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Guide
<guide version="2">
  <text class="heading1" id="1">Other Southern Crags</text>
  <text class="text" id="2">This section contains information about other crags in the South and West of Tasmania for which we do not have full guides for.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="5">Broadmarsh</text>
  <text class="text" id="6">There is a very small dolerite crag called Fool's Paradise across the river at Broadmarsh - you can see it from the road. Pretty damn worthless, but there were about 10 routes done here in the seventies.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="7">Chauncy Vale</text>
  <text class="text" id="8">Chauncy Vale (otherwise known as Chossy Vale) is a sandstone valley near Bagdad, about 30 minutes north of Hobart. The road to the start of the walk is sign posted from the main road in Bagdad. Climbing is currently banned, however a couple of bolted routes were put up in the late 90s. To find them, head up walking track that goes up the hill, after about 10 minutes it passes under the first buttress. There is a big roof crack at about 22, then a nice route with about 5 bolts at grade 20. Further right is a good bolted arete. More cliffs were explored and cleaned, but the vast majority of cliffs in the valley are total choss. On the other side of the highway is Green Valley. There are some sandstone cliffs up there that could have potential, but I don't know if they've been climbed on. They are on private land.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="9">Derbyshire Rocks</text>
  <text class="text" id="10">Derbyshire Rocks is the outrageous choss by the side of the road between New Norfolk and Boyer, on the eastern side of the river. For some unknown reason Phil Robinson "endured" 2 routes there in 1976, documented in CCT circular no 100. Apparently though the smaller outcrop by the side of the river (on the other side) has some deep water soloing.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="13">Kingston - Alum Cliffs</text>
  <text class="text" id="14">Some routes have been done on the mudstone cliffs north of Kingston Beach. No details are known.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="15">Glendevie</text>
  <text class="text" id="16">This sandstone crag about an hour south of Hobart has been given a cursory look over by passing climbers over the years but only one climb has been recorded to date. It has some average looking sandstone and is only really worthwhile for locals. From Glendevie, south of Geeveston on the Huon Highway, continue towards Dover for about a kilometre and the crag with a number of detached boulders is visible on the R as the road starts to climb up the hill (GR 991 113, Tasmap 1:25000, Waterloo). In the same area of the world there are a bunch of sandstone buttresses on the south side of the river at Huonville - but they are very chossy.</text>
  <climb id="17" stars="" extra="" number="" length="30m" grade="14" fa="D. Bowman, M. Steane, 26 Nov 1976." name="Gypsy Folk">The route traverses under the huge roof at the RH end of the crags. Disappointingly easy. Start at the obvious crack which runs up to the roof. A hard chimney move, then traverse R to large ledge.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="18">Goats Bluff</text>
  <text class="text" id="19">Goats Bluff is a sedementary headland passed on the way to South Arm, at the end of Calverts Beach. Park at the Storm Bay carpark lookout.</text>
  <climb id="20" stars="" extra="" number="" length="" grade="13" fa="D. Humphries, B. Sellers, Apr 1986." name="Too Loose for Lizards">Rap into the zawn. The climb is the obvious line with 3 bolts and 2 pegs. Clip the bolts with wires (?). Up left to friend placement then down and up to top.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="21">Longley Edge</text>
  <text class="text" id="22">These couple of routes were done at Longley Edge in the seventies and are here for historical interest. These days there are houses right up to the cliff which makes things a little awkward.</text>
  <climb id="23" stars="" extra="" number="" length="22m" grade="16" fa="B. Bull, I. Lewis, Oct 1972." name="Osiba">Starts about 15m left of Moongoose at a small crack line on the wall going up to a large tree near the top. 1. 15m Go up to a small overhand and move round this on its left and go up the crack until a move leftwards enables the tree to be reached. 2. 7m Continue up the line on horrifying rock to a belay at the top.</climb>
  <climb id="24" stars="" extra="" number="" length="30m" grade="17" fa="P. Jackson, R. McMahon, Oct 1970." name="Mongoose">A spectacular pitch. Head across the paddocks to the cliff. At the left end is an eroded cave. 15m to the R is a leftwards slanting crack with three overhangs. 1. 20m (crux). Climb the crack. The crux is a layback move round the central overhang, although the final section may grip some. A large runner needed before the final roof which is laybacked on good undercuts with small footholds to a delicately rotten exit. From the sandy cave move right up the rib for 5m to a bushy ledge and poor belay. 2. 10m Up on rounded holds to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="25" stars="" extra="" number="" length="35m" grade="16" fa="R. McMahon, P. Jackson, J. Moore, Oct 1970." name="Ratsack">The corner right of Moongoose. 1. 20m Up the corner to the small overhang. Step R (crux) and mantelshelf. Continue slightly left on poor rock to a poorer finish onto the ledge. 2. 15m Traverse the slab to the left and make an awkward move up into a narrow chimney. Continue up the corner (crux) to an easier finish.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="26">Mt Hobbs</text>
  <text class="text" id="27">Mt Hobbs is a dolerite peak near Woodsdale, out the back of Buckland. Some obscure routes were done on it in the 70s.</text>
  <gps id="50">
