- CCT Public Page
- [CCT Members Area]
Page History
| Guide |
|---|
<guide version="3">
<header id="1" access="Flange Buttress is accessed from the climbers' carpark. Walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for 150m, to the signposted Flange Buttress track heading uphill to the right (GPS MTW030). The track heads up initially through bush, then follows a prominent boulder lead before reentering the bush close to the base of the cliff near Bert's Fear, an obvious body-width chimney. The track forks left and right just below here.<br/><br/>Taking the fork down hill to the left provides access to routes between Drama Queen and Precarious. To access routes right of Precarious, follow the righthand fork.<br/><br/>With the exception of Pooch Gully and Bert's Fear, all routes are between 20m and 60m in length. Many of the routes finish on the big ledge at the top of Brown Madonna.<br/><br/>To descend climbs in this area, there are rap anchors on Princess (20m), Influenza (28m), Nefarious (25m), Bert's Butter Menthol (28m), Chop Sticks the Sequel (35m), Neon God (2x 25m), After Midnight (50m), Pleasant Screams (2x 30m) and Brown Madonna (50m).<br/><br/>Bert's Fear is the only route on this buttress that continues to the top of the Pipes. Descent from the top of Bert's Fear (GPS MTW170), requires three abseils (1x 15m; 1x 35m) and a final rap down Brown Madonna (50m)." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="Flange Buttress is the compact reddish buttress situated between Central Buttress and the Columns. Pooch Gully flags the LH end of Flange Buttress, while the deep chimney of Brown Madonna marks the RH end where it merges with the Columns.<br/><br/>Flange Buttress is a popular crag with a large number good quality sport and trad routes. It is often warmer here than other parts of the Pipes particularly on cool and wintry days. Abseil access off the crag is abundant and straight forward.<br/><br/>" name="Flange Buttress" rock="Dolerite faces and arêtes up to 60m. Quite a few sport routes." sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min uphill" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
<image id="30" width="1000" height="1222" src="flange from below 2000.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Flange Buttress" legendx="11" legendy="12">
<drawing>
<path id="63834" points="122,1198, 128,1105, 122,1081, 122,1026, 118,990, 119,938, 140,870, 175,851, 202,791, 226,779, 281,653, 344,626," d="M122,1198C124.4,1160.8 128,1114.8954535014823 128,1105C128,1095.1045464985177 122.74939516793972,1090.8670363778729 122,1081C121.25060483206028,1071.1329636221271 122.63624789006045,1040.4746394988751 122,1026C121.36375210993955,1011.525360501125 118.49364332804997,1004.4802042894661 118,990C117.50635667195003,975.5197957105339 115.24848682325496,958.462799145882 119,938C122.75151317674504,917.537200854118 131.3780346334564,883.3948390515945 140,870C148.6219653665436,856.6051609484055 165.16520478977978,863.5314326065709 175,851C184.83479521022022,838.4685673934291 195.7960668824392,799.758493813027 202,791C208.2039331175608,782.241506186973 220.66761065634554,788.3148067015736 226,779C231.33238934365446,769.6851932984264 264.2562758792667,674.7100829701034 281,653C297.7437241207333,631.2899170298966 328.19098669899097,640.4442063973248 344,626" linkedTo="19"/>
<path id="47620" points="300,1154, 231,1048, 225,970, 248,817, 277,702, 299,656, 344,627," d="M300,1154C272.4,1111.6 242.81144123805205,1076.977402504021 231,1048C219.18855876194795,1019.022597495979 222.70332384911768,1001.2077759325775 225,970C227.29667615088232,938.7922240674225 238.9637360528369,863.5715141892251 248,817C257.0362639471631,770.4284858107749 270.8407638778805,721.4438630521812 277,702C283.1592361221195,682.5561369478188 285.41186060810105,671.2106037969019 299,656C312.58813939189895,640.7893962030981 328.19098669899097,641.4442063973248 344,627" linkedTo="18"/>
<rect style="white_text_on_solid_black" id="39308" width="66" height="22" x="382" y="142" text="Circus Wall" arrowDirection="south"/>
<path id="17612" points="339,1145, 430,526,belay" d="M339,1145C375.40000000000014,897.4 393.59999999999996,773.6 430,526" linkedTo="17"/>
<path id="87631" points="442,1094, 443,1014, 503,686, 543,677, 552,596,belay 502,550, 506,427,belay" d="M442,1094C442.4,1062 438.2679088610855,1045.6507079455264 443,1014C447.7320911389145,982.3492920544736 498.3345978840413,701.722405130781 503,686C507.6654021159587,670.277594869219 535.158040431541,691.4035992073736 543,677C550.841959568459,662.5964007926264 553.9227945127566,618.8171615513787 552,596C550.0772054872434,573.1828384486213 509.137469738227,576.2224431687036 502,550C494.862530261773,523.7775568312964 504.40000000000003,476.2 506,427" linkedTo="15"/>
