Rocky Cape Road), turning off the A2 about 2.5 km west of the Rocky Cape township. After about 3 km take the first turn R  to the Burgess Cove crags, or the second turn R to the Light House (signposted) and the main climbing area. Park at the start of the walking track to North Cave (GPS RCP000).    &lt;br/&gt;National Park fees apply and can be purchased from the General Store at Sisters Beach, the Rocky Cape Roadhouse (on the highway as you turn into the park), and Service Tasmania statewide. Camping is prohibited in the Park and there is no fresh-water near the climbs. The nearest camping is at the Rocky Cape township, Peggs Beach just past Port Latta on the way to Stanley (free camping, no water), or Boat Harbour. Toilets are available at Burgess Cove and Mary Ann Cove.    &lt;br/&gt;Phytophthora, root rot, is a problem in the park so please make sure your boots are clean before and after your visit." acknowledgement="by Tony McKenny (based on an original guide by Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Rima Truchanas), originally published in Craglets 6." history="Glen Kowalik was the leading mover and groover back in the early seventies with ascents of Zorro and Shelob Stairs, two quality lines, but the main period of exploration was in the late seventies and early eighties. Local activists from the north west coast including John Richardson, Tony McKenny, Robert (Bird) Hamilton and Bevis (Fred) Dutton were responsible for pioneering a number of the better routes including the excellent Vader and Jamboree, but it was the dynamic duo of a youthful Nic Deka and Neale Smith, backed up by Nick Williams, who pushed up the grades, and the quality, with classics such as Juggernaut, Virgin on the Ridiculous and the desperate Scary Monster." intro="Opportunities for quality climbing are a bit thin on the ground in the Northwest of the State but the Rocky Cape crag is a gem. Located at the western end of the National Park, these orange and white quartzites are amongst the oldest rocks in Tasmania, dating from around 1.5 billion years ago when this part of Tasmania seems to have been part of North America.&lt;br/&gt;The crags offer a range of climbs in  idyllic settings beside the sea.  The main crag above Cave Bay has superb quality rock particularly at the north (L) end, hard and glassy, and steep although the rest of the crag is a bit more broken and a little loose in places. Most of the climbs can be climbed in one (at times, long, rope stretching) 50m pitch although many were climbed originally in two pitches or more. Decent from the cliff can be made down the gully just L of Vader, and R of North Cave. Check out it&apos;s position - some kind soul has equipped part of it but it can be difficult to locate from the top. A small cairn marks the top of the gully. Another exit is to walk to the southern (R) end of the cliff and walk down the path. There are also some climbs in Burgess Cove although the rock quality here is not so good.    &lt;br/&gt;This area is of great spiritual significance to the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, and Aboriginal sites such as the cave and middens are fully protected by law. Please respect the historic and spiritual values they represent by leaving them as you found them. We recommend that climbers avoid the routes round the North Cave area in particular.    &lt;br/&gt;" name="Rocky Cape" rock="Quartzite 10-25m" sun="Afternoon sun" walk="10mins" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <gps id="2">
    <point code="RCP000" description="Rocky Cape - North Cave" easting="374668" height="0" northing="5476025" zone="55G" latitude="-40.85725" longitude="145.51298" pid="0"/>
    <point pid="1" description="Cathedral Rocks" latitude="-40.87888" longitude="145.51928" easting="375239" northing="5473632" zone="55H" code="RCP001" height="0"/>
  </gps>
  <text class="heading2" id="3">Rocky Cape Cliff</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="4">Zorro Wall</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="rocky cape main wall LHS.jpg" width="800" id="5" legend="true" legendx="10" legendy="10" legendTitle="Zorro Wall " height="600">
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  <text class="text" id="6">The northern (LH ) end of the crag finishes with a very distinct orange wall (Zorro Wall) above Cave Bay. A rough track can be followed past the Lookout, down to the Bay. An obvious feature on the Wall is a ramp leading L from the high water mark which provides the first pitch for a number of climbs and which stops you getting your feet wet. However, the first few climbs are still best accessed at low tide.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="Scary Monster" number="" stars="*" id="7" fa="Neale Smith, Nic Deka">Located in the back gully behind (round to the L of) the Zorro Wall. At the top of the gully, on the RH gully wall. Overhung finger crack into bottomless groove and then up the bulging headwall moving slightly R to finish on slabs of Ent. Poorly protected and probably unrepeated.