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Guide
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<guide><header
        ><header access="From the Sisters Beach township drive eastwards along the dirt road that runs parallel to the beach. This ends after about 1.5 km at a parking area (GPS SIS000). Start by following the signposted track for about 100m, then bear off to the L where a rough track leads around towards the cliffs (about 500m). The first cliff, Fly Buttress, faces out to sea while Corruption Wall, out of sight on the other side of the spur is running down to Breakneck Point, is best reached via a small notch, the Keyhole, on the R about 50m  before Fly Buttress. Scramble through (with difficulty!) and bear R and down to the end of the cliff. There is no legal camping at Sisters Beach although several possible sites exist. The camp ground at Boat Harbour is quite good but is about 10 km away."         acknowledgement="by Roger Parkyn, originally published in Craglets 6. Updated by Tony McKenny, with acknowledgements to previous work by John Fisher."         history="Briefly, the history of climbing here began when locals Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams and Tony McKenny cleaned up most of the traditional lines, with Deka demonstrating the art of flying from Super Fly in particular. This route is possibly one of the biggest adrenalin charges for its grade in the state and is a must do for every visitor. Other contributors included Mick Ling, Robert (Bird) Hamilton, Hobartian Sam Edwards and interstate visitor Robert Staszewski. In the early nineties John Fisher scruffed the scene and produced a series of steep, hard and 'interestingly' named sports climbs on Corruption Wall. Unfortunately the anchors placed by John became badly corroded within a year of so of their placement and had to be replaced. Local Andrew Arnold has now fully rebolted the climbs in question and all the climbs, on both cliffs, now have a DBB at the top. The trad routes are still there of course, although a couple have been retro-bolted (a trend that hopefully will not continue!)."         intro="The main cliffs at Sisters Beach at the east end of the Rocky Cape National Park are well worth visiting. The cliff area is small but the quality of the quartzite rock and routes is superb. There are two main cliffs, close together but quite different in character and in the style of climbing. The north facing Fly Buttress is short, solid and bristling with horizontal roofs, while the Corruption Wall on the other side of Breakneck Point is formed by steep or gently overhanging walls. The proximity to the sea does also mean that the smooth quartzite can get more than a little slippery, adding a further charge of excitement to the climbing. The nearby beach, however, is excellent - a good diversion from cranking when your tips are raw or your ego in danger of being compromised."         name="Sisters Beach" new="false" rock="15m steep quartzite"         sun="Mixed sun and shade" walk="10 min" id="1"/><gps newid="true2"><point             code="SIS000" description="Sisters Beach - car park"             easting="381013" height="0" northing="5469569"         zone="55G"/></gps><image new="false" noPrint="false"         number="null." src="sisters beach map.png" width="" id="3"/><text         class="heading2" newid="false"
        number="null."4">Carpark Buttress</text><text class="text"         newid="false"
        number="null."5">This crag is on the hillside above the carpark and to the R of the walking track.</text><climb         extra="" grade="20" length="15m" name="Nose Route" newnumber="false"         numberstars="*" id="6" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 29    stars="*"Apr 1981.">Line just L of the nose of the buttress. Strenuous.  Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 29/4/81.</climb><text         class="heading2" newid="false"
        number="null."7">Fly Buttress</text><text class="text" newid="false"
        value="The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka in the late seventies. The only notable exceptions are R.Starzewski's ascent of Sunshine and S.Edwards's Wuss 'n Boots."8">The topo basically says it all. Pretty much all the routes were done by Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Tony McKenny and Nick Williams in the late seventies. The notable exceptions are Robert Staszewski's ascent of Sunshine (23) and Sam Edwards' Wuss 'n' Boots (22). All climbs now have a DBB at the top, and there is a somewhat dodgy looking (but now superfluous) abseil chain above Superfly as well.</text><image         new="false" noPrint="false" src="sister fly wall.jpg"         width="" id="9"/><climb extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Blown"         new="false" number="1."         stars="">Groove L of roof. id="10" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb">Groove L of roof.      </climb><climb extra="" grade="22" length="" name="Wuss 'n'  Boots" new="false"
        number="2."         stars="*" id="11" fa="Sam Edwards.">Just to the R, through the roof. Sam Edwards.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="18" length="" name="March Fly" newnumber="false3."         number="3."
        stars="*"stars="*" id="12" fa="Dennis Kearnes 1992.">Starts up Mortein then goes L. Dennis Kearnes 1992.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Mortein" newnumber="false4."         number="4."
