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Guide
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<guide>  <text class="heading1">Central Buttress
  </text><image
        new="false" number="null." src="CentralButtressPrint.jpg"
        width="700">null</image>
  <text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">This is the most extensive buttress on the Pipes with the added bonus of great access as the Organ Pipes Track passes relatively close to its base. The RH end of Central Buttress is broken and scrubby: descriptions start at Pooch Gully, a vegetated trough that separates Flange and Central Buttress. The LH end of the Central Buttress where the rock is steeper and cleaner provides routes of greater quality. 
  </text>
  <text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">To get there, continue on the Organ Pipes Track past the access track to Flange Buttress for roughly another 50m, passing a large horizontal flat boulder before cutting up R. (GPS: 0519827 5250667 GDA94) Again, this is usually marked by a small cairn. Access to the base of routes between Mephistopheles (M) and Linda is via the Battle Cruiser (BC) ledge, a ramp that rises L of M and terminates at the Linda chimney.</text><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">Descent: Complex. For climbs in the upper cliffs either walk off or abseil down (tape). For climbs on the RH side, there is a rap station on Acid Test for climbs in that area, or tape abseils for most others. For most climbs that start from the Battle Cruiser ledge, including Faust, abseil from the rap station found at the top of BC down the Linda corner to the chock-stone ledge (50m). A further abseil down the Linda chimney is required to regain the LH end of BC ledge (25m). Routes are described from R to L. </text><text
        class="heading3" new="false"
        number="null.">Arthur's Circus</text>text><image new="false"
 <text class       number="textnull." src="Arthur's CircusPrint.jpg"
        width="400">null</image>
  <text class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">First of all, however, high on the L at the top of Pooch Gully, is a large reddish wall with a prominent inverted L-shaped crack. This marks the Line Tamer to Clowning Around routes which are probably best located from the top by following the cliff line round to just south of the Bert's Fear top abseil (GPS: 0519713 5250690 ) and then abseiling in. Alternatively, scrub bash up  Pooch Gully... ouch. </text>
  
  <climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="50m" name="Line Tamer"
        stars="**">A sky-rocketing crack up a great natural line. Start as for Arthur's Circus at the base of the reddish wall, below the inverted L-shaped crack. (1) 50m. Climb the crack (18) for 10m to the square cut ledge where Arthur's Circus traverses L. Climb straight up to a small sloping ledge where the crack widens. Continue to a bulge and a 2m off-width section (crux) with a fist jam at its base. Either layback elegantly or shakily to the ledge above. Follow the crack to the top. P. &amp; K Robinson, Nov. 2004.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="54m" name="Arthur's Circus"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">A hard crack to start. Locate the base of the reddish wall immediately below the inverted L-shaped crack. Start at the extreme RH end of a large scrubby ledge, below the obvious jam-crack. (1) 14m. Up the crack to an obvious square-cut ledge, then traverse L for 3m to a stance below an off-width crack. (2) 40m. Climb the corner on the RH side of the off width to the detached flake. Squeeze into the chimney, move L to the crack, and continue to the top, going inside where necessary. L. Wood, C. Ditto Rathbone, Dec. 1976.
  </climb><textclimb>
  <climb
     new="true"/>   <climb extra="" grade="18" length="60m"         name="Circus Taz"
        stars="*">The first line L of Arthur's Circus. (1) 26m. Follow the chimney to the overhang (crux). Climb through this and follow the crack to a ledge on the L at the foot of a corner. (2) 22m. Follow the corner to a large bushy ledge. (3) 12m. Up awkward blocks to the top. P. Robinson, A. Beech, May 2004.
  </climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next climb is located below Arthurs Circus and is accessed by abseiling 34m down Circus Taz to a ledge.
</text><climb
        extra="" grade="18 " length="20m " name="Centre Stage "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="***">A hidden gem, a clean finger crack. The crack is on the wall to the L and finishes on the bushy ledge passed on the way down. Layback and finger jam to your heart's content, sustained and good fun. Exit by climbing pitch 3 of Circus Taz. &quot;A Phil Robinson classic which may even be enjoyed by the masses!&quot; quoth Kim. P.Robinson, K. Robinson April 2007</climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="60m" name="Clowning Around"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The hand crack 15m L of Arthur's Circus. (1) Climb the crack and off-width section to ledges and then move up the shallow corner and wall above, to belay on the R, adjacent to the gully. (2) Up the awkward overhang and then back L and up the face to the top. N. Deka, T. McKenny, Mar. 1988.</climb>
  <text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The start of the routes L of Arthurs Circus  are located from the base of the cliff. Kacktus Buttress is the first buttress L of Pooch Gully
  </text>
  <text
        class="text">Descent from most of these climbs is by abseil (tape anchors). Rap anchors for climbs in Acid Test area.