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="15m" name="One Crowded Hour" number="" stars="*" id="8" fa="Nic Deka, Roxanne Wells">Takes the weakness up the very overhanging wall about 5m R of Scary Monsters. If you're feeling strong, have a go.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="10" length="" name="Ent" number="1." stars="" id="9" fa="Bevis Dutton, Mike Norris">Follow LH skyline.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Seven" number="2." stars="" id="10" fa="Robert Hamilton, John Wood">Follow obvious diagonal chimney to meet with left hand leaning ramp and belay. Move left and follow widish crack to meet with Ent.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="End of Works" number="3." stars="**" id="11" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Williams">Climb diagonally up a chimney and continue on through the second pitch of Zorro to belay. Pitch 2.Continue on the diagonal line, jamming awkwardly through the roof. Maintain a diagonal line through to the end of cliff.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Jamboree" number="4." stars="*" id="12" fa="John Richardson, Neale Smith">1. Climb leftwards-leaning ramps as for Zorro, to same belay as above. 2. Continue straight up over small roof and into corner above. Move slightly L to exit.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Zorro" number="5." stars="***" id="13" fa=" Glen Kowalik, Phil Robinson  ">Superb climbing, great position. 1. Climb the leftwards trending ramp to where it meets the R leading diagonal. Belay. 2. Move diagonally R (quite awkward) to a belay beneath the roof, below the large patch of guano (look also for rotten slings). 3. Step L, climb roof and face above until it eases. 4. Head to middle of steep headwall and climb directly up this. Continue to the very top of the ridge. A direct alternative to pitch3 climbs through the roofs straight above the belay at the end of pitch 2 (17).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="15m" name="The Nose" number="6." stars="" id="14" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith">Climbs the prominent prow a couple of metres to the L of Virgin on the Ridiculous.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="" name="Virgin on the Ridiculous" number="7." stars="**" id="15" fa="Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Nick Williams">Direct start to Zorro. 1. Climb slightly overhanging orange face to belay point on second pitch of Zorro. 2. Exit up Zorro or via the direct finish over the roof (17).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Relapse" number="8." stars="*" id="16" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling">1. Climb straight up to LH edge of Juggernaut and pass over roof at this point. Continue awkwardly to same belay point as Juggernaut. 2. Finish up either Zorro or Juggernaut.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="50m" name="Juggernaut" number="9." stars="***" id="17" fa="Neale Smith, Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton">Superb climbing and solid for the grade. Locate triangular roof RH side Zorro Wall. 1. Climb directly up and turn this to the R to a belay. 2. From belay, up three metres, then traverse R three metres, climb overhanging pink face above.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Tripping the Light Fantastic" number="10." stars="**" id="18" fa="Tony McKenny, Nick Williams">Locate curving roof on far RH wall. Climb directly up gully to this, and traverse L underneath, continuing across face and finish up in region of third pitch of Zorro.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Lazy Sunday" number="11." stars="" id="19" fa="Nick Williams, Neale Smith">Climb chimney at RH end of Zorro wall. Finish can be made either up the corner or moving out R up slab.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="20">Pink Elephant Area</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="rocky cape central.jpg" width="" id="21" legend="true" legendx="10" legendy="10" legendTitle="Central Area" height="487">
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  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Rockwork Orange" number="1." stars="" id="22" fa="Nick Williams, Neale Smith">1. Climbs orange overhanging prow 10 metres R of Lazy Sunday to leftwards-leaning chimney. Belay just above chimney to avoid rope drag. 2. Continue on prow to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="" name="Nazgul" number="2." stars="" id="23" fa="Robert Hamilton, Graeme Marshall">Just R of Rockwork Orange. Climb leftwards leading diagonal line. This eventually meets up with Rockwork Orange and follows this to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Pink Elephant" number="3." stars="*" id="24" fa="Glen Kowalik">Locate obvious chimney R of Nazgul. Pink Elephant climbs the face immediately L of chimney.