Page History

<guide version="3">
  <header access="" acknowledgement="" history="" intro="" name="Lassies Wall and Harlequin" rock="Perfect white granite, 10-25m" sun="Morning sun" walk="5 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Lassie's Wall</text>
  <text class="description" id="3">A justifiably popular crag providing pleasant leading and top-roping on good rock. By and large these are Lassman's original descriptions, but other popular routes have been included. Every part of this wall has been climbed on, so don't send new descriptions, even if your damn sure you've created a new overnight sensation.</text>
  <text class="text" id="4">There are two north leading descent ramps below and slightly to the south of the main Whitewater Wall camp site. To get to Lassies Wall follow the old road along the cliff top southish until you see a no vehicles past this point sign. You should pick up a good track, through the she-oaks to the steps down to the cliff. On the left is Ocean Boulevard, on the right, below the ramp at the bottom of the steps is Lassie's Wall - descend the ramp until it is possible to gain the ledge system below the wall.</text>
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      <climb>6</climb>
      <climb>7</climb>
      <climb>8</climb>
      <climb>9</climb>
      <climb>80</climb>
      <climb>11</climb>
      <climb>12</climb>
      <climb>13</climb>
      <climb>14</climb>
      <climb>15</climb>
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  <climb name="Superlative Conspiracy" id="73" stars="*" grade="21" length="35m" fa="Simon Young, Jed Parkes 10-03-2012" number="1." extra="">Located L of lassie's Wall (L of Step Aside wall) is another wall with a steep buttress split by a steep hand crack. 1. 35m 21. Step across the void, up and onto ledge. Follow steep hand crack (good gear) up and R then easily up slab (no gear) to grassy ledge. 2. 10m 15. Follow R line up past fist crack to summit.</climb>
  <climb name="Step Aside" id="6" stars="" grade="18" length="25m" fa="Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 1982." number="2." extra="">On the LH end of Lassie's Wall, around the corner from the main face, a dyke crack system gives good climbing. You can escape hard moves at the top by climbing into the gully.</climb>
  <climb name="Cordon Bleu" id="7" stars="**" grade="15" length="25m" fa="R.Lassman, N.Booth, Dec 1974." number="3.">This line starts through a small bulge and continues as a superb jam crack. Through bulge and jam to block belay.</climb>
  <climb name="Antagonist" id="8" stars="*" grade="15" length="25m" fa="R.Lassman, N.Booth, Jan 1975." number="4." extra="">Start 4m R of Cordon Bleu. Jam and bridge through small roof, then straight up to block belay.</climb>
  <climb name="Pandora" id="9" stars="" grade="14" length="27m" fa="R.Lassman, N.Booth, Dec 1974." number="5." extra="">Start 10m R of Antagonist. Climb the wall for 7m then climb the crack for 7m then chimney the remainder.</climb>
  <climb name="Crack Climb" id="80" stars="*" grade="12/17" length="25m" fa="Not known" number="6." extra="">Climb the crack line about 2m R of Pandora and just L of start of Rose Ramble, finishing either a)up the chimney (11), or b) up the thin crack line on wall to the R of chimney, exiting via the short off width at the top (17). A bit thin on protection and take a big cam for the top!</climb>
  <climb name="Rose Ramble" id="10" stars="*" grade="16" length="22m" fa="Not known" number="7." extra="">Start 4m R of Pandora, on the L fringe of the pink rock. Climb the R tending grove on the L fringe on the pink rock, continue directly when this runs out.</climb>
  <climb name="Artemus" id="11" stars="**" grade="13" length="25m" fa="R.Lassman, N.Booth, K.McConnell, Jan 1975." number="8." extra="">Start 7m R of Rose Ramble. Up orange coloured and slightly lichenous chimney then follow twin cracks to top.</climb>
  <climb name="Road to Ruin" id="12" stars="**" grade="16" length="25m" fa="Not known" number="9." extra="">Climb the yellow face 2m R of Artemus to the foot of a thin crack. Above climb the prominent corner in the upper part of the cliff.</climb>
  <climb name="Ballyhoo" id="13" stars="" grade="12" length="25m" fa="R.Lassman, N.Booth, K.McConnell, Jan 1975." number="10." extra="">A good line 10m R of Artemus. Straight forward wall climbing for 18m then finish just R of thin section at top.</climb>
  <climb name="Lassie Come Home" id="14" stars="" grade="16" length="12m" fa="Not known" number="11." extra="">Under a prominent undercling in overlap 4 m R of Ballyhoo. Up to the undercling then onto the wall above.</climb>