<path id="24682" points="552,596, 578,545, 575,468,label 583,385, 603,334,lower" d="M552,596C550.0772054872434,573.1828384486213 573.950366470758,567.5370909453469 578,545C582.049633529242,522.4629090546531 574.0372397406035,498.80832830068726 575,468C575.9627602593965,437.19167169931274 578.5180580516252,406.4492936100795 583,385C587.4819419483748,363.5507063899205 600.5064721190043,350.3860403608284 603,334" linkedTo="28"/>
<path id="31399" points="564,884, 587,644, 597,535, 604,460, 610,375, 604,334," d="M564,884C573.1999999999999,788 582.8784346221803,687.5886762684571 587,644C591.1215653778197,600.4113237315429 594.2280204632686,565.0026020446218 597,535C599.7719795367314,504.99739795537823 601.5599471858094,490.0314192515765 604,460C606.4400528141906,429.9685807484235 610,391.57467948408055 610,375C610,358.42532051591945 601.5064721190043,350.3860403608284 604,334" linkedTo="14"/>
<path id="75900" points="599,831, 610,682, 617,565, 626,447, 635,348, 614,305,belay 623,271, 640,215, 664,133,belay" d="M599,831C603.4,771.4 606.8346587101628,728.7767101720381 610,682C613.1653412898372,635.2232898279619 613.815292212451,611.7753956296249 617,565C620.184707787549,518.2246043703751 622.7129508090165,486.6272041357456 626,447C629.2870491909835,407.3727958642544 636.6118528860341,367.07359248473614 635,348C633.3881471139659,328.92640751526386 616.1663291651327,318.9006121429344 614,305C611.8336708348673,291.0993878570656 619.0954599503798,284.51571555637776 623,271C626.9045400496202,257.48428444362224 633.3330550922559,237.43996090899236 640,215C646.6669449077441,192.56003909100764 654.4,165.8 664,133" linkedTo="12"/>
<rect style="white_text_on_solid_black" id="17539" width="106" height="22" x="832" y="15" text="Cairn Column Area" arrowDirection="south"/>
<path id="66450" points="628,831, 639,697, 649,566, 661,480, 671,420,lower 670,336, 678,276, 684,243, 707,203,lower" d="M628,831C632.4,777.4 634.8484812109616,749.3882132902455 639,697C643.1515187890384,644.6117867097545 645.4966133120105,600.5561323315329 649,566C652.5033866879895,531.4438676684671 657.37460536789,504.0594371040028 661,480C664.62539463211,455.9405628959972 669.4822707930842,444.28366731065296 671,420C672.5177292069158,395.71633268934704 668.8243968274367,360.18383669273055 670,336C671.1756031725633,311.81616330726945 676.002828455665,289.26692525879673 678,276C679.997171544335,262.73307474120327 679.0467338019067,255.46856663657962 684,243C688.9532661980933,230.53143336342038 697.8,219 707,203" linkedTo="10"/>
<path id="7301" points="" d=""/>
<path id="38151" points="672,420, 715,376, 720,313,label 708,203," d="M672,420C689.2,402.4 704.9275423716066,398.4531867966269 715,376C725.0724576283934,353.5468132033731 721.0220231518758,338.25857218207375 720,313C718.9779768481242,287.74142781792625 711.8251437420106,218.62844443164315 708,203" linkedTo="27"/>
<path id="20315" points="791,728,label 780,470, 770,419,belay 757,284, 752,214, 728,191, 708,157,label 705,133,belay" d="M791,728C786.6,624.8 781.4095564249325,490.74061596686397 780,470C778.5904435750675,449.25938403313603 767.5425362658888,439.6426953665341 770,419C772.4574637341112,398.3573046334659 759.455353540675,311.96374865768706 757,284C754.544646459325,256.03625134231294 754.9257308517241,226.97074010931024 752,214C749.0742691482759,201.02925989068976 736.1249262291733,201.5254726150654 728,191C719.8750737708267,180.4745273849346 711.5663466834897,165.99339598445226 708,157C704.4336533165103,148.00660401554774 706.2,142.6 705,133" linkedTo="7"/>
<path id="80950" points="888,690, 859,562, 835,368, 811,141,lower" d="M888,690C876.4,638.8 867.5261888030274,613.8006187655624 859,562C850.4738111969726,510.1993812344376 843.8575671935695,445.6882455935993 835,368C826.1424328064305,290.3117544064007 820.6,231.8 811,141" linkedTo="6"/>
<rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="16445" width="63" height="22" x="33" y="931" text="to Kacktus" arrowDirection="west"/>
<path id="79976" points="754,214, 753,174,label 750,138," d="M754,214C751.0742691482759,201.02925989068976 753.7594705919985,188.42994124797082 753,174C752.2405294080015,159.57005875202918 751.2,152.4 750,138" labelText="2b"/>
<path id="22165" points="660,843, 662,672, 695,653, 709,601, 717,485, 770,419," d="M660,843C660.8000000000001,774.6 659.2406160835932,686.9795126890656 662,672C664.7593839164068,657.0204873109344 686.5923844046008,665.7008661121988 695,653C703.4076155953992,640.2991338878012 706.2030789834331,622.3583059446925 709,601C711.7969210165669,579.6416940553075 706.2400898876305,517.1033383680534 717,485C727.7599101123695,452.89666163194664 767.5425362658888,439.6426953665341 770,419" linkedTo="9"/>