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="" name="Ate" number="4." stars="" id="25">Climb chimney. Steve Brown</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Simba" number="5." stars="" id="26" fa="Robert Hamilton, John Wood">After the first three metres of Ate, step right and climb diagonally R under overhang, then straight up face above.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Beeline" number="6." stars="" id="27" fa="Tony McKenny, Fred Dutton">Up three metres as before, traverse R up ramp approximately 3 metres and cross overhang at this point. Continue straight up face above.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Bird&apos;s Line" number="7." stars="*" id="28" fa="Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Bevis Dutton">Start on ramps to R of Ate. 1. Follow these to a belay under largest part of obvious overhang. 2. Climb through overhang at weakest point and swing airily L. Continue straight up face above.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="" name="God Knows" number="8." stars="" id="29" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Vance Murphy">1. Climb same ramps as for Birds Line but continue through to their extremity. Continue straight up to a belay just R of a tree-choked gully. 2. Climbs crack in the face above to finish.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="30">North Cave Area</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="rocky cape descent area.jpg" width="" id="31" legend="true" legendy="10" legendx="450" legendTitle="North Cave" height="612">
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  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Crescent" number="3." stars="" id="32" fa="Basil Rathbone, Ross Mansfield">This is the line left of Sickle. A shallow corner near the top provides the main difficulties of the climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Sickle" number="4." stars="" id="33" fa="Robert Hamilton, Graeme Marshall.">1. Climb up L edge of North Cave and through small overhand heading L slightly to a belay to avoid rope drag. 2. From belay follow a rightwards line to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Mystery Tour" number="5." stars="" id="34" fa="Nick Williams, Nic Deka">Climb face to R of cave heading for the apex of cave itself. Step airily across lip of cave onto a slab leading to the L. Follow this slab and then head straight up face above.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Ripping Yarns" number="6." stars="" id="35" fa="Shane Pinner, Murray Hewitt">Climb to apex of cave via Mystery Tour. Instead of heading L climb shallow corner straight above apex.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Anal Interuptus" number="7." stars="*" id="36" fa="Glen Kowalik">On face R of Cave, climb the two obvious cracks in face, moving slightly L near top. This climb provides some 'quite awkward' moves.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Doggy Do" number="8." stars="" id="37" fa="Bevis Dutton, Robert Hamilton">The climbing is better than the name - well, it has to be, doesn't it. This is the corner immediately R of Anal Interruptus. A few layback moves start the climb. These moves lead to a ledge with a tree. Climb slab immediately above ledge.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="7" length="11m" name="Countdown" number="9." stars="" id="38" fa=" Neale Smith, Nic Deka, S. Ridgeway, R Dowling">To the R of Doggy Do, near lowest point of the cliff line before the gully. Climb the spur, heading towards the bulge with the layaway edge (appears to be an off width from the ground).</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="11m" name="Rocket Man" number="10." stars="" id="39" fa="Neale Smith, Nic Deka, S. Ridgeway, R Dowling">Just R of Countdown. Start around the corner to the L. Long reaches between jugs.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="40">The Ramp Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="41">Follow base of cliff around past Rocket Man to a large gully (descent gully). Locate the largest slab on the face and find an obvious overhanging crack at the bottom edge. This is Vader.</text>
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  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Vader" number="1." stars="**" id="43" fa="John Richardson, Robert Hamilton.">1. Climb crack on awkward jams and pull strenuously into vertical position. A belay can be made on ledge at the top of the crack. 2. Traverse awkwardly R across face to the obvious ramp and climb this to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Silent Slab" number="2." stars="*" id="44" fa="Neale Smith, John Richardson">1. Climb the wide slab from which Vader starts, to a point below a shallow corner where the slab runs out. A belay can be made here. 2. Climb corner, strenuous and fairly poor protection to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Shelob Stairs" number="3." stars="***" id="45" fa="Mark Chin, Glen Kowalik, Rick Roles">1. Start slightly R of bottom of gully up a longer obvious crack line to a belay below a slab which runs R parallel to Silent Slab but on a lower level. 