Versions Compared


  • This line was added.
  • This line was removed.
  • Formatting was changed.
Comment: Guide edited
<guide version="3">
  <header autonumber="true" camping="" walk="20 min" sun="Not much sun" rock="Dolerite walls and cracks up to 80m" name="Bulging Buttress" intro="Bulging Buttress spans the wide-ranging area between Avalanche Couloir and Teardrop Gully. The buttress is divided into LH and RH sections by a centrally located prow. At the LH end close to Avalanche Couloir is SSSSI Wall, a hanging wall of quality looking lines that rises to join the main buttress to its right. Right of here on the LHS of the prow is a steep, clean wall (Black Magic area) on which several fine sport and trad routes reside. The prow has a pronounced step 25m off the ground that traverses left underneath this clean wall. On the RHS of the prow the routes are initially shorter and finish on the step. Further right the routes become longer before the cliff eventually merges into the natural continuation of Teardrop Gully. The quality of the rock right of the prow is definitely poorer than that on the LHS. " history="" acknowledgement="" access="Bulging Buttress is accessed from the climbers&apos; carpark. Walk left along the Organ Pipes Track for approximately 400m arriving at the signposted Bulging Buttress/University Buttress track junction that heads right up a boulder field (GPS MTW070). Follow this climbers&apos; track to where it meets the base of the cliff just right of the prow. This is the Jelly Wall area.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Following the track left provides access to routes between SSSI and Malignant Mushroom. Access to SSSI Wall is by following the track left around the prow, then traversing across and up to enter Avalanche Couloir.  For access to routes in the Black Magic area follow the track left around the prow then up slightly to the base of the cliff.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;For routes right of the prow, the climbers&apos; track meets the cliff at the Jelly Roll area. To access routes in the Breaker Spur area follow the base of the cliff further right.  &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;To descend climbs on this buttress, there are rap anchors on Mildly Amused (35m), Heat Pump (50m), Warm Glow (50m), Black Magic (47m and 35m: or 60m to bottom of access gully), Dal Nulla (30m), Jelly Roll (35m),Smoke and Mirrors (32m), and Breaker Spur  area (50m and 37m)." id="1"/>
  <text class="heading3" id="17">SSSSI Wall</text>
  <image id="34" legend="true" legendTitle="SSSSI" legendx="9" legendy="11" src="ssssi nl.jpg" height="736" width="500">
      <path id="52015" points="145,670, 139,413, 151,264, 159,213, 143,202, 147,133,lower" d="M145,670C142.6,567.2 138.11645643518924,472.78644788552907 139,413C139.88354356481076,353.21355211447093 148.94530241197936,284.5469758802064 151,264C153.05469758802064,243.45302411979364 159.99390156833223,220.70273715457478 159,213C158.00609843166777,205.29726284542522 144.15210024013763,209.6806682675842 143,202C141.84789975986237,194.3193317324158 145.4,160.6 147,133" linkedTo="23"/>
      <path id="85241" points="236,535, 233,463,label 241,398, 291,340, 285,101,belay" d="M236,535C230.27229756635003,506.74980664081113 232.04457102574375,489.1787538946213 233,463C233.95542897425625,436.8212461053787 229.82719232117066,421.6940576637243 241,398C252.17280767882934,374.3059423362757 289.0488194598011,370.5684951297827 291,340C292.9511805401989,309.4315048702173 287.4,196.60000000000002 285,101" linkedTo="21"/>
      <path id="12280" points="242,682,label 235,536, 186,463, 189,332, 193,220, 197,43,lower" d="M242,682C239.2,623.6 240.72770243364997,564.2501933591889 235,536C229.27229756635003,507.74980664081113 193.7358475092968673584750929683,497.3068019977512 186,463C178.2641524907031426415249070317,428.6931980022488 187.70917770116048,376.8099740882855 189,332C190.29082229883952,287.1900259117145 191.759546112127,264.8113966994119 193,220C194.240453887873,175.1886033005881 195.4,113.80000000000001 197,43" linkedTo="22"/>
      <path id="58470" points="327,622, 308,465, 291,339," d="M327,622C319.4,559.2 314.41768154071633,515.4501076672979 308,465C301.58231845928367,414.54989233270214 289.0488194598011,369.5684951297827 291,339" linkedTo="20"/>
      <path id="26864" points="305,719,lower" d="M305,719"/>
  <text class="text" id="19">A clean hanging black wall located right of Avalanche Couloir that offers quality steep routes. To gain access, climb 50m up Avalanche Couloir and scramble back R to the base of the wall. Descent from these routes is by the Mildly Mused rap station (35m) which is located on the southern side of the summit blocks.</text>
  <climb name="SSSSI (Seriously Searching For Sanity but Suiciding Instead)" id="23" fa="K. Bischoff, G. Dixon, Feb 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, and D. Fife freed the lower half in 1982; N. Deka and D. Stephenson freed the original aid line in Feb 1989." grade="22" length="30m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="1.">A quality free route courtesy of an old aid line. At the LH end of the wall is a clean steep corner capped by a roof at 20m. &lt;br/&gt;Climb the thin corner crack to the roof. Step L and up to DBB on a small ledge. Any old pegs on the line should be ignored and preferably removed, as they are well past their use-by date.</climb>
  <climb name="Mildly Amused" id="22" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1999." grade="25" length="35m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="2.">This route tends to remain dry even when the others on this wall are seeping. Start as for Beaten and Abused. At the horizontal break at 6m where Beaten and Abused goes R, go slightly L and up (tricky) into the crack above until the first U can be clipped. Undercling around the flake (crux) then continue up the face and arête above. Good natural pro is available in the crack (wires and cams), then 9 fixed anchors lead to a rap station.</climb>