        stars=""stars="" id="13" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith.">Groove to roof, then L line. Nic Deka, Neale Smith.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="17" length="" name="Superfly (the Movie)"         new="false" number="5."
        stars="***"number="5." stars="***" id="14" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Up the groove/crack below the middle of the big roof, then follow R line through roof. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Try, Fly or Die" new="false"
        number="6."         stars="*">Traverse R under roof. id="15" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><climb">Traverse R under roof.      </climb><climb extra="" grade="23" length="" name="Sunshine" newnumber="false7."         number="7."
        stars="**"stars="**" id="16" fa="Robert Stazsewski, Tony McKenny.">Through roofs to R. Originally led on gear, but now sporting a couple of bolts on the first roof. Robert Stazsewski, Tony McKenny.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Pigs Can Fly" new="false"
        number="8."         stars="">Next crack, going L at top and finishing beside Sunshine.  id="17" fa="Nick Williams and Tony McKenny (originally with one point of aid), FFA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 1980.</climb><climb
        ">Next crack, going L at top and finishing beside Sunshine. </climb><climb extra="" grade="8" length="" name="Fly Paper" newnumber="false9."         number="9."
        stars="stars="" id="18" fa="Tony McKenny.">Broken wall R of main cliff. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="7" length="" name="Fly Blows Aunt" newnumber="false10."         number="10."
        stars=""stars="" id="19" fa="Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.">Crack to the R of Uncle. Tony
McKenny and Nick Williams.
</climb><climb         extra="" grade="" length="7" name="Fly Blows Uncle" new="false"
        number="11."         stars="">The dirty corner. id="20" fa="Tony McKenny and Nick Williams.">The dirty corner. </climb><climb         extra="" grade="11" length="" name="Son of Superfly (Maggot)"         new="false" number="12."         stars="*">Crack.  id="21" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Crack. </climb><climb         extra="" grade="12" length="" name="Midge" newnumber="false13."         number="13."
        stars="stars="" id="22" fa="Tony McKenny.">Short wall to the R and then over small overhang. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="16" length="" name="Fly Arete" newnumber="false14."         number="14."
        stars=""stars="" id="23" fa="Neale Smith, Nick Williams.">Arête  and wall R of Midge. Neale Smith, Nick Williams.</climb><text         class="heading3" newid="false"
        number="null."24">The Keyhole</text><text class="text" newid="false"
        number="null."25">To find The Keyhole … as you walk into the crag, Bass Strait is on your L (ie walking east).  You can approach Corruption Wall (Dogs Coif etc) by following a path with the rock on your R (Sunshine etc) and the sea on your L and going "up and over" to get to the cave.
Alternatively, when you approach the main block you can veer R and walk up to what is called the Keyhole.  It consists of a short ramp up to a large chock stone with a human-sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the crag.  From there you take a L  (keeping the rock face on your L) and a short walk back down to the overhanging midden cave (Dogs Coif again). There are two climbs on the R, just before you enter the Keyhole.</text><climb         extra="" grade="16" length="10m" name="Battle on New Years Eve"         new="false" number=""
        stars="*"number="" stars="*" id="26" fa="Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold ">The climb takes the obvious overhanging arête (approx 10m high) on the block to your R as you walk up the ramp to the Keyhole. Natural gear (take a variety of cams - the pro is surprisingly bomber). Andrew
Chang, Andrew Arnold 
</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="21" length="10m" name="Gap Filler" newnumber="false" stars="*" id="27" fa="Neale Smith, Mick Ling, Oct  number=""
        stars="*"1982. Subsequently retro-bolted by mistake by Andrew Chang and Andrew Arnold in 2005.">Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the ridge to Corruption Wall. Subsequently retro-bolted by mistake by Andrew Chang and Andrew Arnold in 2005. Three bolts to DBB. Neale Smith, Mick Ling, Oct. 1982.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="19" length="" name="Bulging Balls" newnumber="false"         numberstars="" id="28" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 17    stars=""Apr 1982.">About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. Nic Deka, Neale Smith, 17/4/82.</climb><text         class="heading3" newid="false"
        number="null."29">Seaside Buttress</text><text class="text"         newid="false"
