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Guide
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
<header
        access="Scramble up from the Organ Pipes Track to the right side of the ramp.&lt;br/>Descent: There are two rap routes on the Tier that provide return access to the ramp. One (2 x 45m) descends Blue Meridian. Another (1 x 58m) descends Suicide Sadness and provides descent for routes at the LH end of the tier. Be mindful of this descent if you are using double 50m ropes - it is 58m long but it is possible to down-climb the final bit with care to the ramp."
        acknowledgement="" history=""
        intro="L of Central Buttress there is a big wall split by (from R to L) a group of three cracks and a very long chimney-corner. This is the Great Tier. At its base, a big ramp trends L underneath the three lines and ends below the chimney-corner (Nefertiti). Most routes, with few exceptions, begin from this ramp.&lt;br/>"
        name="Great Tier" new="false"
        rock="Broken dolerite cracks and faces up to 100m"
        sun="Morning sun" walk="15 min"/><image new="false"
        number="null." src="Great TierPrint.jpg"
        width="700">null</image><climbimage><text extraclass="9B ↓text"
grade        new="23false">See the Arena topo for the line of Blue Meridian.</text><climb
        extra="9B ↓" grade="23" length="23m" name="Shrapnel" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Follows the prow of a small buttress at the base of the gully just right of Great Tier (below the Arena). The route starts about 5 meters right of where the Great Tier access track heads up onto the left leading ramp where the other Great Tier routes start. Layback the pillar for 5 meters to a ledge, step left then up the face trending right to follow the arête to the top of the buttress. No natural protection required, 9 FH to a DBB. Alan Williams &amp; Campbell Godfrey, March 2008.

</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="21" length="90m" name="Slime Time"
        stars="*">Better than it sounds, except after rain. Start at the far R side of Great Tier, below a prominent hand crack halfway up the cliff and just L of the gully. (1) 45m. Climb the wall L of the gully, aiming for the base of the hand crack to belay on a small ledge with a dead tree. (2) 45m. Traverse R into the crack and move up this past a thin section involving flared finger jams (crux). Climb the arête above when the crack ends to belay on a large ledge just below the top. Abseil off as for Blue Meridian or climb to the top. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.
</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="17" length="90m" name="Blue Meridian"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="***">Deservedly popular, this mega-classic graces the wall L of Slime Time. From the big ramp where it is at its most eroded, start at a short vee-groove below some conspicuous horizontal white scabs. (1) 45m. Climb the vee-groove and the line above. A balancy move R and up leads between the white scabs past an odd mantle to a belay ledge and U-bolts. (2) 45m. Continue up the double hand cracks to an awkward move to gain a ledge. Up to the next ledge using a dubious block on the LH side. A steep layback is required to negotiate a bottomless chimney (crux) to reach the belay ledge. Descend via rap station (2 x 45m). G. Cooper, Pete Steane, Jan. 1985.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="10m" name="Shaky Flakes"
        stars="">On the small wall at the top of Great Tier, above Blue Meridian and Slime Time. Climb the crack system on the wall L of the scrubby corner. D. Fife, P. MacKenzie, 1983.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="124m" name="Feeble Fifties"
        stars="">To start scramble up to the base of the Roaring Forties line. (1) 35m. Climb cracks in the wall R of the chimney before traversing L into the Roaring Forties belay. (2) 25m. Continue up for a few metres and take an obvious traverse route R, across the face to the next major line. (3) 20m. Up the wall via the crack on the L. (4) 40m. Up the wide chimney awkwardly via scrubby ledges to the top. Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, Oct. 1981.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="144m" name="Roaring Forties"
        stars="">The prominent crack line on the R of the Tier. (1) 18m. Scramble up the lower rocks to a scrubby ledge. (2) 42m. Climb the chimney beside a large flake for 12m. Trend L for 3m, then up the face to a 5m vertical crack (4m L of the chimney). Layback the crack and trend R back into the chimney to a large leaning chock stone. (3) 45m. Continue up the chimney past a narrow section to a large ledge on the L. (It is possible to escape from here by easy climbing off to the L). (4) 12m. (Crux) Climb the steep corner directly above the chimney. (5) 16m. Trend L for a few metres to some slabs above a dead tree. Climb the slabs which lead to a black chimney with a finger crack. (6) 12m. Up the wall to the top. Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, 1977.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="141m" name="Doldrums"