  <climb name="Beaten and Abused" id="21" fa="D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Pete Steane, Feb 1989." grade="22" length="40m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="3.">The sustained and classic LH start to the upper crack of Crazed and Confused. Start just R of the arête to the R of SSSSI, at the base of the black streaks. Layback the thin flake to the horizontal break, then move R and climb the hand and finger crack past a couple of bulges to a second horizontal break. Step R and finish up the widening crack as for Crazed and Confused.</climb>
  <climb name="Crazed and Confused" id="20" fa="N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Feb 1989." grade="22" length="40m" extra="" stars="**" number="4.">The upper half of the wall is split by a prominent crack. Crazed and Confused is the RH variant. About 15m R of SSSSI, locate a large pedestal at the base of a steep black streaked wall. Climb the LH side of the pedestal. Launch off this and up a short steep wall (crux) until it is possible to step L into the prominent crack. Climb the crack and then mount the block on the L to a belay stance.</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="26">Black Magic Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="27">Routes from Wizard to Warm Glow start from ground level. Routes from Lignum Vitae to Equipoise start from the prominent step, L of the prow. A 15m scramble up a weakness on the LH side of the prow provides access to the step.</text>
  <image id="37" legend="true" legendTitle="Bulging Buttress" legendx="13" legendy="15" src="Bulging Buttress nls.jpg" height="1500">
      <rect style="yellow_outline" id="8669" height="356" width="199" x="29" y="228" text="SSSSI Wall"/>
      <path id="68998" points="553,508, 543,457, 537,389, 522,295, 506,271, 499,186, 517,155, 549,142,lower" d="M553,508C549,487.6 545.7701597634062,477.60306324033405 543,457C540.2298402365938,436.39693675966595 540.5102547915383,416.079108391867 537,389C533.4897452084617,361.920891608133 524.9316284578451,306.1591018717974 522,295C519.0683715421549,283.8408981282026 508.3821198043525,282.2891764641054 506,271C503.6178801956475,259.7108235358946 497.6463626429415,200.27472121988993 499,186C500.3536373570585,171.72527878011007 506.62819247461886,164.1271906223354 517,155C527.3718075253811,145.8728093776646 536.2,147.2 549,142" linkedTo="11"/>
      <path id="59028" points="152,984, 158,941, 174,914, 192,841, 214,731, 283,666,lower 268,643, 266,614, 274,570, 278,507, 308,360,lower" d="M152,984C154.4,966.8 154.23601172602818,952.9763263262739 158,941C161.76398827397182,929.0236736737261 169.95887047232486,925.8856750813975 174,914C178.04112952767514,902.1143249186025 185.5779456060826,870.3808988521721 192,841C198.4220543939174,811.6191011478279 196.5065165065526,764.6413144104757 214,731C231.4934834934474,697.3586855895243 277.2553864041301,675.3615925266029 283,666C288.7446135958699,656.6384074733971 271.41303881400046,653.4398834310603 268,643C264.58696118599954,632.5601165689397 265.0475224830386,625.5884764563632 266,614C266.9524775169614,602.4115235436368 272.0063068473847,587.7770972774864 274,570C275.9936931526153,552.2229027225136 273.9643361147737,531.9261592911038 278,507C282.0356638852263,482.0738407088962 296,418.8 308,360" linkedTo="14"/>
      <path id="8699" points="306,661, 358,531, 378,417, 386,340,lower" d="M306,661C326.8,609 344.8972998376244,575.4035949947173 358,531C371.1027001623756,486.5964050052827 373.50851867029525,447.63831907048615 378,417C382.49148132970475,386.36168092951385 382.8,370.8 386,340" linkedTo="13"/>
      <path id="69378" points="382,670, 422,500, 440,251,belay" d="M382,670C398,602 412.4213921920003,569.1971839922734 422,500C431.5786078079997,430.8028160077267 436.9694878572193,296.9627674988404 440,251" linkedTo="12"/>
      <path id="73867" points="670,587, 654,444, 640,335, 668,308, 659,259,lower" d="M670,587C663.6,529.8 659.1964213510321,487.64993934866965 654,444C648.8035786489679,400.35006065133035 638.4067658567212,350.4771316775651 640,335C641.5932341432788,319.5228683224349 667.1899923127972,316.5500811426952 668,308C668.8100076872028,299.4499188573048 662.6,278.6 659,259" linkedTo="9"/>
      <path id="64999" points="750,1341, 718,1108, 698,943, 655,820, 613,524,belay" d="M750,1341C737.1999999999999,1247.8 726.6130293104819,1173.922801260996 718,1108C709.3869706895181,1042.077198739004 709.1378518026261,993.9158939548619 698,943C686.8621481973739,892.0841060451381 665.362170099372,871.0794031957273 655,820C644.637829900628,768.9205968042727 629.8000000000001,642.4 613,524" linkedTo="7"/>
      <path id="27767" points="656,544,lower" d="M656,544"/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="34036" height="22" width="31" x="563" y="119" text="47m"/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="78434" height="22" width="31" x="670625" y="531522" text="35m"/>
      <path id="30919" points="234,998, 283,822, 344,706," d="M234,998C253.6,927.6 264.5189292138042,871.0588424506288 283,822C301.4810707861958,772.9411575493712 319.6,752.4 344,706" lineStyle="dashed" arrow="true"/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="87024" height="22" width="7574" x="198" y="1009" text="Scramble Up"/>
      <path id="1515" points="438,251, 444,136," d="M438,251C441.0305121427807,205.0372325011596 441.6,182 444,136" lineStyle="dotted"/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="65521" height="22" width="31" x="612" y="247" text="30m"/>