2. Climb slab R to where it finishes and head up prow to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Narrow Steps" number="4." stars="*" id="46" fa="John Richardson, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton">This is a narrow slab below Shelob Stairs and parallel to it. 1. Start up first four metres or so of Shelob Stairs and step R on to narrow slab. Climb this until it finishes and belay. 2. Step across gully and finish up slab out to the R.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="" name="Sky Walker" number="5." stars="*" id="47" fa="Nic Deka, Shane Pinner">Locate cracks which lead up steep wall to a point halfway along Narrow Steps. This is a strenuous and technically difficult climb. Finish up Narrow Steps.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Any Which Way but Loose" number="6." stars="" id="48" fa="Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.">Takes a line of weakness from half way along Golden Stairs directly to the top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Golden Stairs" number="7." stars="*" id="49" fa="Graeme Marshall, John Richardson.">Climb slab R of Skywalker. As the name suggests the rock is mainly orange in colour. Excellent beginners climb.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Crusties" number="8." stars="" id="50" fa="Tony McKenny and Nick Williams">Another in-filler, takes a line 10m to R of Golden Stairs, joining it at half height.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Cornered Dog" number="9." stars="**" id="51" fa="Nic Deka, Robert Hamilton">A little difficult to locate. Right at start of Golden Stairs is another slab which although reasonably wide is very short. About one third of the way up this, a very shallow corner system leads continuously leftwards to a finish just R of the Golden Stairs finish. The climbing is on sloping holds and is quite strenuous.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Girdle Traverse" number="" stars="**" id="52" fa="Tony McKenny, Nick Williams, 1982.">A girdle traverse has been made of the whole cliff from L to R, reversing Tripping the Light Fantastic and taking a mid-line above the caves to finish up Golden Stairs.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="53">Burgess Cove</text>
  <text class="text" id="54">There are two cliffs at Burgess Cove, both impressive on first site but a tad disappointing on close inspection.</text>
  <text class="heading3" id="55">Flagpole Cliff</text>
  <text class="text" id="56">Park by the start of the walking track to South Cave, and the crag is directly beside you. The routes are fairly obvious from the topo and need little description. Of them all, the Little Gem's name says it all really.</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="rocky cape flagpole.jpg" width="" id="57" legend="true" legendTitle="Flagpole Cliff" legendx="5" legendy="5" height="478">
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  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="" name="McKenny&apos;s Route" number="1." stars="" id="58" fa="Tony McKenny and Lynne Dutton">On the L of the crag.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="11" length="" name="The Little Gem" number="2." stars="" id="59" fa="Tony McKenny and Bevis Dutton.">Best of the bunch. Up the pillar to the L and then step R onto main face. Straight up to top.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="" name="Cheesal" number="3." stars="" id="60" fa="Bevis Dutton and Mick Norris."/>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Crinkle Cut" number="4." stars="" id="61" fa="Bevis Dutton and Graham Marshall.">Come in from the R.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="62">South Cave</text>
  <text class="text" id="63">Continue past the Flagpole Cliff to the severly overhung, orange cliff of South Cave, about two minutes walk. About 20m to the R of this is a similarly overhanging white cliff with a wide ramp as a base about 3 to 4m above the level of the cave. Halfway up the ramp is a nearly horizontal roof with a pile of fallen blocks that created it underneath.The following climb starts at the RH end of the roof.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="35m" name="Burnt" number="" stars="" id="64" fa="H. and M. Jackson, Dec 1992.">A classy climb with a suprising pump! 1. 30m. Climb along the diagonal lines of rock to the nose, high above the cave. From here, continue directly up past some loose rock to the large bushy ledge. 2. 5m. Climb easily up the L corner to top.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="65">Burgess Cliff</text>
  <text class="text" id="66">Drive to the parking area at the east end (R) of the beach. Walk along coastline east and up to the crag, a couple of hundred metres in all. Again, a bit disappointing as the angle of the slabs is quite low. Still, worth a look. Most of the lines are pretty obvious from the topo.</text>