        stars="">The middle crack of the obvious trio on Great Tier. To start either scramble up the ramp from the R to the base of the line (pitch 2) or (1) 21m. Direct start: up the steep face on small holds to the start of the crack. (2) 24m. Jam around the overhang and belay on a ledge beneath some cutting grass. (3) 24m. Climb the crack then the chimney, moving L at a small overhang, to belay at the base of an obvious crack. (4) 36m. Climb the crack and after passing a bush continue on sloping ledges to easier ground. (5) 36m. Scramble to the top. J. Moore, M. Tillema, May 1968. Direct start: Basil Rathbone, P. Robinson, R. Rolls, 1979.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15/16" length="100m" name="Slow Combustion"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Sadly for climbers, but not the mountain, the final originally clean pitch is now full of hardy alpine shrubbery. Worth doing for the first three pitches (which can be combined) - its good climbing at the grade. Start 3m L of Doldrums. (1a) 20m 15. Up the wall to the orange overhang and pass it on the L. Take the R hand of two cracks and jam until one can step R onto the face. Belay on a small ledge above. (1b) 20m 16. Alternate direct start. Climb the blocky wall to the R straight up to the middle of the roof, taking care with loose blocks. Steep moves out L on good holds (crux) to join the original route on the face above. (2) 20m 14. Follow the thin crack straight up the nice face. (3) 10m 14. Take the line on the arête (L) to a platform above. A 50m rap off the spike (bring a big sling) will get you to the ground, or do (4) 50m. Scrub bash up short walls and corners to the top. P.Robinson, C.(Basil) Rathbone, Nov. 1979, Alt. Start: H.Jackson, 1998.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="66m" name="Passiona" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Originally climbed after the 1967 fires, it takes a line up the chimney and gully R of Nefertiti. However, like a number of other old routes, it now apperas to be completely choked up by regrowth and is probably too bushy to be worth climbing. Start from the big ramp. (1) 30m. (Crux) Climb the small overhanging chimney above for 16m and step R onto the wall at the overhang. Go over loose blocks to a ledge. (2) 36m. Climb the scrubby gully taking the L hand alternatives. V. Kennedy, J. Moore, Jan. 1968.
</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="22" length="70m" name="Clouds of Obsession"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">The black streaked wall directly across from Suicide Sadness offers an excellent pitch. Starts from the ramp at a wall, 3m R of Nefertiti. (1) 35m 22. Climb the black streaked wall to belay on a small ledge with a large Hakea bush. Three pins (renewed 2006) although other pro is available. Quit while you are ahead and abseil off here (rap station, 25m) or: (2) 35m 16. Step around L and climb the hand crack or go straight up the wall above the belay. Continue up until forced L into Nefertiti, which is followed to the top. Descent as for Suicide Sadness (1) N. Deka, et al. (2) D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="15" length="77m" name="Nefertiti" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">Deserves an increase in traffic. This is the trad chimney-corner near the L edge of the Tier. (1) 41m. From the LH end of the big ramp bridge the wide chimney and belay on a ledge to the R. (2) 25m. Continue up the chimney and traverse L immediately below the wedged chockstone to access the Suicide Sadness rap station. J. Moore, P. Stranger, Feb. 1968.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Thirsty Thirties"
        stars="">One of the exceptions, this route starts at the cliff base and finishes at the ramp. Takes the prominent crack splitting the wall directly under Suicide Sadness and just L of a dead tree. (1) 5m. Boulder or climb a short wall to a scrubby ledge at the base of the crack. (2) 45m. Climb the wall and thin crack past the loose block (crux). Bridge up the easy corner to belay on the ramp. Scramble off R via the big ramp, or continue up another climb. D. Stephenson, D. Bruce, Apr. 1989.
</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="25" length="20m" name="Terror Firmer"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">A difficult variant finish to Suicide Sadness (SS). Instead of climbing through the roof on the 2nd pitch of SS, under-cling out R below the roof and climb the seam above to access the rap station as for Suicide Sadness. K. &amp; P. Robinson, Apr. 2000. 
</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="18" length="60m" name="Suicide Sadness"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">A thought-provoking face route and corner between Janzoon and Nefertiti. The "temporary" nature of the rock in the initial 15m detracts from the overall quality. Start from the LH end of ramp, as for Nefertiti. (1) 35m. Climb a couple of metres past a large ledge on L, then continue straight up  passing some very loose blocks and thin face moves (crux) to the bottom of RH facing corner. Climb the corner/crack toward the roof.  3m below the roof traverse L to belay ledge (Janzoon belay).  (2) 25m. Move back R to arête and climb through the roof to the twin cracks above.  Take the RH line to the belay ledge (U-bolts). The abseil (1 x 58m) requires an 8m down-climb at the bottom to regain the ramp (if using 50m ropes). M. Law, S. Parsons, D. Bowman, 1978.