  </text>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Kacktus"
        stars="**">Follows the face of Kacktus Buttress. With the direct start this is a great pitch, steep, committing but with adequate protection. Start at the very base of the buttress 3m R of a detached pillar. Climb the thin crack then move L 2m at the obvious traverse line. Climb the face above direct (keeping to the R of the fused corners) to a ledge. Continue with difficulty past a small flake on the L, directly up a thin crack to easier but not trivial ground above. Tape abseil from top of buttress (40m). D. Fife, P. Cullen, Dec. 1987. Direct Start: T. McKenny, P. Robinson Feb. 2005.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="45m" name="Rooster"
        stars="*">Takes the chimney line on the LH side of Kacktus Buttress and marked by a dark roof a few metres up. Start under the roof, after scrambling up into a cave. Climb up through several bulges to a notch at 36m. Step L and continue up the groove and arête past the small hakea. Tape abseil (48m). P. Robinson, C. Rathbone, Jan. 1981.Direct finish: T. McKenny, C. Walch, Mar. 2005.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="22" length="50m" name="Pugnacious" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">An exquisite single pitch route that takes a line up the steep face immediately L of Rooster. Break L out of Rooster from a block at the bottom of the Rooster chimney, and follow the curving line of thin lay-aways and underclings up the face. Abseil as for Rooster. A. Herington, S. Scott, Pete Steane, Feb. 1990.</climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="14" length="130m" name="Roast Chicken"
        stars="*">A direct start to Chicken Run. Start at the first crack line L of Rooster. (1) 20m. Climb up past two small chock stones to a ledge on the L. (2) 40m. Climb a minor overhang and continue until it joins the foot of pitch 3 of Chicken Run. Climb this and belay. (3) and (4) 70m. As for Chicken Run. P. Robinson, R. Mansfield, Dec. 1980.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="120m" name="Chicken Run"
        stars="">A major botanical excursion. Start L of Roast Chicken, in a chimney with a huge chock stone at 26m. (1) 26m. Up awkwardly past the bushes to belay on the huge chock stone. (2) 21m. Traverse R across a ledge and continue up to the base of an obvious corner. (3) 15m. Up the crack to belay on a large ledge. (4) and (5) 60m. Scrubby walls and cracks lead to the top. M. Tillema, P. McHugh, 1970.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="118m" name="Transfusion"
        stars="">Shares the same first pitch as Chicken Run. (1) 26m. Climb and scrub-bash past the bushes to belay on the huge chock stone. (2) 30m. Follow the chimney to belay in a cave under two chock stones. (3) 27m. Thread a way up between the chock stones until the chimney fades out. Climb the twin cracks by following the LH line for 6m before stepping R into the other. (4) 36m. Climb a vee-chimney after entering from the R. Cross a ledge trending R and climb a chimney until able to exit on the L. T. Costigan, A. Keller, Mar. 1968.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="120m" name="Acid Test" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">Located 3m R of Butt Funkey. (1) 30m 18. Climb up the wall to a small hakea tree, then from the block behind the tree climb the steep crack to belay. (2) 40m 19. Traverse R onto the buttress and follow the weakness directly up the middle of the buttress (well protected) to a U-bolt belay. (3) 40m 20. Up the crack on the R to the buttress above. Follow a thin line up the buttress until one can step L around the arête to a 6m long crack. At the top of this move back R and climb the excellent face above to a large ledge. (4) 5m. Up the wall above to a rap station. G. Phillips, D. Fife, Apr. 1996.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="18" length="42m" name="High Flyers" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Starts high up on the buttress between Acid Test and Butt Funkey. Climb 30m up pitch 1 of Butt Funkey and the entire second pitch of Acid Test to start. All up including High Flier, this gives four reasonable pitches (112m total). (1) 33m 16. Follow the line directly above two abseil bolts at the top of pitch two of Acid Test. Pleasant climbing with an excellent and steep hand crack at the top. (2) 9m 18. The LH side of the headwall following thin cracks to rap station. Abseil off as for Acid Test. P. Robinson, T. McKenny, Apr. 2005.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="95m" name="Butt Funkey" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">A sustained and energy sapping second pitch that offers excellent climbing. (1) 45m. 18. Climb the obvious fist crack equidistant between Transfusion and Third Bird, below and slightly L of the prominent arête. Continue up through some scrub for 15m to belay on a ledge L of the base of the arête. (2) 50m 20. Up the face just L of the arête for 15m (crux). Step around the arête to a small ledge and then proceed up the crack above. Stay just R of the arête, passing the roof on your L, and climb to the top. Abseil back down the line. (1) P. Cullen, D. Bowman, M. Burton, Feb. 1982. (2) D. Fife, Pete Steane,  Dec. 1990. (Pitch 1 had the distinction of  originally being called what is probably up there among the worst names for a climb ever...I'm No Ordinary Top Bunk Cock Pounder Because Jesus Loves Me).