<path id="60004" points="758,845, 752,672, 750,588, 750,464, 741,373, 734,275, 731,235, 708,202," d="M758,845C755.6,775.8 753.0457043065371,705.5932508475034 752,672C750.9542956934629,638.4067491524966 750.3231535468582,621.6079688732472 750,588C749.6768464531418,554.3920311267528 751.5298151188726,500.5455833952896 750,464C748.4701848811274,427.4544166047104 744.0854789117856,409.44721964546716 741,373C737.9145210882144,336.55278035453284 735.1596359501942,291.00297611268036 734,275C732.8403640498058,258.99702388731964 736.3833777534775,250.1148683078406 731,235C725.6166222465225,219.8851316921594 711.8251437420106,217.62844443164315 708,202" linkedTo="8"/>
<path id="88338" points="320,1149, 317,1106, 266,1058, 274,961, 288,824, 297,767, 313,699, 344,628,lower" d="M320,1149C318.8,1131.8 325.798847018251,1120.8276866418676 317,1106C308.201152981749,1091.1723133581324 273.96483703606697,1084.858171400691 266,1058C258.03516296393303,1031.141828599309 270.355821799442,999.7608044968442 274,961C277.644178200558,922.2391955031558 285.2824514557423,846.9219311993908 288,824C290.7175485442577,801.0780688006092 292.4731569839117,789.6342150804417 297,767C301.5268430160883,744.3657849195583 304.0495319762111,725.4705330916311 313,699C321.9504680237889,672.5294669083689 328.19098669899097,642.4442063973248 344,628" linkedTo="34"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>19</climb>
<climb>18</climb>
<climb>34</climb>
<climb>17</climb>
<climb>15</climb>
<climb>28</climb>
<climb>14</climb>
<climb>12</climb>
<climb>10</climb>
<climb>27</climb>
<climb>9</climb>
<climb>8</climb>
<climb>7</climb>
<climb>6</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="25" name="Pooch Gully" number="1." extra="↓" grade="8" length="100m" stars="" fa="P. Sands, J. Spinks, Mar 1962 (assisted by a Golden Labrador in the lower stages).">Nice in December when the waratah are in flower. Follow the vegetated gully on the LH end of Flange Buttress all the way to the rap anchors at the top of Brown Madonna. The line can be varied at will.</climb>
<climb id="24" name="Drama Queen" number="2." extra="3Þ ↓" grade="24" length="20m" stars="" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1997.">Straight up the nose of the minor buttress 10m L of Nefarious. A crack (natural gear) leads to 3 bolts up the arête.</climb>
<climb id="32" name="Princess" number="3." extra="9Þ" grade="19" length="20m" stars="**" fa="R. Parkyn, J. Parkyn, Nov 2014. ">Pleasant face climbing on the wall right of Drama Queen. There is a crux getting up the first part of the headwall.</climb>
<climb id="35" stars="*" extra="14Þ" number="4." name="Influenza" length="28m" grade="21" fa="D. Humphries, J. Nermut, Dec 2015.">An enjoyably old-school climb replete with bridging, a jam or two, remnant vegetation, and a steep bit. Start as for Princess to the top of the first pillar then step across the ledge to the base of the line.</climb>
<climb id="23" name=" Nefarious" number="5." extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="25m" stars="**" fa="R. Parkyn, Jan 1996.">A quality and popular sport route. The arête and face between Pooch Gully and Slippery Sensation, round to the left of the lowest point of Flange Buttress. The crux is towards the top (some of the bolts after this are not visible from below).</climb>
<climb id="22" name="Slippery Sensation" number="6." extra="↓" grade="20" length="25m" stars="**" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, A. Wing, Apr 1981.">Provides a guaranteed workout. R of Nefarious and on the LH side of the Just a Little Bit Longer arête is a thin crack line splitting the steep south facing wall. Climb the RH crack for 7m, move into the LH one, and continue up into a scoop. Finger jam through the bulge and continue to just below a bush. Traverse L and around the arête to belay at the rap station at the top of Nefarious (25m rap).</climb>
<climb id="21" name="Slipper" number="7." extra="" grade="20" length="30m" stars="**" fa="K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jan 1998.">Start as for Slippery Sensation. Climb the RH crack for 7m and instead of traversing L into the LH crack, go straight up the wall. Near the top traverse toward the bush on the L. Descend by abseil from tree.</climb>