      <path id="92737" points="705,601, 694,489, 686,381, 679,327, 669,308," d="M705,601C700.6,556.2 697.727256399805,532.1577056819534 694,489C690.272743600195,445.8422943180466 688.0081439088167,402.6879542152201 686,381C683.9918560911833,359.3120457847799 680.9479082993337,335.3645474030211 679,327C677.0520917006663,318.6354525969789 668.1899923127972,316.5500811426952 669,308" linkedTo="38"/>
      <path id="50658" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="87745" points="51,863, 84,765, 93,755, 121,712, 151,695, 165,646, 175,620, 178,596, 170,574, 176,556,lower" d="M51,863C64.2,823.8 82.04951370606153,770.0155361844132 84,765C85.95048629393847,759.9844638155868 89.91953140901144,759.4125631168215 93,755C96.08046859098856,750.5874368831785 111.41373277850992,721.9168281601621 121,712C130.58626722149006,702.0831718398379 143.34915791462242,706.4762631280663 151,695C158.65084208537758,683.5237368719337 161.6039722683499,656.6125866614066 165,646C168.3960277316501,635.3874133385934 172.5655156346486,629.3634014051978 175,620C177.4344843653514,610.6365985948022 179.01184022679405,605.3089300865051 178,596C176.98815977320595,586.6910699134949 168.47243547863184,581.434147337325 170,574C171.52756452136816,566.565852662675 173.6,563.2 176,556" linkedTo="51"/>
      <path id="80669" points="128,705, 130,670,label 139,641, 152,607, 169,574," d="M128,705C128.8,691 127.94261136481076,681.970261150192 130,670C132.05738863518923,658.029738849808 134.9957444599748,652.4667317737086 139,641C143.0042555400252,629.5332682262914 146.04975163899712,620.2888880062397 152,607C157.95024836100288,593.7111119937603 167.47243547863184,581.434147337325 169,574" lineStyle="solid" linkedTo="53"/>
      <path id="77359" points="187,1011, 196,952, 198,920, 213,892, 222,831, 230,771,lower" d="M187,1011C190.6,987.4 194.46093169272342,964.7322923601972 196,952C197.53906830727658,939.2677076398028 194.53633784621584,932.2246899545323 198,920C201.46366215378416,907.7753100454677 209.6918590365424,904.2676894061552 213,892C216.3081409634576,879.7323105938448 218.63134340020522,854.9769087397158 222,831C225.36865659979478,807.0230912602842 226.8,795 230,771" linkedTo="52"/>
      <path id="45" points="169,539,lower" d="M169,539"/>
  <climb id="51" stars="*" extra="11Þ" number="5." name="Whatever" length="25m" grade="21" fa="Roger Parkyn, James Parkyn, Nov 2015">On the lump of rock left of The Wizard. Grunty work through the overhang (going rightwards) leads to some thinner moves on the arete (crux), continue up and then step left onto the ledge. Finish by lay-backing the fin of rock up to the anchors. &lt;br/&gt;Variant, "What's Left" (23): from the U at the overhang go straight up and climb through to the ledge on the left side of the arete.</climb>
  <climb id="53" stars="" extra="Þ" number="6." name="What&apos;s Left" length="25m" grade="23" fa="Roger Parkyn, Owen Gervasoni, Dec 2015. ">'Whatever' Variant. From the U at the overhang on 'Whatever' go straight up and climb through to the ledge on the left side of the arete.</climb>
  <climb name="The Wizard" id="16" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981." grade="18" length="80m" extra="" stars="**" number="7.">A spell-binding route that is best after a dry spell. On the LH side of Bulging Buttress and obscured in the corner is a prominent line capped by a large overhang. Scramble up over blocks to the base of the line. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Climb up to the overhang, pass it on the L and follow the steep crack to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Continue up a short, awkward corner to a large ledge then straight up to base of the black corner. &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m. A demanding pitch. Up the vee-chimney, jam through the bulge and continue pleasantly to the top. Descend by walking down Avalanche Couloir or arranging a tape abseil.</climb>
  <climb name="Cold Power" id="15" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1996." grade="21" length="30m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="8.">A scary start and a pumpy finish. This route is on the wall of the buttress R of The Wizard. It might be advisable to have your belayer stay down in the gully below to avoid the 4m horizontal fall factor 1.0 from the belay. Either way, if you fall off the bottom section your gear is unlikely to hold so take your pick: risk become a gurgling bloody mess via the 4m horizontal or painlessly take the 20m death plunge.</climb>
  <climb name="Heat Pump" id="14" fa="R. Parkyn, N. Hancock, 2002." grade="22" length="50m" extra="Þ ↓" stars="***" number="9.">Leave your trad rack at home. Best on a warm day. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 18. Start about 10m L of the scramble up to Black Magic. Follow the line of U-bolts past the LH end of an overlap to ledge with DBB. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m 22. Classy climbing between the arête and the prominent black streak on the LH side of the steep wall.</climb>
  <climb name="Warm Glow" id="13" fa="R. Parkyn, D. McConnell, 2003." grade="22" length="50m" extra="Þ ↓" stars="*" number="10.">The second pitch runs parallel to Heat Pump's second pitch and ascends the wall 2m L of Lignum Vitae (LV).&lt;br/&gt;1. 25m 19. Climb pitch one of Heat Pump to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;2. 25m 22. Ascend the steep face L of the LV chimney to a ledge with rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="52" stars="*" extra="" number="11." name="Smokin&apos;" length="20 m" grade="20" fa="Roger Parkyn, James Parkyn, Steve Goss, Jan 2016. ">Climb the steep crack-line about 6 m right of the start of Heat Pump. Takes a range of gear from wires to #4 Camalot. Hardest near the bottom.</climb>
