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Comment: Guide edited
Guide
<guide version="3">
  <header id="101" access="Approach via the Bulging Buttress/University Buttress track, which is signposted off the Organ Pipes track. The track climbs uphill to meet the base of Bulging Buttress, traverses left below the wall of Jelly Roll, then across past the little Aperitif sub-buttress and on up to enter Avalanche Couloir. A rock platform has been constructed under Chancellor Direct, a prominent crack line on the lower LH wall, and this route is a handy reference for locating other climbs. &lt;br/&gt;For routes on the Triclinicity and University Buttress Left Side either go down left around the arête, or scramble through the notch just past Ozymandias. For routes in Avalanche Couloir head uphill from Chancellor.&lt;br/&gt;Descent varies, with some routes requiring a scramble across to the Carpe Diem rap station (50m) while other rap stations are included in individual route descriptions.  To descend any other routes make your way to the head of the couloir and scramble down the couloir itself. Apart from a short down climb near the top the descent is straightforward." acknowledgement="" history="" intro="University Buttress is the farthest left (south) of the major Organ Pipes buttresses. Round the LH end of the buttress, the cliff is broken into a complex of minor features, while the east face features the smaller Triclinicity buttress and a narrow vertical face split by the striking 60m high Ozymandias corner, easily discernible from the Organ Pipes Track. &lt;br/&gt;Avalanche Couloir is the prominent couloir that splits University and Bulging Buttresses. It offers a mixture of shorter length trad and sport routes. The couloir is divided into sunny (LH) and shady (RH) sides and has L and R forks near the top. It also offers a route down from the top of the LH end of the Pipes. &lt;br/&gt;" name="University Buttress" rock="Broken dolerite buttresses up to 60m" sun="Morning sun" walk="20 min" camping="" autonumber="true"/>
  <text class="heading2" id="117">University Buttress</text>
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  <text id="135" class="heading3">University Buttress Left Side</text>
  <text class="text" id="130">The first routes are located on the left/south side of the Buttress. Scramble through the notch left of Ozymandias, then follow a foot pad around until under a black and orange streaked prow with two cracks that diverge at a small roof - this is Two Angry Young Men. The line of bolts on the face immediately left is Mountain Rocket.</text>
  <climb id="136" stars="*" extra="12Þ" number="1." name="Mountain Rocket" length="25m" grade="22" fa="Dave Humphries, Jon Nermut, Mar. 2017.">Takes the sustained face left of Two Angry Young Men. At about two-thirds height you are forced right to a steep bulge to gain the arete, before heading back left to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="108" number="2." name="Two Angry Young Men" stars="*" extra="" length="50m" grade="21" fa="N. Deka, M. Ling, Feb 1988.">Takes the LH crack on the prow, 15m L of Sisyphus. Some nice rock but needs a clean.&lt;br/&gt;1. Trend R up the steep wall to the top of a loose pillar. Climb the hand crack above, past the roof and up the line to the vegetation. Move R to the nose and ascend this to an offwidth corner that passes L of a roof. Climb this to a large ledge below twin cracks. (DBB)&lt;br/&gt;2. Climb the thin LH crack (crux).</climb>
  <climb id="107" number="3." name="Sisyphus" stars="" extra="" length="55m" grade="16" fa="P. Robinson, D. Drake, Feb 1982.">Starts on the south side of University Buttress. Go down then around L from the toe of Triclinicity buttress for 6m to a gully. Scramble up the gully over pineapple grass to a large ledge.&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Up the clean chimney-crack to the top of the buttress. Climb the black-streaked grooves up the wall directly above the chimney, and belay on a large grassy ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Climb the blocks to a crack on the L, which is climbed to the top. Abseil off (tape) or scramble L to pitches 4 and 5 of Prodigal.</climb>