<climb id="20" name="Ring of Fire" number="8." extra="↓" grade="21" length="30m" stars="*" fa="M. Jackson, H. Jackson, Mar 1998.">A balancy 15m of independent climbing up the left face of the arête between Slipper and Just a Little Bit Longer. A bombproof #3 RP in a groove on the arête protects the crux on an otherwise run-out climb. Continue up Just a Little Bit Longer after the spike on the arête is reached. Descend from rap station as for Bert's Butter Menthol (28m).</climb>
<climb id="19" name="Just A Little Bit Longer" number="9." extra="↓" grade="19" length="30m" stars="**" fa="S. Parsons, K. Bischoff, Apr 1981.">Thought provoking face climbing on previously loose terrain. This route starts up the face 2m right of the arête. Climb the thin line for 6m, trend left then up to a spike on the arête (crux). Adequate small cam placements are now found where loose blocks have been removed and RP's are available the closer you get to the spike. Continue up the left side of the arête for 3m, then step back around the arête. Follow the corner stepping right at the top and up the face to the rap anchors out right as for Bert's Butter Menthol (28m).</climb>
<climb id="18" name="Spitters" number="10." extra="↓" grade="20" length="28m" stars="*" fa="D. Fife, S. Parsons, et al. Nov 1982.">A serious undertaking. The scary wall between Just a Little Bit Longer and Bert's Fear . Climb diagonally L from the bottom of Berts Fear on dubious face holds to a flake in the middle of the wall (marginal pro). Move up to a small roof, pull around this into a groove, and then hard moves lead to a corner crack. Continue up wall to belay as for Just a Little Bit Longer and Bert's Buttered Menthol. Abseil (28m).<br/>Alt start: From the start of JALBL head up steep wall to a large cam slot, then R to ascend very loose flakes which improve with altitude.</climb>
<climb id="34" stars="*" extra="9Þ ↓" number="11." name="Bert’s Butter Menthol" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Originally climbed as trad routes by Tim Smith (Buttered) and Hashish Jackson (left-hand exit, as Spittoon). ">Contentious. Originally done as a trad route then unknowingly bolted a week later. Climb diagonally leftwards from the bottom of Bert's Fear on thin holds (crux). From there climb the line left of the bolts. At the bulge it is possible to go right of the bolt and through the bulge on side-pulls (good fun but contrived, grade 23 with the bolts, grade 24 if you do it without the bolts). The direct (left) exit at the bulge was also climbed as a trad route (Spittoon) and can also be climbed on the bolts; this section is about grade 21. Descend from rap station (28m).</climb>
<climb id="17" name="Bert's Fear" number="12." extra="↓" grade="12" length="125m" stars="*" fa="U. Aurelli, D. Cox, J. Fairhall, Mar 1962">Body chimneys are not everybody's cup of tea, or are they? The distinct chimney 10m R of Just a Little Bit Longer, makes for an interesting day out. <br/>1. 25m. Climb the body-width chimney to belay on at a stance with threaded slings. <br/>2. 25m. Climb the even narrower chimney on the LH side of the buttress above to access the crest of the ridge. <br/>3. 30m. Follow the broken buttress to a tree and up the steeper wall above to the Brown Madonna terrace (with rap station at far RH end). <br/>4. 45m. Climb L and up the broken slabs and corner until one can move back right into a corner-chimney line. Follow this (past two U bolts) over enormous jammed flakes to two more U bolts on a leaning boulder 15m higher up. Descent: rap station at top (GPS MTW170) 15m to U bolts, 35m to Brown Madonna terrace; 50m to ground.</climb>
<climb id="36" stars="*" extra="↓" number="13." name="On Bended Knees" length="45m" grade="16" fa="P. Robinson, T. McKenny, Feb 2012.">Takes a line up the wall to the left of the final pitch of Bert's Fear.<br/>1. 16 Climb left and up the broken slabs and corner, as for Bert’s Fear, to a hand crack splitting the steepening wall. Jam the hand crack, then traverse left, climb the finger crack just right of the nose to negotiate some piled blocks to reach a large ledge. Traverse up and right for 3m across the chimney to the two U bolts on Bert's Fear, beckoning an abseil or, for the true directissima, climb on through the bush and over more blocks for 10m to the top of the column. Reverse back down to the bolts to abseil.</climb>
<climb id="15" name="Precarious" number="14." extra="↓" grade="20" length="40m" stars="***" fa="A. Keller, M. Tillema, 1969. FFA: I. Baker, D. Bowman, Feb 1979.">Persistence always pays off and this route is no exception. Start 7m R of Bert's Fear at a shallow corner. <br/>1. 30m. Crux. Climb the corner past an awkward move to a ledge. Step R, organise your "pro" and climb up negotiating small slab to the next ledge. <br/>Abseil off here.<br/>2. 10m. Or climb back L and up the short corner to an abseil point further up.</climb>