  <climb name="Lignum Vitae" id="12" fa="P. Jackson, R. McMahon, Jan 1971." grade="16" length="80m" extra="↓" stars="**" number="12.">Sharpen your trad techniques on this old school number. Follows the conspicuous black chimney in the centre of the steep and impressive wall. Scramble up the weakness and just below the top of the step move left to belay at the base of the chimney 10m L of Black Magic.&lt;br/&gt;1. 50m. Up the groove past three ancient pitons to a ledge at 35m near the Warm Glow (WG) rap station. Bridge R and make an intimidating move into the bottomless chimney. Continue up line to a a large ledge with a bollard belay. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Climb the chimney at the back of the ledge then up slab to a small tea-tree at the base of double-cracks in a corner. Climb the cracks and finish via the left line up a short chimney to top. Descent: A 45m rap from threaded slings reaches the WG rap station. Then a 50m rap to base of cliff.</climb>
  <climb name="Black Magic" id="11" fa="K. Carrigan, I. Lewis, Jan 1975." grade="18" length="53m" extra="↓" stars="***" number="13.">A Pipes classic that is now generally done as a single pitch. Takes the line R of centre on the steep south-facing wall. Scramble 15m up the weakness to the top of the step. Climb the slab to a stance below an over-hanging crack. Jam up and over a spike then up the crack to a ledge. A thoughtful move L and up into small niche is necessary to gain the base of a wide crack equipped with finger jams. Up and step right onto the wall then back left into the crack to reach the next ledge. Continue up the hand-crack to a pea-pod. Step R at this point to the prow and Black Magic rap station - 47m to top of the step, with a second rap (35m) from there to the ground.</climb>
  <climb name="Magic Mushroom Variants" id="10" fa="Original Variant (2), G. Phillips, S. Young, Jan 2010, (1) T.McKenny, T. Meldrum, Jan 2011" grade="17" length="50m" extra="↓" stars="" number="14.">Well protected (and possibly a bit easier) variants to Black Magic (BM). Climb Black Magic to just above the bulge at about 15m, and step R onto the face, past a spike, and either 1) climb the crack on the LH side of the huge detached flake or 2) traverse R another metre and climb the off-width on the RH side of the flake. Continue directly up the face above via a fist and hand crack, trending R and finishing up the prow to the BM rap bolts.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="48">The next three climbs share the same rap station down to the Jelly Roll rap station (30m).</text>
  <climb name="Malignant Mushroom" id="9" fa="S. Parsons, S. Brennan, Apr 1981." grade="19" length="32m" extra="↓" stars="*" number="15.">A companion line to Black Magic that follows the RH end of the steep wall. Some loose rock. Belay off the Jelly Roll rap anchors on the step, 7m R of Black Magic. &lt;br/&gt;Climb up past a dangerous looking spike (or take the line just to the R) and follow the corner until level with a small roof. Traverse R on slopey rail and step around the prow. Move R slightly and up to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="Equipoise" id="38" fa="H. Jackson , T. Smith, Feb 2013." grade="23" length="30m" extra="↓ " stars="**" number="16.">Climbs the arête R of Malignant Mushroom. Belay off the Jelly Roll rap anchors on the step, 7m R of Black Magic.&lt;br/&gt;Step R of the arête and ascend flake then arête with increasing difficulty and spaced protection to the overlap. Difficult moves past this, up past a bolt, then R to small ledge. Easier moves back on the arête lead to another ledge and up to the DBB .&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="Isonomy" id="49" fa="A. Donoghue, H. Jackson, Feb 2014." grade="24" length="30m" extra="↓ " stars="**" number="17.">Start R of Equipoise on the subsidiary ledge slightly below and R of the far RH end of Black Magic ledge where the belayer can see the route and the ropes run clear of the arête. Mainly bolted but take 1, 2 and 3 camelots. &lt;br/&gt;Climb arête to ledge at 2m, then diagonally R for 3 m to reach shallow R facing corner, up this then hard face moves to rest below roof. Direct through roof crux and up to rest 3m above roof. Up and slightly L on upper face to finish with Equipoise at DBB. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="35">Jelly Wall</text>
  <text class="text" id="29">The access track meets the cliff at the base of the next routes. They climb the wall just right of the prow and finish on the step in the buttress. They can be done as access routes to climbs starting from the step or as nice single pitch climbs in their own right. There are rap stations above Jelly Roll (35m), Smoke and Mirrors (32m) and Dal Nulla (30m).</text>
  <image id="41" legend="true" legendTitle="Jelly Wall" legendx="21" legendy="19" src="jelly.jpg" height="1066" width="800">
      <path id="26201" points="34,1051, 157,742, 196,611, 191,491, 250,359, 303,213,lower" d="M34,1051C83.20000000000002,927.4 138.1101120813963,793.305868420899 157,742C175.8898879186037,690.694131579101 189.55126107131926,658.6068667970254 196,611C202.44873892868074,563.3931332029746 180.93387714816214,537.9752399752434 191,491C201.06612285183786,444.0247600247566 228.3878867423363,412.6443525502724 250,359C271.6121132576637,305.3556474497276 281.8,271.4 303,213" linkedTo="7" lineStyle="solid" arrow="false"/>
      <path id="64279" points="288,961, 351,654, 412,354, 457,188,belay" d="M288,961C313.200000000000052,838.2 326.4905534724369,773.977693888958 351,654C375.5094465275631,534.022306111042 396.7407974270743,421.0829094243714 412,354C427.2592025729257,286.9170905756286 439,254.4 457,188" linkedTo="32"/>
      <path id="47022" points="440,938, 509,572, 500,430, 509,331, 556,268, 558,153,lower" d="M440,938C467.6,791.6 502.3242795162613,628.5211000956544 509,572C515.6757204837387,515.4788999043456 500,469.76329966187416 500,430C500,390.23670033812584 498.7282113566678,360.71481714678237 509,331C519.2717886433322,301.28518285321763 547.6555373676223,298.31253772578026 556,268C564.3444626323777,237.68746227421974 557.2,199 558,153" linkedTo="30"/>