  <climb id="106" number="4." name="Pete&apos;s Power Plummet" stars="*" extra="" length="70m" grade="19" fa="Pete Steane, D. Fife, Mar 1992 (to within 5m of the top).">The scene of a 30m factor 2 power dive. Starts on the front (east arête) of the Triclinicity buttress.&lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Climb the hand crack up the front of the buttress. &lt;br/&gt;2. 30m. Up the nice looking but a bit lichenous wall, then the corner above, stepping L at the roof to a good belay ledge. &lt;br/&gt;3. 15m. Up the steep hand crack in the corner, then step L and up the mossy ledges and corner to the top. This pitch is not actually a doddle as sometimes reported, and is worth protecting in case of a slip. The normal method of descent, for normal people, is by abseil (tape) or by traversing across to the rap station above Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <text id="137" class="heading3">Triclinicity Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="131">The main face of Triclinicity Buttress of is split by a crack (Triclinicity), with an off-width to the RH side separating the face from the main University Buttress.</text>
  <climb id="122" number="5." name="Cleavage" stars="*" extra="" length="20m" grade="18" fa="O. Gervasoni, T. McKenny,  Feb 2015.">Climb steep and clean cracks just L of the central Triclinicity crack and move around L arête onto a good ledge at half height. Ponder then commit to the delicate crux sequence moving up and back R to regain the arête and the undercling crack above. Hopefully you remembered to place high gear before that move L, and have a #1 Cam for that undercling crack. Rap from DBB (20m).</climb>
  <climb id="105" number="6." name="Triclinicity" stars="" extra=" ↓   " length="20m" grade="18" fa="P. Robinson, K. Bischoff, Mar 1981.">Strenuous, character building trad climbing that is graded conservatively!! The loose rock that once marred this route has now mostly departed. Follows the R facing corner crack in the centre of the face which exits through a small overhang. Up the corner, jam through the bulge and continue energetically up through the groove. Either a) finish off L at the Cleavage rap station (20m), or b) continue up to belay at the notch. Finish up the short wall and descend from Wide Boy DBB (25m).</climb>
  <climb id="121" number="7." name="Wide Boy" stars="*" extra="" length="24m" grade="23" fa="R. Parkyn, O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015.  ">The wide crack (cleft?) to the R of Triclinicity and 3m L of Ozy provides some nice technical stemming. Take a standard rack from Wires up to #4 Camalot (a single set may suffice). Two U's allow it to be climbed by those who don't own a #5 and a #6 Camalot (or who aren't packing them on the day!). Rap the route (25m) to descend.</climb>
  <text id="138" class="heading3">Ozymandias Area</text>
  <climb id="104" number="8." name="Ozymandias" stars="*" extra="" length="60m" grade="16" fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, R. Williams, Oct 1966.">"Two vast and trunkless legs of stone stand, with wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command." The big lichenous corner on the front of the buttress provides a thorough work out. &lt;br/&gt;1. 20m. Climb the corner and belay at a small stance above the bulge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 40m. Continue up the corner, taking care not to come a cropper on the moss and lichen.</climb>
  <climb id="129" number="9." name="Blind Vision" stars="*" extra="" length="50" grade="22" fa="R. Parkyn, O. Gervasoni, Mar 2015. ">A complex and varied outing. &lt;br/&gt;1. 29m 20. Starting at the hand-crack between Ozy and Blank Generation, climb up to the orange dihedral (at 15m), up that, then right slightly and up easier ground for another 8m to a DUB. This pitch can be done as all trad or, optionally, the last 9m can be climbed via four U's left of the trad version (marked as dotted line on the topo). The U option is about 22 and climbs quite nicely if you can resist the temptation to move right to the easier ground (yes, it is a bit contrived). &lt;br/&gt;2. 18m 22/23. Climb the left side of the arête above the belay via 3 U's. An easier section follows (no U's but a small/medium wire or 0.5 Camalot can be used if wanted). There are then three U's leading through the subtle features of the headwall section (crux) to a DUB.&lt;br/&gt;Either of these pitches can be mixed with the Blank Gen pitches: i.e. for 20+20 or 22+22.</climb>