        number="null."30">The small buttress in front of Fly Buttress by the sea, split by a deep gully. The climbs are on the steep walls either side.</text><climb         extra="" grade="17" length=" " name="Ling's Wall" newnumber="false"         numberstars="" id="31" fa="Tony McKenny,       stars=""Mick Ling.">Wall L of gully. Tony McKenny, Mick Ling.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="12" length=" " name="Bird's Corner" newnumber="false"         numberstars="" id="32" fa=" Robert Hamilton,      stars=""Fred Dutton.">Corner on west side of buttress. Robert Hamilton, Fred Dutton.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Right Hand Corner"         newnumber="false" numberstars="" starsid="33">Mick fa="Mick Ling.<"></climb><climb extra=""         grade="19" length=" " name="Staszewski's Crack" newnumber="false"         numberstars="" id="34" fa="Robert Staszewski, Tony      stars=""McKenny 1981.">Crack splitting wall R of large gully and on the front of the buttress. Robert Staszewski, Tony McKenny 1981.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Blow Job" newnumber="false"         numberstars=""         starsid="35">On western face of buttress.  fa="Nic Deka, Bruce Cameron, Neale Smith.</climb><climb">On western face of buttress. </climb><climb    extra="" grade="13" length=" " name="Hand Job" newnumber="false"         numberstars=""         starsid="36">Next route R.  fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith, Robert Hamilton 12/4/82., Apr 1982.">Next route R. </climb><climb         extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Easy Ramp Route"         newnumber="" stars="false" numberid="37" fa="Robert Hamilton, Nic Deka, Neale Smith 12 Apr stars=1982."">Easy ramp on RH side of buttress. Robert Hamilton, Nic Deka, Neale Smith 12/4/82.</climb><text         class="heading2" newid="false"
        number="null."38">Corruption Wall</text><text class="text"         newid="false39">This was briefly a centre for Tasmanian sport climbing (yeah, I know, doesn't say much does it?). The routes added by John Fisher are brilliant - and user friendly too. Fixed hangers are de rigueur and all  routes have rap anchors at the top. You can also walk off down a steep gully to the R (N) of the cliff, by "A Butcher's Dog".</text><image         new="false" noPrint="false" src="sisters corruption.jpg"         width="" id="40"/><climb extra="" grade="14" length=""         name="Carnal Knowledge" newnumber="false" numberstars=""         stars="id="41" fa="Robert Hamilton.">From an ascending grassy ramp, follow a clean cut lay-back crack. Bear R at the top. Robert Hamilton.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="10"         name="Fourplay">The chimney.  id="42" fa="Tony McKenny.">The chimney. </climb><climb         extra="" grade="24" length="" name="Roll on Responsibility"         new="false" number=""
        stars="**"number="" stars="**" id="43" fa="Nic Deka, Neale Smith 1987.">Sustained overhanging crack up wall to R of Fourplay. A local test piece. Nic Deka, Neale Smith 1987.</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="24" length="20m" name="Sister Superior"         new="false" number=""
        stars="**"number="" stars="**" id="44" fa="Nick Hancock and  Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.">Climb the steep wall just right of  Roll on Responsibility, on good holds. 4 bolts to DBB.
Nick Hancock and  Andrew Geeves.  Nov, 2006. 
</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="25" length=""         name="The Purple Veined Junket Pumper" new="false" number=""         stars="***"         value="Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top. id="45" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Start near The Winking Sausage. The crux is between the second and third bolts but the pump continues all the way to the top. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="24" length="" name="The Winking Sausage"         new="false" number="1." stars="***"         value="Another pumper. Use a #2 friend on the way to the first bolt. Another #2 can be used after the third bolt. id="46" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Another pumper. Use a #2 friend on the way to the first bolt. Another #2 can be used after the third bolt. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="22" length="" name="Rhythm Rude Girl"         new="false" number="2." stars="***"         value="Yes this one is pumpy too. A cammer can be placed in a horizontal break before the first bolt. id="47" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Yes this one is pumpy too. A cammer can be placed in a horizontal break before the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="18" length="" name="The Rapist" new="false"
        number="3."         stars="*" id="48" fa="Tony McKenny.">Climbs the overhanging crack in the corner. Tony McKenny.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Happy Hooker" newnumber="false4."         number="4."