      <path id="39831" points="563,914, 592,510, 605,288, 636,142,belay" d="M563,914C574.6,752.4 586.0453534046426,598.752589730804 592,510C597.9546465953574,421.2474102691961 597.9122093871437,347.27970330752595 605,288C612.0877906128563,228.72029669247402 623.6,200.4 636,142" linkedTo="40"/>
      <path id="67163" points="613,922, 625,698, 637,579, 661,545, 663,459, 640,422, 642,335, 654,267, 680,143,belay" d="M613,922C617.8,832.4 621.6606610525996,745.7247191232633 625,698C628.3393389474004,650.2752808767367 633.1872001596005,595.2043993216981 637,579C640.8127998403995,562.7956006783019 657.4749586259483,561.2694217263928 661,545C664.5250413740517,528.7305782736072 665.9328042963114,476.177853735538 663,459C660.0671957036886,441.822146264462 642.9098146949732,439.1817629607942 640,422C637.0901853050268,404.8182370392058 639.5153792060643,362.5083016471454 642,335C644.4846207939357,307.4916983528546 648.6375041149131,294.09471605096513 654,267C659.3624958850869,239.9052839490349 669.6,192.6 680,143" linkedTo="31"/>
      <path id="48531" points="604,26,lower" d="M604,26"/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="16312" height="22" width="32" x="619" y="13" text="35m"/>
      <path id="37109" points="714,940, 716,652, 736,561, 743,376, 754,187, 745,137,belay" d="M714,940C714.8,824.8 713.8402778117045,689.2061231529084 716,652C718.1597221882955,614.7938768470916 732.3714647593032,598.0916935715669 736,561C739.6285352406968,523.9083064284331 739.4400746934377,449.9673369252381 743,376C746.5599253065623,302.0326630747619 753.8299522528116,207.32070578901423 754,187C754.1700477471884,166.67929421098577 748.6,157 745,137" linkedTo="50"/>
  <climb name="Eye for a Line" id="28" fa="T. McKenny, I. Snape, D. Humphries, Dec 2010." grade="16" length="34m" extra="↓" stars="" number="18.">The open corner to the left of Jelly Roll has been climbed. The rock quality is as good (or bad) as it looks... Climb either up the corner or the left wall, breaking out right round the arête where the rock quality finally deteriorates to suicidal. Finish up last few moves of Jelly Roll. Descent as for Jelly Roll.</climb>
  <climb name="Jelly Roll" id="7" fa="S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr 1978." grade="17" length="35m" extra="↓" stars="*" number="19.">Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary. The route ascends the cracked wall below the step, on the right hand side of the prow. Start near the left edge of the wall. Climb the face to a crack, which is followed to gain the step of Bulging Buttress, below the start of Black Magic. Rap off (DBB 35m) or continue up another route.</climb>
  <climb name="Breakneck" id="32" fa="M. Douglas, D. Cox , Nov 1962" grade="14" length="30m" extra="↓" stars="" number="20.">One of the earliest routes on the Pipes. Although the first pitch has recently (2013) had a bit of a make over, with much loose rock removed, it still requires care. Several upper pitches mentioned in the first Guide have never been identified. Start 3m right of Jelly Roll and climb the steep and in places loose crack. Finish on the step.</climb>
  <climb name="Smoke and Mirrors " id="30" fa="I. Snape and T. McKenny, V. Keller, Dec. 2012." grade="15/19" length="32m" extra="↓" stars="*" number="21.">Start about 5m R of Jelly Roll, in the middle of the wall on good rock (directly under the lower abseil line from the step). Climb straight up the wall, either trending L at the final overhang and finishing up the last few metres of the Breakneck crack (15), or climb the roof direct and the terrific steep wall above (19) to the rap station (32m).</climb>
  <climb name="Dal Nulla" id="40" fa="P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone, May 2013." grade="13" length="30m" extra="↓   " stars="" number="22.">Definitely worth a look. The corner cleft 2m right of Smoke and Mirrors. "Traditional" so watch out! Bridging and good holds lead past a jammed block to a bulge and short exit chimney to DBB. Rap: 30m.</climb>
  <climb name="Crucio" id="31" fa="T. McKenny, I. Snape, Dec 2012." grade="17" length="30m" extra="↓" stars="**" number="23.">Takes a spellbinding line up the face of the pillar 5m to the right of Smoke and Mirrors, to left of Breaker Spur. Climb the open book corner and then take as direct line as possible up the exciting steep wall above, trending slightly right then left to gain the finger crack. Finish up left hand arête to the ledge and tree belay. Rap station to left above Dal Nulla (30m).&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb name="Humpty Dumpty" id="50" fa="P. Robinson, C. (Basil) Rathbone, Jan 2015." grade="14" length="30m" extra="↓   " stars="" number="24.">The line on the wall 2m right of Crucio. Scramble up to a small flat rock at the bottom of a hidden corner. Bridge easily up using big holds to the crack system splitting the wall above. Follow this and climb a short finger crack in the right wall (crux), move left and finish up the crack on the right. At the top go 2m left to belay as for Crucio. Rap off the Dal Nulla rap station to left (30m).&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="heading3" id="25">Breaker Spur Area</text>
  <text class="text" id="42">The next climbs start to the right of Jelly Wall.</text>
  <image id="43" legend="true" legendTitle="Breaker Spur Area" legendx="8" legendy="9" src="breaker-spur.jpg" height="1217" width="1000">
      <rect style="yellow_outline" id="69260" height="404" width="232" x="752" y="42" text="Farewell to Arms"/>