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="100m" name="Banana Republic"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Advanced route finding just R of Third Bird; don't forget your compass. (1) Climb the hand cracks on the wall R of Third Bird, with some interesting moves through the niche above, to a belay on a scrubby ledge. (2) Move L and climb the shallow corners and flakes just R of Third Bird, to belay on the ledge below the overhang. (3) Move back R and continue up the wide cracks above to the top, taking care not to stray onto Third Bird. Abseil back down Third Bird (tape sling anchors) or traverse L and down the scrubby corner/gully to the BC rap anchors. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, 1988.</climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="84m" name="Third Bird" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="***">A reputation for quality and difficulty that is well deserved.  Follow the conspicuous crack line up the middle of face just R of Mephistopheles that continues through the roof. Start from the in-situ belay bench (1) 48m (16). Climb the RH side of the subsidiary pillar and up the hand crack above to belay on a large ledge 8m below roof. (2) 36m (18). Climb the crack through the roof to the ledge. Negotiate the thin crack and bulge above and continue up on excellent rock to a belay. Abseil back down route (tape sling anchor  to top of Pitch 1, rap station from there to bottom (to R, 48m) or traverse L and down scrubby corner/gully to the BC rap anchors (a bit dificult to find). I. Lewis, L. Closs, Aug. 1973.
&quot;Two crows skimmed by the crag lower down. 'Hey Lew - two black birds.' He looked out at them and nodded. 'Three black birds is bad luck isn't it?' I called down. He shrugged. Seconds later a third crow sailed effortlessly past us. 'Hey Lew!' He looked up. I pointed out at the gliding bird. 'Third bird!' &quot;</climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="107m" name="Mephistopheles"
        stars="">Bring your flame thrower or chain saw and don't be surprised to meet Tarzan swinging through the trees... a bit vegetated. The only useful purpose of this route is to flag the start of the Battle Cruiser ledge. Follows the obvious scrub-laden chute 8m L of Third bird. (1) 21m. Climb the chute to a ledge. (2) 21m. Continue up the line to a belay where the chimney eases to a cleft with a sloping back. (3) 25m. Climb the cleft and chimney to a large ledge. (4) 40m. Climb the chimney on the L for 8m, negotiate the overhang and continue up the face via a crack to the top. J. Moore, R. Williams, April 1967. 
  </climb>
  <text
        class="text">Routes between Youth With a Mission and Hyperspace are all accessed from the Battle Cruiser ledge that starts at Mephistopheles and continues L until one is overlooking the Linda chimney.