<climb id="28" name="Alex's Thing" number="15." extra="Þ ↓" grade="22" length="50m" stars="*" fa="Credited to A. Wilson, Mar 2004.">An unintentional ethical faux pas. The route provides an alternative 2nd pitch to the old classic. Originally a project of the credited first ascentionist, until his red tag went astray. It received two ascents by the unsuspecting N. Hancock and A. Williams. Climb either the first pitch of Precarious (20), or the first 10m of Chop Sticks (18) to the belay to start. Start on the LH face of the arête for a few moves then trend L following a line of fixed hangers to the "Fiddlesticks" ledge. Ether abseil off the DBB at the top of the pillar at the RH end of the ledge, as for Chopsticks, or continue up Fiddlesticks to Brown Madonna rap station.</climb>
<climb id="14" name="Chop Sticks The Sequel" number="16." extra="Þ ↓" grade="25" length="35m" stars="**" fa="A. Williams, D. Gray, May 2004. First 8m were climbed by H. & M. Jackson, Jan 2000 (as Chop Sticks 18). ">Start at the base of Fiddlesticks and climb the L arête. Straightforward climbing past a couple of small to mid-size cams and a bolt leads to the Precarious ledge, followed by excellent arête climbing on good rock (one of the bolts is around on the RH face but stay on the arête). Take a large wire or 0.5 Camalot for higher up. DBB on final pillar.</climb>
<climb id="13" name="Stick To It " number="17." extra="↓" grade="21 " length="30m" stars="" fa="D. Gray, May 2004.">Climb the first pitch of Fiddlesticks to about half height, just below small roof on the L wall. Traverse L, pull through roof, then follow thin cracks above.</climb>
<image id="31" width="1000" height="1715" src="flange upper 2000.jpg" legend="true" legendTitle="Flange Buttress" legendx="13" legendy="11">
<drawing>
<path id="26060" points="448,1495, 452,1397, 453,1254, 461,1143, 461,912, 468,796, 458,755, 433,738,belay 473,715, 483,609, 495,474, 505,323, 534,181, 541,157,belay" d="M448,1495C449.6,1455.8 451.18621994441605,1436.2241986791462 452,1397C452.81378005558395,1357.7758013208538 451.423680196438,1298.487247789416 453,1254C454.576319803562,1209.512752210584 459.9589943364858,1187.5029921152334 461,1143C462.0410056635142,1098.4970078847666 460.0624649746148,958.474950544096 461,912C461.9375350253852,865.525049455904 468.3225033881934,812.8776773154544 468,796C467.6774966118066,779.1223226845456 464.2480155925753,765.3538544105534 458,755C451.7519844074247,744.6461455894466 428.75387364282506,749.3230036191333 433,738C437.24612635717494,726.6769963808667 466.3298513177054,732.20898360032 473,715C479.6701486822946,697.79101639968 479.1283729369389,651.4119146453514 483,609C486.8716270630611,566.5880853546486 490.8420593332474,528.0532286677842 495,474C499.1579406667526,419.9467713322158 497.35099801836236,380.4655789902521 505,323C512.6490019816376,265.5344210097479 531.8805921478632,190.77282509596387 534,181C536.1194078521368,171.22717490403613 541.3446227583978,166.99405999353587 541,157" linkedTo="12"/>
<path id="68391" points="581,1342, 585,1140, 585,986, 591,861,belay 602,680, 615,518, 616,361, 574,325, 552,250, 541,158," d="M581,1342C582.6,1261.2 584.3079088542673,1201.5961119702047 585,1140C585.6920911457327,1078.4038880297953 583.9237420315707,1036.0459955319643 585,986C586.0762579684293,935.9540044680357 588.2233057839886,910.9804958882039 591,861C593.7766942160114,811.0195041117961 597.4624080638071,744.8497514214249 602,680C606.5375919361929,615.1502485785751 612.2464817156552,580.7408809075691 615,518C617.7535182843448,455.2591190924308 618.7007625094733,382.9614635638753 616,361C613.2992374905267,339.0385364361247 585.0523283680903,344.1688820134067 574,325C562.9476716319097,305.8311179865933 558.0607279445305,280.67095656777576 552,250C545.9392720554695,219.32904343222424 541.3446227583978,167.99405999353587 541,158" linkedTo="7"/>
<path id="90010" points="643,1347, 640,1118, 643,930, 651,662, 651,443, 656,267, 656,191,lower" d="M643,1347C641.8,1255.4 640,1193.2095738586518 640,1118C640,1042.7904261413482 641.1862616032781,1005.1877008095623 643,930C644.8137383967219,854.8122991904377 649.5611797458455,749.5881829716557 651,662C652.4388202541545,574.4118170283443 650.1085726374456,513.4227616417966 651,443C651.8914273625544,372.57723835820343 655.3969440894609,297.39401789117005 656,267C656.6030559105391,236.60598210882998 656,221.4 656,191" linkedTo="6"/>
<path id="21418" points="" d=""/>
<rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="19521" width="31" height="22" x="771" y="10" text="50m"/>