  <climb id="103" number="10." name="Blank Generation" stars="***" extra="" length="60m" grade="22" fa="G. Child, K. Carrigan, 1978.">No intellectual ability required, just pure grunt, A pumpy number! Best done as one pitch skipping the Blind Vision DUB.&lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 22. Up and R into the varied crack just right of the arête following this to ledge (original route belayed here) then back left of arête for 5m2m to DUB (the original route and belay are marked on the topo but the DBB of Blind Vision is easily accessed). DUB.&lt;br/&gt;2. 20m 20. Follow crack system up and R through rooflet. Continue up crack above (crux) to ledge (Tradwith anchor)the UseBlind Vision DUB left of ledge to descendon left.</climb> 
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  <text class="heading2" id="17">Avalanche Couloir – Sunny Side</text>
  <text class="text" id="34">Routes on the Sunny Side of Avalanche Couloir are described from bottom to top (L to R). Descent for routes from Rebel without Claws to Piping Hot is from the Carpe Diem rap station (60m). It can also be done safely with 50m ropes and a short scramble. This abseil has a propensity for stuck ropes, hence the preference for 60m ropes. Walking up the gully before pulling your ropes eliminates the issue.</text>
  <climb id="20" number="11." name="Rebel Without Claws" stars="" extra="↓" length="25m" grade="24" fa="D. Fife, Pete Steane, Dec 1990.">A top-rope problem because natural pro was considered insufficient. This route takes the difficult line up the orange face L of Chancellor Direct. Up thin face, through the roof and up the seam to belay ledge. Rap off slings or finish up Chancellor.</climb>
  <climb id="21" number="12." name="Chancellor Direct" stars="***" extra="↓" length="60m" grade="17" fa="I. Lewis, L. Closs, 1972.">A photogenic and thought provoking test-piece that attracts the crowds. This route starts at a conspicuous belay platform underneath the clean RH facing corner located at the foot of the couloir on the LHS . &lt;br/&gt;1. 38m 17. Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L. A strategically placed cam in the rope-sized crack on the lip can prevent a rope snag. Up the corner to belay at the top of detached pillar. &lt;br/&gt;2. 22m 16. Climb the delightful crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb id="22" number="13." name="Chancellor" stars="*" extra="↓" length="55m" grade="16" fa="M. Douglas, T. Terry, Mar 1967. FFA: Unknown.">Takes the prominent corner line on the north face of the lowest buttress forming the L side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken R-facing corner about 8m up Avalanche Couloir on the L, as for Vice Chancellor. It is also possible to start up the short wall just R of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m, but it doesn't add much to the route except the possibility of a rather painful ground fall. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m 16. Follow the corner for 15m, traverse L and up to small square ledge. Climb awkward crack to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m 16. Up the clean crack above. The move off the next ledge into the crack was originally aided. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.</climb>
  <climb id="23" number="14." name="Vice Chancellor" stars="" extra="↓" length="60m" grade="11" fa="G. Batten, M. Douglas, R. Mansfield, Feb 1968.">The big R-facing corner between Carpe Diem and Chancellor Direct, about 8m up Avalanche Couloir on the L (as for Chancellor Original Start). &lt;br/&gt;1. 15m. Up Chancellor to a stance. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone. &lt;br/&gt;3. 20m. Climb out around the chockstone, and up the final corner crack.</climb>