  </text>
  <text
        class="text">Descent: Rap anchors above Battle Cruiser/Linda (50m + 25m to Battle Cruiser ledge)
  </text>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="70m" name="Youth With a Mission"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">A steep and strenuous start leads to a curious crack line. Just L of Mephistopheles and 2m R of Spartan Ethics is a crack line up the wall. (1) 27m 20. Wade through scrub for 3m to the base of the wall and hand crack. Up the crack which thins (crux). Step R to a flake when the crack falters and climb up this and over the top. Continue up the wall above to a spacious belay ledge. (2) 35m 17. Mantle above the belay to gain the base of the curious crack line. Climb past a wobbly wafer and follow the line through a small roof to a ledge. Continue up the crack for another 3m before hand traversing R into Mephistopheles. Climb this for 3m and belay. (3) 8m. From the end of the hand traverse, continue traversing R around the arête and down slightly to the first belay of Third Bird. Rap station 48m. (1) P. Steane, Mar. 1996. (2) P. Cullen, D. Bowen, M. Burton, Feb. 1982.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="96m" name="Spartan Ethics"
        stars="**">Sustained and consistent. An inverted small L-shaped roof/flake marks the start of this route. (1) 30m. Climb a shallow corner to the small roof at 5m, which is turned on its L. Ascend a series of walls to a ledge. (2) 36m. Up a thin crack to a small dead bush, step R and jam the crack to the top, belaying near the Faust corner. (3) 30m. Continue up the line of shallow corners R of Faust to a small ledge. Climb the L hand crack over a bulge and continue to the top. Rap from Battle Cruiser (1) S. Parsons, D. Bowman, Dec. 1979. (2) D. Bowman, R. Wells, Feb. 1978. (3) N. Deka, D. Stephenson, Apr. 1988.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="16" length="85m" name="Faust" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">An insignificant start leads to some fabulous climbing. Follows the LH facing chimney corner in the middle of Central Buttress. (1) 45m. From the Battle Cruiser ledge, start up a LH facing chimney/corner and climb past a needle bush at 25m. Follow the line over an overhang  to a belay ledge. (2) 40m. Climb the awkward short crack above then up the classy corner to belay. Traverse L and down a groove for 10m to reach the rap station at top of Battle Cruiser. J. Moore, R. Williams, Mar. 1967. 
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="23" length="60m" name="Bumps and Angles"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">Are you feeling bold? This route follows the thin line up the face between Faust and Twice. Either step out L of the corner chimney of Faust (approx. 30m up pitch 1) and up the line or climb the line directly through both the overlaps. Small wires constitute protection and it is unknown whether the route continues straight up or veers R back into Faust. Rap anchors as for BC.  P. Robbins, 1990.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="30m" name="Thrice" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Thoughtful climbing up the temporary flake system between Faust and Once, really an alternative start to Faust. Climb carefully past the loose blocks at the bottom and continue up to a short corner. Ascend this and the short wall above, stepping R to belay in Faust. G. Cooper, Pete Steane, 1987.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="33m" name="Once"
        stars="*">Requires strong fingers and lots of gym work. (1) 33m. Start 2m R of Twice and climb the thin crack to a sloping ledge below the roof. Layback and finger jam straight through it via RH line (crux) to belay as for Battle Cruiser. (2) Abseil off (tape anchor) or finish up Twice or Battle Cruiser. M. Law, K. Carrigan, 1978.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="18" length="90m" name="Twice"
        stars="*">Companion line to Battle Cruiser. Start at the black streaked corner 6m L of Faust. (1) 34m. Climb up until 2m below the roof. Step R to the sloping ledge and crossing Once, continue up and R, belaying in Faust. (2) 10m. Traverse L to a belay at a ledge at the base of the big corner. It is possible to combine (1) and (2) and climb directly to this belay. (3) 46m. Move straight up the corner through the overhangs to Battle Cruiser rap station. I. Lewis, L. Closs, Sept. 1973.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="19" length="74m" name="Battle Cruiser"
        stars="***">Both pitches are magnificent. Shares the same start as Twice. (1) 28m 19. Climb the black streaked corner to the roof, continue through it via the LH line (crux) and up the thin crack to ledge belay L of the base of the Twice corner. (2) 46m 18. Move R and follow the corner of Twice for 6m to where a steep diagonal flake system leads out L towards the arête. Layaway and bridge the airy flake system until it eases. Continue up R of the arête to reach U-bolt rap station. Rap down to huge Linda chock stone (50m) Another rap station accesses the LH end of Battle Cruiser Ledge (25m). M. Law, D. Bowman, 1978.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="19" length="74m" name="Space Cowboy"
        stars="***">A face climb that is arguably better than sex. An alternative 2nd pitch to Starship Trooper. (1) 28m. Climb the first pitch of Starship Trooper. (2) 46m. Climb directly above the belay into a small L facing corner on the RH side of the arête. Layback up the flake above to a spectacular rest below a small overhang. Step R and climb straight up a short wall (crux) to join Battle Cruiser at the diagonal trending flake. Continue up the rest of Battle Cruiser to the rap station. D. Stephenson, J. Otlowski, Mar. 1989.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="22" length="74m" name="Starship Trooper"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="**">A thoughtful and subtle route up the arête L of Battle Cruiser provides an excellent first pitch to Space Cowboy. (1) 28m 20. Climb onto a small ledge 4m L of Battle Cruiser. Step L and follow the thin groove line just R of the arête to share the same belay as Battle Cruiser. Small wire and cam placements. (2) 46m 22. Step around the LH side of the arête and follow the thin cracks to a ledge near the arête. Continue up and abseil as for Battle Cruiser. K. Carrigan, M. Law, 1978.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="35m" name="Hyperspace"
        stars="*">A well protected quality alternative to the first pitch of Starship Trooper, taking the steep RH wall of the Linda chimney. Step around the arête into the chimney. Climb up and into the crack on the R wall to an overhang, which is passed on the L. Move back R and continue up to belay as for Starship Trooper. N. Deka, D. Bruce, &amp; D. Batten, Mar. 1988.
