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Guide
<guide>
  <header id="1" name="Cluan Tiers" walk="15-30 min" rock="Dolerite and Sandstone, mostly single pitch sport routes, but up to 85m high" acknowledgement="By Gerry Narkowicz" intro="The Cluan Tiers are a range of hills near the town of Westbury in Northern Tasmania. On the western side facing the Liffey Valley, is a substantial dolerite escarpment about 2km long and up to 90m high, but only two of the faces have been deemed worthy of climbing. The cliff is unusual for dolerite as it is generally void of cracks, and forms overhanging blocky faces with big roofs. Consequently the crag has been developed as a sport climbing area. The nature of the rock lends itself to steep, difficult climbing, and the main wall in particular, is quite intimidating. The cliff faces south-west and does not see sunlight until well into the afternoon, making it an ideal summer crag. Climbers should come prepared for cold weather as it is an alpine area subject to the full force of westerly weather. The views to the western tiers are glorious, making it a spectacular location for climbing.   Whiskey Jim Hill is a sandstone crag above the Liffey Valley up to 50m high and with some sections of good quality rock. It features the steepest crack climb in Tasmania, the incredible Whiskey Jim Crack (25) which climbs a splitter crack through a 9m stepped roof on excellent rock. Potential is limited though there is alot of rock, many of the faces are blank and featureless or just choss. " access="See the map and gps points below for access. From Launceston travel to Westbury and continue another 9km on the old highway to Exton. Turn left at Exton onto C502, signposted Quamby Brook and Golden Valley. Continue straight ahead at the crossroads after 4km. About 3km later is a gravel road on the left signposted to the Cluan Tier. From here it is 16km on logging roads to the cliff. Follow the main Cluan Tier Road and after about 12km is a crossroads.  For Cluan Tiers Crag take the road on the right which goes steeply up a hill. At the top of the hill, keep following the main road and take left hand turns at the two intersections you come across. Park at the boom gate and it is about 30 mins walk from here. The road passes underneath a powerline and curves around to meet the powerline again about 1km further. There is a powerline easement marked by a cairn on the left. Follow the powerline easement up the hill for 10 minutes to the top of the cliff. After some easy bashing through a grove of ferns for about 100m, there is a good gravel track up the easement. At the powerpole closest to the cliff edge, turn left and follow a rough path for 50m to the descent gully marked by a cairn. A short descent gully leads to the first cliff amphitheatre while the main cliff is about 100m further around to the right. For Whiskey Jim Hill keep going at the crossroads at 12km, and follow the road to the parking area marked on the map, and the short 15min walk to the cliff. " history="Climbers have probably been aware of these cliffs for years, being obvious from the road to Liffey Falls. Gerry Narkowicz scrub bashed up the hill from the western side in May 2006 and realised the potential of the cliff. He made the first climbing trip to the area with Nick Hancock in October 2006 and two routes were climbed and another three projects were bolted over three days. Whiskey Jim Hill was developed starting in 2008."/>
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  <text id="3" class="heading2">Cluan Tiers Crag</text>
  <text id="20" class="heading3">Ampitheatre Area</text>
  <climb id="10" stars="*" number="1." name="Clue Crux Clan" length="20m" grade="26" extra="Þ" fa="Nick Hancock, Dec 2006">The first route on the far LHS of the amphitheatre at the bottom of the descent gully. Nice grade 23 climbing up to the roof, then a desperate boulder problem over the lip of the overhang.</climb>
  <climb id="11" stars="**" number="2." name="The Ruin Of The Cluan" length="45m" grade="23" extra="Þ" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Nick Hancock, Nov 2006.">Climbs the big corner below the roof in the centre of the cliff, then joins Cryptic Clue for 2 bolts before heading diagonally, and spectacularly L out to the arête of the buttress. Best done in 2 pitches. Take 13 draws. 1. 25m 21. Climb easily up the face to the start of the very steep corner below the overhang. A terrific bit of climbing using chimney and bridging techniques up the corner. Step R at the roof to a double bolt belay on a small ledge. 2. 20m 23. Up the corner on the RHS of the main roof to a stance below another overhang. Head L and overcome the blank hanging slab by a huge reach to a jug (crux). Continue up the L-trending overlap towards the arête, and when the holds run out, turn the small roof of the overlap with a long reach from underclings to a jug over the roof. Finish up the arête. Belay to single FH and glue-in bolt about 3m to L. Descend by abseil from the glue-in anchors to the L and rig slings over the edge. Double ropes necessary.</climb>
  <climb id="12" stars="***" number="3." name="Cryptic Clue" length="45m" grade="22" extra="18Þ" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2006.">Starts in a shallow groove about 5m R of the previous route. Some thought provoking and very nice climbing up the groove and face leads to a cruxy section going through the overlaps about a third of the way up, to gain a small ledge. There is a double bolt belay here for The Ruin Of The Cluan, but unnecessary for this route. Up the corner above the RH side of the big roof to a stance below another roof, then step R into the fantastic overhanging flake/crack. Strenuously up this to a comfortable stance, before heading R out to the arête in a very spacy position. Up the arête using a layback crack on the R (about grade 17) to the top. Anchors set slightly back from the edge for belaying, but no good for abseiling. Use the anchors 5m to the R and put slings over the edge. Double ropes necessary.</climb>