<path id="91387" points="702,1236, 698,1040, 703,866, 716,744, 713,581, 724,439, 720,242, 727,73,lower" d="M702,1236C700.4,1157.6 697.8118149313542,1109.628475398934 698,1040C698.1881850686458,970.3715246010661 700.021135172473,914.985777163778 703,866C705.978864827527,817.014222836222 714.2790847379747,793.0460849677212 716,744C717.7209152620253,694.9539150322788 711.5062142854325,637.9505803678852 713,581C714.4937857145675,524.0494196321148 722.8238755683237,495.958026048321 724,439C725.1761244316763,382.041973951679 719.4454451591154,309.6556905879206 720,242C720.5545548408846,174.34430941207938 724.2,140.6 727,73" linkedTo="5"/>
<path id="92558" points="745,1199, 753,969, 757,848, 758,729, 764,574, 763,392, 766,273, 766,154, 758,22,lower" d="M745,1199C748.1999999999999,1107 751.3453619518419,1017.3981629086228 753,969C754.6546380481581,920.6018370913772 756.008513462953,895.5913537782532 757,848C757.991486537047,800.4086462217468 756.7842953331757,776.5861541014092 758,729C759.2157046668243,681.4138458985908 763.079531065343,636.0396061958837 764,574C764.920468934657,511.9603938041163 762.6836274246659,439.61407258777155 763,392C763.3163725753341,344.38592741222845 765.4000476604459,320.59621893796043 766,273C766.5999523395541,225.40378106203957 767.5163614664857,201.57584101098956 766,154C764.4836385335143,106.42415898901044 761.2,74.80000000000001 758,22" linkedTo="3"/>
<rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="70502" width="92" height="22" x="895" y="1038" text="Tower of Power" arrowDirection="north"/>
<path id="76862" points="305,1691, 311,1535, 316,1423, 341,1420, 351,1345, 348,1310,belay 317,1290, 320,1080, 331,896,belay" d="M305,1691C307.4,1628.6 309.16091106626345,1579.806894021945 311,1535C312.83908893373655,1490.193105978055 313.4576716128087,1432.7455921509 316,1423C318.5423283871913,1413.2544078491 336.8767118711102,1429.1890421158114 341,1420C345.1232881288898,1410.8109578841886 350.1076292118698,1359.0229695277603 351,1345C351.8923707881302,1330.9770304722397 349.1852912564399,1324.0012529666958 348,1310C346.8147087435601,1295.9987470333042 318.78330099310506,1304.6485438719346 317,1290C315.21669900689494,1275.3514561280654 317.38175474908536,1153.684902061454 320,1080C322.61824525091464,1006.315097938546 326.59999999999997,969.6 331,896" linkedTo="15"/>
<path id="52524" points="423,1494, 385,1379, 384,1308, 399,1137, 398,1039, 393,916, 419,833, 429,764,lower" d="M423,1494C407.8,1448 390.82867961936137,1406.7983181846464 385,1379C379.17132038063863,1351.2016818153536 382.3596045571309,1336.355406941023 384,1308C385.6403954428691,1279.644593058977 396.9625026491776,1176.149056240801 399,1137C401.0374973508224,1097.850943759199 399.0639167723367,1078.1876011144027 398,1039C396.9360832276633,999.8123988855972 389.47165083240094,950.6114251678763 393,916C396.52834916759906,881.3885748321237 413.19475570360686,852.2763881123824 419,833C424.80524429639314,813.7236118876176 425.2036245061932,791.5736746392283 429,764" linkedTo="14"/>
<path id="41311" points="350,1310, 368,1176, 373,1071,label 375,945, 386,871, 419,833, 428,764," d="M350,1310C348.8147087435601,1295.9987470333042 363.97218689557684,1217.8542318242235 368,1176C372.02781310442316,1134.1457681757765 371.72641515845083,1113.0282997711229 373,1071C374.27358484154917,1028.9717002288771 373.0589555225929,974.8622227293403 375,945C376.9410444774071,915.1377772706597 378.63884467391114,889.7374862845899 386,871C393.36115532608886,852.2625137154101 413.19475570360686,852.2763881123824 419,833C424.80524429639314,813.7236118876176 424.2036245061932,791.5736746392283 428,764" linkedTo="28"/>
<path id="72786" points="471,1496, 474,1373, 475,1267, 483,1186, 496,926,lower 497,809, 503,708, 509,608, 519,494, 529,381,lower" d="M471,1496C472.2,1446.8 473.2594686511612,1415.3954197210192 474,1373C474.7405313488388,1330.6045802789808 473.43486634225087,1299.5199993332315 475,1267C476.56513365774913,1234.4800006667685 480.99877524178567,1218.4960782167188 483,1186C485.00122475821433,1153.5039217832812 493.61834144701345,947.2322326319439 496,926C498.38165855298655,904.7677673680561 495.7011347035303,849.4503763757722 497,809C498.2988652964697,768.5496236242278 500.6118977855922,748.0007120913308 503,708C505.3881022144078,667.9992879086692 506.0123064307531,647.9604014886772 509,608C511.9876935692469,568.0395985113228 515.017485114805,539.2015439469627 519,494C522.982514885195,448.7984560530373 530.0867836933271,406.91561114857063 529,381" linkedTo="10"/>
<path id="62497" points="" d=""/>
<path id="56789" points="" d=""/>