  </climb>
  <text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">A route (Tuberculosis 140m 14 M1) was described in an earlier edition as starting next to Linda but route details are less than certain, to put it mildly. G. Batten, M. Tillema, R. Mansfield, Apr. 1970.</text>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="15" length="130m" name="Linda" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">The original finish is recommended. Start at the obvious gully-line on the R of the south face of Central Buttress, which contains a huge chock stone at 30m. (1) 36m. Straight up the wall to belay atop the large chock stone. (2) 30m. Up the chimney and take the R hand crack to belay at the base of a huge corner. (3) 30m. (a) Original finish 15. Climb the R wall for 5m then step R. Continue up to a small ledge, then straight up for 6m (crux). Step R onto the arête and belay 5m higher, around the corner. (b) Linda Direct 18. Follow the chimney to the L of the huge corner which becomes off width and poorly protected. (c) Linda Chimney 15. Climb the R wall for 5m, then step R and climb up to a ledge. Continue by the chimney. (4) 35m. Easily to the top. Original route, J. Moore, J. Veasey, Jan. 1968. (2b) K. Prinz, L. Wood, A. Bowden, 1975.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="35m" name="Organic Man" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Takes the steep wall L of Linda. Start from the LH end of Battle Cruiser Ledge overlooking Linda. Climb the Linda chimney for one pitch (up past the lower rap station) to a belay on the highest large ledge on the L wall. (1) 15m Climb straight up the face R of the arête until it is possible to step around to a ledge on the L side of the arête and belay as for Improbability Drive. (2) 20m. Step back around the arête and continue up the face R of the arête until forced to move L again into Improbability Drive. To descend, probably best to cross the notch to the main cliff and head R across then down to the rap station on Battle Cruiser. E. Peacock, G. Cooper, Nov. 1982.</climb>
  <climb
        extra="↓" grade="20" length="45m" name="Improbability Drive"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="***">A superb climb up the steep south facing buttress L of Linda. Start as for Organic Man. (1) 15m. Make an improbable step around to the L side of the arête and climb straight up the thin flake to belay on a small ledge. This pitch can be started from the ledge 10m below. (2) 30m. Climb the hand crack left of the belay ledge and when it ends, step right and climb the crack system to the left of the arête  to the top. Descend as for Organic Man. S. Parsons, D. Fife, Phil Steane, 1982.