  <climb name="First Impressions" id="15" stars="" grade="18" length="12m" fa="Not known" number="12." extra="">Start 6m R of Lassie Come Home. Up the L facing corner with surprising difficulty.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="16">Ocean Boulevard</text>
  <text class="description" id="17">This is the convoluted area including the wall above the descent ramp to Lassie's Wall and extending around to the start of Deepwater Zawn. For the most part the routes are best approached by following the ramp down to Lassie's Wall.</text>
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      <climb>21</climb>
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  <climb name="Possible" id="19" stars="*" grade="17" length="20m" fa="C.Rathbone, M.Stewart, B.Burton, May 1980." number="13.">Follow the wide ramp leading down to Lassie's Wall. On the left on the first cliff of a reasonable size, is an overhang. Pull and chin up just right of this to gain the short wall above. Up wall to the jam crack, move right and up (the obvious direct finish went at 21 to Smith and McMahon, 1989).</climb>
  <climb id="82" stars="" extra="" number="14." name="Robs Ramble" length="25m" grade="15" fa="Rob Hardy and Mel June 2017">Start at the base of the giant staircase about 20m from Possible. Climbing the crack to the first "step" in the staircase and the head directly. Pass to the right-hand side of a hanging shield near the second "step". Go past twin parallel sloping cracks heading for a v-grove between two small roofs. Climb through the groove and up the nose of a hanging flake to finish. May share some or all of the holds of Robdec... I was trying to climb this line (robdec) but what i did was not really what Robdec is described as.</climb>
  <climb name="Robdec" id="20" stars="*" grade="14" length="25m" fa="Rob de Cesare, Doug Fife, Jun 1980." number="15.">Start 25m right of Possible. Up the middle of a buttress, through blocks near the top, to finish up corner, exposed, very good.</climb>
  <climb name="Drugless" id="21" stars="" grade="16" length="25m" fa="Doug Fife, Rob de Cesare, Jun 1980." number="16.">The overhanging corner to the right of Robdec (looks extreme). Climb the left hand face of the corner.</climb>
  <climb name="Ultima Thule" id="22" stars="" grade="17" length="150m" fa="Robert McMahon, Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling, 1981." number="17.">A traverse which starts near the bottom of the ramp which leads down above Square Zawn and finish as for Beowulf.</climb>
  <climb name="Dumper" id="23" stars="" grade="17" length="15m" fa="Robert McMahon, Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling, 1981." number="18.">Climb the left hand of two likely lines at the base of the ramp to a ledge at 10m. Continue up face above.</climb>
  <climb name="Great Southern Ocean" id="24" stars="*" grade="18" length="15m" fa="Nick Deka, Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, 1981." number="19.">The climb takes a thin blind crack up the slab a couple of metres to the right of Dumper and continues up a shallow corner above.</climb>
  <climb name="Gubernaculum" id="25" stars="***" grade="26" length="10m" fa="John Fisher, Apr 1994." number="20." extra="Þ">The very thin, bolted face 3m left of Ballet.</climb>
  <climb name="Ballet" id="26" stars="**" grade="22" length="10m" fa="D.Fife, L.Minami, Apr 1983." number="21.">A fine crack face line on the blank looking wall above the ramp leading down to Lassie's Wall. Traverse right from the ramp near sea level or abseil from above. Start off sloping ledge a few meteres right of Gubernaculum. Despite appearing thin the gear is, for the most part, good.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="27">The next four climbs are probably best accessed at low tide or by abseil.</text>
  <climb name="Gone With the Wind" id="28" stars="" grade="18" length="25m" fa="Nick Deka, F.Moon, 1981." number="22." extra="">Just right of the 'arête' several metres right of Ballet at the left hand edge of the slab wall before Square Zawn. Climb just right of the arête to the wall and straight up.</climb>
  <climb name="Daydreamer" id="29" stars="***" grade="8" length="30m" fa="B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Feb 1975." number="23." extra="">Up obvious crack on the slab and the wall above, wherever you please.</climb>
  <climb name="Seashell Corner" id="30" stars="" grade="15" length="15m" fa="Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, 1981." number="24.">Climb the corner at the right hand side of the slab.</climb>