      <path id="4545" points="149,1137,label 167173,818809, 172201,720704, 209211,659, 231233,590, 248,507, 267258,438455,label 293,436, 354349,406429, 341363,386399, 304,375,belay 304,372, 305,341," d="M149,1137C1561137C158.200000000000026,10091005.48 164167.8383629792974181710235922395,857852.1914190275211575899703081 167173,818C169809C178.1616370207025918289764077605,778765.8085809724798424100296919 164196.7117261914666547180935421693,747721.59132227516198744367596701 172201,720C179704C205.2882738085333552819064578307,692686.40867772483811255632403299 197206.206080758167301671839269082,684676.9866017192924752940726039 209211,659C220659C215.793919241832798328160730918,633641.0133982807076247059273961 223226.8003857971381214841805029667,618.06003484192331470393609435 231233,590C238590C239.1996142028618885158194970333,561.93996515807678529606390565 241244.4023789682425214314486077234,534527.85662213408728270177518293 248,507C254507C251.5976210317574885685513922766,479486.14337786591291729822481707 261249.41606769128564721946271165,446468.8102043093049445498181054955 267258,438C272455C266.58393230871445278053728835,429441.1897956906950654501818945045 283277.210482334892966830713951265,439440.6007421296945437626531567815 293,436C302436C308.789517665107043169286048735,432431.3992578703054662373468432185 347339.392215626898914991066290537,412436.883108721980321773787631935 354349,406C360429C358.607784373101185008933709463,399421.116891278019778226212368065 348363.8901095886979539193405221465,391402.365274520314641853589987215 341363,386C333399C362.1098904113020560806594778535,380395.634725479685458146410012785 311304.7502478323867826873954327,381375.687809790483368696432967922 304,372C296375C303.2497521676133173126045673,362374.312190209516641303567032078 310304.71090185522394826873954327,329372.9861178506396 8696432967922 304,372C303.173126045673,371.1303567032078 304.6,353.4 305,341" linkedTo="4"/>
      <path id="94190" points="334363,236251, 400393,214234,belay 408398,190192, 433424,167177, 432,141, 431,95,label 428431,3055,lower" d="M334M363,236C360.4251C375,227244.2 391385.405836763934769629116827554,219245.3423176872837886252030621233 400393,214C408234C400.594163236065240370883172446,208222.6576823127162213747969378767 402392.18514897700312635523750391,198202.2817575176016854766176202483 408398,190C413192C403.81485102299697364476249609,181.7182424823983245233823797517 429417.80259158742043399006706414,180186.2066869215244799014899403792 433424,167C436177C430.19740841257966600993293586,153167.79331307847553 431.9492832355387,121.0103606537611300985100596208 430.74530852345526,155.6978144395242 432,141C433.25469147654474,126.3021855604758 431.1860339353943,110.99891844390994 431,95C430.05071676446138139660646057,6879.9896393462388700108155609006 429.2431,5671 428431,3055" linkedTo="4"/>
      <path id="8320" points="" d=""/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="27088" height="22" width="31" x="386" y="374" text="37m"/>
      <path id="96632" points="48,500, 97,400, 134,313, 162,223, 188,203, 171,169, 173,142,lower-left" d="M48,500C67.60000000000001,460 81.19934784506712,434.35723201130753 97,400C112.80065215493288,365.64276798869247 121.00329118558277,348.39103784849 134,313C146.99670881441722,277.60896215151 156.21793782973037,234.77827479129 162,223C167.78206217026963,211.22172520871 187.87136916622222,216.1203450453333 188,203C188.12863083377778,189.8796549546667 173.5859772343279,179.51630741960017 171,169C168.4140227656721,158.48369258039983 172.2,152.8 173,142" linkedTo="38"/>
      <path id="19455" points="336364,236253, 319328,282, 304,312,308,label 307,340," d="M336M364,236C329253C349.26,254264.46 324336.7688820407423738941889824116,263273.251133367587312657616532186 319328,282C313282C319.2311179592576361058110175884,300290.748866632412787342383467814 309316.710901855223941572860853289,328296.98611785063965179717643297 304,312,308C307.8427139146711,319.4820282356703 309,327.2 307,340" lineStyle="dotted" arrow="false" linkedTo="4"/>
      <path id="29771" points="190,1139,label 215,956, 219,829, 225,769, 238,730, 284,755, 313,769,belay 313,637,label 310327,438446, 356353,412430, 373,398,lower 357,304355, 350,320,label 319335,229296, 339,245,lower" d="M190,1139C200,1065.8 210.26605436440394,1006.6042464494751 215,956C219.73394563559606,905.3957535505249 217.71201668345583,853.0852880193761 219,829C220.28798331654417,804.9147119806239 221.90067335944127,785.1491230218586 225,769C228.09932664055873,752.8508769781414 228.4027799689424,743.352653956254 238,730C247.5972200310576,716.647346043746 272.57176592797305,749.057318282546 284,755C295.42823407202695,760.942681717454 309.9258104512497,781.5087712673289 313,769C316.0741895487503,756.4912287326711 313310.478530194670957136017970602,689.7978314786967504728249671 313,637C312637C315.521469805329052863982029398,584.2021685213042495271750329 306324.032526191621468315520511294,458457.76003736942289896718135404 310327,438C313446C329.967473808378631684479488706,417434.23996263057720103281864596 348343.328076948211414991066290537,416437.329156579223621773787631935 356353,412C363430C362.671923051788685008933709463,407422.670843420776478226212368065 372373.9962618454918639193405221465,398401.399982532369741853589987215 373,398C373398C372.0037381545081460806594778535,397394.600017467630358146410012785 367361.2361366493024703806476355055,336368.035316550594769430658943236 357,304C346355C352.7638633506975396193523644945,271341.964683449405330569341056764 334353.295528092082895,259330.6073442876776 319,229350,320C346.04471907917105,309.3926557123224 336.6428054074305,307.2009459597534 335,296C333.3571945925695,284.7990540402466 337.4,265.4 339,245" linkedTo="39"/>