  </climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The following four climbs have had few ascents over the last 30 years so their descriptions and grades should be treated with caution. More information welcome!</text>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="125m" name="Diddles"
        stars="">The climb follows a deep and hidden chimney line on the north side of the Starseeker Buttress. Start as for Starseeker and D. F. Variation, at the lowest point of the buttress. (1), (2), and (3) As for D. F. Variation. (4) 10m. From the large ledge move to the obvious chimney in the corner. (5) 20m. Climb the deep hidden chimney to the L and belay in a cave. (6) 20m. Traverse R onto a chock stone in the R hand chimney. Follow this chimney to a platform, shared with Whose Route. (7) Continue to the top of the chimney. R. Mansfield, M. Tillema, 1970.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="13" length="93m" name="Starseeker"
        stars="*">A route of some variety following a fairly direct line up the buttress. Start on the northern side of the very foot of Central Buttress, at an 18m column, The Pillar of Crud. Sounds delightful! (1) 16m. Climb to a large ledge beneath the face of The Pillar of Crud, as for D. F. Variation. (2) 16m. (Crux) Up the face of The Pillar of Crud using holds carefully. (3) 18m. Follow the chimney, moving L at the top to a ledge. (4) 21m. Climb up to and sidle L of a blank wall then ascend with some difficulty to a short narrow chimney to join the platform on Whose Route. (5) 24m. Climb the obvious chimney (as for Whose Route) to the next platform and then directly to the top. Finish on the ridge leading to the summit. R. Williams, J. Whelan, Oct. 1966.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="10" length="107m" name="D. F. Variation"
        stars="*">This route crosses Diddles and Starseeker to join Whose Route at the foot of the 7m crack on the south side of the buttress. Start just R of the lowest point of Central Buttress. (1) 16m. Climb directly to a substantial ledge (also the first stance of Starseeker). (2) 20m. Move easily up diagonally to the R to belay at the foot of two narrow chimneys. (3) 10m. Ascend the L hand chimney/crack to a large ledge. (4) 16m. A semi-circular traverse crossing a deep cleft and Starseeker leads to a wide chimney on the south side of the buttress. (5) 10m. Climb the chimney to the prominent chock stones and traverse L to the 7m crack of Whose Route (pitch 3). 6) 37m. Continue as for Whose Route. M. Douglas, J. Fairhall, May 1962.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="9" length="100m" name="Whose Route" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">Located on the south side of Central Buttress this is one of the oldest routes on the Pipes. Start on the L of the lowest point of the buttress. (1) 40m. Negotiate a series of short steps leading to a broad scrubby ledge. (2) 23m. Climb a recess in a water-scarred wall and then follow an obvious gully, which is often wet and slippery. (3) 7m. Climb the steep crack past an old peg of unknown origin. (4) 10m. Continue via the obvious chimney to a platform near the top of the buttress. (5) 20m. Make an exposed step L and ascend 5m to a flake. Descend a metre and continue to traverse L and up to easy ground. J. Elliot, B. Higgins, 1960.
  </climb>
  <text
        class="heading2">The Arena
  </text><image new="false"
        number="null." src="TheArenaPrint.jpg"
        width="700">null</image>
  <text
        class="text">The Arena is the conspicuous amphitheatre at the top of cliff between Central Buttress and Great Tier. Access is usually down from the Mt Wellington summit and abseil in. The routes are described R to L.
  </text>
  <text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The first four climbs are located on separate buttresses just north (R) of the main Arena amphitheatre. The base of these climbs is reached by a 50m rap (look out for loose blocks on the way down) from the large ledge immediately north of Obelix (the same ledge where Caledonian finishes) that finishes down one side of a steep 25m buttress.</text>
  <text
        class="text">Descent: Usually an abseil (tape) back down the route if going back for more. Otherwise, please yourself! 
  </text>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="30m" name="The Spirit"
        stars="*">Both this route and Telopea are located on the steep buttress. Start 5m below and R of Telopea. Take the nose of the buttress, followed by the wall on the R. Follow the nose until one can move R up the wall via exciting layback moves to a ledge. Climb the wall and crack system just R of the nose to the top. P. &amp; K. Robinson, Jan. 2004.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="25m" name="Telopea"
        stars="**">A classic. Straight up the front of the buttress through two bulges with a steep headwall finish. P. &amp; K. Robinson, Jan. 2004.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="Cheers to Dave"
        new="false" number=""
        stars="***">Wild. A great position on a narrow arête, on the buttress L of Telopea. From the foot of Telopea, climb easily to the thin buttress on the L. The climb follows the nose all the way, finishing on an airy perch. This route is a tribute to the Tasmanian alpine guide Dave Gardner, who died whilst climbing on Mt. Tasman. K. Robinson, P. Robinson, Jan. 2004.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="12" length="25m" name="The Steps"
        stars="">This route is the best way to exit the three previous climbs. Starting from the top of the Telopea buttress follow walls and the ridge to an exposed step across which leads to the abseil ledge next to Obelix. Watch out for that loose block on the R just below the top. P. &amp; K. Robinson, Jan. 2004.
  </climb>
  <text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">The next routes are located immediatly to the south, in the main Arena amphitheatre. Access is again by abseil (tape).