  <climb name="Fishfinger" id="31" stars="" grade="15" length="15m" fa="Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1981." number="25.">In part a thin crack to the right of the slab.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="32">Deepwater Zawn</text>
  <text class="text" id="33">Otherwise known as Square Zawn. The area below the Harlequin Buttress descent ramp. All routes reached by abseil. The routes can be seen from various places along the descent ramp to Harlequin. It's best to work out your rap point from here.&lt;br/&gt;WARNING. There have now been at least two massive rock falls in this area and a number of climbs have either lost their top pitches or have hanging boulders threatening would-be climbers below. Rocks at the top of Sweet Revenge, to the L of the Harlequin chains, have fallen and the area there is still clearly unstable. The possibility of hidden route damage and/or further catastrophic rock fall is very real.&lt;br/&gt;In particular, the following climbs below the ramp should be treated with extreme caution due to possibly unstable rock:&lt;br/&gt;Splash in the Pan&lt;br/&gt;Dreaming of Creaming, Screaming White Horses&lt;br/&gt;Pincer Martin&lt;br/&gt;Spackbinder&lt;br/&gt;Fruit Cake</text>
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      <climb>36</climb>
      <climb>37</climb>
      <climb>38</climb>
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  <climb name="Sink or Swim" id="35" stars="" grade="21" length="12m" fa="Simon Parsons, 1982." number="26.">Located on the extreme left of the southern wall this climb is a straight crack that starts at sealevel (there is no ledge). Climb the crack until it peters out at two-thirds height and step left onto the arete.</climb>
  <climb name="Deep Water" id="36" stars="*" grade="17" length="25m" fa="B.Maddison, R.McMahon, 1979." number="27." extra="">In the middle of the southern wall is a shallow chimney corner that leans to the right. Up this till it ends at 8m. Continue up the good cracks above and then slightly right and up over a bulge to belay on top of the tower just left of the steep gully.&lt;br/&gt;To escape climb easily over the gully and up wall above.</climb>
  <climb name="Aspro Pink" id="37" stars="*" grade="16" length="25m" fa="B.Cameron, Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, 1982." number="28." extra="">Takes the line between Deep Water and the gully on the right. Once on top of the tower don't belay, continue to top via stepping easily over the steep gully and up wall above.</climb>
  <climb name="Beowulf" id="38" stars="**" grade="17" length="35m" fa="Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979." number="29." extra="">On the right hand side of the block at the base of the southern wall. The climb goes off just right of the chimney corners through a pink wall and curves off to the right above the overhangs (just above big rock scare) and onto the pocketed triangular wall above the cave. Finish by going straight up on the left and finish up a short corner.</climb>
  <climb name="Creeping Death Direct" id="75" stars="**" grade="20" length="35m" fa="Simon Bischoff and Dean Rollins, 2012." number="30." extra="">Rap in as for Beowulf, swing right around the corner and belay on small triangular shaped ledge. Great climbing up crack system to meet creeping death under the roof. Traverse left under the roof on lay backs. Get a knee bar in the roof and look down at your belayer dodging the waves. Finnish directly up the face. &lt;br/&gt;Note: A big chunk of rock fell of just above the roof on this route. Need to confirm if this route still goes / new grade ?&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="Call of Ktulu" id="79" stars="**" grade="21" length="35m" fa="Simon Bischoff and Dean Rollins, May 2013" number="31." extra="">Shares belay and first half of the route with Creeping Death Direct. After traversing L on laybacks, traverse back R and climb through second rooflette, finish up on easier terrain. Steeper than it looks! Double ropes are ideal.</climb>
  <climb name="Creeping Death" id="39" stars="***" grade="22" length="25m" fa="Marc Tierney, Andrew Bissett, Chris Welsch, 1998." number="32." extra="">Takes a line out through the cave under Beowolf. Abseil down to the ledge leading into the left of the cave, follow the ledge into the cave and set up a belay in the back left hand corner. Step bravely across the chasm and into the horizontal line. A weird down and up traverse follows this line out of the cave. Continue following the line upwards past strenuos lay backs to gain the jugs at the roof. Climb onto the small ledge and continue directly to the top, crossing Beowolf. The climbing and gear are excellent, and the exposure on a dark, windy day exhilerating.</climb>
