A new 3 pitch route has been bolted up to the ledge below the big roof at Fingal. It was done mainly as an access route to Supernaut (24) and other hard projects on the go, on the upper tier of the cliff. The route is fully bolted along with rap anchors, except for a short 15m section of trad gear where it links into Conan Macmorna for a bit. While not pretending to be a 3 star classic and done primarily for access to the upper tier, most of the route offers very good moderate climbing up to grade 19, despite two short manky sections. Combined with Supernaut (the best pitch at Fingal)it makes for 150m of good climbing. The route is likely to become popular in its own right as a moderate multi-pitch sport route. It is now possible to rap all the way down Supernaut and Tomorrows Dream via 4 abseils (double 60m ropes required)
Tomorrows Dream 100m 19 **
FA: Gerry Narkowicz and Andrew Martin. 23/10/10
More or less a direct line up the face to the big roof and bisecting Conan Macmorna at one stage. Start 20m right of Conan Macmorna. Pitch 1 (30m, 16). Delightful climbing up the black slab to a narrow ledge, then traverse right for 5m to the next line of bolts up a steeper slab to double bolt belay at apex of orange triangle of rock. 12 bolts. Pitch 2 (25m, 17) Climb the big diagonal of Conan Macmorna to the right for 15m with trad gear, to point opposite bolt on left face (1st manky section) Traverse left spectacularly via 2 bolts on small rail to middle of face, then straight up to belay at chains on big ledge. 2 bolts plus cams size 1-4 and long slings. Pitch 3 (45m, 19) Move belay 5m right to another double bolt belay. Lovely face moves up the next black face for 4 bolts, followed by a 10m section of mank up to the base of the amazing orange headwall. Superb face climbing (crux) up the orange wall on Arapiles like rock, to belay at chains on ledge below big roof. 13 bolts. Either rap from here (two raps to ground with double 60m ropes) or continue up to Supernaut. For Supernaut(24), traverse right along narrow ledge to tree via 2 bolts, then up easy slab to double bolt belay, a 20m easy pitch. The start to Supernaut is 10m higher to the right, and is best to belay on the ground opposite the climb, and not on the double bolt belay (this is a rap station for descent off Supernaut).
Gear: 16 draws required, cams 1-4, double 60m ropes. 20 draws if doing Supernaut.