  <climb id="24" number="15." name="Carpe Diem" stars="***" extra="↓" length="45m" grade="19" fa="N. Deka, N. Smith, J. Otlowski, Apr 1990.">Seize the day by all means, but don't forget your RP's. The route is even better now that the big spike has gone. Starts up the pillar 15m R of Chancellor Direct and just L of Piping Hot. Scramble up to belay below the base of the pillar. Climb the crack for 6m until it is possible to step R onto a stance. Step up and back L to gain the base of the shallow corner. Follow the corner line for 3m before stepping R and up the edge of a flake to a niche and ledge. Climb the delicate wall over territory where the big spike once resided to reach a bulge. Gain the shallow groove above then proceed to the belay ledge and rap anchors (60m).</climb>
  <climb id="25" number="16." name="Piping Hot" stars="*" extra="↓" length="30m" grade="20" fa="D. Bowman, L. McLeod, Feb 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Feb 1981. Alt finish: K. Bischoff, Feb 1981. ">The shallow corner immediately R of Carpe Diem that is capped by a roof at 18m. Scramble steeply up to the start. Bridge and jam the corner to the roof. Move R under the roof (crux) and continue up broken corners to the top. Alternatively, traverse L at the roof and up the awkward crack (grade 18). Traverse around L to the Carpe Diem rap station.</climb>
  <climb id="26" number="17." name="Flying Dutchman" stars="" extra="" length="62m" grade="13" fa="M. Tillema, D. Klees, Nov 1972.">About 1m L of the arête of Terra Nullius is a wide crack in the wall. After climbing most of the first pitch, it is possible to make a balancy traverse R to the rap station on Terra Nullius for a neat 1 pitch route. This variant might get a star if the black moss was cleaned up. &lt;br/&gt;1. 30m. Follow the crack line. &lt;br/&gt;2. 25m. Up the wall to the R for 10m and over scrubby ground to a large rock pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Climb either of the two chimneys above (the L one is Tweedledee, and the R one is Tweedledum).</climb>
  <climb id="27" number="18." name="Terra Nullius" stars="**" extra="9Þ ↓" length="30m" grade="21" fa="R. Parkyn, Feb 1994.">Pleasant arête and face climbing on the next conspicuous arête up the Couloir from Carpe Diem. The crux is near the middle.</climb>
  <climb id="28" number="19." name="Reindeer" stars="" extra="" length="62m" grade="11" fa="M. Tillema, R. Tillema, Nov 1972.">Start about 25m up Avalanche Couloir, just R of Terra Nullis at a scrubby chimney veering slightly R. &lt;br/&gt;1. 27m. Straight up the chimney which becomes more difficult where it narrows. Belay a short distance above this. &lt;br/&gt;2. 28m. Up the chimney, veering slightly R after a few metres. Continue up to a large rock pinnacle. &lt;br/&gt;3. 7m. Climb either of the two chimneys above (the L one is Tweedledee, and the R one is Tweedledum).</climb>
  <climb id="29" number="20." name="Piledriver" stars="" extra="" length="25m" grade="18" fa="S. Scott, A. Herington, 1988.">The face R of Terra Nullis. Move R up face to gain twin hand cracks which are followed to a belay.</climb>
  <climb id="30" number="21." name="Non Gradus Anus Rodentum" stars="" extra="" length="25m" grade="15" fa="T. McKenny, P. Robinson, Mar 2005.">Not worth a rat's arse. Takes the "obvious" corner line just R of Pile Driver. A hand crack, an overhang, a steep corner, the odd tree, some lichen and a clod or two of grass thrown in – all the makings of a traditional Pipes classic. Tape abseil.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="31">The next two climbs are found near the top of the LH fork in Avalanche Couloir, on the only east-facing buttress. This buttress is obvious from the top of the Falstaff Pinnacle.</text>
  <climb id="32" number="22." name="Sphygmus" stars="" extra="" length="18m" grade="18" fa="M. Jackson, Jan 2000.">This route follows the curving layback flake on the RH side of the buttress. Face moves lead to a thin finger crack and then to a steep layback. Finish via the easy crack system.</climb>
  <climb id="33" number="23." name="Clench Your Fist and Think of England" stars="" extra="" length="18m" grade="20" fa="H. Jackson, Jan 2000.">The other route on the Sphygmus buttress. The thin crack that goes up the middle-L of buttress, with an unusual crux move to gain the finger crack proper. The face section is quite sustained for its length. Finish as for Sphygmus.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="2">Avalanche Couloir – Shady Side</text>