  <climb name="Grendel and Biscuit face " id="74" stars="*" grade="14" length="25m" fa="S. Bischoff, T. O&apos;Sullivan, April 2012 " number="33." extra="">Fun exposed climbing with good gear. Climbs the face opposite Beowulf, and shares the same exit. Abseil From Beowulf exit down to a small ledge just above the water. Climb up to main ledge staying L of the arête . Climb the arête until it steepens then climb L onto the face with jugs. Finnish up Beowulf.</climb>
  <climb name="Cats Cradle" id="40" stars="" grade="13" length="20m" fa="D.Hain, B.Kennedy, Jan 1975." number="34." extra="">Abseil 20m into small zawn at bottom of access ramp to the right of enourmous boulder. Traverse left around the back of the zawn until jug wall is reached. Climb up to ramp.</climb>
  <climb name="Splash in the Pan" id="72" grade="21" length="20m" fa="David Gray, Carol Hurst, February 1998." number="35.">Abseil just left of the arête, 5m L of Dream of Creaming, Screaming White Horses. Through roof then climb the cracked system on the right arête of the back wall of the Zawn.</climb>
  <climb name="Dreaming of Creaming, Screaming White Horses" id="41" stars="**" grade="22" length="15m" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Mick Ling, 1983." number="36.">Takes the dark overhanging corner which separates the inland and northern walls of Deepwater Zawn. Bridge with difficulty up the corner to a step left and then straight up.</climb>
  <climb name="Pincer Martin" id="42" stars="" grade="18" length="10m" fa="Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979." number="37.">The left leaning diagonal crack on the northern wall of the zawn. Up the crack to an awkward step to finish.</climb>
  <climb name="Spackbinder" id="43" stars="" grade="20" length="12m" fa="Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979." number="38.">Strenuous. The straight, thin crack just right of Pincer Martin which finishes to the left of the big block.</climb>
  <climb name="Fruit Cat" id="44" stars="" grade="12" length="12m" fa="Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980." number="39.">The climb takes the line directly underneath the big jumping block. Direct Finish: When the bottom of the block is reached, tunnel and grovel through the horizontal off-width to emerge on the other side.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="46">Harlequin Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="47">The northern of the two descent ramps. Harlequin Buttress is reached by following the old road track south along the top of the cliff for approximately 150m past where the road first meets the cliff top above Whitewater Wall. A rough track and some steps can then be followed down and north down along a ramp to the bottom of the buttress. Harlequin Buttress provides some of the steepest and best climbing on the coastal cliffs. The climbs are described from left to right (the order in which they are encountered). Descent from many of the climbs has been made very easy by the installation of a rap station at the top of Harlequin and another at the top of the first pitch of Beaman's Route. A single 50m rope can be used to rap to the block at the base of Beaman's Route, two ropes are needed to rap down Heat of the Night or to the base of Harlequin. &lt;br/&gt;WARNING. There have been massive rock falls in this area and a number of climbs have either lost their top pitches or have hanging boulders threatening would-be climbers below. The rocks at the top of Sweet Revenge, to the L of the Harlequin chains, have gone and the area there is still clearly unstable. The area from Crayfish Crack to Beaman's Route Direct should be treated with extreme caution as the possibility of hidden route damage and/or further catastrophic rock fall is very real.&lt;br/&gt;In particular note that the top pitch has gone from Sweet Revenge, Beaman's Route and BR Direct, and The Only Fruit is no more - you can clip all the bolts while standing at the bottom now.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</text>
  <text class="Discussion" id="48">There is a wall above the descent ramp to Harlequin Buttress with some short problems on it.</text>
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  <climb id="86" stars="" extra="" number="40." name="London Bridge" length="20m" grade="15" fa="Rob Hardy and Mel June 2017">Located on the ramp to Harlequin Buttress. Climb the corner with a surprisingly awkward move at half height. A large cam may inspire confidence. This leads to nice hand-jams and then an exciting exit to the right of a leaning (and, it turns out, completely detached) flake.</climb>