      <path id="89083" points="541,1054, 524,773, 534,658, 511,544, 466,480, 380,403, 468,413, 464,366, 461,318, 476,254, 448,194,lower" d="M541,1054C534.2,941.6 524.8160722557622,819.1663733259759 524,773C523.1839277442378,726.8336266740241 536.6169944498565,704.0993637705492 534,658C531.3830055501435,611.9006362294508 522.1680906497307,573.2341196419422 511,544C499.83190935026926,514.7658803580578 487.30076803957184,502.92678086702006 466,480C444.69923196042816,457.07321913297994 378380.94296207318642625686865517,438406.41077054825664308975042753 380,403C381403C379.05703792681367374313134483,367399.58922945174345691024957247 450.73290293797027,420.60574513446545 468,413C485.26709706202973,405.39425486553455 465.3865120602394,384.8169493889634 464,366C462.6134879397606,347.1830506110366 458.95057292784406,337.12798600678894 461,318C463.04942707215594,298.87201399321106 478.7415748890567,280.1504066340792 476,254C473.2584251109433,227.84959336592078 459.2,218 448,194" linkedTo="33"/>
      <path id="41805" points="626,1053, 595,606, 567,426, 555,189, 521,132, 514,12,belay" d="M626,1053C613.6,874.1999999999999 601.8264441312493,678.5454316998868 595,606C588.1735558687507,533.4545683001132 573.9575990922453,498.5329705366572 567,426C560.0424009077547,353.4670294633428 559.1038510742832,215.22896121389684 555,189C550.8961489257168,162.77103878610316 526.9909272007452,157.86327108614398 521,132C515.0090727992548,106.13672891385602 516.8,60 514,12" linkedTo="3"/>
      <path id="88226" points="" d=""/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="54642" height="22" width="31" x="460" y="182" text="46m"/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="77823" height="22" width="31" x="274" y="217" text="49m"/>
      <path id="72647" points="366,892, 355,770, 368,668, 378,571, 380,537, 363370,407403, 363,408," d="M366,892C361.6,843.2 354.63278215756543,811.1283983526735 355,770C355.36721784243457,728.8716016473265 363.52162278866024,706.7476984807221 368,668C372.47837721133976,629.2523015192779 376.75724811606824,584.5667080662548 378,571C379.24275188393176,557.4332919337452 381380.2408731735389648004245559,550.56688003069216080891567383 380,537C378537C379.7591268264611351995754441,523.43311996930793919108432617 363370.052261327081572625686865517,407406.39657124667794308975042753 363370,407C362403C369.947738672918437374313134483,406399.60342875332215691024957247 362363.9962618454918639193405221465,408411.399982532369741853589987215 363,408" linkedTo="45"/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="51626" height="22" width="31" x="381" y="18" text="50m"/>
      <path id="51662" points="105,496, 148,402, 187,289, 196,251, 188,203," d="M105,496C122.2,458.4 132.77215295053148,440.4410285273169 148,402C163.22784704946852,363.5589714726831 182.26787685659664,303.8864707219564 187,289C191.73212314340336,274.1135292780436 195.81837856454737,266.61944344892555 196,251C196.18162143545263,235.38055655107442 187.87136916622222,216.1203450453333 188,203" linkedTo="49"/>
      <rect style="black_text_on_solid_white" id="66431" height="22" width="31" x="187" y="131" text="30m"/>
      <path id="89684" points="238,730, 248,648, 268,567,label 282,503, 293,440, 370343,401432, 373,399," d="M238,730C247.5972200310576,716.647346043746 242.01892386872692,680.4971803132505 248,648C253.98107613127308,615.5028196867495 262.01756203197255,592.5133383930583 268,567C273.98243796802745,541.4866616069417 277.0591417044053,528.099560141621 282,503C286.9408582955947,477.90043985837895 276279.289481244648478008120714889,459455.3690103755211362989228267 293,440C309440C306.710518755351531991879285111,420424.6309896244789637010771733 362327.32807694821141242293400362,405440.329156579223613633246323144 370,401343,432C358.8757706599638,423.86366753676856 373.39193405221465,402.41853589987215 373,399" linkedTo="39"/>
      <path id="12100" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="16690" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="63412" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="23783" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="47640" points="" d=""/>
      <path id="7622" points="" d=""/>
  <climb name="Breaker Chimney" id="5" fa=" T. Terry, K. Hall, Mar 1968. Direct finish: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Apr 1979." grade="14" length="108m104m" extra="↓" stars="" number="25.">The prominent chimney high on the face to the Rright of Malignant Mushroom and Lleft of Breaker Spur, Start 20m northright of the noseprow of the buttress, as for Breaker Spur. &lt;br/&gt;1. 36m32m. As for Breaker Spur. &lt;br/&gt;2. 12m. Follow athe shortline chimney just Lleft of the crestarête, swing Lleft and up a short nose to gain a terrace (as for Breaker Spur). &lt;br/&gt;3. 30m. Traverse Lleft to the foot of the chimney, which is followed to a broad ledge. &lt;br/&gt;44a. 30m. Two alternatives: (a) Original route: traverse Lleft along the ledge and continue heading up, keeping towards the Lleft skyline. Move Rright and scramble to the top.&lt; (b)br/&gt;4b. 30m. Direct finish: follow the line directly above the chimney past a chockstone. Abseil via the Black Magic rap station (1 x 47m; 1x 35m).</climb>
  <climb name="Breaker Spur" id="4" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967." grade="1516" length="82m" extra="↓" stars="*" number="26.">Worthwhile face and crack climbing that follows the left hand side of the prominent narrow rib 20m right of the prow. Start at the crack at the very foot of the spur.&lt;br/&gt;1. 32m 14. Climb the line up the rib keeping mainly to the left of the arête. AtAfter reaching the first platform at 25m, traverse right across the blank wall and climb up to a second platform. Belay at the left end of this on the arête.&lt;br/&gt;2. 22m 15. Up the line just left of the arête, passing an old rustypiton peg (still in situ 2017), and climb a short nose to a terrace (pitches 3a and 3b head left from here). Continue For pitches 3c and 3d, continue up towards a short vegetated slope to the base of the prominent corner. andBelay belay where it steepens.&lt;br/&gt;3a. 28m. Move From the terrace, move left and up the rib on sloping ledges. Descent is usual from the top of pitch three via the rap station - 1 x 50m and 1 x 37m.&lt;br/&gt;3b. 26m28m. Move From the terrace, move left and up the chimney andto exit through the bulge.&lt;br/&gt;3c. 28m. Climb straight up the crackcorner, andfollowing followit the corner to a ledge.&lt;br/&gt;3d. 28m 16. ClimbRecommended straightand up the the variant depicted on the topo. Climb the corner for 9m6m, movetraverse right into the next line and follow this corner system to a ledge and U-bolt rap station. (Cleaned1 inx Nov. 201250m; 1 x 37m).4. 15m.Now Up the gully to the left over a couple of jammed blocks to a big established gum. Traverse left round the corner to a short gully above the Black Magic rap station. Down climb to them to rap off (1 x 47m and 1 x 35m)out of favour, a final pitch once went up the gully for a further 15m to a big established gum.</climb>