  <image noPrint="false" src="rocky cape burgess.jpg" width="" id="67" legend="true" legendTitle="Burgess Cliff" legendx="500" legendy="10" height="408">
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  <climb extra="" grade="8" length="" name="Ochre Slab" number="1." stars="" id="68" fa="Bevis Dutton and Mick Norris"/>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Psychopath" number="2." stars="" id="69" fa="Robert (Bird) Hamilton and John Richardson, Bevis Dutton."/>
  <climb extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Psycho" number="3." stars="" id="70" fa="Robert (Bird) Hamilton and John Richardson, Bevis Dutton."/>
  <climb extra="" grade="13" length="" name="Big Slab" number="4." stars="" id="71" fa="Robert (Bird) Hamilton and John Richardson, Bevis Dutton."/>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="" name="Psychoslabmatic" number="5." stars="" id="72" fa="Nic Deka and Vance Murphy.">A harder connecting line, up the steeper wall between Psycho and Big Slab.</climb>
  <text id="74" class="heading2">Cathedral rock</text>
  <text id="75" class="text">Probably climbed on in the past (please feel free to edit if aware of any prior ascents/history). Fun little crag in a stunning setting - climbing here on a sunny summer's day is a wonderful experience. Just under an hour of pleasant walking from the carpark - is well sign posted (Rocky Cape Rd) on Postman's Pass track. After twenty minutes or so you will come to Postman's Pass, turn left and walk along the coastal track for another twenty minutes or so. You will be able to see cathedral rocks on the left. The king line is Rorogwela, which is probably one of the best trad routes in the North-West. Definitely worth a visit for aspiring North-West tradsters. Please note that this was developed as a trad only area and is a 'no bolt' zone.</text>
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  <climb id="76" stars="" extra="" number="1" name="Manual disimpaction" length="18m" grade="14" fa="M. Lopez, YC Foong 2015">Not a particularly pleasant experience. Up the obvious right hand crack of the face you first get to with some bushes about 5m below the top.</climb>
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  <climb id="79" stars="*" extra="" number="3" name="Groupthink" length="25m" grade="16" fa="O Cameron, YC Foong Feb 2017">The first 10-15m is pleasant steep climbing. The next line left of Hands-free manual disimpaction.</climb>
  <climb id="80" stars="***" extra="" number="4" name="Rorogwela" length="25m" grade="23" fa="YC Foong, O Cameron Feb 2017 ">A stonker of a route, probably one of the best trad routes in the North-West. Named after a Solomon Island folk tune which was plagarised by the French band Deep Forest without due recognition. Obvious line on the seawards face of the crag. Start on block in the middle of the face, up this for about 5m, then move right to the start of the left-trending flake. Up this until there is a massive rail on the left - from here go straight up the the pod halfway up the climb. Have a breather in the pod in a stunning position. Then up with a slight leftward trend to top - a fun crux sequence with incredible exposure.</climb>
  <climb id="81" stars="**" extra="" number="5" name="Rorogwela variant" length="25m" grade="23" fa="YC Foong, B French Dec 2015">As above - at the massive rail on the left traverse left on this, up and then rejoin the line at the pod. Avoids the first reachy crux on Rorogwela.</climb>
  <climb id="82" stars="*" extra="" number="6" name="Grandma Baz" length="18m" grade="16" fa="B French, YC Foong Dec 2015">Start about 3 metres to the left of Rorogwela. Up faint line, then up the the middle break. Straight up over a steep finish.</climb>
  <climb id="91" stars="" extra="" number="7" name="Exit route" length="" grade="3" fa="">Obvious gully to the left of Grandma Baz. Easy down scramble.</climb>
  <climb id="86" stars="*" extra="" number="8" name="Cymande" length="12m" grade="12" fa="YC Foong, O Cameron, Z Gilovitz 2015">The lichenous looking crack 3m to the right of Chocolate and cruskits. Actually not a bad line with good exposure for the grade.</climb>
  <climb id="84" stars="" extra="" number="9" name="Chocolate and cruskits" length="12m" grade="14" fa="O Cameron, YC Foong, M Bassett 2015">Some would say a terrible idea. The wide looking crack in the middle of the landwards face.</climb>
  <climb id="85" stars="" extra="" number="10" name="Gula Melaka" length="12m" grade="14" fa="YC Foong 2015">The crack 3m to the left of Chocolate and cruskits.</climb>
  <climb id="83" stars="" extra="" number="11" name="Have a shag on the nice flat rock under this instead" length="10m" grade="15" fa="YC Foong 2015">Meh. The line opposite the actual crag with a flake at the top. Title is self-explanatory.</climb>
</guide>