<path id="96423" points="496,926, 529,884, 535,741,label 529,632, 530,517, 529,381," d="M496,926C498.38165855298655,904.7677673680561 524.5928101550113,904.9059005467411 529,884C533.4071898449887,863.0940994532589 535,784.6660050840468 535,741C535,697.3339949159532 529.9744448869957,675.6551309374076 529,632C528.0255551130043,588.3448690625924 530,563.0017390975602 530,517C530,470.99826090243977 530.0867836933271,406.91561114857063 529,381" linkedTo="27"/>
<path id="91006" points="616,360, 619,244,label 627,98," d="M616,360C613.2992374905267,338.0385364361247 617.052972293248,290.3746599244581 619,244C620.947027706752,197.62534007554189 623.8,156.4 627,98" labelText="2b"/>
<path id="29462" points="" d=""/>
<path id="69211" points="504,1516, 508,1451, 522,1415, 536,1177, 549,942, 562,712, 555,584, 551,442, 529,381," d="M504,1516C505.6,1490 505.2891477004411,1466.210893458636 508,1451C510.7108522995589,1435.789106541364 520.4292899770256,1430.3705195105347 522,1415C523.5707100229744,1399.6294804894653 530.6347795115154,1270.9907144834528 536,1177C541.3652204884846,1083.0092855165472 543.8557387712555,1034.0031335140843 549,942C554.1442612287445,849.9968664859157 561.140737899559,763.2693053263134 562,712C562.859262100441,660.7306946736866 557.0873112604881,635.2340036665283 555,584C552.9126887395119,532.7659963334717 554.2952402178885,467.72822170120605 551,442C547.7047597821115,416.27177829879395 530.0867836933271,406.91561114857063 529,381" linkedTo="8"/>
<path id="16754" points="679,829,lower" d="M679,829"/>
<rect id="3094" x="739" y="62" width="31" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="30m"/>
<rect id="82198" x="663" y="794" width="31" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="25m"/>
<rect id="77291" x="541" y="370" width="31" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="25m"/>
<rect id="33967" x="669" y="178" width="31" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="50m"/>
<rect id="33107" x="507" y="915" width="31" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="25m"/>
<rect id="35593" x="385" y="755" width="31" height="22" style="black_text_on_solid_white" text="30m"/>
</drawing>
<legend>
<climb>15</climb>
<climb>28</climb>
<climb>14</climb>
<climb>12</climb>
<climb>10</climb>
<climb>27</climb>
<climb>8</climb>
<climb>7</climb>
<climb>6</climb>
<climb>5</climb>
<climb>4</climb>
<climb>3</climb>
</legend>
</image>
<climb id="12" name="Fiddlesticks" number="18." extra="↓" grade="14" length="55m" stars="***" fa="T. Terry, G. Wyatt, 1967.">A classic, and being one of the relatively few quality easier climbs on the Pipes, it sees a lot of traffic. Good pro and a sunny aspect add to the attraction. Start 16m uphill and north of Bert's Fear, next to Neon God. Scramble up to the base of the corner containing twin cracks. <br/>1. 30m. Straight up the corner, belaying in the notch on the L. There is a rap station on top of the pillar at the RH end of the ledge, as for Chopsticks. <br/>2. 25m. Either climb the flakes on the wall and traverse R into the main crack line, or step directly into the line from near the belay. Follow the line until you either step around the arête to climb the LH wall or continue up the vee-groove to a large ledge. Very classy climbing. Rap off as for Brown Madonna. Alternatively finish up On Bended Knees (45m) and descend as for Bert's Fear.</climb>
<climb id="10" name="Neon God" number="19." extra="18Þ" grade="25" length="50m" stars="***" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1997.">Simply irresistible! Join the mob. (Best done as 1 pitch)<br/>1. 25m 22. The popular 1st pitch follows the straight line of U-bolts on the wall to the R of Fiddlesticks. 10Þ + 2Þ Belay<br/>2. 25m 25. The second pitch is better, but is climbed less. Continue up the line past a thin and technical crux at about one-third height. Rap anchors. 7Þ + 2Þ Belay</climb>
<climb id="33" name="The Kundalini Flow" number="20." extra="" grade="26" length="50m" stars="**" fa="Adam Donoghue, Feb, 2013">Most of Neon God has now been climbed on trad gear, The Kundalini Flow. It may be a profound mystical experience for some but it will certainly be a test of ability and mental strength to complete the line on marginal gear while studiously ignoring the presence of 20 seductive and beckoning bolts. <br/>Climb up the initial crack of Big Sticks and Beatings for 5m then join 'the vague trad weakness up the Neon God wall, looking for gear.' The last 6 pieces below the crux are # 2 and 3 RP's......</climb>
<climb id="27" name="The Holy Road" number="21." extra="Þ ↓" grade="23" length="25m" stars="**" fa="R. Parkyn, Jan 1997.">A less demanding RH alternative to the second pitch of Neon God. The crux is passing the second U-bolt.</climb>
