Versions Compared

Key

  • This line was added.
  • This line was removed.
  • Formatting was changed.
Guide
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>
<header access="" acknowledgement="" history="" intro=""
        name="Lassies Wall and Harlequin" new="false"
        rock="Perfect white granite, 10-25m" sun="Morning sun"
        walk="5 min"/>
<text class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">Lassie's Wall</text><text
        class="description">A justifiably popular crag providing pleasant leading and top-roping on good rock. By and large these are Lassman's original descriptions, but other popular routes have been included. Every part of this wall has been climbed on, so don't send new descriptions, even if your damn sure you've created a new overnight sensation.</text><text
        class="description">There are two north leading descent ramps below and slightly to the south of the main White Water Wall camp site. To get to Lassies Wall follow the old road along the cliff top southish until you see a no vehicles past this point sign. You should pick up a good track, through the she-oaks to the steps down to the cliff. On the left is Ocean Boulevard, on the right, below the ramp at the bottom of the steps is Lassie's Wall - descend the ramp until it is possible to gain the ledge system below the wall.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="coles bay lassies.jpg" width=""/><climb grade="18"
        length="25m" name="Step Aside" number="1."
        stars=""> On the left hand end of Lassie's Wall, around the corner from the main face, a dyke crack system gives good climbing. You can escape hard moves at the top by climbing into the gully. Garn Cooper, Pete Steane, Dec 82.</climb><climb
        grade="15" length="25m" name="Cordon Bleu" number="2."
        stars="**"> This line starts through a small bulge and continues as a superb jam crack. Through bulge and jam to block belay. R.Lassman, N.Booth, Dec 74.</climb><climb
        grade="15" length="25m" name="Antagonist" number="3."
        stars="*"> Start 4m right of Cordon Bleu. Jam and bridge through small roof, then straight up to block belay. R.Lassman, N.Booth, Jan 75.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="11" length="27m" name="Pandora" new="false"
        number="4."
        stars=""> Start 10m right of Antagonist. Climb the wall for 7m then climb the crack for 7m then chimney the remainder. R.Lassman, N.Booth, Dec 74.</climb><climb
        grade="16" length="22m" name="Rose Ramble" number="5."
        stars="*"> Start Just right of Pandora, on the left fringe of the pink rock. Climb the right tending grove on the left fringe on the pink rock, continue directly when this expires.</climb><climb
        grade="13" length="25m" name="Artemus" number="6."
        stars="**"> Start 7m right of Rose Ramble. Up orange coloured and slightly lichenous chimney then follow twin cracks to top. R.Lassman, N.Booth, K.McConnell, Jan 75.</climb><climb
        grade="16" length="25m" name="Road to Ruin" number="7."
        stars="**"> Climb the yellow face 2m right of Artemus to the foot of a thin crack. Above climb the prominent corner in the upper part of the cliff.</climb><climb
        grade="12" length="25m" name="Ballyhoo" number="8."
        stars=""> A good line 10m right of Artemus. Straight forward wall climbing for 18m then finish just right of thin section at top. R.Lassman, N.Booth, K.McConnell, Jan 75.</climb><climb
        grade="16" length="12m" name="Lassie Come Home" number="9."
        stars=""> Under a prominent undercling in overlap 4 m right of Ballyhoo. Up to the undercling then onto the wall above.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="12m" name="First Impressions"
        new="false" number="10."
        stars="">Start 6m right of Lassie Come Home. Up the left facing corner with surprising difficulty.</climb><text
        class="heading3">Ocean Boulevard</text><text
        class="description">This is the convoluted area including the wall above the descent ramp to Lassie's Wall and extending around to the start of Deepwater Zawn. For the most part the routes are best approached by following the ramp down to Lassie's Wall.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="coles bay ocean boulevard.jpg" width=""/><climb grade="17"
        length="20m" name="Possible" number="1."
        stars="*"> Follow the wide ramp leading down to Lassie's Wall. On the left on the first cliff of a reasonable size, is an overhang. Pull and chin up just right of this to gain the short wall above. Up wall to the jam crack, move right and up (the obvious direct finish went at 21 to Smith and McMahon, 1989). C.Rathbone, M.Stewart, B.Burton, May 80.</climb><climb
        grade="14" length="25m" name="Robdec" number="2."
        stars="*"> Start 25m right of Possible. Up the middle of a buttress, through blocks near the top, to finish up corner, exposed, very good. Rob de Cesare, Doug Fife, Jun 80.</climb><climb
        grade="16" length="25m" name="Drugless" number="3."
        stars=""> The overhanging corner to the right of Robdec (looks extreme). Climb the left hand face of the corner. Doug Fife, Rob de Cesare, Jun 80.</climb><climb
        grade="17" length="150m" name="Ultima Thule" number="4."