    <point pid="0" latitude="-42.48588" longitude="147.61733" easting="550735" northing="5296090" zone="55G" code="MTH000" description="Mount Hobbs - turn off"/>
    <point pid="1" latitude="-42.51333" longitude="147.58076" easting="547709" northing="5293063" zone="55G" code="MTH010" description="Mount Hobbs - Buckleys Chance"/>
  </gps>
  <climb id="42" stars="**" extra="9Þ" number="" length="25m" grade="24" fa="Nick &amp; Heather Hancock, Mar 2014." name="Buckleys Chance">On the largest buttress about 50 metres above the road and visible from it, climb the black water streak just right of the main arete. Awesome moves on blank looking rock lead to a final breather just over the small roof. Continue up the easier final wall to a thin finish.</climb>
  <text class="heading2" id="28">Nicholls Rivulet</text>
  <text class="text" id="29">There is a small sandstone crag about 8km along the Nicholls Rivulet Rd (C626), on the left as you are going south. It was toproped in the 80s. Its on private land.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="30">Pelverata Falls</text>
  <text class="text" id="31">There are some small dolerite cliffs along the escarpment that forms Pelverata Falls. Some of these have been toproped and led. There is a very nice bridging corner, about grade 23. With a decent 4WD (or mountain bike) you can drive right to the top of the cliffs via the Snug Tiers. Otherwise you can walk to the bottom via the walking track that starts near the township of Pelverata. Either way, this cliff is of dubious value.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="32">Richmond</text>
  <text class="text" id="33">There are two cliffs at Richmond, in the same general area. Drive right down Henry street and you can see the obvious Barwick's Rocks. Spice Cliffs are further around the hill (apparently). The rock is loose sandstone, and its on private land.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="34">Roadside Rock</text>
  <text class="text" id="35">This small west facing mudstone edge is up past Melton Mowbray. You will probably never climb here unless you are really desperate or if everywhere else in Tasmania is wet and cabin fever has set in. From the Midlands Highway at Melton Mowbray travel 6km along the Lake Highway towards Bothwell. Turn right on Lower Marshes Rd and travel 8km to reach a roadside crag on the right. Apsley Edge is passed en route. The sedimentary escarpment is 15-20m high, 300m in length and is situated 80m above the road.</text>
  <image id="65" src="Roadside Rock Topo.jpg" height="707" width="1000"/>
  <climb id="53" stars="" extra="" number="1" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Blind Half Wit">Face climb corresponding to the letter A on the topo</climb>
  <climb id="54" stars="" extra="" number="2" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Grass Clump">An easy solo past a clump of grass that corresponds to route B on the topo.</climb>
  <climb id="56" stars="" extra="" number="3" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Half a Move to a Gum Leaf">Climbs the conspicuous rock feature that corresponds to route C on the topo.</climb>
  <climb id="57" stars="" extra="" number="4" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Send No Flowers">A brushed line that leads to a crackline, that corresponds to route D on the topo.</climb>
  <climb id="58" stars="" extra="" number="5" length="" grade="" fa="" name="The Notch">The obvious notched feature that is a tad dirty, that corresponds to route E on the topo.</climb>
  <climb id="59" stars="*" extra="" number="6" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Cardiac Arete">Guaranteed to send your heart into a flutter! Takes the brushed arete just right of the Notch, that corresponds to route F on the topo.</climb>
  <climb id="60" stars="" extra="" number="7" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Nameless and Worthless">Further right is a worthless solo, that follows the line that corresponds to route G on the topo.</climb>
  <climb id="61" stars="" extra="" number="8" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Good Looking">Unclimbed, this project awaits the arrival of the desperados. Follows the corner that corresponds to route H on the topo.</climb>
  <climb id="63" stars="*" extra="" number="9" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Mr Hoobly">This route might be the saving grace for visiting this crag, but don't get too excited. Follows the corner a fair way right of the previous route, that corresponds to route I on the topo.</climb>
  <climb id="64" stars="*" extra="" number="10" length="" grade="" fa="" name="Bulbous Nose">Another potential mega classic that awaits your visit! A brushed line climbs the the tallest part of the cliff, just right of the longest corner line. This route is right of Mr Hoobly and not drawn on the topo.</climb>
    <text class="heading2" id="36">Shag Bay</text>
  <text class="text" id="37">Shag Bay is a pile of choss, but apparently "was climbed out by Phil Steane in early eighties". No further details are available.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="38">Sorell Creek Crags</text>
  <text class="text" id="39">There are three different small dolerite cliffs at Sorell Creek which were developed in the 1970s. They are in the gorge that the road which heads south from the Sorell Creek township goes through. They currently languish in obscurity, and will probably stay that way. But if someone is super keen, there are descriptions in the CCT circulars in the State Library.</text>
  <text class="heading2" id="40">The Rookeries</text>
  <text class="text" id="41">The Rookeries is an old dolerite crag on South Arm with access problems. There were numerous climbs done here in the early 80s and 90s by the Jacksons and they are in the process of collating and documenting these climbs, as well as reappraising the access. In the meantime they suggest that climbers do not climb there as access is still an issue.</text>
</guide>