  <text class="text" id="3">Routes on the Shady Side are described from top to bottom. The first two climbs are near the top of the RH fork of the Couloir on the south side, roughly opposite Rodents of Unusual Size.</text>
  <climb id="16" number="24." name="Protein Pill " stars="" extra="" length="15m" grade="17 " fa="D. Fife, N. Ward, 1982.">A slab with a finger crack.</climb>
  <climb id="15" number="25." name="Hot In The Sun " stars="" extra="" length="15m" grade="21 " fa="S. Scott, P. Steane, and a cast of thousands, 1989.">A prominent finger crack that widens to hands, splitting a buttress just above and to the L of Protein Pill.</climb>
  <climb id="13" number="26." name="Kwang Hwa Lantern" stars="**" extra="Þ ↓" length="20m" grade="27" fa="A. Williams, Apr 2000.">The face/arête on the L, at the top of Avalanche Couloir. Start on the sloping ledge, at the base of the crack to the R, step L to climb the face then continue up arête. Six FH and a #2 Camalot to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="12" number="27." name="Torre" stars="*" extra="Þ ↓" length="8m" grade="25" fa="K. Robinson, Apr 2000.">The south side of the free standing pinnacle at the top of Avalanche Couloir. Two bolts with some natural gear lead to DBB.</climb>
  <climb id="11" number="28." name="Rodents Of Unusual Size" stars="" extra="" length="20m" grade="16 " fa="G. Cooper, Phil Jackson, 1989.">Awkward and dirty, another Cooper special. About 30m further up the RH side of the Couloir from the Falstaff Pinnacle is a good looking hand crack. Climb it if you can.</climb>
  <text class="text" id="8">The next two climbs are on the Falstaff Pinnacle and appear to cover much of the same ground. Rap in for Two Little Angels, scramble up to the first ledge for Falstaff. You can choose how you get to and from the top, jump as per the Jackson lads or tyrloean as per Garry and Simon...</text>
  <climb id="10" number="29." name="Two Little Angels" stars="" extra="Þ ↓" length="20m" grade="22" fa="G. Phillips, S. Young, 6 Mar 2007.">In their dreams! Rap in and climb up the front face of the pinnacle, to the L of Falstaff in an awesome position. 4 bolts and natural gear (cams from small to hand size). Tyrolean to pinnacle to access it, or jump...</climb>
  <climb id="9" number="30." name="Falstaff" stars="*" extra="↓" length="25m" grade="19M0" fa="H. Jackson, M. Jackson, Jan 2000.">Requires one amusing belayer-assisted move. About 20m up from Cecilia and overhanging the gully is the Falstaff pinnacle. The jump to and from its summit is highly recommended by the first ascentionists and is a good (if possibly a very rapid) descent option following the climb. Start at the ledge a quarter of the way up the pinnacle on the RH side. &lt;br/&gt;1. 22m 19. Climb a short hand/finger crack in the R-facing corner until a horizontal break at 8m leads out L to the front of the pinnacle. Climb the front face (crux) to a ledge 3m from top. &lt;br/&gt;2. 3m. To conquer the summit, stand on the shoulders of your belayer and don't cheat by taking the easy option around the back.</climb>
  <climb id="7" number="31." name="Celecia" stars="" extra="" length="25m" grade="18" fa="K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Feb 1981.">Marginal and loose. Two thirds of the way up Avalanche Couloir on the R, a wall is split by a thin crack widening slightly at the top. Climb the steep crack, with a strenuous finish. A couple of bits have fallen off this one recently (2004) and the grade may be a bit variable! Scramble off to the R.</climb>
  <climb id="5" number="32." name="Breakaway" stars="" extra="" length="60m" grade="13" fa="M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, Jun 1967.">The forerunner of Southern Crest and not as good. Start at the vertical crack in a shallow corner, not far above the first rock step in Avalanche Couloir. &lt;br/&gt;1. 17m. Climb the crack which widens into an easy chimney. Belay on the ledge where the route joins Southern Crest. &lt;br/&gt;2. 43m. Continue up Southern Crest from pitch 4.</climb>