        stars=""> A traverse which starts near the bottom of the ramp which leads down above Square Zawn and finish as for Beowulf. Robert McMahon, Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling, 1981.</climb><climb
        grade="17" length="15m" name="Dumper" number="5."
        stars=""> Climb the left hand of two likely lines at the base of the ramp to a ledge at 10m. Continue up face above. Robert McMahon, Nick Deka, Neale Smith, Mick Ling, 1981.</climb><climb
        grade="18" length="15m" name="Great Southern Ocean" number="6."
        stars="*"> The climb takes a thin blind crack up the slab a couple of metres to the right of Dumper and continues up a shallow corner above. Nick Deka, Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="Þ" grade="26" length="10m" name="Gubernaculum"
        new="false" number="7." stars="***"
        value="The very thin, bolted face 3m left of Ballet. John Fisher, Apr 94."> The very thin, bolted face 3m left of Ballet. John Fisher, Apr 94.</climb><climb
        grade="22" length="10m" name="Ballet" number="8."
        stars="**"> A fine crack face line on the blank looking wall above the ramp leading down to Lassie's Wall. Traverse right from the ramp near sea level or abseil from above. Start off sloping ledge a few meteres right of Gubernaculum. Despite appearing thin the gear is, for the most part, good. D.Fife, L.Minami, Apr 83.</climb><text
        class="text"
        new="false">The next four climbs are probably best accessed at low tide or by abseil.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="25m" name="Gone With the Wind"
        new="false" number="9."
        stars=""> Just right of the 'arête' several metres right of Ballet at the left hand edge of the slab wall before Square Zawn. Climb just right of the arête to the wall and straight up. Nick Deka, F.Moon, 1981.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="8" length="30m" name="Daydreamer" new="false"
        number="10."
        stars="***"> Up obvious crack on the slab and the wall above, wherever you please. B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Feb 75.</climb><climb
        grade="15" length="15m" name="Seashell Corner" number="11."
        stars=""> Climb the corner at the right hand side of the slab. Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, 1981.</climb><climb
        grade="15" length="15m" name="Fishfinger" number="12."
        stars=""> In part a thin crack to the right of the slab. Nick Deka, Neale Smith, 1981.</climb><text
        class="heading3">Deepwater Zawn</text><text
        class="description">Otherwise known as Square Zawn. The area below the Harlequin Buttress descent ramp. All routes reached by abseil. The routes can be seen from various places along the descent ramp to Harlequin. It's best to work out your rap point from here.</text><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="coles bay deepwater zawn.jpg" width=""/><climb grade="21"
        length="12m" name="Sink or Swim" number="1."
        stars=""> Located on the extreme left of the southern wall this climb is a straight crack that starts at sealevel (there is no ledge). Climb the crack until it peters out at two-thirds height and step left onto the arete. Simon Parsons, 1982.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="25m" name="Deep Water" new="false"
        number="2."
        stars="***"> In the middle of the southern wall is a shallow chimney corner that leans to the right. Up this till it ends at 8m. Continue up the good cracks above and then slightly right and up over a bulge to finish on top of the tower just left of the steep gully. B.Maddison, R.McMahon, 1979.</climb><climb
        grade="16" length="25m" name="Aspro Pink" number="3."
        stars="*"> Takes the line between Deep Water and the gully on the right. B.Cameron, Robert McMahon, Neale Smith, 1982.</climb><climb
        grade="17" length="35m" name="Beowulf" number="4."
        stars="***"> On the right hand side of the block at the base of the southern wall. The climb goes off just right of the chimney corners through a pink wall and curves off to the right above the overhangs and onto the pocketed triangular wall above the cave. Finish by going straight up on the left and finish up a short corner. Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="25m" name="Creeping Death"
        new="false" number="5."
        stars="***"> Takes a line out through the cave under Beowolf. Abseil down to the ledge leading into the left of the cave, follow the ledge into the cave and set up a belay in the back left hand corner. Step bravely across the chasm and into the horizontal line. A weird down and up traverse follows this line out of the cave. Continue following the line upwards past strenuos lay backs to gain the jugs at the roof. Climb onto the small ledge and continue directly to the top, crossing Beowolf. The climbing and gear are excellent, and the exposure on a dark, windy day exhilerating. Marc Tierney, Andrew Bissett, Chris Welsch, 1998.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="20m" name="Cats Cradle" new="false"
        number="6."