  <climb id="13" stars="*" number="4." name="Blues Clues" length="45m" grade="21" extra="16Þ" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Jun 2006.">The next line R, taking the line of bolts up the centre of the easy angled face. Some nice grade 17 face climbing to half height after which the route steepens, with a tricky move through a small roof. The crux is moving up from a pedestal and overcoming a blank section to gain the top corner. The top corner groove has a couple of cruxy moves and keeps you gripped all the way to the anchors. Lower-off, but double ropes necessary.16 bolts. The first route established at the Cluan Tiers</climb>
  <text id="21" class="heading3">Pinnacle Area</text>
  <text id="14">In front of the amphitheatre is a large pinnacle, vegetated on one side but with a steep face on the western side.</text>
  <climb id="1529" stars="***" extra="6b" number="5" name="George Clueney" length="10m" grade="22" fa="Gerry Narkowicz October 2017">In the gap between the main cliff and the pinnacle is a short precise corner with a small roof near the top. Very technical bridging problem</climb>
  <climb id="30" stars="*" extra="8b" number="6" name="Cluemidia" length="12m" grade="21" fa="Gerry Narkowicz November 6th 2017">On the edge of the pinnacle just right of the start of Clued Up. Good climbing with spanning between the two edges and little for the feet. Turn the roof then the nice technical slab to finish.</climb>
  <climb id="15" stars="***" number="7" name="Clued Up" length="25m" grade="25" extra="Þ" fa="Nick Hancock, Mar 2007.">An outrageous looking line taking a rising leftwards traverse underneath the roofs on very small holds before turning the roof out near the arête, then up the final groove to the top. An amazing and spectacular route.</climb>
  <climb id="16" stars="***" number="6.8" name="Cluedo" length="25m" grade="23" extra="13Þ" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Oct 2006.">About 50m further R of the descent gully amphitheatre is a bolted line up a neat face beside a large eucalypt. Follows a beautiful natural line of features up the centre of the face with some superb, sustained face climbing. An intense, crimpy start for the first 4 bolts, then some nice moves on big holds leads to the crux between the 7th and 8th bolt. A powerful move to gain the stance below the hanging flake, then some funky layaways and heelhooking on the flake leads to a good rest. The next clipping stance is a bit precarious and nerve wracking – sorry about that. Easy up the face until a sting in the tail just below the anchors on some rounded laybacks with little for the feet. A classic.</climb>
  <text id="17">In front of the main wall is another large vegetated pinnacle. On the RH (north-west face) is an attractive, short steep wall.</text>
  <climb id="18" stars="*" number="7.9" name="A Clue or Two" length="16m" grade="18" extra="6Þ" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Jan 2007.">On the far LH side of the wall is a line of 6 bolts up a slightly overhanging wall. Positive handholds all the way with an exciting finish.</climb>
  <climb id="19" stars="**" number="8.10" name="Blue Suede Clues" length="18m" grade="22" extra="6Þ" fa="Gareth Llewellin, Jan 2007.">Up the centre of the face starting 5m R of the previous route. Climb steeply on some big features to a juggy, runout conclusion. A superb route.</climb>
  <climb id="31" stars="*" extra="6b" number="11" name="Cluening Around" length="15m" grade="23" fa="Isaac Lethborg 6th November 2017">Opposite the face with Blue Suede Clues is another small pinnacle with an obvious right trending groove. Strenuous entry into the corner followed by technical bridging in the corner.</climb>
  <text id="22" class="heading3">Main Wall</text>
  <climb id="23" stars="***" number="912." name="Inspector Clueso" length="25m" grade="24" extra="11Þ" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Mar 2007.">Climbs the left hand edge of the main wall and tackles some unlikely territory for the grade. Superb climbing. Start on the block up left and bridge across to clip the first bolt, or else stick clip. Step off the block high on the left onto the overhanging wall, then pull round right onto the face. Technical face climbing up to the big roof with a cruxy move moving right to gain the base of the roof. The wedged block in the roof sounds loose, but was beaten with a hammer and remained intact and is a vital hold at this point. Spectacular bridging at the roof in an amazing position, before traversing left to the arete to a good foothold and rest. Move up and left to gain big underclings and set up for the move over the next roof. Layback off the block on the lip, feet high and a crucial kneebar solve this problem. Continue up the corner with bridging moves before stepping left onto easier ground and up to the anchors. A fantastic climb.</climb>
  <climb id="24" stars="**" number="10.13" name="One Final Clue" length="26m" grade="27" extra="10Þ" fa="Nick Hancock, Mar 2007.">The hardest route so far at the crag, following a fantastic line up the face and through the big roof at the left hand side of the main wall. The second line in from the Left hand side of the main wall, starting at a thin layback seam up the wall. Sustained, technical and superb face climbing up to the roof. Contortionist techniques required to get through the roof, followed by a leftward rising traverse up the face. The crux is a strenuous and dynamic series of moves on poor holds just below the anchors.</climb>