  <climb id="4" number="33." name="Southern Crest" stars="" extra="" length="90m" grade="15" fa="M. Douglas, J. Whelan, Dec 1967.">Ideal for beginners looking for a taste of mountaineering. This route follows the RH skyline. Start 10m up the RH side of Avalanche Couloir, directly opposite Chancellor. &lt;br/&gt;1. 25m. Take the natural line up the crest of the sub-buttress to a large platform. &lt;br/&gt;2. 12m. Walk to and climb the 5m block at the platform head. Follow a short ridge to a grassy ledge below an imposing wall with two parallel cracks. &lt;br/&gt;3. 10m. Climb up the wall using the cracks to a ledge. &lt;br/&gt;4. 43m. Climb the short corner above to a large platform then up the greasy chimney. Climb the easy crack to a platform, step across the gap to the wall above, and climb the double crack. Follow the Bulging Buttress skyline to the top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="126">Aperitif Buttress</text>
  <text class="text" id="35">This small buttress is right next to the main path north from University Buttress, downhill from Southern Crest and approximately 50m left of Cold Power/Heat Pump. Short the climbs might be but they are steep and pumpy, ideal for an evening’s exercise if you want some trad fun or an easier alternative to the harder sports climbs. The first climbs all start by the track at the lowest point of the buttress.</text>
  <climb id="133" stars="" extra="2Þ, mixed↓" number="34." name="Canapes " length="17m" grade="18" fa="B. Bull and T. McKenny, I. Crossland, Dec, 2016.">1a. A tasty morsel climbing the left-hand side of the arête. Thoughtful moves past the bolts, then over the small roof, with a trad hand crack to the DBB (17m).&lt;br/&gt;1b. Extra Nibbles. (17) If you want a little more trad action, climb the alternative start up the crack just round to the left of Canapes, joining the original route above the roof.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="134" stars="*" extra="↓" number="35." name="The Cocktail Hour" length="17m" grade="18" fa="T. McKenny and B. Bull, Dec. 2016.">You may be shaken if not stirred by this cheeky little number – a heady blend of equal measures of delicious exposure and excellent climbing, mixed with a good dash of smashed egos and an olive of fun.&lt;br/&gt;Start at the very toe of the buttress and climb the arête, keeping just to the right hand side near the top. DBB (17m).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="36" number="36." name="Aperitif " stars="" extra="" length="32m" grade="17" fa="D. James, H. Jackson, Jan 2013.">1. 16m 17. From the bottom of the buttress, climb the weakness trending right up the loose face past several horizontal cracks, moving up right (crux) to some flakes that cap a section of orange rock. Up the flakes to large ledge. &lt;br/&gt;2. 16m 12. Up the scrubby ledges above and and left to chimney and cracks. Belay on ledge. To descend, rap from spike (tape: 26m) or (not recommended) escape via roped scramble to SSSSI track above. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <text class="text" id="127">A few metres north (right) of Aperitif and buried in the bush is a hidden secret, a steep black streaked wall.</text>
  <climb id="128" number="37." name="Catch the Sun in Flight" stars="" extra="4Þ↓" length="11m" grade="16" fa="O. Gervasoni, T. McKenny, A. Adams, March 2015.">The bolted line on the left. Neat face climbing trending slightly left to DBB.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="123" number="38." name="Sun Stealer" stars="*" extra="6Þ↓" length="13m" grade="19" fa="O. Gervasoni, B. Ikin, Mar 2015.">Sustained face climbing on excellent rock up black streak right of Catch the Sun in Flight. Shares last bolt and DBB with 19 Shades.</climb>
  <climb id="120" number="39." name="19 Shades of Grey" stars="*" extra="6Þ↓" length="14m" grade="19" fa="T. McKenny and O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015.">Quality climbing up the wall and arête, trending left near the top to DBB. &lt;br/&gt;The enticing yellow overhanging arête above is disappointingly (and lethally) loose.&lt;br/&gt;</climb>
  <climb id="132" number="40." name="Sparkle" stars="" extra="5Þ↓" length="10m" grade="20" fa="T. McKenny and  O. Gervasoni, D. Stephenson, April  2015.">Fun climbing through the roofs on the pillar 2m right of Shades of Grey.</climb>
</guide>