        stars="">Abseil 20m into small zawn at bottom of access ramp to the right of enourmous boulder. Traverse left around the back of the zawn until jug wall is reached. Climb up to ramp. D.Hain, B.Kennedy, Jan 75.</climb><climb
        grade="22" length="15m"
        name="Dreaming of Creaming, Screaming White Horses" number=""
        stars="**"> Takes the dark overhanging corner which separates the inland and northern walls of Deepwater Zawn. Bridge with difficulty up the corner to a step left and then straight up. Neale Smith, Nick Deka, Mick Ling, 1983.</climb><climb
        grade="18" length="10m" name="Pincer Martin" number=""
        stars=""> The left leaning diagonal crack on the northern wall of the zawn. Up the crack to an awkward step to finish. Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979.</climb><climb
        grade="20" length="12m" name="Spackbinder" number=""
        stars=""> Strenuous. The straight, thin crack just right of Pincer Martin which finishes to the left of the big block. Ben Maddison, Robert McMahon, 1979.</climb><climb
        grade="12" length="12m" name="Fruit Cat" number=""
        stars=""> The climb takes the line directly underneath the big jumping block. Jim Duff, Robert McMahon, 1980.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" guide.action="submit" guide.id="43"
        guide.page="0" guide.type="climb" length="15m"
        name="Harpic Bliss" new="false" number="" stars=""
        value="A classic off-width up the middle right of the beautiful white face behind the southern side of the bouldering area near Deepwater Zawn.  Good rock.  If you like tackling off-widths, then this is a pretty nice climb.  Marcel and Hamish Jackson and Steve Bray, late nineties.&lt;br/>">A classic off-width up the middle right of the beautiful white face behind the southern side of the bouldering area near Deepwater Zawn.  Good rock.  If you like tackling off-widths, then this is a pretty nice climb.  Marcel and Hamish Jackson and Steve Bray, late nineties.
</climb><text
        class="heading2" new="false"
        number="null.">Harlequin Buttress</text><text class="text"
        new="false">The northern of the two descent ramps. Harlequin Buttress is reached by following the old road track south along the top of the cliff for approximately 150m past where the road first meets the cliff top above White Water Wall. A rough track and some steps can then be followed down and north along a ramp to the bottom of the buttress. Harlequin Buttress provides some of the steepest and best climbing on the coastal cliffs. The climbs are described from left to right (the order in which they are encountered). Descent from many of the climbs has been made very easy by the installation of a rap station at the top of Harlequin. A single 50m rope can be used to rap to the block at the base of Beaman's Route, two ropes are needed to rap down Heat of the Night or to the base of Harlequin. Be careful.</text><text
        class="Discussion">There is a wall above the descent ramp to Harlequin Buttress with some short problems on it.</text><climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="10m" name="Lunge or Plunge"
        new="false" number=""
        stars=""> At the left hand edge of the overhangs below a short corner. Surmount the roof on insecure holds before a dyno to a flake in the corner, straight up. D.Stephenson, N.Deka, 1989.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="20m" name="The Lone Gunman"
        new="false" number=""
        stars=""> Start halfway through the overhangs on the ramp leading to Harlequin about 5m right of Lunge or Plunge. Continue up right to a nice crack in the middle of a 4m wide slab. J.Anderson, J.Nermut, 1997.</climb><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="coles bay beamans.jpg" width="600"/><climb grade="9"
        length="40m" name="Crayfish Crack" number="3."
        stars=""> At the bottom of the Harlequin ramp an easy broken wall meets a steeper wall with a roof at about 15m. An obvious corner line divides these. Climb 12m to the first roof then traverse easily to the bottom of the next corner. Continue up the crack to the next roof then traverse left to finish up steep nose. G.Kowalik, G.Holloway, Feb 76.</climb><climb
        grade="22" length="45m" name="Sweet Revenge" number="4."
        stars="***">Start as for Crayfish Crack. 1) 30m. Climb that for 12m to the first roof then traverse right, moving up to undercling then further right to jam up the flake and off right to belay. Traverse right to the bolts above Harlequin, or 2) 15m. Up the chimney then traverse out under the roof. Much better than it looks according to Neale. Neale Smith, Ben Maddison, Jan 82</climb><climb
        grade="22" length="55m" name="Beaman's Route" number="5."
        stars="*">Start as for Crayfish Crack. 1) 30m. Climb that for 12m to the roof then traverse right, moving down and across. Steep finger and hand crack lead to belay. Again, escape via Harlequin or 2) 25m. Climb left under roof to beneath off-width then up this and corner to top. T.Beaman, B.Kennedy, Jan 77.</climb><climb
        grade="22" length="45m" name="Beaman's Route Direct" number="6."
        stars="***">Begin on the tilted block directly below the finger hand flake of the original 1) 20m. Off the block via a bolt runner, aiming for the base of the flake, which is followed as for the original version. 2) 25m. As for original. Phil Bigg.</climb><climb
        grade="22" length="35m" name="Breakout" number="7."