  <climb name=" Indian Summer " id="39" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson (alt), April 2013, Left hand Variant: A. Adams, T. McKenny, A. Beech, Nov, 2016,. althoughThe the top bulge hadwas been climbed in 1974 by G. Kowalik and P. Robinson." grade="16" length=" 49m" extra="↓" stars="**" number="27.">The original route offers entertaining and varied climbing, first on the narrow rib of Breaker Spur and then up the right-hand crack to finish up the narrow fin above. Start at the foot of the rib. &lt;br/&gt;1a. 30m 15. Left hand variant. Climb the rib, but instead of traversing right as for the original line, continue straight up following the exciting narrow rib through two bulges to pull over the top onto athe first platform, rejoining the original line. Belay here, or move right and up to the belay station as for Pitch 2. Despite the entertainment value, there's one large suspect piece of architecture capping the first bulge and a detached block on the arêteBeware there's a large suspect piece of architecture capping the first bulge. Traverse right across the thin wall and up to the belay station on the second platform as for Pitch 2.&lt;br/&gt;1b. 20m 15. Original route. Climb the front face of the rib to below the first small roof on the right. Hand traverse right 3m and up to belay at the base of the obvious corner.&lt;br/&gt;2. 17m 15. Follow the corner with its hidden surprises and pull up over the jammed block onto the first platform. From the right-hand end of the platform, climbtraverse up right across the wall and rightclimb up to the second platform and belay station.&lt;br/&gt;3. 12m 16. Climb the crack on the left then move left onto the arête, keeping clear of the hollow sounding flakes on the right. High step up the arête and then move right and up the wall to a rap station on a narrow fin of rock. Descent (1 x 49m).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="text" id="44">The next climb takes the short red arête to the right of the second pitch of Indian Summer.</text>
  <climb name="Spice Trade" id="45" fa="L. Martin, T. Smith, Feb 2014." grade="19" length="19m" extra="" stars="" number="28.">Start >The 6m run-out above dodgy gear on this route might be a bit too spicy for most. Start from the LHleft hand end of Cracked Pepper "'ledge"' or step Rright as an alternative 2ndsecond pitch to Indian Summer. Climb the lovely little arête on minimal protection until it re-joins Indian Summer toat DBB.the Abelay 6-7m run-out above dodgy gear might be a bit too spicy for moststation on pitch 2. Either finish up Indian Summer or rap off (1 x 37m).</climb>
  <climb name="Cracked Pepper" id="33" fa="I. Snape, T. McKenny (alt.), A. Adams, Dec 2012." grade="17" length="46m" extra="↓" stars="**" number="29.">Access to the route involved significant floral landscaping! A strong line up the left-facing black corner 10m right of Breaker Spur. Scramble up steeply to start at the "ledge" on the left. Possibly best climbed as one long sustained pitch - but take plenty of mid-sized cams.&lt;br/&gt;1. 26m 17. Easy climbing up to the base of the crack which is climbed using the left face and right arête until face holds on the left wall lead to the hakea above the small roof. Climb past tree and up and left to triple bolt belay.&lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 16. Step back right into the corner and climb the terrific crack line, gently over the Sword of Damocles, to belay at a spike on a ledge on the left. Abseil from rap station down the line (46m).</climb>
  <climb name="Breakout" id="3" fa="G. Kowalik, P. Robinson, Mar 1979." grade="13" length="105m" extra="" stars="" number="30.">Scene of the departure of a very large rock. On the wall 10m right of Breaker Spur find a bottomless chimney about 30m above the ground. Now heavily vegetated.&lt;br/&gt;1. 24m. Up a series of loose, vegetated walls to a tree covered ledge beneath the chimney. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Climb the bottomless chimney and up the line to belay on a large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 27m. Up the walls above, trending slightly left at the top to a jam crack. &lt;br/&gt;4. 24m. Easier climbing to the top.</climb>
  <climb name="Hormesis" id="47" fa="H. Jackson, A. Donoghue, Mar 2014." grade="20" length="48m" extra="↓" stars="" number="31.">"What doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Add a grade if you’re not used to loose rock and long run-outs - add a star if adventure is all that matters to you. Many loose pieces are used in the process of climbing - the loose bits are fairly large, while the surfaces are good quality - Hamish" &lt;br/&gt;The name really says it all - you have been warned. It would be prudent for belayers to stand out of the possible line of fire...&lt;br/&gt;Start as for Breakout and climb up the dense vegetation to the airy face above. Follows a line just R of the Breakout chimney though some small roofs and open faces reaching a ledge on the L at 40m, then back R onto the face again to finish at larger ledge. Descent: traverse easily L to Cracked Pepper rap station (48m to base of line).</climb>