  <climb id="25" stars="***" number="1114." name="Cluenatic" length="25m" grade="26" extra="13Þ" fa="Ingvar Lidman, Jan 2009.">Probably the classic of the cliff. Third route right from the LHS of the main wall. Superb face climbing (23) to the roof, followed by powerful and sensational moves through the big roof. Tenuous moves up the final corner and tricky traverse right to the anchors of the first pitch of Cluecified. Bolted and tried many times by Narkowicz, but surrendered to Ingvar Lidman in a moment of weakness.</climb>
  <climb id="26" stars="***" number="12.15" name="Cluecified" length="85m" grade="23" extra="Þ" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Mar 2007.">A 3 pitch, 85m climb, the only route which goes all the way to the top of the main wall. The first pitch is an exciting and unlikely traverse through the big roof, followed by a brilliant pitch of face climbing above the roof. The third pitch has two cruxy sections through a couple of small roofs with great moves. Take 17 draws. 1. 26m 21. Up the easy groove in the centre of the main wall for 10m, before the long traverse left above the big roof to gain the left slanting ramp. The crux is moving left past an overhang with nothing for the feet and big overhangs underneath, in an intimidating position. This pitch would be an excellent 21 to try as a one pitch route. Rap anchors at belay. 11 bolts. 2. 17m 23. A superb face climb. Layback up the steep flake off the belay, then traverse right to gain the weakness up the middle of the face. A sustained series of moves up the face with the crux just below the anchors. Belay on small ledge. 8 bolts. 3. 42m 23. Not a 3 star pitch like the first 2 pitches, but with some terrific and challenging moves nonetheless. Up the easy face just right of the belay (18) to the base of the small overhang. Surmount the roof strenuously to gain the hanging corner (crux) and continue up the line to the second roof. Bridge steeply to a position level with the second bolt in the roof, before traversing right onto the face (crux). Then straight up the wall to jugs, then back left to finish up the easy groove. Double bolt belay on the summit. 14 bolts.</climb>
  <climb id="27" stars="*" number="1316." name="Clueless" length="30m" grade="25" extra="9Þ" fa="Nick Hancock, Jun 2006.">The bolted route near the centre of the cliff. Tackles some steep territory with the crux going through the bulge after the second bolt. There is another tricky move going through the gap in the roof just below the anchors.</climb>
  <climb id="28" stars="**" number="1417." name="Wouldn’t Have A Clue" length="40m" grade="24" extra="18Þ" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Jan 2007.">On the far RH side of the cliff is a line of bolts up a corner/groove with black and white streaks. One tricky move (grade 20) between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, then straightforward climbing to the 7th bolt where the route steepens dramatically. Moving R and up the short blank corner is cruxy, then continue strenuously up the overhanging corner/groove to gain a small ledge. Traverse L under the roof in a spectacular position, then turn the roof on the L (cruxy) and continue with some difficulty to the anchors. An excellent route with some endurance required.</climb>
  <text id="5" class="heading2">Whiskey Jim Hill</text>
  <text id="6">Whiskey Jim Hill is a sandstone crag above the Liffey Valley up to 50m high and with some sections of good quality rock. It features the steepest crack climb in Tasmania, the incredible Whiskey Jim Crack (25) which climbs a splitter crack through a 9m stepped roof on excellent rock. Potential is limited though there is alot of rock, many of the faces are blank and featureless or just choss. Access is very easy; a 45 minute drive from Launceston and a 15 minute flat walk on a track, though very complicated to explain - see the map above. People wanting to visit this cliff should ring Gerry Narkowicz (0428 505259) for a guided tour, otherwise you are likely to get lost. It is quite close to the Cluan Tiers, so a visit to both cliffs would be possible on the same day. So far 2 routes have been done.</text>
  <climb id="7" name="The Wailing Wall" length="15m" grade="27" extra="Þ" fa="Nick Hancock 2008" stars="***">The bolted face climb at the far LHS of the cliff.</climb>
  <text id="9">To get to Whiskey Jim Crack from the end of the track do a 100m bush bash along cliff top to point opposite huge detached pillar (50m high). Rap from tree here and leave fixed rope, then walk 30m across to the right to Whiskey Jim Crack. Jumar out.</text>
  <climb id="8" name="Whiskey Jim Crack" length="20m" grade="25" fa="Gerry Narkowicz, Sep 2010." stars="***">Starts up an overhanging fist crack through a small roof for the first 10m. The crack then becomes splitter hand size but goes virtually 6m horizontal out to the lip. A hanging slab just before the lip gives some respite before tackling the crux, which is turning the lip and gaining the flared finger crack for the last 5m up the headwall. It opens up again to hands before the final offwidth slot. The lip is 15m off the ground, and a rope will hang 9m out from the base of the route. A unique crack climb in Tasmania. Gear: Wild Country Cams 3.5, 3, 4, 3, 2.5. Camalots 0.5, 1, 2, 3. FA:</climb>
</guide>