        stars=""> This climb originally started up Harlequin, before traversing left after 10m to finish up Beaman's Route. The addition of a bolt now facilitates a direct start from the block left of Harlequin. A top rope problem also exists continuing straight up to the Harlequin belay, but staying left of the aforementioned climb, instead of traversing left. Simon Parsons, Doug Fife, 1982.</climb><image
        new="false" noPrint="false" number="null."
        src="coles bay harlequin.jpg" width=""/><climb extra=""
        grade="18" length="35m" name="Harlequin" new="false" number="8."
        stars="***">A grouse climb, sustained and varied. Start 30m right of Crayfish Crack at the RH end of the wall up a v-corner. Climb the crack (hands/thin-hands/hands), then straight up the overhanging wall on good holds. Continue up the thin crack then climb the slab to belay ledge. A DBB exists above the ledge. D.Hain, S.Anderson, B.Kennedy, Jan 75.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24/26" length="10m" name="The Only Fruit"
        new="false" number="8A."
        stars=""> Climbs the hanging arête from the ledge of the Harlequin rap bolts. Step left over the void and continue with difficulty to the top. It's possible to avoid the top difficulties by climbing left of the intended line. A single bolt exists as a belay. Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge, 1997.</climb><climb
        grade="24" length="40m" name="Harlequin Variant" number="9."
        stars="*"> Climb Harlequin for 4m, undercling out right, then climb thin wall above. Protection is adequate, but must be placed blindly on the traverse. RP's protect the climbing above. Kim Carrigan, Simon Parsons, 1982.</climb><climb
        grade="24" length="35m" name="Heat of the Night" number="10."
        stars="**"> On the overhung buttress immediately right of Harlequin. A 4m long 45o crack followed by a highly technical layback groove. After gaining the ledge continue to the abseil anchors on Harlequin, taking note at of the length of this climb. Well protected, even though a little fiddly above the lip. R.Staszewski, Phil Bigg, Dec 80.</climb><climb
        grade="27" length="35m" name="Granite Planet" number="11."
        stars="**"> The line through the roof right of Heat of the Night with a u-bolt. A hard start gives way to an entertaining middle and a hard finish. When the going eases make your way to the rap bolts above Harlequin. Bob Carr, 1989.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="20m" name="Hot Spot" new="false"
        number="12."
        stars="">Start on a boulder in the cave and traverse 7m through a roof to reach the lip at a climbable point. Strenuous moves through the lip lead back right to a difficult shallow bridging groove. R.Staszewski, P.Bigg, Dec 80.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="35m" name="Sing of the Wingers"
        new="false" number="13."
        stars=""> Right of Granite Planet are two parallel cracks leading over the roof. Follow the left hand crack over the roof to a difficult move gaining the face above and RP protection. Continue up the arete left of the open corner of Hot Spot, to cracks above leading up left to the Harlequin belay. Nick Hancock, Oct 00.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="24" length="35m" name="King of the Swingers"
        new="false" number="14."
        stars=""> Take the right hand crack over the roof to a crux gaining the sloping ledge below the open groove of Hot Spot. Follow the right arete with sparse protection and cracks above trending leftwards to the Harlequin belay. Nick Hancock, Dave Gray, Jun 00.</climb><climb
        grade="16" length="35m" name="Ice Nine" number="15."
        stars="**">Starts at a large boulder below a big bottomless corner 5m right of Hot Spot. 1) 18m. Climb the corner and groove to a large ledge. 2) 17m. Move slightly left and climb crack. Move right at the shallow scoop at the top. 2) Alternative: Up the same crack until you can traverse left across slab to Harlequin ledge, and the abseil anchors. B. Kennedy, D. Hain, Jan 75.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="23" length="10m" name="Kettle Chips" new="false"
        number="16."
        stars=""> Start just left of Al's Jump at the bottomless short corner. Up this to eventually join Ice Nine. Kim Robinson, Al Williams, 1999.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="35m" name="Al's Jump" new="false"
        number="17."
        stars=""> Just right of the start to Ice Nine is a bit of gap with a jug at the other side. Jump for this, then mantle up. Follow your nose to the top of the crag. Al Williams, 2000.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="31m" name="Bokonon" new="false"
        number="18."
        stars="**">This climb is to the right of Ice Nine. Start at the base of the obvious shallow groove in the nose of the buttress right of Harlequin. 1) 18m. After an awkward start, climb the groove to a large ledge. 2) 13m. Climb the obvious open book corner. B.Kennedy, D.Hain, Jan 75.</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="60m" name="The Parting of the Ways"
        new="false" number="19." stars="">Starts immediately left of the only point where the sea reaches the cliff. 1) 35m. Climb up steeply right to a ledge. Step up two thin, flaring cracks and climb the left one to easier ground. Follow the line up and right to a shallow corner. Up left to a good ledge. 2) 25m. Easily up blocks and cracks moving left to the top. Chris Baxter, M.Martin, 1983.</climb>

</guide>