  </text>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="45m" name="Caledonian" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="">On the RH side of the Arena amphitheatre are two obvious lines, R of Obelix. The far RH line has a short crack leading to a large grassy ledge followed by a curving arête. Climb the L trending arête keeping just R of it. Above the arête are two short walls. P. Robinson, T. McKenny, J. McKenny Feb 2002.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="19" length="45m" name="Caledonian Variant"
        stars="*">As for Caledonian climb to the ledge, keep R of the arête for a few metres, then traverse L of the arête to climb a steep, exposed finger crack. P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar. 2002.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="35m" name=" Legionary" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">The corner line  L of Caledonian and R of Obelix . A good route. Climb the line for five metres before moving L of the corner up the short clean crack behind a large flake. When it runs out, move R into the corner for a few metres before climbing the hand crack on the L wall to the overhang. Traverse out of the corner L into the steep, exposed line above. Climb up to the large platform and finish up the short wall as for Caledonian. P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar. 2002.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="40m" name="Obelix"
        stars="">The corner, 2nd line R of the Spear. Abseil in. Climb the chimney and overhang. Follow the corner all the way to the top. P. Robinson, T. McKenny, Apr. 2001. 
  </climb><text
        class="text" new="false"
        number="null.">L of Obelix and R of The Spear is a large chimney feature 3m wide. Climbing in it is a kind of 3D experience. Circus Maximus takes the L corner, Circus Minimus the R one.
</text><climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Circus Minimus         "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="">The RH chimney-corner line. Another jolly outing. Climb the crack in the slippery V-chimney on the R to a small roof and chimney L of this to the large ledge. Follow the clean crack system on the R to a bulge, hand jam around it and climb directly to the top. P. Robinson, C. Hewer, K. Robinson. 1 April 2007 (a suspicious date for a first ascent....)
</climb><climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="30m " name="Circus Maximus    "
        new="false" number=""
        stars="*">Classical. Up the LH side to the bulge (a head torch was used on the 1st ascent to find gear placements underneath it!) and follow the blank corner (crux), which becomes a finger and thin hand- sized crack. Follow the chimney, which higher up becomes awkward and a little run out to reach a large ledge. Take L line and avoid weighting the blocks at the top by careful chimneying. P. Robinson, K. Robinson. 26 March 2007
</climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="21" length="30m" name="The Spear" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="**">An exciting climb on the prominent hanging pillar R of Centurion. The gear is not the best. Bridge the off width corner 5m R of Centurion for 8m to a small roof. Traverse R under this onto the face of the column. Climb the finger crack past a problematic niche. Surmount the large flake above and continue more easily to the top. D. Stephenson, N. Deka, Dec. 1989.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="18" length="30m" name="Centurion" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">The prominent crack in the centre of the buttress. A thin crack on the R can be used to avoid the overhanging off width crack at the start. Climb the hand crack to the top. D. Fife, P. Mackenzie, Feb. 1983. 
  </climb>
  
  <climb
        extra="" grade="17" length="30m" name="Catacomb" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Chimney/crack line L of Centurion. Climb the open corner and continue into the tight chimney. Exit out L onto the wall when the chimney becomes a squeeze and follow the steep crack to the top. T. McKenny, D. Gardner, May 2001
  </climb><climb
        extra="" grade="21M0" length="35m" name="Gladiator" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">A distinctive line on the L side of The Arena, broken by two good ledges. Start on a broad sloping ledge at the base of an open corner L of Catacomb. (1) Climb the corner to the first ledge. An awkward crack leads to the second ledge. A finger/hand crack (crux and aid point, originally a peg) leads to the top. N. Deka, T. McKenny, Apr. 1990.</climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="16" length="35m" name="The Den"
        stars="">The line R of Asterix on south side of the Arena. Watch out for loose rock. Follow the cracks past myrtle tree and sloping pineapple grass ledge, with a crux near top. P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar. 2002.
  </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="15" length="27m" name="Asterix" new="false"
        number=""
        stars="*">Located on the south side of the Arena amphitheatre, facing north. Viewed from the top of Centurion it is the 2nd crack line from the L. R of Menhir and L of Gladiator (which faces east). Abseil off a large bollard to the sassafras bush down below. Follow the pleasant crack to the top. P. Robinson, B. Terry, Mar. 2001. </climb>
  <climb
        extra="" grade="20" length="40m" name="Menhir" new="false"
        number="" stars="*">The wide crack system to the R of the large pillar on the south side of the Arena. Climb the chimney and the off-width crux (sounds great doesn't it). Nice climbing follows to the top. P. Robinson, A. Wilson, Mar. 2001. </climb>
  
</guide>