Page History

<guide version="2">
  <header access="SeeThe theold mapaccess into the Gunnerscliff Quoinis section.closed Accessas toit thecrosses cragprivate island. fromThis theoriginal Eastapproach Derwentroute Highway.went Aboutup 5kmThirsty northGully from the Bowenintersection Bridgebetween theEast roadDerwent crossesHwy aand creekCassidys mouthRd. justCurrently priorMonkeys toBum Cassidycliff Rd.can Turnbe Raccessed ontovia CassidyMad roadMonkeys andcliff immediatelyusing park near the oldKandos ironDrive gateapproach. GoHave througha theread oldof ironthe gateMonkeys andBum followsection afor vague intermittent path upother options.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Drive to the creekend valleyof passing the first minor tributaryKandos Drive (notwhich shownis onoff thesarvoEast map)Derwent onHwy, theabout right3 atkm aboutup 400mriver from start,the thenBowen reachingBridge) anand oldpark ironat shedthe builtend. onFrom thehere valleywalk floor about 450m80 fromm start.north Atand thethen shedturn crossright theand creekfollow toa thegrassy southvehicle bankaccess androute followfor cairnsanother on50 them. southFrom bankhere arounda to4WD thetrack next,goes muchnorth. larger,Follow tributaryit (afterfor aabout total700 ofm aboutand 600m);then herebegin thea valleyrising opensdiagonal toup a large,paddock grassy basin which is towards a goodspur. placeWhen tothen scopecrest outof the spur cliffs.is Thereached, firstcontour cliffsaround visibleeastwards abovetowards the startcliff of(about this1 grassykm basinfrom are a minor subsidiary buttress (mostly grey rock), while boththe spur). Both Monkey&apos;s Bum Main Cliff (mostly orange rock) and Mad Monkeys become (visible 50m further) onare located where the grassy basin leads up into the rightward/south tributary. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;" acknowledgement="by Matt Perchard, originally published in Craglets." history="" intro="There are only a few routes on this crag but they are real honeys. It is definitely worth at least one visit - the main buttress (composed of orange sandstone) overhangs on every side!  A degree of uncertainty exists as to the historical accuracy of the route names and first ascentionists that are quoted here. Several routes from the sixties by the likes of Terry Costigan and John Moore have been omitted due to lack of knowledge. I’m sure this won’t detract from your climbing pleasure - hopefully the best of the routes here have been adequately described." name="Monkey&apos;s Bum" rock="Short steep sandstone buttresses" sun="All day sun" walk="20 min" id="1" camping="" autonumber="false"/>
  <image id="14" width="400" height="667" src="20170601_130352_rotated.jpg"/>
  <text class="text" id="2">The following routes are on the main buttress - the only cliff of decent height in this area.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Gonard" number="" stars="" id="3" fa="FTRA Richard Marshall, Richard Cockerill, Phil Schwan Dec 1994.">Wall L of the Snatch.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="15m" name="The Snatch" id="4" fa="Doug Fife, Oct 1980." stars="*" number="">Climb the nose of the main buttress moving slightly left near the top. This is an excellent route to top rope but is not recommended as a lead.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Poha" number="" stars="**" id="5" fa="Peter Jackson, May 1980 (used one piton on upper section, now gone).">Start on the right side of the nose of the buttress and climb to the thread on the arête. The climbing steepens from here. Near the top move to the face on the right then finish straight up. Gear exists for leading this route but it looks a tad bold to me.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="24" length="15m" name="Unknown" id="6" fa=" Nathan Duhig TR" stars="*" number="">The steep wall 1-2m right of Poha with lovely rock at the top. A few variant starts are possible.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="7">About 20m right of the main buttress is a sub-buttress capped by a two metre roof.</text>
  <climb extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Gasher" id="8" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Jun 1982.">The two metre roof. A small wire can supposedly be placed just under the roof. Probably another bold route if leading but definitely good fun on a top rope.</climb>
  <image id="18" src="20170601_141120_rotated.jpg" height="667" width="400">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>19</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="19" stars="" extra="" number="1" name="lichen lover" length="10" grade="10" fa="Rob Hardy solo June 2017">An easy line up the lichenous face</climb>
  <text class="text" id="9">Another 100m right of the main buttress is another outcrop with some routes.</text>
  <image id="20" src="20170601_142231_rotated.jpg" height="667" width="400">
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    </drawing>
    <legend>
      <climb>21</climb>
    </legend>
  </image>
  <climb id="21" stars="" extra="" number="2" name="water slide" length="7" grade="4" fa="Rob Hardy solo June 2017">possibly the easiest line in Tassie...</climb>
  <image id="23" src="20170601_142227_rotated.jpg" height="667" width="400">
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    <legend>
      <climb>22</climb>
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  </image>
  <climb id="22" stars="" extra="" number="3" name="larger balls needed" length="8" grade="13" fa="Rob Hardy solo June 2017">climb the easy line up the center of the face to finish at the larger break at 2/3 height just below the large roof. Escape right and down. Direct finish through the roof looks possible (its harder than 13) and feels rather bold without a rope. Two reasonable nut placements seem to exist.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="21" length="8m" name="Overhang" id="10">Climb the crack ... yeah, right!</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="17" length="7m" name="The B Got Another One" number="" stars="" id="11" fa="Matt Perchard, Aug 1991.">Climb straight up until below the bulge on the left of the face. Clip the bolt, then ascend the arête.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="23" length="7m" name="Who Blunted Mr Squiggles Tool" stars="" id="12" fa="Matt Perchard, Aug 1991." number="">Start midway along the small face. Climb up to clip the bolt, then continue straight up the slab/face.</climb>
  <climb extra="" grade="18" length="7m" name="Miss Jane" number="" stars="" id="13" fa="Owen Prall, 1991.">The right-hand arête of the face. Climb easily up to the ledge at one third height. Clip the bolt then continue up the arête (crux).</climb>
</guide>