<climb id="9" name="Big Sticks and Beatings" number="22." extra="↓" grade="21" length="70m" stars="**" fa="N. Deka, S. Bunton, 1989.">A sustained excursion up the wall right of Neon God. <br/>1. 35m. Climb the thin crack, moving right at 10m to pass the thinnest section. Continue up the shallow corner, then traverse right to Digitalis and belay on ledge. 2. 35m. Finish up Digitalis to the Brown Madonna rap station.</climb>
<climb id="8" name="The Cuts" number="23." extra="2Þ" grade="21" length="48m" stars="**" fa="Originally called Blue Sky, the face and arête were climbed by D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski in 1996; the corner:was later added by H. & M. Jackson in Mar 1998 and the direct start and finish by H. Jackson, B. Maddison in Dec 2014.">A brilliant and intimidating line on the arête and face between Big Sticks and Beatings and Digitalis. It earns stars for the climbing and the position, not for the loose rock down low. Ascend the pedestal 3m right of Big Sticks and Beatings, climb up to small roof and reach up and around right to a jug. Continue up the steep and well protected flakes right of the arête, until angle eases and a shallow corner is reached (18m). Ascend the shallow corner right of arête with increasing difficulty to a ledge at 35m. Step back onto the arête and climb the face past 2 bolts (crux) to the Neon God anchors.</climb>
<climb id="7" name="Digitalis" number="24." extra="↓" grade="18" length="62m" stars="**" fa=" J. Moore, R. Williams. FFA: D. Bowman, M. Steane, Dec 1977. Direct Finish: P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson, Dec. 2011.">Fine crack climbing up a distinctive line. The original finish is recommended. Start at the first crack system around the arête L of Brown Madonna. Take cams up to fist size.<br/>1. 26m. Climb the crack through a small overlap and continue past a large detached flake to belay on a ledge at base of a corner. <br/>2a. 36m. Original finish. Bridge and jam the corner for 26m. When a jug behind a small flake on the right wall is reached, traverse boldly out left across the wall to the arête. Climb up just left of the arête for 3m before traversing horizontally L to the base of a shallow recess. Up the recess, negotiating an awkward final move onto the belay ledge. Alternatively continue a further 2m up the crack (above the original route traverse), reach diagonally up left, step left around the arête to rejoin the original finish.<br/>2b. 36m. Direct Finish. Instead of traversing left, continue up the crack to the top. Traverse 10m right to reach the Brown Madonna rap station.</climb>
<climb id="6" name="After Midnight" number="25." extra="Þ ↓" grade="24" length="50m" stars="***" fa="S. Edwards, Jan 1995.">A modern classic that is consistent quality all the way. Demonstrates what can be done with school holidays and a nickel-cadmium power-pack. The arête between Brown Madonna and Digitalis. Fifteen quick draws required en-route plus something to clip into the abseil anchors.</climb>
<climb id="4" name="Pleasant Screams" number="26." extra="Þ ↓" grade="26" length="55m" stars="***" fa="S. Edwards, Dec 1996.">Tasmania's 'To Bolt or Not To Be'. The face L of Brown Madonna. <br/>1. 20m 25. Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay. Worth working in its own right. <br/>2. 35m 26. Continue up the amazing face above past another 12 U's, at 2/3 height move R into Brown Madonna before returning to the line and up to the anchors. It may be worth wearing a helmet for the flakes on the first pitch.</climb>
<climb id="5" name="Pleasant Screams Direct " number="27." extra="Þ ↓" grade="29 " length="50m " stars="***" fa="S. Parsons, Mar 2007.">This variant is a single mega pitch that follows the line (and bolts) to the top. Start on the face and climb to a 'rest' about 2 bolts below the hanging belay. Once 'recovered' follow the line of bolts to the top, staying on the face.<br/>Note: This pitch has also been climbed on mostly natural gear by Adam Donoghue clipping only the 2nd and 4th bolt on the 1st pitch.</climb>
<climb id="3" name="Brown Madonna" number="28." extra="↓" grade="19" length="49m" stars="***" fa="K. Carrigan, G. Child, Feb 1978.">"Brown Lady will you marry me?" quoth the Jake. An elegant route with all the qualities of consistency, length of pitch and fantastic pro. Above the daunting chimney is a sustained crack and corner system of gob-smacking brilliance. Climb the chimney to where it narrows before traversing out and up. Continue up the imposing crack line and blind corner to the large ledge and rap anchors.</climb>
</guide>
|
Overview
Content Tools