        stars="stars="" id="49" fa="Mick Ling.">Follow the thin crack in the wall right of The Rapist then traverse right to join the top crack of Nubile Nymph. Mick Ling.</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="19" length="" name="Lazy Lob" new="false"
        number="5." stars="**"         value="Steep and cranky. Four bolts plus a few cammers in horizontal breaks. id="50" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Steep and cranky. Four bolts plus a few cammers in horizontal breaks. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="25" length=""         name="The Crimson Tipped Crumpet Plunger" new="false"
        number="6." stars="**"         value="Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep. Take a few small cammers for the easy ground at the top. id="51" fa="John Fisher, 1992">Tweekier than the other hard routes here but not as steep. Take a few small cammers for the easy ground at the top. John Fisher, 1992<</climb><climb         extra="" grade="15" length="" name="Nubile Nymph" new="false"
        number="7."         stars="*" id="52" fa="N.Williams.">Lay-back the clean-cut crack. N.Williams.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="14" length="" name="Gornuphere" new="false"
        number="8." stars="" id="53">The easy line.</climb><climb extra=""         grade="14" length="" name="Puberty Rites" new="false"
        number="9."         stars="**" id="54" fa="N.Williams.">Climb the corner. An excellent and varied pitch. N.Williams.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="14" length="" name="The Slit" newnumber="false10."         number="10."
        stars="stars="" id="55" fa="Neale Smith.">The right wall, with many horizontal joints, is split by a deep groove. Follow this to the tree. Neal Smith.</climb><climb         extra="6B" grade="15" length="" name="Condom Power" new="false"
        number="11." stars="**"         value="Now an excellent beginners clip-up. Six bolts. Re-bolted and renamed id="56" fa="Tony McKenny. Retro-bolted by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. Tony (condom power) McKenny.">Great climbing on the wall L of the Dog Wall. Now an excellent beginners clip-up. Six bolts and DBB. Retro-bolted by John (Hilti-man) Fisher. Yes, I know, it was a very naughty thing to do. He deserves a jolly good spanking. Tony (condom power) McKenny.</climb><text         class="heading3" newid="false"
        number="null."57">Dog Wall</text><image new="false" noPrint="false"         src="DogWall.jpg" width="" id="58"/><climb extra="Þ" grade="27"         length="" name="The Dog's Coif" new="false" number="1."         stars="***"         value="Independent, and just right of, the arete. id="59" fa=" John Fisher, Dec/93 1993.">Independent, and just right of, the arête. John Fisher. Dec, 1993.</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="26" length="" name="Dog's Knob" new="false"
        number="2." stars="***"         value="Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it. id="60" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">Way steep. A magnificent line. The climb was originally bolted by Simon Mentz who then didn't have time to work it. Use a nut below the first bolt. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><climb         extra="Þ" grade="25" length="" name="The Butcher's Dog"         new="false" number="3." stars="***"         value="Another steep test-piece from the dude with the Hilti. id="61" fa="John Fisher, 1992.">The RH line. Another steep test-piece from the dude with the Hilti. John Fisher, 1992.</climb><text         class="heading2" newid="false"
        number="null."62">Eastern Cove</text><text class="text"         newid="false63">Two lines have been added on the eastern cliffs, on the other side of the valley from Corruption Wall, and there is probably scope for more in the area if you are willing to walk. </text><climb         extra="" grade="15" length=" " name="Metamorphosis" newnumber="false"         numberstars="" id="64" fa="Tony McKenny,       stars=""Nick Williams.">Steep crack and small roof on the largest face of this cliff. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.</climb><climb         extra="" grade="10" length=" " name="Hard Cheddar" newnumber="false"         numberstars="" id="65" fa="Tony McKenny,       stars=""Nick Williams.">Slab then wall to R. Tony McKenny, Nick Williams.</climb><text         class="heading2" newid="false66">West End</text><text class="text"         newid="false67">From the west end of Sisters Beach, scramble north west from the boat ramp for ten minutes, passing some slabby smooth sections, to a squat semi-detached pinnacle about 20 metres high, with a very overhanging northwest face. 
</text><climb         extra="Þ" grade="23" length="20m" name="Cape Crusader"         new="false" number=""
        stars="***"number="" stars="***" id="68" fa="Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves, Nov 2006.">Climb steeply on great holds and solid rock to a rest beneath a horizontal roof. Swing out madly to a flared jam and up to a DBB on the very lip of the roof. 6 bolts. Nick Hancock and Andrew Geeves. Nov, 2006. 
</climb><text         class="heading2" newid="false69">Lee-Archer Cave</text><text         class="text"         newid="false70">Take the track from the carpark at the west end of Sisters Beach, signposted to Lee-Archer Cave and Anniversary Bay</text><climb         extra="" grade="17" length="35m" name="Necropolis" newnumber="false" stars="" id="71" fa="M. and H. Jackson, Dec  number="" stars=""1992.">Starting just to the R of the cave, climb to the bush at about 5m. Continue directly up the centre of the slightly overhung, diamond shaped face on okay pro in less than okay rock. A sloping ramp in an exposed position leads rather scarily to a bush at top. M. and H. Jackson, Dec. 1992.</climb></guide>