  <climb name="Lunge or Plunge" id="49" stars="" grade="22" length="10m" fa="D.Stephenson, N.Deka, 1989." number="41." extra="">At the left hand edge of the overhangs below a short corner. Surmount the roof on insecure holds before a dyno to a flake in the corner, straight up.</climb>
  <climb name="The Lone Gunman" id="50" stars="" grade="18" length="20m" fa="J.Anderson, J.Nermut, 1997." number="42." extra="">Start halfway through the overhangs on the ramp leading to Harlequin about 5m right of Lunge or Plunge. Continue up right to a nice crack in the middle of a 4m wide slab.</climb>
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      <climb>71</climb>
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  <climb name="Crayfish Crack" id="52" stars="" grade="9" length="40m" fa="G.Kowalik, G.Holloway, Feb 1976." number="43." extra="">At the bottom of the Harlequin ramp an easy broken wall meets a steeper wall with a roof at about 15m. An obvious corner line divides these. Climb 12m to the first roof then traverse easily to the bottom of the next corner. Continue up the crack to the next roof then traverse left to finish up steep nose.</climb>
  <climb name="Forever Young" id="71" stars="***" grade="28" length="25m" fa="Simon Young, Jan 2011" number="44." extra="Þ">Climb the slab to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts R to finish at Beamans anchors. Classic!</climb>
  <climb name="Sweet Revenge" id="53" stars="**" grade="22" length="45m" fa="Neale Smith, Ben Maddison, Jan 1982" number="45." extra="">Start as for Crayfish Crack. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Climb that for 12m to the first roof then traverse right, moving up to undercling then further right to jam up the flake and off right to lower-off.&lt;br/&gt;2. 15m. Rarely climbed. Up the chimney then traverse out under the roof. Much better than it looks according to Neale.</climb>
  <climb name="Beaman&apos;s Route" id="54" stars="*" grade="22" length="55m" fa="T.Beaman, B.Kennedy, Jan 1977." number="46." extra="">Start as for Crayfish Crack. 1. 30m. Climb that for 12m to the roof then traverse right, moving down and across. Steep finger and hand crack lead to belay. Again, escape via Harlequin or 2. 25m. Climb left under roof to beneath off-width then up this and corner to top.</climb>
  <climb id="81" stars="**" extra="" number="47." name="Beaman&apos;s Route New Direct" length="20m" grade="24" fa="H Jackson Feb 2017">Begin 3m left of old direct, below the original starting ledge. &lt;br/&gt;Climb left-facing corner for 5m. Move right to gain face, then ledge. Continue up to flake and orignal route. Currently best done with double ropes (right rope on original direct bolt) until a new bolt gets added.</climb>
  <climb name="Beaman&apos;s Route Direct" id="55" stars="*" grade="22(A0)" length="45m" fa="Phil Bigg" number="48." extra="">Begin on the tilted block directly below the finger hand flake of the original &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Recent rockfall has knocked off a crucial starting foothold so pull on first u-bolt. Climb up face above, aiming for the base of the flake, up the widening crack to lower-off. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Rarely climbed. As for original.</climb>
  <climb name="Breakout" id="56" stars="**" grade="22" length="35m" fa="Simon Parsons, Doug Fife, 1982." number="49." extra="">Now that 'Beaman's Route Direct' is no longer a free climb 'Breakout' is the best way to climb the ovious crack on this wall.&lt;br/&gt;This climb originally started up Harlequin, before traversing left after 10m to finish up Beaman's Route. The addition of a bolt now facilitates a direct start from the block left of Harlequin.&lt;br/&gt;Layback the Harlequin arete until it is possible to traverse left into 'Beaman's Route' up this aiming for the base of the flake, up the widening crack to lower-off.</climb>
  <climb name="Needs A Name" id="77" stars="" grade="??" length="28m" fa="" number="50." extra="">Start up Breakout and continue straight up to the Harlequin belay (staying left of Harlequin) past a few bolts, not a very fun lead. This used to be a top rope problem.</climb>
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      <climb>60</climb>
      <climb>61</climb>