</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="21" length="40m" name="Massacre Madness"
        stars="*">A merger of Janzoon and Suicide Sadness. Climb to the crux of Suicide Sadness (just after the blocks, at 15m). Instead of mantling up R to the ledge as you would for Suicide Sadness, step L and climb the face to the Janzoon ledge. Protection is a little problematic but adequate. P. Steane, D. Fife, May. 1996. 
</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="17" length="68m" name="Janzoon"
        stars="**">A thoughtful crack and corner climb that is a credible companion line to Suicide Sadness. Start from the ramp as for Suicide Sadness. (1) 38m. Up to the ledge on L and move in behind the tea-tree. Up the flakes above (again, watch for a loose block or two) and take the RH line (L facing corner). Bridge and jam up to an awkward bulge that once negotiated ends on a belay ledge (shared with Suicide Sadness). (2) 30m. Move up and R before stepping out L and up to gain access to the twin cracks above. Take the LH line to reach the Suicide Sadness abseil bolts (1 x 58m). I. Lewis, B. Kennedy, Jan. 1974.
</climb><climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="70m" name="Tsing Gai" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Ought to receive more attention. Located in an exposed position on the prow of the Great Tier. Start as for Janzoon. (1) 8m. Climb up and L to a ledge and belay. (2) 30m. Up the wall above taking the LH line to the top of some dubious flakes. Finger-jam the bulge and continue up the crack system until one can make a spectacular step R around the arête to Janzoon Ledge. (3) 32m. Step back around the arête and climb the thin crack just L of the arête to the top. Traverse back R to the abseil bolts above Suicide Sadness. K. Bischoff, P. Robinson, Mar. 1981. FFA: S. Parsons, P. Bigg, Apr. 1981.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="100m" name="Melancholy Mania"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The dark chimney corner L of Tsing Gai. Start at the foot of the corner, as for Peacepipe. (1) 35m Up the chimney corner for 15m then step R and scramble up grassy ledges to belay at the foot of a chimney. (2) 45m Climb easily up the chimney taking care with jammed blocks. At 40m, mantel on two large blocks into a cave. Chimney and bridge out around a large chockstone to belay on a large ledge. (3) 20m (crux) Climb the R hand crack for 3m and move L into the middle one. Continue jamming, chimney out past a chockstone and finish through a hole behind some jammed blocks. K. Bischoff, J. Barnett, A. Wing, Mar. 1981.
</climb><text
        class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">Zoloft Wall</text><image new="false"
        number="null." src="Zoloft.jpg" width="300">null</image><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The climbs from Dynamic Journey to Static Journey are found on the Zoloft Wall at the top of the cliffs between Melancholy Mania and Explorer (Step Tier). Approach from Mt Wellington summit and descend by abseil into the start of the climbs. Locating the climbs from the top is not easy but find the top of Sheeza (a route on Teardrop Wall) if you can and rap in (tape abseil) just north of there.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Dynamic Journey"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">Terrific value. Abseil 25m to the upper of two ledges in common with Zoloft and Static Journey. From the RH side of the ledge and R of the hanging arête/nose, climb the steep wall (crux) to the overhang (1m L of Melancholy Mania). Follow the hand crack up the R of the hanging headwall past a flake. Up the wall on the R to the top. P. &amp; K. Robinson Dec. 2000.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="Zoloft" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">Excellent exposure towards the top. Varied climbing on the face and cracks L of the upper pitches of Melancholy Mania. Access by abseil (40m) to a ledge at the base of line. Climb the finger crack/face off the L of the initial ledge. Up to large sloping ledge below the roof/overlap. Climb the blocky crack on the L of the hanging nose/arête until one can move R into the crack on the nose. Up through the steep section following hand cracks up the middle R of the hanging face. H. &amp; M. Jackson, Jan. 1999. 
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Choc-o-Block" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Abseil 25m down to the top ledge on Static Journey/Zoloft. The wide crack system just R of Static Journey. Climb to the top of the crack and move L to the off-width with chockstones. P. &amp; K. Robinson Dec. 2000.
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="50m" name="Static Journey"
        new="false" number="" stars="**">Best done on a warm summers day. Abseil in 50m to the start of the climb, (3m R of Explorer). Climb the corner on the R for 8m to a ledge (where Zoloft starts). Up the crack on the L (also used by Zoloft) for 14m to a large sloping ledge. Move L around the corner (Zoloft goes straight up here) and follow the thin line up the face to the top. P. &amp; K. Robinson Apr. 2000.</climb>
</guide>

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