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  <climb name="Harlequin" id="58" stars="***" grade="18" length="35m" fa="D.Hain, S.Anderson, B.Kennedy, Jan 1975." number="51." extra="">A grouse climb, sustained and varied. Start 30m right of Crayfish Crack at the RH end of the wall up a v-corner. Climb the crack (hands/thin-hands/hands), then straight up the overhanging wall on good holds. Continue up the thin crack then climb the slab to belay ledge. A DBB exists above the ledge.</climb>
  <climb name="Harlequin Variant" id="60" stars="*" grade="24" length="15m" fa="Kim Carrigan, Simon Parsons, 1982." number="52." extra="">Climb Harlequin for 4m, undercling out right, then climb thin wall above. Protection is adequate, but must be placed blindly on the traverse. RP's protect the climbing above.</climb>
  <climb name="Heat of the Night" id="61" stars="***" grade="24" length="15m" fa="R.Staszewski, Phil Bigg, Dec 1980." number="53." extra="">On the overhung buttress immediately right of Harlequin. A 4m long 45o crack followed by a highly technical layback groove. Well protected, even though a little fiddly above the lip.</climb>
  <climb id="87" stars="*" extra="" number="54." name="Tardigrade" length="15m" grade="25" fa="Simon Bischoff June 2017">Start up Heat of the Night but break right before the lip and do strenuousness moves to gain the right trending crack. Follow this to the ledge. Good fun!</climb>
  <climb name="Granite Planet" id="62" stars="**" grade="27" length="15m" fa="Bob Carr, 1989." number="55." extra="">The line through the roof right of Heat of the Night with a u-bolt. A hard start gives way to an entertaining middle and a hard finish.</climb>
  <climb name="Hot Spot" id="63" stars="" grade="23" length="20m" fa="R.Staszewski, P.Bigg, Dec 1980." number="56." extra="">Start on a boulder in the cave and traverse 7m through a roof to reach the lip at a climbable point. Strenuous moves through the lip lead back right to a difficult shallow bridging groove.</climb>
  <climb name="Sing of the Wingers" id="64" stars="" grade="24" length="35m" fa="Nick Hancock, Oct 2000." number="57." extra="">Right of Granite Planet are two parallel cracks leading over the roof. Follow the left hand crack over the roof to a difficult move gaining the face above and RP protection. Continue up the arete left of the open corner of Hot Spot, to cracks above leading up left to the Harlequin belay.</climb>
  <climb name="King of the Swingers" id="65" stars="" grade="24" length="35m" fa="Nick Hancock, Dave Gray, Jun 2000." number="58." extra="">Take the right hand crack over the roof to a crux gaining the sloping ledge below the open groove of Hot Spot. Follow the right arete with sparse protection and cracks above trending leftwards to the Harlequin belay.</climb>
  <climb name="Ice Nine" id="66" stars="**" grade="16" length="35m" fa="B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 1975." number="59.">Starts at a large boulder below a big bottomless corner 5m right of Hot Spot. 1. 18m. Climb the corner and groove to a large ledge. 2. 17m. Move slightly left and climb crack. Move right at the shallow scoop at the top. 2) Alternative: Up the same crack until you can traverse left across slab to Harlequin ledge, and the abseil anchors.</climb>
  <climb name="Kettle Chips" id="67" stars="" grade="23" length="10m" fa="Kim Robinson, Al Williams, 1999." number="60." extra="">Start just left of Al's Jump at the bottomless short corner. Up this to eventually join Ice Nine.</climb>
  <climb name="Al&apos;s Jump" id="68" stars="" grade="21" length="35m" fa="Al Williams, 2000." number="61." extra="">Just right of the start to Ice Nine is a bit of gap with a jug at the other side. Jump for this, then mantle up. Follow your nose to the top of the crag.</climb>
  <climb name="Bokonon" id="69" stars="**" grade="15" length="41m" fa="B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Jan 1975." number="62." extra="">Start either at the RH end of the cave R of Ice Nine or traverse in L more easily from WWW area.&lt;br/&gt;1. 18m Swing out R and awkwardly up to the base of the shallow groove. Step L and up to the large ledge.&lt;br/&gt;2. 13m. Climb the obvious open book corner.&lt;br/&gt;3. 10m Traverse L under the roof to the Harlequin rap station.</climb>
  <climb name="The Parting of the Ways" id="70" stars="" grade="16" length="60m" fa="Chris Baxter, M.Martin, 1983." number="63." extra="">Starts immediately left of the only point where the sea reaches the cliff. 1. 35m. Climb up steeply right to a ledge. Step up two thin, flaring cracks and climb the left one to easier ground. Follow the line up and right to a shallow corner. Up left to a good ledge. 2. 25m. Easily up blocks and cracks moving left to the top.</climb>
</guide>